Open-source 3D scanning brings the technology to the masses, making it cost-effective and customizable. Check out our favorite open-source 3D scanners for 2019!

5 Best Open-Source 3D Scanners | All3DP

In a big win for the open source 3D printing community, BCN3D Technologies release open source files for BCN3D Sigmax desktop 3D printer.

Open Source Files for BCN3D Sigmax 3D Printer Released | All3DP

Citing a need to protect IP and freedom to innovate, open source 3D printer manufacturer Ultimaker is now investing in defensive patents.

Ultimaker Files Defensive Patents, Abandoning Open Source? | All3DP

Open source is considered a must-have for many 3D printing enthusiasts. Check out some of the best open-source 3D printers available in 2020.

Top 10 Open-Source 3D Printers in 2020 | All3DP

A doctor in the Gaza Strip had developed a cheap but fully functional 3d printed stethoscope, outperforming expensive proprietary solutions.

Open Source 3D Printed Stethoscope Outperforms $200 Design | All3DP

One year after it was launched, the Ultimaker 3 Source Files for both Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker 3 Extended have now been released.

Ultimaker 3 Source Files Now Available to Download | All3DP

The Hangprinter is an open-source printer which has no frame but works by anchoring to the floor and hanging from the ceiling by cables.

The Open Source Hangprinter Prints Without A Frame | All3DP

US Army Research Laboratory is lightening the load for soldiers with an aluminum-based powder which can hydrolyse water. Also, 3D printable!

US Army Research Laboratory Discover Powder Energy Source | All3DP

Researchers at Rice University hacked a commercial Laser Cutter to create a cheap, open source SLS 3D Printer for regenerative medicine and experimenting.

Laser Cutter Converted Into Open Source SLS 3D Printer | All3DP

Rapiro is this world's first ever open source robot that is fully customizable, expandable, programmable and 3d printable!

Open Source Robot: Control Rapiro with Your Ubuntu Smartphone | All3DP

BCN3D Technologies announce the BCN3D Moveo, an open source 3D printed robot arm developed with the Catalonian Department of Education.

BCN3D Moveo: Fully Open Source 3D Printed Robot Arm | All3DP

It's an open source music player with an adorable name -- Bumpy -- and the shell is 3D printed on a Formlabs SLA 3D printer.

Bumpy is an Open Source 3D Printed Music Player | All3DP

Simple design for fast manufacturing of cable winders in a 3D-printer. Public&#xA0;model&#xA0;in the&#xA0;CAD&#xA0;software&#xA0;Onshape. <a href="https://cad.onshape.com/documents/7417d98125684d1583a5f29a" rel="external">https://cad.onshape.com/documents/7417d98125684d1583a5f29a</a>

Cable winder

Simple design for fast manufacturing of cable winders in a 3D-printer. Public model in the CAD software Onshape.https://cad.onshape.com/documents/7417d98125684d1583a5f29a


It integreates virtual reality. It takes dronies. It&apos;s hackable. 

ELF is your
nanocopter that fits into your pocket and high definition (HD) aerial photo
robot that anyone can capture videos and photos from the sky. ELF features both
cutting-edge technologies and fully hackable platform, all specifically
designed for ease, joyful and affordable piloting experience. 

It 
connects directly to smartphone app (iOS &amp; Android) via Bluetooth 4.0 and 
takes off in an instant when you throttle. Simplified wifi connected ELF 
VRdrone application allows you to capture special moments and share online in 
real time. No flying skills required, no stereotyped perspective, just great-looking live videos in 3D. The ELF is quite modular. The drone hull, motor mounts and supports are 3D printed. No soldering, no screw is required. Users can decide how their drone looks like depending on the personal preference.

ELF VRdrone

It integreates virtual reality. It takes dronies. It's hackable. 

ELF is your
nanocopter that fits into your pocket and high definition (HD) aerial photo
robot that anyone can capture videos and photos from the sky. ELF features both
cutting-edge technologies and fully hackable platform, all specifically
designed for ease, joyful and affordable piloting experience. 

It
connects directly to smartphone app (iOS & Android) via Bluetooth 4.0 and
takes off in an instant when you throttle. Simplified wifi connected ELF
VRdrone application allows you to capture special moments and share online in
real time. No flying skills required, no stereotyped perspective, just great-looking live videos in 3D. The ELF is quite modular. The drone hull, motor mounts and supports are 3D printed. No soldering, no screw is required. Users can decide how their drone looks like depending on the personal preference.


What I wanted to do was almost make it so your printer is still visible! So I made up some files (some printed some cnc cut) that will allow you (with whatever thickness you have) to make a acrylic case for you printer. I made it all in openscad so that you have control over what size you want your case to be.&#xA0; As of right now I do not have the files needed to cut things out. But I do have the files for if you want to print to parts and make your own walls.If you print to parts needed I will have the cut files ready in a day or two after this initial post

Printer case

What I wanted to do was almost make it so your printer is still visible! So I made up some files (some printed some cnc cut) that will allow you (with whatever thickness you have) to make a acrylic case for you printer. I made it all in openscad so that you have control over what size you want your case to be. As of right now I do not have the files needed to cut things out. But I do have the files for if you want to print to parts and make your own walls.If you print to parts needed I will have the cut files ready in a day or two after this initial post


*Update* Revised the License too GPLv3,&#xA0;added&#xA0;a&#xA0;revised&#xA0;Build Guide,&#xA0;as&#xA0;well&#xA0;as&#xA0;cleaned&#xA0;up&#xA0;the&#xA0;extruder&#xA0;mounts&#xA0;to&#xA0;included&#xA0;Hexagon and&#xA0;E3D&#xA0;mounts&#xA0;as&#xA0;well! *New* Updated release to include a revised extruder design (original is still there too!) a 2 piece printable bed, updated build guide, and the first draft of a getting started guide. Enjoy!Introducing the mapleMaker Mini V2 3D PrinterThe mapleMaker Mini introduces you to the world of additive
manufacturing and 3D printing. With your own 3D printer, your
concepts and design ideas can be translated from computer
drawings to physical objects in short period of time.

<pre><code> &lt;p&gt;The aim of this kit was to reduce costs and create an accessible,
</code></pre>

hackable, upgradeable, and ultimately, user customizable 3D Printer. We believe that a 3D printer should evolve with it&#x2019;s users needs and knowledge, and become a platform for any number of future upgrades and additions without the need for costly 
re-works or additional components. 
Check out <a href="http://www.maplemakermedia.com&#xA0;for" rel="external">www.maplemakermedia.com&#xA0;for</a> more information on the printer, the build guide, information and to pre-order printed parts kits! The mapleMaker Mini V2 features:- A large 8&quot;x6&quot;x6&quot; build volume- All metal hot end (e3d Lite6)- Completely 3D Printed frame and all major components- Simplified frame construction - Simplified printed parts components, all printable in 36 hours or less- LCD control panel and electronics enclosures 
 Ultimately though, we want to empower the next generation of 
designers, developers, and engineers by giving them the platform 
and tools to suite their needs for today, tomorrow, and well into 
the future. 

<pre><code> &lt;/p&gt;&lt;div&gt;
 &lt;div&gt;
 &lt;div&gt;
 &lt;div&gt;
 &lt;p&gt;&lt;i&gt;We are Open Source. Collaboration fuels Innovation.
</code></pre>

Create, Innovate, and Share. Notes: Included in this initial release are the original CAD drawings, STLs, configuration.h for Marlin firmware and a fully illustrated build guide. The build guide includes a complete bill of materials, reseller information, and every step required to build your printer. Video tutorials and guides on firmware configuration and set up will be posted online at <a href="http://www.maplemakermedia.com" rel="external">www.maplemakermedia.com</a>&#xA0;The guide will also be available online within the next few days at <a href="http://www.maplemakermedia.com" rel="external">www.maplemakermedia.com</a>.Electronics Notes:Electronics wise, the printer uses a standard RAMPS 1.4 install with Eric Zalms Marlin firmware: <a href="https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/" rel="external">https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/</a>Parts list:NEMA 17 48oz Stepper Motor - Quantity: 3NEMA 17 34oz Stepper Motor - Quantity: 2Flexible Coupling &#x2013; 5mm to 5mm - Quantity: 220 Tooth GT2 Pulley - Quantity: 2Open Ended 6mm GT2 Belt (2 meters) - Quantity: 1LMS8UU (Short) 8mm Linear Bearing - Quantity: 12623ZZ Ball Bearing - Quantity: 4Poloululu 4988 Stepper Drivers - Quantity: 4Endstop - Quantity: 3RAMPS 1.4 Controller - Quantity: 1Arduino Mega 2560 - Quantity: 1RAMPS LCD Display - Quantity: 130mm Cooling Fan - Quantity: 412V 5A Power Supply - Quantity: 1Thermistor Cable (1m) - Quantity: 1Endstop Cables (1m) - Quantity: 3e3D Lite6 All Metal Hot End - Quantity: 1MK8 Extruder Drive Gear - Quantity: 1Compression Spring (for Extruder &amp; bed) - Quantity: 5762mm length Linear Rods (Pack of 6) - Quantity: 1Allen Key Set - Quantity: 1Nylon Cable Ties (100 pack) - Quantity: 1Ceramic Screwdriver - Quantity: 14GB SD Card - Quantity: 1 Fasteners &amp; Threaded Rod:

You will also require the following fasteners and threaded rod to complete the build.

These items can be purchased from your local hardware retailer or online.M3X10mm Socket Cap Screw x135M3X20mm Socket Cap Screw x8M3X16mm Socket Cap Screw x8M4X10mm Socket Cap Screw x1M4X16mm Socket Cap Screw x2M5X12mm Socket Cap Screw x60M4X40mm Socket Cap Screw x14mm &#x2013; 0.7 Stainless Steel Threaded rod4mm &#x2013; 0.7 Flat nut x3

mapleMaker Mini V2 3D Printer

*Update* Revised the License too GPLv3, added a revised Build Guide, as well as cleaned up the extruder mounts to included Hexagon and E3D mounts as well!*New* Updated release to include a revised extruder design (original is still there too!) a 2 piece printable bed, updated build guide, and the first draft of a getting started guide. Enjoy!Introducing the mapleMaker Mini V2 3D PrinterThe mapleMaker Mini introduces you to the world of additive
manufacturing and 3D printing. With your own 3D printer, your
concepts and design ideas can be translated from computer
drawings to physical objects in short period of time.

 The aim of this kit was to reduce costs and create an accessible,


hackable, upgradeable, and ultimately, user customizable 3D Printer. We believe that a 3D printer should evolve with it’s users needs and knowledge, and become a platform for any number of future upgrades and additions without the need for costly
re-works or additional components.
Check out www.maplemakermedia.com for more information on the printer, the build guide, information and to pre-order printed parts kits!The mapleMaker Mini V2 features:- A large 8"x6"x6" build volume- All metal hot end (e3d Lite6)- Completely 3D Printed frame and all major components- Simplified frame construction - Simplified printed parts components, all printable in 36 hours or less- LCD control panel and electronics enclosures
 Ultimately though, we want to empower the next generation of
designers, developers, and engineers by giving them the platform
and tools to suite their needs for today, tomorrow, and well into
the future. 

 <div>
 <div>
 <div>
 <div>
 We are Open Source. Collaboration fuels Innovation.


Create, Innovate, and Share. Notes:Included in this initial release are the original CAD drawings, STLs, configuration.h for Marlin firmware and a fully illustrated build guide. The build guide includes a complete bill of materials, reseller information, and every step required to build your printer. Video tutorials and guides on firmware configuration and set up will be posted online at www.maplemakermedia.com The guide will also be available online within the next few days at www.maplemakermedia.com.Electronics Notes:Electronics wise, the printer uses a standard RAMPS 1.4 install with Eric Zalms Marlin firmware: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/Parts list:NEMA 17 48oz Stepper Motor - Quantity: 3NEMA 17 34oz Stepper Motor - Quantity: 2Flexible Coupling – 5mm to 5mm - Quantity: 220 Tooth GT2 Pulley - Quantity: 2Open Ended 6mm GT2 Belt (2 meters) - Quantity: 1LMS8UU (Short) 8mm Linear Bearing - Quantity: 12623ZZ Ball Bearing - Quantity: 4Poloululu 4988 Stepper Drivers - Quantity: 4Endstop - Quantity: 3RAMPS 1.4 Controller - Quantity: 1Arduino Mega 2560 - Quantity: 1RAMPS LCD Display - Quantity: 130mm Cooling Fan - Quantity: 412V 5A Power Supply - Quantity: 1Thermistor Cable (1m) - Quantity: 1Endstop Cables (1m) - Quantity: 3e3D Lite6 All Metal Hot End - Quantity: 1MK8 Extruder Drive Gear - Quantity: 1Compression Spring (for Extruder & bed) - Quantity: 5762mm length Linear Rods (Pack of 6) - Quantity: 1Allen Key Set - Quantity: 1Nylon Cable Ties (100 pack) - Quantity: 1Ceramic Screwdriver - Quantity: 14GB SD Card - Quantity: 1 Fasteners & Threaded Rod:

You will also require the following fasteners and threaded rod to complete the build.

These items can be purchased from your local hardware retailer or online.M3X10mm Socket Cap Screw x135M3X20mm Socket Cap Screw x8M3X16mm Socket Cap Screw x8M4X10mm Socket Cap Screw x1M4X16mm Socket Cap Screw x2M5X12mm Socket Cap Screw x60M4X40mm Socket Cap Screw x14mm – 0.7 Stainless Steel Threaded rod4mm – 0.7 Flat nut x3

This is a laboratory sample rotator designed so that can be used for tumbling as well as gentle mixing of samples in a variety of tube sizes by mixing them horizontally, vertically, or any position in between. Changing the mixing angle is fast and convenient and requires no tools. This device is has an on-board Arduino-based microcontroller incorporated so that adds the functionality of a laboratory sample shaker. These devices can be customized both mechanically and functionally as the user can simply select the operation mode on the switch or alter the code to perform custom experiments. The open source laboratory sample rotator mixer can be built by non-specialists for under US$30 and adding shaking functionality can be done for under $20 more. Thus, these open source devices are technically superior to the proprietary commercial equipment available on the market while saving over 90% of the costs. 

For a complete BOM, the code and instructions see main source page and paper here: 
* Karankumar C. Dhankani, Joshua M. Pearce. Open Source Laboratory Sample Rotator Mixer and Shaker. &apos;&apos;HardwareX&apos;&apos; 1, pp.1-12 (2017). doi:j.ohx.2016.07.001 open access <a href="http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ohx.2016.07.001" rel="external">http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ohx.2016.07.001</a>

This is but one example of how to make an Open Source Lab: <a href="http://www.appropedia.org/Open-source_Lab" rel="external">http://www.appropedia.org/Open-source_Lab</a>

Open Source Laboratory Sample Rotator Mixer and Shaker

This is a laboratory sample rotator designed so that can be used for tumbling as well as gentle mixing of samples in a variety of tube sizes by mixing them horizontally, vertically, or any position in between. Changing the mixing angle is fast and convenient and requires no tools. This device is has an on-board Arduino-based microcontroller incorporated so that adds the functionality of a laboratory sample shaker. These devices can be customized both mechanically and functionally as the user can simply select the operation mode on the switch or alter the code to perform custom experiments. The open source laboratory sample rotator mixer can be built by non-specialists for under US$30 and adding shaking functionality can be done for under $20 more. Thus, these open source devices are technically superior to the proprietary commercial equipment available on the market while saving over 90% of the costs. 

For a complete BOM, the code and instructions see main source page and paper here:
* Karankumar C. Dhankani, Joshua M. Pearce. Open Source Laboratory Sample Rotator Mixer and Shaker. ''HardwareX'' 1, pp.1-12 (2017). doi:j.ohx.2016.07.001 open access http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.ohx.2016.07.001

This is but one example of how to make an Open Source Lab: http://www.appropedia.org/Open-source_Lab


I decided to make this doorknob to put in the enclosure of my printer. 
I printed without suport but if you look well in the image you notice some irregularities during the layers of the curvature.

<iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/KZx1L1b4M-0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Doorknob

I decided to make this doorknob to put in the enclosure of my printer.
I printed without suport but if you look well in the image you notice some irregularities during the layers of the curvature.




MaplePrint Mini RepRap 3D Printer Original Developer: Ryan AdamsDate: 02/26/2015Release: 0.1Contact: @MiniMadRyan OverviewThe MaplePrint Mini is my first RepRap designed printer. The primay goal was to develop a printer that replaces the traditional rods, or laser cut frames with entirely 3d printed parts, without losing rigidity or strength. The second goal was to create a printer with a foot print much larger than 200x200x200mm, thus being printable on most 3d printers with a 200mm build volume. The overall print volume is slightly less than 100x100x80mm. With some creative engineering and swapping the extruder to a bowden set up, you could squeeze even more out of it, or modify the frame to be even larger and print bigger. Build NotesThis is the initial release of the files and source materials for this printer. There is no complete build guide at this point, but will be in the near future. However, I think you&apos;ll find the parts to be labeled clearly and the build straight forward enough. Build the outter frame, top and bottom frames, and then work your way inwards, Y axis, Z axis, and then drop your X axis in place. Most pieces on this build will only go together one way. Printing NotesThe included STLs are ready to be sliced by your favourite slicer. In the prototype, the pieces were printed in PLA plastic, with a 0.4 nozzle, with a 0.3 layer height. Print speeds vary depending on the part, and your printer, but average around 60-70mm/s. There are a lot of parts, the frame pieces alone will account for most of the printing time. Don&apos;t be surprised if it takes 60+ hours to print all the pieces. Note that each file name has the quantity needed for that specific part. In most cases, this is usually 1, but for some parts, there will need to be multiples of it printed. Hardware NotesI will admit, I went a bit crazy on screws and mountings. You are going to need a lot of screws. Thankfully, there are only 3 sizes used on the printer. The outter frame uses M5x20 cap screws, while most everything else uses M3x10 cap screws. There are several M3x20 used for the bed, and idlers on the X and Y axis. Stock up though, you will need about 30 M5, and about 150 M3x10s. All of the printed pieces&apos; screw holes were designed to thread the screw into without any tapping or post work. You shouldn&apos;t need to reem or clean out the holes if your printer is well calibrated. Mechanical NotesAside from the printed parts, the printer uses a standard assortment of pieces. In addition to the printed parts you will need 8mm linear rod. The lengths are: Z: 191mm X: 193mm Y: 200mm. You will need 2 pieces for each axis. The threaded rod is 5mm, and will need to be cut to 133mm in length. Standard 5mm couplings are used to connect the z motors to the threaded rod. The linear bearings used in this printer are of the LM8SUU type. These are your standard 8mm bearing, but are shorter, at only 17mm in length. You will need 12 of these. The motion is provided by GT2 belts with 20 tooth pulleys. You will need 2 pulleys and 1 meter of belt. The steppers used for this printer are the smaller 36oz type. These are used due to space constraints. You will need 5 of these. End stops are of the switch type and can be of any size or shape that you like, so long as it fits. There are small platforms on each of the axis&apos; designed to mount a switch too. In my case, hot glue works wonders, and has proven to hold well. You will need 3 of these. Extruder NotesThe extruder and hot end were sourced from Printrbot. The extruder used was their all metal extruder, which I used for its compact nature, and had one on hand. There are also other direct drive extruders, including a printable version of the printrbot extruder available on Thingiverse. You can adapt the extruder base plate to accept whichever you prefer. The Hot End is Ubis hot end, which again, was something I had on hand. A typical J-Head should work fine with this set up too. Note, that due to the way the extruder is mounted to the carriage, shorter hot ends may not clear the bottom of the X axis. In this case, you may want to revise the extruder carrier or use the included CAD files and find the other base that was designed. This will move the extruder motor from on-top of the X axis, to in front of it, but should allow you to re-position things so that hot ends such as the e3d or Hexagon to be used. Electronics NotesElectronics wise, the printer uses a standard RAMPS 1.4 install with Eric Zalms Marlin firmware: <a href="https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/" rel="external">https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/</a> I have included a quick and dirty config.h to get you up and running. Power wise, I used a cheap 12v laptop style brick to bring things to life. Parts listThis is by no means a complete list of every part you will need, but as this is the first release, its a quick and dirty summary of the parts used. For this project, most parts were sourced through <a href="http://www.FolgerTech.com" rel="external">www.FolgerTech.com</a>, and <a href="http://www.printrbot.com" rel="external">www.printrbot.com</a>. Screws came from Fastenal and local suppliers. I will revise this list in future revisions. M5x20 (30)M3x10 (150)M3x20 (8)8mm Linear Rod (1 meter should do)5mm threaded rod (500 mm will do)GT2 Pulley, 16 or 20 tooth (2)GT2 Belt (6mm) (1 meter)5mm to 5mm couplings (2)NEMA 17 36oz motors (5)5mm bearings (5 or so)8mm LM8SUU linearing bearings (12)RAMPS 1.4 (1)Arduino Mega 2560 (1)Polulu Stepper drivers (4)30mm fans (3) (digikey has these)Micro switches (3)Hot end (Ubis recommended) (1)Printrbot Metal Extruder (1) MiscThis is my first go at a custom printer, and as expected there are some designs and stuff that could be improved. As part of releasing this, anyone is free to modify and update the designs. While not included in the first release, there will be a proper parts list and build guide coming in the next while. Note on CAD: The CAD drawings were originally drawn in AutoCAD 2013, and contain everything that was used. There are 2 included CAD files. The first, MaplePrint_Mini_R_Plate is the primary file, this contains every component of the printer laid out in &apos;plated&apos; format, that is, every part is rotated and postioned for printing. This also includes the latest revision of parts. The second file, MaplePrint_Mini_R, is mainly a visulation of the entire printer assembled, and DOES NOT include the latest revisions of some parts. While there are not major differences between the newsest revisions and older, it is best to always use the Plate file when editing or viewing a part. If I have forgotten anything or you need to know anything more, drop me a message on Twitter, at @MiniMadRyan. I hope you enjoy the build and the printer as much as I did, and I hope you&apos;re excited to see what is coming next! Print. Build. Print Again.

MaplePrint Mini 3D Printer

MaplePrint Mini RepRap 3D Printer Original Developer: Ryan AdamsDate: 02/26/2015Release: 0.1Contact: @MiniMadRyanOverviewThe MaplePrint Mini is my first RepRap designed printer. The primay goal was to develop a printer that replaces the traditional rods, or laser cut frames with entirely 3d printed parts, without losing rigidity or strength. The second goal was to create a printer with a foot print much larger than 200x200x200mm, thus being printable on most 3d printers with a 200mm build volume. The overall print volume is slightly less than 100x100x80mm. With some creative engineering and swapping the extruder to a bowden set up, you could squeeze even more out of it, or modify the frame to be even larger and print bigger.Build NotesThis is the initial release of the files and source materials for this printer. There is no complete build guide at this point, but will be in the near future. However, I think you'll find the parts to be labeled clearly and the build straight forward enough. Build the outter frame, top and bottom frames, and then work your way inwards, Y axis, Z axis, and then drop your X axis in place. Most pieces on this build will only go together one way. Printing NotesThe included STLs are ready to be sliced by your favourite slicer. In the prototype, the pieces were printed in PLA plastic, with a 0.4 nozzle, with a 0.3 layer height. Print speeds vary depending on the part, and your printer, but average around 60-70mm/s. There are a lot of parts, the frame pieces alone will account for most of the printing time. Don't be surprised if it takes 60+ hours to print all the pieces. Note that each file name has the quantity needed for that specific part. In most cases, this is usually 1, but for some parts, there will need to be multiples of it printed. Hardware NotesI will admit, I went a bit crazy on screws and mountings. You are going to need a lot of screws. Thankfully, there are only 3 sizes used on the printer. The outter frame uses M5x20 cap screws, while most everything else uses M3x10 cap screws. There are several M3x20 used for the bed, and idlers on the X and Y axis. Stock up though, you will need about 30 M5, and about 150 M3x10s. All of the printed pieces' screw holes were designed to thread the screw into without any tapping or post work. You shouldn't need to reem or clean out the holes if your printer is well calibrated. Mechanical NotesAside from the printed parts, the printer uses a standard assortment of pieces. In addition to the printed parts you will need 8mm linear rod. The lengths are: Z: 191mm X: 193mm Y: 200mm. You will need 2 pieces for each axis. The threaded rod is 5mm, and will need to be cut to 133mm in length. Standard 5mm couplings are used to connect the z motors to the threaded rod.The linear bearings used in this printer are of the LM8SUU type. These are your standard 8mm bearing, but are shorter, at only 17mm in length. You will need 12 of these. The motion is provided by GT2 belts with 20 tooth pulleys. You will need 2 pulleys and 1 meter of belt. The steppers used for this printer are the smaller 36oz type. These are used due to space constraints. You will need 5 of these. End stops are of the switch type and can be of any size or shape that you like, so long as it fits. There are small platforms on each of the axis' designed to mount a switch too. In my case, hot glue works wonders, and has proven to hold well. You will need 3 of these. Extruder NotesThe extruder and hot end were sourced from Printrbot. The extruder used was their all metal extruder, which I used for its compact nature, and had one on hand. There are also other direct drive extruders, including a printable version of the printrbot extruder available on Thingiverse. You can adapt the extruder base plate to accept whichever you prefer. The Hot End is Ubis hot end, which again, was something I had on hand. A typical J-Head should work fine with this set up too. Note, that due to the way the extruder is mounted to the carriage, shorter hot ends may not clear the bottom of the X axis. In this case, you may want to revise the extruder carrier or use the included CAD files and find the other base that was designed. This will move the extruder motor from on-top of the X axis, to in front of it, but should allow you to re-position things so that hot ends such as the e3d or Hexagon to be used. Electronics NotesElectronics wise, the printer uses a standard RAMPS 1.4 install with Eric Zalms Marlin firmware: https://github.com/ErikZalm/Marlin/I have included a quick and dirty config.h to get you up and running. Power wise, I used a cheap 12v laptop style brick to bring things to life. Parts listThis is by no means a complete list of every part you will need, but as this is the first release, its a quick and dirty summary of the parts used. For this project, most parts were sourced through www.FolgerTech.com, and www.printrbot.com. Screws came from Fastenal and local suppliers. I will revise this list in future revisions.M5x20 (30)M3x10 (150)M3x20 (8)8mm Linear Rod (1 meter should do)5mm threaded rod (500 mm will do)GT2 Pulley, 16 or 20 tooth (2)GT2 Belt (6mm) (1 meter)5mm to 5mm couplings (2)NEMA 17 36oz motors (5)5mm bearings (5 or so)8mm LM8SUU linearing bearings (12)RAMPS 1.4 (1)Arduino Mega 2560 (1)Polulu Stepper drivers (4)30mm fans (3) (digikey has these)Micro switches (3)Hot end (Ubis recommended) (1)Printrbot Metal Extruder (1)MiscThis is my first go at a custom printer, and as expected there are some designs and stuff that could be improved. As part of releasing this, anyone is free to modify and update the designs. While not included in the first release, there will be a proper parts list and build guide coming in the next while.Note on CAD:The CAD drawings were originally drawn in AutoCAD 2013, and contain everything that was used. There are 2 included CAD files. The first, MaplePrint_Mini_R_Plate is the primary file, this contains every component of the printer laid out in 'plated' format, that is, every part is rotated and postioned for printing. This also includes the latest revision of parts. The second file, MaplePrint_Mini_R, is mainly a visulation of the entire printer assembled, and DOES NOT include the latest revisions of some parts. While there are not major differences between the newsest revisions and older, it is best to always use the Plate file when editing or viewing a part. If I have forgotten anything or you need to know anything more, drop me a message on Twitter, at @MiniMadRyan. I hope you enjoy the build and the printer as much as I did, and I hope you're excited to see what is coming next!Print. Build. Print Again. 


This is a remix of: Graber i3.

This design was made to replace all printed parts in the frame. 
Every effort is made out of 6 mm plywood or acrylic.

BILL OF MATERIALS

Bolts:

2 X M3 X 25MM (Z endstop) 
4 X M3 X 35MM (bed levelling) 
1 X M3 X 12MM 
1 X M3 X 25MM 
3 X M3 X 30MM Ramps 1.4 
22 X M3 X 10MM (motors, belts, hotend lock) 
58 X M4 X 20MM 
12 X M4 X 16MM 
6 X M4 X 12MM

2 X M5 X 300MM threaded bar 
3 X M8 X 130MM threaded bar (filament spool) 
1 X M8 X 50

Nuts

2 x M5 
76 X M4 
33 x M3 
12 X M8

Smooth rods 8MM 
I buy here <a href="http://alipromo.com/redirect/cpa/o/oe7al6eh95yvt1zqcg2mn3377l58jwtp/" rel="external">http://alipromo.com/redirect/cpa/o/oe7al6eh95yvt1zqcg2mn3377l58jwtp/</a>

2 X 330MM 
2 X 380MM 
2 X 400MM

2 X 624ZZ ball bearing 
1 X 608ZZ ball bearing

Plywoodbot

This is a remix of: Graber i3.

This design was made to replace all printed parts in the frame.
Every effort is made out of 6 mm plywood or acrylic.

BILL OF MATERIALS

Bolts:

2 X M3 X 25MM (Z endstop)
4 X M3 X 35MM (bed levelling)
1 X M3 X 12MM
1 X M3 X 25MM
3 X M3 X 30MM Ramps 1.4
22 X M3 X 10MM (motors, belts, hotend lock)
58 X M4 X 20MM
12 X M4 X 16MM
6 X M4 X 12MM

2 X M5 X 300MM threaded bar
3 X M8 X 130MM threaded bar (filament spool)
1 X M8 X 50

Nuts

2 x M5
76 X M4
33 x M3
12 X M8

Smooth rods 8MM
I buy here http://alipromo.com/redirect/cpa/o/oe7al6eh95yvt1zqcg2mn3377l58jwtp/

2 X 330MM
2 X 380MM
2 X 400MM

2 X 624ZZ ball bearing
1 X 608ZZ ball bearing


This G-code file is a fast print version of the case at 200 microns layer thickness. It&apos;s takes 2h30 to 3D print it. You could really increase the quality of the print by reducing the speed to 50 mm/s or lower. Don&apos;t hesitate to remake it, transform it, etc. You could add sensors to it and use it as a device for HMI, you could just draw a foldable stand to watch videos on it, add a ring for a key-chain&#x2026;No limits! Romain

iPhone5 case by romain di vozzo

This G-code file is a fast print version of the case at 200 microns layer thickness. It's takes 2h30 to 3D print it. You could really increase the quality of the print by reducing the speed to 50 mm/s or lower. Don't hesitate to remake it, transform it, etc. You could add sensors to it and use it as a device for HMI, you could just draw a foldable stand to watch videos on it, add a ring for a key-chain…No limits!Romain


I recommend printing the first 10mm in gray or black and last 2mm in red The logo came from this source:&#xA0;<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4390" rel="external">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4390</a>

Anti-Makerbot Logo

I recommend printing the first 10mm in gray or black and last 2mm in redThe logo came from this source: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4390


Open source files: <a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2" rel="external">https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2</a> 
Firmware: <a href="https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin" rel="external">https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin</a>

At March 28th, Ultimaker released the Ultimaker 2 source files to the world, as promised when the 3D printer was introduced 6 months earlier. From day one, we have been recognized for our open source culture and we feel that open source brings the field of 3D printing to a higher level. It is our firm belief that sharing knowledge does not mean losing knowledge. On the contrary, we learn from each other, inspire each other and use each other&#x2019;s knowledge to create even better products and develop impressive innovations world-wide.

We are excited to see what kind of ideas, innovations, improvements and products this will lead to. We will continue to share our knowledge and experience and look forward to achieving many remarkable 3D printing goals together. Or in the words of Martijn Elserman, co-founder of Ultimaker: &#x201C;Since its introduction, the Ultimaker 2 received a very positive response and its demand has been beyond expectation. This strengthens our confidence in our philosophy to innovate and improve together with the worldwide community of 3D printer enthousiasts.&quot;

For more information about the Ultimaker 2, see: <a href="https://www.ultimaker.com" rel="external">https://www.ultimaker.com</a>

Ultimaker 2 Source files

Open source files:  https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2
Firmware: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Marlin

At March 28th, Ultimaker released the Ultimaker 2 source files to the world, as promised when the 3D printer was introduced 6 months earlier. From day one, we have been recognized for our open source culture and we feel that open source brings the field of 3D printing to a higher level. It is our firm belief that sharing knowledge does not mean losing knowledge. On the contrary, we learn from each other, inspire each other and use each other’s knowledge to create even better products and develop impressive innovations world-wide.

We are excited to see what kind of ideas, innovations, improvements and products this will lead to. We will continue to share our knowledge and experience and look forward to achieving many remarkable 3D printing goals together. Or in the words of Martijn Elserman, co-founder of Ultimaker: “Since its introduction, the Ultimaker 2 received a very positive response and its demand has been beyond expectation. This strengthens our confidence in our philosophy to innovate and improve together with the worldwide community of 3D printer enthousiasts."

For more information about the Ultimaker 2, see: https://www.ultimaker.com


Source STEP files of the Ultimaker 2 ( <a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-source-files" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-source-files</a> )&#xA0; converted to stl.

Ultimaker 2 Source STL files

Source STEP files of the Ultimaker 2 ( https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-source-files )  converted to stl.


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