A new 3D models generator service promises extraction of characters from videos. Currently, it’s limited to animations.

3D Models Extracted From Video | All3DP

Ah, video game statues! Without them, your desk would look so empty. We’ve assembled the most adorable video game statues for 3D printing.

10 Most Amazing Video Game Characters to 3D Print | All3DP

Ever heard of Blender's camera tracking? Follow along as we track objects in a video, create a 3D scene, and add models as if they were in the video itself!

Blender Camera Tracking Tutorial: 6 Easy Steps | All3DP

Think grandma could use a 3D Printer? This episode from YouTube famous Fine Brothers shows how "Elders React to 3D Printing."

Awesome Video: Elders React to 3D Printers | All3DP

Now you can 3D print custom-made video game characters, 3D printing opens up whole new possibilities for home entertainment.

How to 3D Print Video Game Characters | All3DP

Most mistakes in the video footage occur during the shoot. GoPro Accessories from a 3D printer are very useful here.

GoPro: Better video shoots thanks to 3D printers

The CEL Robox is a micro-manufacturing platform from the UK. In this ALL3DP video, Thomas Sanladerer takes us through unboxing and setup.

CEL Robox 3D Printer: Unboxing & Setup (VIDEO) | All3DP

From cool personal projects to newsworthy innovations, this list of 3D printing videos is sure to impress. Dive into these crowd-pleasers, each combining 3D printing power with video editing expertise.

3D Printer Video: 10 Most Impressive Videos | All3DP

Want to capture all 360 degrees of an object with your camera? Adafruit has recently shared a 3D printing project that shows you how to create an inexpensive turntable made for photographers and videographers. 

[Project] 3D Printed Motorized Turntable for Photo & Video | All3DP

Last Friday, Disney released "Star Wars: Jedi Challenges", an augmented reality game with equipment developed in cooperation with Lenovo.

Disney Releases Star Wars Augmented Reality Video Game | All3DP

VR technology just keeps getting better and better. The latest device to hit the market is the Vuze+ VR camera, with 360 degree 4K video in three dimensions!

Vuze+ Shoots 360 Degree 4K Video in 3D | All3DP

An impressive video called "Centriphone" left many viewers wondering how the creator was able to capture the incredible effect. Here’s how he did it. 

Make Your Own "Centriphone" iPhone Bullet Time Video | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Game Boy Macro - MK2</h3>
<p>This design is based on the designs of the original creator of most of the faceplates available here on thingiverse and with his blessing:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/gb9k/GameboyMacro">https://github.com/gb9k/GameboyMacro</a></p>
<h3>Additional info and source files</h3>
<p>Link to versioned STL&apos;s and f3d file on my Github repository: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/harryurban/GameboyMacroMK2">https://github.com/harryurban/GameboyMacroMK2</a></p>
<h3>Background and Goals</h3>
<p>I had a particular idea that I wanted to realise. </p>
<ul><li>Game Boy logo (am a big fan boy)</li>
<li>Smooth transitions from all button indents to the top face (edge fillets)</li>
<li>A recessed frame for the top screen glass screen as a cover for the bottom display, as it is unprotected without the touch screen</li>
<li>Full screen sized cutout in order to accomodate the entire display</li>
<li><code>.2 mm</code> / <code>2 layers</code> at the top right led &quot;hole&quot; -  to still see the light, but not fear water or debris getting in</li>
</ul><p>I use an R4 card running YSMenu and play my private copies with GBARunner2 and Gameyob.</p>
<h3>How to show appreciation</h3>
<p>Because of the positive feedback I got I decided to open source it, and this is a lot of additional work.</p>
<p>If you want to show appreciation for my work please consider giving my github repo a star. This would help me a lot.</p>
<p>If you can contribute or you want to, feel free to do it at: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/harryurban">Buy me a coffee! &#x2615;</a></p>
<p>I will be really thankful for anything even if it is a coffee or just a kind comment towards my work, because that helps me a lot. Be careful and donate just if it is within your possibilities, because there is no refund system. And remember that you don&apos;t need to donate, it is just a free choice for you. Thank you!</p>
<h3>Model in action</h3>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://instagram.com/3dirtyharry">My IG</a>  with a <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CGta5NZDbTE">video from the console in action</a>   running The Legend of Zelda - A link to the past, for Game Boy Advance.</p>
<h3>Future plans</h3>
<ul><li>Want to bring a speaker to the front</li>
<li>I am experimenting with TPU for a nice texture</li>
<li>Fine tuning some dimensions</li>
<li>Adding more structure to the back of led hole as it shines through when playing in total darkness</li>
<li>Even more structural integrity for the screw holes</li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Janbex+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Janbex PLA                    </a>

                    White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I only made minor changes to the original back plate by adding some structures for the screw holes to have more connection to the flat layer, so printing instructions are the same to all the other back plates available on this platform.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/30/90/9a/5d/a3/Screenshot_2020-11-04_at_16.29.05.png"></p>
</body></html>

Game Boy Macro MK2 Faceplate (DS Lite) 4 buttons

# Game Boy Macro - MK2
This design is based on the designs of the original creator of most of the faceplates available here on thingiverse and with his blessing:
https://github.com/gb9k/GameboyMacro

# Additional info and source files
Link to versioned STL's and f3d file on my Github repository: https://github.com/harryurban/GameboyMacroMK2

# Background and Goals

I had a particular idea that I wanted to realise. 

- Game Boy logo (am a big fan boy)
- Smooth transitions from all button indents to the top face (edge fillets)
- A recessed frame for the top screen glass screen as a cover for the bottom display, as it is unprotected without the touch screen
- Full screen sized cutout in order to accomodate the entire display
- `.2 mm` / `2 layers` at the top right led "hole" -  to still see the light, but not fear water or debris getting in

I use an R4 card running YSMenu and play my private copies with GBARunner2 and Gameyob.

# How to show appreciation
Because of the positive feedback I got I decided to open source it, and this is a lot of additional work.

If you want to show appreciation for my work please consider giving my github repo a star. This would help me a lot.

If you can contribute or you want to, feel free to do it at: [Buy me a coffee! ☕](https://www.buymeacoffee.com/harryurban)

I will be really thankful for anything even if it is a coffee or just a kind comment towards my work, because that helps me a lot. Be careful and donate just if it is within your possibilities, because there is no refund system. And remember that you don't need to donate, it is just a free choice for you. Thank you!


# Model in action
[My IG](https://instagram.com/3dirtyharry)  with a [video from the console in action](https://www.instagram.com/p/CGta5NZDbTE)   running The Legend of Zelda - A link to the past, for Game Boy Advance.

# Future plans
- Want to bring a speaker to the front
- I am experimenting with TPU for a nice texture
- Fine tuning some dimensions
- Adding more structure to the back of led hole as it shines through when playing in total darkness
- Even more structural integrity for the screw holes



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>MK Scorpion stencil 3</p></div>
</body></html>

MK Scorpion stencil 3

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Stray</p></div>
</body></html>

Stray stencil

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>please , adjust the rigth flow , there is not enogh tolerance gap ,Ajusta bien el flujo de plastico porque las distancias estan justasn , mejora con respecto al anterior , los nudos quedan ocultos</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

iphone5 pendant holder

please , adjust the rigth flow , there is not enogh tolerance gap ,Ajusta bien el flujo de plastico porque las distancias estan justasn , mejora con respecto al anterior , los nudos quedan ocultos

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>A stand for the Ipod Video/5G/5.5G, printed on a Ender 3. for FreeCad file PM me.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=REAL+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        REAL PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used REAL black PLA with 20% cubic infill and a 40mm/s print speed. for any further questions PM me</p></div>
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Ipod Video 5th / 5.5th gen stand

A stand for the Ipod Video/5G/5.5G, printed on a Ender 3. for FreeCad file PM me.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just a simpler remix of the stick created by Akaki, I think it is a bit easier to print and less material expensive. The downside of this design is that you can only use the springiness of the stick itself to feel the center SO MAKE IT THE LIGHTER YOU CAN GO.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">Prusa Clone</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0-10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Geeetech+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Geeetech PLA                    </a>

                    Grey - Blue
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Printed everything with<br>
0.4 mm nozzle<br>
0.45 mm line width<br>
0.2 mm layer heigth<br>
3 perimeters<br>
10% grid infill for thumbstick grip and 0% for the rest</p>
<p>The lighter you print and the better is to use because it centers the stick more easily, so I would try also 2 perimeters at least for the upper grip.<br>
I designed the connector of the length I wanted but if you want you can adjust it in Meshmixer or in Fusion360 (also some slicing software as Ideamaker let you cut your object the size you want).<br>
If you make the connector 2/3 cm shorter it would probably center better on the stick but you would have less angle to play with.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<div><p>Everything should fit but the hole size as ever is a coin flip. </p>
<p>I designed it 4 mm hole diameter and 3.8 the cylinder it goes in from the connector. </p>
<p>If does not fit, just take a 3.5/4 mm drillbit and make it larger (not too much should fit tight).</p>
<p>If you want to protect more the stick, just sand paper a bit the thumbstick grip or put some<br>
black tape around the stick before inserting the adapter.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<div><p>Just took the thumbstick grip made a cylinder with a hole and designed the simple connector between lower grip and upper grip (which instead is the original).</p></div>
</body></html>

Joystick HOTAS for Xbox 360 Controller

Just a simpler remix of the stick created by Akaki, I think it is a bit easier to print and less material expensive. The downside of this design is that you can only use the springiness of the stick itself to feel the center SO MAKE IT THE LIGHTER YOU CAN GO.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>If you played SOMA and then decided you would like an offshoot of the WAU to grow through your own house/workplace/submarine habitat (I mean, who wouldn&apos;t), grab these files and print some out.</p>
<p>Good places to install the WAU include facility walls, electronics, heavy machinery, and your body. It&apos;s not picky, really.</p>
<p>The current model is based on the structure gel encrustations that the WAU uses to repair electronics. Maybe I&apos;ll add one of the &quot;flowers&quot; if I feel ambitious later.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Qidi Tech X-one 2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.1 mm</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Inland+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Inland PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Print the main body in black or dark gray, and the lens in white, light blue, or transparent. Then wedge the lens up into the body (glue optional). Add blue LEDs for the full effect.</p>
<p>I recommend line support with roof.</p></div>
</body></html>

The WAU (malicious nanotech AI from SOMA)

If you played SOMA and then decided you would like an offshoot of the WAU to grow through your own house/workplace/submarine habitat (I mean, who wouldn't), grab these files and print some out.

Good places to install the WAU include facility walls, electronics, heavy machinery, and your body. It's not picky, really.

The current model is based on the structure gel encrustations that the WAU uses to repair electronics. Maybe I'll add one of the "flowers" if I feel ambitious later.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>A sketch of the Hopes Peak school seal from Danganronpa. I have two versions here, one which is a button that can be resized and placed on rings (which is what my wife wanted) and one which is just the seal sketched out, so that you could add it to whatever you wish. I used Fusion 360 and this is my first design. No special print needs, as there aren&apos;t any overhangs. Just use your normal print settings.</p>
<p>Sorry if anything is weird. This was really just more of me playing around with some stuff in Fusion360.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Artillery Genius</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polylite+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polylite PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Print with whatever normal settings you use. Nothing special needed. I advised being careful with the separate print, as each part is it&apos;s own piece and might have issues adhering if too small.</p></div>
</body></html>

Hopes Peak Academy student seal

A sketch of the Hopes Peak school seal from Danganronpa. I have two versions here, one which is a button that can be resized and placed on rings (which is what my wife wanted) and one which is just the seal sketched out, so that you could add it to whatever you wish. I used Fusion 360 and this is my first design. No special print needs, as there aren't any overhangs. Just use your normal print settings.

Sorry if anything is weird. This was really just more of me playing around with some stuff in Fusion360.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>=== Update 2010/10/21 ===</p>
<ol><li>
<p>I add the front plate with no button for anyone who want to remix their own A/B position. The micro switch that i use is 6.6x6.6 mm (it will perfectly fit)</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Add front case V2 (tweak A/B button)</p>
</li>
<li>Add stand (can charge while place on stand)</li>
</ol><p>======================<br>
I design this with inspiration from Game Gear mini.</p>
<p>can view complete one on my channel:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/QBY8S2vGxQ8">https://youtu.be/QBY8S2vGxQ8</a></p>
<p>Actually it just 1.3 inch game HAT that add L and R button and sound.<br>
button on 1.3 inch HAT i use:</p>
<p>Button                     GPIO<br>
Left    ------------------ 5<br>
Up     ------------------ 6<br>
Select ----------------- 13<br>
Down ------------------ 19<br>
Right  ------------------ 26<br>
Start  ------------------  21<br>
B       ------------------  20<br>
A        ------------------ 16<br>
L        ------------------ 7<br>
R        ------------------ 23</p>
<p>for sound I use pwm 18</p>
<p>Parts list:</p>
<ol><li>
<p>Raspberry Pi Zero</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>1.3 inch IPS LCD 240x240<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32901527282.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32901527282.html</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p>round switch<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000248442771.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000248442771.html</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p>mini speaker<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32700816869.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32700816869.html</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p>DIP switch with cap (I love this button it easy to use and give nice feeling while push)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32839097686.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32839097686.html</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Lipo battery number 603048 (for mine is 750 mAh but some store said 900 mAh but after fully discharge it around 700-800 mAh)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33017269015.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33017269015.html</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p>TP4056 Lithium Battery Charger Module<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32930640893.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32930640893.html</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p>mini amplifier<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32306994288.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32306994288.html</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p>SMD resister 270ohm and capacitor 33NP (I find around here)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://yourcee.aliexpress.com/store/1089303">https://yourcee.aliexpress.com/store/1089303</a></p>
</li>
<li>on/off switch<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000938867866.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000938867866.html</a></li>
</ol><p>mini guide: (I too lazy to make tutorial)<br>
Battery place between Pizero and HAT. mini amplifier can place anywhere there still have space for this thin module.</p>
<p>other guide for 1.3 inch HAT:<br>
can found over here (I really love his tutorial it very easy to understand)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instructables.com/13-Inches-RetroPie-Zero/">https://www.instructables.com/13-Inches-RetroPie-Zero/</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>QIDI</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=ESUN+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        ESUN PLA                    </a>

                    Silver
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Gameboy Advance mini

=== Update 2010/10/21 ===
1. I add the front plate with no button for anyone who want to remix their own A/B position. The micro switch that i use is 6.6x6.6 mm (it will perfectly fit)

2. Add front case V2 (tweak A/B button)

3. Add stand (can charge while place on stand)

======================
I design this with inspiration from Game Gear mini.

can view complete one on my channel:
https://youtu.be/QBY8S2vGxQ8

Actually it just 1.3 inch game HAT that add L and R button and sound.
button on 1.3 inch HAT i use:

Button                     GPIO
Left    ------------------ 5
Up     ------------------ 6
Select ----------------- 13
Down ------------------ 19
Right  ------------------ 26
Start  ------------------  21
B       ------------------  20
A        ------------------ 16
L        ------------------ 7
R        ------------------ 23

for sound I use pwm 18

Parts list:
1. Raspberry Pi Zero

2. 1.3 inch IPS LCD 240x240
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32901527282.html

3. round switch
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000248442771.html

4. mini speaker
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32700816869.html

5. DIP switch with cap (I love this button it easy to use and give nice feeling while push)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32839097686.html

6. Lipo battery number 603048 (for mine is 750 mAh but some store said 900 mAh but after fully discharge it around 700-800 mAh)
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33017269015.html

7. TP4056 Lithium Battery Charger Module
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32930640893.html

8. mini amplifier
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32306994288.html

9. SMD resister 270ohm and capacitor 33NP (I find around here)
https://yourcee.aliexpress.com/store/1089303

10. on/off switch
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000938867866.html

mini guide: (I too lazy to make tutorial)
Battery place between Pizero and HAT. mini amplifier can place anywhere there still have space for this thin module.


other guide for 1.3 inch HAT:
can found over here (I really love his tutorial it very easy to understand)
https://www.instructables.com/13-Inches-RetroPie-Zero/

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