This modular 3D printer kit from Fischertechnik is beginner-friendly, includes great components and a whopping 890 parts for you to build.

Modular 3D Printer Kit from Fischertechnik | All3DP

Want to build chemistry with your 3D printer? Learn how to design and 3D print your own modular molecule lamp with this scientific and terrific 3D printing project.

[Project] 3D Printed Modular Molecule Lamp | All3DP

Materialise celebrates the future of 3D printing with their small modular toy, on display at Prototyping 2017, in Kortrijk, Beligum.

Materialise Presents 3D Printed Modular Toy Robot | All3DP

Researchers from University of California, Riverside developed a 3D printed LEGO style modular system for chemistry and biology instruments.

3D Printed LEGO System for Chemistry & Biology Labs | All3DP

Want to see a 3D printed robot scorpion? This modular hexapod from Ghent University is sure to grab your attention.

This 3D Printed Robot Scorpion WILL Stab You | All3DP

Google's Project Ara and UK start-up OwnFone are already experimenting with 3D printed mobile phones. Will we love them?

Tomorrow's Phone Will Be Modular and 3D Printed | All3DP

Nex Band wants you to hack their 3D printed wearable. If you can dream it, Nex can probably do it.

Modular Nex Band Wearable Does Anything You Want | All3DP

Exclusive interview with Alex Youden, an ambitious young engineer from the UK who's launched the NFire 1 modular 3D printer on Kickstarter.

19 Year Old Engineer Launches NFire 1 Modular 3D Printer | All3DP

3D printing is allowing photographers to build their own cameras in a LEGO like style using Cambits - a new modular imaging system.

Build Your Own Camera Using 3D Printed Blocks | All3DP

Intended for "search & rescue" missions and sporting a 3D printed body and an Arduino heart, modular robot Dtto wins the Hackaday Prize 2016.

Dtto is a 3D Printed, Self-Configurable Modular Robot | All3DP

The CEL CEO speaks exclusively to ALL3DP about the evolution of the Robox 3D printer, including plans for a print-it-yourself stylus cutter.

The Future is Modular: Chris Elsworthy Shares Robox Roadmap | All3DP

Excited about CES 2016 in Las Vegas? Lenovo have announced a modular Thinkpad tablet with a 3D scanning module to digitally capture physical objects.

Lenovo announces Modular Thinkpad X1 Tablet with 3D Scanning Module | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Welcome to the newest addition to the Moonbeam Mounting System!</p>
<p>This is a 3&quot; Cannon/Potato Cannon/Air Cannon/Golfball Cannon mount to be used with other parts of the Moonbeam Mounting System Collection! (See Links) </p>
<p>This design alongside the rest of the MMS series is designed to make your cannon mounting modular! Use this for easy servicing, alteration, or transfer of your cannon! From changing your design to moving your cannon to a different platform entirely, this is perfect for the spirit and functionality of modularity in your cannon needs!</p>
<p>You will need:</p>
<ul><li>1/4&quot; x .5&quot; bolts (x4)</li>
<li>A Cannon</li>
<li>Common Sense</li>
<li>A will to live</li>
<li>Some of the other MMS parts (See Links) to mount the cannon</li>
</ul><p>Simply make a frame for your cannon, whether that be a spring recoil dampener or simply a sold mount. You will have plenty of female MMS adapters to choose from in the MMS collection, so be sure to pick one and plan out your design before picking an adapter. Mount the cannon with the holder to your frame and lock into place using the quick release pins on my profile, one of your own pin designs or even 1/8&quot; bolts!</p>
<p>LINKS:</p>
<p>Moonbeam Mounting System Collection:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/HellforgeActual/collections/moonbeam-mounting-system">https://www.thingiverse.com/HellforgeActual/collections/moonbeam-mounting-system</a></p>
<p>Complete Collection of MMS Adapters:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4030024">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4030024</a></p>
<p>You can also use other Thingiverse users picatinny designs should you find my collection inadequate. </p>
<p>MMS Details:</p>
<p>Moonbeam Mounting System is part of Project Moonbeam, a social engineering undertaking to attempt to normalize the picatinny rail, typically only used on firearms, into everyday life. You can find a lot of the MMS modules on my Thingiverse Profile!</p>
<p>Who am I?<br>
I am a defensive munitions engineer beginning to explore small arms technology and accessories. I plan to redefine the firearms and weapons industry with my very creations, this being one of them. I am undertaking this with my company Hellforge Weapons Engineering &amp; Defensive Squadron (or the alias Hellforge Command, as its shorter). We are pioneering additive manufacturing for the future of production by attempting its utilization in the firearms and defense industry.</p>
<p>I hope you enjoy!</p>
<p>-=|Incipiens Ad Finem|=-</p>
<p>...<br>
Post your makes you lazy asses<br>
...</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.1 - 0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>35% - 75%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=No+scrub+companies+are+to+be+used+with+my+designs.++PLA%2C+PETG%2C+Nylon%2C+ABS%2C+Resin&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        No scrub companies are to be used with my designs.  PLA, PETG, Nylon, ABS, Resin                    </a>

                    Im a huge fan of Desert Khaki
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>If you&apos;ve printed over 2 things in your life, you can handle this just fine. </p></div>
</body></html>

MMS Potato Cannon Modular Mount (3" Chamber)

Welcome to the newest addition to the Moonbeam Mounting System!

This is a 3" Cannon/Potato Cannon/Air Cannon/Golfball Cannon mount to be used with other parts of the Moonbeam Mounting System Collection! (See Links) 

This design alongside the rest of the MMS series is designed to make your cannon mounting modular! Use this for easy servicing, alteration, or transfer of your cannon! From changing your design to moving your cannon to a different platform entirely, this is perfect for the spirit and functionality of modularity in your cannon needs!

You will need:
- 1/4" x .5" bolts (x4)
- A Cannon
- Common Sense
- A will to live
- Some of the other MMS parts (See Links) to mount the cannon

Simply make a frame for your cannon, whether that be a spring recoil dampener or simply a sold mount. You will have plenty of female MMS adapters to choose from in the MMS collection, so be sure to pick one and plan out your design before picking an adapter. Mount the cannon with the holder to your frame and lock into place using the quick release pins on my profile, one of your own pin designs or even 1/8" bolts!

LINKS:

Moonbeam Mounting System Collection:
https://www.thingiverse.com/HellforgeActual/collections/moonbeam-mounting-system

Complete Collection of MMS Adapters:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4030024

You can also use other Thingiverse users picatinny designs should you find my collection inadequate. 

MMS Details:

Moonbeam Mounting System is part of Project Moonbeam, a social engineering undertaking to attempt to normalize the picatinny rail, typically only used on firearms, into everyday life. You can find a lot of the MMS modules on my Thingiverse Profile!

Who am I?
I am a defensive munitions engineer beginning to explore small arms technology and accessories. I plan to redefine the firearms and weapons industry with my very creations, this being one of them. I am undertaking this with my company Hellforge Weapons Engineering & Defensive Squadron (or the alias Hellforge Command, as its shorter). We are pioneering additive manufacturing for the future of production by attempting its utilization in the firearms and defense industry.

I hope you enjoy!

-=|Incipiens Ad Finem|=-

...
Post your makes you lazy asses
...

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a model of an adaptable 10HP Eurorack faceplate to fit an Akso synthesizer board into your Eurorack.</p>
<p>The grid of holes are each 3.1mm so you can push in 3mm LEDs or drill them out easily to 7mm to fit 6mm potentiometer threads. You can configure your control panel however you like with nothing more than a drill &#x2014; don&apos;t even need to change the model!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Hatchbox+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Hatchbox PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Because it&apos;s so flat and the overhangs are shallow, you shouldn&apos;t need to do anything fancy. You can even use a .3mm layer height to print it in about 1:15.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Print face-down for a smooth surface.</strong></p>
                <div><p>Or, if you wanna be weird, I guess print face up so you get the full printed texture. I&apos;m not your mom.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Thanks to moon</strong></p>
                <div><p>On the Akso forum, moon dropped down a simple 3HP Eurorack faceplate as soon as their Akso showed up in the mail. I wanted to add controls and indicators to it, though, so I figured this was a great opportunity to start using Fusion 360!</p>
<p>The original thread: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://forum.zrna.org/t/akso-as-a-eurorack-module/180">https://forum.zrna.org/t/akso-as-a-eurorack-module/180</a></p>
<p>In addition to adding the grid of holes, I made some subtle changes to the positions of the holes to compensate for variations in Akso boards and added a headphone icon to the amplified audio out jack.</p>
<p>Credit for FIRST POST goes to Tim, though, with their 2HP, super sleek design and benchtop case! <a rel="nofollow" href="https://forum.zrna.org/t/akso-benchtop-case-and-2hp-eurorack-faceplate/188">https://forum.zrna.org/t/akso-benchtop-case-and-2hp-eurorack-faceplate/188</a> </p></div>
</body></html>

Eurorack Panel for the Akso Modular Synth Board

This is a model of an adaptable 10HP Eurorack faceplate to fit an Akso synthesizer board into your Eurorack.

The grid of holes are each 3.1mm so you can push in 3mm LEDs or drill them out easily to 7mm to fit 6mm potentiometer threads. You can configure your control panel however you like with nothing more than a drill — don't even need to change the model!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>A modular stackable wire spool organizer. Two sizes of spools available: 50mm and 80mm.</p>
<p>Project link: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.creativesolutions.pt/3d-printing-modular-wire-spool-organizer/">https://www.creativesolutions.pt/3d-printing-modular-wire-spool-organizer/</a></p>
<p>Resources: </p>
<ul><li>Good 18-28 awg wire (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AZ5eG1">https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AZ5eG1</a>)</li>
<li>Best PLA filament for 3D printer (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A7zGE5">https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A7zGE5</a> )</li>
</ul><p>Support my future projects:<br>
Paypal: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&amp;hosted_button_id=84DLVFF7AZ5YY">https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&amp;hosted_button_id=84DLVFF7AZ5YY</a><br>
Bitcoin: 37NiULKCWUynvdUyBEmkBbQp7XU5ZRToEa</p>
<p>Credits:<br>
Created by Rui Gaspar</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=BQ+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        BQ PLA                    </a>

                    Red
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom custom-section">Custom Section</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/0zx5VQotOZ0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
</body></html>

Modular Wire Spool Organizer

A modular stackable wire spool organizer. Two sizes of spools available: 50mm and 80mm.

Project link: https://www.creativesolutions.pt/3d-printing-modular-wire-spool-organizer/

Resources: 
- Good 18-28 awg wire (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AZ5eG1)
- Best PLA filament for 3D printer (https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A7zGE5 )


Support my future projects:
Paypal: https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=84DLVFF7AZ5YY
Bitcoin: 37NiULKCWUynvdUyBEmkBbQp7XU5ZRToEa

Credits:
Created by Rui Gaspar

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>A replacement mount for the Neonate BC-8000DV baby monitor.</h3>
<p>It can be mounted onto whatever you like, as long as you can get the screw/bolt through the hole in the base.</p>
<h3>Why make your own?</h3>
<p>The original one broke in a weak thin place multiple times, and no matter how I glued it together it kept snapping in the same place.</p>
<p>I therefore designed this part to snap onto the baby-monitor instead, and since it can be mounted with the Modular Mounting System, it gave me more freedom of placement.</p>
<h3>Recommendations:</h3>
<ul><li>Neonate original clip adapter - to use the Modular Mounting System between the clip and this mount: <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4574442">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4574442</a></li>
<li>To mount it with the Modular Mounting System you can use the Camera Mount.</li>
<li>To mount it with another system/onto whatever you like, just screw/bolt it in place ;-)</li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0,2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Spectrum+PLA+Pro&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Spectrum PLA Pro                    </a>

                    Black
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<div><p>Mount the mount with a screw/bolt - you can mount it onto whatever you like.</p></div>
</body></html>

Neonate BC-8000DV Mount (universal mounting)

# A replacement mount for the Neonate BC-8000DV baby monitor.

It can be mounted onto whatever you like, as long as you can get the screw/bolt through the hole in the base.

### Why make your own?
The original one broke in a weak thin place multiple times, and no matter how I glued it together it kept snapping in the same place.

I therefore designed this part to snap onto the baby-monitor instead, and since it can be mounted with the Modular Mounting System, it gave me more freedom of placement.

### Recommendations:
- Neonate original clip adapter - to use the Modular Mounting System between the clip and this mount: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4574442
- To mount it with the Modular Mounting System you can use the Camera Mount.
- To mount it with another system/onto whatever you like, just screw/bolt it in place ;-)



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Sample preview of our new Kickstarter Dominus terrain  Live on Kickstarter</p>
<p>Modular terrain of the ruined cathedral 28mm scale.<br>
Use for more types of Wargaming or RPG tabletop games.<br>
Without glue without magnets.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Filamentum+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Filamentum PLA                    </a>

                    Rapunzel Silver
</body></html>

Cathedral modular terrain Lite

Sample preview of our new Kickstarter Dominus terrain  Live on Kickstarter

Modular terrain of the ruined cathedral 28mm scale.
Use for more types of Wargaming or RPG tabletop games.
Without glue without magnets.





<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>OpenFormicaria</h3>
<p>A Open Source modular ant formicarium and home with simple space saving connectors.</p>
<p><strong>Documentation:</strong> <a rel="nofollow" href="https://of.schemen.me"></a><a rel="nofollow" href="https://of.schemen.me">https://of.schemen.me</a></p>
<p><strong>How to Contribute:</strong> <a rel="nofollow" href="https://of.schemen.me/contrib/"></a><a rel="nofollow" href="https://of.schemen.me/contrib/">https://of.schemen.me/contrib/</a></p>
<h3>Features overview</h3>
<p>OpenFormicaria is a set of parts that interconnect expand upon another. Any part is compatible with any other part ranging from the small Portal where you can found your colony after the test tube up to interconnecting many formicaria.</p>
<p>All modules are based on a 35mmx35mm base grid for ability to interconnect all of them (At least connector facing parts). 4xGateway is 35x35mm, 6xGateway is 35x70mm. All of the modules are 20mm high.</p>
<ul><li>A variety of connectors to connect modules, formicaria, tubes etc.</li>
<li>Connectors can be exchanged safely while the part is in use to prevent ant escapees.</li>
<li>Different sizes of formicaria for different colony sizes</li>
<li>Different formicaria insert styles for different ant races</li>
<li>Easy way to create your own custom insert!</li>
<li>Portal module with feeding access for a first small outworld to explore and expand</li>
<li>4x or 6x Gateway modules to expand the farm</li>
</ul><h3>Updates/Changelog</h3>
<p><strong>2020.11.08</strong></p>
<ul><li>Started documentation at <a rel="nofollow" href="https://of.schemen.me">https://of.schemen.me</a></li>
</ul><p><strong>2020.11.05</strong></p>
<ul><li>Added Tube connectors with a 90&#xB0; angle. Only available for CV2 for now.</li>
</ul><p><strong>2020.11.05</strong></p>
<ul><li>Changed formicaria humidity holes into funnel shaped holes to improve printing
<ul><li>Because the hole is in shape of a funnel it can be a lot tighter on the top level. The holes facing the ants are now 0.4mmx0.4mm big!</li>
</ul></li>
</ul><p><strong>2020.11.02</strong></p>
<ul><li>Added 6xGateway
<ul><li>More space or broader attachement to other modules!</li>
</ul></li>
</ul><p><strong>2020.11.01</strong></p>
<ul><li>Small fixes</li>
<li>Added Connector raiser for CV1 and CV2. With that, you can connect modules like the Portal to a formicarium without it floating! </li>
<li>Added Separators, only CV2. This allows you separate connected modules while blocking both ends!</li>
</ul><p><strong>2020.11.01</strong></p>
<ul><li>Fixed m3 boreholes</li>
<li>Updated the Portal Lid to accomodate the borehole</li>
<li>Introduce the Connector Version 2!
<ul><li>Improved design, now also able to prevent escapee ants when changing connectors or modules!</li>
</ul></li>
</ul><p><strong>2020.10.30</strong></p>
<ul><li>Added Size M Formicarizm with a Lasius inspired filling! Download or check the Zip file</li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=-+-&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        - -                    </a>

                    -
</body></html>

OpenFormicaria - A Modular ant housing platform

# OpenFormicaria

A Open Source modular ant formicarium and home with simple space saving connectors.

**Documentation:** [https://of.schemen.me](https://of.schemen.me)

**How to Contribute:** [https://of.schemen.me/contrib/](https://of.schemen.me/contrib/)

## Features overview

OpenFormicaria is a set of parts that interconnect expand upon another. Any part is compatible with any other part ranging from the small Portal where you can found your colony after the test tube up to interconnecting many formicaria.

All modules are based on a 35mmx35mm base grid for ability to interconnect all of them (At least connector facing parts). 4xGateway is 35x35mm, 6xGateway is 35x70mm. All of the modules are 20mm high.

* A variety of connectors to connect modules, formicaria, tubes etc.
* Connectors can be exchanged safely while the part is in use to prevent ant escapees.
* Different sizes of formicaria for different colony sizes
* Different formicaria insert styles for different ant races
* Easy way to create your own custom insert!
* Portal module with feeding access for a first small outworld to explore and expand
* 4x or 6x Gateway modules to expand the farm

# Updates/Changelog
**2020.11.08**
* Started documentation at https://of.schemen.me

**2020.11.05**
* Added Tube connectors with a 90° angle. Only available for CV2 for now.

**2020.11.05**
* Changed formicaria humidity holes into funnel shaped holes to improve printing
  * Because the hole is in shape of a funnel it can be a lot tighter on the top level. The holes facing the ants are now 0.4mmx0.4mm big!

**2020.11.02**
* Added 6xGateway
  * More space or broader attachement to other modules!

**2020.11.01**
* Small fixes
* Added Connector raiser for CV1 and CV2. With that, you can connect modules like the Portal to a formicarium without it floating! 
* Added Separators, only CV2. This allows you separate connected modules while blocking both ends!

**2020.11.01**
* Fixed m3 boreholes
* Updated the Portal Lid to accomodate the borehole
* Introduce the Connector Version 2!
  * Improved design, now also able to prevent escapee ants when changing connectors or modules!

**2020.10.30**
* Added Size M Formicarizm with a Lasius inspired filling! Download or check the Zip file


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Ideally, Copic markers should be stored horizontally to prevent ink to sink towards the bottom of the marker.</p>
<p>Print shelves and organize as your collection grows.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR-10S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>12%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Amazon+basics+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Amazon basics PLA                    </a>

                    Grey
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Printed with 3 walls</p></div>
</body></html>

Modular storage for Copic markers

Ideally, Copic markers should be stored horizontally to prevent ink to sink towards the bottom of the marker.

Print shelves and organize as your collection grows.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Modular, definable width (shown with 230mm wide equipment maximum). 1RU holes same as any standard rack mount, exactly 1U of space per frame module.</p>
<p>Visit <a rel="nofollow" href="https://grabcad.com/library/3d-printed-mini-server-rack-1">https://grabcad.com/library/3d-printed-mini-server-rack-1</a> for the original CAD files if you want to make your own rack inserts for your equipment. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.28</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Hatchbox+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Hatchbox PLA                    </a>

                    Grey
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Designed to be printable on a 220x220 bed. Most mounting ears come in 2 parts, so very easy to print. But for larger items I needed to split them in half and melt them together. If you have a larger printer, go ahead and make solid connectors as one piece.</p>
<p>Frame modules are best if printed standing up, with the &quot;front&quot; of the rack face down. Orientation of the others all depends on how you want to deal with supports.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<div><p>I recommend <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.com/DYWISHKEY-Pieces-Washers-Assortment-Wrenches/dp/B07WZL3Z7H/ref=sr_1_14?dchild=1&amp;keywords=countersunk+metric+bolt+and+nut+assortment&amp;qid=1603748587&amp;sr=8-14&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">these nuts and bolts</a> if you want to use exactly what I used. </p>
<p>The loops on the sides of the frame modules are intended to act as zip tie anchors, although I didn&apos;t wind up using them in my case.</p></div>
</body></html>

Mini Server Rack

Modular, definable width (shown with 230mm wide equipment maximum). 1RU holes same as any standard rack mount, exactly 1U of space per frame module.

Visit https://grabcad.com/library/3d-printed-mini-server-rack-1 for the original CAD files if you want to make your own rack inserts for your equipment. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I need a 2040 profile adapter for the awesome <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2194278">Modular Mounting System</a> by HeyVye.</p>
<p>StuartGrande already made one, thing 4544068, but I needed a 90* rotated version.</p>
<p>So I uploaded it to tinkercad.com, split it in half, rotated the top, and cleaned it all up just enough to be functional.</p>
<p>I didn&apos;t end up using it, but did want to save other people the trouble of designing the thing.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>80%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Sunlu+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Sunlu PETG                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p><em>The following directions are copied and pasted from StuartGrande&apos;s original design. I did not print it myself, so can not give advice directly.</em></p>
<blockquote>
<p>Print it like in the image with support, make sure to give a big xy distance between your support and the part (1.2mm for me worked very well and was super easy to remove afterwards).</p>
<p>Thera are 4 wholes for M2 screws and nuts if you want to make it sturdies but that is optional, if you are not hanging anything too have you could probably get way without it.</p>
</blockquote></div>
</body></html>

2040 End Cap Modular Mounting System

I need a 2040 profile adapter for the awesome [Modular Mounting System](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2194278) by HeyVye.

StuartGrande already made one, thing 4544068, but I needed a 90* rotated version.

So I uploaded it to tinkercad.com, split it in half, rotated the top, and cleaned it all up just enough to be functional.

I didn't end up using it, but did want to save other people the trouble of designing the thing.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Deutsch</h3>
<p>Das ist meine Version eines Exo-Skeletts f&#xFC;r den Anet A8. Die Teile sind dabei aber so simpel gestaltet, dass aus ihnen durchaus auch Gestelle und Rahmen f&#xFC;r andere Dinge hergestellt werden k&#xF6;nnen.</p>
<p>Zun&#xE4;chst hatte ich die Versteifung des A8 mit diagonalen M8 Gewindest&#xE4;ben wie sie oft zu sehen ist. Diese war mir aber aus 4 Gr&#xFC;nden nicht mehr gut genug:</p>
<ul><li>Optik</li>
<li>St&#xF6;rend beim zugriff auf den Bauraum</li>
<li>Die seitlichen Originalteile des Rahmens konnten immer noch in sich verdrehen (Torsion)</li>
<li>Umst&#xE4;ndlich auszurichten wenn man an der Z-Achse gebaut hat.</li>
</ul><p>Mein Exo-Skelett besteht im Wesentlich aus Aluminium Profilen vom Baumarkt in den Abmessung 27,5 x 15,5mm. Selbst gedruckt kommen hinzu:</p>
<ul><li>4 Ecken bestehen aus je 2 Teilen (Au&#xDF;enteil in 2 Versionen)</li>
<li>4 Standf&#xFC;&#xDF;e</li>
<li>2 Einfassungen f&#xFC;r den Originalrahmen bestehen aus Oberteil, Unterteil und Schale f&#xFC;r 806Z Kugellager (Optional)</li>
<li>2 T-St&#xFC;cken f&#xFC;r die Querstrebe </li>
<li>2 Halterungen mit 30&#xB0; Drehung f&#xFC;r M8 Gewindestab (Diagonale Festigung)</li>
</ul><p>Die Einfassungen ersetzen die oberen Abdeckungen f&#xFC;r die Linearf&#xFC;hrung und fassen den Anet A8 Rahmen formb&#xFC;ndig. Sie besitzen eine Durchf&#xFC;hrung f&#xFC;r das Aluminiumprofil. Die Unterseite hat eine Aufnahme f&#xFC;r die die Linearf&#xFC;hrung, welche sehr eng gehalten ist um Schwingungen zu reduzieren. Zus&#xE4;tzlich kann ein Kugellage f&#xFC;r die Trapetzgewindestange eingesetzt werden. Dies ist Optional, da es hier verschiedenen Meinungen gibt ob das gut und sinnvoll ist oder nicht. F&#xFC;r meinen A8 funktioniert es super, aber ich habe hochwertige Linearf&#xFC;hrungen und Spindeln eingesetzt an Stelle der Originalen Teile.</p>
<p>Der Rahmen ist f&#xFC;r die Montage auf einer Grundplatte (zusammen mit dem A8) gedacht. Bei richtigem Aufbau korrigiert er Neigungen in allen Achsen welche durch den Originalrahmen nicht sicher vermieden werden k&#xF6;nnen. Durch Reduzierung von Torsion und in Verbindung mit einer Rahmenverst&#xE4;rkung des A8 sind hohe Genauigkeiten bei hohen Geschwindigkeiten (100mm/s) durchaus machbar.</p>
<p><b>Achtung! Dadurch, dass der Wagen f&#xFC;r den Extruder bei Verwendung des Kugellagers f&#xFC;r die Spindel nicht mehr so leicht um die X-Achse Kippen kann muss genau auf die Extrudereinstellung geachtet werden, sonst kann der Druckkopf an zu dicken Layern h&#xE4;ngen bleiben und die Y-Achse verliert dabei schon mal ganz gerne ein paar Schritte.</b></p>
<p>Die Teile sind sehr eng ausgelegt, ggf. m&#xFC;sst Ihr sie nach dem Druck nachbearbeiten oder entsprechend Skalieren. Zu locker sollten sie nicht sitzen.  </p>
<p>Hoffe mein nunmehr 13ter Beitrag gef&#xE4;llt euch. Fragen und Anregung gerne in den Kommentaren. Freue mich &#xFC;ber Makes und Likes. </p>
<p><span style="color: blue;"><br>
Wer etwas spenden m&#xF6;chte kann dies &#xFC;ber Paypal gerne tun.<br>
paypal.me/TorstenJust</span></p>
<p>Habt Spa&#xDF; beim Drucken! :)</p>
<p><b>Update:</b><br>
12.11.2020 - Fehlende T-St&#xFC;cke erg&#xE4;nzt und Halterungen f&#xFC;r diagonale Verstrebung hinzugef&#xFC;gt</p>
<h3>English </h3>
<p>(Google-Translation)</p>
<p>This is my version of an exoskeleton for the Anet A8. The parts are designed so simply that they can also be used to make racks and frames for other things.</p>
<p>First, I had the stiffening of the A8 with diagonal M8 threaded rods as you can often see them. But this was no longer good enough for me for 4 reasons:</p>
<ul><li>optics</li>
<li>Disruptive when accessing the installation space</li>
<li>The original side parts of the frame could still twist in themselves (torsion)</li>
<li>Difficult to align when you have built on the Z-axis.</li>
</ul><p>My exo-skeleton consists essentially of aluminum profiles from the hardware store in the dimensions 27.5 x 15.5mm. Also printed are:</p>
<ul><li>4 corners consist of 2 parts each (Outer Part in 2 Versions)</li>
<li>4 feet</li>
<li>2 frames for the original frame consist of an upper part, a lower part and a shell for 806Z ball bearings (optional)</li>
<li>2 T-pieces for the cross brace</li>
<li>2 brackets with 30 &#xB0; rotation for M8 threaded rod (diagonal fastening)</li>
</ul><p>The bezels replace the upper covers for the linear guide and hold the Anet A8 frame flush. They have a bushing for the aluminum profile. The underside has a mount for the linear guide, which is kept very close to reduce vibrations. In addition, a ball bearing can be used for the trapezoidal threaded rod. This is optional, as there are different opinions as to whether this is good and sensible or not. It works great for my A8, but I used high quality linear guides and spindles instead of the original parts.</p>
<p>The frame is intended for mounting on a base plate (together with the A8). If set up correctly, it corrects inclinations in all axes which cannot be safely avoided with the original frame. By reducing torsion and in connection with a frame reinforcement of the A8, high accuracies at high speeds (100mm / s) are quite feasible.</p>
<p><b> Attention! Because the carriage for the extruder can no longer tilt so easily around the X-axis when using the ball bearing for the spindle, you must pay close attention to the extruder setting, otherwise the print head can get stuck on layers that are too thick and possibly lose a few steps on y-axis. </b></p>
<p>The parts are designed very tightly, you may have to rework them after printing or scale them accordingly. They shouldn&apos;t sit too loosely.</p>
<p>Hope you like my now 13th post. Questions and suggestions are welcome in the comments. I&apos;m happy about makes and likes.</p>
<p><span style="color: blue;"><br>
If you want to donate some money, you can do so via PayPal.<br>
paypal.me/TorstenJust </span></p>
<p>Have fun printing! :)</p>
<p><b> Update: </b><br>
11/12/2020 - Missing T-Pieces added and brackets for diagonal bracing added</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>60%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Any+PLA%2C+PETG+or+other&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Any PLA, PETG or other                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Ich habe meine Teile aus PLA gefertigt, wom&#xF6;glich w&#xE4;re PETG besser geeignet um den Schwingungen dauerhaft zu widerstehen. Die Zeit wird es zeigen. :)</p>
<p>Google-Translation:<br>
I made my parts from PLA, maybe PETG would be better suited to permanently withstand the vibrations. The time will tell. :)</p></div>
</body></html>

Modular exoskeleton for Anet A8 or frame parts for other devices

<h1>Deutsch</h1>

Das ist meine Version eines Exo-Skeletts für den Anet A8. Die Teile sind dabei aber so simpel gestaltet, dass aus ihnen durchaus auch Gestelle und Rahmen für andere Dinge hergestellt werden können.

Zunächst hatte ich die Versteifung des A8 mit diagonalen M8 Gewindestäben wie sie oft zu sehen ist. Diese war mir aber aus 4 Gründen nicht mehr gut genug:
- Optik
- Störend beim zugriff auf den Bauraum
- Die seitlichen Originalteile des Rahmens konnten immer noch in sich verdrehen (Torsion)
- Umständlich auszurichten wenn man an der Z-Achse gebaut hat.

Mein Exo-Skelett besteht im Wesentlich aus Aluminium Profilen vom Baumarkt in den Abmessung 27,5 x 15,5mm. Selbst gedruckt kommen hinzu:

- 4 Ecken bestehen aus je 2 Teilen (Außenteil in 2 Versionen)
- 4 Standfüße
- 2 Einfassungen für den Originalrahmen bestehen aus Oberteil, Unterteil und Schale für 806Z Kugellager (Optional)
- 2 T-Stücken für die Querstrebe 
- 2 Halterungen mit 30° Drehung für M8 Gewindestab (Diagonale Festigung)

Die Einfassungen ersetzen die oberen Abdeckungen für die Linearführung und fassen den Anet A8 Rahmen formbündig. Sie besitzen eine Durchführung für das Aluminiumprofil. Die Unterseite hat eine Aufnahme für die die Linearführung, welche sehr eng gehalten ist um Schwingungen zu reduzieren. Zusätzlich kann ein Kugellage für die Trapetzgewindestange eingesetzt werden. Dies ist Optional, da es hier verschiedenen Meinungen gibt ob das gut und sinnvoll ist oder nicht. Für meinen A8 funktioniert es super, aber ich habe hochwertige Linearführungen und Spindeln eingesetzt an Stelle der Originalen Teile.

Der Rahmen ist für die Montage auf einer Grundplatte (zusammen mit dem A8) gedacht. Bei richtigem Aufbau korrigiert er Neigungen in allen Achsen welche durch den Originalrahmen nicht sicher vermieden werden können. Durch Reduzierung von Torsion und in Verbindung mit einer Rahmenverstärkung des A8 sind hohe Genauigkeiten bei hohen Geschwindigkeiten (100mm/s) durchaus machbar.

<b>Achtung! Dadurch, dass der Wagen für den Extruder bei Verwendung des Kugellagers für die Spindel nicht mehr so leicht um die X-Achse Kippen kann muss genau auf die Extrudereinstellung geachtet werden, sonst kann der Druckkopf an zu dicken Layern hängen bleiben und die Y-Achse verliert dabei schon mal ganz gerne ein paar Schritte.</b>

Die Teile sind sehr eng ausgelegt, ggf. müsst Ihr sie nach dem Druck nachbearbeiten oder entsprechend Skalieren. Zu locker sollten sie nicht sitzen.  

Hoffe mein nunmehr 13ter Beitrag gefällt euch. Fragen und Anregung gerne in den Kommentaren. Freue mich über Makes und Likes. 

<font color="blue">
Wer etwas spenden möchte kann dies über Paypal gerne tun.
paypal.me/TorstenJust</font>


Habt Spaß beim Drucken! :)

<b>Update:</b>
12.11.2020 - Fehlende T-Stücke ergänzt und Halterungen für diagonale Verstrebung hinzugefügt


<h1>English </h1>
(Google-Translation)


This is my version of an exoskeleton for the Anet A8. The parts are designed so simply that they can also be used to make racks and frames for other things.

First, I had the stiffening of the A8 with diagonal M8 threaded rods as you can often see them. But this was no longer good enough for me for 4 reasons:
- optics
- Disruptive when accessing the installation space
- The original side parts of the frame could still twist in themselves (torsion)
- Difficult to align when you have built on the Z-axis.

My exo-skeleton consists essentially of aluminum profiles from the hardware store in the dimensions 27.5 x 15.5mm. Also printed are:

- 4 corners consist of 2 parts each (Outer Part in 2 Versions)
- 4 feet
- 2 frames for the original frame consist of an upper part, a lower part and a shell for 806Z ball bearings (optional)
- 2 T-pieces for the cross brace
- 2 brackets with 30 ° rotation for M8 threaded rod (diagonal fastening)

The bezels replace the upper covers for the linear guide and hold the Anet A8 frame flush. They have a bushing for the aluminum profile. The underside has a mount for the linear guide, which is kept very close to reduce vibrations. In addition, a ball bearing can be used for the trapezoidal threaded rod. This is optional, as there are different opinions as to whether this is good and sensible or not. It works great for my A8, but I used high quality linear guides and spindles instead of the original parts.

The frame is intended for mounting on a base plate (together with the A8). If set up correctly, it corrects inclinations in all axes which cannot be safely avoided with the original frame. By reducing torsion and in connection with a frame reinforcement of the A8, high accuracies at high speeds (100mm / s) are quite feasible.

<b> Attention! Because the carriage for the extruder can no longer tilt so easily around the X-axis when using the ball bearing for the spindle, you must pay close attention to the extruder setting, otherwise the print head can get stuck on layers that are too thick and possibly lose a few steps on y-axis. </b>

The parts are designed very tightly, you may have to rework them after printing or scale them accordingly. They shouldn't sit too loosely.

Hope you like my now 13th post. Questions and suggestions are welcome in the comments. I'm happy about makes and likes.

<font color = "blue">
If you want to donate some money, you can do so via PayPal.
paypal.me/TorstenJust </font>


Have fun printing! :)


<b> Update: </b>
11/12/2020 - Missing T-Pieces added and brackets for diagonal bracing added


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>My wife wanted a desk organiser, so i told her to pick one on Thingiverse.</p>
<p>I must say i like the original design, being modular, but i absolutely didn&#x2019;t like the way the male and female slots where designed.<br>
In my opinion (and as said in the comments) these should be inverted for much easier printing.</p>
<p>So i completely started from scratch and designed my version, based on the original design.</p>
<p>I also included the fusion360 and .STEP files for you to tinker with the design.<br>
If you do, please post it as a remix!</p>
<p>Please leave a comment if you have a request for a certain module, and i will be glad to design it.</p>
<p>All bases and modules can be printed WITHOUT supports.<br>
The slot in the bottom of a module is small enough for most printers to gap without problems.<br>
The single module base measurement is 84 by 84mm.</p>
<p>The base parts easily hook together and i think i included just about every variation i could think of. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Jupiter+%2F+SUNLU+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Jupiter / SUNLU PLA                    </a>

                    White / Rainbow
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>The design is optimized for a 0.4 nozzle and 0.2 layer height</p></div>
</body></html>

Modular Desk Organiser

My wife wanted a desk organiser, so i told her to pick one on Thingiverse.

I must say i like the original design, being modular, but i absolutely didn’t like the way the male and female slots where designed.
In my opinion (and as said in the comments) these should be inverted for much easier printing.

So i completely started from scratch and designed my version, based on the original design.

I also included the fusion360 and .STEP files for you to tinker with the design.
If you do, please post it as a remix!

Please leave a comment if you have a request for a certain module, and i will be glad to design it.

All bases and modules can be printed WITHOUT supports.
The slot in the bottom of a module is small enough for most printers to gap without problems.
The single module base measurement is 84 by 84mm.

The base parts easily hook together and i think i included just about every variation i could think of. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Note: Those photos are from V1, but the slicer images are from V2</p>
<p>Problem: I love cycling and I use my bike for almost anything. I recently acquired a smart band that monitors my activities, but as there is no built-in GPS I don&apos;t know how many kilometers I have cycled, maximum speed, weather forecast and that type of information. But I would have this information if I had somewhere to take my cell phone with me.</p>
<p>Idea: I like this idea of &#x200B;&#x200B;modularity, so I thought of creating a socket where I simply attach and detach the accessory I want to use. For example, a compartment to leave the cell phone (my clothes have no pockets), support to put a speaker (JBL Flip 4 in my case), and other things that I may need in the future.</p>
<p>Solution: Based on extruded aluminum profiles (like those of 3D printers) I modeled a piece that is attached to the bicycle on the screws that come to place bottle holders (on my soul bike there are 2 pairs of these screws). Then I modeled the compartment to put the cell phone in and now I&apos;m working on the compartment for the speaker.</p>
<h3>Tips</h3>
<p>&#x2192; Dimensional tolerance of 0.3mm, so even a slightly out-of-calibrated printer would have no problem with moving parts.<br>
&#x2192; Pay attention that the slicer does not place supports inside the hinges, this can cause some malfunction in the piece.<br>
&#x2192; Use the &quot;Bridges&quot; setting to make the upper ceiling<br>
&#x2192; Place &quot;supports everywhere&quot; and an 80% fill interface in the centric pattern for best results.<br>
&#x2192; You don&apos;t need to buy any screws unless your bike doesn&apos;t have them (mine were M5)</p>
<p>Note: I did NOT test the model with supports already built into the lid, so if someone tests it, please post it in the &quot;Makes&quot; area</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.22</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>6%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=e-Sun+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        e-Sun PLA                    </a>

                    Silver 
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Use at least 2 or more walls.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/0e/f8/5e/08/c6/Phone-Sliced3.PNG"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Those are the internal supports that i mentioned.</strong></p>
</body></html>

Modular Bicycle (Bike) Holder V2

Note: Those photos are from V1, but the slicer images are from V2

Problem: I love cycling and I use my bike for almost anything. I recently acquired a smart band that monitors my activities, but as there is no built-in GPS I don't know how many kilometers I have cycled, maximum speed, weather forecast and that type of information. But I would have this information if I had somewhere to take my cell phone with me.

Idea: I like this idea of ​​modularity, so I thought of creating a socket where I simply attach and detach the accessory I want to use. For example, a compartment to leave the cell phone (my clothes have no pockets), support to put a speaker (JBL Flip 4 in my case), and other things that I may need in the future.

Solution: Based on extruded aluminum profiles (like those of 3D printers) I modeled a piece that is attached to the bicycle on the screws that come to place bottle holders (on my soul bike there are 2 pairs of these screws). Then I modeled the compartment to put the cell phone in and now I'm working on the compartment for the speaker.

#Tips
→ Dimensional tolerance of 0.3mm, so even a slightly out-of-calibrated printer would have no problem with moving parts.
→ Pay attention that the slicer does not place supports inside the hinges, this can cause some malfunction in the piece.
→ Use the "Bridges" setting to make the upper ceiling
→ Place "supports everywhere" and an 80% fill interface in the centric pattern for best results.
→ You don't need to buy any screws unless your bike doesn't have them (mine were M5)

Note: I did NOT test the model with supports already built into the lid, so if someone tests it, please post it in the "Makes" area

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