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<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>EN</p>
<p>Hello everybody,<br>
I made this great key for the Delonghi crema valve. My machine ECAM 23.420.SW.<br>
It also fits at some AEG and Siemens models.<br>
This key makes it possible to remove the crema valve and clean it regularly.</p>
<p>I would be very happy about a MAKE from you.</p>
<p>In order not to use up an unnecessary amount of filament for the key, I designed it as a plug-in attachment for a regular 1/4 &quot;socket-wrench-handle with locking ball (handle with slide piece and 1/4&quot; receptacle). This means that this plug-in attachment engages well and is secured against loss - see pictures.</p>
<p>Not all of you have such a socket wrench handle, I have provided the following additional drive types for you:</p>
<p>as hexagon:                     SW 5 + 6 (mm)<br>
as Pozidriv cross recess profile:       2PZ<br>
as a simple slot profile:           1 x 5.5 (mm)</p>
<p>but works good as a socket wrench:       1/4 &quot; (quarter inch)</p>
<p>Application:</p>
<p>Please be careful when installing and removing so that none of the small parts get lost.<br>
The crema valve consists of several parts (for me it consists of a plug, valve pin and spring).</p>
<ol><li>
<p>Remove the strainer from the brewing unit, which is usually fastened with a central<br>
Phillips screw.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Behind it is the piston of the brewing unit - the crema valve is installed here on the<br>
front. Put your printed key on the plug of the built-in crema valve and put it in<br>
snap into the 4 indentations.</p>
</li>
<li>Turn the key with very light pressure in both directions (clockwise / counter-clockwise)<br>
turn back and forth. The spring inside pushes the valve<br>
little by little (up towards your printed key).</li>
</ol><p>My print settings:<br>
Resolution 0.15 mm<br>
Print speed 40 mm / s<br>
Infill type: cube<br>
Infill: 20%<br>
Material: PLA or PETG<br>
Printing time approx. 15 min.</p>
<p>All mentioned brands / brand names / institutions / organizations / product names / products and their pictures (for example photos) are used exclusively for the description of the depicted model and its construction / operation / handling and, where appropriate, also as installation instruction / information or source.<br>
I have received no consideration for this from any of the trademark owners / institutions or organizations and this should also constitute &quot;no advertising&quot; for the brands / institutions or organizations listed here. </p>
<hr><p>DE</p>
<p>Hallo zusammen,<br>
ich habe diesen tollen Schl&#xFC;ssel f&#xFC;r das Cremaventil von Delonghi erstellt.<br>
Meine Maschine ECAM 23.420.SW.<br>
Es passt auch bei einigen AEG und Siemens Modellen.<br>
Damit ist es m&#xF6;glich das Cremaventil auszubauen und regelm&#xE4;&#xDF;ig zu reinigen.</p>
<p>&#xDC;ber ein MAKE von Euch w&#xFC;rde ich mich sehr freuen.</p>
<p>Um f&#xFC;r den Schl&#xFC;ssel nicht unn&#xF6;tig viel Filament zu verbrauchen, habe ich diesen als Steckaufsatz f&#xFC;r einen regul&#xE4;ren 1/4&quot; Steckschl&#xFC;sselgriff mit Rastkugel konzipiert (Griff mit Gleitst&#xFC;ck und 1/4&quot; Aufnahme). Somit rastet dieser Steckaufsatz gut ein und ist verliergesichert - siehe Bilder.</p>
<p>Da nicht alle von Euch so einen Steckschl&#xFC;sselgriff besitzen, habe ich die folgenden weiteren Antriebsformen bereitgestellt.</p>
<p>als Sechskant:              SW 5 + 6<br>
als Pozidriv Kreuzschlitzprofil:    2PZ<br>
als einfaches Schlitzprofil:    1 x 5,5</p>
<p>funktioniert aber gut als Steckschl&#xFC;ssel:     1/4&quot;   (quarter inch)</p>
<p>Anwendung: </p>
<p>Bitte seit beim Ein- und Ausbau vorsichtig, damit keines der kleinen Teile Euch verlohren geht. Das Cremaventil besteht aus mehreren Teilen (bei mir aus St&#xF6;psel, Ventilstift und Feder).</p>
<ol><li>
<p>Sieb der Br&#xFC;heinheit entfernen, meist ist dieses durch eine mittige<br>
Kreuzschlitzschraube befestigt.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Dahinter liegt der Kolben der Br&#xFC;heinheit - hier ist stirnseitig das Cremaventil<br>
eingebaut. Euren gedruckten Schl&#xFC;ssel am St&#xF6;psel des darin verbauten Cremaventils<br>
aufsetzen und in den 4 Vertiefungen einrasten.</p>
</li>
<li>Mit ganz leichtem Anpressdruck in beide Richtungen<br>
(Uhrzeigersin / gegen den Uhrzeigersinn) hin- und herdrehen.<br>
Die darin befindliche Feder schiebt das Ventil nach und nach heraus<br>
(nach oben in Richtung Eures gedruckten Schl&#xFC;ssels). </li>
</ol><p>Meine Einstellungen:<br>
Aufl&#xF6;sung 0,15 mm<br>
Druckgeschwindigkeit 40 mm/s<br>
Infill Typ: W&#xFC;rfel<br>
Infill: 20 %<br>
Werkstoff:  PLA oder PETG<br>
Druckdauer ca. 15 min.</p>
<p>Alle im Text erw&#xE4;hnten Marken/ Markennamen / Institutionen / Organisationen/  Produktnamen / Produkte und deren Abbildungen (zum Beispiel Fotos) dienen ausschlie&#xDF;lich zur Beschreibung des abgebildeten Models und dessen Bauweise / Funktionsweise / Handhabungsweise und gegebenenfalls auch als Montagehinweis / Informations- oder Quellenangabe.<br>
Ich habe daf&#xFC;r von keinem der Markeninhaber / Institutionen oder Organisationen eine Gegenleistung  erhalten und dies soll auch &quot;keine Werbung&quot; f&#xFC;r die evtl. hier aufgef&#xFC;hrten Marken / Institutionen oder Organisationen darstellen.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=other+PLA+or+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        other PLA or PETG                    </a>

                    other
</body></html>

key for crema valve Delonghi / AEG / Siemens in coffee machine

EN

Hello everybody,
I made this great key for the Delonghi crema valve. My machine ECAM 23.420.SW.
It also fits at some AEG and Siemens models.
This key makes it possible to remove the crema valve and clean it regularly.

I would be very happy about a MAKE from you.

In order not to use up an unnecessary amount of filament for the key, I designed it as a plug-in attachment for a regular 1/4 "socket-wrench-handle with locking ball (handle with slide piece and 1/4" receptacle). This means that this plug-in attachment engages well and is secured against loss - see pictures.


Not all of you have such a socket wrench handle, I have provided the following additional drive types for you:

as hexagon:    			    	SW 5 + 6 (mm)
as Pozidriv cross recess profile:     	2PZ
as a simple slot profile:     		1 x 5.5 (mm)

but works good as a socket wrench:    	 1/4 " (quarter inch)



Application:

Please be careful when installing and removing so that none of the small parts get lost.
The crema valve consists of several parts (for me it consists of a plug, valve pin and spring).

1. Remove the strainer from the brewing unit, which is usually fastened with a central 
     Phillips screw.

2. Behind it is the piston of the brewing unit - the crema valve is installed here on the   
    front. Put your printed key on the plug of the built-in crema valve and put it in
    snap into the 4 indentations.

3. Turn the key with very light pressure in both directions (clockwise / counter-clockwise)
    turn back and forth. The spring inside pushes the valve
    little by little (up towards your printed key).


 
My print settings:
Resolution 0.15 mm
Print speed 40 mm / s
Infill type: cube
Infill: 20%
Material: PLA or PETG
Printing time approx. 15 min.


All mentioned brands / brand names / institutions / organizations / product names / products and their pictures (for example photos) are used exclusively for the description of the depicted model and its construction / operation / handling and, where appropriate, also as installation instruction / information or source.
I have received no consideration for this from any of the trademark owners / institutions or organizations and this should also constitute "no advertising" for the brands / institutions or organizations listed here. 


------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

DE

Hallo zusammen,
ich habe diesen tollen Schlüssel für das Cremaventil von Delonghi erstellt.
Meine Maschine ECAM 23.420.SW.
Es passt auch bei einigen AEG und Siemens Modellen.
Damit ist es möglich das Cremaventil auszubauen und regelmäßig zu reinigen.

Über ein MAKE von Euch würde ich mich sehr freuen.

Um für den Schlüssel nicht unnötig viel Filament zu verbrauchen, habe ich diesen als Steckaufsatz für einen regulären 1/4" Steckschlüsselgriff mit Rastkugel konzipiert (Griff mit Gleitstück und 1/4" Aufnahme). Somit rastet dieser Steckaufsatz gut ein und ist verliergesichert - siehe Bilder.


Da nicht alle von Euch so einen Steckschlüsselgriff besitzen, habe ich die folgenden weiteren Antriebsformen bereitgestellt.

als Sechskant:   			SW 5 + 6 
als Pozidriv Kreuzschlitzprofil: 	2PZ 
als einfaches Schlitzprofil: 	1 x 5,5

funktioniert aber gut als Steckschlüssel:     1/4"   (quarter inch)



Anwendung: 

Bitte seit beim Ein- und Ausbau vorsichtig, damit keines der kleinen Teile Euch verlohren geht. Das Cremaventil besteht aus mehreren Teilen (bei mir aus Stöpsel, Ventilstift und Feder).

1. Sieb der Brüheinheit entfernen, meist ist dieses durch eine mittige 
    Kreuzschlitzschraube befestigt.

2. Dahinter liegt der Kolben der Brüheinheit - hier ist stirnseitig das Cremaventil 
    eingebaut. Euren gedruckten Schlüssel am Stöpsel des darin verbauten Cremaventils 
    aufsetzen und in den 4 Vertiefungen einrasten.

3. Mit ganz leichtem Anpressdruck in beide Richtungen 
    (Uhrzeigersin / gegen den Uhrzeigersinn) hin- und herdrehen. 
    Die darin befindliche Feder schiebt das Ventil nach und nach heraus 
    (nach oben in Richtung Eures gedruckten Schlüssels). 


 
Meine Einstellungen:
Auflösung 0,15 mm
Druckgeschwindigkeit 40 mm/s
Infill Typ: Würfel 
Infill: 20 % 
Werkstoff:  PLA oder PETG
Druckdauer ca. 15 min.


Alle im Text erwähnten Marken/ Markennamen / Institutionen / Organisationen/  Produktnamen / Produkte und deren Abbildungen (zum Beispiel Fotos) dienen ausschließlich zur Beschreibung des abgebildeten Models und dessen Bauweise / Funktionsweise / Handhabungsweise und gegebenenfalls auch als Montagehinweis / Informations- oder Quellenangabe.
Ich habe dafür von keinem der Markeninhaber / Institutionen oder Organisationen eine Gegenleistung  erhalten und dies soll auch "keine Werbung" für die evtl. hier aufgeführten Marken / Institutionen oder Organisationen darstellen.



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>The Take-up Crank Slide was broken on my Husqvarna 2000 Model 6440 so I made a replacement slide. The slide utilizes the original brass bearing, which is inserted into the part and then the plastic is crimped down to hold it in place (preferably after applying some heat), as well as the original spring and &quot;washer&quot;, to ensure tight tolerances.</p>
<p>It should work fine to print without any support (given sufficient cooling) and preferably with a durable plastic like PET-G or ABS.</p>
<p>Instructions can be found at (In Swedish): <a rel="nofollow" href="https://sv.wikibooks.org/wiki/Reparationsboken/Husqvarna_symaskiner/Byte_av_sliden">https://sv.wikibooks.org/wiki/Reparationsboken/Husqvarna_symaskiner/Byte_av_sliden</a></p>
<p>I also posted the Rhino (V.6) .3dm file and a .stp file and these allow you to modify the part as required.</p></div>
</body></html>

Replacement Slide - Husqvarna Sewing Machine

The Take-up Crank Slide was broken on my Husqvarna 2000 Model 6440 so I made a replacement slide. The slide utilizes the original brass bearing, which is inserted into the part and then the plastic is crimped down to hold it in place (preferably after applying some heat), as well as the original spring and "washer", to ensure tight tolerances.

It should work fine to print without any support (given sufficient cooling) and preferably with a durable plastic like PET-G or ABS.

Instructions can be found at (In Swedish): https://sv.wikibooks.org/wiki/Reparationsboken/Husqvarna_symaskiner/Byte_av_sliden

I also posted the Rhino (V.6) .3dm file and a .stp file and these allow you to modify the part as required.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>My attempting to organize tooling to a small cabinet.</p>
<p>added a storage adapter for my long straight shank 8 and 10 mm drills</p>
<p>You need 25 to 30mm long cap head bolts for mounting. They are in tension to help keep the the print layers together from the weight of the drills.<br>
I used blind M3 nutserts or rivnuts to mount on the side of my tooling cabinet. see cat 40 tool holder <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4634374">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4634374</a> . The holes are 2.8mm for forming the M3 threads. Drill the holes to size first to get the correct amount of plastic then form the threads using the bolt.</p>
<p>Designed in fusion 360 printed on a CR10S pro with a custom direct dive mod.<br>
Have fun -Peter</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR10S PRO</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>variable</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=ESUN+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        ESUN PETG                    </a>

                    white
</body></html>

MT3 Drill holder & 1/2" reduced shank

My attempting to organize tooling to a small cabinet.

added a storage adapter for my long straight shank 8 and 10 mm drills

You need 25 to 30mm long cap head bolts for mounting. They are in tension to help keep the the print layers together from the weight of the drills.
I used blind M3 nutserts or rivnuts to mount on the side of my tooling cabinet. see cat 40 tool holder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4634374 . The holes are 2.8mm for forming the M3 threads. Drill the holes to size first to get the correct amount of plastic then form the threads using the bolt.

Designed in fusion 360 printed on a CR10S pro with a custom direct dive mod.
Have fun -Peter


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>The enclosure that I am using is a little tight and this is going to help save some space. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Centroid Acorn Mount with relay

The enclosure that I am using is a little tight and this is going to help save some space. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Power button p/n DC64-02389A for washing machines Samsung models WF0508NZW (WF0508NZW/YLD, WF0508NZW/YLP), WF-M509NZW (WFM509NZW/YLP), WF0500NZW (WF0500NZW/EWLP0, WF0500NZW/YLD)</p>
<p>After this button broke a third time, I decided that I needed to make a new one.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=FDPlast+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        FDPlast PETG                    </a>

                    White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>You can print with any filament and any color. I made &#x430;from green PETG. It was just too lazy to change the filament.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/35/f0/6a/9d/a0/photo_2020-11-01_14-45-11.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>The original one, which worked for many years, and was glued 3 times.</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/93/fd/c4/63/40/photo_2020-11-01_14-48-09.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>This is a new button, looks stylish and shiny</strong></p>
</body></html>

Power button dc64-02389a for Samsung washing machines

Power button p/n DC64-02389A for washing machines Samsung models WF0508NZW (WF0508NZW/YLD, WF0508NZW/YLP), WF-M509NZW (WFM509NZW/YLP), WF0500NZW (WF0500NZW/EWLP0, WF0500NZW/YLD)

After this button broke a third time, I decided that I needed to make a new one.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Spur gear with 36T make infill 80% and above for structural rigidity.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2DxjZlB?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">i3 MK2S</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>80</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=any+any&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        any any                    </a>

                    any
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Have a good build</p></div>
</body></html>

Spur Gear 36T

Spur gear with 36T make infill 80% and above for structural rigidity.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just my Rework of  DIY_Machines   Excellent , Easy 3D Printable CNC Drawing Machine</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/5DDamrDog6M">https://youtu.be/5DDamrDog6M</a></p>
<p>Be sure to watch  DIY_Machines  Excellent easy to understand VIDEO&apos;S </p>
<p>Video guide for assembly instructions here:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/XYqx5wg4oLU">https://youtu.be/XYqx5wg4oLU</a></p>
<p>Video detailing the software side of things:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/8scKLHz77Lg">https://youtu.be/8scKLHz77Lg</a></p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4537916">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4537916</a></p>
<p>Edit: 11-6-2020</p>
<p>Added firmware for SKR 1.3 and TFT35 2.0</p>
<p>Modifications</p>
<ul><li>PenSlider    Reworked for 55mm  Linear rail, Enlarged to fit 15mm paint markers</li>
<li>FingerDial   Reworked to fit M3 hex head bolt</li>
<li>Y-Pen-End  Reworked to fit Linear rail</li>
<li>BaseEnd-Idle     Reworked to make it  Adjustable , added 4mm to base (for more pen height)</li>
<li>BaseEnd-Powered  Reworked to fit stepper motor , added 4mm to base (for more pen height)</li>
<li>RaftMount  Added holes to bolt switches and clamp LM8LUU bearings</li>
<li>ServoArm enlarged servo hole slightly and slightly lengthen </li>
</ul><p>Updated Nov 2, 2020</p>
<ul><li>Added Y-Stepper-Housing  for a  28BYJ-48 step motor with Limit switch  (optional for<br>
working with Marlin Firmware and Inkscape plugins that use stepper z axis for pen)</li>
</ul><p>Update: Nov-3-2020<br>
Uploaded Control box files<br>
Uploaded SKR 1.3 firmware, firmware is not setup yet as my machine is being built. I bench tested the steppers and servo.  I uploaded for those who may want them to improve them. as soon as my machine is running I will update the firmware to those settings</p>
<p>control box stl files is for BTT TFT35 2.1 and 2.0  ver 2.0 screen is the best choice with easy touch screen response. the older 1.2 touch screen is not as responsive to touch, seems you have to press harder on the screen.</p>
<p>Edit: Nov-4-2020<br>
re uploaded some parts that needed fixing<br>
added TFT cover with estop</p>
<p>Edit: 11-7-2020<br>
Added a Vinyl Cutter Blade Holder (mounts like a pen<br>
15pcs 30 45 60 Degree Roland Cricut Plotter Cutter Metal Blade + Holder<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32724594660.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32724594660.html</a></p>
<p>Added Optional Y-Pen-End-LaserPointerMount (handy for jogging pen to location to print then zero X andY) Laser pointer is tip of pen when down.<br>
5V 650nm 5mW 6mm Red Dot Laser Head<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001112479099.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001112479099.html</a></p>
<p>Added some Gauges for setting pen, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 7mm</p>
<p>Edit: 11-10-2020<br>
Updated VinylCutterBladeMount  parts (after receiving Vinyl Cutter Blade Mount had to resize to fit)</p>
<p>Todo List:</p>
<p>ADD Laser cutter Module</p>
<p>..  list new hardware parts used</p>
<p>Optional choice alternative to Grbl:</p>
<p>I changed to using 3d printer board  and Marlin 2.0 for offline running. also using   BTT TFT35 v1.2 and TFT35 v 2.0, with BlomsD excellent Custom BTT TFT Firmware</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/BlomsD/MPCNC-TFT35-V2.0">https://github.com/BlomsD/MPCNC-TFT35-V2.0</a><br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://forum.v1engineering.com/t/mpcnc-build-complete-until-my-next-good-idea/11936">https://forum.v1engineering.com/t/mpcnc-build-complete-until-my-next-good-idea/11936</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Custom Made Mega CoreXY</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=StrongHero+3D+PetG+Carbon+Fiber+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        StrongHero 3D PetG Carbon Fiber                     </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Easy 3D Printable CNC Drawing Machine (rework)

Just my Rework of  DIY_Machines   Excellent , Easy 3D Printable CNC Drawing Machine

https://youtu.be/5DDamrDog6M

Be sure to watch  DIY_Machines  Excellent easy to understand VIDEO'S 

 Video guide for assembly instructions here:
https://youtu.be/XYqx5wg4oLU

Video detailing the software side of things:
https://youtu.be/8scKLHz77Lg

 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4537916


Edit: 11-6-2020

Added firmware for SKR 1.3 and TFT35 2.0

Modifications

* PenSlider    Reworked for 55mm  Linear rail, Enlarged to fit 15mm paint markers
* FingerDial   Reworked to fit M3 hex head bolt
* Y-Pen-End  Reworked to fit Linear rail
* BaseEnd-Idle     Reworked to make it  Adjustable , added 4mm to base (for more pen height)
* BaseEnd-Powered  Reworked to fit stepper motor , added 4mm to base (for more pen height)
* RaftMount  Added holes to bolt switches and clamp LM8LUU bearings
* ServoArm enlarged servo hole slightly and slightly lengthen 

Updated Nov 2, 2020

* Added Y-Stepper-Housing  for a  28BYJ-48 step motor with Limit switch  (optional for 
   working with Marlin Firmware and Inkscape plugins that use stepper z axis for pen)

Update: Nov-3-2020
Uploaded Control box files
Uploaded SKR 1.3 firmware, firmware is not setup yet as my machine is being built. I bench tested the steppers and servo.  I uploaded for those who may want them to improve them. as soon as my machine is running I will update the firmware to those settings

control box stl files is for BTT TFT35 2.1 and 2.0  ver 2.0 screen is the best choice with easy touch screen response. the older 1.2 touch screen is not as responsive to touch, seems you have to press harder on the screen.

Edit: Nov-4-2020
re uploaded some parts that needed fixing
added TFT cover with estop

Edit: 11-7-2020
Added a Vinyl Cutter Blade Holder (mounts like a pen
         15pcs 30 45 60 Degree Roland Cricut Plotter Cutter Metal Blade + Holder
         https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32724594660.html

Added Optional Y-Pen-End-LaserPointerMount (handy for jogging pen to location to print then zero X andY) Laser pointer is tip of pen when down.
      5V 650nm 5mW 6mm Red Dot Laser Head
   https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001112479099.html

Added some Gauges for setting pen, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 7mm

Edit: 11-10-2020
Updated VinylCutterBladeMount  parts (after receiving Vinyl Cutter Blade Mount had to resize to fit)

Todo List:

ADD Laser cutter Module

..  list new hardware parts used

Optional choice alternative to Grbl:

I changed to using 3d printer board  and Marlin 2.0 for offline running. also using   BTT TFT35 v1.2 and TFT35 v 2.0, with BlomsD excellent Custom BTT TFT Firmware

https://github.com/BlomsD/MPCNC-TFT35-V2.0
https://forum.v1engineering.com/t/mpcnc-build-complete-until-my-next-good-idea/11936

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Here are the CAD files for the Millenium Minimill (WIP) based on the openbuilds minimill.<br>
Please note these are not STLs and the design is not final and or may be missing some components such as bearings and screws as well as some parts being unfinished.</p>
<p>GitHub link : <a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/MilleniumMills/Millenium-Minimill/tree/main">https://github.com/MilleniumMills/Millenium-Minimill/tree/main</a></p>
<p>We recommend that if you&apos;re using an FDM printer that you use PLA or ABS as PETG or NYLON are just not stiff enough despite their strength.</p>
<p>If using an SLA machine (recommended) please use a suitable resin. Siraya tech blu and Esun hard tough are good starts.</p>
<p>If you would like to follow along with the development of this product please follow us on Reddit @ r/MilleniumMachines where you can find links to our website, Patreon page and other social media outlets.</p></div>
</body></html>

Millenium Minimill (WIP)

Here are the CAD files for the Millenium Minimill (WIP) based on the openbuilds minimill.
Please note these are not STLs and the design is not final and or may be missing some components such as bearings and screws as well as some parts being unfinished.

GitHub link : https://github.com/MilleniumMills/Millenium-Minimill/tree/main

We recommend that if you're using an FDM printer that you use PLA or ABS as PETG or NYLON are just not stiff enough despite their strength.

If using an SLA machine (recommended) please use a suitable resin. Siraya tech blu and Esun hard tough are good starts.

If you would like to follow along with the development of this product please follow us on Reddit @ r/MilleniumMachines where you can find links to our website, Patreon page and other social media outlets.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Originally designed by <a rel="nofollow" href="/kannya/designs">kannya</a></p>
<p>Modified to work with the Sainsmart ProverXL 4030 (still needs to be tested, waiting on a friend to print for me)</p>
<p>Please ignore the print settings for this file as they will be adjusted as needed. I do not have a 3d printer at the moment. </p></div>
</body></html>

ProverXL 4030 Dust Shoe (TEST)

Originally designed by [kannya](https://www.thingiverse.com/kannya/designs)

Modified to work with the Sainsmart ProverXL 4030 (still needs to be tested, waiting on a friend to print for me)

Please ignore the print settings for this file as they will be adjusted as needed. I do not have a 3d printer at the moment. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>by Michael Schwaiger</p>
<p>VERSION FOR MGN15H LINEAR RAILS<br><strong> STIFFER -  BETTER - HARDER </strong></p>
<p>Add these parts to your beloved Workbee CNC to stiffen the X axis on your screw driven machine to make it into a WORKBEAST CNC by changing out the plastic wheels to a milled aluminium plate and linear rails. This helps to reduce chatter while cutting and is a great recipe to succeed in milling aluminium, hardwood and plastic materials.</p>
<p>See results on a screw driven 750x500mm Workbee CNC with 1,5kW 80mm spindle here (on smaller 12mm rails to be fair):</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1prhYkhnZA">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1prhYkhnZA</a></p>
<p><strong> YOU WILL NEED: </strong></p>
<ul><li>milled 10mm aluminium plate, dimensions: 130x105x10mm</li>
<li>16x M3x10 to attach aluminium plate to truck</li>
<li>2x MGN-15H linear rails 500mm or bigger acording to size of you machine with 2 trucks each</li>
<li>24x T-Slot nut and 24x M3x10 cap head screw <em>per meter linear rail</em> (depending on machine size)  for mounting linear rails</li>
<li>1x 3D printed spacer block</li>
<li>4x M3x20 cap head screw and 4x M3 nylon locking nut for attaching the spacer block to aluminium plate</li>
<li>4x M5x35 cap head screw for attaching delrin nut to aluminium plate through spacer</li>
</ul><p><strong> Affiliatelinks: </strong></p>
<p>Affiliatelinks to parts used, I ordered my parts here:</p>
<p>500mm, 750mm oder bigger acording to your machine size MGN-15H Rails, you need to order a second truck to each rail!<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d7sii2n">https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d7sii2n</a></p>
<p>T-Nuts (20S-M3)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d9ESdeL">https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d9ESdeL</a></p>
<p>Get your workbee machine here:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d8jbIG7">https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d8jbIG7</a></p>
<p>Spindlemotor and VFD used in Video:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ArwAxP">https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ArwAxP</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom how-to-build">How to build</h3>
<div><p>Attach linear rails to extrusion with T-nuts and M3x10 screws.</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/de/f0/e3/d3/52/Screenshot_2020-10-28_194301.png"></p>
                    <div><p>Attach spacer block to aluminium plate with M3x15 screws</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/ee/28/e5/04/ba/Screenshot_2020-10-28_203725.png"></p>
                    <div><p>Attach aluminium plates to trucks with M3x10 screws</p></div>
                <div><p>Attach delrin nut to aluminium plate with M5x35 screws</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/78/a7/b0/98/df/Screenshot_2020-10-28_200943.png"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/9c/7e/5d/bb/60/Screenshot_2020-10-28_201600.png"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/59/5f/b9/53/71/rT8HLEC.gif"></p>
</body></html>

Workbee CNC X-Axis upgrade Workbeast CNC Mod *MGN15H*

by Michael Schwaiger

VERSION FOR MGN15H LINEAR RAILS
  ** STIFFER -  BETTER - HARDER **

Add these parts to your beloved Workbee CNC to stiffen the X axis on your screw driven machine to make it into a WORKBEAST CNC by changing out the plastic wheels to a milled aluminium plate and linear rails. This helps to reduce chatter while cutting and is a great recipe to succeed in milling aluminium, hardwood and plastic materials.

See results on a screw driven 750x500mm Workbee CNC with 1,5kW 80mm spindle here (on smaller 12mm rails to be fair):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1prhYkhnZA

** YOU WILL NEED: **

-  milled 10mm aluminium plate, dimensions: 130x105x10mm
-  16x M3x10 to attach aluminium plate to truck
-  2x MGN-15H linear rails 500mm or bigger acording to size of you machine with 2 trucks each
-  24x T-Slot nut and 24x M3x10 cap head screw *per meter linear rail* (depending on machine size)  for mounting linear rails
-  1x 3D printed spacer block
-  4x M3x20 cap head screw and 4x M3 nylon locking nut for attaching the spacer block to aluminium plate
-  4x M5x35 cap head screw for attaching delrin nut to aluminium plate through spacer


** Affiliatelinks: **

Affiliatelinks to parts used, I ordered my parts here:

500mm, 750mm oder bigger acording to your machine size MGN-15H Rails, you need to order a second truck to each rail!
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d7sii2n

T-Nuts (20S-M3)
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d9ESdeL

Get your workbee machine here:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_d8jbIG7

Spindlemotor and VFD used in Video:
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_ArwAxP


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Mount for 52mm spindle for CNC 3018 pro. Inspired by other adapters, but my own work, done in OpenSCAD. Features dual Z-endstops and utility holder.</p>
<p>Further customizable directly in OpenSCAD.</p>
<p>Since I printed my version I made the endstops optional and the endstop side selectable. Hence the &quot;WIP&quot; status. Plus I haven&apos;t mounted it on my 3018 pro yet. Still waiting for parts. <strong> I&apos;ll add a picture of the assembled unit once everything is ready.</strong></p>
<p>Additional planned z-axis upgrades:</p>
<ul><li>add bushing to z-axis lead screw</li>
<li>dual shaft z-axis stepper to attach a handwheel</li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Noname+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Noname PLA                    </a>

                    Green
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>4 top layers, 4 bottoms layers, 4 perimeters (walls).<br>
Walls are more important than infill percentage for strength.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<div><p>I made it conform to the 52mm mount of the holder that was included with the spindle. I don&apos;t know if this makes a difference rigidity-wise, but if I design that holder from scratch - why not?</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/b6/f9/ee/9b/d0/IMG_20201025_223753.jpg"></p>
                    <div><p>I filed down the fixed part of the anti-backlash nut from its original 22mm diameter to ~18mm flats. This way where is more plastic between the linear guides and the anti-backlash nut.</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/24/90/9f/f2/e6/IMG_20201025_223709.jpg"></p>
                    <div><p>I also incorporated end switches. Since I designed this holder from scratch it&apos;s not more effort. At this point I&apos;d add a cable channel to manage the cables to the endstops better.</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/1a/31/b5/23/c3/IMG_20201025_223728.jpg"></p>
                    <div><p>Top view of the adapter: the screws that hold the anti-backlash nut are counter-sunk into the plastic so as to not lose any z-travel.</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/3b/6e/b8/a7/88/IMG_20201025_223721.jpg"></p>
</body></html>

CNC 3018 Pro 52mm Adapter w/ endstops and utility attachment (dial indicator) Customizable OpenSCAD

Mount for 52mm spindle for CNC 3018 pro. Inspired by other adapters, but my own work, done in OpenSCAD. Features dual Z-endstops and utility holder.

Further customizable directly in OpenSCAD.

Since I printed my version I made the endstops optional and the endstop side selectable. Hence the "WIP" status. Plus I haven't mounted it on my 3018 pro yet. Still waiting for parts. ** I'll add a picture of the assembled unit once everything is ready.**

Additional planned z-axis upgrades:

- add bushing to z-axis lead screw
- dual shaft z-axis stepper to attach a handwheel


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Liked the chain captain_3d remixed, but thought it would be easier to print if only each 5th link or so had holes for the zip ties.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Herz+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Herz PLA                    </a>

                    
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Printed with leftover filament pieces and 70mm/s</p></div>
</body></html>

Cable Drag Chain no holes

Liked the chain captain_3d remixed, but thought it would be easier to print if only each 5th link or so had holes for the zip ties.

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