If you attend CES 2015 in Las Vegas this year, you should definitely take some time to see this 3D printed dress.

The 3D Printed "Spider Dress" | All3DP

The maker behind the territorial 3D printed Spider Dress, Anouk Wipprecht, shares her process, thoughts on FashionTech.

Wipprecht Talks 3D Printed Spider Dress, FashionTech | All3DP

Siemens spider-like robots, equipped with 3D printing technology, have been developed which work together to construct complex structures.

Siemens Spider-Bots 3D Print Together | All3DP

Engineers from the defense company Lockheed Martin are using MakerBot 3D printing to develop new designs for SPIDER imaging technology.

Lockheed Martin Uses MakerBot 3D Printing To Design New Space Telescopes | All3DP

Need to prepare decorations for Halloween? We've got you covered with this spooky 3D printed Pumpkin Spider Transformer designed by William Bruning.

[Project] 3D Print a Creepy-Crawling Halloween Pumpkin Spider Transformer | All3DP

Developed to ISS specifications, the Artec Space Spider industrial handheld 3D scanner promises seamless quality and accuracy. Read on for our review of this machine's specs.

Artec Space Spider 3D Scanner: Review the Specs | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Marvel&apos;s Spider-Cat</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

Marvel's Spider-Cat stencil

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a spare part for a Tacx Team Sprint bicycle repair stand (T3350). It replaces the original bushing for 15mm  x 100mm achses (front wheel).</p>
<p>For reasons I coud not slice it with Cura. Cura sees some surfaces wher no surface are and want to print them. :o(<br>
But Slic3r slices it fine.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2 mm</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>
</body></html>

Tacx Spider Team 15mm socket

This is a spare part for a Tacx Team Sprint bicycle repair stand (T3350). It replaces the original bushing for 15mm  x 100mm achses (front wheel).

For reasons I coud not slice it with Cura. Cura sees some surfaces wher no surface are and want to print them. :o(
But Slic3r slices it fine.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Some people don&apos;t know how hard designing a model is. Despite the simplicity, this model took me over 2 weeks to get to v6, and I&apos;m already planning a v7 for next Halloween. So please if you like this model post a like and if you make it show me how you made it by posting a make. Also sorry I couldn&apos;t print in SPOoooOoKY black, I ran out and my local shop was out of stock. Sorry about the bad image quality, I&apos;m working on it.</p>
<p>The spooky spider is extremely simple to put together, just print the card cut 4 legs out of your 1.75 filament (these will be folded in half to make 8 legs) send it to whoever you want, or keep it, then cut out the pieces stick them together. Now you&apos;ve got yourself a SPOoooOoKY Spider!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Sidewinder X1</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Whatever</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=3DPO+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        3DPO PLA                    </a>

                    White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Feel free to remix!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom the-versions">The Versions</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/2c/2a/29/22/c8/V2-6.PNG"></p>
</body></html>

Spooky Halloween Spider

Some people don't know how hard designing a model is. Despite the simplicity, this model took me over 2 weeks to get to v6, and I'm already planning a v7 for next Halloween. So please if you like this model post a like and if you make it show me how you made it by posting a make. Also sorry I couldn't print in SPOoooOoKY black, I ran out and my local shop was out of stock. Sorry about the bad image quality, I'm working on it.


The spooky spider is extremely simple to put together, just print the card cut 4 legs out of your 1.75 filament (these will be folded in half to make 8 legs) send it to whoever you want, or keep it, then cut out the pieces stick them together. Now you've got yourself a SPOoooOoKY Spider!


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I wanted to challenge myself to design a sort of wiggly bug that could print in place, so I made this. The spider&apos;s legs hang on a bar inside the spider and wiggle when the spider is moved.</p>
<p>I wanted to make this as a pencil topper, but also then remembered I don&apos;t actually use pencils and would like something for pens as well, so I worked out two sizes of pen clip in addition to one to fit a range of pencils. The sizes are:</p>
<ul><li>12mm, good for most^ larger pens and pens with caps and side clips. (Also those nice wide mechanical pencils with the push up erasers.)</li>
<li>10mm, good for some in between pens and slim Bic type pens with caps</li>
<li>Pencil size, which is a stacked series of: 8.5, 8.3, 8, and 7.6mm. Fits most^ pencils as well as the end of some standard slim Bic-type pens and gel pens, sans caps.</li>
</ul><p>^(I tested just about every writing utensil I could find in the house. You may also want to measure your favorite writing implement before making a choice.)</p>
<p>There is an opening on the pen clips to fit around the side clips many pens and pen caps have; there is a slimmer section of the ring for sliding under that clip for better hold, or the regular thickness for other pens&#x2014;or you leave the opening where the clip is, depending on the pen and the fit.</p>
<p>I have built in some bed anchors around the model to help keep the tiny pieces in place through printing, as well as to be able to add 0-distance skirt lines to firm up the adhesion and horizontal support, and to keep those extra lines off the legs which are a pain to try and clean up. </p>
<p>If you want to remix any part of this, I included files for the pen and pencil toppers on their own, the spider on its own, and the three finished models without the bed anchor lines.</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFocx2qOvlo"></a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.12</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Jessie+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Jessie PLA                    </a>

                    Orange
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Designed with 0.12 resolution in mind; haven&apos;t tested any others, although I print with the bottom layer at 0.2. You want good bed adhesion but not <em>too</em> good that tiny pieces may break if you have to pry it off the build surface.</p>
<p>Try to carefully loosen both sides of each of the leg sets off the bed first before the rest. Skirt at an approaching-zero distance a la a brim for bed adhesion and stability; if you can brim in your slicer without brimming around the legs, that should work too.</p>
<p>(Filament in photo is Jessie Mystery Orange.)</p></div>
</body></html>

Wiggly Spider Pencil Topper or Pen Clip, for Halloween or whenever

I wanted to challenge myself to design a sort of wiggly bug that could print in place, so I made this. The spider's legs hang on a bar inside the spider and wiggle when the spider is moved.

I wanted to make this as a pencil topper, but also then remembered I don't actually use pencils and would like something for pens as well, so I worked out two sizes of pen clip in addition to one to fit a range of pencils. The sizes are:
-   12mm, good for most^ larger pens and pens with caps and side clips. (Also those nice wide mechanical pencils with the push up erasers.)
-   10mm, good for some in between pens and slim Bic type pens with caps
-   Pencil size, which is a stacked series of: 8.5, 8.3, 8, and 7.6mm. Fits most^ pencils as well as the end of some standard slim Bic-type pens and gel pens, sans caps.

^(I tested just about every writing utensil I could find in the house. You may also want to measure your favorite writing implement before making a choice.)

There is an opening on the pen clips to fit around the side clips many pens and pen caps have; there is a slimmer section of the ring for sliding under that clip for better hold, or the regular thickness for other pens—or you leave the opening where the clip is, depending on the pen and the fit.

I have built in some bed anchors around the model to help keep the tiny pieces in place through printing, as well as to be able to add 0-distance skirt lines to firm up the adhesion and horizontal support, and to keep those extra lines off the legs which are a pain to try and clean up. 

If you want to remix any part of this, I included files for the pen and pencil toppers on their own, the spider on its own, and the three finished models without the bed anchor lines.

[](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFocx2qOvlo)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>100% Medically Accurate (spider medicine)</p>
<p>A cute spider I designed as a Halloween decoration. </p>
<p>This is my first ever design, please feel free to remix and improve it.<br>
I would love to see pictures of prints you make!</p>
<p>Will add a version with a loop soon, so it can be hung by a thread. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=n%2Fa+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        n/a PLA                    </a>

                    
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Used gradual infill on Cura so that only the top half (i.e., body) has infill. </p>
<p>Supports break off pretty easily. </p>
<p>Gently move front joint on legs back and forth until they can move freely. </p></div>
</body></html>

Cute Spider with Movable Legs (Good for Halloween!)

100% Medically Accurate (spider medicine)

A cute spider I designed as a Halloween decoration. 

This is my first ever design, please feel free to remix and improve it.
I would love to see pictures of prints you make!

Will add a version with a loop soon, so it can be hung by a thread. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Cuadro Spiderman</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=G+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        G PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Escudo SpiderMan

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>The Alpha variant of my spider beetle model.</p></div>
</body></html>

Alpha Spider Beetle

The Alpha variant of my spider beetle model.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Spider-Bot from the movie Runaway</p>
<p>Hello all, over the last week I have been sinking all my time into this prop reproduction from the movie Runaway (Tom Sellek and Gene Simmons 1984 - <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0088024/">https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0088024/</a> ). I have always had a love for the killer robot spiders, so I decided to go looking for a print. Oddly enough there are none modelled off this amazing killer spider!  So I decided to start toying with this. Slowly but surely over the course of 5 full days of modelling 16 hours a day I have what I consider a 90% faithful looking kit. I went through many versions of printing to get this to just the right level of building and look. I will continue to add some greebles to this as I finish the final building, but this is the base kit. </p>
<p>There are outside parts you will want/need to complete this. </p>
<ul><li>Flexible cable conduit (for the top level, see the actual prop photos)</li>
<li>Misc wiring (for all over)</li>
<li>small Zip ties (for all over securing the wiring etc)</li>
<li>Optional (If you want more strength on the top rods): 2x 3mm Tubes or dowels (200 mm length each), steel for strength (a coat hanger may work here I have not tested that yet), 5mm tube for the main support</li>
<li>Wooden skewers from the grocery store will likely also work here as they are long enough and 3mm thick. </li>
<li>Superglue. </li>
<li>Assortment of M3 socket head cap screws (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06ZY36VDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06ZY36VDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a>) (These are optional as you can glue it all together, but the extra realism you get with these and the ability to take this apart to add to it or work on it I find is well worth the upgrade)</li>
<li>Paint - Aluminum, or silver. Detail Paint: flat black, white, and any other touches you might like. </li>
<li>Optional: Instead of printing the battery pack I recommend just making one yourself from old AA or AAA batteries, this will add some nice weight, and cuts an hour from the print time ;)</li>
</ul><p>Considerations</p>
<ul><li>I am trying to make this as easy a print as possible while being faithful to the onscreen prop from the movie, you should be able to look at it and know exactly where it is from if you&apos;ve seen it before :)</li>
<li>The legs are moveable strictly side to side, not the joints. </li>
<li>The gears go nowhere but do spin :), yes I know, this is not a working model kit, but to give the best approximation and to keep simplicity. they will never go anywhere, there are also some linkages missing and some small liberties taken so that the print looks right and will display nicely, yet giving you the options to explore adding your own greebles. </li>
<li>This is my first mega type build of this degree. It&apos;s not going to be perfect. And it&apos;s all designed in tinkercad. And I have now rebuilt almost all of the original to increase details, and improve the print quality. a few times over now :P </li>
<li>By the time this gets to thingaverse it will be fully printed and and issues I can&apos;t correct will be documented and explained. (see above :P )</li>
<li>This kit is meant to be printed on a 200mm bed. it&apos;s scaled for every part to fit, It&apos;s very close to the movie prop in size</li>
<li>Not all the print times are listed, there were a lot of changes and variations as I was trying to both write up this guide and get things done ;) It will likely take a day to print this at .2, 35mm/s and 20-80% fill. </li>
</ul><p>Assembly:</p>
<ul><li>While you can just glue everything together I used a mix of gluing some parts and bolting the frames together. </li>
<li>Sand edges (or exacto) to remove all elephants foot expansion and fill/sand to your desire. Then paint pretty much all silver and weather it with black wash. I barely had to sand anything, not much more than 10 minutes for the whole kit. A lot of thought went into fit here :) </li>
<li>Install pictures are below</li>
</ul><p>General print settings</p>
<ul><li>.20 quality (each part group is detailed so if something is different it is listed there)</li>
<li>Infill will vary from 20-80% and will be listed</li>
<li>35mm Print speed</li>
<li>Hot end temp: 205 degrees</li>
<li>Bed Temp 60 degree first layer 55 degree and gradating down to 0 depending on height</li>
<li>Ironing is on top layer only</li>
<li>other settings as best suits your style</li>
</ul><p>Parts Breakdowns</p>
<p>Legs: </p>
<ul><li>Grouped together for the middle sets and the end legs, all are split</li>
<li>Print the end legs twice for the right number (this is because I am impatient :P )</li>
<li>1.5 hour print for each pair of legs</li>
<li>Support everywhere at 60degrees</li>
<li>these print clean, the supports come off well, had to redesign these to make the springs prominent. this version works well, the posts are black, I would silver accent the spring edges</li>
<li>short legs go on the front and back, holes face the front, a very light sanding of the posts top and bottom so they are smooth. They are supposed to protrude from the top and bottom of the plates to mimic the prop mounting bolts. paint the top and bottom protrusions black</li>
</ul><p>Radio box: </p>
<ul><li>no support</li>
<li>30 minute print time</li>
<li>holes are included for attaching wiring, </li>
<li>this is a free mount part on the top deck on the riser above the top gear pack glue in place</li>
</ul><p>Control arms</p>
<ul><li>No support needed</li>
<li>15 minute print</li>
<li>Prints without issue as is</li>
<li>These are under/over control arms</li>
<li>a dab of glue on the top of the lower and the underside of the top with the bolt head. </li>
<li>if there is a fit issue (I had to change the dimension thickness of the chassis) hot water bend these to fit but mine fit perfect</li>
</ul><p>Lower box and rod</p>
<ul><li>No support needed</li>
<li>20 minute print</li>
<li>free mount for the base of the box, the rod will connect to the front motor in the hole, slight sanding will be required for fit</li>
<li>you can glue the box to the base or just leave it as a friction fit part</li>
</ul><p>Lower back plate</p>
<ul><li>7 minute print time on horizontal, 30 minutes vertical</li>
<li>print with support (unless printing vertical)</li>
<li>A bolt screws in through this, through the base plate, and through the servo hosing and into the servos. </li>
</ul><p>Lower Main Plate</p>
<ul><li>No Supports</li>
<li>printed at 40% infill</li>
<li>print time 3 hours</li>
<li>Increased the infill to 40% as I also thickened the plate from 1mm to 4mm, this gives a better quality print and a more realistic feel, I will be changing the gears to 3mm as I feel they were a bit thin also.</li>
<li>Slightly file the mounting holes for the legs only. the other holes should be left alone so the threads can grab. </li>
</ul><p>Lower Gear Pod</p>
<ul><li>No supports</li>
<li>50 minute print time</li>
<li>80% fill for rod strength</li>
<li>Minor filing of the holes may be required so they free spin</li>
<li>the base gear fits into the main plate indent and should be glued, and the gears will just stack on top</li>
<li>the main gear shaft will line up into the top plate hole (do not glue the rod to the top if you glued the bottom!)</li>
</ul><p>Upper Gear Pod</p>
<ul><li>No supports</li>
<li>50 minute print time</li>
<li>80% fill for rod strength</li>
<li>Minor filing of the holes may be required so they free spin</li>
<li>the base gear fits into the top plate indent and should be glued, and the gears will just stack on top</li>
<li>the main gear shaft will line up into the top riser hole (do not glue the rod to the top if you glued the bottom!)</li>
</ul><p>Back Servos</p>
<ul><li>no support</li>
<li>1 hour print time</li>
<li>colour black with white top gears</li>
<li>feel free to add linkages to other areas </li>
<li>mounted upside down in the servo holder via screws top and bottom</li>
</ul><p>front motor</p>
<ul><li>support is needed here but you can likely get away without it</li>
<li>1 hour print</li>
<li>front location, line up with the plate edging and top and bottom plate holes</li>
<li>add a zip tie around the top for the authentic prop look</li>
<li>run wiring and add holes to mount if you like (future version may get this)</li>
</ul><p>Rods</p>
<ul><li>No Support</li>
<li>80% fill</li>
<li>1 hour print</li>
<li>print horizontally (for strength)</li>
<li>These came out very well and I have high hopes for strength, sand the ends to insert into the fore and aft vertical plates, there will be a bit of a flat spot on the bottom, face that down if you glue these in (no glue required if bolting this together. rods are flush to the back when complete. </li>
</ul><p>Vertical Support</p>
<ul><li>print horizontal with support</li>
<li>40% fill as it&apos;s structural</li>
<li>the short end of this mounts in the box on the main bottom plate, you can glue the base or I used bolts from the bottom to add to the bottoms look, do not over tighten any bolts!</li>
</ul><p>Upper and lower risers</p>
<ul><li>40% fill</li>
<li>1 hour print time</li>
<li>Support as your preference</li>
<li>Upper riser has a hole for the upper gear pod</li>
<li>lower riser has no hole. </li>
<li>lower riser butts up against the vertical support holder, upper support butts up against the front plate, glue these down. (for the upper riser paint the area and gears first)</li>
</ul><p>Top plates</p>
<ul><li>40% fill</li>
<li>half hour print</li>
<li>both align to the front and back edges, either screw down with m3 bolts or glue directly</li>
</ul><p>Server housing</p>
<ul><li>40% fill</li>
<li>30 minute print</li>
<li>no support needed</li>
<li>line up the mounting holes, make sure the servos are inside (should move freely) bolt in place with longer m3 screws</li>
</ul><p>I have about 100 hours of design time and 2 days of print time into this to create something cool! If you make one please post it as I would love to see it, if you have any questions please ask. :)</p>
<p>Enjoy this model!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%-80%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Eryone+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Eryone PLA                    </a>

                    Blue
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>35mm/s<br>
205 hot end<br>
55 bed</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/61/56/c5/5c/e7/00.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>All the parts needed</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/20/dd/a3/a1/30/01.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Control arms glue to the bottom of the front/back leg supports and glue to the top of the center leg support as pictured</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/67/c7/c7/0f/3c/02.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Front motor mounts into the area in the front, add an m3 screw from the bottom of the main plate to secure it, or use glue, side cutouts to the bottom, large hole to the back. The vertical support is short side down, screw 2 m3 screws from the bottom to secure it. the back servose mount upside down into the servo houseing, that lines up to the mounting hole on the main plate. the bottom back plate is mounted under the main chassis plate, use a longer m3 screw to go through all 4 parts</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/98/82/34/93/0c/03.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Front block slides into the hole in the back of the motor, the main gear/shaft glues into the inset in the bottom plate, the back riser butts up against the vertical support area</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/2e/93/a9/36/5f/04.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Gears can be stacked to your preference and order</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/e0/44/61/39/ef/05.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Use a real battery pack here for weight and saving some print time. 3 old batteries taped together</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/77/6e/f6/2a/a7/06.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>top rails slide into the mounting holes, center rail should protrude font and back</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/6a/0f/8d/72/04/07.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Long straight legs in the middle, end short legs front and back, holes facing forward</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/9e/19/04/35/92/08.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Align the top plate with the leg joints and the lower gear shaft</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/75/59/e0/51/0c/09.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Top gear pack can be stacked to preference, glue the main gear/shaft to the inset on the top plate</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/7b/fa/11/8a/f0/10.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Top rails and front plates to be glued to the top plate, line up with the edges and mounting holes, use m3 screws</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/03/d5/9e/88/02/11.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>The Radio can be glued or double sided taped to the riser, the riser should be glued to the front plate and to the top plate</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f0/fe/80/ee/07/12.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>The completed Model</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-title"><strong>Install steps to go with the photos</strong></p>
                <div><p>1- Control arms glue to the bottom of the front/back leg supports and glue to the top of the center leg support as pictured<br>
2- Front motor mounts into the area in the front, add an m3 screw from the bottom of the main plate to secure it, or use glue, side cutouts to the bottom, large hole to the back. The vertical support is short side down, screw 2 m3 screws from the bottom to secure it. the back servos mount upside down into the servo housing, that lines up to the mounting hole on the main plate. the bottom back plate is mounted under the main chassis plate, use a longer m3 screw to go through all 4 parts<br>
3- Front block slides into the hole in the back of the motor, the main gear/shaft glues into the inset in the bottom plate, the back riser butts up against the vertical support area<br>
4- Gears can be stacked to your preference and order<br>
5- Use a real battery pack here for weight and saving some print time. 3 old batteries taped together<br>
6- top rails slide into the mounting holes, center rail should protrude font and back<br>
7- Long straight legs in the middle, end short legs front and back, holes facing forward<br>
8- Align the top plate with the leg joints and the lower gear shaft<br>
9- Top rails and front plates to be glued to the top plate, line up with the edges and mounting holes, use m3 screws<br>
10- The Radio can be glued or double sided taped to the riser, the riser should be glued to the front plate and to the top plate</p>
<p>Add Greebles to taste and enjoy</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom custom-section">Custom Section</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Extra Parts required and where they go</strong></p>
                <div><p>Take a look at the actual prop photo (with the movie and radio pictured) To finish this kit you will want a piece of black flexible plastic wiring conduit for the top, you will also want some wiring of various colour and sizes, run wiring to the radio controller on top  and zip tie to the top plate using the existing holes, a zipe tie around the top of the front motor also and run various wiring through the top center hole to the back servos and battery pack to finish this kit off. </p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/d3/f4/3c/60/cc/P1230056.jpg"></p>
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom custom-section">Custom Section</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Runaway Lock-On Coming this week!</strong></p>
                <div><p>I have finished modelling this one, and am just in the process of breaking it down for printing, it should also include options for wiring and LED lighting for the front display and the top arming light. </p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f8/51/52/87/f6/vlcsnap-00004.png"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f4/c4/7f/fc/ec/2020-11-15_08_22_09-StrokesPlus.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/7c/7a/64/df/81/2020-11-15_08_22_14-StrokesPlus.jpg"></p>
</body></html>

Spider-Bot from the movie Runaway

Spider-Bot from the movie Runaway

Hello all, over the last week I have been sinking all my time into this prop reproduction from the movie Runaway (Tom Sellek and Gene Simmons 1984 - https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0088024/ ). I have always had a love for the killer robot spiders, so I decided to go looking for a print. Oddly enough there are none modelled off this amazing killer spider!  So I decided to start toying with this. Slowly but surely over the course of 5 full days of modelling 16 hours a day I have what I consider a 90% faithful looking kit. I went through many versions of printing to get this to just the right level of building and look. I will continue to add some greebles to this as I finish the final building, but this is the base kit. 

There are outside parts you will want/need to complete this. 
- Flexible cable conduit (for the top level, see the actual prop photos)
- Misc wiring (for all over)
- small Zip ties (for all over securing the wiring etc)
- Optional (If you want more strength on the top rods): 2x 3mm Tubes or dowels (200 mm length each), steel for strength (a coat hanger may work here I have not tested that yet), 5mm tube for the main support
- Wooden skewers from the grocery store will likely also work here as they are long enough and 3mm thick. 
- Superglue. 
- Assortment of M3 socket head cap screws (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06ZY36VDP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (These are optional as you can glue it all together, but the extra realism you get with these and the ability to take this apart to add to it or work on it I find is well worth the upgrade)
- Paint - Aluminum, or silver. Detail Paint: flat black, white, and any other touches you might like. 
- Optional: Instead of printing the battery pack I recommend just making one yourself from old AA or AAA batteries, this will add some nice weight, and cuts an hour from the print time ;)

Considerations
- I am trying to make this as easy a print as possible while being faithful to the onscreen prop from the movie, you should be able to look at it and know exactly where it is from if you've seen it before :)
- The legs are moveable strictly side to side, not the joints. 
- The gears go nowhere but do spin :), yes I know, this is not a working model kit, but to give the best approximation and to keep simplicity. they will never go anywhere, there are also some linkages missing and some small liberties taken so that the print looks right and will display nicely, yet giving you the options to explore adding your own greebles. 
- This is my first mega type build of this degree. It's not going to be perfect. And it's all designed in tinkercad. And I have now rebuilt almost all of the original to increase details, and improve the print quality. a few times over now :P 
- By the time this gets to thingaverse it will be fully printed and and issues I can't correct will be documented and explained. (see above :P )
- This kit is meant to be printed on a 200mm bed. it's scaled for every part to fit, It's very close to the movie prop in size
- Not all the print times are listed, there were a lot of changes and variations as I was trying to both write up this guide and get things done ;) It will likely take a day to print this at .2, 35mm/s and 20-80% fill. 


Assembly:
- While you can just glue everything together I used a mix of gluing some parts and bolting the frames together. 
- Sand edges (or exacto) to remove all elephants foot expansion and fill/sand to your desire. Then paint pretty much all silver and weather it with black wash. I barely had to sand anything, not much more than 10 minutes for the whole kit. A lot of thought went into fit here :) 
- Install pictures are below

General print settings
- .20 quality (each part group is detailed so if something is different it is listed there)
- Infill will vary from 20-80% and will be listed
- 35mm Print speed
- Hot end temp: 205 degrees
- Bed Temp 60 degree first layer 55 degree and gradating down to 0 depending on height
- Ironing is on top layer only
- other settings as best suits your style

Parts Breakdowns

Legs: 
- Grouped together for the middle sets and the end legs, all are split
- Print the end legs twice for the right number (this is because I am impatient :P )
- 1.5 hour print for each pair of legs
- Support everywhere at 60degrees
- these print clean, the supports come off well, had to redesign these to make the springs prominent. this version works well, the posts are black, I would silver accent the spring edges
- short legs go on the front and back, holes face the front, a very light sanding of the posts top and bottom so they are smooth. They are supposed to protrude from the top and bottom of the plates to mimic the prop mounting bolts. paint the top and bottom protrusions black

Radio box: 
- no support
- 30 minute print time
- holes are included for attaching wiring, 
- this is a free mount part on the top deck on the riser above the top gear pack glue in place

Control arms
- No support needed
- 15 minute print
- Prints without issue as is
- These are under/over control arms
- a dab of glue on the top of the lower and the underside of the top with the bolt head. 
- if there is a fit issue (I had to change the dimension thickness of the chassis) hot water bend these to fit but mine fit perfect

Lower box and rod
- No support needed
- 20 minute print
- free mount for the base of the box, the rod will connect to the front motor in the hole, slight sanding will be required for fit
- you can glue the box to the base or just leave it as a friction fit part

Lower back plate
- 7 minute print time on horizontal, 30 minutes vertical
- print with support (unless printing vertical)
- A bolt screws in through this, through the base plate, and through the servo hosing and into the servos. 

Lower Main Plate
- No Supports
- printed at 40% infill
- print time 3 hours
- Increased the infill to 40% as I also thickened the plate from 1mm to 4mm, this gives a better quality print and a more realistic feel, I will be changing the gears to 3mm as I feel they were a bit thin also.
- Slightly file the mounting holes for the legs only. the other holes should be left alone so the threads can grab. 

Lower Gear Pod
- No supports
- 50 minute print time
- 80% fill for rod strength
- Minor filing of the holes may be required so they free spin
- the base gear fits into the main plate indent and should be glued, and the gears will just stack on top
- the main gear shaft will line up into the top plate hole (do not glue the rod to the top if you glued the bottom!)

Upper Gear Pod
- No supports
- 50 minute print time
- 80% fill for rod strength
- Minor filing of the holes may be required so they free spin
- the base gear fits into the top plate indent and should be glued, and the gears will just stack on top
- the main gear shaft will line up into the top riser hole (do not glue the rod to the top if you glued the bottom!)

Back Servos
- no support
- 1 hour print time
- colour black with white top gears
- feel free to add linkages to other areas 
- mounted upside down in the servo holder via screws top and bottom

front motor
- support is needed here but you can likely get away without it
- 1 hour print
- front location, line up with the plate edging and top and bottom plate holes
- add a zip tie around the top for the authentic prop look
- run wiring and add holes to mount if you like (future version may get this)

Rods
- No Support
- 80% fill
- 1 hour print
- print horizontally (for strength)
- These came out very well and I have high hopes for strength, sand the ends to insert into the fore and aft vertical plates, there will be a bit of a flat spot on the bottom, face that down if you glue these in (no glue required if bolting this together. rods are flush to the back when complete. 

Vertical Support
- print horizontal with support
- 40% fill as it's structural
- the short end of this mounts in the box on the main bottom plate, you can glue the base or I used bolts from the bottom to add to the bottoms look, do not over tighten any bolts!

Upper and lower risers
- 40% fill
- 1 hour print time
- Support as your preference
- Upper riser has a hole for the upper gear pod
- lower riser has no hole. 
- lower riser butts up against the vertical support holder, upper support butts up against the front plate, glue these down. (for the upper riser paint the area and gears first)

Top plates
- 40% fill
- half hour print
- both align to the front and back edges, either screw down with m3 bolts or glue directly

Server housing
- 40% fill
- 30 minute print
- no support needed
- line up the mounting holes, make sure the servos are inside (should move freely) bolt in place with longer m3 screws

I have about 100 hours of design time and 2 days of print time into this to create something cool! If you make one please post it as I would love to see it, if you have any questions please ask. :)

Enjoy this model!



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Here&apos;s a small platform (with integrated needle storage) to make the objects hover a little above the plate. The needles are usually hardly picked up by the scanner while the patterns in the platform is perfect to keep the scanner focused in hard to scan or smaller areas of the object.</p>
<p>Any needle with a 10mm head will do but you can find the needles I used here :</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.bol.com/nl/p/spelden-met-knop-10-mm-wit/9200000107813348/">https://www.bol.com/nl/p/spelden-met-knop-10-mm-wit/9200000107813348/</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>MakerBot</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2ngdGqv?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">MakerBot Replicator 2</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyplus+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyplus PLA                    </a>

                    White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

3D Scan Platform with Needles ...

Here's a small platform (with integrated needle storage) to make the objects hover a little above the plate. The needles are usually hardly picked up by the scanner while the patterns in the platform is perfect to keep the scanner focused in hard to scan or smaller areas of the object.

Any needle with a 10mm head will do but you can find the needles I used here :

https://www.bol.com/nl/p/spelden-met-knop-10-mm-wit/9200000107813348/

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Guide piece for a front-brake support in Dualtron Mini. DON&apos;T USE IT DIRECTLY ON YOUR DUALTRON because printed piece are not strong enough. This is a guide to copy and make it in metal. You can use a printed spacer but not the main piece. I am not responsible for the incorrect use of this piece.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=BQ+EasyGo+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        BQ EasyGo PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Guide piece for a front-brake support in Dualtron Mini. DON&apos;T USE IT DIRECTLY ON YOUR DUALTRON because printed pieces are not strong enough. This is a guide to copy and make it in metal. I am not responsible for the incorrect use of this piece.</p>
<p>You can use a printed spacer but not the main piece. I will describe all the process I followed here in steps. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<div><p>DON&apos;T USE THIS PRINTED PIECE DIRECTLY on your dualtron mini. I am not responsible for the incorrect use of this piece.</p></div>
                <div><p>Things you need for the mod:</p>
<ul><li>You need to have done the 10&quot; wheels mod in you Dualtron Mini</li>
<li>Dualtron 2s front wheel </li>
<li>A 140mm disk brake (I reclycled the brake disk of my dualtron spider) </li>
<li>Your brake caliper. I used a Juin semi-hydraulic  </li>
<li>Brake calipper support for 140mm disk. I used the old one of my Dualtron Spider.</li>
<li>M6 bolts </li>
<li>M6 Spring Washers</li>
<li>M6 Helicoil kit (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.es/Teabelle-reparaci%C3%B3n-insertar-Helicoil-automoci%C3%B3n/dp/B07D2ZZ1CM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&amp;keywords=helicoil+m6&amp;qid=1604853899&amp;sr=8-5&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.es/Teabelle-reparaci%C3%B3n-insertar-Helicoil-automoci%C3%B3n/dp/B07D2ZZ1CM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&amp;keywords=helicoil+m6&amp;qid=1604853899&amp;sr=8-5</a>)</li>
<li>M5 bolts</li>
<li>M5 Washers</li>
</ul><p>This mod is adapted to my Juin brake caliper. You will need to play with more or less spacers to adapt yours.</p>
<p>First put the M5 washers between the wheel and the 140mm disk. Later put the brake disk</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/e5/05/e1/18/16/FotoJet_1.jpg"></p>
                    <div><p>Print the piece and mount it in the 140mm support. check the holes for your brake caliper. Adjust the position and the brake bolts until you can move the wheel and the brake doesn&apos;t make any sound. </p>
<p>Remove the reflective sticker and make the holes. Use your M6 helicoil kit to make better threaded holes and not screw all directly on the aluminum.</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/23/53/c6/34/df/FotoJet_2.jpg"></p>
                    <div><p>Make you Steel copy of the piece. Use the printed piece as a guide to make the holes and later cut out the shape of the piece. I used 5mm steel. File the piece until it fits perfectly onto the dualtron mini arm.</p>
<p>Then you can screw everything to check if all fits properly. You can use the STL of the spacer or use Spring Washers and alumminium spacers like me to put the brake caliper in its place.</p></div>
                <div><p>Paint the piece in black or the color of your choice and put the reflective sticker in its place. Screw everything again and you have your front brakes for Dualtron Mini.</p>
<p>Recommendation use: use the rear drum brake mainly and the front brake to help the rear one.</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/55/b3/f9/81/12/FotoJet_3.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/7a/5a/0c/b7/f9/FotoJet_4.jpg"></p>
</body></html>

Brake Support Guide For DualtronMini

Guide piece for a front-brake support in Dualtron Mini. DON'T USE IT DIRECTLY ON YOUR DUALTRON because printed piece are not strong enough. This is a guide to copy and make it in metal. You can use a printed spacer but not the main piece. I am not responsible for the incorrect use of this piece.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>After watching yesterday&apos;s episode, I knew I had to make this model in Blender. I included an stl and my Blend file. I will be releasing more variation and poses as well as supported models soon.</p></div>
</body></html>

Big Scary spider thing from the Mandalorian (Krykna)

After watching yesterday's episode, I knew I had to make this model in Blender. I included an stl and my Blend file. I will be releasing more variation and poses as well as supported models soon.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I needed jaw coupler that can be printed form ABS and wouldn&apos;t break after tightening the screws.</p>
<p>You can either print mold pieces and use hotglue to make elaster or print it from soft TPU.<br>
P.S I recommend you to print the mold from PLA so you can melt it after the glue has cooled </p>
<p>Requirements:<br>
4x M3 nuts<br>
4x M3X10 screws for assembly.</p>
<p>If using ABS as couplers material, then slowly tigthen the screws by length shown on photo.</p>
<p>Print result with couplers included.<br>
Anycubic i3 mega bmg direct.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+ABS&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic ABS                    </a>

                    Black
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Anti z-wobble jaw coupler

I needed jaw coupler that can be printed form ABS and wouldn't break after tightening the screws.

You can either print mold pieces and use hotglue to make elaster or print it from soft TPU.
P.S I recommend you to print the mold from PLA so you can melt it after the glue has cooled 

Requirements: 
4x M3 nuts
4x M3X10 screws for assembly.

If using ABS as couplers material, then slowly tigthen the screws by length shown on photo.

Print result with couplers included.
Anycubic i3 mega bmg direct.



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