Name: Practice Busts
Brand: Bella Nacht Miniatures
Availability: InStock

Cascade Lacrosse uses Lulzbot 3D printers to test new ideas and bring comfortable, safe helmets to the market in a shorter amount of time. 

Cascade Lacrosse Uses Lulzbot 3D Printers to Prototype Helmets | All3DP

An innovative 3D printed prostate gland model, created by a Sheffield engineer, helps doctors treat their patients more efficiently.

Sheffield Engineer Creates Innovative 3D Printed Prostate Model | All3DP

For fans of Star Trek who have dreamed of having their own lifelike ship, mini versions can now be 3D printed and collected. To boldly go...

Buy a 3D Printed Model of your Favorite Star Trek Spacecraft | All3DP

This 3D printed lightsaber is the ultimate Star Wars cosplay prop, with a cutaway design showing the internal construction of the hilt.

Star Wars Lightsaber: This 3D Printed Lightsaber is Insanely Detailed | All3DP

The 4th of July is a big holiday in the United States. Commemorate Independence Day with lots of great America-themed 3D prints!

4th of July: 18 Great Models to Celebrate Independence Day | All3DP

When Paul Curry was diagnosed with cancer, he 3D printed his own skeleton from a PET/CAT scan to help him cope through "busywork".

Programmer 3D Prints own Skeleton to Help Cope with Cancer | All3DP

Check out our 12 different kinds of resin that are guaranteed to work with the Elegoo Mars and Mars Pro. Go print your next masterpiece!

Elegoo Mars (Pro) Resin: Which Resins Can I Use? | All3DP

PLA and PLA+ (PLA plus) filaments have a number of similarities. But what makes them different? Learn the differences when we compare them side by side.

PLA vs PLA+/Plus Filament: The Differences | All3DP

Australian scientists are using a special bio-ink made from stem cells to 3D print patient-specific brain tissue.

Scientists Are Bioprinting Brain-Like Tissue From Stem Cells | All3DP

Hold on a second. There’s an Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0 now? Already? Well, ok then. Join us as we check out the specs.

Anycubic Mega Zero 2.0: Specs, Price, Release & Reviews | All3DP

3D printing personalization capabilities might soon make it possible to create wearable electronics that people may actually want to wear all the time

3D Printing Will Make Electronics Truly Wearable | All3DP

Debating between Creality's versions of the CR-10? Well, fret no further: Read on as we break down the differences between these popular machines.

Creality CR-10 vs CR-10 V2 vs CR-10 V3: The Differences | All3DP

Component box

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>BOX GAME OVER</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/cjeAHtuDD48" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/1d/1b/aa/75/75/IMG_8531.JPG"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/9a/bd/b0/06/3a/IMG_8532.JPG"></p>
</body></html>

GAME OVER

<p><iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/1CB3UVmEcB0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>

<p>POV LED Wand<br>
In this project we&#x2019;ll show you how to build a POV LED wand. Adafruit DotStar&#x2019;s deliver high speed PWM making them great for Persistence Of Vision. It&#x2019;s powered by Adafruit&#x2019;s Circuit Python, making it really easy to change and modify. The Adafruit Feather shows up as a USB drive so you can drag and drop the code. The handle and wand were designed to be 3D printed and houses all of the electronics.</p>

<p>Full Tutorial Learning Guide:<br>
<a href="https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-painter/" rel="external">https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-painter/</a></p>

<p>Adafruit invests time and resources providing this open source design, please support Adafruit and open-source hardware by purchasing products from Adafruit!</p>

<p>Visit the Adafruit shop online - <a href="http://www.adafruit.com" rel="external">http://www.adafruit.com</a></p>


CircuitPython POV DotStar LED Wand



POV LED Wand
In this project we’ll show you how to build a POV LED wand. Adafruit DotStar’s deliver high speed PWM making them great for Persistence Of Vision. It’s powered by Adafruit’s Circuit Python, making it really easy to change and modify. The Adafruit Feather shows up as a USB drive so you can drag and drop the code. The handle and wand were designed to be 3D printed and houses all of the electronics.

Full Tutorial Learning Guide:
https://learn.adafruit.com/circuitpython-painter/

Adafruit invests time and resources providing this open source design, please support Adafruit and open-source hardware by purchasing products from Adafruit!

Visit the Adafruit shop online - http://www.adafruit.com


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                                            <p>&#xA0;</p>
<p><span style="color: #000000; font-family: &apos;Open Sans&apos;, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: #ffffff; display: inline !important; float: none;">Borghese Gladiator, Agasias, copy from an Greek original 100 B.C., plaster cast, The National Gallery (Copenhagen, Denmark). Made with Memento Beta</span> (now ReMake) from AutoDesk.</p>
<p>For more updates, please follow @GeoffreyMarchal on Twitter.</p>
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Borghese Gladiator

 Borghese Gladiator, Agasias, copy from an Greek original 100 B.C., plaster cast, The National Gallery (Copenhagen, Denmark). Made with Memento Beta (now ReMake) from AutoDesk. For more updates, please follow @GeoffreyMarchal on Twitter. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is an modular desk organizer. It&apos;s still Work in Progress but I try to publish as many new modules as I can. </p>
<p>Current modules:</p>
<ul><li>USB/SD-Card organizer</li>
<li>Pen Holder</li>
</ul><p>Planned modules:</p>
<ul><li>Phone stand</li>
<li>Note box</li>
<li>storage for paper clips, staples, etc.</li>
<li>your suggestions here!</li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 5</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=any+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        any PLA                    </a>

                    
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>PLA on my Ender 5 with 80 mm/s print speed (20 mm/s @ first layer).</p></div>
</body></html>

HexOrganizer

This is an modular desk organizer. It's still Work in Progress but I try to publish as many new modules as I can. 

Current modules:
- USB/SD-Card organizer
- Pen Holder

Planned modules:
- Phone stand
- Note box
- storage for paper clips, staples, etc.
- your suggestions here!

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                                            <p>This is a bracelet that can be printed at once in one piece without any support. There are two designs in two different sizes.&#xA0;One type&#xA0;has a bit bended stems, the other one has straghten stems. I&apos;ve updated my design because the bended was a bit harder to print and it may need more sanding by higher layer heights. The sizes are based on the stems: wtih 6 stems the perimeter is about 16 cm, with 7 stems it&apos;s around 19cm. But you can choose the one with 7 pieces and cut it in the lenght that fits.</p>
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chain bracelet

 This is a bracelet that can be printed at once in one piece without any support. There are two designs in two different sizes. One type has a bit bended stems, the other one has straghten stems. I've updated my design because the bended was a bit harder to print and it may need more sanding by higher layer heights. The sizes are based on the stems: wtih 6 stems the perimeter is about 16 cm, with 7 stems it's around 19cm. But you can choose the one with 7 pieces and cut it in the lenght that fits. 

<p>Hey, <br>I build this design to cover a TL-WR841nd router (with Freifunk Firmware) for Outdoor use. There are two different designs for pole or screw fixation.<br>I printed it in ABs and PLA but did not manage to get the ABS layer stick so strong together to not break while sliding the router in (there&apos;s a snap mechanism that holds the router while hanging) -&gt; this stresses thew cover most..</p><p><br></p><p>(This comes with no guarantee...)</p>


TL-WR841n Outdoor Cover (pole or screw fix)

Hey, I build this design to cover a TL-WR841nd router (with Freifunk Firmware) for Outdoor use. There are two different designs for pole or screw fixation.I printed it in ABs and PLA but did not manage to get the ABS layer stick so strong together to not break while sliding the router in (there's a snap mechanism that holds the router while hanging) -> this stresses thew cover most..(This comes with no guarantee...)


<p>This is a keyring-light that consists of three printed parts, a LED
    and a battery.<br>
    The dimensions of the latter two should be:<br>
    - LED: a diameter of 4.8 mm and a rim at the base with a diameter of
    5.4 mm and a width of 1 mm<br>
    - battery: 2 mm thick and a diameter of 12.3 mm (CR1220)<br>
    <br>
    The dimensions are crucial, and I found that they vary with layer
    height. I printed this with an Ultimaker 2 and sliced the model with
    Cura with the following settings:<br>
    - layer height: 0.1 mm<br>
    - infill: 40% (20% might make top surfaces less smooth, which might not
    be a problem, but it hardly affects print time)<br>
    - print speed: 40 mm/s (80 mm/s also works, but doesn&apos;t look as good)<br>
    <br>
    The three printed parts are:<br>
    - lower cap<br>
    - upper cap<br>
    - slide<br>
    <br>
    It should all fit snuggly, for which I used tight fits. So postprocessing is probably required,
    for which I use a nail file, a course file and a round file that is
    the diameter of the LED (smaller would of course also work -
    alternatively, you might use fairly fine grained sandpaper wrapped
    around a big nail or such).<br>
    Filing will most likely be needed for:<br>
    - the outside of the lower cap ring (in which the LED is to be placed), especially the top; this is the top of the print, so
    there may be some ooze. This would make it difficult to place the
    upper cap over it. But don&apos;t file the protrusion down completely,
    because it keeps the lower cap in place.<br>
    - the insides of the lower and upper cap rings. This is where the round file comes
    in handy.<br>
    - the sliding parts of the slide and the upper cap. Especially for
    this a thin nail file would be very handy. An 8 mm wide file would
    fit nicely in between the slide-bits of the upper cap (I bought mine
    at a SPAR supermarket). You might finish this off by sliding the
    parts back and forth a few times to smoothen the surfaces.<br>
    And possibly also, so the keyrings will fit throught the vertical slots
    in the slide:<br>
    - the keyrings-holders <br>
    - the inside of the keyring-holder holes of the slide<br>
    <br>
    The legs of the LED have to be prepared. First, they should be bent
    outward at the base because they are not far apart enough to fit
    across the battery. This is especially important for the upper leg,
    to prevent it touching the battery at the base.<br>
    The leg that goes into the lower cap then simply needs to be bent
    back a bit. The other leg should then be bent back in and then back
    out again, such that the second bend is at about 6 mm from the base of the LED. This is the most
    crucial measurement. Where the first bend is doesn&apos;t matter as much
    as that it bends upwards sufficiently so the mechanism can push the
    leg down.<br><br>
    <u>Assembly</u><br>See the video.<br>
Place the LED in the lower cap, then slide the battery in,
    preferably with the rubber ring at the top. Note that the LED and
    battery only work one way around, so test that first before assembly
    (and before bending).<br>
    Next, place the upper cap by sliding the half ring over the LED-ring
    of the lower cap at an angle, then move it down at the back.<br>
    Finally, slide in the slide at the back, with the keyring-holders passing
    through the vertical slots. Make sure the LED leg goes into the tiny hole of the cylinder.<br>
The slide cap will now keep the lower
    and upper cap together. You might need to
    slide back and forth a few times to smoothen the sliding surfaces.<br>
    <br>
    Now the LED should turn on when you move the slide back. If not,
    readjust the bends of the LED-legs.<br>
    To prevent it sliding way back out, effectively disassembling itself,
    put something throught the keyring-holders. For example a key ring.
    :) <br>
    </p>


Keyring light

This is a keyring-light that consists of three printed parts, a LED
    and a battery.
    The dimensions of the latter two should be:
    - LED: a diameter of 4.8 mm and a rim at the base with a diameter of
    5.4 mm and a width of 1 mm
    - battery: 2 mm thick and a diameter of 12.3 mm (CR1220)
    
    The dimensions are crucial, and I found that they vary with layer
    height. I printed this with an Ultimaker 2 and sliced the model with
    Cura with the following settings:
    - layer height: 0.1 mm
    - infill: 40% (20% might make top surfaces less smooth, which might not
    be a problem, but it hardly affects print time)
    - print speed: 40 mm/s (80 mm/s also works, but doesn't look as good)
    
    The three printed parts are:
    - lower cap
    - upper cap
    - slide
    
    It should all fit snuggly, for which I used tight fits. So postprocessing is probably required,
    for which I use a nail file, a course file and a round file that is
    the diameter of the LED (smaller would of course also work -
    alternatively, you might use fairly fine grained sandpaper wrapped
    around a big nail or such).
    Filing will most likely be needed for:
    - the outside of the lower cap ring (in which the LED is to be placed), especially the top; this is the top of the print, so
    there may be some ooze. This would make it difficult to place the
    upper cap over it. But don't file the protrusion down completely,
    because it keeps the lower cap in place.
    - the insides of the lower and upper cap rings. This is where the round file comes
    in handy.
    - the sliding parts of the slide and the upper cap. Especially for
    this a thin nail file would be very handy. An 8 mm wide file would
    fit nicely in between the slide-bits of the upper cap (I bought mine
    at a SPAR supermarket). You might finish this off by sliding the
    parts back and forth a few times to smoothen the surfaces.
    And possibly also, so the keyrings will fit throught the vertical slots
    in the slide:
    - the keyrings-holders 
    - the inside of the keyring-holder holes of the slide
    
    The legs of the LED have to be prepared. First, they should be bent
    outward at the base because they are not far apart enough to fit
    across the battery. This is especially important for the upper leg,
    to prevent it touching the battery at the base.
    The leg that goes into the lower cap then simply needs to be bent
    back a bit. The other leg should then be bent back in and then back
    out again, such that the second bend is at about 6 mm from the base of the LED. This is the most
    crucial measurement. Where the first bend is doesn't matter as much
    as that it bends upwards sufficiently so the mechanism can push the
    leg down.
    AssemblySee the video.
Place the LED in the lower cap, then slide the battery in,
    preferably with the rubber ring at the top. Note that the LED and
    battery only work one way around, so test that first before assembly
    (and before bending).
    Next, place the upper cap by sliding the half ring over the LED-ring
    of the lower cap at an angle, then move it down at the back.
    Finally, slide in the slide at the back, with the keyring-holders passing
    through the vertical slots. Make sure the LED leg goes into the tiny hole of the cylinder.
The slide cap will now keep the lower
    and upper cap together. You might need to
    slide back and forth a few times to smoothen the sliding surfaces.
    
    Now the LED should turn on when you move the slide back. If not,
    readjust the bends of the LED-legs.
    To prevent it sliding way back out, effectively disassembling itself,
    put something throught the keyring-holders. For example a key ring.
    :) 
    


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                                            <p>This object was made in Tinkercad. <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gDYrpbsuAI">https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gDYrpbsuAI</a></p>
<p>This is my entry in the MyMiniFactory Tinkercad 3D Design Competition. I choose to design a modern day Desk Sized Planter that doubles as a NightLight and I&apos;m calling it MoonLight. After about 3 dozen or so design changes and prints, I believe this is the final version... (for now LOL) It prints in Four individual pieces for color customization and design changes. The Flower Pot itself has a honeycomb mesh base plate to prevent soil from clogging the drain hole for excess water. Inside the base, houses the drip tray, LED Lights, and LED USB controller. The NighLight function is powered by a single, standard USB connector that can easily be plugged into any desktop computer, laptop or USB power supply. The LEDs are the typical SMD type found on Amazon. Be sure to only use ones with an RF (radio Frequency) controller, because the IR type won&apos;t work through the printed plastic. I really enjoyed designing and making this project, and I hope that MyMiniFactory Has future competitions like this!&#xA0;</p>
<p>&#xA0;</p>
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MOONLIGHT NIGHTLIGHT PLANTER My Entry for the MyMiniMaker 3D Design Competition

 This object was made in Tinkercad. https://www.tinkercad.com/things/gDYrpbsuAI This is my entry in the MyMiniFactory Tinkercad 3D Design Competition. I choose to design a modern day Desk Sized Planter that doubles as a NightLight and I'm calling it MoonLight. After about 3 dozen or so design changes and prints, I believe this is the final version... (for now LOL) It prints in Four individual pieces for color customization and design changes. The Flower Pot itself has a honeycomb mesh base plate to prevent soil from clogging the drain hole for excess water. Inside the base, houses the drip tray, LED Lights, and LED USB controller. The NighLight function is powered by a single, standard USB connector that can easily be plugged into any desktop computer, laptop or USB power supply. The LEDs are the typical SMD type found on Amazon. Be sure to only use ones with an RF (radio Frequency) controller, because the IR type won't work through the printed plastic. I really enjoyed designing and making this project, and I hope that MyMiniFactory Has future competitions like this! 

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                                            <p>These snowflake ornaments are about 50mm across and were generated with the <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1159436" rel="nofollow">Snowflake Machine</a>.</p>
<p>The models are optimized for printing on an Ultimaker 2 with ABS and the standard .4mm nozzle, at .1mm layer height. If you want snowflake ornaments that are already tested and ready to go, then print these.</p>
<p>But it&apos;s much more fun to go make your own, so go do that at the <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1159436" rel="nofollow">Snowflake Machine</a>! For 50mm snowflakes, set the &quot;Target Diameter&quot; to 50 in the &quot;Global Size Settings&quot;.</p>
<p>=====</p>
<p>Twitter:&#xA0;&#xA0;twitter.com/mathgrrl</p>
<p>Hacktastic blog:&#xA0;&#xA0;mathgrrl.com/hacktastic</p>
<p>Shapeways geekhaus store:&#xA0;&#xA0;shapeways.com/shops/mathgrrl</p>
<p>This design and all associated pictures and files are licensed under the&#xA0;Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alikelicense. If you want to use designs, images, or files outside of the terms of this license, please email&#xA0;request@mathgrrl.com.<br>&#xA0;</p>
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Small Snowflake Ornaments - from the Snowflake Machine

 These snowflake ornaments are about 50mm across and were generated with the Snowflake Machine. The models are optimized for printing on an Ultimaker 2 with ABS and the standard .4mm nozzle, at .1mm layer height. If you want snowflake ornaments that are already tested and ready to go, then print these. But it's much more fun to go make your own, so go do that at the Snowflake Machine! For 50mm snowflakes, set the "Target Diameter" to 50 in the "Global Size Settings". ===== Twitter: twitter.com/mathgrrl Hacktastic blog: mathgrrl.com/hacktastic Shapeways geekhaus store: shapeways.com/shops/mathgrrl This design and all associated pictures and files are licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alikelicense. If you want to use designs, images, or files outside of the terms of this license, please email request@mathgrrl.com. 

<p>The open-source syringe pump is designed for large syringes; this mod adds a small part for its Open syringe clamp modification to allow using smaller syringes by attaching this part on top of the main syringe pump.</p>

<p>The openSCAD file (attached) can be altered easily to change sizes; However, with smaller syringe sizes the original part&apos;s depth must be scaled so that the parts fit between plunger and tube.</p>


Small syringe holder for open-source syringe pump

The open-source syringe pump is designed for large syringes; this mod adds a small part for its Open syringe clamp modification to allow using smaller syringes by attaching this part on top of the main syringe pump.

The openSCAD file (attached) can be altered easily to change sizes; However, with smaller syringe sizes the original part's depth must be scaled so that the parts fit between plunger and tube.


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                                            <p style="color: #343638; font-size: 14.6667px; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; background-color: #f5f5f5;">Kylo Ren&apos;s Lightsaber! I designed this hilt with more of the overall form in mind rather than how it would be broken apart to paint because the finish is somewhat uniform except for some of the small exposed parts/greebles, but kept part lines in mind. Overall, I am happy with the result.</p>
<p style="color: #343638; font-size: 14.6667px; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; background-color: #f5f5f5;">I printed the lower chamber, side emitters and clamp with supports generated in Cura. And of course be sure to print two of the side emitters.</p>
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Kylo Ren's Lightsaber

 Kylo Ren's Lightsaber! I designed this hilt with more of the overall form in mind rather than how it would be broken apart to paint because the finish is somewhat uniform except for some of the small exposed parts/greebles, but kept part lines in mind. Overall, I am happy with the result. I printed the lower chamber, side emitters and clamp with supports generated in Cura. And of course be sure to print two of the side emitters. 

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                                            <p>Practice busts for skin tone painting. Free download.</p>
<p>Thank you for supporting Bella Nacht Miniatures!&#xA0;</p>
<p>Please join the <a href="Facebook group&#xA0;" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Facebook group</a> and <a href="https://discord.gg/spspEMY" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Discord Channel&#xA0;</a></p>
<p><a href="https://gumroad.com/bellanacht" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Gumroad Shop for commercial licenses</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.instagram.com/bellanacht_3d/" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Instagram</a></p>
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Practice Busts

 Practice busts for skin tone painting. Free download. Thank you for supporting Bella Nacht Miniatures! Please join the Facebook group and Discord Channel Gumroad Shop for commercial licenses Instagram 

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