If you do it in your garage, it's "3D printing". If it's used to build a car, it's "additive manufacturing"? Where's line between these two terms? Let's see if we can't find it.

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Is the SainSmart Genmitsu 3018-PROVer an excellent CNC router for the budget-minded maker? Read on as we review the specs to find out.

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<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link  ">
                                            <p>A fully 3D-printable rotating stand for filament spools, designed to be easily made without the need for fasteners such as screws, nuts, shafts, glue, etc. Every single component in this spool holder comes right from your 3D printer&apos;s filament. The spool holder&apos;s spindle is shaped to fit the vast majority of commonly used filament spools with shaft holes ranging from 16 mm to 62 mm in diameter. It is also compatible with spool-less filament coils. The spindle which holds the spool&apos;s weight rotates on its own roller wheels, which makes it turn effortlessly. The spool holder included an arm for filament guide tubes of both common sizes 1.75 mm and 3.0 mm. The arm also contains a pocket for inserting a piece of sponge which acts a a filament filter - thus keeping the filament clean and lubricated. FEATURES - Easy to 3D print - Needs no glue or fasteners - All parts can be 3D-printed - Fits almost any filament spool size - Has built-in filament filter! - Can also hold spool-less filament coils</p>
<p><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/X6ArZeWYSZE" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
										</div>
										
                                    								</body></html>

Universal stand-alone filament spool holder (Fully 3D-printable)

 A fully 3D-printable rotating stand for filament spools, designed to be easily made without the need for fasteners such as screws, nuts, shafts, glue, etc. Every single component in this spool holder comes right from your 3D printer's filament. The spool holder's spindle is shaped to fit the vast majority of commonly used filament spools with shaft holes ranging from 16 mm to 62 mm in diameter. It is also compatible with spool-less filament coils. The spindle which holds the spool's weight rotates on its own roller wheels, which makes it turn effortlessly. The spool holder included an arm for filament guide tubes of both common sizes 1.75 mm and 3.0 mm. The arm also contains a pocket for inserting a piece of sponge which acts a a filament filter - thus keeping the filament clean and lubricated. FEATURES - Easy to 3D print - Needs no glue or fasteners - All parts can be 3D-printed - Fits almost any filament spool size - Has built-in filament filter! - Can also hold spool-less filament coils 

<p>This is version 2 of the power cord clip/holder. This is kind of a non-invasive style solution. This one has a longer width and taller height. This gives more stability for holding the cord.. This is partly due to the fact that the power connector to the UM2 isn&apos;t all that secure. This version of the clip is to secure the power cord better than just hanging off the UM2. -I suggest when connecting the clip be sure to power off the UM2 first. <br>
-Lay the UM2 on its side<br>
-Since this is a taller and wider clip, as you clip it onto the UM2 move the stepper cords out of the way. It should sit between the end and the contact switch.<br>
-Clip the power cord into the clip. -Then attach the clip under the UM2 (as shown in the photos). -Then you can slide the clip to the position you want it. (the connections should be snug). -Insure that the power connector is straight into the UM2 power port. -Then you can power up the UM2.  This helps me, I hope it helps you all. I&apos;m working on another version now.<br>
This item is printed in PLA (material doesn&apos;t matter)The speed I used was between .15 and .2  (really doesn&apos;t matter. depends if you wish to see the &apos;UM2&apos; on the front of the clip).I used speed of 45 ( you can use higher. I was experimenting)No support needed.I did not use a brim (I just used hairspray)I used nozzle of .6 (.4 is probably better to get the &apos;UM2&apos; clearer).I used a fill density of 55. ( you can use less or more. I wanted to make sure it was just a little flexible.</p>


UM2 Power Cord Holder version 2

This is version 2 of the power cord clip/holder. This is kind of a non-invasive style solution. This one has a longer width and taller height. This gives more stability for holding the cord.. This is partly due to the fact that the power connector to the UM2 isn't all that secure. This version of the clip is to secure the power cord better than just hanging off the UM2. -I suggest when connecting the clip be sure to power off the UM2 first. 
-Lay the UM2 on its side
-Since this is a taller and wider clip, as you clip it onto the UM2 move the stepper cords out of the way. It should sit between the end and the contact switch.
-Clip the power cord into the clip. -Then attach the clip under the UM2 (as shown in the photos). -Then you can slide the clip to the position you want it. (the connections should be snug). -Insure that the power connector is straight into the UM2 power port. -Then you can power up the UM2.  This helps me, I hope it helps you all. I'm working on another version now.
This item is printed in PLA (material doesn't matter)The speed I used was between .15 and .2  (really doesn't matter. depends if you wish to see the 'UM2' on the front of the clip).I used speed of 45 ( you can use higher. I was experimenting)No support needed.I did not use a brim (I just used hairspray)I used nozzle of .6 (.4 is probably better to get the 'UM2' clearer).I used a fill density of 55. ( you can use less or more. I wanted to make sure it was just a little flexible.


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Logo de serrure du coffre 106 phase 2</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

Logo Coffre peugeot 106 phase 2

<p>Hello and welcome to my design for the Eustathios Spider V2.5 3D printer. This printer is an updated version of the original Eustathios Spider, Eustathios Spider 2.0, and the addition of Community Modifications which have improved the design. The community added so many great improvements to this design, and I wanted to share an updated design that integrates all these wonderful improvements to the design, form, and function of this printer. I also wanted to update the design with newer more modern controls and components which have become available since the initial design.</p>

<p>This design stands on the shoulders of many great designers of Crossrod Gantry Printers that came before it. Most notable of these is the design of the original Eustathios by Jason Smith. This family of printers had a very devoted community in the G+ heydays, but now that Google+ has died the Community around the HercuLien printer and the Eustathios printer have moved to: <a href="https://forum.makerforums.info/c/herculien" rel="external">https://forum.makerforums.info/c/herculien</a> . This is thanks in great part to Michael K Johnson, who worked his magic to retain the years of great community interaction on G+ and ported it into the Discourse community over on Makerforums. If you are looking for support or community interaction on these printers moving forward, this is the place to go.</p>

<p>This family of printers is all based on the X/Y gantry mechanics of the Ultimaker. Ultimaker style mechanics utilizes a light hot-end/carriage which gets constrained by one X and one Y cross rod. Connected to these crossrods are rod ends which ride on side shafts that act both for power transmission of one axis (rotation) and as the linear guide for travel of the other axis (translation).</p>

<p>Originally a gentleman who goes by the name Sublime (<a href="https://github.com/Intrinsically-Sublime/Tantillus/" rel="external">https://github.com/Intrinsically-Sublime/Tantillus/</a>) created a small format variant of the Ultimaker mechanics which he called the Tantillus. Then GoopyPlastic (aka Brad Hill) created an extrusion version of the Tantillus called the Tslot Tantillus (<a href="https://github.com/goopyplastic/tslot-tantillus" rel="external">https://github.com/goopyplastic/tslot-tantillus</a>). Following in Brad&#x2019;s footsteps Tim Rastall (<a href="https://plus.google.com/u/0/+TimRastall/posts" rel="external">https://plus.google.com/u/0/+TimRastall/posts</a>) created the very popular Ingentis printer (<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ingentis-a-tantillus-variant" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ingentis-a-tantillus-variant</a>) which is a larger version of Tantilus using thicker linear guide components, spectra drive system, and a much larger build envelope. The next printer in this design family was by Jason Smith (<a href="https://plus.google.com/u/0/103009815307828556107/posts" rel="external">https://plus.google.com/u/0/103009815307828556107/posts</a>) call the Eustathios (<a href="https://github.com/jasonsmit4/Eustathios" rel="external">https://github.com/jasonsmit4/Eustathios</a>). This is the printer that got me excited about this family of printers. Jason made several design choices like GT2 belts which I felt were great upgrades to the platform. I lucked out because his release was timed perfectly with a promotion Misumi was running where your first order from them up to $150 in value was free. I wanted to be able to modify Jason&#x2019;s files slightly, but he had modeled everything in Sketchup. My limited experience was with Solidworks (self taught) so rather than learn new software I redrew Jason&#x2019;s Eustathios design files from scratch. And so my Eustathios Spider V1 variant , named due to the color scheme, was born (<a href="https://github.com/eclsnowman/Lien3D_Eustathios_Spider" rel="external">https://github.com/eclsnowman/Lien3D_Eustathios_Spider</a>). I built the Eustathios and fell in love with the smooth operation, clean prints, and overall reliability. So after operating the Eustathios for several months I converted my existing large CoreXY Printer (<a href="https://github.com/eclsnowman/Lien3D_CoreXY" rel="external">https://github.com/eclsnowman/Lien3D_CoreXY</a> ) into a X/Y gantry printer with larger cross rods and dual extrusion. The name of this printer is HercuLien (<a href="https://github.com/eclsnowman/HercuLien" rel="external">https://github.com/eclsnowman/HercuLien</a>). Prior to this latest revision (V2.5) there was the Eustathios Spider V2 which can be found here: <a href="https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2" rel="external">https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2</a></p>

<p>I apologize for the long history lesson, but as you can see there is a lot of progress and talented people involved in these projects. I want to make sure credit is properly attributed to the many great makers who have come before me. The caliber of people involved and all the creativity in the platform is what keeps me so motivated. I would like to specifically mention some of the wonderful community members who added to this project over the years which have inspired or directly contributed to the Eustathios project.</p>

<p>Specifically:</p>

<p>1.) Walter Hsiao (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/walter/about" rel="external">https://www.thingiverse.com/walter/about</a>) for his elegant designs on the bed leveling corners, passthrough corner 6900-2RS bearing blocks, and Z Axis Bed Supports which have been integrated into the current design. In addition to these parts Walter has many additional designs for alternative components which can be used on the Eustathios like his Space Invaders Center Carriage, his Flying Extruder, and tons more. He is a prolific designer and his ability to simplify a design to its core and make it look elegant in the process inspires me and pushes me in my own designs.</p>

<p>2.) Next, I would like to thank Zane Baird (<a href="https://www.linkedin.com/in/zane-baird-59096923" rel="external">https://www.linkedin.com/in/zane-baird-59096923</a>). Over the years on Google Plus, at MRRF, and via Hangouts I am lucky to call Zane a friend. He made numerous design improvements which he implemented on his HercuLien printer. Like Water, Zane has a design style and elegance which is beyond my own ability. His designs for the Center Carriage and Side Carriages strike an balance between style and function which makes this V2.5 of the printer better than ever. Not only do these components work better and improve servicability, but they increase the printable area from previous design. Zanes input and passion on the project pushed me to do better in my own designs. I thank him for his friendship, inspiration and knowledge.</p>

<p>There are of course many more people to thank through this process: Martin Bond&#xE9;us of Bondtech (who is a true friend with a brilliant mind), Roy Cortes from Panucatt (his boards and components are second to none), everyone from the G+ and Makerforums.info communities (Joe Spanier and Ray Kholodovsky I am looking at you), SeeMeCNC and John Olafson for years of inspiration and community through MRRF, and countless others. I can&apos;t name everyone, but you know who you are. Thank you, without you my journey of 3D Printing would not have been so fulfilling and so enjoyable.</p>

<p>Eustathios Spider V2.5 Overview:</p>

<p>Max Travel Limits (X = 312mm / Y = 314mm / Z = 306mm)<br>
Designed Print Area (300mm x 300mm x 300mm)<br>
32bit Controller = SKR V1.4 running Marlin 2<br>
TMC2209 Drivers (Qty:5) Independant Z for Marlin Auto Tram<br>
24V Power with 500W Mains Powered Bed controled via SSR Relay<br>
Endstops: X&amp;Y = switches or TMC Endstopless homing Z = single or dual switches, or BLTouch/3DTouch homing<br>
Leveling: Manual with endstops or autolevel w/ BLTouch/3DTouch<br>
Documentation:</p>

<p>BOM = <a href="https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/raw/master/BOM/ES25%20BOM.xlsx" rel="external">https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/raw/master/BOM/ES25%20BOM.xlsx</a></p>

<p>Printable STL Parts = <a href="https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/3D%20Models/STL" rel="external">https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/3D%20Models/STL</a></p>

<p>Solidworks Files = <a href="https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/3D%20Models/Solidworks" rel="external">https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/3D%20Models/Solidworks</a></p>

<p>Other 3D model formats in zip due to github file size limit) = <a href="https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/3D%20Models" rel="external">https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/3D%20Models</a></p>

<p>3D renders: <a href="https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/Images" rel="external">https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/Images</a></p>

<p>Change Log:</p>

<p>1.) BOM and Drawings updated 07-14-20 due to correct mistakes noticed by someone building the printer (John Phan)</p>

<p>2.) Updated STL&apos;s 07-15-20 with correct orientation, diaphragms for printing without supports, and cleanup. Also added full nested plate with all required parts. Nested parts are likely too big for a single print, but show parts and quantities as an example.</p>

<p>3.) Updated Fusion360 Model with Mates, Ridged Groups, Grounding of the Frame, Etc. This required editing the hierarchy and structure of the model in Fusion due to how it handles joints, components, groups, etc.</p>


Eustathios Spider V2.5

Hello and welcome to my design for the Eustathios Spider V2.5 3D printer. This printer is an updated version of the original Eustathios Spider, Eustathios Spider 2.0, and the addition of Community Modifications which have improved the design. The community added so many great improvements to this design, and I wanted to share an updated design that integrates all these wonderful improvements to the design, form, and function of this printer. I also wanted to update the design with newer more modern controls and components which have become available since the initial design.

This design stands on the shoulders of many great designers of Crossrod Gantry Printers that came before it. Most notable of these is the design of the original Eustathios by Jason Smith. This family of printers had a very devoted community in the G+ heydays, but now that Google+ has died the Community around the HercuLien printer and the Eustathios printer have moved to: https://forum.makerforums.info/c/herculien . This is thanks in great part to Michael K Johnson, who worked his magic to retain the years of great community interaction on G+ and ported it into the Discourse community over on Makerforums. If you are looking for support or community interaction on these printers moving forward, this is the place to go.

This family of printers is all based on the X/Y gantry mechanics of the Ultimaker. Ultimaker style mechanics utilizes a light hot-end/carriage which gets constrained by one X and one Y cross rod. Connected to these crossrods are rod ends which ride on side shafts that act both for power transmission of one axis (rotation) and as the linear guide for travel of the other axis (translation).

Originally a gentleman who goes by the name Sublime (https://github.com/Intrinsically-Sublime/Tantillus/) created a small format variant of the Ultimaker mechanics which he called the Tantillus. Then GoopyPlastic (aka Brad Hill) created an extrusion version of the Tantillus called the Tslot Tantillus (https://github.com/goopyplastic/tslot-tantillus). Following in Brad’s footsteps Tim Rastall (https://plus.google.com/u/0/+TimRastall/posts) created the very popular Ingentis printer (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ingentis-a-tantillus-variant) which is a larger version of Tantilus using thicker linear guide components, spectra drive system, and a much larger build envelope. The next printer in this design family was by Jason Smith (https://plus.google.com/u/0/103009815307828556107/posts) call the Eustathios (https://github.com/jasonsmit4/Eustathios). This is the printer that got me excited about this family of printers. Jason made several design choices like GT2 belts which I felt were great upgrades to the platform. I lucked out because his release was timed perfectly with a promotion Misumi was running where your first order from them up to $150 in value was free. I wanted to be able to modify Jason’s files slightly, but he had modeled everything in Sketchup. My limited experience was with Solidworks (self taught) so rather than learn new software I redrew Jason’s Eustathios design files from scratch. And so my Eustathios Spider V1 variant , named due to the color scheme, was born (https://github.com/eclsnowman/Lien3D_Eustathios_Spider). I built the Eustathios and fell in love with the smooth operation, clean prints, and overall reliability. So after operating the Eustathios for several months I converted my existing large CoreXY Printer (https://github.com/eclsnowman/Lien3D_CoreXY ) into a X/Y gantry printer with larger cross rods and dual extrusion. The name of this printer is HercuLien (https://github.com/eclsnowman/HercuLien). Prior to this latest revision (V2.5) there was the Eustathios Spider V2 which can be found here: https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2

I apologize for the long history lesson, but as you can see there is a lot of progress and talented people involved in these projects. I want to make sure credit is properly attributed to the many great makers who have come before me. The caliber of people involved and all the creativity in the platform is what keeps me so motivated. I would like to specifically mention some of the wonderful community members who added to this project over the years which have inspired or directly contributed to the Eustathios project.

Specifically:

1.) Walter Hsiao (https://www.thingiverse.com/walter/about) for his elegant designs on the bed leveling corners, passthrough corner 6900-2RS bearing blocks, and Z Axis Bed Supports which have been integrated into the current design. In addition to these parts Walter has many additional designs for alternative components which can be used on the Eustathios like his Space Invaders Center Carriage, his Flying Extruder, and tons more. He is a prolific designer and his ability to simplify a design to its core and make it look elegant in the process inspires me and pushes me in my own designs.

2.) Next, I would like to thank Zane Baird (https://www.linkedin.com/in/zane-baird-59096923). Over the years on Google Plus, at MRRF, and via Hangouts I am lucky to call Zane a friend. He made numerous design improvements which he implemented on his HercuLien printer. Like Water, Zane has a design style and elegance which is beyond my own ability. His designs for the Center Carriage and Side Carriages strike an balance between style and function which makes this V2.5 of the printer better than ever. Not only do these components work better and improve servicability, but they increase the printable area from previous design. Zanes input and passion on the project pushed me to do better in my own designs. I thank him for his friendship, inspiration and knowledge.

There are of course many more people to thank through this process: Martin Bondéus of Bondtech (who is a true friend with a brilliant mind), Roy Cortes from Panucatt (his boards and components are second to none), everyone from the G+ and Makerforums.info communities (Joe Spanier and Ray Kholodovsky I am looking at you), SeeMeCNC and John Olafson for years of inspiration and community through MRRF, and countless others. I can't name everyone, but you know who you are. Thank you, without you my journey of 3D Printing would not have been so fulfilling and so enjoyable.

Eustathios Spider V2.5 Overview:

Max Travel Limits (X = 312mm / Y = 314mm / Z = 306mm)
Designed Print Area (300mm x 300mm x 300mm)
32bit Controller = SKR V1.4 running Marlin 2
TMC2209 Drivers (Qty:5) Independant Z for Marlin Auto Tram
24V Power with 500W Mains Powered Bed controled via SSR Relay
Endstops: X&Y = switches or TMC Endstopless homing Z = single or dual switches, or BLTouch/3DTouch homing
Leveling: Manual with endstops or autolevel w/ BLTouch/3DTouch
Documentation:

BOM = https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/raw/master/BOM/ES25%20BOM.xlsx

Printable STL Parts = https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/3D%20Models/STL

Solidworks Files = https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/3D%20Models/Solidworks

Other 3D model formats in zip due to github file size limit) = https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/3D%20Models

3D renders: https://github.com/eclsnowman/Eustathios-Spider-V2.5/tree/master/Images

Change Log:

1.) BOM and Drawings updated 07-14-20 due to correct mistakes noticed by someone building the printer (John Phan)

2.) Updated STL's 07-15-20 with correct orientation, diaphragms for printing without supports, and cleanup. Also added full nested plate with all required parts. Nested parts are likely too big for a single print, but show parts and quantities as an example.

3.) Updated Fusion360 Model with Mates, Ridged Groups, Grounding of the Frame, Etc. This required editing the hierarchy and structure of the model in Fusion due to how it handles joints, components, groups, etc.


<p>This is part of the series of 30 exercises developed during the E3D+VET program. The aim of this Erasmus+ program is the immersion in 3D printing of VET centres (website: <a href="https://www.e3dplusvet.eu/" rel="external">https://www.e3dplusvet.eu/</a>).</p>

<p>This exercise is composed by 3D printed spherical models of the star (the Sun) and the eight planets (Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, this one with external rings around it; Uranus and Neptune) that compose de Solar system. All of them will have a ring retainer underneath to prevent the rolling away.</p>

<p>The Sun is printed in a 1:5 000 000 000 scale from its real dimension and the planets in a     1:1 000 000 000 one.</p>

<p>The Sun and the planets should be printed in the following colours to increase the differentiation between them (colours commented in brackets should be painted manually).</p>

<p>&#x2022; Sun &#x2013; Orange<br>
&#x2022; Mercury &#x2013; Grey<br>
&#x2022; Venus &#x2013; Brown<br>
&#x2022; Earth &#x2013; Blue (green land marks)<br>
&#x2022; Mars &#x2013; Red<br>
&#x2022; Jupiter &#x2013; Orange (white frames)<br>
&#x2022; Saturn &#x2013; Yellow (orange rings)<br>
&#x2022; Uranus &#x2013; Dark blue<br>
&#x2022; Neptune &#x2013; Purple<br>
&#x2022; Retainers - Black</p>

<p>Real diameter dimensions -&gt; Printed diameter dimensions -&gt; Reduction scale</p>

<p>&#x2022; Sun &#x2013; 1 391 016 km     -&gt;   278 mm    -&gt;  1:5 000 000 000<br>
&#x2022; Mercury &#x2013; 4 878 km     -&gt;  4.8 mm       -&gt;  1:1 000 000 000<br>
&#x2022; Venus &#x2013; 12 100 km       -&gt;  12.1 mm    -&gt;  1:1 000 000 000<br>
&#x2022; Earth &#x2013; 12 756 km        -&gt;  12.7 mm    -&gt;  1:1 000 000 000<br>
&#x2022; Mars &#x2013; 6 787 km           -&gt;  6.7 mm       -&gt;  1:1 000 000 000<br>
&#x2022; Jupiter &#x2013; 142 984 km   -&gt;  142.9 mm  -&gt;  1:1 000 000 000<br>
&#x2022; Saturn &#x2013; 120 536 km   -&gt;  120.5 mm  -&gt;  1:1 000 000 000<br>
&#x2022; Uranus &#x2013; 51 108 km    -&gt;  51.1 mm     -&gt;  1:1 000 000 000<br>
&#x2022; Neptune &#x2013; 49 538 km  -&gt;  49.5 mm    -&gt;  1:1 000 000 000</p>

<p>If other sizes are required, they can be recalculated with the following Solar System Escalator: <a href="http://www.exploratorium.edu/ronh/solar_system/" rel="external">http://www.exploratorium.edu/ronh/solar_system/</a></p>


Solar System

This is part of the series of 30 exercises developed during the E3D+VET program. The aim of this Erasmus+ program is the immersion in 3D printing of VET centres (website: https://www.e3dplusvet.eu/).

This exercise is composed by 3D printed spherical models of the star (the Sun) and the eight planets (Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Jupiter, Saturn, this one with external rings around it; Uranus and Neptune) that compose de Solar system. All of them will have a ring retainer underneath to prevent the rolling away.

The Sun is printed in a 1:5 000 000 000 scale from its real dimension and the planets in a     1:1 000 000 000 one.

The Sun and the planets should be printed in the following colours to increase the differentiation between them (colours commented in brackets should be painted manually).

• Sun – Orange
• Mercury – Grey
• Venus – Brown
• Earth – Blue (green land marks)
• Mars – Red
• Jupiter – Orange (white frames)
• Saturn – Yellow (orange rings)
• Uranus – Dark blue
• Neptune – Purple
• Retainers - Black

Real diameter dimensions -> Printed diameter dimensions -> Reduction scale

• Sun – 1 391 016 km     ->   278 mm    ->  1:5 000 000 000
• Mercury – 4 878 km     ->  4.8 mm       ->  1:1 000 000 000
• Venus – 12 100 km       ->  12.1 mm    ->  1:1 000 000 000
• Earth – 12 756 km        ->  12.7 mm    ->  1:1 000 000 000
• Mars – 6 787 km           ->  6.7 mm       ->  1:1 000 000 000
• Jupiter – 142 984 km   ->  142.9 mm  ->  1:1 000 000 000
• Saturn – 120 536 km   ->  120.5 mm  ->  1:1 000 000 000
• Uranus – 51 108 km    ->  51.1 mm     ->  1:1 000 000 000
• Neptune – 49 538 km  ->  49.5 mm    ->  1:1 000 000 000

If other sizes are required, they can be recalculated with the following Solar System Escalator: http://www.exploratorium.edu/ronh/solar_system/


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                                            <p>Similar to the guitar wall mount, however this model has cutouts designed in to reduce printing time without compromising strength. Mounts easily to drywalland stud walls with a 3 inch skrew.&#xA0;</p>
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Guitar wall mount 2

 Similar to the guitar wall mount, however this model has cutouts designed in to reduce printing time without compromising strength. Mounts easily to drywalland stud walls with a 3 inch skrew. 

<p>Hand wood planer that is designed to accept a 1-3/8&quot; blade or smaller. Angle of plane is 40 degrees to allow for medium to fine cuts. The blade lock accepts a M6 bolt to hold the blade in place.</p>


Hand Wood Planer

Hand wood planer that is designed to accept a 1-3/8" blade or smaller. Angle of plane is 40 degrees to allow for medium to fine cuts. The blade lock accepts a M6 bolt to hold the blade in place.


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                                            <p>Original art by Mike Lopez&#xA0;</p>
<p>Check out his other original pieces here (<a href="https://www.deviantart.com/mikelopez">https://www.deviantart.com/mikelopez</a>)</p>
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 The Panther King  Keychain

 Original art by Mike Lopez Check out his other original pieces here (https://www.deviantart.com/mikelopez) 

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                                            <p>Angeline is the Department Head of Antiquities for the Metropolitan Museum of Sanctuary City. Ever since Prohibition began, she has been determined to recover and preserve lost artifacts for her museum. Keeping them out of the wrong hands, and available for future generations to study and appreciate.</p>
<p>If you are intested in more of our sculpts, please visit our Patreon at <a href="https://www.patreon.com/GangfightGames">https://www.patreon.com/GangfightGames</a></p>
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Angeline - Elf Archaeologist

 Angeline is the Department Head of Antiquities for the Metropolitan Museum of Sanctuary City. Ever since Prohibition began, she has been determined to recover and preserve lost artifacts for her museum. Keeping them out of the wrong hands, and available for future generations to study and appreciate. If you are intested in more of our sculpts, please visit our Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/GangfightGames 

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                                            <p><span id="docs-internal-guid-b947ca62-e28e-c4c7-fc55-e38c04539310"><span style="font-size: 12px; font-family: Arial; vertical-align: baseline; white-space: pre-wrap; background-color: transparent;">Pirate3D Design Competition</span></span></p>
<p>Tower Part Sample.</p>
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Tower Part Sample

 Pirate3D Design Competition Tower Part Sample. 

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                                            <p>I found this wooden box at a local Michaels craft store for $4. I created drawers for it to store some of my smaller 3D prints. I designed the drawers in Tinkercad and the files or open source.<br>I printed at 0.4mm and 15% fill on my Davinci 1.0 printer.</p>
<p>I made a YouTube video of the project. Check it out.<br><a href="http://youtu.be/UKu2XLY71Jw" rel="nofollow">http://youtu.be/UKu2XLY71Jw</a></p>
<p><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UKu2XLY71Jw" width="560" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe></p>
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Plastic Drawer for Wooded Box

 I found this wooden box at a local Michaels craft store for $4. I created drawers for it to store some of my smaller 3D prints. I designed the drawers in Tinkercad and the files or open source.I printed at 0.4mm and 15% fill on my Davinci 1.0 printer. I made a YouTube video of the project. Check it out.http://youtu.be/UKu2XLY71Jw 

Open-end wrench. Metric size 36/32.

The wrench (or spanner in UK English) is a tool used to provide grip and mechanical advantage in applying torque to turn objects.

Please consider the material before you print it. It cannot be used in real with soft material. 

Wrench. Metric size 36/32

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                                            <p>A pendant inspired in organic forms such as a sunflower.</p>
<p>If you want this design in the same material shown in the photos you can purchase it&#xA0;<a href="https://www.shapeways.com/product/E2UCZX662/sunflower-pendant?optionId=42631148&amp;li=more-from-shop" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">here.</a></p>
<p>if you like our designs you can show us support on <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Idea10" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">facebook</a></p>
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