The RepRap project has been the subject of an edit war on Wikipedia. Here's the official history, as described by core members of the project.

The Official History of the RepRap Project | All3DP

You don't need a Prusa printer to enjoy PrusaSlicer. The Ender 3 is a great example. Discover the perfect PrusaSlicer Ender 3 profiles!

PrusaSlicer & the Ender 3: The Best Profile | All3DP

The 3D printing ecosystem is growing rapidly, according to Mathias Plica, Co-Founder of All3DP. 2015 will bring many new 3D printing products.

After the hype is before the boom | all3dp.com

Too bad you can't 3D print electronics, right? The PCB Printer is becoming more and more common, so let's take a look at the playing field!

The Rise and Rise of the PCB Printer | All3DP

Fashion designers are using this new technology to turn their wildest ideas into reality. Let's take a closer look at what's currently on offer.

3D Printed Fashion: The State of the Art | All3DP

The International Space Station’s 3D printer has manufactured the first 3D printed object in space. Guess how the piece turned out.

This is the first 3D printed piece from the ISS

Check out the first 3D printed music video, called The Black Crook, which remixes the story of Frankenstein with hip hop beats and 3D printed jewelry. 

The Black Crook: The First 3D Printed Music Video | All3DP

Held together with 3D printed joints and utilizing high-tech The Breath fabric, Japanese architect Kengo Kuma's "breath/ng" sculpture looks good and does good.

This Folded Sculpture Captures the Pollution from the Air | All3DP

The future of 3D printing is bright, with several high stakes players entering the scene. People are looking to solve some very specific, challenging problems with creative innovations. Here are a handful of them.

The Future of 3D Printing – Technology on the Horizon | All3DP

So you’ve enjoyed the rapid prototyping and low trial costs with 3D Printing and are now ready to go into production with the final design. To help with this process we are going to look at some of the best injection molding companies and compare our experience with them.

Injection Molding Companies - The Best Companies On The Market | All3DP

With thousands of interlocking pieces, see how the Kinematics dress by Nervous System was 3D printed as a single piece at the Shapeways factory in NYC.

The Making of the Kinematics Dress by Nervous System | All3DP

The US Postal Service has released a juicy paper with great insights on 3D Printing and the future of manufacturing, logistics and shipping.

3D Printing and the Future of the Postal Service | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>scale to 1357.6% in cura</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Overture+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Overture PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Tf2 Jag

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I made two versions of this key knife. One with a ring for keyfobs and one without. I found I liked the one without the ring after trying both. For the hardware, I used 0.500&quot; 2-56 0.1875 round standoffs and  0.250&quot; 2-56 Panhead screws. The washers are 0.0625 x 0.4375 x 0.1875. I used a rubber washer to add a slight resistance so the keys would not swing too freely.</p>
<p>You can use SVG files to customize the two scales.</p>
<p>I did have to file a few of my keys to fit over the standoffs.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Key Knife with One Ring

I made two versions of this key knife. One with a ring for keyfobs and one without. I found I liked the one without the ring after trying both. For the hardware, I used 0.500" 2-56 0.1875 round standoffs and  0.250" 2-56 Panhead screws. The washers are 0.0625 x 0.4375 x 0.1875. I used a rubber washer to add a slight resistance so the keys would not swing too freely.

You can use SVG files to customize the two scales.

I did have to file a few of my keys to fit over the standoffs.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Version one is designed for single filament printers.<br>
Version two (MMU) is designed for multi material printers.</p>
<p>Help support my design work by visiting my referral links:<br>
Upland referral (virtual property trading game): <a rel="nofollow" href="https://r.upland.me/qk9X">https://r.upland.me/qk9X</a><br>
Brave Browser referral: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://brave.com/tod573">https://brave.com/tod573</a></p>
<p>Visit my website: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://StarLabs3D.com">https://StarLabs3D.com</a></p>
<p>My YouTube: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/c/ToddOlsen">https://www.youtube.com/c/ToddOlsen</a></p>
<p><strong><em>See video below</em></strong></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>i3 MK3 MMU 2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Hatchbox+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Hatchbox PLA                    </a>

                    Tan, Brown, Black, Red
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/1cwOeWBrNh0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
                <p class="detail-caption">https://www.youtube.com/c/ToddOlsen</p>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/b7/11/9a/b3/8f/Crypto_Tip_Image.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>https://StarLabs3D.com</strong></p>
</body></html>

Pirate Ship

Version one is designed for single filament printers.
Version two (MMU) is designed for multi material printers.

Help support my design work by visiting my referral links:
Upland referral (virtual property trading game): https://r.upland.me/qk9X
Brave Browser referral: https://brave.com/tod573

Visit my website: https://StarLabs3D.com

My YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/ToddOlsen

***See video below***


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Wonder Woman stencil 5</p></div>
</body></html>

Wonder Woman stencil 5

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Wonder Woman stencil 6</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

Wonder Woman stencil 6

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Sword Hero stencil</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

Sword Hero stencil

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I designed a Headphone Holder </p>
<p>You need 2xM4 screws and 2x M4x50 nuts. 1x M6x10 Screw. I did that modular design to be able to print the big parts on a regular sized printer</p>
<p>I used 6 5730 Led to light up the Logo </p>
<p>As powersuppy i used one 18650 battery with a tpa4056 batterycharger and a mt3608 dc-dc boost converter to boost the voltage to 12v. so i could solder all 6 leds in series.</p>
<p>I deleted the Name &quot;Mogul&quot; so everyone can use it. I&apos;ll upload &quot;for the Alliance&quot; later if it&apos;s needed.</p>
<p>STEP Files are included so you can modify it easily.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Eryone+and+3DJake+eco+PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Eryone and 3DJake eco PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Black; Silk Gold; White
</body></html>

Handphone Holder Warcraft Horde

I designed a Headphone Holder 

You need 2xM4 screws and 2x M4x50 nuts. 1x M6x10 Screw. I did that modular design to be able to print the big parts on a regular sized printer

I used 6 5730 Led to light up the Logo 

As powersuppy i used one 18650 battery with a tpa4056 batterycharger and a mt3608 dc-dc boost converter to boost the voltage to 12v. so i could solder all 6 leds in series.

I deleted the Name "Mogul" so everyone can use it. I'll upload "for the Alliance" later if it's needed.

STEP Files are included so you can modify it easily.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Case for the cheap thermometers one can get on aliexpress.</p>
<p>Design included both with slotted holes on back and hole for the model with cable.</p>
<p>Print with backwall facing down.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        PLA PLA                    </a>

                    White
</body></html>

Thermometer case

Case for the cheap thermometers one can get on aliexpress.

Design included both with slotted holes on back and hole for the model with cable.

Print with backwall facing down.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a remix of the Orbiter extruder and is definitely a work in progress.</p>
<p>The base adapter is for the e3d tool changer v6 bowden tool. The changes to the extruder are in the housing and the drive train.</p>
<p>In the housing I made the following changes:</p>
<p>1) The heat break part is replaced with a simple PTFE 4 mm o.d. tube. I recommend, after printing and assembling this, to take some two part mold-able epoxy (like Milliput) and build up the area around the tubing to hold it precisely between the hobb gears and as close as possible to the hobb gears. I will include a photo of what I did.</p>
<p>2) The M3 heat set insert that holds the latch closing screw in place was made larger to have what I had in stock. I will update this with its&apos; dimensions and try to put a link to the item in Amazon.</p>
<p>3) The filament entrance to the extruder supports use of a very lightweight plastic locking collet (the same part that e3d uses with their extruders) which will hold a PTFE 4mm .o.d. tube in place. This allows using tubing to guide the filament from the spool to the extruder. I use it with a dry box so that the filament is only exposed to the ambient air inside the extruder itself.</p>
<p>4) Integrated e3d tool changer style wiring harness and harness guide mounting point. There are provisions for 3 zip lock ties to hold the wiring in place and a slot for a flat steel &quot;wiring harness guide&quot;. If you want to understand this set up, please look at e3d&apos;s v6 bowden tool for their tool changer. Even if you are not using e3d&apos;s tool changer, it&apos;s nice to have a place to anchor the extruder wiring harness.</p>
<p>In the drive train:</p>
<p>I wanted a way to be able to print as much of the drive train as possible. I modified the drive shaft/spider to support press on gears (no bearings needed). I modified the spur gears to match the drive shaft. The spur gears have also been modified to minimize the effect of &quot;elephant foot&quot; and with chamfers on the gear teeth. I have printed my first set in Matterhacker&apos;s NylonX (PA-12 with additives and carbon fiber). So far, they are working very well. The have stood up to the break in and several hours of use so far.</p>
<p>A note: if using a 0.4mm nozzle, set the extrusion width significantly smaller when printing out the gears. The 0.4 mm nozzle will allow the use of carbon fiber or glass fiber reinforced plastic. The smaller extrusion width should give a more accurate gear tooth profile.</p>
<p>When pressing the spur gears onto the drive shaft, the inside of the gears and the stubs they will be mounted on must be heavily lubricated (synthetic or silicon grease with PTFE added) prior to being pressed on. I use a bench vice to carefully apply pressure. The drive shaft stubs where the spur gears are mounted are large enough to not break under use. If you have pressed them in too hard (such that they refuse to turn), they can be carefully pried about 1 mm away. Do this for all 3 spur gears.</p>
<p>There are two steps to breaking in the drive train / gears.</p>
<p>1) Initially, to break them in, use a power drill or bench drill press. Chuck up the drive shaft with the gears pressed on and put the assembly into a heavily lubricated ring gear . Slowly spin the driveshaft for the first 20 revolutions or so. It should become much easier to turn pretty quickly. (If you are wondering how robust this is, you can let the drill press run for an hour or more as long as the lubrication stays in place. Because heat can be generated, don&apos;t leave it unattended.</p>
<p>2) Now add the stepper motor to the assembly so that its gear engages the printed spur gears. The complete assembly may be difficult to turn. Run a power drill slowly (like in the first step) for about 20 turns. It should now turn easier. You can continue to use a hand power drill to break it in. The stepper motor may get quite hot so be careful holding it.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>BigBox</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50% to 100% (use lots of shells as well)</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Matterhacker%27s+nylonX+Nylon+12+with+carbon+fiber&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Matterhacker&apos;s nylonX Nylon 12 with carbon fiber                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Orbiter Remix for e3d tool changer

This is a remix of the Orbiter extruder and is definitely a work in progress.

The base adapter is for the e3d tool changer v6 bowden tool. The changes to the extruder are in the housing and the drive train.

In the housing I made the following changes:

1) The heat break part is replaced with a simple PTFE 4 mm o.d. tube. I recommend, after printing and assembling this, to take some two part mold-able epoxy (like Milliput) and build up the area around the tubing to hold it precisely between the hobb gears and as close as possible to the hobb gears. I will include a photo of what I did.

2) The M3 heat set insert that holds the latch closing screw in place was made larger to have what I had in stock. I will update this with its' dimensions and try to put a link to the item in Amazon.

3) The filament entrance to the extruder supports use of a very lightweight plastic locking collet (the same part that e3d uses with their extruders) which will hold a PTFE 4mm .o.d. tube in place. This allows using tubing to guide the filament from the spool to the extruder. I use it with a dry box so that the filament is only exposed to the ambient air inside the extruder itself.

4) Integrated e3d tool changer style wiring harness and harness guide mounting point. There are provisions for 3 zip lock ties to hold the wiring in place and a slot for a flat steel "wiring harness guide". If you want to understand this set up, please look at e3d's v6 bowden tool for their tool changer. Even if you are not using e3d's tool changer, it's nice to have a place to anchor the extruder wiring harness.

In the drive train:

I wanted a way to be able to print as much of the drive train as possible. I modified the drive shaft/spider to support press on gears (no bearings needed). I modified the spur gears to match the drive shaft. The spur gears have also been modified to minimize the effect of "elephant foot" and with chamfers on the gear teeth. I have printed my first set in Matterhacker's NylonX (PA-12 with additives and carbon fiber). So far, they are working very well. The have stood up to the break in and several hours of use so far.

A note: if using a 0.4mm nozzle, set the extrusion width significantly smaller when printing out the gears. The 0.4 mm nozzle will allow the use of carbon fiber or glass fiber reinforced plastic. The smaller extrusion width should give a more accurate gear tooth profile.

When pressing the spur gears onto the drive shaft, the inside of the gears and the stubs they will be mounted on must be heavily lubricated (synthetic or silicon grease with PTFE added) prior to being pressed on. I use a bench vice to carefully apply pressure. The drive shaft stubs where the spur gears are mounted are large enough to not break under use. If you have pressed them in too hard (such that they refuse to turn), they can be carefully pried about 1 mm away. Do this for all 3 spur gears.

There are two steps to breaking in the drive train / gears.

1) Initially, to break them in, use a power drill or bench drill press. Chuck up the drive shaft with the gears pressed on and put the assembly into a heavily lubricated ring gear . Slowly spin the driveshaft for the first 20 revolutions or so. It should become much easier to turn pretty quickly. (If you are wondering how robust this is, you can let the drill press run for an hour or more as long as the lubrication stays in place. Because heat can be generated, don't leave it unattended.

2) Now add the stepper motor to the assembly so that its gear engages the printed spur gears. The complete assembly may be difficult to turn. Run a power drill slowly (like in the first step) for about 20 turns. It should now turn easier. You can continue to use a hand power drill to break it in. The stepper motor may get quite hot so be careful holding it.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I just did a Remix of the Lord of the Rings silhouette art from <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4579876">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579876</a></p>
<p>I changed the font from whole to 3D on print so I can use different color with a filament change during the print.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=-+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        - PLA                    </a>

                    Black and Gold
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/9f/11/47/b7/ef/IMG_6714.jpeg"></p>
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The Lord of the Rings Silhouette 

I just did a Remix of the Lord of the Rings silhouette art from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579876

I changed the font from whole to 3D on print so I can use different color with a filament change during the print.



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Zelda: Twilight Princess</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
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Zelda: Twilight Princess stencil

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Princess Zelda</p></div>
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