Markforged announces two 3D printers, the X3 and X5 models, which can produce carbon fiber parts that are 20 times stronger than aluminum.

Markforged Announces New X3 and X5 Carbon Fiber 3D Printers | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Update 11/7: I&apos;ve redesigned the interface arms. There are two versions one with a little more reinforcement than the other. I recommend V3 unless you need the extra articulation the V2 can provide. The pitch adjust body was also modified a bit to give more articulation in the pitch axis.</p>
<p>11/4: After some testing I feel this is in a &quot;release&quot; state. IF YOU DOWNLOADED BEFORE THIS UPDATE THE THREAD TOLERANCES WERE OFF AND I SUGGEST A REDOWNLOAD. Photos are of the first revision, the current revision has been trimmed down on size, specifically on the arm clamp, to use less filament and time printing. I&apos;ve also included a model for a Saitek/Logitech X52 Pro (should work with non-pro as well). I just used 1/8&quot; (3mm) aluminum to make a mounting plate.</p>
<p>For one set you will need to print one of each stl, except the nuts and Interface Arms. For the nuts you will need to print three of them. For the interface arms you will only need to print either the V2 or the V3, not both. I&apos;ve designed it to be symmetrical so it can be used on the left and right arm without needing to mirror anything.</p>
<p>For assembly you can leave the clamp as is and it will work fine. I decided to add some 1/4&quot;(6mm) EVA foam for added grip. when mounting to the chair I would squeeze the clamp with your hand and tighten the nuts.</p>
<p>On both the clamp body and the pitch adjustment arm there are holes for tapping M3 screws as set screws. This is to hold the height of the arm and also keep it from twisting.</p>
<p>The pitch adjust point is keyed to lock into different positions. This was so it could accommodate a large number of mounting angles but also be ridged. The HOTAS Interface Arm has a 40 by 40 mm mounting pattern to mount adapter plates for your chosen flight sticks. I&apos;ve included a model for the Saitek/Logitech X52 Pro and will also make one for the T.Flight 4/X (console flight stick) in a few days.</p>
<p>All files are uploaded in their recommended print orientation and shouldn&apos;t need any supports. I&apos;ve also included the STEP and Fusion360 files so that others can customize the arm clamp (or any other part) to their needs. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet AM8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Matterhackers+Build+PETG+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Matterhackers Build PETG PETG                    </a>

                    Transparent Green
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HOTAS Chair Mount

Update 11/7: I've redesigned the interface arms. There are two versions one with a little more reinforcement than the other. I recommend V3 unless you need the extra articulation the V2 can provide. The pitch adjust body was also modified a bit to give more articulation in the pitch axis.

11/4: After some testing I feel this is in a "release" state. IF YOU DOWNLOADED BEFORE THIS UPDATE THE THREAD TOLERANCES WERE OFF AND I SUGGEST A REDOWNLOAD. Photos are of the first revision, the current revision has been trimmed down on size, specifically on the arm clamp, to use less filament and time printing. I've also included a model for a Saitek/Logitech X52 Pro (should work with non-pro as well). I just used 1/8" (3mm) aluminum to make a mounting plate.

For one set you will need to print one of each stl, except the nuts and Interface Arms. For the nuts you will need to print three of them. For the interface arms you will only need to print either the V2 or the V3, not both. I've designed it to be symmetrical so it can be used on the left and right arm without needing to mirror anything.

For assembly you can leave the clamp as is and it will work fine. I decided to add some 1/4"(6mm) EVA foam for added grip. when mounting to the chair I would squeeze the clamp with your hand and tighten the nuts.

On both the clamp body and the pitch adjustment arm there are holes for tapping M3 screws as set screws. This is to hold the height of the arm and also keep it from twisting.

The pitch adjust point is keyed to lock into different positions. This was so it could accommodate a large number of mounting angles but also be ridged. The HOTAS Interface Arm has a 40 by 40 mm mounting pattern to mount adapter plates for your chosen flight sticks. I've included a model for the Saitek/Logitech X52 Pro and will also make one for the T.Flight 4/X (console flight stick) in a few days.

All files are uploaded in their recommended print orientation and shouldn't need any supports. I've also included the STEP and Fusion360 files so that others can customize the arm clamp (or any other part) to their needs. 



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Saitek X52 Center &quot;Detent&quot;. Strength adjustable by the amounts of magnets.<br>
For X52 pro version, please check if magnet holder fits into thruster cover.</p>
<p>What u need:</p>
<ul><li>Superglue or epoxy</li>
<li>file/sandpaper</li>
<li>bunch of magnets (10mm diameter, 2mm height), found on Amazon:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.com/Deryun-Personalized-Multi-Use-Whiteboard-Refrigerators/dp/B07D9JFX14/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&amp;keywords=magnet+10mm&amp;qid=1604401189&amp;sr=8-9&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.com/Deryun-Personalized-Multi-Use-Whiteboard-Refrigerators/dp/B07D9JFX14/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&amp;keywords=magnet+10mm&amp;qid=1604401189&amp;sr=8-9</a></li>
</ul><p>Assembly:</p>
<ul><li>rough up surfaces of print, throttle cover / housing to give the glue more friction</li>
<li>put a fair amount of pressure when gluing (which can be done with magnets)</li>
<li>start to mount angle brackets first (without magnet glued in)</li>
<li>glue magnet into angle bracket</li>
<li>search center point (joystick properties)</li>
<li>glue in counter magnet &amp; holder into throttle housing </li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Artillery Sidewinder</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.12</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=some+PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        some PLA PLA                    </a>

                    any
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>use 0.12mm layer hight to get the support for magnet holder detached easily.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/0b/94/e1/3b/c8/IMG_2776.jpeg"></p>
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X52 magnetic center detent

Saitek X52 Center "Detent". Strength adjustable by the amounts of magnets.
For X52 pro version, please check if magnet holder fits into thruster cover.

What u need:
- Superglue or epoxy
- file/sandpaper
- bunch of magnets (10mm diameter, 2mm height), found on Amazon:
  https://www.amazon.com/Deryun-Personalized-Multi-Use-Whiteboard-Refrigerators/dp/B07D9JFX14/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=magnet+10mm&qid=1604401189&sr=8-9


Assembly:
- rough up surfaces of print, throttle cover / housing to give the glue more friction
- put a fair amount of pressure when gluing (which can be done with magnets)
- start to mount angle brackets first (without magnet glued in)
- glue magnet into angle bracket
- search center point (joystick properties)
- glue in counter magnet & holder into throttle housing 




<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Led protector and light diffuser for Drone, in particular, this model is designed for Astrox X5 or clone frame using mamba SW16 led stripes.<br>
Instal protector as a clip, it will be fixed after mounting the cap. No need extra zip tie!</p>
<p>print it using transparent filament.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=xingtong+zhi+lian+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        xingtong zhi lian PLA                    </a>

                    transparent
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>print the main piece in vertical with brim</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom custom-section">Custom Section</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/je2R4HeKlrw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
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Led Protector for drone racer

Led protector and light diffuser for Drone, in particular, this model is designed for Astrox X5 or clone frame using mamba SW16 led stripes. 
Instal protector as a clip, it will be fixed after mounting the cap. No need extra zip tie!

print it using transparent filament.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just my modified capacitive sensor bracket for my TronXY X5SA PRO. I drilled new holes above the stock bracket location to give some adjustability to the sensor and found that the bracket blocked the stock fan shroud mounting bolt. I used Design Spark to make a notch in the corner of the bracket so the stock mounts could be used. Worked great on my printer and hopefully works well for you. Please me a comment about how the bracket works for you, so I can improve on my design work and make better products.  </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>TronXY X5SA PRO</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Inland+ABS&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Inland ABS                    </a>

                    Orange
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Inland Orange ABS at 240 degrees printed on its bottom for the main bracket and vertical for the sensor holder.<br>
Print Speed of 40mm/s. </p></div>
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TronXY X5SA PRO 18mm Capacitive sensor bracket

Just my modified capacitive sensor bracket for my TronXY X5SA PRO. I drilled new holes above the stock bracket location to give some adjustability to the sensor and found that the bracket blocked the stock fan shroud mounting bolt. I used Design Spark to make a notch in the corner of the bracket so the stock mounts could be used. Worked great on my printer and hopefully works well for you. Please me a comment about how the bracket works for you, so I can improve on my design work and make better products.  

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Small bracket used on my tronxy X5S to rigifify the frame (made in aluminium profile 2020 or 2040)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>TRONXY X5S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=generic+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        generic PLA                    </a>

                    BLUE
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>to print with no support<br>
print like the 3rd picture</p>
<p>for printing settings depend of your printer :-)</p>
<p>temp = 200-210 &#xB0;C</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>catia v5</strong></p>
                <div><p>catia v5 creation (part desin)<br>
conversion to stl<br>
import to cura for slicing (a plugin for import catia files is working to avoid the stl conversion - go to the cura marketplace)<br>
printing on tronxy X5S </p></div>
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90 DEG BRACKET FOR 2020 PROFILE - M4 SCREWS

Small bracket used on my tronxy X5S to rigifify the frame (made in aluminium profile 2020 or 2040)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Remixed a version of the filament holder mod. It allows you to slide the mod on top of the stock filament holder, use existing screws to hold the mod on.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Tronxy X5SA Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=N%2FA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        N/A PLA                    </a>

                    Copper
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X5SA Pro Filament Holder Mod

Remixed a version of the filament holder mod. It allows you to slide the mod on top of the stock filament holder, use existing screws to hold the mod on.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a WIP (Work-In-Progress) conversion adapter for converting the TronXY X5SA (V-Channel) stock head and backplate with a Micro Swiss Direct Dual Drive Ender 5 kit.  This adapter and backplate uses the original fans (Cold End fan and Blower fan), probe, end stop, and screws that came with the TronXY X5SA.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>TronXY X5SA</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>80%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Inland+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Inland PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I personally used Inland PLA from Micro Center, at 0.16mm height, 80% Infill, &quot;Line&quot; support, and was able to print this part with my 130x120x100 Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini from Micro Center (with glue, without a heated bed).</p></div>
</body></html>

(WIP) TronXY X5SA Micro Swiss Conversion Adapter & Backplate

This is a WIP (Work-In-Progress) conversion adapter for converting the TronXY X5SA (V-Channel) stock head and backplate with a Micro Swiss Direct Dual Drive Ender 5 kit.  This adapter and backplate uses the original fans (Cold End fan and Blower fan), probe, end stop, and screws that came with the TronXY X5SA.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Better mode switch for Saitek Rhino x55 and Logitech Rhino x56. </p>
<p>I needed to be able to quickly change mode on my Saitek Rhino x55 H.O.T.A.S. So I made this bigger knob to replace the small gray knob.</p>
<p>It has even gotten a deeper satisfying sound to it than before.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR-10S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=IDK+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        IDK PLA                    </a>

                    Red
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Logitech mode switcher x55 x56 

Better mode switch for Saitek Rhino x55 and Logitech Rhino x56. 

I needed to be able to quickly change mode on my Saitek Rhino x55 H.O.T.A.S. So I made this bigger knob to replace the small gray knob.

It has even gotten a deeper satisfying sound to it than before.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Modified holder to fit my frame.<br>
Printed in tpu</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic TPU                     </a>
</body></html>

Strech X5 Rush Ultimate Plus holder

Modified holder to fit my frame.
Printed in tpu

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Proudly introducing another &quot;Starfighter&apos;s simple mod&quot;!</p>
<p>The propably most simple direct drive extruder mod for the tronxy x5 series on the planet. :)</p>
<p>Could work for CR-10, Ender and other too?</p>
<p>All you need is: </p>
<ul><li>M4 bolt with washers and nut</li>
<li>Drill</li>
<li>Tools<br>
That&apos;s all!</li>
</ul><p>I ran this setup for a while now, with no issues. Even with the heavy stock stepper.<br>
A pancake stepper is strongly recommended to not add even more unnecessary weight to the carriage...<br>
Now that the bespoke pancake is being fitted, i took some pics to share with everyone.<br>
The PTFE tubing is not 100% straight, but still better than the looong bowden.<br>
My retraction went from ~6.5mm down to ~1.5mm.</p>
<p>Instructions:</p>
<ul><li>Enlarge marked hole to fit M4 screw.</li>
<li>Take apart Extruder and rotate the mount.</li>
<li>Loosen power chain and bend mount back a bit to clear extruder wheel.</li>
<li>Cut PTFE tube to fit between hotend and extruder (do not cut too short, rather try multiple times, shortening step by step)</li>
<li>Tighten extruder with M4 screw and add a piece of belt or equivalent spacer so the drive belt is not crushed.</li>
<li>Mount power chain somehow. I used zip ties.</li>
<li>ENJOY!</li>
</ul><p>PS: Had to Include my clamp for the Z axis rod (8mm), since thingiverse wants a stl. These clamps combined with metal sleeve bearings are a superb upgrade too!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>
</body></html>

Tronxy simple direct drive extruder mod X5SA X5

Proudly introducing another "Starfighter's simple mod"!

The propably most simple direct drive extruder mod for the tronxy x5 series on the planet. :)

Could work for CR-10, Ender and other too?

All you need is: 
- M4 bolt with washers and nut
- Drill
- Tools
That's all!

I ran this setup for a while now, with no issues. Even with the heavy stock stepper.
A pancake stepper is strongly recommended to not add even more unnecessary weight to the carriage...
Now that the bespoke pancake is being fitted, i took some pics to share with everyone.
The PTFE tubing is not 100% straight, but still better than the looong bowden.
My retraction went from ~6.5mm down to ~1.5mm.

Instructions:
- Enlarge marked hole to fit M4 screw.
- Take apart Extruder and rotate the mount.
- Loosen power chain and bend mount back a bit to clear extruder wheel.
- Cut PTFE tube to fit between hotend and extruder (do not cut too short, rather try multiple times, shortening step by step)
- Tighten extruder with M4 screw and add a piece of belt or equivalent spacer so the drive belt is not crushed.
- Mount power chain somehow. I used zip ties.
- ENJOY!

PS: Had to Include my clamp for the Z axis rod (8mm), since thingiverse wants a stl. These clamps combined with metal sleeve bearings are a superb upgrade too!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>E3D V6 hotend adapter for Tronxy X5SA Pro</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Hictop 3dp12</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Amazon+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Amazon PETG                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>This is the very first version, so there&apos;s no airflow optimisation etc. I just wanted to check if it&apos;s possible to install E3D V6 hotend on Tronxy X5SA Pro without changing default fans, sensor and without having to modify any settings. So far, it works. Nozzle location is almost the same as with original hotend. Temperature is much more stable than with original one. The only thing I recommend to do: autotune pids.</p>
<p>
Make sure you have some some M3 and two M4 bolts (M2 if I remeber correctly for blower fan) and check the M4 bolts holding the hotend don&apos;t protrude on the back.
</p><p>
The base  is the only part that requires support - in hotend area. 
</p><p>
I&apos;m running very short of time, I probably won&apos;t be able to improve the design. It would make sense to fit 4020 blower as the original one is a bit weak. Don&apos;t ask for CAD files, I designed it in Blender, STLs is all I can provide.
</p><p>
09/11/2020 I have added modified version for 4020 blower fan. I have printed it, it looks ok, just don&apos;t have time to test it before weekend.
</p><p>
14/11/20 Tested version with 4020 fan, works pretty well and just fits without affecting any movement.</p></div>
</body></html>

Tronxy X5SA PRO E3D V6 holder

E3D V6 hotend adapter for Tronxy X5SA Pro

<p>ABL holder<br>
M18 Capcitive type sensor<br>
NPN NO 6V to 36V 10mm 300mA</p>


Tronxy X5SA M18 Capacitive ABL holder

ABL holder
M18 Capcitive type sensor
NPN NO 6V to 36V 10mm 300mA


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