The Relay is a safer alternative to smartphones created for parents worried about keeping in touch with their kids when they're out and about. Republic Wireless used 3D printing technology to speed up the prototyping process and develop new iterations of the walkie-talkie styled device. 

3D Printing Used to Develop Walkie-Talkie Device That Helps Parents Keep Tabs on Kids | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>A simple case for a USB Relay</p></div>
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USB Relay Case

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is nesting box for the Arduino Nano. This board holds the Arduino Nano, Phot-cell potentiometer, 2 relays, and a circuit board. the Project is to switch power supply from solar panel to battery when it gets dark. Free outside lighting plus outside USB ports built into the battery controller/charger. There is another circuit for the always on power supply that will power the Nano 24/7 not in the picture. Contact me if you want to do this project. Otherwise the nesting box will work for many projects to keep your components isolated.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>NA</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Any+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Any TPU                     </a>

                    Any
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>This was printed on the Creality Ender 3 using the Cura slicer with default setting for 1.5mm filament with the 1.0mm nozzle. I used the larger nozzle because I dont care about print quality as this will wild up in a control box and out of sight.</p></div>
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Arduino Nesting Box Relay controls

This is nesting box for the Arduino Nano. This board holds the Arduino Nano, Phot-cell potentiometer, 2 relays, and a circuit board. the Project is to switch power supply from solar panel to battery when it gets dark. Free outside lighting plus outside USB ports built into the battery controller/charger. There is another circuit for the always on power supply that will power the Nano 24/7 not in the picture. Contact me if you want to do this project. Otherwise the nesting box will work for many projects to keep your components isolated.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Simple universal case for NodeMCU working like thermostat for hassio. I have connected couple of Dalas one wire sensor.<br>
My output is:</p>
<ul><li>temperature for incoming water</li>
<li>temperature for hand washing water</li>
<li>temperature for incoming water from radiators</li>
<li>temperature for outgoing water to radiators</li>
</ul><p>Relay - is wired together with normal control unit. So when im not in home, everything is controlled by standard thermostat, when Im comming back, I setup desired temperature on Hassio.</p>
<p>Design is modular. On sides are holder for another sensors. Not used now. Box can be holded by two holders on water tube </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>
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Modular thermostat NodeMCU Hassio

Simple universal case for NodeMCU working like thermostat for hassio. I have connected couple of Dalas one wire sensor.
My output is:
* temperature for incoming water
* temperature for hand washing water
* temperature for incoming water from radiators
* temperature for outgoing water to radiators

Relay - is wired together with normal control unit. So when im not in home, everything is controlled by standard thermostat, when Im comming back, I setup desired temperature on Hassio.

Design is modular. On sides are holder for another sensors. Not used now. Box can be holded by two holders on water tube 


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Compatible pour module 16 relais Arduino</p></div>
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16 relais Arduino coque boite

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>eh    what should I say, good luck</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Voron V1.8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=cheap+PETG+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        cheap PETG PETG                    </a>

                    YELLO
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4 Channel Relay Module

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Hello there!<br>
I have designed a case for SSR for my printer, i am a newbie in 3D design, but done my best :)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>DIY Cartesian 3d printer</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Devil+Design+PET-G&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Devil Design PET-G                    </a>

                    Transparent
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Relay Case

Hello there!
I have designed a case for SSR for my printer, i am a newbie in 3D design, but done my best :)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is my design for the larger 30 Amp relay to be safely used with the Ender 3, This includes a small box that sits on the back of the printer to house the relay on the rails.</p>
<p>My setup means I had to drill new holes through the metal, if you do this please make sure that there is enough protection as to not tear the cables on the holes, a grommet or in my case extra layers of shrink wrap worked great.</p>
<p>(please don&apos;t use the smaller 10Amp relays shown on popular youtube channels, they may cause problems due to their size)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Amazon+PETG+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Amazon PETG                     </a>

                    Orange
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used PETG from Amazon at a nozzle temp of 235 and 65 for bed, Adhesive used is Bic Coloured Glue Stick</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<div><p>I printed this in separate pieces so that i could get a better surface quality on some parts, i then used Gorilla Super glue to stick the parts together, be mindful if you use the cable cover to only glue the top section if you want to open the box again</p>
<p>I would recommend placing the pegs in the rails first then using glue to attach the base, this will allow you to position it to your preference.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom commercial-use">Commercial Use!</h3>
<div><p>Hi everyone with all my designs either on here or elsewhere you are free to use how you wish for non commercial purposes.</p>
<p>If you did want to sell any of my assets then please contact me first, in most cases just a link to the original asset will be sufficient.</p>
<p>Happy Printing :)</p></div>
</body></html>

Ender 3 V2 30Amp Relay Enclosure

This is my design for the larger 30 Amp relay to be safely used with the Ender 3, This includes a small box that sits on the back of the printer to house the relay on the rails.

My setup means I had to drill new holes through the metal, if you do this please make sure that there is enough protection as to not tear the cables on the holes, a grommet or in my case extra layers of shrink wrap worked great.

(please don't use the smaller 10Amp relays shown on popular youtube channels, they may cause problems due to their size)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Box for Relay &amp; NodeMCU<br>
ENG : Box for one double relay card and one nodeMCU card<br>
Size : 100x100mm<br>
Wall thickness 2.5mm</p>
<p>FR : Boite pouvant accueillir une carte double relais et une carte ESP8266 NodeMCU. Tient par frottement. Passage de cable pour l&apos;alimentation et la sortie</p>
<h3>Files : STL</h3>
<p>Print Settings</p>
<p>Printer :<br>
Alfawise U30 Pro (0.4mm)</p>
<p>Filament:<br>
PLA IceFilament White</p>
<p>Adhesion / Adh&#xE9;sion :<br>
Skirt</p>
<p>Supports / Soutien :<br>
Yes</p>
<p>Resolution /  Hauteur de couche :<br>
0.2mm</p>
<p>Infill / Remplissage -Shell :<br>
15%</p></div>
</body></html>

Box for Relay & NodeMCU ESP8366

Box for Relay & NodeMCU
ENG : Box for one double relay card and one nodeMCU card
Size : 100x100mm 
Wall thickness 2.5mm

FR : Boite pouvant accueillir une carte double relais et une carte ESP8266 NodeMCU. Tient par frottement. Passage de cable pour l'alimentation et la sortie

Files : STL
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Print Settings

Printer :
Alfawise U30 Pro (0.4mm)

Filament:
PLA IceFilament White

Adhesion / Adhésion :
Skirt

Supports / Soutien :
Yes

Resolution /  Hauteur de couche :
0.2mm

Infill / Remplissage -Shell :
15%

<p>Small houding for an esp01 relay (to place inside my heater, but can be usefull for anything)</p>


ESP01 relay + psu housing for esphome/ home assistant

Small houding for an esp01 relay (to place inside my heater, but can be usefull for anything)


<p>I use this little Case for wallmount with a nail.<br>
There is place in it for a Relais and it&apos;s electronic components and also a terminal strip and a fuse. At the upper side there are two holes for DC-Power and Trigger. At the downside there are two slots for small powercord, power inlet cable and output cable to lamp or other. At the front side there is a hole for a 5mm-LED. At the inner side there is up left and rught a holder for circuit board, in the middle a pin for fuseholder to put in the fuseholder and welding the pin withe iron to fix it, before there are four pieces and one pin in the middle to fix a terminal strip, left and right some leadthrough for fixing the power cord.  I switch a lamp but also need for switch on the valve of my steam radiator.</p>


Relaisassy

I use this little Case for wallmount with a nail.
There is place in it for a Relais and it's electronic components and also a terminal strip and a fuse. At the upper side there are two holes for DC-Power and Trigger. At the downside there are two slots for small powercord, power inlet cable and output cable to lamp or other. At the front side there is a hole for a 5mm-LED. At the inner side there is up left and rught a holder for circuit board, in the middle a pin for fuseholder to put in the fuseholder and welding the pin withe iron to fix it, before there are four pieces and one pin in the middle to fix a terminal strip, left and right some leadthrough for fixing the power cord.  I switch a lamp but also need for switch on the valve of my steam radiator.


<p>Snap-on stand off with base for 4 relay module (common on ebay). &#xA0;Print at 10%. &#xA0;</p>


4 Relay Module Standoff

Snap-on stand off with base for 4 relay module (common on ebay).  Print at 10%.  


<p>NOTE: New version is out!<br>
<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/prototype-heated-bed-mosfet-relay-v3" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/prototype-heated-bed-mosfet-relay-v3</a></p>

<p></p><p>Hearing about people buying SSRs or even mechanical relays instead of just simply using a MosFET kinda hurts my feelings, so I decided to put together a little DIY hack to solve the problem.</p><p>In short: mechanical relays SUCK for DC (especially 24V, 200W which is a heavy burden for any mechanical relay to switch). Solid state relays (SSRs) are waaaay overengineered because they&apos;re made for industrial control applications where safety certificates, electrical isolation and things like these matter.</p><p>Anyways, I made this little hack which uses a MosFET (rated for 120A actual rms current! Forget any SSR&apos;s or mechanical relay&apos;s current capabilities...) to switch the heated bed&apos;s power from an Ultimaker 1 electronics board without using any current from the UM1&apos;s original power supply.</p><p>Of course, you need a second power supply dedicated for the heated bed (recommendations included in the BOM. Don&apos;t forget that these all come without wiring). I strongly recommend using a 24V power supply over 12V, because that means less current, meaning less stress on your wiring and connectors. Less current also means less electromagnetic interference.</p><p><br></p><p><br></p><p>The hack includes a printable circuit board - you print the circuit board with your 3D printer, put in the components and solder them using their own &quot;legs&quot; (full instructions in the files). All you need is a soldering station (preferrably with temperature control) and some standard electronics solder.</p><p><br></p><p>This design includes an LED indicator that will light up when the heatbed is activated. It&apos;s also fully ESD protected and enclosed.</p><p>Don&apos;t be afraid of the long instructions, it&apos;s really easy to solder the components together.</p><p><br></p><p>Note that you need to use the case if you want the thing to be protected against ESD effectively. The current design uses self-tapping screws for thermoplastics (aka &quot;plastite screws&quot;). If you really need a design that uses standard M3 screws, tell me. I can adapt the design. You could also just use a drill and drill through the small holes. Then you can put screws through and add nuts on the bottom.</p><p><br></p><p>Important: Make sure you don&apos;t put the MosFET relay on something that gets hot (such as the power supply unit)! It will not get warm by itself, but you don&apos;t want it to melt down and short-circuit...<br></p><p><br></p><p>The BOM includes supplier information for <a href="http://www.mouser.com" rel="external">www.mouser.com</a>. I recommend you get the parts from there. They ship worldwide. If you take one of the power supplies listed in the BOM, you should also get free shipping.</p><p><br></p><p>Note about the picture of the PCB&apos;s bottom side: Youmagine decided to rotate the picture and crop it. I tried it 3 times, it keeps rotating it. I have no time for this... See the assembly instructions for more pictures ;)</p><p><br></p><p>/update:</p><p>Added the sketchup source file. I completely forgot that earlier, sorry o.O</p><p>/update 2 (2015-06-02):</p><p>Added Wiring.pdf as a better display of how to hook this thing up.</p><p><br></p><p><b>IMPORTANT NOTE:</b></p><p>This hack is intended to be used with the Ultimaker Original power supply and electronics platform! Don&apos;t use it with anything else than that - this hack is not an universal design but really just a &quot;hack&quot; to get the UMO working with a heatbed.<br></p>Update: Other platforms may work as well, as long as there are no differences in how the heater outputs are switched (compared to the UMO electronics).<br><br><b>ANOTHER IMPORTANT NOTE:</b><br>Due to the way the heatbed output works and the fact that this MosFET relay hack does NOT feature an electrical insulation between input and output, you MUST use the second (heatbed) power supply EXCLUSIVELY for the heated bed and nothing else. The MosFET relay only works when it can break the GND connection between the controller (UMO electronics) and the heated bed. If you create any other GND connection between the controller and the heatbed power supply, then you bypass the relay, keeping it always in &quot;ON&quot; state.<br>As long as there is no other GND connection, the hack is completely safe to use as long as you solder all the joints correctly.<p></p>


Ultimaker heated bed MosFET relay hack - V2

NOTE: New version is out!
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/prototype-heated-bed-mosfet-relay-v3

Hearing about people buying SSRs or even mechanical relays instead of just simply using a MosFET kinda hurts my feelings, so I decided to put together a little DIY hack to solve the problem.In short: mechanical relays SUCK for DC (especially 24V, 200W which is a heavy burden for any mechanical relay to switch). Solid state relays (SSRs) are waaaay overengineered because they're made for industrial control applications where safety certificates, electrical isolation and things like these matter.Anyways, I made this little hack which uses a MosFET (rated for 120A actual rms current! Forget any SSR's or mechanical relay's current capabilities...) to switch the heated bed's power from an Ultimaker 1 electronics board without using any current from the UM1's original power supply.Of course, you need a second power supply dedicated for the heated bed (recommendations included in the BOM. Don't forget that these all come without wiring). I strongly recommend using a 24V power supply over 12V, because that means less current, meaning less stress on your wiring and connectors. Less current also means less electromagnetic interference.The hack includes a printable circuit board - you print the circuit board with your 3D printer, put in the components and solder them using their own "legs" (full instructions in the files). All you need is a soldering station (preferrably with temperature control) and some standard electronics solder.This design includes an LED indicator that will light up when the heatbed is activated. It's also fully ESD protected and enclosed.Don't be afraid of the long instructions, it's really easy to solder the components together.Note that you need to use the case if you want the thing to be protected against ESD effectively. The current design uses self-tapping screws for thermoplastics (aka "plastite screws"). If you really need a design that uses standard M3 screws, tell me. I can adapt the design. You could also just use a drill and drill through the small holes. Then you can put screws through and add nuts on the bottom.Important: Make sure you don't put the MosFET relay on something that gets hot (such as the power supply unit)! It will not get warm by itself, but you don't want it to melt down and short-circuit...The BOM includes supplier information for www.mouser.com. I recommend you get the parts from there. They ship worldwide. If you take one of the power supplies listed in the BOM, you should also get free shipping.Note about the picture of the PCB's bottom side: Youmagine decided to rotate the picture and crop it. I tried it 3 times, it keeps rotating it. I have no time for this... See the assembly instructions for more pictures ;)/update:Added the sketchup source file. I completely forgot that earlier, sorry o.O/update 2 (2015-06-02):Added Wiring.pdf as a better display of how to hook this thing up.IMPORTANT NOTE:This hack is intended to be used with the Ultimaker Original power supply and electronics platform! Don't use it with anything else than that - this hack is not an universal design but really just a "hack" to get the UMO working with a heatbed.Update: Other platforms may work as well, as long as there are no differences in how the heater outputs are switched (compared to the UMO electronics).ANOTHER IMPORTANT NOTE:Due to the way the heatbed output works and the fact that this MosFET relay hack does NOT feature an electrical insulation between input and output, you MUST use the second (heatbed) power supply EXCLUSIVELY for the heated bed and nothing else. The MosFET relay only works when it can break the GND connection between the controller (UMO electronics) and the heated bed. If you create any other GND connection between the controller and the heatbed power supply, then you bypass the relay, keeping it always in "ON" state.As long as there is no other GND connection, the hack is completely safe to use as long as you solder all the joints correctly.


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