3D printing filament experts from NinjaTek premiered two new filaments with industrial grade properties: The rubber-like Cheetah and the sturdy Armadillo.

Flexible Cheetah, Sturdy Armadillo: New NinjaTek Filaments | All3DP

Previewing the new Prometheus System on Kickstarter, Thomas Sanladerer explains why dual-extrusion is the next frontier in 3D printing.

Why Dual Extrusion Matters: First Look at the Prometheus System | All3DP

How would you like to walk on a true work of sculpted art? Italian Designer Cristina Franceschini can make it happen with 3D printed shoes.

Walking on 3D Printed Works of Art | All3DP

Prototyping a product can be costly and slow, but using 3D prototyping, or rapid prototyping, you can iterate efficiently. Explore this method in the following guide.

What Is 3D Prototyping? – Simply Explained | All3DP

Descubre los mejores sitios web y buscadores de 2020 para descargar archivos STL, diseños 3D gratis y modelos 3D para imprimir en 3D.

Archivos STL y modelos 3D para imprimir: mejores sitios 2021 | All3DP

Take a VR tour of a display at the UK Government Art Collection, the result of a collaboration with the Cultural Heritage team at Sketchfab.

Take a Virtual Reality Tour with UK Government Art Collection | All3DP

Have you ever wanted to fly an RC plane? What if you could make it yourself? All you need is a little time and a 3D printer. Check out this curated collection of 3D printed RC plane models, and pick your best fit!

3D Printed RC Plane: 10 Great Curated 3D Models | All3DP

Make believe that you're Harry Potter with this 3D Printed Loom Launcher Wizard Wand on Kickstarter. All together now: "RUBBERBANDUS!"

3D Printed Loom Launcher Wand for the Wizard in All of Us | All3DP

3D printer fans: You know they're there, but you might not know why. In this quick, simple guide, we'll explain each kind of 3D printer fan and what it's used for in our beloved machines.

3D Printer Fan – Do I Really Need One? | All3DP

A CNC water jet machine slices into all kinds of tough materials with high velocity and pressure. Let's take a look at the intricacies of the process!

CNC Water Jet – All You Need to Know | All3DP

If you're looking to get SolidWorks but aren't sure if your computer can support it, read on to learn about SolidWorks' system requirements.

SolidWorks System Requirements at Glance | All3DP

Ya está aquí la impresora 3D de Creality con una cinta infinita, o casi. La campaña de Kickstarter está en marcha. Descubre todo lo que sabemos hasta ahora acerca de la 3DPrintMill (también conocida como CR-30).

Creality 3DPrintMill (CR-30): características y datos clave | All3DP

<p>For those that feel the need to get those close up shots while racing their OpenRC F1 car around the neighborhood. <br>
It&#xB4;s meant to be used together with the &quot;GoPro Seat Mount&quot; found here: <a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/openrc-f1-gopro-mount" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/openrc-f1-gopro-mount</a></p>

<p>BE CAREFUL AND DRIVE SLOW, ESPECIALLY WHEN TURNING OR YOUR GOPRO WILL SMASH INTO THE GROUND!</p>

<p>Short video: <iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/KFZyC3p2EY4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>

<p>Like my FaceBook page - <a href="https://www.facebook.com/Daniel-Nor%C3%A9e-576194949211855/" rel="external">https://www.facebook.com/Daniel-Nor%C3%A9e-576194949211855/</a><br>
Subscribe to my YouTube channel - <a href="https://www.youtube.com/user/DanielNoree2" rel="external">https://www.youtube.com/user/DanielNoree2</a></p>

<p>INSTAGRAM <a href="https://www.instagram.com/danielnoree/" rel="external">https://www.instagram.com/danielnoree/</a><br>
TWITTER <a href="https://twitter.com/DanielNoree" rel="external">https://twitter.com/DanielNoree</a><br>
GOOGLE+ <a href="https://plus.google.com/u/1/+DanielNoree" rel="external">https://plus.google.com/u/1/+DanielNoree</a><br>
FACEBOOK <a href="https://www.facebook.com/daniel.noree" rel="external">https://www.facebook.com/daniel.noree</a></p>

<p>GOOGLE+ OPENRC COMMUNITY <a href="https://plus.google.com/communities/112745535856143176146" rel="external">https://plus.google.com/communities/112745535856143176146</a><br>
FACEBOOK OPENRC GROUP <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/1111886228841596/" rel="external">https://www.facebook.com/groups/1111886228841596/</a></p>


OpenRC F1 GoPro Longneck Mount

For those that feel the need to get those close up shots while racing their OpenRC F1 car around the neighborhood. 
It´s meant to be used together with the "GoPro Seat Mount" found here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/openrc-f1-gopro-mount

BE CAREFUL AND DRIVE SLOW, ESPECIALLY WHEN TURNING OR YOUR GOPRO WILL SMASH INTO THE GROUND!

Short video: 

Like my FaceBook page - https://www.facebook.com/Daniel-Nor%C3%A9e-576194949211855/
Subscribe to my YouTube channel - https://www.youtube.com/user/DanielNoree2

INSTAGRAM https://www.instagram.com/danielnoree/
TWITTER https://twitter.com/DanielNoree
GOOGLE+ https://plus.google.com/u/1/+DanielNoree
FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/daniel.noree

GOOGLE+ OPENRC COMMUNITY https://plus.google.com/communities/112745535856143176146
FACEBOOK OPENRC GROUP https://www.facebook.com/groups/1111886228841596/


<p>I made this case to hold a Meade telescope eyepiece as a test to see how well the threads would work as well as a test of the X/Y calibration of my printer. &#xA0;It was designed using DesignSpark Mechanical (threads, fillets, and chamfers are easy!). &#xA0;My printed version fits a little tight, so I opened up the inner diameter by 1mm to make it easier to get the eyepiece in and out of the case. &#xA0;It will fit the eyepiece whether you have the eye guard extended or collapsed. &#xA0;It is intended for use with the lens caps in place.</p><p>I sliced in Cura and printed with Coex3D ABS on Son of MegaMax, my recently rebuilt printer, with a 0.4mm extruder nozzle and 0.32mm layers, 20% infill. &#xA0;No support, no brim, no raft.</p>


Meade 14mm UWA Telescope Eyepiece Case

I made this case to hold a Meade telescope eyepiece as a test to see how well the threads would work as well as a test of the X/Y calibration of my printer.  It was designed using DesignSpark Mechanical (threads, fillets, and chamfers are easy!).  My printed version fits a little tight, so I opened up the inner diameter by 1mm to make it easier to get the eyepiece in and out of the case.  It will fit the eyepiece whether you have the eye guard extended or collapsed.  It is intended for use with the lens caps in place.I sliced in Cura and printed with Coex3D ABS on Son of MegaMax, my recently rebuilt printer, with a 0.4mm extruder nozzle and 0.32mm layers, 20% infill.  No support, no brim, no raft.


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                                            <p>If you purchase this and have a hard time with all of the files, please contact me and I will send them to you in folders. I cannot upload zipped files or folders here so it may look overwhelming!</p>
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Epic Model Kit: Arctic Dragon

 If you purchase this and have a hard time with all of the files, please contact me and I will send them to you in folders. I cannot upload zipped files or folders here so it may look overwhelming! 

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                                            <p>Portafiliere da parete</p>
<p>Caff&#xE8; - https://www.paypal.me/laprimaidea</p>
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Portafiliere

 Portafiliere da parete Caffè - https://www.paypal.me/laprimaidea 

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                                            <p>One of the things I have wanted to do for a while is to share the linkage between classical machining and 3D printing as they basically are the same thing. Where CNC or classical machining is subtractive and 3D printing is additive the work-flows are still the same from&#xA0;CAD&#xA0;(Computer Aided Design) to&#xA0;CAM&#xA0;(Computer Aided Manufacture) and finely production. With this I stumbled across That Lazy Machinist (see more here: <a href="http://www.thatlazymachinist.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://www.thatlazymachinist.com/</a>) who made a series of blueprints available online (see more here: <a href="http://diy3dtech.com/thatlazymachinistblueprints" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://diy3dtech.com/thatlazymachinistblueprints</a> to download them) so I decided to convert them to 3D prints to demonstrate the interrelations of the disciplines. So the first project I selected was the Bench Block or Anvil.</p>
<p>This is a multipurpose bench tool and in fact converts well to 3D printing as the idea is this used punch out pin (i.e. the hole in the top) as well as hold round stock with the 45 degree bevel across the top. You will find them used quit a bit in gun-smithing and the like where there are a lot of pins which have to be inserted or removed. With this the plastic reduces the chance of marring the object which the pin is being either removed or inserted.</p>
<p>This one was printed in PETG (see more here: <a href="http://diy3dtech.com/petg" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://diy3dtech.com/petg</a>) with the top annealed with a heat gun to strengthen. I would also suggest Bridge Nylon (see more here: <a href="http://diy3dtech.com/bridge_nylon" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://diy3dtech.com/bridge_nylon</a>) for extra durability, yet if does fail after a while. Simply print a new one! That is the beauty of additive manufacturing!</p>
<p>If your looking for the Open-SCAD code you can find it here: <a href="http://openscad.diy3dtech.com/open-scad-that-lazy-machinist-bench-block/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">http://openscad.diy3dtech.com/open-scad-that-lazy-machinist-bench-block/</a> as its easy modifiable to create any kind of bench block you would like!</p>
<p>Want to see more on how we created the code? Well check out this video on our YouTube Channel: <a href="https://youtu.be/pEfEG7FMiXg">https://youtu.be/pEfEG7FMiXg</a></p>
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Bench Block!

 One of the things I have wanted to do for a while is to share the linkage between classical machining and 3D printing as they basically are the same thing. Where CNC or classical machining is subtractive and 3D printing is additive the work-flows are still the same from CAD (Computer Aided Design) to CAM (Computer Aided Manufacture) and finely production. With this I stumbled across That Lazy Machinist (see more here: http://www.thatlazymachinist.com/) who made a series of blueprints available online (see more here: http://diy3dtech.com/thatlazymachinistblueprints to download them) so I decided to convert them to 3D prints to demonstrate the interrelations of the disciplines. So the first project I selected was the Bench Block or Anvil. This is a multipurpose bench tool and in fact converts well to 3D printing as the idea is this used punch out pin (i.e. the hole in the top) as well as hold round stock with the 45 degree bevel across the top. You will find them used quit a bit in gun-smithing and the like where there are a lot of pins which have to be inserted or removed. With this the plastic reduces the chance of marring the object which the pin is being either removed or inserted. This one was printed in PETG (see more here: http://diy3dtech.com/petg) with the top annealed with a heat gun to strengthen. I would also suggest Bridge Nylon (see more here: http://diy3dtech.com/bridge_nylon) for extra durability, yet if does fail after a while. Simply print a new one! That is the beauty of additive manufacturing! If your looking for the Open-SCAD code you can find it here: http://openscad.diy3dtech.com/open-scad-that-lazy-machinist-bench-block/ as its easy modifiable to create any kind of bench block you would like! Want to see more on how we created the code? Well check out this video on our YouTube Channel: https://youtu.be/pEfEG7FMiXg 

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                                            <p>I was gonna make another gag commercial to go along with this like I did with other designs, but then I remembered... these are friggin tweezers. Holy dang diddly dumpster dooky, a simple design for tweezers; cuz here at FFFTechnology, we&apos;ve lost these things so damn much. Like sweet buttery biscuits, we&apos;re sick of going all the way to Walmart, just to buy ANOTHER pair.</p>
<p>Close them lightly so the tips come together, close them slightly harder for the tweezers to get a bit of a better hold on something.</p>
<p>So here ya go... Tweezers.</p>
<p>&#xA0;</p>
<p>Sanding Instructions:</p>
<p>Since I use a FDM/FFF printer, when printing small objects, fine tips often become slightly blobby. If this occurs for you, simply run the inside of the tips down with a fine grit sandpaper, only a pass or two should be needed. Make sure after sanding you close the tips in front of a light source; visually inspecting to see if any light shows through. If not, they should grip fine hairs and the like quite well. If not, make a pass or two more of sandpaper. Repeat as necessary.</p>
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Basic Tweezers

 I was gonna make another gag commercial to go along with this like I did with other designs, but then I remembered... these are friggin tweezers. Holy dang diddly dumpster dooky, a simple design for tweezers; cuz here at FFFTechnology, we've lost these things so damn much. Like sweet buttery biscuits, we're sick of going all the way to Walmart, just to buy ANOTHER pair. Close them lightly so the tips come together, close them slightly harder for the tweezers to get a bit of a better hold on something. So here ya go... Tweezers. Sanding Instructions: Since I use a FDM/FFF printer, when printing small objects, fine tips often become slightly blobby. If this occurs for you, simply run the inside of the tips down with a fine grit sandpaper, only a pass or two should be needed. Make sure after sanding you close the tips in front of a light source; visually inspecting to see if any light shows through. If not, they should grip fine hairs and the like quite well. If not, make a pass or two more of sandpaper. Repeat as necessary. 

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                                            <p>i just used heavy duty Velcro to attach it to the jacket but feel free to use a different method&#xA0;</p>
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cyberpunk 2077 jacket greeble

 i just used heavy duty Velcro to attach it to the jacket but feel free to use a different method 

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                                            <p>I created this file for those who want to create personalized earrings, starting from this file<br>if you want to support me, it would make me very happy</p>
<p>paypal:&#xA0;giovannipalazzo1@hotmail.it</p>
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rhombus earring

 I created this file for those who want to create personalized earrings, starting from this fileif you want to support me, it would make me very happy paypal: giovannipalazzo1@hotmail.it 

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                                            <p>Hi,</p>
<p>Hope you enjoy this pen holder</p>
<p>This pen dock can be used for a variety of pen type and size.</p>
<p>Recommend to print with 100% infill to increase its weight which will help to keep the whole thing balance.&#xA0;</p>
<p>Enjoy</p>
<p>Henry</p>
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Pen Holder

 Hi, Hope you enjoy this pen holder This pen dock can be used for a variety of pen type and size. Recommend to print with 100% infill to increase its weight which will help to keep the whole thing balance. Enjoy Henry 

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                                            <p><span style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Purement Anti Microbial Filament Competition</span></p>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;">&#xA0;</div>
<div style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><span style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 11px;">Cannon to save cotton, cotton looks like smoke shot.It is necessary to remove the cannon&apos;s mouth support.</span></div>
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Cannon to save cotton

 Purement Anti Microbial Filament Competition Cannon to save cotton, cotton looks like smoke shot.It is necessary to remove the cannon's mouth support. 

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<div><p>I really like the Ender 3 LED light bar holder venegade designed, and it&apos;s been a great addition to my Ender, so I wanted one for my Prusa MK3S. </p>
<p>I&apos;ve only made two changes to the original design, I resized the part that clips to the frame, and I resized the portion of the arm that the light bar sits in, to accommodate a specific light bar:</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3YG8PP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3YG8PP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Hatchbox+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Hatchbox PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I left some space on the part that clips to the frame to accommodate any variation in the powder coat, it may be a tiny bit loose, but the light bar is tight fitting and adds enough rigidity that I&apos;m not worried about it. I haven&apos;t experienced any movement or vibration.</p></div>
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Prusa LED light bar holder

I really like the Ender 3 LED light bar holder venegade designed, and it's been a great addition to my Ender, so I wanted one for my Prusa MK3S. 

I've only made two changes to the original design, I resized the part that clips to the frame, and I resized the portion of the arm that the light bar sits in, to accommodate a specific light bar:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y3YG8PP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1






<p>Why spend $150 or more at the Honda Dealer to replace a flimsy key? &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;1.) Break apart old key and extract the metal key blade - if you need these parts, this likely already happened at the worst possible time... &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;&#xA0;2.) 3D print the above parts at 100% infill &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;3.) While it is printing (&#x2248;2 hours) trim/file/sand off the three little triangular protrusions from the transmitter body.  They will interfere with the new housing. &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;4.) Insert the hex nuts into the back of Key Bottom.  It is intentionally a tight fit.  I used a soldering iron to heat the nut and melt it into place. &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;5.) Squeeze the metal key shank into the Key Bottom using a smooth-jaw vise.  The shank of the key is also a tight fit to prevent any play.  Apply loctite and install one 3mm long screw through the back into the threaded hole in the key shank. &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;6.) Install the transmitter and anti-theft chip into the Key Top, align with Key Bottom, and again squeeze together in a smooth-jaw vise until the two sides just touch - Do Not Crush! &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;7.) Apply loctite and install the remaining screws.  The long screws go in the corners, the second 3mm long screw goes into the key from the top. &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;Thanks to WL_Production, who had published the yellow printed key housing I used for a few months (found here: <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:954099" rel="external">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:954099</a>)<br>
I redesigned the housing from scratch to make the panic button slightly below the surface, as I kept setting off the panic alarm. The two red housings were my prototypes, while I worked to get the fit just right. &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;&#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;&#xA0;Also, if you have another Honda with a similar key that has the trunk button, follow the above assembly steps, but instead, print out the other part Key Top - With Trunk Button.STL &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0;&#xA0;I have included SolidWorks files, .STP files and .IGES files so you can open and modify in CAD.</p>


Honda Pilot Key Housing

Why spend $150 or more at the Honda Dealer to replace a flimsy key?          1.) Break apart old key and extract the metal key blade - if you need these parts, this likely already happened at the worst possible time...           2.) 3D print the above parts at 100% infill          3.) While it is printing (≈2 hours) trim/file/sand off the three little triangular protrusions from the transmitter body.  They will interfere with the new housing.          4.) Insert the hex nuts into the back of Key Bottom.  It is intentionally a tight fit.  I used a soldering iron to heat the nut and melt it into place.          5.) Squeeze the metal key shank into the Key Bottom using a smooth-jaw vise.  The shank of the key is also a tight fit to prevent any play.  Apply loctite and install one 3mm long screw through the back into the threaded hole in the key shank.          6.) Install the transmitter and anti-theft chip into the Key Top, align with Key Bottom, and again squeeze together in a smooth-jaw vise until the two sides just touch - Do Not Crush!          7.) Apply loctite and install the remaining screws.  The long screws go in the corners, the second 3mm long screw goes into the key from the top.                    Thanks to WL_Production, who had published the yellow printed key housing I used for a few months (found here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:954099)
I redesigned the housing from scratch to make the panic button slightly below the surface, as I kept setting off the panic alarm. The two red housings were my prototypes, while I worked to get the fit just right.                                                              Also, if you have another Honda with a similar key that has the trunk button, follow the above assembly steps, but instead, print out the other part Key Top - With Trunk Button.STL                                                                                                             I have included SolidWorks files, .STP files and .IGES files so you can open and modify in CAD.


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                                            <p>Cute diorama<br> Eevee and espeon from pokemon</p>
<p>The link of the Wicker basket : <a href="http://www.123dapp.com/" rel="nofollow">http://www.123dapp.com/</a></p>
<p>&#xA0;</p>
<p>photos by 7Fish</p>
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♡♡ Eevee and Espeon ♡♡

 Cute diorama Eevee and espeon from pokemon The link of the Wicker basket : http://www.123dapp.com/ photos by 7Fish 

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