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<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Tool for testing of tolerance of shaft (5mm) and a set of holes (between 5mm and 5.3mm)</p></div>
</body></html>

Shaft and hole tolerance tester

Tool for testing of tolerance of shaft (5mm) and a set of holes (between 5mm and 5.3mm)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Hi friends,</p>
<p>In this project, I made 3-speed gearbox using my printer Tevo Tarantula and Fusion 360 software. &quot;There is no clutch in the gearbox. For this reason, gears are hardly engaged.&quot; </p>
<p>I made a video about this project assembly and testing and shared it on my youtube channel. </p>
<p>&#x2022; You can watch it here: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0h1hxD0WU48">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0h1hxD0WU48</a></p>
<h3>Part List</h3>
<p>&#x2022; 21toothCircularShaft </p>
<p>&#x2022;15toothCircularShaft</p>
<p>&#x2022;10toothCircularShaft</p>
<p>&#x2022;21toothSquareShaft</p>
<p>&#x2022;16toothSquareShaft</p>
<p>&#x2022;10toothSquareShaft</p>
<p>&#x2022;OutputShaft</p>
<p>&#x2022;InputShaft</p>
<p>&#x2022;ShaftPin (x3)</p>
<p>&#x2022;Case</p>
<p>&#x2022;InputShaftFix (x2)</p>
<p>&#x2022;InputShaftSpacer (x4)</p>
<p>&#x2022;OutputShaftFix (x2)</p>
<p>&#x2022;Arm</p>
<p>10 teeth with the smallest gear. The corresponding wheel is 20 teeth. In other words, the reduction ratio is 2. Similarly, the reduction ratio is 2. In order to increase the speed, there are gear wheels with the same number of teeth in the 3-speed option. In other words, the input and output shafts have the same speed and torque value. </p>
<p>&#x2022;   In the 1st stage, the torque doubles and the speed decreases 2 times.<br>
&#x2022;   In the second stage, torque decreases 2 times, speed increases 2 times.<br>
&#x2022;   In the third stage, torque and speed do not change.</p>
<p>&#xF0FC; The modulus of all the gears I use in this 3-speed gearbox is m = 1.5 mm. I also used spur gears. I did not use helical gears. Because in the helical gears there is also an axial force and this creates a problem for us in this project.</p>
<p>&#xF0FC; I printed spacers so that the gears match each other exactly. These and gears exactly overlap each other. </p>
<p>&#xF0FC; The bearings I used are 608zz type bearing. Inner diameter is 8 mm.</p>
<p>&#xF0FC; I used &quot; PLA+ &quot; as a material and set the nozzle temperature 205 degrees and the plate temperature 40 degrees. </p>
<p>&#xF0FC; Layer height 0.16 mm, infill 100% for moving parts, 25% for fixed parts </p>
<p>&#xF0FC; I used Simplify3d software as slicer.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>TEVO</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Tarantula</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16 mm</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Uzaras+%2B+PLA%2B&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Uzaras + PLA+                    </a>

                    Black, orange, red
</body></html>

3- Speed Gearbox / Transmission 

Hi friends,

In this project, I made 3-speed gearbox using my printer Tevo Tarantula and Fusion 360 software. "There is no clutch in the gearbox. For this reason, gears are hardly engaged." 

I made a video about this project assembly and testing and shared it on my youtube channel. 

• You can watch it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0h1hxD0WU48

Part List
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
• 21toothCircularShaft 

•15toothCircularShaft

•10toothCircularShaft

•21toothSquareShaft

•16toothSquareShaft

•10toothSquareShaft

•OutputShaft

•InputShaft

•ShaftPin (x3)

•Case

•InputShaftFix (x2)

•InputShaftSpacer (x4)

•OutputShaftFix (x2)

•Arm


10 teeth with the smallest gear. The corresponding wheel is 20 teeth. In other words, the reduction ratio is 2. Similarly, the reduction ratio is 2. In order to increase the speed, there are gear wheels with the same number of teeth in the 3-speed option. In other words, the input and output shafts have the same speed and torque value. 

•	In the 1st stage, the torque doubles and the speed decreases 2 times.
•	In the second stage, torque decreases 2 times, speed increases 2 times.
•	In the third stage, torque and speed do not change.

 The modulus of all the gears I use in this 3-speed gearbox is m = 1.5 mm. I also used spur gears. I did not use helical gears. Because in the helical gears there is also an axial force and this creates a problem for us in this project.

 I printed spacers so that the gears match each other exactly. These and gears exactly overlap each other. 

 The bearings I used are 608zz type bearing. Inner diameter is 8 mm.

 I used " PLA+ " as a material and set the nozzle temperature 205 degrees and the plate temperature 40 degrees. 

 Layer height 0.16 mm, infill 100% for moving parts, 25% for fixed parts 

 I used Simplify3d software as slicer.


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Recomended motor for this plane was not available, so i bought FOXY G3 Brushless Motor C2012-2000, but it had no prop shaft and i could not get anything that fits the motor and recomended propeler. So i designed propshaft to be printed and it works very well. There is also nose cone redesigned and motor mount that fits this motor.</p>
<p>you will need M4 nut to secure the nosecone</p>
<p>i printed motormount from ABS<br>
nosecone from LW-PLA<br>
shaft (kuzelJ2.stl) from normal PLA</p></div>
</body></html>

3DLabprint Bungee Prop mod

Recomended motor for this plane was not available, so i bought FOXY G3 Brushless Motor C2012-2000, but it had no prop shaft and i could not get anything that fits the motor and recomended propeler. So i designed propshaft to be printed and it works very well. There is also nose cone redesigned and motor mount that fits this motor.

you will need M4 nut to secure the nosecone

i printed motormount from ABS
nosecone from LW-PLA
shaft (kuzelJ2.stl) from normal PLA

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Hi everyone, </p>
<p>First of all i have a video about this project on my youtube channel. I think you should assemble it by watching the video. </p>
<p>Here is the link: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klcB5OxXbkE">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klcB5OxXbkE</a></p>
<p>I designed a 2 stroke engine model in this project. It can be completely printed with a 3d printer. You don&apos;t need any extra parts. </p>
<p>Piston diameter 25 mm and stroke 25 mm. Thus, it has a cylinder volume of 12.25 cc.<br>
The bearings I use are 608zz type and have 8 mm inner diameter. (From those used in standard stress wheels).</p>
<hr><p>IMPORTANT<br>
Some parts have 2 versions. One is in full section and the other is in half section. I have added two versions, you can print the way you want.</p>
<p>Also, in some printers, the circle shape may not be exactly as desired. For this I have also added the tolerant shape of the pins. If your printer can print a 3mm diameter circle exactly 3mm, use 3mm diameter pins. Otherwise, use 2.5 mm pins.<br>
Besides, I used glue to join the pieces together. </p>
<p>If you have any problems please leave a comment.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>TEVO</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Tarantula</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=uzaras+PLA%2B&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        uzaras PLA+                    </a>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<div><p>You can watch the video<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klcB5OxXbkE">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klcB5OxXbkE</a></p></div>
</body></html>

Fully 3D Printable 2 Stroke Engine Model 

Hi everyone, 

First of all i have a video about this project on my youtube channel. I think you should assemble it by watching the video. 

Here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=klcB5OxXbkE

I designed a 2 stroke engine model in this project. It can be completely printed with a 3d printer. You don't need any extra parts. 

Piston diameter 25 mm and stroke 25 mm. Thus, it has a cylinder volume of 12.25 cc. 
The bearings I use are 608zz type and have 8 mm inner diameter. (From those used in standard stress wheels).

-------------------------------------------

IMPORTANT
Some parts have 2 versions. One is in full section and the other is in half section. I have added two versions, you can print the way you want.

Also, in some printers, the circle shape may not be exactly as desired. For this I have also added the tolerant shape of the pins. If your printer can print a 3mm diameter circle exactly 3mm, use 3mm diameter pins. Otherwise, use 2.5 mm pins. 
Besides, I used glue to join the pieces together. 

If you have any problems please leave a comment.


<p>Parametric design: collar for 8mm smooth shaft, with option for one or more M3 setscrews. Updated design can be adjusted for any diameter shaft, setscrew size, and number of setscrews in the SCAD file.&#xA0; You can get asymmetric by setting a non-integer number of setscrews.<br><strong><em><br>Normally one setscrew is enough, and may be more secure. Two screws may allow the collar to pivot slightly on the screw points, but could be used with one longer cross bolt all the way through, if the shaft has a slot or cross-bore.<br></em></strong><br>Currently adjusted to be quite close to nominal 8 mm so may need some cleanup / reaming to fit, and especially the M3 setscrew holes which come out a little D-shaped due to unsupported overhang.</p>


8mm shaft collar

Parametric design: collar for 8mm smooth shaft, with option for one or more M3 setscrews. Updated design can be adjusted for any diameter shaft, setscrew size, and number of setscrews in the SCAD file.  You can get asymmetric by setting a non-integer number of setscrews.Normally one setscrew is enough, and may be more secure. Two screws may allow the collar to pivot slightly on the screw points, but could be used with one longer cross bolt all the way through, if the shaft has a slot or cross-bore.Currently adjusted to be quite close to nominal 8 mm so may need some cleanup / reaming to fit, and especially the M3 setscrew holes which come out a little D-shaped due to unsupported overhang.


<p>Encoder wheel for a simple 1-channel, or quadrature shaft encoder. STL files for 5 mm and 8 mm diameter shafts,  OpenSCAD file for any custom size. I used two 0603 LED-phototransistor pairs with 0.200&quot; spacing for a quadrature output.  The detector and electronics were fiddly to make, and it has only 32 counts per turn.  This one is useful to play with, but if you just want something practical, complete encoder modules with 600 counts/turn now start around $15 on ebay. Search for &quot;photoelectric rotary encoder&quot;, one type is LPA3806-600BM</p>


32-slot encoder wheel

Encoder wheel for a simple 1-channel, or quadrature shaft encoder. STL files for 5 mm and 8 mm diameter shafts,  OpenSCAD file for any custom size. I used two 0603 LED-phototransistor pairs with 0.200" spacing for a quadrature output.  The detector and electronics were fiddly to make, and it has only 32 counts per turn.  This one is useful to play with, but if you just want something practical, complete encoder modules with 600 counts/turn now start around $15 on ebay. Search for "photoelectric rotary encoder", one type is LPA3806-600BM


<h2>This 2-part hub mounts a standard CD or DVD on a 5 mm shaft. 3- and 4-spoke version in STL, and OpenSCAD file included in case you want a different diameter, change number of spokes, etc. File is tuned for my printer (Ultimaker 2) and likely needs adjustment for other printers if you want a tight fit. I also used some superglue. </h2>

<p>Why do this? I am using a DVD just as a round shape, mounted on a stepper motor shaft, with an optical mouse looking at a strip of paper wrapped around the rim as a shaft encoder. This is to measure the rotation angle, to calibrate a microstepping driver. The python code to read data from a USB mouse is also included (on Debian Linux, anyway). My mouse has some drift over time, so this isn&apos;t a good absolute angle encoder, but good enough for what I wanted.</p>


CD Hub Clamp

This 2-part hub mounts a standard CD or DVD on a 5 mm shaft. 3- and 4-spoke version in STL, and OpenSCAD file included in case you want a different diameter, change number of spokes, etc. File is tuned for my printer (Ultimaker 2) and likely needs adjustment for other printers if you want a tight fit. I also used some superglue. 

Why do this? I am using a DVD just as a round shape, mounted on a stepper motor shaft, with an optical mouse looking at a strip of paper wrapped around the rim as a shaft encoder. This is to measure the rotation angle, to calibrate a microstepping driver. The python code to read data from a USB mouse is also included (on Debian Linux, anyway). My mouse has some drift over time, so this isn't a good absolute angle encoder, but good enough for what I wanted.


This is a simple mechanical model of a photoelectric rotary encoder, just in case someone else needs to model a bracket to hold it as I am. &#xA0;This one uses 3x M3 screws for mounting 120 degrees apart. There are two sets of three holes; one set at 14 mm and one set at 15 mm radius from center. The features are accurate to the particular item I received. I don&apos;t know how standard this one is, but I have seen several nearly-identical photos like it on ebay listing various resolutions like 360, 400, 600 pulses per revolution. This particular one is ebay item 161297002173. &#xA0;*** &#xA0;Edit Nov.15: threaded depth of M3 mounting holes is 6.2 mm &#xA0;Edit Nov. 24: add &quot;Encoder_Bracket2&quot; with enlarged holes for use with two similar but slightly different encoder geometries &#xA0;


rotary encoder bracket

This is a simple mechanical model of a photoelectric rotary encoder, just in case someone else needs to model a bracket to hold it as I am.  This one uses 3x M3 screws for mounting 120 degrees apart. There are two sets of three holes; one set at 14 mm and one set at 15 mm radius from center. The features are accurate to the particular item I received. I don't know how standard this one is, but I have seen several nearly-identical photos like it on ebay listing various resolutions like 360, 400, 600 pulses per revolution. This particular one is ebay item 161297002173.  ***  Edit Nov.15: threaded depth of M3 mounting holes is 6.2 mm  Edit Nov. 24: add "Encoder_Bracket2" with enlarged holes for use with two similar but slightly different encoder geometries  


<p>I made this shaft coupler to connect a NEMA-23 stepper motor to a ball screw drive that previously had a NEMA-34 servo motor. &#xA0;It was designed to fit the motor mount that was part of the screw drive, but all dimensions are easily changed in DesignSpark Mechanical to fit any size shaft and any overall length and diameter.</p><p>I sliced in Cura and used the &quot;everywhere&quot; support option. &#xA0;I printed at 50% infill, 0.2mm layers. &#xA0;After the print finishes you will have to spend a little time breaking the support material out of the spiral slots, but it isn&apos;t too hard if you use a scraper or knife. &#xA0;Try not to cut your hands in the process!</p>


Flexible Shaft Coupler/Adapter

I made this shaft coupler to connect a NEMA-23 stepper motor to a ball screw drive that previously had a NEMA-34 servo motor.  It was designed to fit the motor mount that was part of the screw drive, but all dimensions are easily changed in DesignSpark Mechanical to fit any size shaft and any overall length and diameter.I sliced in Cura and used the "everywhere" support option.  I printed at 50% infill, 0.2mm layers.  After the print finishes you will have to spend a little time breaking the support material out of the spiral slots, but it isn't too hard if you use a scraper or knife.  Try not to cut your hands in the process!


<p>I had a lot of trouble removing my Shift shaft bushing from my Mercury 70hp lower unit without this tool. I ended up having to angle grind a bit of round tubing and get it off that way and it wasn&apos;t very pretty.</p>

<p>The tool costs around $23 USD and is being sold as &quot;18-9817 - Bushing Tool, 91-31107Tl&quot;.</p>

<p>Being in Australia it would end up costing a fair amount with shipping and now that I have a printer I decided to make one.</p>

<p>I thought that maybe someone else might be in my position so I&apos;m uploading it here.</p>

<p>I printed mine at 0.15mm and it fits my bushing really well and an 18mm spanner fits snug on the top.</p>

<p>Hope this can help someone! ..and their wallets. :)</p>


Outboard Shift Shaft bushing TOOL

I had a lot of trouble removing my Shift shaft bushing from my Mercury 70hp lower unit without this tool. I ended up having to angle grind a bit of round tubing and get it off that way and it wasn't very pretty.

The tool costs around $23 USD and is being sold as "18-9817 - Bushing Tool, 91-31107Tl".

Being in Australia it would end up costing a fair amount with shipping and now that I have a printer I decided to make one.

I thought that maybe someone else might be in my position so I'm uploading it here.

I printed mine at 0.15mm and it fits my bushing really well and an 18mm spanner fits snug on the top.

Hope this can help someone! ..and their wallets. :)


<p>Inspired by the spool holder angle that @ultiarjan designed and uses <a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-rail-system-u2rs" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-rail-system-u2rs</a></p><p>I had 3 shafts banana from my ultimakers so I did this to recycle them.</p><p>Tips:</p><p>- Print the D2 file mirroed for the other side of the machine.</p><p>- The other files, just once</p><p>The D1 fits inside the D2&#xA0;but&#xA0;isn&apos;t&#xA0;a&#xA0;bad&#xA0;idea&#xA0;to&#xA0;glue&#xA0;them&#xA0;once&#xA0;you&#xA0;short&#xA0;the&#xA0;distance.</p><p>The small bearing containers of the D1 file can be screw to the long part with some 25 m3 screws.</p><p>I did all this in a rush, for me works, but fell free to change anything</p><p>STEP FILES INCLUDED, change anything, go bananas :D</p>


UMO+ Some friction Spool holder

Inspired by the spool holder angle that @ultiarjan designed and uses https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker2-rail-system-u2rsI had 3 shafts banana from my ultimakers so I did this to recycle them.Tips:- Print the D2 file mirroed for the other side of the machine.- The other files, just onceThe D1 fits inside the D2 but isn't a bad idea to glue them once you short the distance.The small bearing containers of the D1 file can be screw to the long part with some 25 m3 screws.I did all this in a rush, for me works, but fell free to change anythingSTEP FILES INCLUDED, change anything, go bananas :D


<p>I was running into problems with the bowden setup and wanted to avoid putting the motor on the extruder (seemed too heavy). A flexible shaft seemed like a good solution...and lo and behold, as usual with my brilliant ideas, someone had beaten me to it and already generated a working version (kudos to the designer, I shamelessly stole the aspects I liked and incorporated them in this setup). Unfortunately the &apos;fix&apos; was for the ultimaker2 and it required buying worm gears (similar to <a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/modular-printhead-ultimaker-flex3drive-merlin" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/modular-printhead-ultimaker-flex3drive-merlin</a>).</p><p>Here is a version that fits on an ultimaker original and ultimaker hot-end.</p><p>Print out all the parts, file down the teeth on the gears so they fit, and use a lubricant for final assembly of the worm gears (vaseline mixed with graphite seems to work well with PLA).</p><p>The flexible shaft (OBI house brand, dremel-compatible) needs to be taken apart and you end up with one flexible metal shaft (about 3-4 mm diameter, with a square end -&gt; that goes in the worm gear; cut it to size and attach the other end to the motor coupling). Thread the flexible shaft through the bowden tube (which you no longer need for filament) to add stiffness and avoid supercoiling. The two scavenged bearings go on the top and bottom of the worm gear.</p><p>To get the whole thing to work you will also have to change the stepper setting (in hardware) from whatever the default jumper setting is to a ~4x increase; after that generate a new firmware for the ultimaker with the corresponding feeder settings and you are good to go. I&apos;m sorry I forgot what my precise settings are, otherwise I would have stated them here.</p><p>The closeup of the worm gear shows the quality of the prints I can get with the current design; it&apos;s not really an improvement over the stock head+feeder, but now I have no more troubles with filament grinding or warping within the bowden tube with flexible filaments.</p>


Flexible shaft extruder for ultimaker original

I was running into problems with the bowden setup and wanted to avoid putting the motor on the extruder (seemed too heavy). A flexible shaft seemed like a good solution...and lo and behold, as usual with my brilliant ideas, someone had beaten me to it and already generated a working version (kudos to the designer, I shamelessly stole the aspects I liked and incorporated them in this setup). Unfortunately the 'fix' was for the ultimaker2 and it required buying worm gears (similar to https://www.youmagine.com/designs/modular-printhead-ultimaker-flex3drive-merlin).Here is a version that fits on an ultimaker original and ultimaker hot-end.Print out all the parts, file down the teeth on the gears so they fit, and use a lubricant for final assembly of the worm gears (vaseline mixed with graphite seems to work well with PLA).The flexible shaft (OBI house brand, dremel-compatible) needs to be taken apart and you end up with one flexible metal shaft (about 3-4 mm diameter, with a square end -> that goes in the worm gear; cut it to size and attach the other end to the motor coupling). Thread the flexible shaft through the bowden tube (which you no longer need for filament) to add stiffness and avoid supercoiling. The two scavenged bearings go on the top and bottom of the worm gear.To get the whole thing to work you will also have to change the stepper setting (in hardware) from whatever the default jumper setting is to a ~4x increase; after that generate a new firmware for the ultimaker with the corresponding feeder settings and you are good to go. I'm sorry I forgot what my precise settings are, otherwise I would have stated them here.The closeup of the worm gear shows the quality of the prints I can get with the current design; it's not really an improvement over the stock head+feeder, but now I have no more troubles with filament grinding or warping within the bowden tube with flexible filaments.


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