To promote their personal computing revolution, Linux PC maker System76 celebrated this year's Fourth of July with a Guy Tux 3D printed mask.

Guy Tux: System76 Takes Back Control with 3D Printed Mask | All3DP

"The New Collar Workforce" is a new book by Sarah Boisvert which suggests that, in order to avoid a shortage of skilled workers, we should be training people to be ready for the new age in manufacturing.

Book "New Collar Workforce" Prepares Us for the New Age of Manufacturing | All3DP

Swedish maker and YouTuber Simon Sörensen has shared a video detailing how to create and 3D print stencils that can be used to spray paint custom designs onto your clothing.

[Project] Create a Custom T-Shirt with 3D Printed Stencils | All3DP

Tilt-Shift Adapters for DSLR cameras are great, but expensive. Why not use 3D Printed Camera Gear? Here’s how.

3D Printed Camera Gear: Tilt-Shift Adapters | All3DP

Vous cherchez les meilleurs réglages pour utiliser Cura avec votre Ender 3 (Pro/V2) ? Nous avons la configuration idéale pour des impressions parfaites.

Cura & Ender 3 (Pro/V2) : les meilleurs profils et réglages | All3DP

At NYU School of Medicine, a collaborative team are working on 3D printing multi-colored models of prostate cancer for pre-surgical planning.

3D Printing Prostate Cancer Models for Surgical Planning | All3DP

Want to explore the great outdoors in bad weather with your drone? Here is a list of waterproof drones for beginners and professionals.

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Do you want to pimp your Tevo Tarantula 3D printer? Check out the 26 best Tevo Tarantula upgrades, mods, and improvements.

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To find non-surgical interventions for mitral regurgitation, Materialise and Henry Ford Health Systems bring their workflow to a wider market.

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If you find that you're deterred from using a 3D printer because your designs require subtractive techniques, Zmorph might have the ideal solution.

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Engineer Andrew Lee has developed Nod Bang, a headphone system that triggers audio and sets tempo with a nod of the head.

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By working with 3D printing technologies, Proterra has been able to save costs and speed up the production of its zero-emission battery-powered buses. Proterra is looking to speed up its zero-emission bus mission by working with 3D printed parts. The Silicon Valley start-up focuses on solving public transport by developing electric buses that run without […]

Proterra Partners With Carbon to 3D Print Emission-Friendly Bus Fleet | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link ">
 I decided to finish up this project and as soon as I get a good idea about the inner parts I will add them as a new project, so feel free to use the outer parts already.
Steampunk Gear Cutters for cookie dough, polymer clay, paper clay, fondant, biscuit and more. Ideal for wedding cakes, christmas cookies, selfmade decor like hat accessoires or necklaces for steampunk style. See Instructions for details on the versions and Print Profiles/Setup. Please only use the thingies non-commercially.
If you love my design please Comment, Collect and/or Like.
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Gear Cookie Cutter Christmas Halloween Steampunk

 I decided to finish up this project and as soon as I get a good idea about the inner parts I will add them as a new project, so feel free to use the outer parts already. Steampunk Gear Cutters for cookie dough, polymer clay, paper clay, fondant, biscuit and more. Ideal for wedding cakes, christmas cookies, selfmade decor like hat accessoires or necklaces for steampunk style.See Instructions for details on the versions and Print Profiles/Setup.Please only use the thingies non-commercially. If you love my design please Comment, Collect and/or Like. 

Corrected Version of IRobertl&apos;s Feeder V2 so it can actually work.This cannot be used on second stock feeder place due to collision with the Case I recommend 70% Infill 1.6mm Shell thickness and 1.2 mm Bottom/Top Thickness. Needed supports are included. UPDATE: Case V3.1 .1 -easier material change -optimized filament flow

UM2Feeder V3.1.1

Corrected Version of IRobertl's Feeder V2 so it can actually work.This cannot be used on second stock feeder place due to collision with the CaseI recommend 70% Infill 1.6mm Shell thickness and 1.2 mm Bottom/Top Thickness.Needed supports are included.UPDATE: Case V3.1 .1-easier material change-optimized filament flow


This is my improved Design of my old and basic Spoolholder Design. Now it is featuring: &#xA0;-a more sturdy design&#xA0; &#xA0;- Ballbearings for the Spools (recommended but not absolutely needed to be usable) &#xA0;-Fanholder for a 80mm Fan for the Feeder Stepper Motor/s (The Fanholder is supposed to be glued in or welded &#xA0;- &#xA0;Material feeding in the natural curvature of the filament &#xA0;- Holders for the Motor in case you want to disassemble the feeder &#xA0;- Spool Covers so that the filament cannot unspool that far by itself and get off the &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; spool Recommended: 3.2mm&#xA0;Shell and 3mm Top/Bottom thickness with 24% infill for the Spoolholder. Rest with 1.2mm Shell and 1.2mm Top/bottom thickness and 24% infill Printlist for the complete Set 1xSpoolholder 1xFeederholder 2xSpacer big 4xSpacer small 1x Feeder fix 2x Spool fix 1x Fanholder 2x Spool Covers And as always.... Constructed for PLA print.... should be print and usable with ABS too though. Update 1: Added Spool Covers&#xA0;

Spool and Feederholder

This is my improved Design of my old and basic Spoolholder Design.Now it is featuring: -a more sturdy design  - Ballbearings for the Spools (recommended but not absolutely needed to be usable) -Fanholder for a 80mm Fan for the Feeder Stepper Motor/s (The Fanholder is supposed to be glued in or welded -  Material feeding in the natural curvature of the filament - Holders for the Motor in case you want to disassemble the feeder - Spool Covers so that the filament cannot unspool that far by itself and get off the         spoolRecommended:3.2mm Shell and 3mm Top/Bottom thickness with 24% infill for the Spoolholder.Rest with 1.2mm Shell and 1.2mm Top/bottom thickness and 24% infillPrintlist for the complete Set1xSpoolholder1xFeederholder2xSpacer big4xSpacer small1x Feeder fix2x Spool fix1x Fanholder2x Spool CoversAnd as always.... Constructed for PLA print.... should be print and usable with ABS too though.Update 1: Added Spool Covers 


I made this little gift box for a caravan enthusiast.

The small parts were printed on a &#x201E;Ultimaker 2&#x201D; with a 0.25mm nozzle. 
 I used clear abs filament and and gave them a short acetone bath.

Box footprint: 10x10cm

caravan gift box

I made this little gift box for a caravan enthusiast.

The small parts were printed on a „Ultimaker 2” with a 0.25mm nozzle.
 I used clear abs filament and and gave them a short acetone bath.

Box footprint: 10x10cm


( Work In Progress ) 
Want to upgrade your 2go into a 2go+? 
With this printable housing and the inner parts from a UM2+ feeder you can do just that. 
To assemble this feeder you can buy the UM2+ upgrade kit ( <a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/products/extrusion-upgrade-kit" rel="external">https://ultimaker.com/en/products/extrusion-upgrade-kit</a> ) and upgrade you&apos;re whole UM2go to a UM2go+, then remove the feeder parts from the feeder in the + kit and install them into this printed housing. 
Or you can just buy the parts listed below from you&apos;re local Ultimaker Supplier. 
Its designed to fit into the 2go carry case but it is a tight fit and may squish a little.

Sadly 2 parts require support But I&apos;m trying to fix that. Also the feeder is only held on by 3 of the stepper drive screws, I&apos;m working on that 2. 
the main body has a tower to make sure the shaft for the Feeder Lever doesn&apos;t overheat on the final bit.

To get this working on the default firmware you will need to reverse the stepper motor wires. you can push in the tabs on the plugs and pull the wires out to reverse them. 
you will also need to change the E steps from 282 to 738 if you use the original feeder and 369 if you use the 2+ feeder. 
This can be changed in Tinkergnome&apos;s firmware linked below. 
If you use the original feeder you will need to cut the length of the stepper shaft down so it will fit from 22mm to 13mm. this is the same length of the 2+ stepper shaft.

To complete your UM2go+ upgrade I would highly recommend getting the heated bed upgrade from the Gr5store ( <a href="http://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um/heated-bed-kit-for-um2go.html" rel="external">http://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um/heated-bed-kit-for-um2go.html</a> ) to get full material capabilities and also Tinkergnome&apos;s firmware for UM2go ( <a href="https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases" rel="external">https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases</a> ) which adds the heated bed in the firmware and allows you to adjust the feeder E steps.

UM2go+ Feeder

( Work In Progress )
Want to upgrade your 2go into a 2go+?
With this printable housing and the inner parts from a UM2+ feeder you can do just that.
To assemble this feeder you can buy the UM2+ upgrade kit ( https://ultimaker.com/en/products/extrusion-upgrade-kit ) and upgrade you're whole UM2go to a UM2go+, then remove the feeder parts from the feeder in the + kit and install them into this printed housing.
Or you can just buy the parts listed below from you're local Ultimaker Supplier.
Its designed to fit into the 2go carry case but it is a tight fit and may squish a little.

Sadly 2 parts require support But I'm trying to fix that. Also the feeder is only held on by 3 of the stepper drive screws, I'm working on that 2.
the main body has a tower to make sure the shaft for the Feeder Lever doesn't overheat on the final bit.

To get this working on the default firmware you will need to reverse the stepper motor wires. you can push in the tabs on the plugs and pull the wires out to reverse them.
you will also need to change the E steps from 282 to 738 if you use the original feeder and 369 if you use the 2+ feeder.
This can be changed in Tinkergnome's firmware linked below.
If you use the original feeder you will need to cut the length of the stepper shaft down so it will fit from 22mm to 13mm. this is the same length of the 2+ stepper shaft.

To complete your UM2go+ upgrade I would highly recommend getting the heated bed upgrade from the Gr5store ( http://thegr5store.com/store/index.php/um/heated-bed-kit-for-um2go.html ) to get full material capabilities and also Tinkergnome's firmware for UM2go ( https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases ) which adds the heated bed in the firmware and allows you to adjust the feeder E steps.


<h2>Use</h2>

Set start temp at the desired temperature and stop temperature to 1 degree above that. (Picture shows set at 45 degrees with current temp at 25 degrees. 
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-C-99-C-DC-12V-Intelligent-Digital-Led-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-/321723841989" rel="external">http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-C-99-C-DC-12V-Intelligent-Digital-Led-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-/321723841989</a>

Temp Controlled Build Enclosure for UM2

Use

Set start temp at the desired temperature and stop temperature to 1 degree above that. (Picture shows set at 45 degrees with current temp at 25 degrees.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/9-C-99-C-DC-12V-Intelligent-Digital-Led-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-/321723841989


GABARIT DE REGLAGE PARALLELISME UM2

This is currently printing so I will keep you updated when its complete. just a few things, the hangar and baseplate are being printed in CPE+ and the bushings in TPU 95A to allow them to flex. Being printed on an ultimaker 2+

longboard Truck

This is currently printing so I will keep you updated when its complete. just a few things, the hangar and baseplate are being printed in CPE+ and the bushings in TPU 95A to allow them to flex. Being printed on an ultimaker 2+


The hinges are in two pieces, the parts with the screw holes connect 
to the door and slide onto the printer clips. After printing the hinges,
 melt or glue a piece of metal rod or a finishing nail down the center 
to the hinge post for added strength. 

Clip the hinges to the front / side of the printer and adjust their 
position to your liking. Make sure the door will clear the knob and 
display, and opens fully. Mark where you will need to drill in four 
holes in the door for screws. Screw the hinges to the door and clip on 
the handle.

Door hinges and handle for UM2

The hinges are in two pieces, the parts with the screw holes connect 
to the door and slide onto the printer clips. After printing the hinges,
 melt or glue a piece of metal rod or a finishing nail down the center 
to the hinge post for added strength.  

Clip the hinges to the front / side of the printer and adjust their 
position to your liking.  Make sure the door will clear the knob and 
display, and opens fully.  Mark where you will need to drill in four 
holes in the door for screws.  Screw the hinges to the door and clip on 
the handle.  


This is a Hood made from 2 mm Acrylic sheet with the printed parts. 
The hood sits on the top surface and locates on the recessed corners of the top edges on the Ultimaker, using two small magnets on the front to prevent tipping. Designed to sit within the top edge allowing my dovetail mounting system to still be used on the top edges. 
The Hood overhangs the back slightly to allow the cable and bowden tube access and minimise drafts and heat loss, it is also suitable for those with feeders on both sides. 
The top hinges open to allow easy access and can be positioned in one of several locations. 
At the moment I am using Duct tape to hinge the 3 lid pieces together as this gives full flexibility and I have not yet decided on a camera mount or the type of knob etc for the lid.

2mm thick acrylic sheet can be obtained from a local DIY centre and can be easily scored and snapped with a suitable tool and a straight edge. There was no machining of the acrylic sheets other than drilling the mounting holes, and a little filing to finish. 
The mounting holes on the plastic parts were tapped M3.

Update 29th April 2017 
Parts added that can be used to make the hood from 3mm sheet. 
these all have the suffex of 3mmA. 
The parts given all make one side , (the left side as you look at it) you will need to mirror the two pieces that make the bottom front corner, the bottom back corner and the top back corner. 
I have not built them to check as I don&apos;t have 3mm sheet. 
You will also need to adjust the width of the back piece, the top and the other pieces that cross from the two sides, (this should be by 2mm from the dimensions given)

UM2 Hood (Simple to make)

This is a Hood made from 2 mm Acrylic sheet with the printed parts.
The hood sits on the top surface and locates on the recessed corners of the top edges on the Ultimaker, using two small magnets on the front to prevent tipping. Designed to sit within the top edge allowing my dovetail mounting system to still be used on the top edges.
The Hood overhangs the back slightly to allow the cable and bowden tube access and minimise drafts and heat loss, it is also suitable for those with feeders on both sides.
The top hinges open to allow easy access and can be positioned in one of several locations.
At the moment I am using Duct tape to hinge the 3 lid pieces together as this gives full flexibility and I have not yet decided on a camera mount or the type of knob etc for the lid.

2mm thick acrylic sheet can be obtained from a local DIY centre and can be easily scored and snapped with a suitable tool and a straight edge. There was no machining of the acrylic sheets other than drilling the mounting holes, and a little filing to finish.
The mounting holes on the plastic parts were tapped M3.

Update 29th April 2017
Parts added that can be used to make the hood from 3mm sheet.
these all have the suffex of 3mmA. 
The parts given all make one side , (the left side as you look at it) you will need to mirror the two pieces that make the bottom front corner, the bottom back corner and the top back corner.
I have not built them to check as I don't have 3mm sheet.
You will also need to adjust the width of the back piece, the top and the other pieces that cross from the two sides, (this should be by 2mm from the dimensions given)


Based on <a href="http://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-knob--2&#xFEFF;" rel="external">http://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-knob--2&#xFEFF;</a>I redesinged fillets a bit and made it a little smaller in diameter because original design turned out to turn a bit strong, at least in my Ultimaker 2.Printed with &quot;Innofil Ice Blue&quot; transparent filament. For slicing I used Simplify3D to be able to make solid infills concentric. That way the glow effect looks much nicer than with rectilinear infill. Other settings so that there is no infill in the part itself. To get out the original knob I used a small screw driver, there is a small hole on the inner side of the knob surrounding, see picture. Then push the knob out carefully. Push it a bit, then turn it 180 degrees so it does not jam until it comes out.

Ultimaker 2 Replacement Knob

Based on http://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-knob--2﻿I redesinged fillets a bit and made it a little smaller in diameter because original design turned out to turn a bit strong, at least in my Ultimaker 2.Printed with "Innofil Ice Blue" transparent filament.For slicing I used Simplify3D to be able to make solid infills concentric. That way the glow effect looks much nicer than with rectilinear infill.Other settings so that there is no infill in the part itself. To get out the original knob I used a small screw driver, there is a small hole on the inner side of the knob surrounding, see picture.Then push the knob out carefully. Push it a bit, then turn it 180 degrees so it does not jam until it comes out.


!!! Project finished. Occasionally there will be minor improvements, but no major design changes !!!&#x2022; This three -part object is one component of my One Man - *Co.Me.Do.ONE - project. CP-v3 (Co.Me.Do. - Part No: 3). To use this printable object on Ultimaker 2, no additional components are required. The assembly and use, are self-explanatory. &#x2022; Information regarding enhancements and bug fixes you will find in the &quot;Comment&quot; section. Photos with the already assembled object does not show the latest design. &#x2022; Again and again: My work for you lives solely by your feedback. If something is wrong or useless in my designs, I need more information from you so that I can ever change anything. Suggestions to improve or simplify my designs and descriptions are highly desirable. So if you use my designs and parts thereof, please take a few moments to convey a little feedback.

Ultimaker 2 Bowden Fix

!!! Project finished. Occasionally there will be minor improvements, but no major design changes !!!• This three -part object is one component of my One Man - *Co.Me.Do.ONE - project. CP-v3 (Co.Me.Do. - Part No: 3). To use this printable object on Ultimaker 2, no additional components are required. The assembly and use, are self-explanatory.  • Information regarding enhancements and bug fixes you will find in the "Comment" section. Photos with the already assembled object does not show the latest design.• Again and again: My work for you lives solely by your feedback. If something is wrong or useless in my designs, I need more information from you so that I can ever change anything. Suggestions to improve or simplify my designs and descriptions are highly desirable. So if you use my designs and parts thereof, please take a few moments to convey a little feedback.


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