Looking for information on 3D printing company RepRap? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

RepRap: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

The RepRap project has been the subject of an edit war on Wikipedia. Here's the official history, as described by core members of the project.

The Official History of the RepRap Project | All3DP

At this year's Midwest RepRap Festival, River City Labs showcased an extremely rare MakerBot Cupcake 3D printer.

Functional MakerBot Cupcake at Midwest RepRap Festival | All3DP

The RepRap Wikipedia entry has become the battle grounds for an all-out editing war. Can objective writing AND 3D printing prevail?

The Great RepRap Wikipedia Editing War of 2016 | All3DP

At the Midwest RepRap Festival, maker Daren Schwenke showed off his homemade Arcus 3D full color 3D printer.

Full Color 3D Printing: From Junkstrap to Delta CMYKW Printer | All3DP

RepRap inventor has found a way to let you "feel" distant objects, using a 3D printed rangefinder packed with ultrasonic sensors.

3D Printed Rangefinder with Arduino Adds Extra Senses | All3DP

RepRap stalwart Repetier-Host has flipped the switch on its latest update. Version 2.0.1 includes bug fixes, new icons and a few new tricks.

Repetier-Host 2.0.1 Update Adds Velocity Painting, New Features | All3DP

This post was contributed by Miles Scott, UK-based 3D printing expert, and co-moderator of the biggest 3D printing community on Facebook.  The original Prusa i3 MK2 printer has such a dedicated fanbase, it is unlike any other printer in the RepRap space. However, its roots in the RepRap community has translated into a somewhat confusing time for consumers. […]

Should I Buy a Prusa i3 Clone or the Original? | All3DP

Debuting at the 2018 Midwest RepRap Festival this weekend is a tool changing 3D printer from British company E3D. This is a multi-material FFF machine that's quick, nimble, and very very clever.

Radical Tool Changing 3D Printer with Motion System from E3D | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div>Driven to update the original hot end due to difficulties clearing jams from the stock end. 
The v6 cover (e3dtop) is ducted &amp; narrow enough to allow arms to give full access of the dia150 plate. The mdf was retained to mount the v6 on ( ease the mdf centre hole with proxxon/ dremel) 
New mounting brackets (link plate) for balls move them closer to the nozzle plane to keep accuracy. It locates in &amp; is bolted through the mdf. To reduce flex both balls mount on a continuous M3x60 screw cut down to suit, or could use model M3 ball ends bolted through. 
Remember to measure your thermistor value at 25C or the hotend indicated temps will not be true at 215C! My settings are now &quot;M305 P1 T93500 B4388 R4700 &quot; 
I broke my extruder drive plate finding this out, so have included the plate, &amp; a motor spacer upgrade which allows you to use a M3x16bolt to reduce the plate strain. </div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
Printer Brand: 
 <div>Prusa</div>
 
 Printer: 
 <div><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">i3 MK3</a></div>
 
 Rafts: 
 <div>No</div>
 
 Supports: 
 <div>Doesn&apos;t Matter</div>
 
 Resolution: 
 <div>.2</div>
 
 Infill: 
 <div>25%</div>
 
 Filament: 
 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
 Polymaker Polyflex TPU </a>

 Black
 
 Notes: 
 <div>PETG</div>
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E3D v6 upgrade for fisher delta

Driven to update the original hot end due to difficulties clearing jams from the stock end. 
The v6 cover (e3dtop) is ducted & narrow enough to allow arms to give full access of the dia150 plate. The mdf was retained to mount the v6 on ( ease the mdf centre hole with proxxon/ dremel)
New mounting brackets (link plate) for balls move them closer to the nozzle plane to keep accuracy. It locates in & is bolted through the mdf. To reduce flex both balls mount on a continuous M3x60 screw cut down to suit, or could use model M3 ball ends bolted through.
Remember to measure your thermistor value at 25C or the hotend indicated temps will not be true at 215C! My settings are now "M305 P1 T93500 B4388 R4700 "
I broke my extruder drive plate finding this out, so have included the plate, & a motor spacer upgrade which allows you to use a M3x16bolt to reduce the plate strain. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div>Remix of <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:945156">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:945156</a>
ToyRep RX (aka RemiX) is my own take on the ToyRep design! 
I love this printer design with its roots in the RepRap community and I decided to change a few details about the build. You can find a video of it in action here <a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/xRNCdrJooAo">https://youtu.be/xRNCdrJooAo</a>
The machine prints rather crude, mostly due to the cheap stepper motors. It is still fully functional and a great piece to learn from. However this is not a cheap build, it uses rather expensive components such as TMC2100 drivers for all motors and a flexible build plate system among other details, it is more of a love letter to the original design. I would not recommend it for productive usage. 
Includes the fully configured firmware for the MKS Gen L 1.0 board (based on Marlin 1.1.9).
My goals were to... 
o preserve the original look and feel of the design 
o streamline some aspects of the design for example fewer parts or better cable management 
o adjust for convenience features such as a removable build plate, display, part cooling fan aswell as the use of leadscrews 
o keep the same dimensions, all parts are interchangeable with the original design 
o this remix supplements the original ToyRep, you can mix and match parts as you like!
I tried to capture as many details as possible of my build with the provided pictures. You can find all of the modified and most of the original stl files in the files section aswell as a 7zip archive of my OpenSCAD stuff if you want to modify anything! (Also contains STL files, as I&apos;m mostly changing existing stuff...)
Design changes: 
o changed X and Y Axis idler to a standard M3 GT2 belt idler pulley 
o added stops for the rods of X and Y axis, also ZMax clamps, so they dont move when not clamped in tight enough 
o added stops to the x and y carriages for the bushings so they don&apos;t move 
o replaced the stock hotend cooling fan with a combined clip-on hotend and part cooling one 
o added cutouts to Z, Y and extruder motor mounts for the heatsinks 
o replaced M5 nut with a leadscrew nut and moved the mount to the bottom to allow for shorter leadscrews to be used 
o designed a new board holder for the MKS board 
o extended the legs to make more room for cabling and general airflow 
o designed a display case and adapters to attach it to the frame, can also stand on its own 
o designed a new cable guide for the extruder and hotend cables of the x carriage 
o changed fixed endstops to clamp-on endstops 
o sligthly adjusted gear hex cutout dimensions for the hobbed bolt 
o tightened the pinion gear for the 28BYJ-48 stepper motor, it was very loose 
o tightened the gt2 pulley for the 28BYJ-48 stepper motor, it was very loose
Hardware changes: 
o using two T5 x 1 x 1 leadscrews + brass nut (Thread diameter 5mm, 1mm pitch, Lead - 1mm per turn) 
o switched to the MKS Gen L 1.0 board to make some space on the underside (about half the height of a RAMPS + MEGA2560 stack) 
o using 3d printed bushings instead of the LM8UU ball bearings 
o using aluminium rods 
o using M8 locking nuts 
o replaced the printed z-joints with proper flexible couplers 
o changed print surface to a BuildTak FlexPlate System (114 x 114 mm) 
o added RepRapDiscount Smart LCD Controller with SD Card reader 
o using standard Makerbot design endstops with led indicator 
o added heatsinks to all motors</div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
Printer Brand: 
 <div>Prusa</div>
 
 Printer: 
 <div>I3 MK3S</div>
 
 Rafts: 
 <div>No</div>
 
 Supports: 
 <div>Yes</div>
 
 Resolution: 
 <div>0.3mm DRAFT Profile</div>
 
 Infill: 
 <div>cubic, up to 50%</div>
 
 Filament: 
 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=DAS+Filament+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
 DAS Filament PETG </a>

 Metallic Blau (metallic blue)
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ToyRep RX

Remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:945156

**ToyRep RX (aka RemiX) is my own take on the ToyRep design!**
I love this printer design with its roots in the RepRap community and I decided to change a few details about the build. You can find a video of it in action here https://youtu.be/xRNCdrJooAo

The machine prints rather crude, mostly due to the cheap stepper motors. It is still fully functional and a great piece to learn from. However this is not a cheap build, it uses rather expensive components such as TMC2100 drivers for all motors and a flexible build plate system among other details, it is more of a love letter to the original design. I would not recommend it for productive usage. 

Includes the fully configured firmware for the MKS Gen L 1.0 board (based on Marlin 1.1.9).

**My goals were to...**
o preserve the original look and feel of the design
o streamline some aspects of the design for example fewer parts or better cable management
o adjust for convenience features such as a removable build plate, display, part cooling fan aswell as the use of leadscrews
o keep the same dimensions, all parts are interchangeable with the original design
o this remix supplements the original ToyRep, you can mix and match parts as you like!

I tried to capture as many details as possible of my build with the provided pictures. You can find all of the modified and most of the original stl files in the files section aswell as a 7zip archive of my OpenSCAD stuff if you want to modify anything! (Also contains STL files, as I'm mostly changing existing stuff...)

**Design changes:**
o changed X and Y Axis idler to a standard M3 GT2 belt idler pulley
o added stops for the rods of X and Y axis, also ZMax clamps, so they dont move when not clamped in tight enough
o added stops to the x and y carriages for the bushings so they don't move
o replaced the stock hotend cooling fan with a combined clip-on hotend and part cooling one
o added cutouts to Z, Y and extruder motor mounts for the heatsinks
o replaced M5 nut with a leadscrew nut and moved the mount to the bottom to allow for shorter leadscrews to be used
o designed a new board holder for the MKS board
o extended the legs to make more room for cabling and general airflow
o designed a display case and adapters to attach it to the frame, can also stand on its own
o designed a new cable guide for the extruder and hotend cables of the x carriage 
o changed fixed endstops to clamp-on endstops
o sligthly adjusted gear hex cutout dimensions for the hobbed bolt
o tightened the pinion gear for the 28BYJ-48 stepper motor, it was very loose
o tightened the gt2 pulley for the 28BYJ-48 stepper motor, it was very loose

**Hardware changes:**
o using two T5 x 1 x 1 leadscrews + brass nut (Thread diameter 5mm, 1mm pitch, Lead - 1mm per turn)
o switched to the MKS Gen L 1.0 board to make some space on the underside (about half the height of a RAMPS + MEGA2560 stack)
o using 3d printed bushings instead of the LM8UU ball bearings
o using aluminium rods
o using M8 locking nuts
o replaced the printed z-joints with proper flexible couplers
o changed print surface to a BuildTak FlexPlate System (114 x 114 mm)
o added RepRapDiscount Smart LCD Controller with SD Card reader 
o using standard Makerbot design endstops with led indicator
o added heatsinks to all motors

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div>This is a case for the REPRAP DISCOUNT SMART CONTROLLER, made for 2020 extrusion frame.</div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
Printer: 
 <div>DIY</div>
 
 Rafts: 
 <div>No</div>
 
 Supports: 
 <div>No</div>
 
 Resolution: 
 <div>0.2</div>
 
 Infill: 
 <div>25%</div>
 
 Filament: 
 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Plastika+Trcek+PETG+or+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
 Plastika Trcek PETG or PLA </a>

 Doesn&apos;t matter
</body></html>

Case for Reprap Discount Smart Controler 

This is a case for the REPRAP DISCOUNT SMART CONTROLLER, made for 2020 extrusion frame.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div>This is a y-axis shuttle for upgrading your mendel max with a bondtech bmg x2 dual extruder. </div>
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Mendel max 1.5 y axis shuttle for bmg x2 dual extruder

This is a y-axis shuttle for upgrading your mendel max with a bondtech bmg x2 dual extruder. 

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link ">
 There is no facility to change the angle of the Apple Wireless Keyboards (Model as pictured). The standard angle is only 6 degrees (approx.) which means the keys are very flat and your fingers need to push down from almost directly overhead.
Many people prefer their keyboard to angle back further as they find the higher angle makes pushing keys easier and typing is more comfortable as well as being less tiring on your hands / wrist.
The Apple Keyboard Risers are quick and easy prints that allow users to raise the back of their keyboard by 10 / 15 / 20 / 25mm to suit their personal angle of preference (.stls for each of these sizes provided).
Changing your Apple Keyboard angle is simple... first determine the best set for your personal preference by placing objects temporarily under the back of your keyboard to raise it up. Find things approx. 10 / 15 / 20 / 25mm (so the same as the options provided) to see which angle you find most comfortable... download the file and print two.
Installation is simple... on an accurate well set up machine they should be a firm / tight push on fit. Install one on each end just inside the standard keyboards rubber pads. Rotate the Apple Keyboard Risers forwards, so more underneath the Keyboard, until they cannot rotate further. They have been designed to be stopped from rotating by the underside of the keyboard and have been slightly angled so they will not rotate backwards during use.
The standard Apple Keyboard has rubber pads underneath that help stop it from sliding during use. As these pads will no longer make contact with the surface they Keyboard is being used on it is recommended to stick some thin rubber / non-slip pads onto the bottom of your Apple Keyboard Risers. Suitable adhesive backed material should be easy to find at any hardware store.
The Apple Keyboard Risers have been trialled with a number of Mac users with very positive feedback. Most users seem to prefer the 15mm and 20 mm options. They are quick and easy to print as well as use very little filament.
Please refer to the print settings and images for additional information. They need to be printed with high infill to ensure they are strong and will last well.
Note: If you like this check out the rest of my practical and fun designs.
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Apple Keyboard Risers

 There is no facility to change the angle of the Apple Wireless Keyboards (Model as pictured). The standard angle is only 6 degrees (approx.) which means the keys are very flat and your fingers need to push down from almost directly overhead. Many people prefer their keyboard to angle back further as they find the higher angle makes pushing keys easier and typing is more comfortable as well as being less tiring on your hands / wrist. The Apple Keyboard Risers are quick and easy prints that allow users to raise the back of their keyboard by 10 / 15 / 20 / 25mm to suit their personal angle of preference (.stls for each of these sizes provided). Changing your Apple Keyboard angle is simple... first determine the best set for your personal preference by placing objects temporarily under the back of your keyboard to raise it up. Find things approx. 10 / 15 / 20 / 25mm (so the same as the options provided) to see which angle you find most comfortable... download the file and print two. Installation is simple... on an accurate well set up machine they should be a firm / tight push on fit. Install one on each end just inside the standard keyboards rubber pads. Rotate the Apple Keyboard Risers forwards, so more underneath the Keyboard, until they cannot rotate further. They have been designed to be stopped from rotating by the underside of the keyboard and have been slightly angled so they will not rotate backwards during use. The standard Apple Keyboard has rubber pads underneath that help stop it from sliding during use. As these pads will no longer make contact with the surface they Keyboard is being used on it is recommended to stick some thin rubber / non-slip pads onto the bottom of your Apple Keyboard Risers. Suitable adhesive backed material should be easy to find at any hardware store. The Apple Keyboard Risers have been trialled with a number of Mac users with very positive feedback. Most users seem to prefer the 15mm and 20 mm options. They are quick and easy to print as well as use very little filament. Please refer to the print settings and images for additional information. They need to be printed with high infill to ensure they are strong and will last well. Note: If you like this check out the rest of my practical and fun designs. 

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link ">
 I created the 3d printable Prusa Research logo to make my Prusa i3 MK3 IKEA Lack enclosure by user Cisardom. look better than it already does. We all know i did not design the logo but i could not find one to print so i made one myself. I hope you guys love the brand as much as i do!
&#xA0;
This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/cbNYI84AcDq
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Prusa Research Logo

 I created the 3d printable Prusa Research logo to make my Prusa i3 MK3 IKEA Lack enclosure by user Cisardom. look better than it already does. We all know i did not design the logo but i could not find one to print so i made one myself. I hope you guys love the brand as much as i do! This thing was made with Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/cbNYI84AcDq 

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link short-text-youtube">
 <iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/qdryuqEAo00" width="420" height="315" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe>
The formidable Ender Dragon is one of the largest boss mobs in minecraft!
After having to fight past Ender Men it seizes the opportunity to strike, swooping in on the player with an aerial attack.
The Enderdragon is a fierce enemy destroying blocks that get in its way.
Allow it to cause havoc on and off the screen by printing this movable model!
The printed model is able to move in many ways to strike a number of different poses:
-The front and back legs rotate
-Its jaw is able to open and close
-It can flap its wings&#xA0;
-Its neck and tail can move fluidly in all directions.
I designed this in SolidWorks basing it from shots of the dragon taken from different angles.
I&apos;ve used 7 sections to form the neck and 13 to form the tail in this model, but feel free to experiment in your own models adding different numbers for different effects.
The model was printed off in black PLA then the tips of the wings, spines, eyes and mouth where painted to add some more character.&#xA0;
Enjoy bringing the Ender Dragon into the real world with this very interactive model.
&#xA0;
&#xA0;
&#xA0;
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Minecraft Ender Dragon

 The formidable Ender Dragon is one of the largest boss mobs in minecraft! After having to fight past Ender Men it seizes the opportunity to strike, swooping in on the player with an aerial attack. The Enderdragon is a fierce enemy destroying blocks that get in its way. Allow it to cause havoc on and off the screen by printing this movable model! The printed model is able to move in many ways to strike a number of different poses: -The front and back legs rotate -Its jaw is able to open and close -It can flap its wings -Its neck and tail can move fluidly in all directions. I designed this in SolidWorks basing it from shots of the dragon taken from different angles. I've used 7 sections to form the neck and 13 to form the tail in this model, but feel free to experiment in your own models adding different numbers for different effects. The model was printed off in black PLA then the tips of the wings, spines, eyes and mouth where painted to add some more character. Enjoy bringing the Ender Dragon into the real world with this very interactive model. 

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link ">
 I wanted a set of speakers to play music from my phone with an eye-catching curved design.
&#xA0;
I chose the <a href="https://www.kitronik.co.uk/c2141-deluxe-stereo-amplifier-kit.html">Deluxe Stereo Amplifier Kit</a>&#xA0; from Kitronik for the speakers and electronics as it had everything I needed. They&apos;ve designed it to be really easy to wire everything together and include a great set of step-by-step instructions on how to do it.
<img src="https://www.kitronik.co.uk/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/265x265/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/2/c2141_large_deluxe_stereo_amplifier_kit.jpg" alt>
&#xA0;
All I needed was a soldering iron and completing the kit took less than an hour.
&#xA0;
I used Solidworks to make my design. As the speakers came with fairly long wires that connected to the main board I decided to make a box for the board and the battery and separate housings for the speakers - so that I had more freedom to move them around and place them where I wanted.
&#xA0;
I made the main box in two parts that clip together so that I wouldn&apos;t need screws or anything extra to secure it - and so that I could print it out without needing any support material.
The speaker housings also print without support. &#xA0;The speakers fit in place inside them and are then secured in place with a circular clip that goes over the top.
I decided to design two clip for the top of the speaker, my preference it the one that just holds it in place and leaves the speaker exposed. However the second clip design also acts as a grill covering the speaker and giving it a bit of added protection.
&#xA0;
I decided to add a hook under the base so that I could sit the speakers down on my desk or the side but have the option to hang them on the wall if I want to aswell.
&#xA0;
This one was made in PLA using an ultimaker 2 at a layer height of 0.2mm.
&#xA0;
After plugging in the speakers to give them a test I was really happy with the sound quality, the Kitronic kit cost me &#xA3;8.00, working out the cost for the weight in PLA came to &#xA3;7.20 - so all said, by using 3D printing I&apos;ve ended up with a unique set of speakers of good quality for &#xA3;15 ($23.50).
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Stereo Speaker Set Curved Design

 I wanted a set of speakers to play music from my phone with an eye-catching curved design. I chose the Deluxe Stereo Amplifier Kit from Kitronik for the speakers and electronics as it had everything I needed. They've designed it to be really easy to wire everything together and include a great set of step-by-step instructions on how to do it. All I needed was a soldering iron and completing the kit took less than an hour. I used Solidworks to make my design. As the speakers came with fairly long wires that connected to the main board I decided to make a box for the board and the battery and separate housings for the speakers - so that I had more freedom to move them around and place them where I wanted. I made the main box in two parts that clip together so that I wouldn't need screws or anything extra to secure it - and so that I could print it out without needing any support material. The speaker housings also print without support. The speakers fit in place inside them and are then secured in place with a circular clip that goes over the top. I decided to design two clip for the top of the speaker, my preference it the one that just holds it in place and leaves the speaker exposed. However the second clip design also acts as a grill covering the speaker and giving it a bit of added protection. I decided to add a hook under the base so that I could sit the speakers down on my desk or the side but have the option to hang them on the wall if I want to aswell. This one was made in PLA using an ultimaker 2 at a layer height of 0.2mm. After plugging in the speakers to give them a test I was really happy with the sound quality, the Kitronic kit cost me £8.00, working out the cost for the weight in PLA came to £7.20 - so all said, by using 3D printing I've ended up with a unique set of speakers of good quality for £15 ($23.50). 

Design files available on Github:<a href="https://github.com/jjg/mg-prusa-blower-clamp" rel="external">https://github.com/jjg/mg-prusa-blower-clamp</a>

MakerGear Prusa Mendel blower clamp

Design files available on Github:https://github.com/jjg/mg-prusa-blower-clamp


WIP, the fan duct is not perfect, but it&apos;s working so farI don&apos;t use it for ABS and limit the speed at 80% for PLA

cooling print for reprap Wilson

WIP, the fan duct is not perfect, but it's working so farI don't use it for ABS and limit the speed at 80% for PLA


I could not find an LCD mount quite like what I wanted, so I created this. It&apos;s a simple mount that fits onto 1515 extrusions. I used it to mount my smart LCD at the top of my Mini Kossel. There is proper clearance for the SD reader too!

Smart LCD Controller Mount for Mini Kossel

I could not find an LCD mount quite like what I wanted, so I created this. It's a simple mount that fits onto 1515 extrusions. I used it to mount my smart LCD at the top of my Mini Kossel. There is proper clearance for the SD reader too!


Panel 1 - Keypad, LCD and Fan speed controller with one switch. Panel 2 - Keypad and LCD only. Panel 3 - Keypad, LCD and a blank space for switches etc. Panel 4 - Keypad, LCD and two switches. Please check dimensions etc before you print them, the knob is a quick one I designed when I couldn&apos;t find one suitable. 1) Print it ;-) 
 
2) Bolt stuff to it 
 
3) Bolt to printer 
 
The buttons can be found here thingiverse.com/thing:27766 
 
On my printer the switch is for two strips of LEDs across the top, and I have one LED for the hot end and another for the HBP.

RepRap World's Keypad for Mendelmax

Panel 1 - Keypad, LCD and Fan speed controller with one switch.Panel 2 - Keypad and LCD only.Panel 3 - Keypad, LCD and a blank space for switches etc.Panel 4 - Keypad, LCD and two switches.Please check dimensions etc before you print them, the knob is a quick one I designed when I couldn't find one suitable. 1) Print it ;-)

2) Bolt stuff to it

3) Bolt to printer

The buttons can be found here thingiverse.com/thing:27766

On my printer the switch is for two strips of LEDs across the top, and I have one LED for the hot end and another for the HBP.


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