The Shapeoko 3 XXL from Carbide 3D is a large CNC router kit that is easy to assemble and use, making it the choice for us. Check out our review to find out if it could also be the choice for you.

Shapeoko 3 XXL Review: Editor's Choice | All3DP

SainSmart goes big with its Genmitsu ProverXL 4030, a Shapeoko-style CNC router with improved controls, a large wasteboard, and easy assembly.

SainSmart Genmitsu ProverXL 4030: Specs, Price, Release & Reviews | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><hr>PwnCNC believes in our Makers community and is working to bring together non-printed parts and other items to help you make this or any of our things: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://pwncnc.com/make">https://pwncnc.com/make</a>
Need hardware to make this thing? <a rel="nofollow" href="https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/speedmount-touch-plate-hw">https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/speedmount-touch-plate-hw</a>
If you&apos;d prefer to purchase it... you can buy it here: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/speedmount-touch-plate">https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/speedmount-touch-plate</a>
<hr>Do you have one of the PwnCNC Z-Independent bracketing systems and using one of our dust boots? If you answered yes, then this thing is for you!
This is part of our SpeedMount system that lets you attach accessories right onto the top of any of our z-independent bracketing systems.
In this case, it is a super simple receiver hole for the X-Carve Touch Probe plug. This Touch-Plate will let you move the touch probe plug to either side of your X-Carve or if you&apos;ve upgraded using the cnc4newbie&apos;s Ultimate Upgrade kit... you can use continue to use that convenient plug location.</div>
</body></html>

SpeedMount Touch-Plate

------------------------
PwnCNC believes in our Makers community and is working to bring together non-printed parts and other items to help you make this or any of our things: https://pwncnc.com/make

Need hardware to make this thing?
https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/speedmount-touch-plate-hw

If you'd prefer to purchase it... you can buy it here: https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/speedmount-touch-plate

------------------------


Do you have one of the PwnCNC Z-Independent bracketing systems and using one of our dust boots?  If you answered yes, then this thing is for you!

This is part of our SpeedMount system that lets you attach accessories right onto the top of any of our z-independent bracketing systems.

In this case, it is a super simple receiver hole for the X-Carve Touch Probe plug.  This Touch-Plate will let you move the touch probe plug to either side of your X-Carve or if you've upgraded using the cnc4newbie's Ultimate Upgrade kit... you can use continue to use that convenient plug location.



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div>This is a model of the Carbide3D Gator Clamp. You can use the step file in Fusion 360 as a fixture so the toolpath avoids hitting them.</div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
Printer Brand: 
 <div>Creality</div>
 
 Printer: 
 <div>Ender 3 Pro</div>
 
 Rafts: 
 <div>No</div>
 
 Supports: 
 <div>Yes</div>
 
 Resolution: 
 <div>0.16</div>
 
 Infill: 
 <div>25%</div>
 
 Filament: 
 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=N%2Fa+N%2Fa&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
 N/a N/a </a>

 Black
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Gator Clamp

This is a model of the Carbide3D Gator Clamp. You can use the step file in Fusion 360 as a fixture so the toolpath avoids hitting them.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><hr>PwnCNC believes in our Makers community and is working to bring together non-printed parts and other items to help you make this or any of our things: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://pwncnc.com/make">https://pwncnc.com/make</a>
If you&apos;d rather purchase this thing vs making it yourself, you&apos;ll find it listed here: 
<a rel="nofollow" href="https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/fences-mini">https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/fences-mini</a>
<hr>PwnCNC Fences (Mini) are a wonderful addition to your carving experience. They are carefully designed for folks with hybrid t-slot and wood slat spoil boards like those on the Shapeoko 3 Pro. 
The corners are 3&quot; x 3&quot; while the edges are 3&quot; wide. 
All fences feature an extremely low-profile as well as recessed holes to keep the head of the mounting screws below the surface and out of the way.</div>
</body></html>

Fences (Mini)

------------------------
PwnCNC believes in our Makers community and is working to bring together non-printed parts and other items to help you make this or any of our things: https://pwncnc.com/make

If you'd rather purchase this thing vs making it yourself, you'll find it listed here: 

https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/fences-mini

------------------------

PwnCNC Fences (Mini) are a wonderful addition to your carving experience.  They are carefully designed for folks with hybrid t-slot and wood slat spoil boards like those on the Shapeoko 3 Pro.
The corners are 3" x 3" while the edges are 3" wide.  

All fences feature an extremely low-profile as well as recessed holes to keep the head of the mounting screws below the surface and out of the way.


Here are all the parts we designed for our upgrade of the Shapeoko CNC at Amiens&apos;s FabLab&#xA0;<a href="http://etoele.com/" rel="external">http://etoele.com/</a> More informations and pictures on&#xA0;<a href="http://etoele.com/enlarge-your-shapeoko/" rel="external">http://etoele.com/enlarge-your-shapeoko/</a> (In french)

Upgrade for large Shapeoko

Here are all the parts we designed for our upgrade of the Shapeoko CNC at Amiens's FabLab http://etoele.com/More informations and pictures on http://etoele.com/enlarge-your-shapeoko/(In french)


To install:Use 4 x 10mm M5 bolts and nuts to secure the printed part to the end plate.Remove the Grbl shield if its attached to the Arduino.Then secure the Arduino to the printed part using 3 x 10mm M3 bolts. I didn&apos;t use the fourth hole because the caps of my bolts were to big and would have interfered with the header pins on the Arduino.Reattach the Grbl shieldI used a zip tie through the long hole in the bottom of the printed part and the end plate to secure and relieve strain on the cablesI also zip tied the power cable to the bottom of the end plate to relieve stress there too.

Shapeoko 2 Arduino Mount

To install:Use 4 x 10mm M5 bolts and nuts to secure the printed part to the end plate.Remove the Grbl shield if its attached to the Arduino.Then secure the Arduino to the printed part using 3 x 10mm M3 bolts. I didn't use the fourth hole because the caps of my bolts were to big and would have interfered with the header pins on the Arduino.Reattach the Grbl shieldI used a zip tie through the long hole in the bottom of the printed part and the end plate to secure and relieve strain on the cablesI also zip tied the power cable to the bottom of the end plate to relieve stress there too.


I like my clamps to stay low as I need some space for my dust suction system as 

well

Included are 2 sizes of blocks and 2 sizes of clamps, all for M5 nuts. 
They&apos;re easy to modify using the supplied step file.

FYI, someone made a mod to M6 here; 
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1746079" rel="external">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1746079</a>

Low profile step block clamps for CNC

I like my clamps to stay low as I need some space for my dust suction system as 

well

Included are 2 sizes of blocks and 2 sizes of clamps, all for M5 nuts. 
They're easy to modify using the supplied step file.

FYI, someone made a mod to M6 here;
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1746079


In order to mount the electronics of the Shapeoko onto the Y carriage you need an adapter so I decided to make the silliest ones I could (that still work fine).You can either print the straight through version and tap the plastic using an M3 tap (like I did) or print the one with M3 nut traps and use it that way (untested).

Gratuitously curvaceous Shapeoko electronic mount

In order to mount the electronics of the Shapeoko onto the Y carriage you need an adapter so I decided to make the silliest ones I could (that still work fine).You can either print the straight through version and tap the plastic using an M3 tap (like I did) or print the one with M3 nut traps and use it that way (untested).


** update september 2016 ** 
added two V2 components, to accommodate the new Z plate 
* 
*

This dust shoe does not go up and down with the router, so there&apos;s almost no friction on the brushes, they basically are only used the accommodate space for clamping.

In the video you see the fully printed version (I&apos;m cutting the alu part). In the pictures you see the alu version with quick release. 
<iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/qqE4M-P-Seg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The tube inlet is 40mm, the size of my &quot;triton dust collection bucket&quot; - 

You can use the fully printed version, but the version with an aluminium mounting bar is much stiffer. 
As you have a shapeoko to cut the aluminium I would advice you make the aluminium version. You need 15x15mm aluminium.

The aluminium version is meant to be used with a quick release for easy adjustment of the height. You get these types of quick release at the bike store, I used one meant to clamp the saddle. I&#xA0;used&#xA0;brushes&#xA0;meant&#xA0;to&#xA0;mount&#xA0;on&#xA0;a&#xA0;letterbox,&#xA0;cut&#xA0;to&#xA0;size,&#xA0;they&#xA0;snap&#xA0;fit,&#xA0;I&#xA0;actually&#xA0;had&#xA0;to&#xA0;hammer&#xA0;them&#xA0;in...

Shapeoko3 dust shoe with quick release - V2

** update september 2016 **
added two V2 components, to accommodate the new Z plate
*
*

This dust shoe does not go up and down with the router, so there's almost no friction on the brushes, they basically are only used the accommodate space for clamping.

In the video you see the fully printed version (I'm cutting the alu part). In the pictures you see the alu version with quick release.


The tube inlet is 40mm, the size of my "triton dust collection bucket" - 

You can use the fully printed version, but the version with an aluminium mounting bar is much stiffer.
As you have a shapeoko to cut the aluminium I would advice you make the aluminium version. You need 15x15mm aluminium.

The aluminium version is meant to be used with a quick release for easy adjustment of the height. You get these types of quick release at the bike store, I used one meant to clamp the saddle.I used brushes meant to mount on a letterbox, cut to size, they snap fit, I actually had to hammer them in...


I printed this on it&apos;s side with support. Had to do a little filing to get the small pins to snap in. If they don&apos;t print good for u, just snip them off, drill holes and mount with 3mm bolt and nuts.

Shapeoko2 Snap on drag chain connector

I printed this on it's side with support. Had to do a little filing to get the small pins to snap in. If they don't print good for u, just snip them off, drill holes and mount with 3mm bolt and nuts.


Large scale shapeoko, mixed with openbuilds rails (I should of just started with openbuilds system IMHO), but I decided the y rails could use some support so made this from a mash up of openbuilds source files.... I plan on just tapping the sides to add a shield on these. I have 3 per side... I&apos;ll add some better photos in a few days. sy

Shapeoko / MegaOko Support

Large scale shapeoko, mixed with openbuilds rails (I should of just started with openbuilds system IMHO), but I decided the y rails could use some support so made this from a mash up of openbuilds source files....  I plan on just tapping the sides to add a shield on these. I have 3 per side... I'll add some better photos in a few days.  sy


These pieces go on the Y-axis end plate, preferably the one to which you&apos;ve already attached your controller, so that the wiring is minimal. One bolts to the inside of the end plate so that the X-axis plate will hit the switch before it hits anything else. Wires come back through the tiny open bits of slot next to the makerslide ends. Second has a slot in it to fit the angled edge of the end plate. You will need to bolt some kind of spacer onto the rail end plate to meet it. All in openscad so you can adjust for the size of your microswitches or the tolerance of your 3D printer. 

UPDATE: I&apos;ve fixed the Y-axis stop so the microswitch lines up with the hole in the long-rail end plate. Pretty much any kind of bolt in there should trip it. Also added a Z-axis stop setup consisting of a holder for a switch that sits on the bed and an adjustable probe that bolts to the Z carriage next to the spindle holders.

Shapeoko 2 endstop mounts -- updated

These pieces go on the Y-axis end plate, preferably the one to which you've already attached your controller, so that the wiring is minimal. One bolts to the inside of the end plate so that the X-axis plate will hit the switch before it hits anything else. Wires come back through the tiny open bits of slot next to the makerslide ends. Second has a slot in it to fit the angled edge of the end plate. You will need to bolt some kind of spacer onto the rail end plate to meet it. All in openscad so you can adjust for the size of your microswitches or the tolerance of your 3D printer.

UPDATE: I've fixed the Y-axis stop so the microswitch lines up with the hole in the long-rail end plate. Pretty much any kind of bolt in there should trip it. Also added a Z-axis stop setup consisting of a holder for a switch that sits on the bed and an adjustable probe that bolts to the Z carriage next to the spindle holders.


I got tired of manually vacuuming up aluminum shavings. &#xA0;I also wanted to see what the spindle was cutting, so I designed this simple dust shoe.video: &#xA0;<iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/g-1gC-2h44s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>You&apos;ll probably have to drill out the holes for the LEDs, just make sure you don&apos;t go all the way as there is a stopper at the end to keep the LED in place. &#xA0;If the LED&apos;s don&apos;t fit you may have to ream out the 5mm portion after the stopper as well. &#xA0;Same goes for the endoscope. &#xA0;It should be a friction fit.Wiring up the LED&apos;s should be very simple. &#xA0;Wire them in series. &#xA0;Calculate your resistor value with this online tool: <a href="http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz" rel="external">http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz</a>&#xA0; &#xA0; Then simply wire this to your power supply and you&apos;re done.Once you cut the skirt, place the dust shoe on the spindle, then wrap the skirt and ziptie it on. &#xA0;The ziptie holds the skirt on, but also helps to hold the shoe on the spindle. &#xA0; And&#xA0;Youmagine&#xA0;is&#xA0;corrupting&#xA0;my&#xA0;.dwg&#xA0;files. &#xA0;D: I&#xA0;uploaded&#xA0;.step&#xA0;files&#xA0;for&#xA0;you&#xA0;to&#xA0;play&#xA0;with. &#xA0;:D

Spindle View Dust Shoe for 64mm spindle

I got tired of manually vacuuming up aluminum shavings.  I also wanted to see what the spindle was cutting, so I designed this simple dust shoe.video:  You'll probably have to drill out the holes for the LEDs, just make sure you don't go all the way as there is a stopper at the end to keep the LED in place.  If the LED's don't fit you may have to ream out the 5mm portion after the stopper as well.  Same goes for the endoscope.  It should be a friction fit.Wiring up the LED's should be very simple.  Wire them in series.  Calculate your resistor value with this online tool: http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz    Then simply wire this to your power supply and you're done.Once you cut the skirt, place the dust shoe on the spindle, then wrap the skirt and ziptie it on.  The ziptie holds the skirt on, but also helps to hold the shoe on the spindle.  And Youmagine is corrupting my .dwg files.  D:I uploaded .step files for you to play with.  :D


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