Looking for information on Autodesk? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

Autodesk: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on Formlabs? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

Formlabs: Company Information in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on 3D printing company Ultimaker? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

Ultimaker: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on Makerbot Industries? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this Makerbot Industries Company Profile.

Makerbot Industries: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on 3D printing company Sculpteo? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

Sculpteo: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on 3D printing company i.Materialise? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

i.Materialise: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on 3D printing company Sketchfab? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

Sketchfab: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on 3D printing company MyMiniFactory? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

MyMiniFactory: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on 3D printing company RepRap? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

RepRap: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on Stratasys? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts and figures in this Stratasys company profile.

Stratasys: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on 3D printing company Shapeways? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

Shapeways: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

Looking for information on 3D printing company WASP? We‘ve accumulated the most important facts in this company profile.

WASP: Company Profile in 11 Facts | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Basic Clamp for 20X20 Aluminium Extrusion. Untested.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

Clamp - 20X20 Section

Basic Clamp for 20X20 Aluminium Extrusion. Untested.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Print</h3>
<p>Print four parts overall. Each side consists of two parts facing eachother.<br>
30% Infill and 2 bottom/toplayers are enough to be pretty torsion-resistant.</p>
<h3>BOM:</h3>
<p>8x M3x12 Screws + Nuts<br>
4x Toothless Pulleys with 5mm Bore</p>
<h3>Assembly</h3>
<p>The M3 screws need to go in the holes with the spacers behind. The Bearings on the solid spacers on the top. The additional holes may be used to connect both elements of the holder with a threaded rod to prevent shifting.</p>
<p><em>3mm Bearing version will follow</em></p></div>
</body></html>

Slimline Spoolholder with Pulleys/Bearings

Print
====
Print four parts overall. Each side consists of two parts facing eachother.
30% Infill and 2 bottom/toplayers are enough to be pretty torsion-resistant.

BOM:
====
8x M3x12 Screws + Nuts
4x Toothless Pulleys with 5mm Bore

Assembly
====
The M3 screws need to go in the holes with the spacers behind. The Bearings on the solid spacers on the top. The additional holes may be used to connect both elements of the holder with a threaded rod to prevent shifting.

_3mm Bearing version will follow_


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This profiles are a perfect start into the 3D printing. On my Ender 3 v2 (stock) I have perfect prints.<br>
Disclaimer: </p>
<ol><li>You still need to do some adjustments to this profile because every spool of filament have different settings of temperatures. Also please calibrate your extruder e-steps (original was 93, calculated for me is 100), and adjust the flow rate to have perfect wall dimension.<br>
After this adjustments, you are ready to make perfect prints!<br>
For any other quality you just need to change the layer heights (I keep it at 0.12mm), infill % or whatever you need.<br>
Happy printings!</li>
</ol></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.12</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=add%3Anorth+PLA+or+PET-G&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        add:north PLA or PET-G                    </a>

                    natural
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Hope you like this profiles and I am waiting for your feedback and some good prints.</p></div>
</body></html>

Cura 4.7 and 4.8 beta Ender 3 profiles (PLA and PET-G)

This profiles are a perfect start into the 3D printing. On my Ender 3 v2 (stock) I have perfect prints.
Disclaimer: 
1. You still need to do some adjustments to this profile because every spool of filament have different settings of temperatures. Also please calibrate your extruder e-steps (original was 93, calculated for me is 100), and adjust the flow rate to have perfect wall dimension.
After this adjustments, you are ready to make perfect prints!
For any other quality you just need to change the layer heights (I keep it at 0.12mm), infill % or whatever you need.
Happy printings!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a replacement GE dishwasher lower rack wheel axle, patterned after the manufacture&apos;s new style of OEM part, but reinforced and enhanced for a better fit and for a stronger 3D print. Works on front or rear wheels. If you want to purchase this part commercially, it is not sold separately; you are required to buy a full set of 8 wheels and axles, costing $10-to-$25 (GE Dishwasher Rack Wheel Axle Replacement, part #WD35X21041). Weighing in at 4 grams, this design is an inexpensive (~$0.10) and quick way to get a replacement axle -- it prints in less than an hour. The manufacturer&apos;s original design that is used in my dishwasher is not very sturdy. Consequently, it fails, thus explaining why replacements are sold at many internet retailers.</p>
<p>For a stronger print that better utilizes the layers and filament flow, I recommend printing this design upright, which will require some supports. After printing, I cleaned up the support material and lightly sanded the shaft that goes through the wheel so that it is smooth.</p>
<p>NOTE: I don&apos;t know how the PETG will react to the water, detergent, enzymes and heat found in a dishwasher. I will update this description after washing a few batches. </p>
<p><strong>Update</strong>:   After two weeks of use, the PETG clips are holding up. I have replaced the 4 axles on the right side of the drying rack and the wheels roll better and are less wobbly. The drying rack rolls in and out better than before.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 5</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Hatchbox+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Hatchbox PETG                    </a>

                    Black
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<div><p>Two of the lower rack wheel axles broke in my dishwasher. Rather than buying a full set of replacements for a machine that is on its last leg, I decided to design a replacement. Afetr 3 revisions, I think I have a working design.</p></div>
</body></html>

GE Dishwasher Rack Wheel Axle Replacement (WD35X21041)

This is a replacement GE dishwasher lower rack wheel axle, patterned after the manufacture's new style of OEM part, but reinforced and enhanced for a better fit and for a stronger 3D print. Works on front or rear wheels. If you want to purchase this part commercially, it is not sold separately; you are required to buy a full set of 8 wheels and axles, costing $10-to-$25 (GE Dishwasher Rack Wheel Axle Replacement, part #WD35X21041). Weighing in at 4 grams, this design is an inexpensive (~$0.10) and quick way to get a replacement axle -- it prints in less than an hour. The manufacturer's original design that is used in my dishwasher is not very sturdy. Consequently, it fails, thus explaining why replacements are sold at many internet retailers.

For a stronger print that better utilizes the layers and filament flow, I recommend printing this design upright, which will require some supports. After printing, I cleaned up the support material and lightly sanded the shaft that goes through the wheel so that it is smooth.

NOTE: I don't know how the PETG will react to the water, detergent, enzymes and heat found in a dishwasher. I will update this description after washing a few batches. 

**Update**:   After two weeks of use, the PETG clips are holding up. I have replaced the 4 axles on the right side of the drying rack and the wheels roll better and are less wobbly. The drying rack rolls in and out better than before.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>BOBINA<br>
(obligatorio) Soporte para rodillo de rodamiento para bobina bq<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4281392">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281392</a><br>
portabobinas de filamento con sensor de peso de filamento integrado<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3262984">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3262984</a><br>
(obligatorio) Portacarretes giratorio para Ender 3 / Ender 3 pro<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4579857">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579857</a></p>
<p>EXTRUSOR<br>
(tengo y uso mi propia modificaci&#xF3;n del CR-10 Montaje modular personalizable e3D V6 para servicio pesado Volcano 5015 ABL, lo incluyo en esta publicaci&#xF3;n)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2494642">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642</a><br>
(obligatorio) Filtro de filamento universal o filtro de polvo (para 1,75 mm)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3033662">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3033662</a><br>
(obligatorio) Gu&#xED;a de filamentos Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4195300">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195300</a><br>
Soporte de cable para extrusora de aluminio BV3D Ender 3(recomiendo directamente comprar el bmg clon o el dual gear extruder pero si usted ya tiene este adelante)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3798831">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3798831</a><br>
BMG lateral de cambio r&#xE1;pido<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4618739">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4618739</a><br>
Fijaci&#xF3;n de racor<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2994683">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683</a><br>
(obligatorio) Ender 3 CR10 Direct Drive / VOLCANO<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4296799">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4296799</a><br>
Accesorio de presi&#xF3;n Bondtech BMG Bowden Adapter<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3780795">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3780795</a><br>
(obligatorio) Hero Me Remix 2 con montaje robusto y gesti&#xF3;n de cables ampliada<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3744260">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3744260</a><br>
Carcasa de ventilador compacta Red Squirrel - Ender 3 Pro - 5015 Rev1<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4170231">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4170231</a><br>
Cubierta de parrilla de ventilador personalizable (aconsejo no cubrir el ventilador del radiador)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2802474">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802474</a><br>
Ring for 4010 &amp; 5050 fan(puede que tenga que reescalarlo)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3813567">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3813567</a><br>
E3D v6 Hotend - Conducto de ventilador de 40 mm<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:354723">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:354723</a></p>
<p>PSU<br>
Silenciador del ventilador de la fuente de alimentaci&#xF3;n Ender 3(no compatible con ender 3 pro)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3328495">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328495</a><br>
Ender 3 PSU<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3023240">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3023240</a><br>
Cubierta con bisagras de PSU Mean Well LRS-350 para Prusa i3 Full Bear Upgrade<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3450424">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3450424</a><br>
Pie de soporte Ender 3 PSU<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3547990">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547990</a><br>
(si usted tiene la ender 3 y a estas alturas no ha girado el ventilador de la PSU para que introduzca aire del exterior, por favor, h&#xE1;galo)<br>
Ender 3 Meanwell LRP-350-24<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3947884">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3947884</a></p>
<p>FAN<br>
TAPA VENTILADOR CPU PARA ENDER 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2990894">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2990894</a></p>
<p>caj&#xF3;n<br>
(obligatorio) Portaherramientas Ender 3 - 2.0!<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4522940">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4522940</a><br>
(obligatorio) Caj&#xF3;n doble Creality Ender 3 Pro<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3416444">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3416444</a><br>
Caj&#xF3;n de esp&#xE1;tulas con tope<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4601124">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4601124</a><br>
Caja de herramientas Ender 3 Pro (2 cajones y tapas)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4275054">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4275054</a></p>
<p>(sus tapaderas se destruyeron?)<br>
clips y tapas<br>
Tapas de extremo de extrusi&#xF3;n Ender 3 Pro<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4264267">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4264267</a><br>
Cubiertas de perfil de aluminio<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4218585">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4218585</a><br>
Cadena de cable Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2920060">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060</a><br>
Clip de cable Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2949858">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949858</a><br>
(obligatorio) Tapa final anti enganche Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2940855">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2940855</a><br>
(obligatorio) Clip conector XT 60 para Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3366250">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3366250</a><br>
(obligatorio) Clip de cable Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3636942">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3636942</a><br>
(obligatorio) Protector de cable Ender 3 Pro (corte de 25 mm)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3322027">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3322027</a><br>
(obligatorio) Protector de cable Ender-3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2934313">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2934313</a></p>
<p>pies<br>
(obligatorio) soporte pies damper feet 4040 (universal and Ender-3)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3541279">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3541279</a><br>
Pies amortiguadores Ender 3 Pro<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4468206">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4468206</a></p>
<p>extra<br>
Kit de conversi&#xF3;n Turn Table<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3753657">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3753657</a><br>
Soporte de barrido fotogr&#xE1;fico<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:106568">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:106568</a><br>
Soporte de calibraci&#xF3;n Benchy &amp; XYZ<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3875066">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3875066</a><br>
(si tiene doble eje z)<br>
Herramienta de calibraci&#xF3;n Ender 3 (Pro) Dual-Z X-Gantry<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3848473">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3848473</a><br>
Ender 3 Fan Cover (Edici&#xF3;n Hot Rod) | ahora con soporte para fuente de alimentaci&#xF3;n<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3680099">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3680099</a></p>
<p>test(orden por filamento a probar)<br>
(obligatorio) 1.Torre de temperatura redonda<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4339763">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4339763</a><br>
(obligatorio) 2.Cubo para Calibrar el Flow/ flujo<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3559958">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3559958</a><br>
(obligatorio) (obligatorio) (obligatorio) (obligatorio) 3.Prueba masivo de retracciones<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4140489">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4140489</a><br>
Calibrar pasos<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4629254">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4629254</a><br>
Cubos de calibraci&#xF3;n huecos de ajedrez de 20 mm<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2115733">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115733</a><br>
Dado Dice XYZ Calibracion Calibracion<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2187632">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187632</a><br>
Muestras de filamentos personalizables<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3104482">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3104482</a></p>
<p>y para finalizar y no menos importante<br>
imprima algo bonito para usted :)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

recomendaciones ender 3 y pro

BOBINA
(obligatorio) Soporte para rodillo de rodamiento para bobina bq
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281392
portabobinas de filamento con sensor de peso de filamento integrado
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3262984
(obligatorio) Portacarretes giratorio para Ender 3 / Ender 3 pro
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579857

EXTRUSOR
(tengo y uso mi propia modificación del CR-10 Montaje modular personalizable e3D V6 para servicio pesado Volcano 5015 ABL, lo incluyo en esta publicación)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642
(obligatorio) Filtro de filamento universal o filtro de polvo (para 1,75 mm)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3033662
(obligatorio) Guía de filamentos Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195300
Soporte de cable para extrusora de aluminio BV3D Ender 3(recomiendo directamente comprar el bmg clon o el dual gear extruder pero si usted ya tiene este adelante)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3798831
BMG lateral de cambio rápido
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4618739
Fijación de racor
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683
(obligatorio) Ender 3 CR10 Direct Drive / VOLCANO
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4296799
Accesorio de presión Bondtech BMG Bowden Adapter
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3780795
(obligatorio) Hero Me Remix 2 con montaje robusto y gestión de cables ampliada
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3744260
Carcasa de ventilador compacta Red Squirrel - Ender 3 Pro - 5015 Rev1
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4170231
Cubierta de parrilla de ventilador personalizable (aconsejo no cubrir el ventilador del radiador)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802474
Ring for 4010 & 5050 fan(puede que tenga que reescalarlo)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3813567
E3D v6 Hotend - Conducto de ventilador de 40 mm
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:354723

PSU
Silenciador del ventilador de la fuente de alimentación Ender 3(no compatible con ender 3 pro)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328495
Ender 3 PSU
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3023240
Cubierta con bisagras de PSU Mean Well LRS-350 para Prusa i3 Full Bear Upgrade
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3450424
Pie de soporte Ender 3 PSU
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547990
(si usted tiene la ender 3 y a estas alturas no ha girado el ventilador de la PSU para que introduzca aire del exterior, por favor, hágalo)
Ender 3 Meanwell LRP-350-24
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3947884

FAN
TAPA VENTILADOR CPU PARA ENDER 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2990894

cajón
(obligatorio) Portaherramientas Ender 3 - 2.0!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4522940
(obligatorio) Cajón doble Creality Ender 3 Pro
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3416444
Cajón de espátulas con tope
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4601124
Caja de herramientas Ender 3 Pro (2 cajones y tapas)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4275054

(sus tapaderas se destruyeron?) 
clips y tapas
Tapas de extremo de extrusión Ender 3 Pro
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4264267
Cubiertas de perfil de aluminio
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4218585
Cadena de cable Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060
Clip de cable Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949858
(obligatorio) Tapa final anti enganche Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2940855
(obligatorio) Clip conector XT 60 para Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3366250
(obligatorio) Clip de cable Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3636942
(obligatorio) Protector de cable Ender 3 Pro (corte de 25 mm)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3322027
(obligatorio) Protector de cable Ender-3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2934313

pies
(obligatorio) soporte pies damper feet 4040 (universal and Ender-3)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3541279
Pies amortiguadores Ender 3 Pro
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4468206

extra
Kit de conversión Turn Table
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3753657
Soporte de barrido fotográfico
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:106568
Soporte de calibración Benchy & XYZ
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3875066
(si tiene doble eje z) 
Herramienta de calibración Ender 3 (Pro) Dual-Z X-Gantry
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3848473
Ender 3 Fan Cover (Edición Hot Rod) | ahora con soporte para fuente de alimentación
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3680099

test(orden por filamento a probar)
(obligatorio) 1.Torre de temperatura redonda
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4339763
(obligatorio) 2.Cubo para Calibrar el Flow/ flujo
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3559958
(obligatorio) (obligatorio) (obligatorio) (obligatorio) 3.Prueba masivo de retracciones 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4140489
Calibrar pasos
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4629254
Cubos de calibración huecos de ajedrez de 20 mm
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115733
Dado Dice XYZ Calibracion Calibracion
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187632
Muestras de filamentos personalizables
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3104482

y para finalizar y no menos importante
imprima algo bonito para usted :)



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>A LED strip holder / bar to sit in a &quot;V-Slot&quot;, looking sleek (in my eyes) and easy to print. Just scale it on X to the length you need. It will be pressed into a &quot;V-Slot&quot; and should sit tight enough, if not, put a piece of tape on one of the faces that goes into the slot.<br>
While this isn&apos;t anything unheard of, I didn&apos;t find something akin on the platform that provides a shade, personally I m very allergic towards LED that can directly looked at.</p>
<p>The design assumes the LED-strip is 8mm wide.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.25</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Sunlu+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Sunlu PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Ledstrip Holder Extrusion V-Slot Pressfit

A LED strip holder / bar to sit in a "V-Slot", looking sleek (in my eyes) and easy to print. Just scale it on X to the length you need. It will be pressed into a "V-Slot" and should sit tight enough, if not, put a piece of tape on one of the faces that goes into the slot.
While this isn't anything unheard of, I didn't find something akin on the platform that provides a shade, personally I m very allergic towards LED that can directly looked at.

The design assumes the LED-strip is 8mm wide.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Low profile version of the Redox (handwired).<br>
Uses kailh choc switches.<br>
Placed a holder for the arduino and 3.5mm plug to fit on the top plate.  I used hot glue to hold them in place.  This helped decrease the height of the bottom case.</p>
<p>lopro_redox_bottom - has tenting screw option for bottom case<br>
lopro_redox_bottom_a - does not have tenting screws option</p>
<p>lopro_redox_top - has holder for arduino pro micro and 3.5mm plug<br>
lopro_redox_top_a - holder for only the 3.5mm plug</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR-10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used supports for the top plate.  you can probably get by without support if you have good bridging</p></div>
</body></html>

Redox Low Profile Choc

Low profile version of the Redox (handwired).  
Uses kailh choc switches. 
Placed a holder for the arduino and 3.5mm plug to fit on the top plate.  I used hot glue to hold them in place.  This helped decrease the height of the bottom case.

lopro_redox_bottom - has tenting screw option for bottom case
lopro_redox_bottom_a - does not have tenting screws option

lopro_redox_top - has holder for arduino pro micro and 3.5mm plug
lopro_redox_top_a - holder for only the 3.5mm plug


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This piece was designed for art macrophotography, the idea was to create a kind of truss system, but using cheap materials, so that&apos;s we came up with.<br>
The piece it&apos;s design for our Gslot aluminum profile, but if you like the idea, we will add the step file in case that you want to adapt it to another type of profile.</p>
<p>You will create a 8080 truss.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Mendel Max XL V6</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Sprectrum+Filaments+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Sprectrum Filaments PETG                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Gslot 8080 Joint

This piece was designed for art macrophotography, the idea was to create a kind of truss system, but using cheap materials, so that's we came up with.
The piece it's design for our Gslot aluminum profile, but if you like the idea, we will add the step file in case that you want to adapt it to another type of profile.

You will create a 8080 truss.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Eine Brodit kompatible Halterung f&#xFC;r das iPhone 12 und iPhone 12 Pro. Es handelt sich um eine Grundplatte f&#xFC;r die aktive Halterung mit Kabelaufnahme. Kugelgelenk und Kabelaufnahme m&#xFC;ssen von der alten Halterung &#xFC;bernommen werden.</p>
<h3>Folgende Versionen sind vorhanden:</h3>
<ul><li>Normal</li>
<li>Normal<em>wide (um 0,3mm verbreitert</em> Platz f&#xFC;r Softtape bzw. Kanntenschutz)</li>
<li>Light (mit Aussparungen - weniger Material)</li>
<li>Light (wie light aber um 0,3mm verbreitert: Platz f&#xFC;r Softtape bzw. Kanntenschutz)</li>
<li>Low-Profile (Hat eine Vertiefun f&#xFC;r die Aufnahemplatte des Kugelgelenks - dadurch tr&#xE4;gt die Halterung weniger auf)</li>
<li>Low-Profile_wide (wie light aber um 0,3mm verbreitert: Platz f&#xFC;r Softtape bzw. Kanntenschutz)</li>
</ul><h3>Work in Progress Status:</h3>
<ul><li>dritter Testdruck steht an</li>
</ul><hr><p>A Brodit compatible cradle for iPhone 12 and iPhone 12 Pro. It is a base plate for the active cradle with cable holder. Ball joint and cable holder must be taken over from the old cradle.</p>
<h3>The following versions are available:</h3>
<ul><li>Normal</li>
<li>Normal<em>wide (widened by 0.3mm</em> space for soft tape or edge protection)</li>
<li>Light (with recesses - less material)</li>
<li>Light (like light but widened by 0.3mm: space for soft tape or edge protection)</li>
<li>Low-profile (has a recess for the mounting plate of the ball-and-socket joint - this reduces the load on the bracket)</li>
<li>Low-Profile_wide (like light but widened by 0.3mm: space for soft tape or edge protection)</li>
</ul><p>Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.12</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>40%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Extrudr+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Extrudr PETG                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

iPhone 12 Pro Brodit Compatible Mount

Eine Brodit kompatible Halterung für das iPhone 12 und iPhone 12 Pro. Es handelt sich um eine Grundplatte für die aktive Halterung mit Kabelaufnahme. Kugelgelenk und Kabelaufnahme müssen von der alten Halterung übernommen werden.

Folgende Versionen sind vorhanden:
---------
- Normal
- Normal_wide (um 0,3mm verbreitert_ Platz für Softtape bzw. Kanntenschutz)
- Light (mit Aussparungen - weniger Material)
- Light (wie light aber um 0,3mm verbreitert: Platz für Softtape bzw. Kanntenschutz)
- Low-Profile (Hat eine Vertiefun für die Aufnahemplatte des Kugelgelenks - dadurch trägt die Halterung weniger auf)
- Low-Profile_wide (wie light aber um 0,3mm verbreitert: Platz für Softtape bzw. Kanntenschutz)

Work in Progress Status:
------
- dritter Testdruck steht an

-----

A Brodit compatible cradle for iPhone 12 and iPhone 12 Pro. It is a base plate for the active cradle with cable holder. Ball joint and cable holder must be taken over from the old cradle.

The following versions are available:
---------
- Normal
- Normal_wide (widened by 0.3mm_ space for soft tape or edge protection)
- Light (with recesses - less material)
- Light (like light but widened by 0.3mm: space for soft tape or edge protection)
- Low-profile (has a recess for the mounting plate of the ball-and-socket joint - this reduces the load on the bracket)
- Low-Profile_wide (like light but widened by 0.3mm: space for soft tape or edge protection)

Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Deutsch</h3>
<p>Das ist meine Version eines Exo-Skeletts f&#xFC;r den Anet A8. Die Teile sind dabei aber so simpel gestaltet, dass aus ihnen durchaus auch Gestelle und Rahmen f&#xFC;r andere Dinge hergestellt werden k&#xF6;nnen.</p>
<p>Zun&#xE4;chst hatte ich die Versteifung des A8 mit diagonalen M8 Gewindest&#xE4;ben wie sie oft zu sehen ist. Diese war mir aber aus 4 Gr&#xFC;nden nicht mehr gut genug:</p>
<ul><li>Optik</li>
<li>St&#xF6;rend beim zugriff auf den Bauraum</li>
<li>Die seitlichen Originalteile des Rahmens konnten immer noch in sich verdrehen (Torsion)</li>
<li>Umst&#xE4;ndlich auszurichten wenn man an der Z-Achse gebaut hat.</li>
</ul><p>Mein Exo-Skelett besteht im Wesentlich aus Aluminium Profilen vom Baumarkt in den Abmessung 27,5 x 15,5mm. Selbst gedruckt kommen hinzu:</p>
<ul><li>4 Ecken bestehen aus je 2 Teilen (Au&#xDF;enteil in 2 Versionen)</li>
<li>4 Standf&#xFC;&#xDF;e</li>
<li>2 Einfassungen f&#xFC;r den Originalrahmen bestehen aus Oberteil, Unterteil und Schale f&#xFC;r 806Z Kugellager (Optional)</li>
<li>2 T-St&#xFC;cken f&#xFC;r die Querstrebe </li>
<li>2 Halterungen mit 30&#xB0; Drehung f&#xFC;r M8 Gewindestab (Diagonale Festigung)</li>
</ul><p>Die Einfassungen ersetzen die oberen Abdeckungen f&#xFC;r die Linearf&#xFC;hrung und fassen den Anet A8 Rahmen formb&#xFC;ndig. Sie besitzen eine Durchf&#xFC;hrung f&#xFC;r das Aluminiumprofil. Die Unterseite hat eine Aufnahme f&#xFC;r die die Linearf&#xFC;hrung, welche sehr eng gehalten ist um Schwingungen zu reduzieren. Zus&#xE4;tzlich kann ein Kugellage f&#xFC;r die Trapetzgewindestange eingesetzt werden. Dies ist Optional, da es hier verschiedenen Meinungen gibt ob das gut und sinnvoll ist oder nicht. F&#xFC;r meinen A8 funktioniert es super, aber ich habe hochwertige Linearf&#xFC;hrungen und Spindeln eingesetzt an Stelle der Originalen Teile.</p>
<p>Der Rahmen ist f&#xFC;r die Montage auf einer Grundplatte (zusammen mit dem A8) gedacht. Bei richtigem Aufbau korrigiert er Neigungen in allen Achsen welche durch den Originalrahmen nicht sicher vermieden werden k&#xF6;nnen. Durch Reduzierung von Torsion und in Verbindung mit einer Rahmenverst&#xE4;rkung des A8 sind hohe Genauigkeiten bei hohen Geschwindigkeiten (100mm/s) durchaus machbar.</p>
<p><b>Achtung! Dadurch, dass der Wagen f&#xFC;r den Extruder bei Verwendung des Kugellagers f&#xFC;r die Spindel nicht mehr so leicht um die X-Achse Kippen kann muss genau auf die Extrudereinstellung geachtet werden, sonst kann der Druckkopf an zu dicken Layern h&#xE4;ngen bleiben und die Y-Achse verliert dabei schon mal ganz gerne ein paar Schritte.</b></p>
<p>Die Teile sind sehr eng ausgelegt, ggf. m&#xFC;sst Ihr sie nach dem Druck nachbearbeiten oder entsprechend Skalieren. Zu locker sollten sie nicht sitzen.  </p>
<p>Hoffe mein nunmehr 13ter Beitrag gef&#xE4;llt euch. Fragen und Anregung gerne in den Kommentaren. Freue mich &#xFC;ber Makes und Likes. </p>
<p><span style="color: blue;"><br>
Wer etwas spenden m&#xF6;chte kann dies &#xFC;ber Paypal gerne tun.<br>
paypal.me/TorstenJust</span></p>
<p>Habt Spa&#xDF; beim Drucken! :)</p>
<p><b>Update:</b><br>
12.11.2020 - Fehlende T-St&#xFC;cke erg&#xE4;nzt und Halterungen f&#xFC;r diagonale Verstrebung hinzugef&#xFC;gt</p>
<h3>English </h3>
<p>(Google-Translation)</p>
<p>This is my version of an exoskeleton for the Anet A8. The parts are designed so simply that they can also be used to make racks and frames for other things.</p>
<p>First, I had the stiffening of the A8 with diagonal M8 threaded rods as you can often see them. But this was no longer good enough for me for 4 reasons:</p>
<ul><li>optics</li>
<li>Disruptive when accessing the installation space</li>
<li>The original side parts of the frame could still twist in themselves (torsion)</li>
<li>Difficult to align when you have built on the Z-axis.</li>
</ul><p>My exo-skeleton consists essentially of aluminum profiles from the hardware store in the dimensions 27.5 x 15.5mm. Also printed are:</p>
<ul><li>4 corners consist of 2 parts each (Outer Part in 2 Versions)</li>
<li>4 feet</li>
<li>2 frames for the original frame consist of an upper part, a lower part and a shell for 806Z ball bearings (optional)</li>
<li>2 T-pieces for the cross brace</li>
<li>2 brackets with 30 &#xB0; rotation for M8 threaded rod (diagonal fastening)</li>
</ul><p>The bezels replace the upper covers for the linear guide and hold the Anet A8 frame flush. They have a bushing for the aluminum profile. The underside has a mount for the linear guide, which is kept very close to reduce vibrations. In addition, a ball bearing can be used for the trapezoidal threaded rod. This is optional, as there are different opinions as to whether this is good and sensible or not. It works great for my A8, but I used high quality linear guides and spindles instead of the original parts.</p>
<p>The frame is intended for mounting on a base plate (together with the A8). If set up correctly, it corrects inclinations in all axes which cannot be safely avoided with the original frame. By reducing torsion and in connection with a frame reinforcement of the A8, high accuracies at high speeds (100mm / s) are quite feasible.</p>
<p><b> Attention! Because the carriage for the extruder can no longer tilt so easily around the X-axis when using the ball bearing for the spindle, you must pay close attention to the extruder setting, otherwise the print head can get stuck on layers that are too thick and possibly lose a few steps on y-axis. </b></p>
<p>The parts are designed very tightly, you may have to rework them after printing or scale them accordingly. They shouldn&apos;t sit too loosely.</p>
<p>Hope you like my now 13th post. Questions and suggestions are welcome in the comments. I&apos;m happy about makes and likes.</p>
<p><span style="color: blue;"><br>
If you want to donate some money, you can do so via PayPal.<br>
paypal.me/TorstenJust </span></p>
<p>Have fun printing! :)</p>
<p><b> Update: </b><br>
11/12/2020 - Missing T-Pieces added and brackets for diagonal bracing added</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>60%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Any+PLA%2C+PETG+or+other&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Any PLA, PETG or other                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Ich habe meine Teile aus PLA gefertigt, wom&#xF6;glich w&#xE4;re PETG besser geeignet um den Schwingungen dauerhaft zu widerstehen. Die Zeit wird es zeigen. :)</p>
<p>Google-Translation:<br>
I made my parts from PLA, maybe PETG would be better suited to permanently withstand the vibrations. The time will tell. :)</p></div>
</body></html>

Modular exoskeleton for Anet A8 or frame parts for other devices

<h1>Deutsch</h1>

Das ist meine Version eines Exo-Skeletts für den Anet A8. Die Teile sind dabei aber so simpel gestaltet, dass aus ihnen durchaus auch Gestelle und Rahmen für andere Dinge hergestellt werden können.

Zunächst hatte ich die Versteifung des A8 mit diagonalen M8 Gewindestäben wie sie oft zu sehen ist. Diese war mir aber aus 4 Gründen nicht mehr gut genug:
- Optik
- Störend beim zugriff auf den Bauraum
- Die seitlichen Originalteile des Rahmens konnten immer noch in sich verdrehen (Torsion)
- Umständlich auszurichten wenn man an der Z-Achse gebaut hat.

Mein Exo-Skelett besteht im Wesentlich aus Aluminium Profilen vom Baumarkt in den Abmessung 27,5 x 15,5mm. Selbst gedruckt kommen hinzu:

- 4 Ecken bestehen aus je 2 Teilen (Außenteil in 2 Versionen)
- 4 Standfüße
- 2 Einfassungen für den Originalrahmen bestehen aus Oberteil, Unterteil und Schale für 806Z Kugellager (Optional)
- 2 T-Stücken für die Querstrebe 
- 2 Halterungen mit 30° Drehung für M8 Gewindestab (Diagonale Festigung)

Die Einfassungen ersetzen die oberen Abdeckungen für die Linearführung und fassen den Anet A8 Rahmen formbündig. Sie besitzen eine Durchführung für das Aluminiumprofil. Die Unterseite hat eine Aufnahme für die die Linearführung, welche sehr eng gehalten ist um Schwingungen zu reduzieren. Zusätzlich kann ein Kugellage für die Trapetzgewindestange eingesetzt werden. Dies ist Optional, da es hier verschiedenen Meinungen gibt ob das gut und sinnvoll ist oder nicht. Für meinen A8 funktioniert es super, aber ich habe hochwertige Linearführungen und Spindeln eingesetzt an Stelle der Originalen Teile.

Der Rahmen ist für die Montage auf einer Grundplatte (zusammen mit dem A8) gedacht. Bei richtigem Aufbau korrigiert er Neigungen in allen Achsen welche durch den Originalrahmen nicht sicher vermieden werden können. Durch Reduzierung von Torsion und in Verbindung mit einer Rahmenverstärkung des A8 sind hohe Genauigkeiten bei hohen Geschwindigkeiten (100mm/s) durchaus machbar.

<b>Achtung! Dadurch, dass der Wagen für den Extruder bei Verwendung des Kugellagers für die Spindel nicht mehr so leicht um die X-Achse Kippen kann muss genau auf die Extrudereinstellung geachtet werden, sonst kann der Druckkopf an zu dicken Layern hängen bleiben und die Y-Achse verliert dabei schon mal ganz gerne ein paar Schritte.</b>

Die Teile sind sehr eng ausgelegt, ggf. müsst Ihr sie nach dem Druck nachbearbeiten oder entsprechend Skalieren. Zu locker sollten sie nicht sitzen.  

Hoffe mein nunmehr 13ter Beitrag gefällt euch. Fragen und Anregung gerne in den Kommentaren. Freue mich über Makes und Likes. 

<font color="blue">
Wer etwas spenden möchte kann dies über Paypal gerne tun.
paypal.me/TorstenJust</font>


Habt Spaß beim Drucken! :)

<b>Update:</b>
12.11.2020 - Fehlende T-Stücke ergänzt und Halterungen für diagonale Verstrebung hinzugefügt


<h1>English </h1>
(Google-Translation)


This is my version of an exoskeleton for the Anet A8. The parts are designed so simply that they can also be used to make racks and frames for other things.

First, I had the stiffening of the A8 with diagonal M8 threaded rods as you can often see them. But this was no longer good enough for me for 4 reasons:
- optics
- Disruptive when accessing the installation space
- The original side parts of the frame could still twist in themselves (torsion)
- Difficult to align when you have built on the Z-axis.

My exo-skeleton consists essentially of aluminum profiles from the hardware store in the dimensions 27.5 x 15.5mm. Also printed are:

- 4 corners consist of 2 parts each (Outer Part in 2 Versions)
- 4 feet
- 2 frames for the original frame consist of an upper part, a lower part and a shell for 806Z ball bearings (optional)
- 2 T-pieces for the cross brace
- 2 brackets with 30 ° rotation for M8 threaded rod (diagonal fastening)

The bezels replace the upper covers for the linear guide and hold the Anet A8 frame flush. They have a bushing for the aluminum profile. The underside has a mount for the linear guide, which is kept very close to reduce vibrations. In addition, a ball bearing can be used for the trapezoidal threaded rod. This is optional, as there are different opinions as to whether this is good and sensible or not. It works great for my A8, but I used high quality linear guides and spindles instead of the original parts.

The frame is intended for mounting on a base plate (together with the A8). If set up correctly, it corrects inclinations in all axes which cannot be safely avoided with the original frame. By reducing torsion and in connection with a frame reinforcement of the A8, high accuracies at high speeds (100mm / s) are quite feasible.

<b> Attention! Because the carriage for the extruder can no longer tilt so easily around the X-axis when using the ball bearing for the spindle, you must pay close attention to the extruder setting, otherwise the print head can get stuck on layers that are too thick and possibly lose a few steps on y-axis. </b>

The parts are designed very tightly, you may have to rework them after printing or scale them accordingly. They shouldn't sit too loosely.

Hope you like my now 13th post. Questions and suggestions are welcome in the comments. I'm happy about makes and likes.

<font color = "blue">
If you want to donate some money, you can do so via PayPal.
paypal.me/TorstenJust </font>


Have fun printing! :)


<b> Update: </b>
11/12/2020 - Missing T-Pieces added and brackets for diagonal bracing added


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Wire management for the back printer cables. For dual slotted aluminium extrusion profile 4040 or 4020. Snap-clip clamp with twisted (90 degrees) orientation.</p>
<p>It is agains the risk of blocking hot bed movement by cables going to the extruder (higher Z values).</p>
<p>Infill: 15 %, Support: No, print it on its back (as blue render).</p></div>
</body></html>

Back (Extruder) Cable Clip (Ender 3)

Wire management for the back printer cables. For dual slotted aluminium extrusion profile 4040 or 4020. Snap-clip clamp with twisted (90 degrees) orientation.

It is agains the risk of blocking hot bed movement by cables going to the extruder (higher Z values).

Infill: 15 %, Support: No, print it on its back (as blue render).

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Needs M5x10mm, M5x10mm or M5x6mm bolt, and 4mm wide PTFE tube.<br>
Use 4mm drill bit if PTFE tube doesn&apos;t wand to go through the hole.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Noname+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Noname PLA                    </a>

                    Orange
</body></html>

Ball Joint Filament Guide for 2040 Extrusion

Needs M5x10mm, M5x10mm or M5x6mm bolt, and 4mm wide PTFE tube.
Use 4mm drill bit if PTFE tube doesn't wand to go through the hole.

Thingscanner

Some articles you might like