Essential disaster relief recovery items: water, temporary shelters, and... a 3D printer?

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3D Printed Sound Absorbers Will Bring Relief To Your Ears | All3DP

For this year's Comic Relief Red Nose Day charity event, 3D printing made an appearance in the form of celebrity caricature red noses.

3D Printed Red Noses for Comic Relief 2017 of Celebrity Caricatures | All3DP

3D printed turbines for people who need them. Bonus: Accomplishing dreams and making mentors proud.

3D Printed Turbines for Central America & Disaster Relief | All3DP

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All3DP Supports Texas: 3D Printing For Disaster Relief | All3DP

Med3DP is an initiative in association with Trinity College Dublin which uses 3D printing to develop on-demand medical devices

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Metamason has created a customized 3D printed face mask for sleep apnea sufferers that's actually comfortable enough to wear.

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<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I noticed that the cable for the X-axis motor, while nicely sleeved, wasn&apos;t strain relieved. While this motor doesn&apos;t move much, I still didn&apos;t like the look of the cable kinking sharply right at the motor, so this strain-relief bracket clamps around the end of the motor, and holds the sleeving with a zip-tie.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa MINI</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Prusament+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Prusament PETG                    </a>

                    Galaxy Black
</body></html>

Prusa Mini X-motor strain relief 

I noticed that the cable for the X-axis motor, while nicely sleeved, wasn't strain relieved. While this motor doesn't move much, I still didn't like the look of the cable kinking sharply right at the motor, so this strain-relief bracket clamps around the end of the motor, and holds the sleeving with a zip-tie.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Stress relief for Prusa Mini power plug. I felt like the power plug moved too much and possibly caused stress for the power socket on the PCB.</p>
<p>The attachment locks in place under the weight of the printer. The small knobs in the attachment hook on to the holes under the Mini&apos;s main unit. You can use a ziptie to attach the PSU cable firmly.</p>
<p>I measured the clearance under my Mini to be about 1.327mm and designed the attachment accordingly. The height might vary depending on your foam pads. I included the fusion file for remixing.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa Mini</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Print with 10-20% infill and 0.2mm layer height. No supports needed. Print with the bottom laid flat on surface.</p></div>
</body></html>

Prusa Mini power plug stress relief

Stress relief for Prusa Mini power plug. I felt like the power plug moved too much and possibly caused stress for the power socket on the PCB.

The attachment locks in place under the weight of the printer. The small knobs in the attachment hook on to the holes under the Mini's main unit. You can use a ziptie to attach the PSU cable firmly.

I measured the clearance under my Mini to be about 1.327mm and designed the attachment accordingly. The height might vary depending on your foam pads. I included the fusion file for remixing.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Revisi&#xF3;n del accesorio para aliviar la tensi&#xF3;n del cable de la cama caliente.</p>
<p>Incluye un tercer cierre de tornillo en la parte final para mejorar el cierre.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>E10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>1.0</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Smartfil+ABS&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Smartfil ABS                    </a>

                    Black
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Anet e10 Bed-strain relief

Revisión del accesorio para aliviar la tensión del cable de la cama caliente.

Incluye un tercer cierre de tornillo en la parte final para mejorar el cierre.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Here is my design for simple gantry cable relief on ender 5 series printers, though it may work for other printers. It uses no hardware at all.</p>
<p>It is designed to snap on to any 2020 Aluminum extrusions and hold the conduit in place with the supplied Zipties. I recommend putting it along the back rail of the printer (the one that holds the extruder) and removing the Bowden tube from the conduit so as to not add extra stress to it.</p>
<p>I have a version with and without the ender logo. </p>
<p>It will take a bit of massaging to get it to snap into place. You may want to stretch it overnight or heat it a little to make it easier. </p>
<p>Although its not as fancy as having the cable chains with and carriers, this only took me 2 hours to design and print the whole thing and I think it does a good enough job.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 5</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Blue
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Simple Cable Support Ender 5/5Plus

Here is my design for simple gantry cable relief on ender 5 series printers, though it may work for other printers. It uses no hardware at all.

It is designed to snap on to any 2020 Aluminum extrusions and hold the conduit in place with the supplied Zipties. I recommend putting it along the back rail of the printer (the one that holds the extruder) and removing the Bowden tube from the conduit so as to not add extra stress to it.

I have a version with and without the ender logo. 

It will take a bit of massaging to get it to snap into place. You may want to stretch it overnight or heat it a little to make it easier. 

Although its not as fancy as having the cable chains with and carriers, this only took me 2 hours to design and print the whole thing and I think it does a good enough job.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>While modifying my Spirit pack, I notice there was only one tube coming from the side cylinders.  This would not do.  There should be 2, a red and blue.  There should also be a block on the side where the tubes should fit into.  So I purchased a blue tube from GBFANS.com and cut two equal lengths, painted one red and designed and printed this modification to the pack.  Lemme know what you think in the comments below!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Gizmodork+HIPS+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Gizmodork HIPS                     </a>

                    Black
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Ghostbusters Spirit Halloween Proton Pack - Cyclotron Block and Strain Reliefs

While modifying my Spirit pack, I notice there was only one tube coming from the side cylinders.  This would not do.  There should be 2, a red and blue.  There should also be a block on the side where the tubes should fit into.  So I purchased a blue tube from GBFANS.com and cut two equal lengths, painted one red and designed and printed this modification to the pack.  Lemme know what you think in the comments below!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a cable strain relief for newer X1&apos;s (I got mine mid Oct. 2020). I wanted one that could just slide on without disassembly the bed levelling knob. This should work if you have kept the stock setup (I&apos;ve done the bed levelling upgrade). </p>
<p>If the centre of your cable is 43mm from the edge of the bed this will work for your printer. Just push the cable relief until its centre lines up with the centre of the cable.</p>
<p>IMPORTANT: Apply a small amount of grease to help the part slide onto the frame. </p>
<p>Design: I used the cad that Rick and Morty made on GrabCad for most of the measurement. <a rel="nofollow" href="https://grabcad.com/library/artillery-sidewinder-x1-1">https://grabcad.com/library/artillery-sidewinder-x1-1</a> Big thanks!!!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Sidewinder X1</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Hello3D+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Hello3D PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used PLA as it&apos;s all I have right now. I don&apos;t see heat being an issue hear but we&apos;ll see. I recommend not using supports where the zip ties go through.</p></div>
</body></html>

10/2020 Sidewinder X1 V4 Cable Strain Relief

This is a cable strain relief for newer X1's (I got mine mid Oct. 2020). I wanted one that could just slide on without disassembly the bed levelling knob. This should work if you have kept the stock setup (I've done the bed levelling upgrade). 

If the centre of your cable is 43mm from the edge of the bed this will work for your printer. Just push the cable relief until its centre lines up with the centre of the cable.

IMPORTANT: Apply a small amount of grease to help the part slide onto the frame. 


Design: I used the cad that Rick and Morty made on GrabCad for most of the measurement. https://grabcad.com/library/artillery-sidewinder-x1-1 Big thanks!!!


<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link  ">
                                            <p>DIBUJO 3D el exorcista</p>
<p>Imprimir las 4 primeras capas con filamento negro<br>
de la 5 hasta terminar en filamento que brilla en la oscuridad<br>
respetar la altura de capa<br>
0.2 mm la primera capa<br>
0.1 mm la altura de capa<br>
100 % relleno<br>
velocidad 45 mm/s m&#xE1;ximo<br>
boquilla 0.4 mm</p>
<p>DRAWING 3D The Exorcist </p>
<p>Print the first 4 layers with black filament<br>
From 5 until finished in Glow in the Dark filament ...<br>
Respect layer height<br>
0.2 mm the first layer<br>
0.1 mm layer height<br>
100% filler<br>
Speed &#x200B;&#x200B;45 mm / s maximum<br>
Nozzle 0.4 mm</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1aG0clRtnE">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1aG0clRtnE</a></p>
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Drawing 3D The Exorcist 

 DIBUJO 3D el exorcista Imprimir las 4 primeras capas con filamento negro de la 5 hasta terminar en filamento que brilla en la oscuridad respetar la altura de capa 0.2 mm la primera capa 0.1 mm la altura de capa 100 % relleno velocidad 45 mm/s máximo boquilla 0.4 mm DRAWING 3D The Exorcist Print the first 4 layers with black filament From 5 until finished in Glow in the Dark filament ... Respect layer height 0.2 mm the first layer 0.1 mm layer height 100% filler Speed ​​45 mm / s maximum Nozzle 0.4 mm https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1aG0clRtnE 

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                                            <p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1aG0clRtnE&amp;t=3s">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1aG0clRtnE&amp;t=3s</a></p>
<p>moneda Juego De Tronos</p>
<p>Imprimir las 9 primeras capas con filamento negro<br> de la 10 hasta terminar en filamento blanco...<br> respetar la altura de capa<br> 0.2 mm la primera capa<br> 0.1 mm la altura de capa<br> 100 % relleno<br> velocidad 45 mm/s m&#xE1;ximo<br> boquilla 0.4 mm</p>
<p>Game Of Thrones coin<br> Print the first 9 layers with black filament<br> From 10 until finished in white filament ...<br> Respect layer height<br> 0.2 mm the first layer<br> 0.1 mm layer height<br> 100% filler<br> Speed &#x200B;&#x200B;45 mm / s maximum<br> nozzle 0.4 mm</p>
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Game Of Thrones coin

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T1aG0clRtnE&t=3s moneda Juego De Tronos Imprimir las 9 primeras capas con filamento negro de la 10 hasta terminar en filamento blanco... respetar la altura de capa 0.2 mm la primera capa 0.1 mm la altura de capa 100 % relleno velocidad 45 mm/s máximo boquilla 0.4 mm Game Of Thrones coin Print the first 9 layers with black filament From 10 until finished in white filament ... Respect layer height 0.2 mm the first layer 0.1 mm layer height 100% filler Speed ​​45 mm / s maximum nozzle 0.4 mm 

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                                            <p>Marble metope from the Parthenon (South metope II). The South metopes in The British Museum show the battle between Centaurs and Lapiths at the marriage-feast of Peirithoos.</p>
<p>A Lapith stands in front of a Centaur, kneeling on the Centaur&#x2019;s back and clasping his throat with his left hand. The Centaur, facing right, has been thrown on his right foreleg, his head is forced back and his mouth wide open. The fingers of his right hand grasp the right shoulder of the Lapith. A chlamys hangs over the Lapith&#x2019;s left arm and behind his back. The Centaur&#x2019;s left arm and right foreleg and the Lapith&#x2019;s head and right arm are missing. Parts of the frame are restored.The human Lapith forces his centaur opponent down, gripping him by the throat. THe line of the Lapith&apos;s body crosses the centaur at a diagonal. This compositional devisse was popular in Greek art for depicting scenes of strife.</p>
<p><br>The Metopes of the Parthenon are a series of marble panels, originally 92 in number, on the outside walls of the Parthenon in Athens, Greece, forming part of the Doric frieze. The metopes of each side of the building (14 each on the eastern and western walls, 32 each on the northern and southern walls) had a different subject, and together with the pediments, Ionic frieze, and the statue of Athena Parthenos contained within the Parthenon, formed an elaborate program of sculptural decoration. Fifteen of the metopes from the south wall were removed and are now part of the Parthenon Marbles in the British Museum, and others have been destroyed. They are famous examples of the Classical Greek high-relief.</p>
<p>The metopes of the southern wall (Plaques No. 1&#x2013;12 and 21&#x2013;32) present the Battle of the Lapiths and Centaurs, also known as the Centauromachy, in which the mythological Athenian king Theseus took part. The battle between the Centaurs and the Lapiths broke out during the wedding feast of the king of the Lapiths and personal friend of Theseus, Pirithous. According to one version of the myth, the Centaurs, insulted from being excluded from the celebrations, attacked the Lapiths while according to another, during the feast drunken Centaurs reacted violently under the influence of wine. The result was a fight between the Centaurs and the Lapiths and an attempt of the former to abduct the Lapith women.</p>
<p>The Centaurs have faces with animal features whose linear drawings strongly recall theatrical masks. They are shown wearing animal skins and they are armed with tree-branches. On the other hand, the Lapiths fight nude or wearing a chlamys, several of them hold a sword or a spear which, as they were formerly metallic attachments, are now lost, while in some cases, the Lapiths use shields to protect themselves.</p>
<p>There is a tendency to recognize the bridegroom Pirithous on metope 11 and the bride Deidamia on metope 25 but there is no conclusive evidence for these identifications. On metope 29, features of the mature Classical style can be traced on the face and the dress of the Lapith woman.</p>
<p>The presence of household utensils such as hydrias (ceramic pots with three handles used for mainly for storing water), which are also used as provisional weapons by the combatants, indicates a battle fought indoors. Certain compositions are repeated whereas the overall execution of the scenes is less ambitious than the initial plans. Contrary to the eventual outcome of the battle and to the moral of the myth which emphasizes on the superiority of the civilized world over the primeval disorder, the winning party in this fearless fight are the Centaurs and not the Lapiths. However, it is possible that the battle is still in its initial stages.</p>
<p>In 1687, a cannonball struck the Parthenon during an attack on Athens by the Venetians. This event destroyed many metopes on the south wall, especially the central ones. The existence of these metopes is now known only from Carrey&apos;s drawings executed in 1674 and from their remaining fragments. Their subject matter is not altogether clear as the metopes present uncommon iconographical details. Some experts recognize on them the representation of Attic dynastic myths (the stories of the royal families of Cecrops and Erechtheus) while others, attempting to unify mythologically the afore-mentioned scenes with the ones of the Centauromachy, propose a subject related to the myths of the Centauromachy heroes.</p>
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Parthenon South Metope II

 Marble metope from the Parthenon (South metope II). The South metopes in The British Museum show the battle between Centaurs and Lapiths at the marriage-feast of Peirithoos. A Lapith stands in front of a Centaur, kneeling on the Centaur’s back and clasping his throat with his left hand. The Centaur, facing right, has been thrown on his right foreleg, his head is forced back and his mouth wide open. The fingers of his right hand grasp the right shoulder of the Lapith. A chlamys hangs over the Lapith’s left arm and behind his back. The Centaur’s left arm and right foreleg and the Lapith’s head and right arm are missing. Parts of the frame are restored.The human Lapith forces his centaur opponent down, gripping him by the throat. THe line of the Lapith's body crosses the centaur at a diagonal. This compositional devisse was popular in Greek art for depicting scenes of strife. The Metopes of the Parthenon are a series of marble panels, originally 92 in number, on the outside walls of the Parthenon in Athens, Greece, forming part of the Doric frieze. The metopes of each side of the building (14 each on the eastern and western walls, 32 each on the northern and southern walls) had a different subject, and together with the pediments, Ionic frieze, and the statue of Athena Parthenos contained within the Parthenon, formed an elaborate program of sculptural decoration. Fifteen of the metopes from the south wall were removed and are now part of the Parthenon Marbles in the British Museum, and others have been destroyed. They are famous examples of the Classical Greek high-relief. The metopes of the southern wall (Plaques No. 1–12 and 21–32) present the Battle of the Lapiths and Centaurs, also known as the Centauromachy, in which the mythological Athenian king Theseus took part. The battle between the Centaurs and the Lapiths broke out during the wedding feast of the king of the Lapiths and personal friend of Theseus, Pirithous. According to one version of the myth, the Centaurs, insulted from being excluded from the celebrations, attacked the Lapiths while according to another, during the feast drunken Centaurs reacted violently under the influence of wine. The result was a fight between the Centaurs and the Lapiths and an attempt of the former to abduct the Lapith women. The Centaurs have faces with animal features whose linear drawings strongly recall theatrical masks. They are shown wearing animal skins and they are armed with tree-branches. On the other hand, the Lapiths fight nude or wearing a chlamys, several of them hold a sword or a spear which, as they were formerly metallic attachments, are now lost, while in some cases, the Lapiths use shields to protect themselves. There is a tendency to recognize the bridegroom Pirithous on metope 11 and the bride Deidamia on metope 25 but there is no conclusive evidence for these identifications. On metope 29, features of the mature Classical style can be traced on the face and the dress of the Lapith woman. The presence of household utensils such as hydrias (ceramic pots with three handles used for mainly for storing water), which are also used as provisional weapons by the combatants, indicates a battle fought indoors. Certain compositions are repeated whereas the overall execution of the scenes is less ambitious than the initial plans. Contrary to the eventual outcome of the battle and to the moral of the myth which emphasizes on the superiority of the civilized world over the primeval disorder, the winning party in this fearless fight are the Centaurs and not the Lapiths. However, it is possible that the battle is still in its initial stages. In 1687, a cannonball struck the Parthenon during an attack on Athens by the Venetians. This event destroyed many metopes on the south wall, especially the central ones. The existence of these metopes is now known only from Carrey's drawings executed in 1674 and from their remaining fragments. Their subject matter is not altogether clear as the metopes present uncommon iconographical details. Some experts recognize on them the representation of Attic dynastic myths (the stories of the royal families of Cecrops and Erechtheus) while others, attempting to unify mythologically the afore-mentioned scenes with the ones of the Centauromachy, propose a subject related to the myths of the Centauromachy heroes. 

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                                            <div>
<p>A roadside shrine to Vanys, the goddess of the night/undeath from our WIP fantasy RPG, Coils of Chaos.</p>
<p>This easy to print bit of scatter terrain is meant for our growing <a href="/thing:997635" rel="nofollow">18mm scale miniature range</a> and will fit nicely into your 1&quot; grid maps. I designed these pieces to assist with quick battlefield dressings during our games of <a href="http://www.illgottengames.net/products/wayfarer-things-beyond-wonder-pdf" rel="nofollow">Wayfarer</a> and <a href="http://www.illgottengames.net/products/wayfarer-tactics-codex-pdf" rel="nofollow">Wayfarer Tactics</a>.</p>
<p>We&apos;ve set up a <a href="https://www.patreon.com/illgottengames" rel="nofollow">Patreon page</a> for anyone who&apos;s interested in helping to fund us so we can keep making free and open sourced games like Pocket-Tactics, Wayfarer Tactics. and others, not to mention the growing catalog of gaming miniatures that you can use for whatever you want! (Psst... we take requests and commissions...)</p>
<p>Enjoy!</p>
</div>
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Roadside Shrine to Vanys (15mm/18mm/28mm scale)

 A roadside shrine to Vanys, the goddess of the night/undeath from our WIP fantasy RPG, Coils of Chaos. This easy to print bit of scatter terrain is meant for our growing 18mm scale miniature range and will fit nicely into your 1" grid maps. I designed these pieces to assist with quick battlefield dressings during our games of Wayfarer and Wayfarer Tactics. We've set up a Patreon page for anyone who's interested in helping to fund us so we can keep making free and open sourced games like Pocket-Tactics, Wayfarer Tactics. and others, not to mention the growing catalog of gaming miniatures that you can use for whatever you want! (Psst... we take requests and commissions...) Enjoy! 

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<p>A mysterious crumbling wall for our <a href="/thing:1535920" rel="nofollow">Arcane Ruins</a> terrain set, though it should fit nicely in lots of gaming tables.</p>
<p>We&apos;ve set up a <a href="https://www.patreon.com/illgottengames" rel="nofollow">Patreon page</a> for anyone who&apos;s interested in helping to fund us so we can keep making free and open sourced games like Pocket-Tactics, Wayfarer Tactics. and others, not to mention the growing catalog of gaming miniatures that you can use for whatever you want! (Psst... we take requests and commissions...)</p>
<p>Enjoy!</p>
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Ruined Arcane Wall (15mm scale)

 A mysterious crumbling wall for our Arcane Ruins terrain set, though it should fit nicely in lots of gaming tables. We've set up a Patreon page for anyone who's interested in helping to fund us so we can keep making free and open sourced games like Pocket-Tactics, Wayfarer Tactics. and others, not to mention the growing catalog of gaming miniatures that you can use for whatever you want! (Psst... we take requests and commissions...) Enjoy! 

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                                            <p>Mercury&#x2019;s surface is dominated by&#xA0;impact craters, basaltic rock and smooth plains, many of them a result of&#xA0;flood volcanism. Craters on Mercury range in diameter from small bowl-shaped craters to multi-ringed impact basins hundreds of kilometers across.</p>
<p>This map presents the entire Mercury surface and you can identify the prominent geographic features. Elevation is exaggerated to make visible the features and even touch and feel the mercury surface.</p>
<p>Elevation data it is based on information available on USGS Astrogeology Science Center using Mercury MESSENGER Global DEM.</p>
<p>You can find all the details in the following link:</p>
<p>https://astrogeology.usgs.gov/search/map/Mercury/Topography/MESSENGER/Mercury_Messenger_USGS_DEM_Global_665m_v2</p>
<p>Model it is created with tool.itslitho.com</p>
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MERCURY ELEVATION MAP - (FREE download)

 Mercury’s surface is dominated by impact craters, basaltic rock and smooth plains, many of them a result of flood volcanism. Craters on Mercury range in diameter from small bowl-shaped craters to multi-ringed impact basins hundreds of kilometers across. This map presents the entire Mercury surface and you can identify the prominent geographic features. Elevation is exaggerated to make visible the features and even touch and feel the mercury surface. Elevation data it is based on information available on USGS Astrogeology Science Center using Mercury MESSENGER Global DEM. You can find all the details in the following link: https://astrogeology.usgs.gov/search/map/Mercury/Topography/MESSENGER/Mercury_Messenger_USGS_DEM_Global_665m_v2 Model it is created with tool.itslitho.com 

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