Easiscoop and Easispread are self-heating kitchen utensils coming to IndieGoGo soon after creators developed prototypes with Proto Labs.

Proto Labs Helped Develop 3D Printed Easiscoop Prototypes | All3DP

The Swedish bioprinting startup Cellink is working alongside CTI Biotech to 3D print replicas of cancer tissues in order to find more effective treatments.  

Cellink Uses Bioprinting to Print Cancer Tissues and Develop Effective Treatment | All3DP

Renishaw engineers use the AM250 3D printer to restore 1938 Hawker Typhoon aircraft for the Jet Age Museum in Gloucester, UK.

Hawker Typhoon Restored with 3D Printed Cockpit Brackets | All3DP

This weeks project brings back arcade memories: Invite your friends over and have fun playing your favorite Nintendo Switch games, arcade-style.

[Project] 3D Print Your Own Nintendo Switch Arcade Cabinet | All3DP

Ultimaker has just released Cura Connect. Its feature set lets you control multiple Ultimaker 3 printers from one dashboard.

Ultimaker Releases Cura Connect, Free 3D Printer Management Solution | All3DP

Maker Sexy Cyborb has created another masterpiece -- the "Pi-Palette" is a "pentesting computer" hidden away in a cosmetic case.

Pi-Palette is a Hacker's Cosmetic Case Designed by Sexy Cyborg | All3DP

The new industrial-strength power in additive manufacturing is here: HP's Multi Jet Fusion. Take a look at how it works and why it's a game-changer for 3D printing.

Multi Jet Fusion (MJF) – 3D Printing Simply Explained | All3DP

Hewlett-Packard is closing down their facility in Leixlip, Ireland. This hints at the company's shift from 2D to the 3D printing market.

HP to Shutdown Operation in Ireland, Nearly 500 Employees Face Layoffs | All3DP

Gaming lives of its iconic characters. No wonder fans have designed a great variety 3D printed gaming mascots. Here are the best.

Vault Boy, Pikachu, Mario: Greatest 3D Printed Gaming Mascots | All3DP

Building on the success of its Titan extruder and V6 hotend, E3D launches the lightweight and compact Titan Aero extruder-hotend 2-in-1.

E3D Unveils New Titan Aero Extruder & Hotend Combo | All3DP

If you want your Ender 3, Pro, or V2 to do more than just 3D printing, read on to see how to upgrade your Ender 3 to a laser engraver!

Ender 3 (Pro/V2) Laser Engraver Upgrade: How to Install It | All3DP

Check out this article to get an overview of 3D printing materials and their costs today. And if you want to get something 3D printed, read our article on .

How Much Do 3D Printing Materials Cost? | All3DP

i do that file in cinema4d here is stl file and obj file. ready to print. i hope its helped you thx

pipe

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<div><p>The fan of the PSU is about 10-15 db quieter with this addon.</p>
<p>I&apos;ve used the preinstalled screws from the fan.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=N%2FA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        N/A PLA                    </a>

                    N/A
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Fan Silencer for Eryone Thinker S V2 / SE PSU

The fan of the PSU is about 10-15 db quieter with this addon.

I've used the preinstalled screws from the fan.

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<div><p>Narrow Toothed Bucket Huina </p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHDTjTplrWg&amp;feature=push-prem-sub&amp;attr_tag=_MHK5NJEQsi0CuqT%3A6">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHDTjTplrWg&amp;feature=push-prem-sub&amp;attr_tag=_MHK5NJEQsi0CuqT%3A6</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=n+pla&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        n pla                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Narrow Toothed Bucket Huina </p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHDTjTplrWg&amp;feature=push-prem-sub&amp;attr_tag=_MHK5NJEQsi0CuqT%3A6">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHDTjTplrWg&amp;feature=push-prem-sub&amp;attr_tag=_MHK5NJEQsi0CuqT%3A6</a></p></div>
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Narrow Toothed Bucket Huina 

Narrow Toothed Bucket Huina 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHDTjTplrWg&feature=push-prem-sub&attr_tag=_MHK5NJEQsi0CuqT%3A6

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                                            <p>Example printed in <a href="https://luna.r.lafamo.com/ts/i5536385/tsc?tst=!!TIME_STAMP!!&amp;amc=socialpaid.blbn.495531.504639.164166&amp;pid=4567&amp;rmd=3&amp;trg=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.3djake.com%2Ffillamentum%2Fflexfill-98a-pistachio-green%3Fsai%3D4567%26utm_source%3Dbelboon%26utm_medium%3Dcpc%26utm_campaign%3DPreisvergleich">Fillamentum Flexfill 98A pistachio green</a>, which is a perfect filament for a print like this. Get it <a href="https://luna.r.lafamo.com/ts/i5536385/tsc?tst=!!TIME_STAMP!!&amp;amc=socialpaid.blbn.495531.504639.164166&amp;pid=4567&amp;rmd=3&amp;trg=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.3djake.com%2Ffillamentum%2Fflexfill-98a-pistachio-green%3Fsai%3D4567%26utm_source%3Dbelboon%26utm_medium%3Dcpc%26utm_campaign%3DPreisvergleich">here</a>! (affiliate links)</p>
<p>I&apos;ve always thought the gyroid infill looked cool, but it turns out that it has some awesome physical properties as well: it&apos;s an infinitely connected periodic minimal surface, which (non-technically) gives it high strength and minimal area, making it perfect for 3D printing.</p>
<p>I created this very simple bookmark with a solid base shape (essentially a long rectangular prism with rounded ends) and printed it with no top or bottom layers, giving it the exposed gyroid look. I didn&apos;t really do any of the work: your slicer will create the exposed gyroid pattern. You can also print it regularly for a very basic bookmark.</p>
<p>Experiment in your slicer with different infill densities to give the infill the 3D qualities you want. Mine was printed with a 0.3 mm nozzle and 20% gyroid infill.</p>
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Gyroid Bookmark

 Example printed in Fillamentum Flexfill 98A pistachio green, which is a perfect filament for a print like this. Get it here! (affiliate links) I've always thought the gyroid infill looked cool, but it turns out that it has some awesome physical properties as well: it's an infinitely connected periodic minimal surface, which (non-technically) gives it high strength and minimal area, making it perfect for 3D printing. I created this very simple bookmark with a solid base shape (essentially a long rectangular prism with rounded ends) and printed it with no top or bottom layers, giving it the exposed gyroid look. I didn't really do any of the work: your slicer will create the exposed gyroid pattern. You can also print it regularly for a very basic bookmark. Experiment in your slicer with different infill densities to give the infill the 3D qualities you want. Mine was printed with a 0.3 mm nozzle and 20% gyroid infill. 

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                                            <p>Rail seat bike mount for GoPro and SJCAM, enjoy!</p>
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GoPro rail seat bike mount

 Rail seat bike mount for GoPro and SJCAM, enjoy! 

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                                            <p>Comes with a Dice Head Variant for each dice in a standard RPG set plus a chibi variant. 7 models in total.</p>
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Mindslayer

 Comes with a Dice Head Variant for each dice in a standard RPG set plus a chibi variant. 7 models in total. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>10 Business Envelope Writing Guide for Blind &amp; Visually Impaired</h3>
<p>This writing guide will line up with a 4 1/8&quot; by 9 1/2&quot; #10 business envelope to allow easy identification of return and sender fields. There are four fields for return and four fields for recipient address. Recipient fields are aligned to the right of the envelope. </p></div>
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#10 Business Envelope Writing Guide for Visually Impaired

#10 Business Envelope Writing Guide for Blind & Visually Impaired 

This writing guide will line up with a 4 1/8" by 9 1/2" #10 business envelope to allow easy identification of return and sender fields. There are four fields for return and four fields for recipient address. Recipient fields are aligned to the right of the envelope. 

CapTest

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                                            <p>This is a nice emergency stop mushroom button you can place above any switch, this is both useful for safety and to make your machine look more impressive.</p>
<p>There are 3 ways to use this model:</p>
<ol>
<li>
<p>You can use the entire model as-is, the box is designed to hold a 170-points solderless min-breadboard with a button in the middle, there&apos;s even a hole for the wires going into the box (in the picture you can see the breadboard but there&apos;s no button on it because I ran out of buttons and I&apos;m waiting for a bag of buttons to arrive from China).</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>You can incorporate the panel into your design, in this case you don&apos;t need to print the box.</p>
</li>
<li>Or, you can just copy the holes from the panel into your own panel, in this case you don&apos;t need the box and the panel, obviously.</li>
</ol>
<p>When fully pressed the button reaches 13.4mm behind the panel (when the panel is 1.4m thick)</p>
<p><em>Safety note:</em> this is just a fancy cover for a momentary push button, it&apos;s your responsibility to make sure your machine stops when someone hit the big red stop button.</p>
<p><strong>Printing instructions:</strong></p>
<p>All the part are printed in PLA (except for the spring that is PETG - but ABS also works) with 1.2mm shell,1.2mm top/bottom and no support.</p>
<p><strong>estop box</strong> - The walls of the box are thick, but this prints and works just fine when they are hollow, print with no infill.</p>
<p><strong>estop panel</strong> and <strong>estop cover</strong> - those are all basically all shell, infill makes no difference.</p>
<p><strong>estop pin</strong> - use at least 3 shells to make it solid, since it shouldn&apos;t be exposed to any sideways pressure it should work just fine with no infill - or - you can be extra careful and use 100% infill, it doesn&apos;t matter so much because its small and wont use much material either way, I printed with 10% infill because I wanted to print it together with the button.</p>
<p><strong>estop button</strong> - this is the button itself, it look much better when you under extrude a bit, I printed mine at 95% flow, if the letters &quot;STOP&quot; on the front are too thin and not visible you need to reduce your flow (or extrusion multiplier) some more.</p>
<p>The button should work just fine with no infill (the important bit on the back are built on top of the shells of the &quot;STOP&quot; text and not on a bridge) but I printed with 10% infill to make it stronger.</p>
<p>If you have problems with platform adhesion use a raft and not a brim for the button.</p>
<p><strong>stop spring</strong> - this is the only part I didn&apos;t print in PLA because I don&apos;t trust PLA to bend without breaking, even in PETG or ABS the spring will break very quickly under sideways forces, the button is designed to never expose the spring to such forces so it should work just fine once assembled.</p>
<p>You may need a brim fro this part (in this case cutting it off with scissors is the best way to get the brim off without damaging the spring).</p>
<p><strong>Assembly Instructions:</strong></p>
<ol>
<li>
<p>First check if the button fits into the cover (with the pins away from the button), if the cover is too tight first make sure you don&apos;t have bits of the first layer sticking out in the round part, if that doesn&apos;t solve the problem there are two small notches inside the cover to stop the button from wobbling you can file them a bit until the button can travel freely.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>The cover pins fits into the holes in the panel, it should be a tight fit and require some force to assembly, if it&apos;s too tight you can file the holes a bit, if it&apos;s too loose a drop of glue on each pin will hold it in place.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>The next part is the pin, it goes into the hole in the base (bigger flat part inside), the two holes on the top of the pin should point sideways.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Now the spring goes into the cover around the pin.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>And then the button should pressure-fit into the pin.</p>
</li>
<li>If you are using the box, place your electronics into it and close it with the panel.</li>
</ol>
<p>This model was surprisingly tricky to get just right, hope someone finds a good use for it, if you do please upload a picture.</p>
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Emergency Stop  Mushroom  Push Button

 This is a nice emergency stop mushroom button you can place above any switch, this is both useful for safety and to make your machine look more impressive. There are 3 ways to use this model: You can use the entire model as-is, the box is designed to hold a 170-points solderless min-breadboard with a button in the middle, there's even a hole for the wires going into the box (in the picture you can see the breadboard but there's no button on it because I ran out of buttons and I'm waiting for a bag of buttons to arrive from China). You can incorporate the panel into your design, in this case you don't need to print the box. Or, you can just copy the holes from the panel into your own panel, in this case you don't need the box and the panel, obviously. When fully pressed the button reaches 13.4mm behind the panel (when the panel is 1.4m thick) Safety note: this is just a fancy cover for a momentary push button, it's your responsibility to make sure your machine stops when someone hit the big red stop button. Printing instructions: All the part are printed in PLA (except for the spring that is PETG - but ABS also works) with 1.2mm shell,1.2mm top/bottom and no support. estop box - The walls of the box are thick, but this prints and works just fine when they are hollow, print with no infill. estop panel and estop cover - those are all basically all shell, infill makes no difference. estop pin - use at least 3 shells to make it solid, since it shouldn't be exposed to any sideways pressure it should work just fine with no infill - or - you can be extra careful and use 100% infill, it doesn't matter so much because its small and wont use much material either way, I printed with 10% infill because I wanted to print it together with the button. estop button - this is the button itself, it look much better when you under extrude a bit, I printed mine at 95% flow, if the letters "STOP" on the front are too thin and not visible you need to reduce your flow (or extrusion multiplier) some more. The button should work just fine with no infill (the important bit on the back are built on top of the shells of the "STOP" text and not on a bridge) but I printed with 10% infill to make it stronger. If you have problems with platform adhesion use a raft and not a brim for the button. stop spring - this is the only part I didn't print in PLA because I don't trust PLA to bend without breaking, even in PETG or ABS the spring will break very quickly under sideways forces, the button is designed to never expose the spring to such forces so it should work just fine once assembled. You may need a brim fro this part (in this case cutting it off with scissors is the best way to get the brim off without damaging the spring). Assembly Instructions: First check if the button fits into the cover (with the pins away from the button), if the cover is too tight first make sure you don't have bits of the first layer sticking out in the round part, if that doesn't solve the problem there are two small notches inside the cover to stop the button from wobbling you can file them a bit until the button can travel freely. The cover pins fits into the holes in the panel, it should be a tight fit and require some force to assembly, if it's too tight you can file the holes a bit, if it's too loose a drop of glue on each pin will hold it in place. The next part is the pin, it goes into the hole in the base (bigger flat part inside), the two holes on the top of the pin should point sideways. Now the spring goes into the cover around the pin. And then the button should pressure-fit into the pin. If you are using the box, place your electronics into it and close it with the panel. This model was surprisingly tricky to get just right, hope someone finds a good use for it, if you do please upload a picture. 

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                                            <p>Banded wood&#xA0;texture roller for RPG terrain building and mini basing. This roller is 100mm long and 20mm in diameter. It creates a seamless&#xA0;banded wood pattern.</p>
<p>Best printed on an SLA printer but should work on FDM.</p>
<p>Created in Blender. Texture from 3dtextures.me</p>
<p>Mini for scale only and is not included.</p>
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Banded Wood Texture Roller

 Banded wood texture roller for RPG terrain building and mini basing. This roller is 100mm long and 20mm in diameter. It creates a seamless banded wood pattern. Best printed on an SLA printer but should work on FDM. Created in Blender. Texture from 3dtextures.me Mini for scale only and is not included. 

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                                            <p>Here is a skeleton miniature that i sculpted with Zbrush as a tribute to the old board game HeroQuest. As you can see in the pictures it is fully printable. The version i printed was made with a 0.4 nozzle diameter at 0.1mm resolution on my Wanhao I3 V2.1 stock printer. My result is not perfect since the picture was taken right after the print was finished, i didn&apos;t sand or prime anything. Everyone should be able to print this miniature ;-).</p>
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Skeleton tribute to HeroQuest

 Here is a skeleton miniature that i sculpted with Zbrush as a tribute to the old board game HeroQuest. As you can see in the pictures it is fully printable. The version i printed was made with a 0.4 nozzle diameter at 0.1mm resolution on my Wanhao I3 V2.1 stock printer. My result is not perfect since the picture was taken right after the print was finished, i didn't sand or prime anything. Everyone should be able to print this miniature ;-). 

goat 3d model

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                                            <p>My entry for the MyMiniFactory design contest. This object was made in Tinkercad. <a href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8Qd2f4Fpb6q">https://www.tinkercad.com/things/8Qd2f4Fpb6q</a>&#xA0;A version of the Death Star that is hollow and able to fit a succulent plant.</p>
<p>&#xA0;</p>
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