Reviewing the Pharaoh ED 3D printer, with Delta Robot Technology that prints at faster speeds with lower levels of vibration and noise.

Pharaoh ED Review: A 3D Printer Fit For a King? | All3DP

Art installation White Noise pits consumption vs. conservation against each other on Twitter to determine the fate of an AR coral reef.

White Noise AR Art Shows Us We're All Terrible People | All3DP

When it comes to 3D printing noise, the fan is often the main culprit. Learn all about the best options for your Ender 3.

Ender 3 Fan: What to Consider & Which to Buy | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/dKNUsFJgSOQ">https://youtu.be/dKNUsFJgSOQ</a></p>
<p>Use glue or double-sided tape to attach (Silencer) to the bottom of the power supply (cooling fan hole)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>
</body></html>

Ender 3 V2 - Silence Your Noisy Cooling Fans

https://youtu.be/dKNUsFJgSOQ

Use glue or double-sided tape to attach (Silencer) to the bottom of the power supply (cooling fan hole)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I have combined three ideas together:&#xA0;</p>
<ul><li>air duct goes to the back&#xA0;(<a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3991193">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3991193</a>)</li>
<li>reduce the noise with shock of&#xA0;the air waves in the inner fins (rungs) round holes&#xA0;(<a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4251317">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4251317</a>)</li>
<li>bed lever reminder on top (<a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3505548">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3505548</a>)</li>
</ul><p>Noise is directed to the back of the printer -&#xA0;I measured noise reduction about 6 db!</p>
<p>Basic version has length&#xA0;10 cm, extended version 12 cm.</p>
<p>I just used black marker to highlight the text.</p>
<p>Infill: 15%, Support: No, Enable Bridge Settings: Yes (Cura - Experimental)</p>
<p>Check also my fan silencer for power supply unit: <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4631303">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4631303</a></p>
<p>Please share your makes and send me your thoughts about this thing! <a rel="nofollow" href="https://paypal.me/timqui">TIPS</a> are welcome. Thank you for your support.</p></div>
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CPU/main board fan silencer (Ender 3)

I have combined three ideas together: 
- air duct goes to the back (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3991193)
- reduce the noise with shock of the air waves in the inner fins (rungs) round holes (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4251317)
- bed lever reminder on top (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3505548)

Noise is directed to the back of the printer - I measured noise reduction about 6 db!

Basic version has length 10 cm, extended version 12 cm.

I just used black marker to highlight the text.

Infill: 15%, Support: No, Enable Bridge Settings: Yes (Cura - Experimental)

Check also my fan silencer for power supply unit: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4631303

Please share your makes and send me your thoughts about this thing! [TIPS](https://paypal.me/timqui) are welcome. Thank you for your support.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Looking to reduce noise and resonance from my Ender 3 V2 during printing, and also raise the machine slightly to allow for fitment of baffles/silencers on PSU and maybe later on motherboard fans.  The machine sits on an IKEA lack table/enclosure, which already has rubber floor feet, so the annoying vibrations were developing between machine and table.</p>
<p>All the machine feet/legs I found on Thingiverse were using loads of material and were probably going to be too rigid.</p>
<p>So knocked-up a design with semi-flexible feet that carry 3mm thick felt pads at 40 x 40mm that I already had available (bought from any hardware or furniture store).  These feet locate onto the stock Ender rubber pads on the base and lift the machine by ~25mm.  Used PETG material for durability.</p>
<p>They look great and so far seem to work by reducing all the resonance I was previously getting - could probably benefit further from anti-vibration rubber pads.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=S+Sienoc+3D+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        S Sienoc 3D PETG                    </a>

                    Yellow
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Ender 3 V2, stock but with T8 anti-backlash nut fitted.<br>
Cura 4.7.1 (master).<br>
0,20mm resolution, 1,2mm wall thickness.<br>
15% gyroid 2D+ gradient infill and also gradual step 1, with height set at 2,5mm<br>
Print speed 35mm/s.  </p>
<p>Temperatures 82 / 236Deg (first layer 244Deg).</p>
<p>Normal supports 5% density / 65Deg for the foot rebate.  As using PETG material where the first layer can be tricky, set a 3-line skirt and fine-tuned the Z offset to -0,12.  Guess support inside the rebate also helps with bed adhesion.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<div><p>With the above settings for PETG, each foot consumes just 6m of material and a set of four took about 7hrs print time.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Fusion 360</strong></p>
                <div><p>Designed from scratch and played with previous hollow iterations using 2mm thick walls + webs and no infill, but found material use was similar to final v5 iteration with 1,2mm walls + gyroid gradient infill at 15%.</p></div>
</body></html>

Ender 3 V2 raised feet, padded for noise & resonance reduction

Looking to reduce noise and resonance from my Ender 3 V2 during printing, and also raise the machine slightly to allow for fitment of baffles/silencers on PSU and maybe later on motherboard fans.  The machine sits on an IKEA lack table/enclosure, which already has rubber floor feet, so the annoying vibrations were developing between machine and table.

All the machine feet/legs I found on Thingiverse were using loads of material and were probably going to be too rigid.

So knocked-up a design with semi-flexible feet that carry 3mm thick felt pads at 40 x 40mm that I already had available (bought from any hardware or furniture store).  These feet locate onto the stock Ender rubber pads on the base and lift the machine by ~25mm.  Used PETG material for durability.

They look great and so far seem to work by reducing all the resonance I was previously getting - could probably benefit further from anti-vibration rubber pads.



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Quite a fast print, low material usage compared to others, stock screws fit perfectly.</p>
<p>I tried multiple shapes for the fan shroud and found the one used in this design to be the most effective whilst maintaining good airflow (I managed to get a quieter design, however this made airflow nearly non-existent and produced a very annoying buzzing sound).<br>
I have also designed it to ensure that no debris from the print bed will likely enter and be sucked in. Unlike other similar models, this does not require any supports and can be printed at a vast range of resolutions without effecting structural integrity.</p>
<p>Please note - This is not as quiet as it can be, to make it quieter I would have to make it much shorter and increase the angle of the interior zig-zagging, which when installed, almost completely blocks all airflow causing a very frustrating buzzing sound from the fan, hence this design is the perfect balance between noise and airflow.</p>
<p>Any feedback is greatly appreciated</p>
<p>--Please see Print setting notes--</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.18</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>5%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=N%2FA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        N/A PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>No supports required at all, if printing on an ender 3, I highly recommend printing using the gcode directly rather than re-slicing using my STL file. This is because I have heavily modified my cura profile to perfectly balance both speed and quality. This generally takes 50 minutes to print using my gcode. </p>
<p>The interior fins are generally quite fragile so please be careful removing from the printbed, I personally recommend removing by peeling from each screw hole towards the centre simultaneously</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<div><p>Fusion360</p></div>
</body></html>

Ender 3 Noise Dampening Board Fan Cover

Quite a fast print, low material usage compared to others, stock screws fit perfectly.

I tried multiple shapes for the fan shroud and found the one used in this design to be the most effective whilst maintaining good airflow (I managed to get a quieter design, however this made airflow nearly non-existent and produced a very annoying buzzing sound). 
I have also designed it to ensure that no debris from the print bed will likely enter and be sucked in. Unlike other similar models, this does not require any supports and can be printed at a vast range of resolutions without effecting structural integrity.

Please note - This is not as quiet as it can be, to make it quieter I would have to make it much shorter and increase the angle of the interior zig-zagging, which when installed, almost completely blocks all airflow causing a very frustrating buzzing sound from the fan, hence this design is the perfect balance between noise and airflow.

Any feedback is greatly appreciated

--Please see Print setting notes--


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>just a simple rattle</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>kingroon</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=cc3d+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        cc3d PLA                    </a>

                    Black Marble
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>use a small thin tool to pop beads loose through holes</p></div>
</body></html>

noise maker rattle

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link  ">
                                            <p>Bells really need to be made of metal to &apos;ring&apos; however this easy one piece print does a surprisingly good job due to the shape, internal space and clapper movement. The fact is it resonates (rings) so has a tone. If you hold the sides instead of the top, and the sound changes. The clapper causing the bell surface to vibrate / resonate generates a note / tone so you can argue it rings and isn&apos;t a rattle... but you can be the judge by printing one for fun.</p>
<p>The clapper builds up separately from the body with its shaft expanding at the top to stop it from coming out; When printed on a precise well set up machine the clapper should be free and swing easily in all directions.</p>
<p>The walls of the bell are thin so it doesn&apos;t consume a lot of filament. However using high infill will increase the weight of the clapper and help it ring better. 2 Shells and 50% of more infill (PLA) is recommended.</p>
<p>Using a Raft is recommended as it will allow the print to be removed from the build plate gently. This will be reduce the risk of damaging the clapper as the raft can then be removed gently (and more gently than puling the print directly off the build plate with no protection for the clapper. A small waste ring has been included in the design so the raft should extend across the entire base of the bell (otherwise some raft will form under the bell and a separate section under the clapper so the raft will not achieve the desired result of gentle / easier print removal.</p>
<p>This Ringing Bell is a unique shape and includes a hanger on top. This is a fun, novelty print that can be used simply to create noise from a 3D printed thing or as a decoration at Christmas etc.</p>
<p>Please view the images and read the instructions for more information... and post images of your bells in use.</p>
<p>Note: If you like this check out the rest of my fun and practical designs.</p>
										</div>
										
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Ringing Bell

 Bells really need to be made of metal to 'ring' however this easy one piece print does a surprisingly good job due to the shape, internal space and clapper movement. The fact is it resonates (rings) so has a tone. If you hold the sides instead of the top, and the sound changes. The clapper causing the bell surface to vibrate / resonate generates a note / tone so you can argue it rings and isn't a rattle... but you can be the judge by printing one for fun. The clapper builds up separately from the body with its shaft expanding at the top to stop it from coming out; When printed on a precise well set up machine the clapper should be free and swing easily in all directions. The walls of the bell are thin so it doesn't consume a lot of filament. However using high infill will increase the weight of the clapper and help it ring better. 2 Shells and 50% of more infill (PLA) is recommended. Using a Raft is recommended as it will allow the print to be removed from the build plate gently. This will be reduce the risk of damaging the clapper as the raft can then be removed gently (and more gently than puling the print directly off the build plate with no protection for the clapper. A small waste ring has been included in the design so the raft should extend across the entire base of the bell (otherwise some raft will form under the bell and a separate section under the clapper so the raft will not achieve the desired result of gentle / easier print removal. This Ringing Bell is a unique shape and includes a hanger on top. This is a fun, novelty print that can be used simply to create noise from a 3D printed thing or as a decoration at Christmas etc. Please view the images and read the instructions for more information... and post images of your bells in use. Note: If you like this check out the rest of my fun and practical designs. 

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link  ">
                                            <p>Wolf Whistles are a small, easy and &apos;loud&apos; prints. Keep one handy all year round for sports, in case of emergencies and fun for Halloween or use them as a small low cost gift.</p>
<p>The outer chambers are a different length from the centre chamber so, when blown hard, make different pitch &apos;ear piercing&apos; sounds. Combined they make a loud dual pitch whistle... or place a finger/s over the outer or centre holes to change the pitch.</p>
<p>There are plenty of &apos;whistles on Thingiverse however the Wolf Whistle is as much about a fun way to present a whistle as it is about producing an actual &apos;wolf whistle&apos; but, with a bit of practice and experimentation with finger positions, you can achieve sounds representing a Wolf Whistle</p>
<p>There are two different Wolf Whistle stl&apos;s provided. One is for a standard whistle and the other includes a facility to place it onto a key ring.</p>
<p>For additional information please refer to the images and print setting.</p>
<p>Note: If you like this check out the rest of my fun and practical designs.</p>
										</div>
										
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Wolf Whistles... easy and fun multi pitch whistles!

 Wolf Whistles are a small, easy and 'loud' prints. Keep one handy all year round for sports, in case of emergencies and fun for Halloween or use them as a small low cost gift. The outer chambers are a different length from the centre chamber so, when blown hard, make different pitch 'ear piercing' sounds. Combined they make a loud dual pitch whistle... or place a finger/s over the outer or centre holes to change the pitch. There are plenty of 'whistles on Thingiverse however the Wolf Whistle is as much about a fun way to present a whistle as it is about producing an actual 'wolf whistle' but, with a bit of practice and experimentation with finger positions, you can achieve sounds representing a Wolf Whistle There are two different Wolf Whistle stl's provided. One is for a standard whistle and the other includes a facility to place it onto a key ring. For additional information please refer to the images and print setting. Note: If you like this check out the rest of my fun and practical designs. 

<p>Jam with a real working egg shaker in minutes. Just pause halfway printing and fill with leftover filament. Resume and shake that boogie down.<br></p><p><b>Printing advice<br></b>Print solid with no infill and place it vertically on build-plate with heavy side down. Use the settings I have shown. You will need support, but only touching build-plate. You can use the &apos;Pause at Z height&apos; plugin, or manually pause half way to fill. Fill the cup with left over filament, and resume. Note to be careful on the resuming layer. Advance the filament prior to resuming to make sure it continues with a good bond. It works well with ABS and PLA. Print any color you like even glow in the dark. See the attached pictures.</p><p><b>Thanks</b><br>I hope you like this design and I encourage you to encourage me. I am having fun creating new things and if you print this and have ideas or feedback, please click like and/or write me a comment. Thanks and may the force be with you.</p>


Egg Shaker

Jam with a real working egg shaker in minutes. Just pause halfway printing and fill with leftover filament. Resume and shake that boogie down.Printing advicePrint solid with no infill and place it vertically on build-plate with heavy side down. Use the settings I have shown. You will need support, but only touching build-plate. You can use the 'Pause at Z height' plugin, or manually pause half way to fill. Fill the cup with left over filament, and resume. Note to be careful on the resuming layer. Advance the filament prior to resuming to make sure it continues with a good bond. It works well with ABS and PLA. Print any color you like even glow in the dark. See the attached pictures.ThanksI hope you like this design and I encourage you to encourage me. I am having fun creating new things and if you print this and have ideas or feedback, please click like and/or write me a comment. Thanks and may the force be with you.


<p>Protective Isolation for Lambda Noise Filter MB 1216<br><br>Keep Mains Voltage away from your fingers ;).<br><br>Best to print in ABS oder Colorfabb XT so even if the filter gets hot, nothing is melting. Pieces were designed with some wider tolerances so they fit easily.<br><br>I printed those without support material and they came out fine.</p>


Protective Isolation for Lambda Noise Filter MB 1216

Protective Isolation for Lambda Noise Filter MB 1216Keep Mains Voltage away from your fingers ;).Best to print in ABS oder Colorfabb XT so even if the filter gets hot, nothing is melting. Pieces were designed with some wider tolerances so they fit easily.I printed those without support material and they came out fine.


<p>A little spacer for the extruder fan to help reduce the turbulence noise and to increase the air flow over the heat sink. I designed it so you can reuse the 2 screw you removed from the fan. This mod makes the air flow over the heat sink easier and it will cool the extruder better. It may also help with dual extuders, I have not tested it on dual extuders but I think it will work.<br></p><p>12-aug-14 I have added another version of the Fan Mod to help it print on the UM2 (it&apos;s a bit more solid).</p>


Ultimaker 2 extruder fan mod

A little spacer for the extruder fan to help reduce the turbulence noise and to increase the air flow over the heat sink. I designed it so you can reuse the 2 screw you removed from the fan. This mod makes the air flow over the heat sink easier and it will cool the extruder better. It may also help with dual extuders, I have not tested it on dual extuders but I think it will work.12-aug-14 I have added another version of the Fan Mod to help it print on the UM2 (it's a bit more solid).


<p>Add rubber pads and fill with soft material. (Foam rubber and felt)</p>


UM Original + UM2 soft feet

Add rubber pads and fill with soft material. (Foam rubber and felt)


<p>Printed with 75% infill. 100% probably wouldn&apos;t hurt.</p><p>Heavily inspired by &apos;gijs&apos; with his &quot;Ulti-foot&quot;: <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25950" rel="external">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25950</a><br></p><p>Designed in Autodesk Fusion 360.</p><p>Comments and tips for improvement is welcome!</p>


Noise-dampening foot with elevation for Ultimaker Original (UMO)

Printed with 75% infill. 100% probably wouldn't hurt.Heavily inspired by 'gijs' with his "Ulti-foot": http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:25950Designed in Autodesk Fusion 360.Comments and tips for improvement is welcome!


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