Researchers are working on a way to turn human waste into different substances, including omega-3 fatty acids and plastics, by using yeast.

Astronauts Mix Recycled Urine with Yeast to Create 3D Printing Filament | All3DP

Next year, the International Space Station will receive the Refabricator, the first machine to mix recycling and 3D printing into one process.

NASA's Refabricator Will Turn Recycled Plastic Into New 3D Printed Components | All3DP

Mix your own drinks at any party with Anouk Wipprecht's 3D printed robotic cocktail dress; the Drinkbot can pour an Old Fashioned on command.

DrinkBot: Behold the 3D Printed Robotic Cocktail Dress | All3DP

Barclays is opening "Eagle Labs" Makerspaces on UK high streets to educate the public about new technology. Do big banks and 3D printing mix?

Barclays New "Eagle Labs" Makerspaces Offer 3D Printing | All3DP

The Pine A64 is another single-board computer riding on the tails of the Raspberry Pi. Learn all about its particular mix of features.

Pine A64: Review the Specs | All3DP

Got an itch in your green thumb? Use your 3D printer and concrete mix to create a set of geometrically gorgeous pot molds to house your next batch of plants.

[Project] 3D Printed Geometric Concrete Pot Molds | All3DP

If you want reproducible results for your 3D printed metal parts, you’ll need the perfect mix of gasses in the print chamber. Linde now offers a new solution for better metal prints.

Linde Just Solved One of Metal 3D Printing Problems | All3DP

Need some on-the-run laboratory equipment or just a neat way to mix liquids? One hobbyist named John Coggeshall shows us how to build a 3D printed magnetic stirrer. Let's get scientific!

[Project] 3D Print Your Own Magnetic Stirrer | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Throttle Quadrant with Reverse Thrust for Flight Simulator</h3>
<h3>Inspired on Cessna Caravan - One truly amazing aircraft!</h3>
<p>This throttle quadrant uses three analog ports in an Arduino to handle throttle, propeller and cutoff/mixture. It is fully compatible with the new Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020. The reverse thrust is toggled as a &quot;virtual&quot; button when the potentiometer reaches a threshold.</p>
<p>This project uses two screws and nuts from Nut Job so we can attach the quadrant to the edge of a table.</p>
<p>The Arduino I used for this project is the Arduino Pro Micro with <strong>ATmega32U4</strong> chip <ins><strong>(very important!!)</strong></ins>. This chip allows us to use the &quot;Joystick&quot; library (see code below) as it already has a USB HID feature.</p>
<p>If you want to use an Arduino Uno or other that uses the <strong>ATmega328P</strong> chip the code below <ins><strong>won&apos;t work</strong></ins>, but it&apos;s possible to adapt it with minimal changes, please refer to the UnoJoy library and its examples:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://code.google.com/archive/p/unojoy/">https://code.google.com/archive/p/unojoy/</a></p>
<h3>Extra Materials Needed (that are not printed):</h3>
<ul><li>9 screws for base case
<blockquote>
<p><em>- The screws I used were 3.5 mm self-tapping that I had spare at home, you may need to tweak the holes to use a different screw.</em></p>
</blockquote></li>
<li>3 screws to attach each top to the corresponding lever
<blockquote>
<p><em>- These were also designed for the same screws as above (3.5 mm self-tapping). You may need to tweak the holes to use a different screw</em></p>
</blockquote></li>
<li>1 ballpen spring; <em>(for the reverse actuator)</em></li>
<li>3 B10K potentiometers
<blockquote>
<p><em>The potentiometers attach to the case using the nut provided with them (M6?). Do not use a washer.</em></p>
</blockquote></li>
<li>Arduino with <strong>ATmega32U4</strong> chip (Pro Micro, Leonardo, etc.)</li>
<li>Wires/Soldering Iron/DuPont Pins</li>
</ul><h3>How to Print:</h3>
<ul><li>
<p>The case parts are designed to use support only on the potentiometer stand and table attachment holes. For both of these a standard &quot;tree&quot; support from Cura will work.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><em>- For Cases 1 and 4 make sure you print them on their side with the solid face down</em><br><em>- For Cases 2 and 3 make sure you print them on their side it with the lever slot facing up.</em><br><em>- If you see supports other than the ones I mentioned, you&apos;re probably using wrong orientation.</em></p>
</blockquote>
</li>
<li>
<p>Print all the lever sideways.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><em>- The throttle lever needs a support on the potentiometer hole</em><br><em>- The propeller lever needs a support on half of it&apos;s extension so you can print the bended portion, make sure that bend is facing up</em><br><em>- The cutoff/mixture lever also needs a support on half of it&apos;s extension for the bended portion, make sure the bend is facing up</em><br><em>- The reverse lever is printed with the handle (large cylinder) facing up, you&apos;ll need TWO of these for our Throttle Quadrant. You&apos;ll need a support on almost all the extension. You might want to use a &quot;brim&quot; for this one.</em></p>
</blockquote>
</li>
<li>The bolt and nut are printed vertically - This is important so the thread works! - You&apos;ll need two of each.</li>
</ul><h3>Assembly:</h3>
<p>I honestly didn&apos;t give that part a lot of thought so it might be a little tricky with all the wires soldered...my bad, but it is possible and it works.</p>
<p>1) Solder all wires to the potentiometers, make sure you take their orientation into account (the cutoff/mixture pot is facing the opposite way).</p>
<p>2) Get the wires thru the hole on Case 1.</p>
<p>3) Attach the pots to their stand using the nut that came with them. Pay attention to the orientation.</p>
<p>4) Attach each lever to their corresponding top using the screws.</p>
<p>5) Insert the spring on the bottom slot of the throttle lever. There&apos;s a small round notch where the spring fits.</p>
<p>6) Attach the two reverse lever parts under the spring, bringing them inside the throttle lever slot. This might require some sanding. Make sure the reverse lever is moving up and down rather effortlessly and the spring is workin as it should. - The print slot is highlighted in RED in the project pictures.</p>
<p>7) For the Case start with #4 and the cutoff lever. The lever attaches to the potentiometer by pressure fit. Then you can add Case #3 and the 3 screws. These screws are supposed to be tightened as needed. Test if the lever is moving up and down freely but not loosely. You need to have friction between the lever and the slot so it remains in the position you put in otherwise its own weight will bring it down.</p>
<p>8) Work your way up until Case #1</p>
<p>9) Solder the wires to the Arduino and connect it to the computer for uploading the sketch file. You&apos;re done!</p>
<h3>Code:</h3>
<p>0) Make sure you download it with the Things files.</p>
<p>1) You&apos;ll need to install the libraries mentioned in the code.</p>
<p>2) Please uncomment the &quot;Serial.print&quot; items under the &quot;potentiometers&quot; function so we can get the calibration values. Also uncomment the serial port initialization under &quot;setup&quot;</p>
<p>3) Upload the code to your Arduino and open the &quot;Serial Plotter&quot;. Identify which potentiometer is assigned to each lever and move them up and down. Take note of the respective pot values and replace in the calibration part.</p>
<p>4) Make sure to <strong>re-comment</strong> everything you <strong>uncommented</strong> previously.</p>
<p>5) Re-upload the file with the correct calibration. You can use the standard Windows Joystick calibration tool to check if it&apos;s working. It will show a joystick called &quot;Arduino Leonardo&quot;.</p>
<p>6) Assign the respective axes and button to &quot;Toggle Reverse Thrust&quot; on MSFS2020 and enjoy!</p>
<h3>If I forgot something or you find an easier way of doing any of these steps let me know! I hope you enjoy it!</h3></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=3D+Fila+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        3D Fila PLA                    </a>

                    White
</body></html>

Throttle Quadrant for Flight Simulator

# Throttle Quadrant with Reverse Thrust for Flight Simulator

### Inspired on Cessna Caravan - One truly amazing aircraft!

This throttle quadrant uses three analog ports in an Arduino to handle throttle, propeller and cutoff/mixture. It is fully compatible with the new Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020. The reverse thrust is toggled as a "virtual" button when the potentiometer reaches a threshold.

This project uses two screws and nuts from Nut Job so we can attach the quadrant to the edge of a table.

The Arduino I used for this project is the Arduino Pro Micro with **ATmega32U4** chip <ins>**(very important!!)**</ins>. This chip allows us to use the "Joystick" library (see code below) as it already has a USB HID feature.

If you want to use an Arduino Uno or other that uses the **ATmega328P** chip the code below <ins>**won't work**</ins>, but it's possible to adapt it with minimal changes, please refer to the UnoJoy library and its examples:
https://code.google.com/archive/p/unojoy/

### Extra Materials Needed (that are not printed):

 - 9 screws for base case
 > *- The screws I used were 3.5 mm self-tapping that I had spare at home, you may need to tweak the holes to use a different screw.*
 - 3 screws to attach each top to the corresponding lever
> *- These were also designed for the same screws as above (3.5 mm self-tapping). You may need to tweak the holes to use a different screw*
 - 1 ballpen spring; *(for the reverse actuator)*
 - 3 B10K potentiometers
>*The potentiometers attach to the case using the nut provided with them (M6?). Do not use a washer.*
 - Arduino with **ATmega32U4** chip (Pro Micro, Leonardo, etc.)
 - Wires/Soldering Iron/DuPont Pins

### How to Print:

- The case parts are designed to use support only on the potentiometer stand and table attachment holes. For both of these a standard "tree" support from Cura will work.
> *- For Cases 1 and 4 make sure you print them on their side with the solid face down*
> *- For Cases 2 and 3 make sure you print them on their side it with the lever slot facing up.*
> *- If you see supports other than the ones I mentioned, you're probably using wrong orientation.*

- Print all the lever sideways.
>*- The throttle lever needs a support on the potentiometer hole*
>*- The propeller lever needs a support on half of it's extension so you can print the bended portion, make sure that bend is facing up*
>*- The cutoff/mixture lever also needs a support on half of it's extension for the bended portion, make sure the bend is facing up*
>*- The reverse lever is printed with the handle (large cylinder) facing up, you'll need TWO of these for our Throttle Quadrant. You'll need a support on almost all the extension. You might want to use a "brim" for this one.*

- The bolt and nut are printed vertically - This is important so the thread works! - You'll need two of each.


### Assembly:
I honestly didn't give that part a lot of thought so it might be a little tricky with all the wires soldered...my bad, but it is possible and it works.

1) Solder all wires to the potentiometers, make sure you take their orientation into account (the cutoff/mixture pot is facing the opposite way).

2) Get the wires thru the hole on Case 1.

3) Attach the pots to their stand using the nut that came with them. Pay attention to the orientation.

4) Attach each lever to their corresponding top using the screws.

5) Insert the spring on the bottom slot of the throttle lever. There's a small round notch where the spring fits.

6) Attach the two reverse lever parts under the spring, bringing them inside the throttle lever slot. This might require some sanding. Make sure the reverse lever is moving up and down rather effortlessly and the spring is workin as it should. - The print slot is highlighted in RED in the project pictures.

7) For the Case start with #4 and the cutoff lever. The lever attaches to the potentiometer by pressure fit. Then you can add Case #3 and the 3 screws. These screws are supposed to be tightened as needed. Test if the lever is moving up and down freely but not loosely. You need to have friction between the lever and the slot so it remains in the position you put in otherwise its own weight will bring it down.

8) Work your way up until Case #1

9) Solder the wires to the Arduino and connect it to the computer for uploading the sketch file. You're done!

### Code:

0) Make sure you download it with the Things files.

1) You'll need to install the libraries mentioned in the code.

2) Please uncomment the "Serial.print" items under the "potentiometers" function so we can get the calibration values. Also uncomment the serial port initialization under "setup"

3) Upload the code to your Arduino and open the "Serial Plotter". Identify which potentiometer is assigned to each lever and move them up and down. Take note of the respective pot values and replace in the calibration part.

4) Make sure to **re-comment** everything you **uncommented** previously.

5) Re-upload the file with the correct calibration. You can use the standard Windows Joystick calibration tool to check if it's working. It will show a joystick called "Arduino Leonardo".

6) Assign the respective axes and button to "Toggle Reverse Thrust" on MSFS2020 and enjoy!

### If I forgot something or you find an easier way of doing any of these steps let me know! I hope you enjoy it!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>My design for an amp style deej mixer. Yes its beefy xD. I used ruthex M4 threaded inserts(No.1) for mine, but i also uploaded a version with modeled M4 threads(No.2) and holes to cut the M4 threads with a screw or tap(No.4). The arduino holder is meant for an arduino nano, with a &quot;mini usb&quot; plug.  I used the one from AZDelivery on amazon<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B078S8BJ8T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B078S8BJ8T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a></p>
<p>Deej software and arduino sketch: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/omriharel/deej">https://github.com/omriharel/deej</a><br>
(i didnt write the arduino script, nor the software. Thanks goes to the real creator xD)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.28</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15% Grid</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=OWL++PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        OWL  PLA                    </a>

                    White&amp;Violett 
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Printed it on my Ender 3 Pro with the creality 3D glas bed. Speed was 50mm/s. Nozzle temp was 205&#xB0;C and bed temp was 55&#xB0;C. No rafts or anything, Just the skirt, 3 lines 3mm away from the print</p></div>
</body></html>

Deej amp style mixer

My design for an amp style deej mixer. Yes its beefy xD. I used ruthex M4 threaded inserts(No.1) for mine, but i also uploaded a version with modeled M4 threads(No.2) and holes to cut the M4 threads with a screw or tap(No.4). The arduino holder is meant for an arduino nano, with a "mini usb" plug.  I used the one from AZDelivery on amazon
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B078S8BJ8T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Deej software and arduino sketch: https://github.com/omriharel/deej
(i didnt write the arduino script, nor the software. Thanks goes to the real creator xD)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a 3 post Kitchenaid mixer attachment mount to stick under your cabinets.  I used double-stick foam tape to attach it.  It&apos;s spaced wide enough that whatever attachments you have, they won&apos;t bump up against each other.</p>
<p>The &quot;1 Kitchenaid Mixer holder&quot; is just the model for a single post that you can use to design or remix your own.  </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.28</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Overture+PETG+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Overture PETG                     </a>

                    White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used white Overture PETG, printed at 230 on and Ender 3 Pro. </p>
<p>It fits going from corner to corner and is just under 230x230mm.</p>
<p>I did a Modify Mesh for overlaps about 10mm up from where columns meet the base, all the way down, with a 100% infill. If you don&apos;t know what that is, you can just print this at a 100% infill, it&apos;s just a little wasteful.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/c8/7f/a5/56/cb/IMG_6546.JPG"></p>
</body></html>

Under Counter Kitchenaid Mixer Mount

This is a 3 post Kitchenaid mixer attachment mount to stick under your cabinets.  I used double-stick foam tape to attach it.  It's spaced wide enough that whatever attachments you have, they won't bump up against each other.

The "1 Kitchenaid Mixer holder" is just the model for a single post that you can use to design or remix your own.  

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Basic foamless mixer/stirrer for paint and other moderate viscosity fluids.<br>
It goes with a 8mm wood shaft (doesn&apos;t need to be exact)<br>
Prints in 1 hour depending on your settings and it need support for the shaft coupling.<br>
60mm maximum diameter.<br>
Very simple and efficient.</p>
<p>Mezclador b&#xE1;sico sin espuma para pintura y fluidos de viscosidad moderada.<br>
Va con una varilla de 8mm como v&#xE1;stago (no necesita ser exacto).<br>
Se imprime en 1 hora dependiendo de su configuraci&#xF3;n y necesita suporte para el acople del v&#xE1;stago y el inicio de las aspas.<br>
60mm di&#xE1;metro m&#xE1;ximo.<br>
Muy simple y eficiente.</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/eEweb4FwdvE">https://youtu.be/eEweb4FwdvE</a></p></div>
</body></html>

Foamless Sturdy Paint/Liquid Mixer - Mezclador de Pintura/Líquidos Robusto sin Espuma

Basic foamless mixer/stirrer for paint and other moderate viscosity fluids.
It goes with a 8mm wood shaft (doesn't need to be exact)
Prints in 1 hour depending on your settings and it need support for the shaft coupling.
60mm maximum diameter.
Very simple and efficient.

Mezclador básico sin espuma para pintura y fluidos de viscosidad moderada.
Va con una varilla de 8mm como vástago (no necesita ser exacto).
Se imprime en 1 hora dependiendo de su configuración y necesita suporte para el acople del vástago y el inicio de las aspas.
60mm diámetro máximo.
Muy simple y eficiente.

https://youtu.be/eEweb4FwdvE

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Whats</h3>
<p>It&apos;s a spacer or packing of the VPCOK chopper/ food processor&#x2193;.<br>
It&apos;ll be improvement for the &quot;Backflow issue&quot; of this type of food processor.<br>
Enjoy!</p>
<p>VPCOK &#x306E; &#x30D5;&#x30FC;&#x30C9;&#x30D7;&#x30ED;&#x30BB;&#x30C3;&#x30B5;&#x30FC; Vpcok &#x307F;&#x3058;&#x3093;&#x5207;&#x308A;&#x5668; &#x96FB;&#x52D5; &#x30DF;&#x30AD;&#x30B5;&#x30FC; 4&#x679A;&#x30D6;&#x30EC;&#x30FC;&#x30C9; 600W 2&#x3064;&#x30E2;&#x30FC;&#x30C9; &#x5927;&#x5BB9;&#x91CF; 1.2L 1~4&#x4EBA;&#x306B;&#x9069;&#x7528; &#x30DF;&#x30F3;&#x30C1; &#x304D;&#x3056;&#x3080; &#x304A;&#x308D;&#x3059; &#x96E2;&#x4E73;&#x98DF; &#x30B9;&#x30E0;&#x30FC;&#x30B8;&#x30FC; &#x6C37; &#x7815;&#x3051;&#x308B;<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://amzn.to/2HsKWLg?tag=tv-auto-20">https://amzn.to/2HsKWLg</a></p></div>
</body></html>

VPCOK FOOD CHPPER PACKING

<H1>Whats</H1>

It's a spacer or packing of the VPCOK chopper/ food processor↓.
It'll be improvement for the "Backflow issue" of this type of food processor.
Enjoy!

VPCOK の フードプロセッサー Vpcok みじん切り器 電動 ミキサー 4枚ブレード 600W 2つモード 大容量 1.2L 1~4人に適用 ミンチ きざむ おろす 離乳食 スムージー 氷 砕ける
 https://amzn.to/2HsKWLg

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Esse &#xE9; um quadrante de manetes gen&#xE9;rico aplic&#xE1;vel a qualquer projeto de cockpit caseiro </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=ABS+ABS&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        ABS ABS                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Tudo foi impresso com ABS a 60 mm /s</p></div>
</body></html>

Manetes dos motores para simuladores de voo

Esse é um quadrante de manetes genérico aplicável a qualquer projeto de cockpit caseiro 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>A better halo headband for the Lenovo explorer. Includes mount for the top strap from a Gear VR or for a generic strap.</p>
<p>This is a remix of multiple designs but the remix selection didn&apos;t work.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>
</body></html>

Lenovo explorer better halo

A better halo headband for the Lenovo explorer. Includes mount for the top strap from a Gear VR or for a generic strap.

This is a remix of multiple designs but the remix selection didn't work.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>If you could support my YouTube channel that would be awesome :)!<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://bit.ly/SubscribeToPattysLab">https://bit.ly/SubscribeToPattysLab</a><br>
Thank you, danke, grazie, gracias, merci, xie xie, kamsahamnida, takk, spasiba, shukran :)<br>
This means a lot to me!</p>
<p>Watch the video to understand how you make this to avoid unessisary questions.<br>
Part 2 will come later with a motor speed control and mounting.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ultimaker</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2Bg7tS2?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">Ultimaker 2</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=real+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        real PLA                    </a>

                    Black,Orange
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Video is key!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom instructions-part-1-2">Instructions [Part 1/2]</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/dutfh_Ey44c" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
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Peristaltic Pump (up to4.5l/min!)

If you could support my YouTube channel that would be awesome :)!
https://bit.ly/SubscribeToPattysLab
Thank you, danke, grazie, gracias, merci, xie xie, kamsahamnida, takk, spasiba, shukran :)
This means a lot to me!

Watch the video to understand how you make this to avoid unessisary questions.
Part 2 will come later with a motor speed control and mounting.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Non-marring wrench remove the thumb screw when attached to firmly.</p></div>
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KitchenAid Stand Mixer Attachment Hub Thumb Screw Wrench

Non-marring wrench remove the thumb screw when attached to firmly.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a remix by Remizik DeeJ &quot;Nano&quot;<br>
I added a slider and changed the Arduino bracket</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>MKC MK2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=M4P+ABS&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        M4P ABS                    </a>

                    Black
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4 Slider DeeJ Nano

This is a remix by Remizik DeeJ "Nano"
I added a slider and changed the Arduino bracket


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Mixer </p>
<p>&#xD8;80mm X 215mm</p></div>
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Mixer

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Hula mixer for eppendorf and falcon tubes.</p>
<h3>Stepper connection</h3>
<p>Follow <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.makerguides.com/l298n-stepper-motor-arduino-tutorial/">this tutorial</a> for stepper motor connection to an Arduino Nano. Use pins A0 - A3 to connecto to L298N driver.</p>
<h3>Keyboard</h3>
<p>Connect a <a rel="nofollow" href="https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32858826776.html">4X4 Arduino Keyboard</a> to pins D2-D9.</p>
<h3>OLED</h3>
<p>Connect a <a rel="nofollow" href="https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4001275132454.html">128X64 OLED screen</a> to 5V + GND + A4 (SDA) + A5 (SCL) pins.</p>
<h3>Uploading program</h3>
<p>Upload the code on the .ino file to your Arduino nano.</p>
<h3>3D printed parts</h3>
<p>Print the parts on FCStd or STL files (2 X support.FCStd/STL).</p>
<h3>Other components</h3>
<p>Buy two <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.com/Amico-4664-Groove-Wheel-Bearings/dp/B0056EVJX2?tag=tv-auto-20">22/8 mm Ball Bearing</a>.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.25</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex PLA                    </a>

                    Blue
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>PLA for all parts</p></div>
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Hula Mixer

Hula mixer for eppendorf and falcon tubes.

##Stepper connection
Follow [this tutorial](https://www.makerguides.com/l298n-stepper-motor-arduino-tutorial/) for stepper motor connection to an Arduino Nano. Use pins A0 - A3 to connecto to L298N driver.

##Keyboard
Connect a [4X4 Arduino Keyboard](https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32858826776.html) to pins D2-D9.

##OLED
Connect a [128X64 OLED screen](https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4001275132454.html) to 5V + GND + A4 (SDA) + A5 (SCL) pins.

##Uploading program
Upload the code on the .ino file to your Arduino nano.

##3D printed parts
Print the parts on FCStd or STL files (2 X support.FCStd/STL).

##Other components
Buy two [22/8 mm Ball Bearing](https://www.amazon.com/Amico-4664-Groove-Wheel-Bearings/dp/B0056EVJX2).

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