With the latest version now available, check out the comparison of Marlin 2.0 vs Marlin 1 and learn which one to use for your 3D printer!

Marlin 2 vs Marlin 1: The Differences | All3DP

The FLSUN QQ-S 3D printer is an upgraded version of its predecessor - the QQ. Join us as we dive headfirst into the specs and review all we know about this 3D printer.

FLSUN QQ-S 3D Printer: Review the Specs | All3DP

The Raspberry Pi 4 is a handy SBC that can handle a range of operating systems. Learn how to run Google's Chrome OS on a Raspberry Pi 4.

Raspberry Pi 4 & Chrome OS: All You Need to Know | All3DP

In Blender, it can be difficult to work with scene lighting. We'll show you the different options and when what lighting works best.

Blender: Lighting – Simply Explained | All3DP

Four years after the Fukushima Reactor meltdown, TEPCO is sending a smartphone-carrying 3D printed robot to survey the damage.

Fukushima Reactor Meltdown Site Explored by 3D Printed Robot | All3DP

The Fallout Pip-Boy 3000 watch-face for Motorola Moto 360 Android Smartwatch upgraded with a 3D printed case: Just the right thing to survive the nuclear fallout.

Moto 360 Pip-Boy Watch-Face: 3D Print Your Own | All3DP

A British Design student and director of BuildBrighton Makerspace developed a full-body 3D scanner using 27 low-cost Raspberry Pi computers.

British Makerspace Builds £1,000 Full-Body 3D Scanner with 27 Raspberry Pi | All3DP

3D printing will shape the future... so why keep it to grown ups? Here are 10 simple 3D printer projects you can do with your kids.

3D Printing for Kids: 10 Simple 3D Printer Projects for Children | All3DP

The control of the warp is an everlasting problem of the 3D printing scene. But at least we now can measure and classify it. Here’s how to do it.

Warp: Finally, There’s a Way To Measure it | All3DP

Inspired by movies like Iron Man and Star Wars, researchers from Brigham Young University in Utah have developed a breakthrough in "free-space volumetric display".  This holographic method is capable of creating full-color graphics in thin air using particles in space.  

Sci-Fi Becomes Reality: Researchers Create "Floating 3D Prints" with Free-Space Volumetric Display | All3DP

The comfort of your feet is within reach, with the booming business of 3D printed customized in-soles. If you own a printer, can even make them yourself.

3D Printed Insoles: Personalized Insoles for Superior Comfort | All3DP

Casio has developed a 2.5D printer called Mofrel which can produce high quality plastic "leather", currently on display in Japan.

Mofrel is a Fake Leather 2.5D Printer Made by Casio | All3DP

just print 0,1mm layerheight, no support.

drill a 2,5mm hole when it end up too narrow.

add some fruit and catch the annoying fruitflies!

This fits on dutch peanutbutter jars with 73mm thread, don&apos;t know about other jars.

Fruitfly Jarlid 73mm

just print 0,1mm layerheight, no support.

drill a 2,5mm hole when it end up too narrow.

add some fruit and catch the annoying fruitflies!

This fits on dutch peanutbutter jars with 73mm thread, don't know about other jars.


This is intended to hold all the tokens for 2 players, but it also works well for the exploration / elite set of tokens.

lid by David A. Schimpff

Shadows of Brimstone 2 player carry

This is intended to hold all the tokens for 2 players, but it also works well for the exploration / elite set of tokens.

lid by David A. Schimpff


Praying Monk

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These modular slide/snap-fit wall tiles will quickly add cover and volume to your gaming table, and utilize a special connector system we&apos;ve developed for a full range of dungeon tiles and modular architecture sets we&apos;ll soon be offering for sale (and as exclusive rewards to our Patreon Subscribers).
IMPORTANT PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS - These models are designed to get the most out of your print time/material, plus the connectors may be optimized for this set up as well (still hashing all that out). When you print, do so at 0% infill and 2 shells (I do a .2 layer height) and use a raft if you need to (no supports are required). Also, I tend to stagger mine by about 15 degrees and that helps avoid curling (if that&apos;s an issue for you).
We&apos;ve set up a <a href="https://www.patreon.com/illgottengames" rel="nofollow">Patreon page</a> for anyone who&apos;s interested in helping to fund us so we can keep making free and open sourced games like Pocket-Tactics, Wayfarer Tactics. and others, not to mention the growing catalog of gaming miniatures that you can use for whatever you want! (Psst... we take requests and commissions...)
Enjoy!
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Delving Decor: Basic Ruin Walls (28mm/Heroic scale)

 These modular slide/snap-fit wall tiles will quickly add cover and volume to your gaming table, and utilize a special connector system we've developed for a full range of dungeon tiles and modular architecture sets we'll soon be offering for sale (and as exclusive rewards to our Patreon Subscribers). IMPORTANT PRINTING INSTRUCTIONS - These models are designed to get the most out of your print time/material, plus the connectors may be optimized for this set up as well (still hashing all that out). When you print, do so at 0% infill and 2 shells (I do a .2 layer height) and use a raft if you need to (no supports are required). Also, I tend to stagger mine by about 15 degrees and that helps avoid curling (if that's an issue for you). We've set up a Patreon page for anyone who's interested in helping to fund us so we can keep making free and open sourced games like Pocket-Tactics, Wayfarer Tactics. and others, not to mention the growing catalog of gaming miniatures that you can use for whatever you want! (Psst... we take requests and commissions...) Enjoy! 

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 This helpful replacement allows you to replace any broken oven or microwave knobs so that you&apos;re not left starved!&#xA0;
Simply print it out in any colour(or paint it!) and you&apos;re oven is back to its best!&#xA0;
Even if it isnt broken, why not replace all of them to create a rainbow of knobs to colour code your oven!
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Replacement Knob for ovens and microwaves.

 This helpful replacement allows you to replace any broken oven or microwave knobs so that you're not left starved! Simply print it out in any colour(or paint it!) and you're oven is back to its best! Even if it isnt broken, why not replace all of them to create a rainbow of knobs to colour code your oven! 

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 Downloaded over 20,000 times (on Thingiverse) Fancy Skull 2 says close your eyes and listen to his secrets... His secrets include a 4%+ infill and maybe supports, and perhaps something more sinister... but that&apos;s between you and him. If you want a high res version, you can find it here: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-fancy-skull-2-95906 If you want a planter version,&#xA0;you can find&#xA0;it here: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-105490 Painting tutorial can be found here: instructables.com/id/Creating-and-Painting-an-Ancient-Artifact
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Fancy Skull 2 - FREE! (Low Res)

 Downloaded over 20,000 times (on Thingiverse) Fancy Skull 2 says close your eyes and listen to his secrets... His secrets include a 4%+ infill and maybe supports, and perhaps something more sinister... but that's between you and him. If you want a high res version, you can find it here:https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-fancy-skull-2-95906If you want a planter version, you can find it here:https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-105490Painting tutorial can be found here:instructables.com/id/Creating-and-Painting-an-Ancient-Artifact 

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 Hey,
thats my secound project. Downloaded a lot of other cool cookie cutters and my girlfriend had the idea to make this logo happen. If u use it and bake some cookies please share the pics i&#xB4;m curious how they turn out.
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Assassin Creed Cookie Cutter

 Hey, thats my secound project. Downloaded a lot of other cool cookie cutters and my girlfriend had the idea to make this logo happen. If u use it and bake some cookies please share the pics i´m curious how they turn out. 

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 Guapa (1951), by Gottfred Eickhoff (1902-1982), Bronze, Belonging to the Municipality of Gentofte, Erected in &#xD8;reg&#xE5;rd Park in 1959, Thorvaldsen Museum (Copenhagen, Denmark). Estimated size 1.70m. Made with Memento beta (now ReMake) from AutoDesk. Thanks Pattarrian for the supplementary information.
For more updates, please follow @GeoffreyMarchal on Twitter.
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Guapa

 Guapa (1951), by Gottfred Eickhoff (1902-1982), Bronze, Belonging to the Municipality of Gentofte, Erected in Øregård Park in 1959, Thorvaldsen Museum (Copenhagen, Denmark). Estimated size 1.70m. Made with Memento beta (now ReMake) from AutoDesk. Thanks Pattarrian for the supplementary information. For more updates, please follow @GeoffreyMarchal on Twitter. 

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 Saw a puzzle video of a wooden version of this.&#xA0; I created my own version with filament scraps.
This creates a 72mm cube. It has rounded internal edges and a hole in the main key part (white in the picture) for strength. 
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Interlocking Cube Puzzle

 Saw a puzzle video of a wooden version of this. I created my own version with filament scraps. This creates a 72mm cube. It has rounded internal edges and a hole in the main key part (white in the picture) for strength. 

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 All six equation dog tags from the game we all wait.. Death Stranding.
It took me a while to upload all six of them since i uploaded the first two 8 months ago..
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Equation Dog Tags - Death Stranding

 All six equation dog tags from the game we all wait.. Death Stranding. It took me a while to upload all six of them since i uploaded the first two 8 months ago.. 

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 One of my shower head holders broke so i printed this replacment. Ive atached a picture of the broken holder as well as my finished one.
It works on most shower heads that have tapered fitting at the end of the hose about 20 to 24mm in diameter and a pole thats 22mm in diameter.
You&apos;ll need a M6x45 stainless steel bolt with a butterfly nut to finish this object.
Printed on a RepRap Mono Mendel in red and blue PLA.
&#xA0;
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Shower head replacement

 One of my shower head holders broke so i printed this replacment. Ive atached a picture of the broken holder as well as my finished one. It works on most shower heads that have tapered fitting at the end of the hose about 20 to 24mm in diameter and a pole thats 22mm in diameter. You'll need a M6x45 stainless steel bolt with a butterfly nut to finish this object. Printed on a RepRap Mono Mendel in red and blue PLA. 

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 The MKS Base does not have any exposed pins that are compatible with servos (PWM). So you have to use the x-max pin-out, which is defind as digital pin 2. To do so, we have to change the assigned pins in the firmware. Open up Marlin and go to the &apos;pins_RAMPS_14.h&apos; tab (pins_MKS-13.h redirects you to pins_RAMPS_14_EFB.h redirects you to pins_RAMPS_14.h).
 A quick demonstration can be found here: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fFdSMcWNZM">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fFdSMcWNZM</a>
&#xA0;
&#xA0;What do you need?
- SG90 servo (and the accessoires it came with) - the printed parts (arm + servo mount) - a ready to use configuration of Marlin or your prefered firmware&#xA0;
&#xA0;
Setting up the sensor and servo in Marlin 1.1.0
Search for (without &apos; &apos;): &apos;#define X_MAX_PIN 2&apos; and change it to: &apos;#define X_MAX_PIN -1&apos; then search for &apos;#define SERVO0_PIN 11&apos; and change it to: &apos;#define SERVO0_PIN 2&apos; Go to configuration.h and uncomment the following: &apos;#define NUM_SERVOS 3&apos; (Note: I had to change the line to: &apos;#define NUM_SERVOS 1&apos; otherwise my x-Axis had problems moving - don&apos;t know why, just for your information) Also you have to uncomment (in configuration.h): &apos;#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE&apos; And define the &apos;spots&apos; where the probe should level (I use this values with the large bed): &apos;#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30&apos; &apos;#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 130&apos; &apos;#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30&apos; &apos; #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 240&apos; Define the probes offset from nozzle (especially the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is important and should be accurate to about 0.1mm, I ended up using -9.1, your value may differ): &apos; #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -55&apos; &apos;#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -35&apos; &apos;#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -8&apos; Define the angles which the servo has to &apos;hold&apos; for probing and parking (the last two numerics, the values depend on how you mount the servo arm - use M280-command to find the right values): &apos;#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0&apos; &apos;#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {{0,0}, {0,0}, {80,180}}&apos; Also change: &apos;#define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 5&apos; to Also change: &apos;#define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 20&apos; At last, make sure the following is uncommented, or the servo will &apos;wobble&apos; around while printing: &apos;#define DEACTIVATE_SERVOS_AFTER_MOVE&apos; Upload your new firmware. Plug in the servo. Be carefull, you have to change the servos wires (the plug is s/+/-, the pins on the board are s/-/+). Now you can use the M280-command to test the servo, e.g. M280 P0 S20 (sets servo 0 to position 20). With this command you can also find the correct values for the servo angles. After homing your X and Y-Axis (G28 X0 Y0) and running the auto bed leveling process you cann use G1 Z0 to lower the nozzle onto the bed. If the Nozzle is to far away from your bed, lower the value, if the nozzle crashes into your bed, raise the value.
At last, change the start script in your slicer. Replace: G28 //home all axis with: G28 X0 Y0 //home X and Y-axis G29 //auto level build plate 
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Auto Bed Leveling with SG90 Servo for Tevo Tarantula (or every other 3D printer)

 The MKS Base does not have any exposed pins that are compatible with servos (PWM). So you have to use the x-max pin-out, which is defind as digital pin 2.To do so, we have to change the assigned pins in the firmware. Open up Marlin and go to the 'pins_RAMPS_14.h' tab (pins_MKS-13.h redirects you to pins_RAMPS_14_EFB.h redirects you to pins_RAMPS_14.h). A quick demonstration can be found here:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fFdSMcWNZM What do you need? - SG90 servo (and the accessoires it came with)- the printed parts (arm + servo mount)- a ready to use configuration of Marlin or your prefered firmware Setting up the sensor and servo in Marlin 1.1.0 Search for (without ' '): '#define X_MAX_PIN 2'and change it to: '#define X_MAX_PIN -1'then search for '#define SERVO0_PIN 11'and change it to: '#define SERVO0_PIN 2'Go to configuration.h and uncomment the following: '#define NUM_SERVOS 3'(Note: I had to change the line to: '#define NUM_SERVOS 1' otherwise my x-Axis had problems moving - don't know why, just for your information)Also you have to uncomment (in configuration.h):'#define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_FEATURE'And define the 'spots' where the probe should level (I use this values with the large bed): '#define LEFT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30' '#define RIGHT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 130' '#define FRONT_PROBE_BED_POSITION 30' ' #define BACK_PROBE_BED_POSITION 240'Define the probes offset from nozzle (especially the Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER is important and should be accurate to about 0.1mm, I ended up using -9.1, your value may differ): ' #define X_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -55' '#define Y_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -35' '#define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER -8'Define the angles which the servo has to 'hold' for probing and parking (the last two numerics, the values depend on how you mount the servo arm - use M280-command to find the right values): '#define Z_ENDSTOP_SERVO_NR 0' '#define SERVO_ENDSTOP_ANGLES {{0,0}, {0,0}, {80,180}}'Also change: '#define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 5'toAlso change: '#define Z_RAISE_BEFORE_PROBING 20'At last, make sure the following is uncommented, or the servo will 'wobble' around while printing: '#define DEACTIVATE_SERVOS_AFTER_MOVE'Upload your new firmware. Plug in the servo. Be carefull, you have to change the servos wires (the plug is s/+/-, the pins on the board are s/-/+).Now you can use the M280-command to test the servo, e.g. M280 P0 S20 (sets servo 0 to position 20). With this command you can also find the correct values for the servo angles.After homing your X and Y-Axis (G28 X0 Y0) and running the auto bed leveling process you cann use G1 Z0 to lower the nozzle onto the bed. If the Nozzle is to far away from your bed, lower the value, if the nozzle crashes into your bed, raise the value. At last, change the start script in your slicer. Replace:G28 //home all axiswith: G28 X0 Y0 //home X and Y-axis G29 //auto level build plate 

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 OK i guess technically its wrecking ball,&#xA0; but i always thought hammond was a better name.&#xA0;&#xA0;
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