Low-poly 3D models are hugely popular with 3D printing hobbyists. Here's a list of the best sites to find low-poly 3D printables.

Best Sites for Low-Poly 3D Models | All3DP

The AutoCompounder allows for the easy creation of “poly-pills”, which combine different medications into one personalized pill.

Meet the AutoCompounder: The 3D Printer Combines All Your Medicine Into One Pill | All3DP

Check out this collection of low-poly Pokemon by Agustin Flowalistik. Download and 3D print them for yourself. Pikachu, we choose YOU.

Get The Pokémon Go Experience with Amazing Low-Poly Pokemon | All3DP

Internet giant Google has opened a 3D asset library. Called Poly, the repository teems with everyday and exotic objects for VR/AR creation.

Google Launches Poly, a Full-Color 3D Model Library | All3DP

International 3D printing day has come and gone, but these low-poly Darth Vader and Stormtrooper models by Agustin Flowalistik make a nice souvenir.

Funky Darth Vader and Stormtrooper Models for 3D Printing Day | All3DP

Interested in making your own low-poly 3D models? Learn how to do it using two of the most popular 3D software: Blender and Sketchup.

Low-Poly 3D Models – All You Need to Know | All3DP

3DRap, an Italian start-up, is launching their first 3D printer on Kickstarter this week which is up-cycled and eco-friendly.

Poly Is A Battery-Powered, Biodegradable, Up-Cycled 3D Printer | All3DP

Student engineers use 3D printing to improve vehicle design -- with an emphasis on efficient fuel consumption -- for the Shell EcoMarathon.

Cal Poly Supermileage Club Uses 3D Printing in Shell EcoMarathon | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Polygons with 3d-printed strands as mechanical reinforcements.</p>
<p>To introduce stiffness to a polygonal frame multiple triangles are inscribed into the shape, changing rotation with z-height. The triangles themselves are strands of filament extruded into the air. This technique is called bridging, because it doesn&apos;t make use of support structures (eventually the different triangles may touch each other). Each strand consist of two layers.</p>
<p>The diameter of all three polygons - pentagon, hexagon and heptagon - is approximately 10cm. The rotation of the triangle is bound to 1/3 of the length of the polygon outline, not to an angle. Therefore this principle is adaptive to the applied shape and every curve point is connected to exactly two strands. The result has a relative high stiffness compared to the amount of material used.</p>
<p>Geometry was created using Rhino/Grasshopper.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Generic Printer</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Grey
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>The examples were printed using the default &quot;0.2mm Quality&quot; from PrusaSlicer on a Prusa i3 MK3S. Extrusion width was 0.45mm, &quot;Thin Walls&quot; option should not be necessary.</p></div>
</body></html>

Stiffened Polygons

Polygons with 3d-printed strands as mechanical reinforcements.

To introduce stiffness to a polygonal frame multiple triangles are inscribed into the shape, changing rotation with z-height. The triangles themselves are strands of filament extruded into the air. This technique is called bridging, because it doesn't make use of support structures (eventually the different triangles may touch each other). Each strand consist of two layers.

The diameter of all three polygons - pentagon, hexagon and heptagon - is approximately 10cm. The rotation of the triangle is bound to 1/3 of the length of the polygon outline, not to an angle. Therefore this principle is adaptive to the applied shape and every curve point is connected to exactly two strands. The result has a relative high stiffness compared to the amount of material used.

Geometry was created using Rhino/Grasshopper.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Brought the stl into Blender and decimated it. Thought the poly count was a tad high before.</p>
<p>Thanks to TK3DPrinting for original model.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Sunlu+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Sunlu PLA                    </a>

                    Blue
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>The adjusted polys allow for no chin support.</p></div>
</body></html>

True Low Poly Gecko

Brought the stl into Blender and decimated it. Thought the poly count was a tad high before.

Thanks to TK3DPrinting for original model.

Polymaker Polysher Platter

Polyspast for the Z axis of the BLV printer. Cheap option.

Сначала английский текст, а ниже можно прочитать на русском.

 
   After assembling the printer using T8 screws 700mm long, I was not satisfied with the print quality on the z axis.it was decided to change something. There are not so many polispast projects, and naturally I didn't find any for BLV. After studying what was available, I started modeling my own. The problem was that most of the projects were on console tables, but our table is held on two rails, one on each side. Initially, the project was implemented on a seven-string polispast, but an unpleasant defect was revealed due to the table mounting features. Get rid of it by reducing the number of strings to three. This version is cheaper in terms of buying goods from Aliexpress, but you will have to Tinker with printing the gear gear. The reduction ratio is 5.2 to 1. And the sides are synchronized using the M8 stud that connects to the M8 bolts using 8*8 mm rigid couplings.608zz ABEC-9 bearings were used. They are bigger, more reliable and most importantly cheaper than 623zz.
   This project is not finished due to the lack of a top mount for the three-string version. I just took the 7-string mount and sawed off part of it. 
   Recommended printing parameters:
number of perimeters 2-4 ( I printed with two perimeters) the
Upper mount should be printed with 90-100% filling.
Everything else can be printed from 30%
   List of necessary purchases:
M8*65mm bolts 2 PCs-it is possible and even better longer, it will be more convenient to attach the couplings for synchronization.
M8 stud length depends on the distance between the bolts but 50cm-1m is enough for sure
5m remtya GT-2-enough end-to-end in the photo below you can see it. 
12 PCs of 608zz bearings - if you remove one at the bottom that serve to parallel the belts, then 10 PCs will be enough.
screws:
M4-55 2pcs 
M3-20 2pcs
M3-30 10pcs
M4-10 8pcs
Shaft coupling D14L25, aluminum coupling with hole 8X8mm 2pcs

Like all described if you can think of that will add. If you have any questions, please contact @B_morge .
________________________________________________________________________
   После сборки принтера с использованием T8 винтов длинной 700мм меня не устроило качество печати по оси Z. Было принято решение что-то  менять. Проектов полиспаста не так много и естественно для BLV не нашел. Изучив что было в наличии приступил к моделированию своего собственного. Затруднение было в том что большинство проектов были на консольных столах, у нас же стол держится на двух рельсах по одной с каждой стороны. Изначально проект реализовывался на семиструнном полиспасте но выявился неприятный дефект из-за особенностей крепления стола. Избавится от его получилось уменьшением количества струн до трех. Данная версия более дешевая в плане покупки товаров с Aliexpress, но вам придется повозится с напечатыванием шестерней редуктора. Коэффициент редукции составляет 5,2 к 1. И синхронизация сторон производится при помощи шпильки М8 соединяющейся с болтами М8 при помощи жестких муфт 8*8 мм.Использовались 608zz подшипники ABEC-9. Они больше,надежнее и главное дешевле чем 623zz.
   Данный проект не закончен по причине отсутствия верхнего крепления для трех струнной версии. Я просто взял крепление для 7 струн и отпилил от его часть. 
   Рекомендуемые параметры печати:
Количество периметров 2-4 ( я печатал с двумя периметрами)
Верхнее крепление нужно распечатать со 90-100% заполнением.
Все остальный можно печатать с 30%
   Список необходимых покупок:
M8*65мм  болты 2 шт - можно и даже лучше длиннее, будет удобнее крепить муфты для синхронизации.
Шпилька М8 длина зависит от расстояния между болтов но 50см-1м хватит точно
5м ремтя GT-2 - хватает впритык на фото ниже это можно увидеть. 
12 шт подшипников 608zz - если убрать по одному в нижней части которые служат для параллельности ремней то хватит и 10шт.
винты:
M4-55 2шт 
М3-20 2шт
М3-30 10шт
М4-10 8шт
Муфта для вала D14L25, алюминиевая муфта с отверстием 8X8mm 2шт

Обновление
08.11.20:
 *Улучшено крепление к рельсе (Mounting_to_the_rail_3_strings_2.0)
 *Добавлены верхние крепления для 3х струн (right_top_mount_3_strings, left_top_mount_3_strings)
 *Добавлена крышка для верхнего крепления под 3 струны(cover_of_the_upper_mount_3_strings) можно отзеркалить.
 *Добавлены крепление моторов под китайский ременной редуктор
вот такой https://aliexpress.ru/item/32981794700.html
их можно найти по ссылке: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4647513
 *Добавлен печатный редуктор( забыл загрузить его файлы)

В связи с тем что исходных файлов редуктора не было пришлось вручную переводить в твердое тело. С большой шестерней фьюжен справился, а вот с малой нет. Оригинальные размеры редуктора не подходили, шестерни даже не цепляли друг друга. Пришлось масштабировать. У большой шестерни все отверстия соответствуют необходимым, а вот с малой немного придется повозится. Если просто распечатать малую шестерню то внутреннее отверстие будет больше чем 5 мм. Для компенсации этого есть вставка (Inserting_in_small_gear) ее нужно при слайсинге расположить внутри малой шестерни как это продемонстрировано на фотографиях. После печати нужно просверлить отверстия 3 мм сверлом отверстия для крепления к валу мотора. 

Вроде все описал если что-то вспомню то добавлю. По вопросам можно обращаться в телегам @B_morge .

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>The rhombic dodecahedron is one of the few polyhedra that tiles 3D space, but it can be difficult to visualize.</p>
<p>Here are two options for magnetic rhombic dodecahedron blocks. All magnets used where purchased through www.kjmagnetics.com.</p>
<p>Small</p>
<p>The &#x201C;Small&#x201D; block is easier and cheaper to make and requires only one 1/4&#x201D; x 1/8&#x201D; magnet. The downside is that it doesn&#x2019;t hold together as well and is only suitable for small clusters.</p>
<p>For each block, print two of each &#x201C;Small &#x2013; Inner Magnet Holder&#x201D; and &#x201C;Small &#x2013; Outer Rhombic Dodecahedron Block&#x201D;. Snap a 1/4&#x201D; x 1/8&#x201D; magnet between the two hemispheric Inner Magnet Holders and clamp together with pliers. You usually won&#x2019;t need glue for this. Ensure that the inner surfaces of the Outer Rhombic Dodecahedron Block are free of any burrs or imperfections, place the ball containing the magnet inside and ensure that it can rotate freely. Using a very small amount of glue, glue the two Outer Rhombic Dodecahedron Blocks together being careful that glue does not squeeze inside and prevent the magnet ball from rotating. When placing two of the small blocks together, the magnet will rotate inside to maximize attraction between neighbouring blocks.</p>
<p>Large</p>
<p>The &#x201C;Large&#x201D; block is challenging to make and requires twenty-four 1/8&#x201D; by 1/16&#x201D; magnets for each block. The benefit is that is holds together very well and is just really cool to play with. Every face connects solidly with every other face in any direction, so the more blocks you use the stronger the structure gets. If you enjoy this type of geometry, it is worth the effort!</p>
<p>The &#x201C;Large &#x2013; With supports&#x201D; is ready to print as is. Use the &#x201C;Large &#x2013; No Supports&#x201D; if you would like to add your own supports. It is easiest to smooth and remove any imperfections from the surface before inserting the magnets.</p>
<p>Proper orientation of the magnets is critical. Insert the magnets so that the poles facing the center of each rhombic face alternate N-S-N-S.</p>
<p>Here is one approach. Insert the first magnet, orientation doesn&#x2019;t matter. Now stick a second magnet temporarily edge-to-edge with the first. This ensures that the rhombic face-oriented pole of the second magnet facing is the opposite of the rhombic face-oriented pole of the first magnet. Unstick the magnets and rotate the second magnet to one of the neighbouring holes keeping the same pole oriented towards the center of the rhombi face. Insert the second magnet. Following the same process, magnet to magnet, until all the holes are filled.</p>
<p>The magnets can be press fit into the hole with pliers, no glue needed..</p></div>
</body></html>

Magnetic Rhombic Dodecahedron Blocks

The rhombic dodecahedron is one of the few polyhedra that tiles 3D space, but it can be difficult to visualize.

Here are two options for magnetic rhombic dodecahedron blocks. All magnets used where purchased through www.kjmagnetics.com.

Small

The “Small” block is easier and cheaper to make and requires only one 1/4” x 1/8” magnet. The downside is that it doesn’t hold together as well and is only suitable for small clusters.

For each block, print two of each “Small – Inner Magnet Holder” and “Small – Outer Rhombic Dodecahedron Block”. Snap a 1/4” x 1/8” magnet between the two hemispheric Inner Magnet Holders and clamp together with pliers. You usually won’t need glue for this. Ensure that the inner surfaces of the Outer Rhombic Dodecahedron Block are free of any burrs or imperfections, place the ball containing the magnet inside and ensure that it can rotate freely. Using a very small amount of glue, glue the two Outer Rhombic Dodecahedron Blocks together being careful that glue does not squeeze inside and prevent the magnet ball from rotating. When placing two of the small blocks together, the magnet will rotate inside to maximize attraction between neighbouring blocks.

Large

The “Large” block is challenging to make and requires twenty-four 1/8” by 1/16” magnets for each block. The benefit is that is holds together very well and is just really cool to play with. Every face connects solidly with every other face in any direction, so the more blocks you use the stronger the structure gets. If you enjoy this type of geometry, it is worth the effort!

The “Large – With supports” is ready to print as is. Use the “Large – No Supports” if you would like to add your own supports. It is easiest to smooth and remove any imperfections from the surface before inserting the magnets.

Proper orientation of the magnets is critical. Insert the magnets so that the poles facing the center of each rhombic face alternate N-S-N-S.

Here is one approach. Insert the first magnet, orientation doesn’t matter. Now stick a second magnet temporarily edge-to-edge with the first. This ensures that the rhombic face-oriented pole of the second magnet facing is the opposite of the rhombic face-oriented pole of the first magnet. Unstick the magnets and rotate the second magnet to one of the neighbouring holes keeping the same pole oriented towards the center of the rhombi face. Insert the second magnet. Following the same process, magnet to magnet, until all the holes are filled.

The magnets can be press fit into the hole with pliers, no glue needed..

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>low poly wizard i made in 5 minutes </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

wizard

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just a large container for random things on a pegboard.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Duramic+3D+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Duramic 3D PLA                    </a>

                    Red
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Print with support on buildplate only.</p></div>
</body></html>

Lager container for pegboard

Just a large container for random things on a pegboard.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Penstand</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

Polygon pen-holder

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Hello,<br>
my first upload and my first blender to print creation.<br>
A simple lowpoly deer.<br>
Prints without support - the hole for the nail could be more polished - but it works!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0,2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Any+PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Any PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Any Color
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Standard settings are ok - maybe an other angle would help for the antler.<br>
The bigger you print - the better is the result</p></div>
</body></html>

Deer

Hello,
my first upload and my first blender to print creation.
A simple lowpoly deer.
Prints without support - the hole for the nail could be more polished - but it works!


Doppelganger

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just a 3D model for the lovers of this fire pokemon</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.12</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Solutech+Premium+Filament+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Solutech Premium Filament PLA                    </a>

                    White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used White Solutech Premium PLA, with my Ender 3<br>
I use Blender for mi 3D Models</p></div>
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High Poly Typholsion Pokemon

Just a 3D model for the lovers of this fire pokemon

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I needed a new lampshade for my bedroom because the old one sucked big time, so I made this one based on a particular polyhedron called &quot;icosidodecahedron&quot; (more about it on wikipedia : <a rel="nofollow" href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icosidodecahedron">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icosidodecahedron</a>).</p>
<p>The lamp is made of pentagon frames screwed together with M3 screws, and various lids easily clipped on those frames for easy customization.</p>
<p>The whole thing is 35cm large and weights less than 400g.</p>
<p>I also provided some patterns you can print and glue on the pentagons to customize it more to your liking. If you want to add these on the pentagon lids, you can just use some glue or double sided tape.</p>
<p>Parts needed for a fully enclosed shade :</p>
<ul><li><strong>12x</strong> pentagon frames</li>
<li><strong>11x</strong> pentagon lids</li>
<li><strong>20x</strong> triangle lids</li>
<li><strong>1x</strong> e27 shade ring</li>
<li><strong>25x</strong> M3X4 screws</li>
<li><strong>5x</strong> M3x8 screws</li>
</ul><p>I personally chose to print only 15 triangle lids and let the 5 top triangles open to let the light draw a nice star shaped pattern on the ceiling.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Sunlu+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Sunlu PLA                    </a>

                    Black and White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I printed everything with PLA+ from <strong>Sunlu</strong> in black and white, with supports and brims to avoid warping on the frames (but they are minimal).</p>
<p>For better results when printing the pentagon and triangle lids, you need to have a perfectly leveled bed.</p></div>
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Polyhedra Lampshade

I needed a new lampshade for my bedroom because the old one sucked big time, so I made this one based on a particular polyhedron called "icosidodecahedron" (more about it on wikipedia : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Icosidodecahedron).

The lamp is made of pentagon frames screwed together with M3 screws, and various lids easily clipped on those frames for easy customization.

The whole thing is 35cm large and weights less than 400g.

I also provided some patterns you can print and glue on the pentagons to customize it more to your liking. If you want to add these on the pentagon lids, you can just use some glue or double sided tape.

Parts needed for a fully enclosed shade :

- **12x** pentagon frames
- **11x** pentagon lids
- **20x** triangle lids
- **1x** e27 shade ring
- **25x** M3X4 screws
- **5x** M3x8 screws

I personally chose to print only 15 triangle lids and let the 5 top triangles open to let the light draw a nice star shaped pattern on the ceiling.





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