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<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Side door cable retainer clip for the Ford E350 van</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Adim Lab Gantry</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Hatchbox+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Hatchbox PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Print object laying flat.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/c3/08/ea/4a/dd/IMG_6711.JPG"></p>
</body></html>

E350 side door latch cable clip V2

Side door cable retainer clip for the Ford E350 van

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>ligtweight design to keep the pin in its safe position</p></div>
</body></html>

3dlabprint Spitfire Mk XVI wing pin retainer

ligtweight design to keep the pin in its safe position



<p>I originally designed this because the original clear plastic clips on the door were breaking, and since this mirror weighs a ton I didn&apos;t want it to fall off the door!</p>


Mirror Clip / Mount / Holder / Bracket / Retainer for 6mm Thick Glass Pane

I originally designed this because the original clear plastic clips on the door were breaking, and since this mirror weighs a ton I didn't want it to fall off the door!


<p>One of our young flyers lost the motor retainer (in flight - exciting!) for the Estes Flash E2X rocket. The rocket isn&apos;t much good without the retainer, so I found something close on a 3D model site, then adjusted it to my needs with Lightwave.</p>

<p>It seems to fit well and retain positively - though my PLA prints are likely to get soft from heat - this is not yet flight-tested. I&apos;m expecting to print a half-dozen and keep &apos;em in my range box.</p>


Estes "Flash" E2X 18mm rocket motor retainer

One of our young flyers lost the motor retainer (in flight - exciting!) for the Estes Flash E2X rocket. The rocket isn't much good without the retainer, so I found something close on a 3D model site, then adjusted it to my needs with Lightwave.

It seems to fit well and retain positively - though my PLA prints are likely to get soft from heat - this is not yet flight-tested. I'm expecting to print a half-dozen and keep 'em in my range box.


<p>I modified the original to make it more robust in case your printer isn&apos;t up to snuff. This one requires a longer M3 screw, but you can use the original design if you don&apos;t have one.</p><p>Print with cylindrical clip oriented vertically.</p><p>Original: <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:853258" rel="external">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:853258</a></p>


Aluminum extrusion clip for split loom

I modified the original to make it more robust in case your printer isn't up to snuff. This one requires a longer M3 screw, but you can use the original design if you don't have one.Print with cylindrical clip oriented vertically.Original: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:853258


<p>On two occasions I have went to the back of my UM2 and accidentally nudged the power cord and disconnected power.  This is partly due to the fact that the power connector to the UM2 isn&apos;t all that secure. This version of the clip is to secure the power cord better than just hanging off the UM2.&#xA0;-I suggest when connecting the clip be sure to power off the UM2 first.&#xA0;-Clip the power cord into the clip.&#xA0;-Then attach the clip under the UM2 (as shown in the photos).&#xA0;-Then you can slide the clip to the position you want it.  (the connections should be snug).&#xA0;-Insure that the power connector is straight into the UM2 power port.&#xA0;-Then you can power up the UM2.&#xA0;&#xA0;This helps me, I hope it helps you all. I&apos;m working on another version now.<br>This item is printed in PLA (material doesn&apos;t matter)The speed I used was between .15 and .2 &#xA0;(really doesn&apos;t matter. depends if you wish to see the &apos;UM2&apos; on the front of the clip).I used speed of 45 ( you can use higher. I was experimenting)No support needed.I did not use a brim (I just used hairspray)I used nozzle of .6 (.4 is probably better to get the &apos;UM2&apos; clearer).I used a fill density of 55. ( you can use less or more. I wanted to make sure it was just a little flexible.</p>


UM2 Power Cord Holder

On two occasions I have went to the back of my UM2 and accidentally nudged the power cord and disconnected power.  This is partly due to the fact that the power connector to the UM2 isn't all that secure. This version of the clip is to secure the power cord better than just hanging off the UM2. -I suggest when connecting the clip be sure to power off the UM2 first. -Clip the power cord into the clip. -Then attach the clip under the UM2 (as shown in the photos). -Then you can slide the clip to the position you want it.  (the connections should be snug). -Insure that the power connector is straight into the UM2 power port. -Then you can power up the UM2.  This helps me, I hope it helps you all. I'm working on another version now.This item is printed in PLA (material doesn't matter)The speed I used was between .15 and .2  (really doesn't matter. depends if you wish to see the 'UM2' on the front of the clip).I used speed of 45 ( you can use higher. I was experimenting)No support needed.I did not use a brim (I just used hairspray)I used nozzle of .6 (.4 is probably better to get the 'UM2' clearer).I used a fill density of 55. ( you can use less or more. I wanted to make sure it was just a little flexible.


<p><b>*** UPDATED !!!!! *** <br></b>The clips are designed to allow them to slide around so they don&apos;t bind.&#xA0;&#xA0; <br>However, this allows the cable to slowly pull out leading to tightness.&#xA0;&#xA0; Also, it will slowly work it&apos;s way out of the clip on the replacement thermocouple amp cover.<br><br>So I added a special terminator at the end near the feeder to all you to clamp the cable.<br>I also added to the clamp to the thermocouple amp cover (see <br>Thermocouple Amp Cover With Clip V2)<br>Finally, I&apos;ve also posted the DesignSpark Mechanical source in case you want to do your own thing.<br><br>Drop me a note if you mod this.&#xA0; I&apos;d like to see how it develops.<br><br><br><br><br>I didn&apos;t like the coiled wrap around the Bowden tube on my UM Original so I designed these clips.<br><br>Also the temp sensor amp board connector is notorious for a poor connection and temperature misreporting due to the stress of the cable moving.&#xA0;&#xA0; So also included is a retainer clip that replaces the difficult to use strain relief molded part screwed to the top of the amp board.<br><br>Print 3 or 4 of the clips and one cover.<br><br><b>NOTE: the clips are NOT symmetrical.&#xA0;&#xA0; One side is slightly larger and clips to the Bowden tube.</b></p>


UM Original Bowden Tube Clips and Retainer

*** UPDATED !!!!! *** The clips are designed to allow them to slide around so they don't bind.   However, this allows the cable to slowly pull out leading to tightness.   Also, it will slowly work it's way out of the clip on the replacement thermocouple amp cover.So I added a special terminator at the end near the feeder to all you to clamp the cable.I also added to the clamp to the thermocouple amp cover (see Thermocouple Amp Cover With Clip V2)Finally, I've also posted the DesignSpark Mechanical source in case you want to do your own thing.Drop me a note if you mod this.  I'd like to see how it develops.I didn't like the coiled wrap around the Bowden tube on my UM Original so I designed these clips.Also the temp sensor amp board connector is notorious for a poor connection and temperature misreporting due to the stress of the cable moving.   So also included is a retainer clip that replaces the difficult to use strain relief molded part screwed to the top of the amp board.Print 3 or 4 of the clips and one cover.NOTE: the clips are NOT symmetrical.   One side is slightly larger and clips to the Bowden tube.


<p>Pretty straightforward. Replace the stock pieces with these.</p><p>Built in M3 nut retainers mean you only have to hold this assembly in place to get the first bolt started, then rotate into position for the second. Super easy compared to the alternative.</p><p>They also allow for installation without having to remove an 8mm shaft. This is very helpful if you&apos;ve ever forgotten to install the retainer when putting shafts back in!&#xA0;</p><p>You can just use some small snips to cut the old ones out if you don&apos;t need to remove the shafts for some other reason.</p>


Lars' Ultimaker Bearing Retainer

Pretty straightforward. Replace the stock pieces with these.Built in M3 nut retainers mean you only have to hold this assembly in place to get the first bolt started, then rotate into position for the second. Super easy compared to the alternative.They also allow for installation without having to remove an 8mm shaft. This is very helpful if you've ever forgotten to install the retainer when putting shafts back in! You can just use some small snips to cut the old ones out if you don't need to remove the shafts for some other reason.


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