If you're tired of rough motion on your Ender 3, linear rails provide super-smooth motion for different axes. Read on to learn more!

Ender 3 (Pro/V2) & Linear Rails: All You Need to Know | All3DP

Bodyscape is a 3D printed fashion garment which is illuminated by the wearer's movement. It's inspired by the behavior of the human body.

Behnaz Farahi's Bodyscape Creates "Illuminated Choreography" Through Motion | All3DP

It's not all just digital animation y'know. 3D printed stop-motion animated movies are growing in popularity, too. Here are five of the best.

5 Incredible 3D Printed Stop-Motion Animated Movies | All3DP

Microsoft ceases production of its Kinect motion tracking sensor for the Xbox. Herald of a gaming future that was never to be, it lives on as an cheap and efficient scanning tool. So grab one quick.

The Kinect is Dead: Microsoft Discontinues Xbox Motion Sensor | All3DP

Capturing the frustration and the beauty of the software loading screen, Analogue Loaders is a stop motion animation made with 3D printing.

Analogue Loaders is Beautiful 3D Printed Stop Motion Short | All3DP

Lenovos "Goodweird campaign" features stop-motion animation and uses 3D printing to highlight special features of their Yoga computers.

GoodWeird Lenovo Advert Features 3D Printed Parts | All3DP

Hier ist unsere Auswahl der besten 3D-Animationsprogramme 2020 für 2D-/3D-Animation und Stop-Motion. Einige davon sind kostenlos!

3D-Animation-Software: Die besten Programme | All3DP

3D printing is beginning to having a huge impact on animated film. Learn about the workflow of a 3D printed stop motion movie project.

3D Printed Stop Motion: How To Create the Perfect Faceset | All3DP

Are you feeling Christmassy yet? 3D printing will help get you in a festive mood thanks to a brilliant stop-motion advert.

Get in a Festive Mood with this Stop-Motion Film | All3DP

Debuting at the 2018 Midwest RepRap Festival this weekend is a tool changing 3D printer from British company E3D. This is a multi-material FFF machine that's quick, nimble, and very very clever.

Radical Tool Changing 3D Printer with Motion System from E3D | All3DP

Laika have won a technical award from the Oscars on February 13th for pioneering 3D printing technology in stop-motion animation.

Laika Receives Academy Reward for Use of 3D Printing | All3DP

Promising a VR future with peripheral vision and no motion sickness, proven Kickstarter campaigner Pimax is set to trounce its $200,000 goal.

Pimax 8K VR Headset Kickstarter Projected to Pass $3.5-Million | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Those of us who have DOFReality motion simulator rigs know how important it is to keep the motion motors from overheating. But how do you know what is hot?  Some folks have pointed to these temp sensor modules: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1RDJOI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1RDJOI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a></p>
<p>But you need a case to put them into your rig. That&apos;s where this comes in. Holds 3 sensors (If you have an H6/P6, print 2 of them!). Modules are a tight fit but if you push the wires back you should be able to snap them into place. Route the wires out the hole in the back plate. Fasten the rear plate using M3x8 button head screws. (I didn&apos;t even need to tap the holes, the screws just went right in). Mount to the rig using good sticky back velcro, or drill a hole through the back plate and mount it to your frame. The sensor wires are pretty short so you might need to mount the box low on the frame (I use the bottom of the right wheel upright..)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Inland+%28Microcenter%29+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Inland (Microcenter) PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Print face down with supports.</p></div>
</body></html>

DOF Reality Motion Rig motor sensor temp panel

Those of us who have DOFReality motion simulator rigs know how important it is to keep the motion motors from overheating. But how do you know what is hot?  Some folks have pointed to these temp sensor modules: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H1RDJOI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But you need a case to put them into your rig. That's where this comes in. Holds 3 sensors (If you have an H6/P6, print 2 of them!). Modules are a tight fit but if you push the wires back you should be able to snap them into place. Route the wires out the hole in the back plate. Fasten the rear plate using M3x8 button head screws. (I didn't even need to tap the holes, the screws just went right in). Mount to the rig using good sticky back velcro, or drill a hole through the back plate and mount it to your frame. The sensor wires are pretty short so you might need to mount the box low on the frame (I use the bottom of the right wheel upright..)


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>A while ago I made:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3375167">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3375167</a><br>
(remix search isn&apos;t working so I can&apos;t add it there right now)<br>
as I&apos;ve worked with it I found my nema17s to be a little underpowered and would occasionally drop steps. I decided to upgrade the pan and tilt to use helical gears and nema23s with the associated larger mounts.<br>
all other parts as original thing.<br>
See the upgrades in motion:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CGp8lXtAt9M/">https://www.instagram.com/p/CGp8lXtAt9M/</a></p>
<p>couldn&apos;t get the gif down to under 500kb to upload here<br>
I&apos;ve also included the &apos;zoom mount&apos; bracket that I use to mount a nema17 on a right angle bracket to provide a belt drive for the zoom ring on my lens</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">i3 MK3</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Prusament+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Prusament PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I tend to go for cubic rectilinear infil for better strength, though it&apos;s really not an issue in this design</p></div>
</body></html>

Camera Gimbal Upgrades

A while ago I made:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3375167
(remix search isn't working so I can't add it there right now)
as I've worked with it I found my nema17s to be a little underpowered and would occasionally drop steps. I decided to upgrade the pan and tilt to use helical gears and nema23s with the associated larger mounts.
all other parts as original thing.
See the upgrades in motion:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CGp8lXtAt9M/

couldn't get the gif down to under 500kb to upload here
I've also included the 'zoom mount' bracket that I use to mount a nema17 on a right angle bracket to provide a belt drive for the zoom ring on my lens

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Simple x or y axiss linear carriage for saw table or camera usage or etc..<br>
For carriage uses   22mm outer diameter LM12UU linear bearing  (2 ea for each carriage).<br>
Rod holder inner diameter 12mm.</p>
<p>For Cura setting:<br>
do not forget to correct hole diameter to set your slicer program setting which is &quot; Hole Horizantal Expansion &quot;   : 0.2 for (0.4 nozzle). !!!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=CCTREE+PETG+or+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        CCTREE PETG or PLA                    </a>

                    
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>You know best your flament charesterics , but I use ,for strong shell , min 1.2 wall thickness with 3 wall line ,%30 fill parameters.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/00/61/2a/a8/69/IMG_20201029_180307.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/b5/a7/fb/6d/fb/IMG_20201029_180249.jpg"></p>
</body></html>

12mm Rod Linear Carriage 

Simple x or y axiss linear carriage for saw table or camera usage or etc..
For carriage uses   22mm outer diameter LM12UU linear bearing  (2 ea for each carriage).
Rod holder inner diameter 12mm.


For Cura setting:
do not forget to correct hole diameter to set your slicer program setting which is " Hole Horizantal Expansion "   : 0.2 for (0.4 nozzle). !!!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>chain slider for electric chain hoist(500kg)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>anycubic chiron</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+pla&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex pla                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

chain hoist slider (cable slider)

chain slider for electric chain hoist(500kg)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a 6 axis cnc motion controlled camera system I designed. I built this to help film stuff for my new YouTube channel. &quot;doitwhenever?&quot;   check it out!  I have a few videos up on how this rig works</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7Ez4rovbLJWq_LXZADjVXw/">https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7Ez4rovbLJWq_LXZADjVXw/</a></p>
<p>I&apos;ll be posting more info soon!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>custom made water cooled printer</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15 - .2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10-100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Inland+TPU+-+NYLON+-+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Inland TPU - NYLON - PLA                    </a>

                    Black - BLUE - RED
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I mostly print with inland filament as I have a microcenter right by my house. This rig is printed with mostly PLA but I did print a few parts with nylon and tpu. The nylon is part of the bearing surface. The TPU is a pad that the camera sits on.  </p></div>
</body></html>

CNC 6-axis Motion controlled Camera platform

This is a 6 axis cnc motion controlled camera system I designed. I built this to help film stuff for my new YouTube channel. "doitwhenever?"   check it out!  I have a few videos up on how this rig works


https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC7Ez4rovbLJWq_LXZADjVXw/

I'll be posting more info soon!

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link  ">
                                            <p>Googly eyes have the power to give life to inanimate objects in the most simple and satisfying way. These googly eyes were redesigned from the ground up for 3D printing. Just print the parts and pop the pupil into place, no supports required!</p>
<p>This Super Pack has a bunch of variations. I did my best to organize them by file names, so make sure to sort by name, and maybe separate into folders.</p>
<p><strong>Download&#xA0;Includes :&#xA0;</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>1&quot; Round Eyes
<ul>
<li>Short Lashes&#xA0;</li>
<li>Long Lashes&#xA0;</li>
<li>No Lashes</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>1&quot; Straight Eyes<br>
<ul>
<li>Short Lashes</li>
<li>Long Lashes</li>
<li>No Lashes</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>1&quot;&#xA0;Curved Eyes<br>
<ul>
<li>Short Lashes</li>
<li>Long Lashes</li>
<li>No Lashes</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>1&quot;&#xA0;Blink (Closed Eyes, Short Lashes)<br><br></li>
<li>1.5&quot; Round Eyes
<ul>
<li>Short Lashes</li>
<li>No Lashes</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Hooman Eyes
<ul>
<li>Single Color Pupil (Pupil.stl)</li>
<li>3 Color&#xA0;Iris&#xA0;<a href="https://youtu.be/D7FiT5VqLSg" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Multipass Printing</a> (Multi_...stl - in order)</li>
<li>Short Lashes</li>
<li>No Lashes</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p><em>+ Bonus 7 Mouths and Triangle Nose</em></p>
<p>&#xA0;</p>
<p><strong>// Tips //</strong></p>
<p>&#x27B2; In general,&#xA0;Print solid and you should be good! If the pin of the pupil is curling up, you can try printing at a lower temperature, increasing cooling, increasing minimum layer time, lowering layer height.</p>
<p>&#x27B2; To prevent the small tabs from breaking, it helps to apply even pressure from both sides when snapping together the parts (pinch between thumb and forefinger)</p>
<p>&#x27B2; For the &apos;<em>No&#xA0;Lashes</em>&apos; variation print the corresponding &apos;_back.stl&apos; file instead of one of the &apos;Lashes&apos; files. You can also print neither and leave the back exposed</p>
<p>&#x27B2; With the Multipass Single Extruder Multicolor pupil, the first color is the pupil. The second color is the Outer Iris. It needs at least .5mm vertical z-hop when traveling to avoid hitting the first color and should be printed in a somewhat transparent filament. The third color is the Inner Iris. It needs 1.1mm z-hop to avoid the second color. Lower layer height = smoother gradient (I used 0.06mm). This technique may take time to perfect. Visit <a href="https://youtu.be/D7FiT5VqLSg" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">this video</a> for more info</p>
<p>&#x27B2; You can also just use a multicolor printer for the 3 color Iris</p>
<p>&#x27B2; If the vertical pin on the pupil print is curling up, it may become too loose to stay in place. You can attempt to remedy this by smushing the top of the pin down with a hot knife/end of a lighter, or similar.</p>
<p><strong>For sticking Googly eyes to things :</strong> <br>- temporary &#x21E2; UHU Putty : <a href="http://bit.ly/uHuHu" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Amazon Link</a><br>- less temporary &#x21E2; XFasten Double Sided Tape : <a href="http://bit.ly/DblStick" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Amazon Link</a><br>-&#xA0;invincible &#x21E2; E6000 Adhesive : <a href="http://bit.ly/E6000craft" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">Amazon Link</a></p>
<p>&#xA0;</p>
										</div>
										
                                    								</body></html>

Googly Eye Super Pack

 Googly eyes have the power to give life to inanimate objects in the most simple and satisfying way. These googly eyes were redesigned from the ground up for 3D printing. Just print the parts and pop the pupil into place, no supports required! This Super Pack has a bunch of variations. I did my best to organize them by file names, so make sure to sort by name, and maybe separate into folders. Download Includes : 1" Round Eyes Short Lashes Long Lashes No Lashes 1" Straight Eyes Short Lashes Long Lashes No Lashes 1" Curved Eyes Short Lashes Long Lashes No Lashes 1" Blink (Closed Eyes, Short Lashes) 1.5" Round Eyes Short Lashes No Lashes Hooman Eyes Single Color Pupil (Pupil.stl) 3 Color Iris Multipass Printing (Multi_...stl - in order) Short Lashes No Lashes + Bonus 7 Mouths and Triangle Nose // Tips // ➲ In general, Print solid and you should be good! If the pin of the pupil is curling up, you can try printing at a lower temperature, increasing cooling, increasing minimum layer time, lowering layer height. ➲ To prevent the small tabs from breaking, it helps to apply even pressure from both sides when snapping together the parts (pinch between thumb and forefinger) ➲ For the 'No Lashes' variation print the corresponding '_back.stl' file instead of one of the 'Lashes' files. You can also print neither and leave the back exposed ➲ With the Multipass Single Extruder Multicolor pupil, the first color is the pupil. The second color is the Outer Iris. It needs at least .5mm vertical z-hop when traveling to avoid hitting the first color and should be printed in a somewhat transparent filament. The third color is the Inner Iris. It needs 1.1mm z-hop to avoid the second color. Lower layer height = smoother gradient (I used 0.06mm). This technique may take time to perfect. Visit this video for more info ➲ You can also just use a multicolor printer for the 3 color Iris ➲ If the vertical pin on the pupil print is curling up, it may become too loose to stay in place. You can attempt to remedy this by smushing the top of the pin down with a hot knife/end of a lighter, or similar. For sticking Googly eyes to things : - temporary ⇢ UHU Putty : Amazon Link- less temporary ⇢ XFasten Double Sided Tape : Amazon Link- invincible ⇢ E6000 Adhesive : Amazon Link 

<p>The key to these being effective, is for them to be identical in length. I prefer to print one at a time, back to back, with identical settings for temp, flow, fan, speed, etc. The part tapers at the top and bottom to make sure that the contact areas are mid-print when things have settled down. I think that 0.2mm layers works well and 30% infill was enough for me. Print with a filament that extrudes well in your machine, and go fairly slow for accuracy.</p><p><br></p><p>I added a small flat in the &quot;V&quot; end to allow measuring the length of the arm with calipers. I also usually take a utility blade to each end scraping (not cutting) lightly across the contact surfaces to knock down any outlier layers and bring them more inline with each other. You want very repeatable, even layers for this part to be of help. My arms&#xA0;measure within 0.02mm of one another,&#xA0;in&#xA0;length.</p><p><br></p><p>You can make things much easier on yourself, if with these arms in place, you loosen your belt tension and align the set screw(s) on the pulleys of the axis you are working on, so that they are easily accessible.</p><p><br></p><p>Useage:</p><p><br></p><p><iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/MW00Fkfigac" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe><br></p><p><br></p><p>Snap these onto either side of a 6mm shaft, at the very ends, near the XY blocks.</p><p>Align the other ends with the 8mm shaft. Pull at each end of the 6mm shaft until the alignment arms contact the 8mm shaft and center against it.</p><p>Then use the associated stepper (by hand) to back the rod away, then make light contact again.</p><p>While holding light torque on that stepper (or the shaft it drives), wiggle each arm up and down. Ideally, both should be tight. If one wiggles, that is the one in need of adjustment.</p><p>Loosen both pulleys that connect to the belt holding that particular XY block.</p><p>While pulling that XY block towards the calibration arm (loading it against the 8mm shaft), tighten the pulleys.</p><p>Repeat the first test and tweak until both arms are snug.</p>


Ultimaker XY Axis Square

The key to these being effective, is for them to be identical in length. I prefer to print one at a time, back to back, with identical settings for temp, flow, fan, speed, etc. The part tapers at the top and bottom to make sure that the contact areas are mid-print when things have settled down. I think that 0.2mm layers works well and 30% infill was enough for me. Print with a filament that extrudes well in your machine, and go fairly slow for accuracy.I added a small flat in the "V" end to allow measuring the length of the arm with calipers. I also usually take a utility blade to each end scraping (not cutting) lightly across the contact surfaces to knock down any outlier layers and bring them more inline with each other. You want very repeatable, even layers for this part to be of help. My arms measure within 0.02mm of one another, in length.You can make things much easier on yourself, if with these arms in place, you loosen your belt tension and align the set screw(s) on the pulleys of the axis you are working on, so that they are easily accessible.Useage:Snap these onto either side of a 6mm shaft, at the very ends, near the XY blocks.Align the other ends with the 8mm shaft. Pull at each end of the 6mm shaft until the alignment arms contact the 8mm shaft and center against it.Then use the associated stepper (by hand) to back the rod away, then make light contact again.While holding light torque on that stepper (or the shaft it drives), wiggle each arm up and down. Ideally, both should be tight. If one wiggles, that is the one in need of adjustment.Loosen both pulleys that connect to the belt holding that particular XY block.While pulling that XY block towards the calibration arm (loading it against the 8mm shaft), tighten the pulleys.Repeat the first test and tweak until both arms are snug.


<p>This flying saucer was designed for use in stop motion.  The canopy opens, and the bottom section spins to give it that authentic UFO look.  Around the perimeter there are five ports.  The details in these ports are designed to be stuck in place with blue-tack or other similar non-permanent adhesive.  These can be removed so reveal a socket designed to take a dowel or end of a paint brush or something so the model can be supported when photographed &quot;flying&quot;.  </p>

<p>The project is described in more detail on my website together with links to other pages that go into the paint selection used and how I formed the dome. You can find this page here: <a href="http://www.techmonkeybusiness.com/a-3d-printed-flying-saucer.html" rel="external">http://www.techmonkeybusiness.com/a-3d-printed-flying-saucer.html</a></p>

<p>There are no special requirements for printing it.  The hardest part is finding a dome and so I would suggest you find something to use for the dome and then scale the model to suit.</p>


Flying Saucer for Stop Motion

This flying saucer was designed for use in stop motion.  The canopy opens, and the bottom section spins to give it that authentic UFO look.  Around the perimeter there are five ports.  The details in these ports are designed to be stuck in place with blue-tack or other similar non-permanent adhesive.  These can be removed so reveal a socket designed to take a dowel or end of a paint brush or something so the model can be supported when photographed "flying".  

The project is described in more detail on my website together with links to other pages that go into the paint selection used and how I formed the dome. You can find this page here: http://www.techmonkeybusiness.com/a-3d-printed-flying-saucer.html

There are no special requirements for printing it.  The hardest part is finding a dome and so I would suggest you find something to use for the dome and then scale the model to suit.


<p>This part was first designed by Mr. Mohammad Ali from the physics department at CSU East Bay, California. Teachers have often had difficulty attaching motion sensors to air tracks - and this part is a great solution!</p>


Air Track Motion Sensor Bracket

This part was first designed by Mr. Mohammad Ali from the physics department at CSU East Bay, California. Teachers have often had difficulty attaching motion sensors to air tracks - and this part is a great solution!


<p>Think <em>Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom</em>, <em>Hoodwinked</em>, and maybe some <em>spy vs spy</em> and you have an idea of what I have in mind for this model.  When I look at some of the pictures of mine trolleys on the web, this looks nothing like them, but that&apos;s OK.</p>

<p>The overall dimensions are 65mm wide x 70mm tall x 140mm long.  The track gauge is about 38mm.  The wheels have reasonably wide flanges and so can ride on rails up to about 40mm between rail centrelines.</p>

<p>The box on top was made from iceblock sticks stuck together with PVA glue.  There is nothing special about this.  The iceblock sticks were painted with a sepia coloured brown acrylic house paint without undercoat.  This allowed the paint to penetrate the wood nicely and give an aged stained look.  I have not included an STL for this part seeing as it is so simple to construct anyway.</p>

<p>Things you will need in addition to the printed bits;</p>

<ul>
<li> 3 x 4mm rods of some sort for the axles.  These are cut to 55mm long.  I used dowel.</li>
<li> Popsicle sticks.  The dimensions for the &#x201C;planks&#x201D; are provided here as a suggestion and are based on the standard popsicle stick size available here which are 10mm wide x 2mm thick x 113mm long.

<ul>
<li> 13 x 100mm long planks</li>
<li> 10 x 40mm planks</li>
<li> 8 x 50mm planks</li>
<li> 2 x 58mm planks</li>
<li> 4 x 15mm planks</li>
</ul></li>
<li> Small screw to hold on the control lever if you are using it.</li>
<li> 1.5mm rod for the control lever</li>
<li> Some electrical tape or duct tape to made the handle on the control lever.</li>
<li> Glue.  I use an epoxy glue, buy anything without too much flexibility will work.</li>
</ul>

<p>The original <em>blender</em> digital model is provided along with an <em>obj</em> of the assembled mine trolley.  The <em>pdf</em> contains assembly instructions.  </p>

<p>When you print this you will end up with a handful of small components.  Some assembly is required!</p>


Mine Trolley for Stop Motion

Think Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom, Hoodwinked, and maybe some spy vs spy and you have an idea of what I have in mind for this model.  When I look at some of the pictures of mine trolleys on the web, this looks nothing like them, but that's OK.

The overall dimensions are 65mm wide x 70mm tall x 140mm long.  The track gauge is about 38mm.  The wheels have reasonably wide flanges and so can ride on rails up to about 40mm between rail centrelines.

The box on top was made from iceblock sticks stuck together with PVA glue.  There is nothing special about this.  The iceblock sticks were painted with a sepia coloured brown acrylic house paint without undercoat.  This allowed the paint to penetrate the wood nicely and give an aged stained look.  I have not included an STL for this part seeing as it is so simple to construct anyway.

Things you will need in addition to the printed bits;


 3 x 4mm rods of some sort for the axles.  These are cut to 55mm long.  I used dowel.
 Popsicle sticks.  The dimensions for the “planks” are provided here as a suggestion and are based on the standard popsicle stick size available here which are 10mm wide x 2mm thick x 113mm long.


 13 x 100mm long planks
 10 x 40mm planks
 8 x 50mm planks
 2 x 58mm planks
 4 x 15mm planks

 Small screw to hold on the control lever if you are using it.
 1.5mm rod for the control lever
 Some electrical tape or duct tape to made the handle on the control lever.
 Glue.  I use an epoxy glue, buy anything without too much flexibility will work.


The original blender digital model is provided along with an obj of the assembled mine trolley.  The pdf contains assembly instructions.  

When you print this you will end up with a handful of small components.  Some assembly is required!


<p>These gears are half of the entire perpetual motion machine.  The machine itself is described in the youtube video here:<br>
<iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/jgAnponHWgU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>

<p>The whole concept is that I was trying to make a perpetually off-balance machine by making the movement of the weight occur in an entirely seperate plane than the rotating wheels.  Since everything rotates at 1:1, I thought that it would maintain balance except for the weight.</p>

<p>In addition to the STL files, you will need to print out three of the following gears at 2x the scale:<br>
<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:149544/#files" rel="external">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:149544/#files</a></p>

<p>As you can see in the video, I had to modify one of the gears (cut out the center and drill holes in it) to mount it to the frame.  </p>

<p>Bearings help keep it running smooth.  The frame could be made out of anything.  I used plastic that I cut with my router, but wood may be much easier to use.  Threaded rod from the hardware store is used as the shaft of the axles.  Aluminum tubes on the threaded rod keep the gears in the center of the threaded rods.  Make sure the large gear in the very center does not move. </p>

<p>The complicated part is getting the 3mm shaft inside the bearings and in place.  The weight (bolt and nut) rotate on that shaft.</p>

<p>I hope that posting the STL files that I have made, somebody may improve on them or the design in general.  Have fun!</p>


Perpetual Motion Machine

These gears are half of the entire perpetual motion machine.  The machine itself is described in the youtube video here:


The whole concept is that I was trying to make a perpetually off-balance machine by making the movement of the weight occur in an entirely seperate plane than the rotating wheels.  Since everything rotates at 1:1, I thought that it would maintain balance except for the weight.

In addition to the STL files, you will need to print out three of the following gears at 2x the scale:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:149544/#files

As you can see in the video, I had to modify one of the gears (cut out the center and drill holes in it) to mount it to the frame.  

Bearings help keep it running smooth.  The frame could be made out of anything.  I used plastic that I cut with my router, but wood may be much easier to use.  Threaded rod from the hardware store is used as the shaft of the axles.  Aluminum tubes on the threaded rod keep the gears in the center of the threaded rods.  Make sure the large gear in the very center does not move. 

The complicated part is getting the 3mm shaft inside the bearings and in place.  The weight (bolt and nut) rotate on that shaft.

I hope that posting the STL files that I have made, somebody may improve on them or the design in general.  Have fun!


<p>I printed only the first prototype, with 0.4 mm nozzle. <br>
I want to improve it even better, but so far it seems to be working: <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_0IWUrQp9Yzakc5cVQ5LXlkQ3c/view?usp=sharing" rel="external">https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_0IWUrQp9Yzakc5cVQ5LXlkQ3c/view?usp=sharing</a></p>


Spine Fender Front Right NEW

I printed only the first prototype, with 0.4 mm nozzle. 
I want to improve it even better, but so far it seems to be working: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_0IWUrQp9Yzakc5cVQ5LXlkQ3c/view?usp=sharing


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