In this Weekend Project, we build an "old" analog clock, designed by Instructables user gzumwalt. The 3D printed gadget corrects itself via software and an NTP clock server.

[Project] Auto-Correcting Analog Clock | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Work in progress.  Part of a Hydroponic Control system.</h3>
<p>Developed this independently, but have come across a bit <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:1936196">better execution of the concept</a>.</p>
<h3>Misc Notes</h3>
<ul><li>Uses 2020 extruded aluminum for the Mini-Rack</li>
<li>Mount holes are for a Raspi Zero</li>
<li>SD Extender cable used so can front-load the SD card</li>
<li>Fusion f3z &amp; STEP files included</li>
</ul><h3>Mini-Rack Parts</h3>
<ul><li>4x 170mm</li>
<li>4x 120mm</li>
<li>4x 152mm</li>
<li>8x 2020 End Corner Bracket</li>
</ul><h3>Amazon Parts</h3>
<ul><li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078RHDTFZ?tag=tv-auto-20">IEC 320 C14 Socket</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08C9FDLCY?tag=tv-auto-20">2020 End Corner Bracket Connector</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JMTW1YD?tag=tv-auto-20">Micro SD to SD Card Extension Cable Extender</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078S17FZ5?tag=tv-auto-20">US 3 Pins Power Socket Plug Panel</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00W97RY2O?tag=tv-auto-20">8mm Alloy Steel Hex Bolt Socket Head Cap Screws Black 100 Pcs</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XCKQ1M9?tag=tv-auto-20">ELEGOO 4 Channel DC 5V Relay Module</a></li>
</ul></div>
</body></html>

Mini-Rack Enclosure System for Raspi

# Work in progress.  Part of a Hydroponic Control system.
Developed this independently, but have come across a bit [better execution of the concept](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1936196).

## Misc Notes
- Uses 2020 extruded aluminum for the Mini-Rack
- Mount holes are for a Raspi Zero
- SD Extender cable used so can front-load the SD card
- Fusion f3z & STEP files included

## Mini-Rack Parts
- 4x 170mm
- 4x 120mm
- 4x 152mm
- 8x 2020 End Corner Bracket

## Amazon Parts
- [IEC 320 C14 Socket](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078RHDTFZ)
- [2020 End Corner Bracket Connector](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08C9FDLCY)
- [Micro SD to SD Card Extension Cable Extender](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JMTW1YD)
- [US 3 Pins Power Socket Plug Panel](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078S17FZ5)
- [8mm Alloy Steel Hex Bolt Socket Head Cap Screws Black 100 Pcs](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00W97RY2O)
- [ELEGOO 4 Channel DC 5V Relay Module](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XCKQ1M9)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>chage v3 in to v2 size</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

6 inch 4 post rack V3 to V2 Size

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This project was first inspired by araimbox&apos;s PiNAS. I wanted to get rid of the soldering part to connect the hard disks. Also, I was a bit afraid of the temperature management in such a small enclosure, with all the CPU electronics so close to each other.</p>
<p>So here it is:</p>
<p>Works with a <strong>Raspberry Pi 4</strong> and <strong>two USB SATA Hard disk drives</strong> connected with the shortest SATA USB cables I could find.</p>
<p><strong>Small</strong> footprint, a 15.2cm x 15.2cm square.</p>
<p>Mainly <strong>unibody</strong>, only two main parts including anchors to ease cable management with small zip ties. No supports needed for any of it.</p>
<p><strong>No glue</strong>, only M3 screws.</p>
<p>Plenty of air vents to <strong>prevent choking</strong>, plus a Noctua fan that only runs when necessary thanks to Tyler&apos;s tutorial on Howchoo.com. A bit of soldering is necessary if you want to achieve this, but it&apos;s worth the effort.</p>
<p>I use OpenMediaVault on the software side; SMB sharing, DLNA streaming, lots of plugins and you can even run a Plex server. it&apos;s a very nice platform.</p>
<h3>Parts list:</h3>
<ul><li>PLA, any brand I guess, but I used Prusament</li>
<li>one Raspberry Pi 4</li>
<li>two SATA Hard Disk Drives</li>
<li>two very short SATA USB cables with thin connectors, I used a Sabrent model (see below)</li>
<li>one 4mm NF-A4x10 5V Noctua fan</li>
<li>one NPN transistor and a resistor if you want to trigger the fan&apos;s activity depending on the CPU&apos;s temperature (follow the tutorial, link is below)</li>
<li>one Ethernet cable</li>
<li>a few small 2.5mm zip ties</li>
<li>four M3*4 screws</li>
<li>two M3*6 screws</li>
<li>five M3*8 screws</li>
<li>eight M3*5 screws</li>
<li>four M3*12 screws</li>
<li>four 4mm diameter anti-slip rubber pads</li>
</ul><p>The whole assembly process is illustrated below.</p>
<h3>Some references:</h3>
<ul><li><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3878669">araymbox&apos;s Pi NAS</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://howchoo.com/g/ote2mjkzzta/control-raspberry-pi-fan-temperature-python">Tyler&apos;s fan control tutorial on Howchoo.com</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.openmediavault.org">OpenMediaVault</a> </li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B011M8YACM?tag=tv-auto-20">Sabrent USB 3.0 to SATA cable</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA?tag=tv-auto-20">4mm NF-A4x10 5V Noctua fan</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B083R62LYY?tag=tv-auto-20">M3 screws</a></li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Prusament+PLA+PLA+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Prusament PLA PLA                     </a>

                    Mystic Green
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>You have to print one frame, one top and four feet.</p>
<p>The frame and top parts were designed to be sturdy so no bending would occur in case of small temperature peaks; they are quite thick so expect long prints: 10 hours for the frame and 4 for the top.</p>
<p>Pay attention to parts orientation on the bed (rather obvious).</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/4d/f0/ee/0c/d7/IMG_3710.jpeg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/70/8a/9f/25/27/IMG_3711.jpeg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/89/85/a8/8a/64/IMG_3713.jpeg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/7c/38/f3/93/32/IMG_3714.jpeg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/98/b1/3d/e8/54/IMG_3716.jpeg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/ed/61/9c/2d/a3/IMG_3721.jpeg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/5d/47/85/6c/09/IMG_3723.jpeg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/ac/6f/94/5f/d5/IMG_3724.jpeg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/94/3d/46/e9/da/IMG_3727.jpeg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/91/14/14/a1/b4/IMG_3730.jpeg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/a8/53/5f/05/c1/IMG_3731.jpeg"></p>
</body></html>

Dual HDD Raspberry NAS with fan control

This project was first inspired by araimbox's PiNAS. I wanted to get rid of the soldering part to connect the hard disks. Also, I was a bit afraid of the temperature management in such a small enclosure, with all the CPU electronics so close to each other.

So here it is:

Works with a **Raspberry Pi 4** and **two USB SATA Hard disk drives** connected with the shortest SATA USB cables I could find.

**Small** footprint, a 15.2cm x 15.2cm square.

Mainly **unibody**, only two main parts including anchors to ease cable management with small zip ties. No supports needed for any of it.

**No glue**, only M3 screws.

Plenty of air vents to **prevent choking**, plus a Noctua fan that only runs when necessary thanks to Tyler's tutorial on Howchoo.com. A bit of soldering is necessary if you want to achieve this, but it's worth the effort.

I use OpenMediaVault on the software side; SMB sharing, DLNA streaming, lots of plugins and you can even run a Plex server. it's a very nice platform.

Parts list:
=======

* PLA, any brand I guess, but I used Prusament
* one Raspberry Pi 4
* two SATA Hard Disk Drives
* two very short SATA USB cables with thin connectors, I used a Sabrent model (see below)
* one 4mm NF-A4x10 5V Noctua fan
* one NPN transistor and a resistor if you want to trigger the fan's activity depending on the CPU's temperature (follow the tutorial, link is below)
* one Ethernet cable
* a few small 2.5mm zip ties
* four M3*4 screws
* two M3*6 screws
* five M3*8 screws
* eight M3*5 screws
* four M3*12 screws
* four 4mm diameter anti-slip rubber pads

The whole assembly process is illustrated below.

Some references:
=============

* [araymbox's Pi NAS](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3878669)
* [Tyler's fan control tutorial on Howchoo.com](https://howchoo.com/g/ote2mjkzzta/control-raspberry-pi-fan-temperature-python)
* [OpenMediaVault](https://www.openmediavault.org) 
* [Sabrent USB 3.0 to SATA cable](https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B011M8YACM)
* [4mm NF-A4x10 5V Noctua fan](https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA)
* [M3 screws](https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B083R62LYY)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Modular, definable width (shown with 230mm wide equipment maximum). 1RU holes same as any standard rack mount, exactly 1U of space per frame module.</p>
<p>Visit <a rel="nofollow" href="https://grabcad.com/library/3d-printed-mini-server-rack-1">https://grabcad.com/library/3d-printed-mini-server-rack-1</a> for the original CAD files if you want to make your own rack inserts for your equipment. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.28</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Hatchbox+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Hatchbox PLA                    </a>

                    Grey
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Designed to be printable on a 220x220 bed. Most mounting ears come in 2 parts, so very easy to print. But for larger items I needed to split them in half and melt them together. If you have a larger printer, go ahead and make solid connectors as one piece.</p>
<p>Frame modules are best if printed standing up, with the &quot;front&quot; of the rack face down. Orientation of the others all depends on how you want to deal with supports.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<div><p>I recommend <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.com/DYWISHKEY-Pieces-Washers-Assortment-Wrenches/dp/B07WZL3Z7H/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&amp;keywords=countersunk+metric+bolt+and+nut+assortment&amp;qid=1603748587&amp;sr=8-14&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">these nuts and bolts</a> if you want to use exactly what I used. </p>
<p>The loops on the sides of the frame modules are intended to act as zip tie anchors, although I didn&apos;t wind up using them in my case.</p></div>
</body></html>

Mini Server Rack

Modular, definable width (shown with 230mm wide equipment maximum). 1RU holes same as any standard rack mount, exactly 1U of space per frame module.

Visit https://grabcad.com/library/3d-printed-mini-server-rack-1 for the original CAD files if you want to make your own rack inserts for your equipment. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This was designed for the KBD75 mechanical keyboard by kbdfans.</p>
<p>Hinge Mount.stl - You&apos;ll need two of these.  They&apos;re symmetric, so no need to mirror them.<br>
Right Shelf Half.stl and Left Shelf Half.stl - These are 238m wide, so you&apos;ll need a printer large enough<br>
Hinge Cap.stl - You&apos;ll need two of these.  They&apos;re symmetric, so no need to mirror them.<br>
Latch Pin.stl - You&apos;ll need two of these, but you&apos;ll need to mirror one.<br>
Latch.stl - You&apos;ll need two of these, but you&apos;ll need to mirror one.<br>
Mouse Bracket.stl - You only need one of these.</p>
<p>The two halves of the shelf are held together by three socket cap screws.  I used 1/4&quot; screws and nuts, but 6mm should work.<br>
The two Latch Pins are held into the sides of the shelf by M5 button head screws.<br>
The Hinge Caps are held into the back of the shelf by M5 socket cap screws.<br>
The Mouse Bracket is mounted to the back of the shelf by M5 screws.<br>
The keyboard is mounted to the case using 3/8&quot; long 3-48 socket cap screws. I used these because it&apos;s what I had available. I haven&apos;t looked to see what the metric alternative is.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.25</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Hatchbox+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Hatchbox PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Rack Mounted Keyboard & Mouse Shelf

This was designed for the KBD75 mechanical keyboard by kbdfans.


Hinge Mount.stl - You'll need two of these.  They're symmetric, so no need to mirror them.
Right Shelf Half.stl and Left Shelf Half.stl - These are 238m wide, so you'll need a printer large enough
Hinge Cap.stl - You'll need two of these.  They're symmetric, so no need to mirror them.
Latch Pin.stl - You'll need two of these, but you'll need to mirror one.
Latch.stl - You'll need two of these, but you'll need to mirror one.
Mouse Bracket.stl - You only need one of these.

The two halves of the shelf are held together by three socket cap screws.  I used 1/4" screws and nuts, but 6mm should work.
The two Latch Pins are held into the sides of the shelf by M5 button head screws.
The Hinge Caps are held into the back of the shelf by M5 socket cap screws.
The Mouse Bracket is mounted to the back of the shelf by M5 screws.
The keyboard is mounted to the case using 3/8" long 3-48 socket cap screws. I used these because it's what I had available. I haven't looked to see what the metric alternative is.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Server hotswap fan adapter.</p>
<p>Remixed this to fit in my homelab server. Had these 80mm, 10db fans laying around which are way more quiet than the 120mm fans included with the case</p>
<p>for slicing upscale to 1000% something with the dimensions </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=PrimaValue+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        PrimaValue PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>print speed: 120mm/s<br>
Print res: 0.3mm<br>
infill 10%</p></div>
</body></html>

Hotswap fan adapter - 80mm to 120mm 

Server hotswap fan adapter.

Remixed this to fit in my homelab server. Had these 80mm, 10db fans laying around which are way more quiet than the 120mm fans included with the case

for slicing upscale to 1000% something with the dimensions 

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link  ">
                                            <p>When you use a traditional egg cup and cut your boiled egg you have to continue to hold one part while the other sits in the cup. Then, having eaten the first part you have to put the shell down to roll around on your plate.... this (egg shaped) boiled egg server provides two positions so you have somewhere to place both parts of your egg. You don&apos;t have to keep hold of one part as in the past... easy for kids and it also keeps the empty shells tidier.</p>
<p>Note: If you like this check out all my other designs!</p>
										</div>
										
                                    								</body></html>

Boiled Egg Server - Neatly Holds Both Parts Of A Cut Boiled Egg While It's Being Eaten.

 When you use a traditional egg cup and cut your boiled egg you have to continue to hold one part while the other sits in the cup. Then, having eaten the first part you have to put the shell down to roll around on your plate.... this (egg shaped) boiled egg server provides two positions so you have somewhere to place both parts of your egg. You don't have to keep hold of one part as in the past... easy for kids and it also keeps the empty shells tidier. Note: If you like this check out all my other designs! 

<p>Designed a quick mount that fits natively onto the Ultimaker 2 Go. Back left corner (if viewing from the front). It uses one of the case screws and requires no additional hardware to attach to the frame.</p>

<p>The 4 holes for the Pi are modeled with M3 threads. I had to drill out (just a little) the mounting holes on the Pi to fit M3 screws through. You&apos;ll need the hardware below.</p>

<p>4x M3 10mm screws<br>
4x M3 6mm Spacers</p>

<p>Enjoy!</p>


Ultimaker 2 Go (UM2GO) Octoprint Raspberry Pi Mount

Designed a quick mount that fits natively onto the Ultimaker 2 Go. Back left corner (if viewing from the front). It uses one of the case screws and requires no additional hardware to attach to the frame.

The 4 holes for the Pi are modeled with M3 threads. I had to drill out (just a little) the mounting holes on the Pi to fit M3 screws through. You'll need the hardware below.

4x M3 10mm screws
4x M3 6mm Spacers

Enjoy!


<p><iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/XDOLTDkg-n0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>

<p>&quot;&apos;Antique&apos; Auto Correcting Analog Clock&quot; is an analog styled clock I designed to resemble a clock owned by my grandmother many years ago. Her clock had a wooden case with brass hardware and inner workings. This clock has a 3D printed case using wood and copper PLA for the clock case, details, and inner workings, and black PLA for the clock hands. Her clock used a spring driven windup mechanism, this clock uses an Adafruit Feather ESP 32, stepper motor and stepper motor controller to drive the clock hands at a rate of once per minute.</p>

<p>The clock software is designed to &quot;home&quot; the clock on power up or reset (e.g. rotate the clock hands to the 12:00 position) using a reed switch and magnets to detect the home position. Then using one of the numerous NTP clock servers to maintain time, the software rotates the clock hands to the correct time. The NTP clock server is polled by the software at the top of each hour and the time received from the NTP server is written into the ESP32 real time clock. At 12:00 (noon and midnight), if the clock is slow (detected by NTP time of 12:00, but the reed switch is not activated), the software will fast forward the clock to the 12:00 position (reed switch activated), then resume normal operation.</p>

<p>As usual, I probably forgot a file or two or who knows what else, so if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask as I do make mistakes in plenty.</p>

<p>Designed using Autodesk Fusion 360, sliced using Cura 3.5.1, and printed in PLA on an Ultimaker 2+ Extended and an Ultimaker 3 Extended.</p>


'Antique' Auto Correcting Analog Clock



"'Antique' Auto Correcting Analog Clock" is an analog styled clock I designed to resemble a clock owned by my grandmother many years ago. Her clock had a wooden case with brass hardware and inner workings. This clock has a 3D printed case using wood and copper PLA for the clock case, details, and inner workings, and black PLA for the clock hands. Her clock used a spring driven windup mechanism, this clock uses an Adafruit Feather ESP 32, stepper motor and stepper motor controller to drive the clock hands at a rate of once per minute.

The clock software is designed to "home" the clock on power up or reset (e.g. rotate the clock hands to the 12:00 position) using a reed switch and magnets to detect the home position. Then using one of the numerous NTP clock servers to maintain time, the software rotates the clock hands to the correct time. The NTP clock server is polled by the software at the top of each hour and the time received from the NTP server is written into the ESP32 real time clock. At 12:00 (noon and midnight), if the clock is slow (detected by NTP time of 12:00, but the reed switch is not activated), the software will fast forward the clock to the 12:00 position (reed switch activated), then resume normal operation.

As usual, I probably forgot a file or two or who knows what else, so if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to ask as I do make mistakes in plenty.

Designed using Autodesk Fusion 360, sliced using Cura 3.5.1, and printed in PLA on an Ultimaker 2+ Extended and an Ultimaker 3 Extended.


<p>The caddy is designed to fit the optical drive bay of a HP Proliant Microserver Gen8 and will latch into the locking mechanism. It is short enough for the original slot cover to fit.<br>The tray accomodates a 2.5&quot; SSD (or HDD).</p>

<p>Some information about the evolution of this design can be found here (sorry - German only): <a href="http://cepp-techblog.blogspot.com/2016/01/ssd-caddy-fur-dvd-bay.html" rel="external">http://cepp-techblog.blogspot.com/2016/01/ssd-caddy-fur-dvd-bay.html</a></p>


SSD caddy for ODD bay

The caddy is designed to fit the optical drive bay of a HP Proliant Microserver Gen8 and will latch into the locking mechanism. It is short enough for the original slot cover to fit.The tray accomodates a 2.5" SSD (or HDD).

Some information about the evolution of this design can be found here (sorry - German only): http://cepp-techblog.blogspot.com/2016/01/ssd-caddy-fur-dvd-bay.html


Printrbot 1405 Raspberry Pi + Cam Holder removable

<p>This is another mount I&apos;ve designed to attach my Raspberry Pi OctoPi server to my printer. I&apos;m currently using this on the right side panel of my P3Steel frame.</p>

<p>When I assembled this, I used M3 nylon nuts--the kind from PCB standoff kits--as a simplified form of locknuts.</p>

<p>Please feel free to post any questions or suggestions!</p>


Raspberry Pi Model B mounting plate for P3Steel

This is another mount I've designed to attach my Raspberry Pi OctoPi server to my printer. I'm currently using this on the right side panel of my P3Steel frame.

When I assembled this, I used M3 nylon nuts--the kind from PCB standoff kits--as a simplified form of locknuts.

Please feel free to post any questions or suggestions!


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