The 3D GoPro Lens Hood eliminates lens flare and the shadows from the quadcopter propellers; it also protects the camera in case it falls to the ground.

GoPro Lens Hood for Quadcopters | All3DP

How Makerbot helped North Drinkware design and develop the Oregon Pint, a beer glass with a replica Mount Hood embedded at the bottom.

Oregon Pint was Prototyped on a Makerbot Replicator | All3DP

3D printer with Wi-Fi coming from Zortrax, a well-known Polish manufacturer. Based on the award-winning Zortrax M200, the M200 Plus boasts wireless connectivity and a brand new touchscreen. The design draws in spades from its predecessor, but a quick glance under the hood shows it is much more than just a slightly modernized M200. Made for 3D […]

Zortrax M200 Plus: Professional Wi-Fi 3D Printer | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div>&quot;Cultists swear allegiance to dark powers such as elemental princes, demon lords, or Archdevils. Most conceal their loyalties to avoid being ostracized, imprisoned, or executed for their beliefs. Unlike evil acolytes, Cultists often show signs of insanity in their beliefs and practices.&quot;
Remix function is not working. 
CREDIT:
I used this model by Valandar for the face: thingiverse.com/thing:3172870
And the skull from nastyninjabear for the end of the dagger: thingiverse.com/thing:3526052</div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
Supports: 
 <div>Yes</div>

</body></html>

Cloaked Cultist

"Cultists swear allegiance to dark powers such as elemental princes, demon lords, or Archdevils. Most conceal their loyalties to avoid being ostracized, imprisoned, or executed for their beliefs. Unlike evil acolytes, Cultists often show signs of insanity in their beliefs and practices."

Remix function is not working.
CREDIT:

I used this model by Valandar for the face: thingiverse.com/thing:3172870

And the skull from nastyninjabear for the end of the dagger: thingiverse.com/thing:3526052

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div>A replacement for a certain standee in gloomhaven.</div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
Printer Brand: 
 <div>Prusa</div>
 
 Printer: 
 <div>I3 MK3S</div>
 
 Rafts: 
 <div>No</div>
 
 Supports: 
 <div>Yes</div>
 
 Resolution: 
 <div>0.05</div>
 
 Infill: 
 <div>25%</div>
 
 Filament: 
 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
 Generic PLA </a>

 Transparent (no color)
</body></html>

Gloomhaven Aesther Swordsman

A replacement for a certain standee in gloomhaven.


Red hood - Iron Inquisitor - 32mm Scale

This is a Hood made from 2 mm Acrylic sheet with the printed parts. 
The hood sits on the top surface and locates on the recessed corners of the top edges on the Ultimaker, using two small magnets on the front to prevent tipping. Designed to sit within the top edge allowing my dovetail mounting system to still be used on the top edges. 
The Hood overhangs the back slightly to allow the cable and bowden tube access and minimise drafts and heat loss, it is also suitable for those with feeders on both sides. 
The top hinges open to allow easy access and can be positioned in one of several locations. 
At the moment I am using Duct tape to hinge the 3 lid pieces together as this gives full flexibility and I have not yet decided on a camera mount or the type of knob etc for the lid.

2mm thick acrylic sheet can be obtained from a local DIY centre and can be easily scored and snapped with a suitable tool and a straight edge. There was no machining of the acrylic sheets other than drilling the mounting holes, and a little filing to finish. 
The mounting holes on the plastic parts were tapped M3.

Update 29th April 2017 
Parts added that can be used to make the hood from 3mm sheet. 
these all have the suffex of 3mmA. 
The parts given all make one side , (the left side as you look at it) you will need to mirror the two pieces that make the bottom front corner, the bottom back corner and the top back corner. 
I have not built them to check as I don&apos;t have 3mm sheet. 
You will also need to adjust the width of the back piece, the top and the other pieces that cross from the two sides, (this should be by 2mm from the dimensions given)

UM2 Hood (Simple to make)

This is a Hood made from 2 mm Acrylic sheet with the printed parts.
The hood sits on the top surface and locates on the recessed corners of the top edges on the Ultimaker, using two small magnets on the front to prevent tipping. Designed to sit within the top edge allowing my dovetail mounting system to still be used on the top edges.
The Hood overhangs the back slightly to allow the cable and bowden tube access and minimise drafts and heat loss, it is also suitable for those with feeders on both sides.
The top hinges open to allow easy access and can be positioned in one of several locations.
At the moment I am using Duct tape to hinge the 3 lid pieces together as this gives full flexibility and I have not yet decided on a camera mount or the type of knob etc for the lid.

2mm thick acrylic sheet can be obtained from a local DIY centre and can be easily scored and snapped with a suitable tool and a straight edge. There was no machining of the acrylic sheets other than drilling the mounting holes, and a little filing to finish.
The mounting holes on the plastic parts were tapped M3.

Update 29th April 2017
Parts added that can be used to make the hood from 3mm sheet.
these all have the suffex of 3mmA. 
The parts given all make one side , (the left side as you look at it) you will need to mirror the two pieces that make the bottom front corner, the bottom back corner and the top back corner.
I have not built them to check as I don't have 3mm sheet.
You will also need to adjust the width of the back piece, the top and the other pieces that cross from the two sides, (this should be by 2mm from the dimensions given)


When you want to hang your pippette inside fume hood, this hanger is very usefule. It&apos;s simple and removable but strong enough to hold any kind of pippette.

Pippette Hanger

When you want to hang your pippette inside fume hood, this hanger is very usefule. It's simple and removable but strong enough to hold any kind of pippette.


Many people (mostly in the BeNeLux) own a Gazelle bicycle with a chain cover as you see on the picture. This rear piece tends to break or disappear during the bicycles lifetime. Unfortunately Gazelle doesn&apos;t offer this part as a spare. Printing your own is then the solution. This cover fits on my bicycle, but it can still be improved.

Gazelle chain protector rear cover

Many people (mostly in the BeNeLux) own a Gazelle bicycle with a chain cover as you see on the picture. This rear piece tends to break or disappear during the bicycles lifetime. Unfortunately Gazelle doesn't offer this part as a spare. Printing your own is then the solution. This cover fits on my bicycle, but it can still be improved.


Knob for cooker hood extractor fan

Extractor Fan Knob

I use this to block out an annoying effect of the shadow of the propellers of my drone. 
The hood is not visible in the picture and fits the field of view exactly.

Gopro Hero 4 Lens Hood

I use this to block out an annoying effect of the shadow of the propellers of my drone. 
The hood is not visible in the picture and fits the field of view exactly.


I do not see this as a popular item. I have posted this for inspiration to fix and create things in an effort to reuse instead of replace.&#xA0; Remove old plastic from metal, Insert Hood Part over the metal. Insert Hood pins into hole until the metal groove matches with the pin holes. 

You can either glue, and or melt pins in place.Largest metal square 5.85mm 0.23in wide

Ford Hood Release Handle

I do not see this as a popular item. I have posted this for inspiration to fix and create things in an effort to reuse instead of replace. Remove old plastic from metal, Insert Hood Part over the metal. Insert Hood pins into hole until the metal groove matches with the pin holes. 

You can either glue, and or melt pins in place.Largest metal square 5.85mm 0.23in wide


Just print the part and replace it with the broken one. You should also use some grease to make the bowden at the coupling and at the lock going easier. Updated STL, moved round hole more to the center and added some mm lengh to make it stiffer.&#xFEFF;

Bowden Repair coupling for BMW 1 Series bonnet opener

Just print the part and replace it with the broken one.You should also use some grease to make the bowden at the coupling and at the lock going easier.Updated STL, moved round hole more to the center and added some mm lengh to make it stiffer.﻿


This enclosure is designed to work with an activated carbon air filter plus an exhaust vent with activated carbon and a nanoparticulate filter (better than HEPA). Put a thermometer inside the build chamber and adjust the amount of activated carbon filtration media to adjust the temperature inside the build chamber. The more filtration media, the less exhaust airflow, the higher the temperature. For ABS prints that don&apos;t crack, curl, nor warp, the temperature inside the build chamber should be 100 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. A free downloadable 3d printed activated carbon air filter plus an exhaust vent with activated carbon and a nanoparticulate filter are available from <a href="http://www.3dprintfilemarket.com" rel="external">http://www.3dprintfilemarket.com</a> . Unlike other designs that use expensive cartridges that cost $40 per month to operate, this design uses affordable activated carbon granules and surgical masks that cost only pennies per month of operation. Other enclosure designs also require expensive laser cutters. This design is entirely 3d printed and doesn&apos;t require any laser cutting. Enjoy! Instructions Note: each numbered block of instructions match with a numbered illustration in the images section. 1. Go to the hardware store and have them cut some 2 mm acrylic panels for you; Qty 2 x 200 mm x 320 mm for front and back of hood, Qty 2 x 200 mm x 328 mm for sides of hood, Qty 1 x 320 mm x 328 mm for top of hood, and Qty 1 x 316 mm x 320 mm for the removable front window. On the back of hood 2 mm acrylic panel, on the bottom of the panel, measure 50 mm from the left edge and cut a 40 mm wide x 80 mm tall hole through the panel. On this same panel, on the top of the panel, measure 80 mm from the left edge and 15 mm from the top edge for the position of the 40 mm fan. Mark 4 points that are the corners of a square that is 32 mm on each side. Using a 7/64 inch drill bit, drill out the 4 marked points. In the center of these 4 holes, use a compass to draw a circle with a 25 mm diameter. Using your smallest drill bit, drill all along the circumference. Then, using a small electric saw or a very sharp hobby knife, cut out this 25 mm diameter hole. &#xA0; &#xA0; 2. Hold 2 acrylic panels and a corner fastener together and mark all the points to drill on the acrylic panels in order to match with the corner fasteners. Do this for all the panels and corner fasteners. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill everywhere that you&apos;ve marked. Use a needdle nose plier and an adjustable wrench to bolt all the acrylic panels to the corner fasteners. Seal the edges with silicone caulk. &#xA0; &#xA0; 3. Attach panel hangers and panel clip to your Ultimaker. &#xA0; &#xA0; 4. On top of removable front window panel, mark a point 15 mm from the top and 15 mm from the left. Mark another point 15 mm from the top and 15 mm from the right. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill through these marks. Screw in 2 bolts into these holes but do not allow the bolt ends to go all the way through and protrude from the panel. &#xA0; &#xA0; 5. Slip the removable front window panel into the bottom panel clip on your Ultimaker. Mark where you would have to drill in order for the panel to hang on the two panel hangers attached to your Ultimaker. Use a 5/16 inch drill bit to drill through these marks. At least 6 mm below these holes, use a compass to draw a 22 mm diameter circle. Using your smallest drill bit, drill many holes all along the circumference of this circle. Use a hobby knife or saw to cut out this circle. Cut an 8 mm wide channel from the top of this circle to the 5/16 inch hole you drilled right above this circle.&#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; HINTS; If the bolts are too tight, oil them with vegetable oil before screwing them in. If the panel hangers and panel clips don&apos;t fit, soften them with a heat gun and make them fit. These pieces are a tight fit on purpose. If the pieces are looser, then they will shake apart while the Ultimaker is printing. &#xA0; If the removable front panel window doesn&apos;t fit on the panel hangers, do not use a bigger drill bit. Doing so will cause the panel to rattle while the Ultimaker is printing. Just insert your 5/16 inch drill bit and wiggle it around while drilling for a minute or two. This will loosen it enough to fit, but not too loose so that it rattles. &#xA0; &#xA0; Print these pieces in ABS. To prevent cracking, warping and curling while printing these pieces before you&apos;ve built your enclosure, create a temporary enclosure with plastic wrap and electrical tape. &#xA0; &#xA0; All pieces are printed without supports exept for UltimakerCase3.stl . Print UltimakerCase3.stl with supports. Remove support structures with a needle nose plier before use. Update 6/27/14 The hood on top of the Ultimaker was a bit wobbly, so I added reinforcements to the seams between the front and back pieces with the side pieces of the hood. The updated build plate is UM2FullPlateA2.stl . Be sure to glue these reinforcements to the acrylic plates.

Ultimaker 2 Enclosure With Air Filter For Perfect ABS Prints

This enclosure is designed to work with an activated carbon air filter plus an exhaust vent with activated carbon and a nanoparticulate filter (better than HEPA). Put a thermometer inside the build chamber and adjust the amount of activated carbon filtration media to adjust the temperature inside the build chamber. The more filtration media, the less exhaust airflow, the higher the temperature. For ABS prints that don't crack, curl, nor warp, the temperature inside the build chamber should be 100 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. A free downloadable 3d printed activated carbon air filter plus an exhaust vent with activated carbon and a nanoparticulate filter are available from http://www.3dprintfilemarket.com . Unlike other designs that use expensive cartridges that cost $40 per month to operate, this design uses affordable activated carbon granules and surgical masks that cost only pennies per month of operation. Other enclosure designs also require expensive laser cutters. This design is entirely 3d printed and doesn't require any laser cutting. Enjoy! InstructionsNote: each numbered block of instructions match with a numbered illustration in the images section. 1. Go to the hardware store and have them cut some 2 mm acrylic panels for you; Qty 2 x 200 mm x 320 mm for front and back of hood, Qty 2 x 200 mm x 328 mm for sides of hood, Qty 1 x 320 mm x 328 mm for top of hood, and Qty 1 x 316 mm x 320 mm for the removable front window. On the back of hood 2 mm acrylic panel, on the bottom of the panel, measure 50 mm from the left edge and cut a 40 mm wide x 80 mm tall hole through the panel. On this same panel, on the top of the panel, measure 80 mm from the left edge and 15 mm from the top edge for the position of the 40 mm fan. Mark 4 points that are the corners of a square that is 32 mm on each side. Using a 7/64 inch drill bit, drill out the 4 marked points. In the center of these 4 holes, use a compass to draw a circle with a 25 mm diameter. Using your smallest drill bit, drill all along the circumference. Then, using a small electric saw or a very sharp hobby knife, cut out this 25 mm diameter hole.   2. Hold 2 acrylic panels and a corner fastener together and mark all the points to drill on the acrylic panels in order to match with the corner fasteners. Do this for all the panels and corner fasteners. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill everywhere that you've marked. Use a needdle nose plier and an adjustable wrench to bolt all the acrylic panels to the corner fasteners. Seal the edges with silicone caulk.   3. Attach panel hangers and panel clip to your Ultimaker.   4. On top of removable front window panel, mark a point 15 mm from the top and 15 mm from the left. Mark another point 15 mm from the top and 15 mm from the right. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill through these marks. Screw in 2 bolts into these holes but do not allow the bolt ends to go all the way through and protrude from the panel.   5. Slip the removable front window panel into the bottom panel clip on your Ultimaker. Mark where you would have to drill in order for the panel to hang on the two panel hangers attached to your Ultimaker. Use a 5/16 inch drill bit to drill through these marks. At least 6 mm below these holes, use a compass to draw a 22 mm diameter circle. Using your smallest drill bit, drill many holes all along the circumference of this circle. Use a hobby knife or saw to cut out this circle. Cut an 8 mm wide channel from the top of this circle to the 5/16 inch hole you drilled right above this circle.    HINTS; If the bolts are too tight, oil them with vegetable oil before screwing them in. If the panel hangers and panel clips don't fit, soften them with a heat gun and make them fit. These pieces are a tight fit on purpose. If the pieces are looser, then they will shake apart while the Ultimaker is printing.  If the removable front panel window doesn't fit on the panel hangers, do not use a bigger drill bit. Doing so will cause the panel to rattle while the Ultimaker is printing. Just insert your 5/16 inch drill bit and wiggle it around while drilling for a minute or two. This will loosen it enough to fit, but not too loose so that it rattles.   Print these pieces in ABS. To prevent cracking, warping and curling while printing these pieces before you've built your enclosure, create a temporary enclosure with plastic wrap and electrical tape.   All pieces are printed without supports exept for UltimakerCase3.stl . Print UltimakerCase3.stl with supports. Remove support structures with a needle nose plier before use. Update 6/27/14The hood on top of the Ultimaker was a bit wobbly, so I added reinforcements to the seams between the front and back pieces with the side pieces of the hood. The updated build plate is UM2FullPlateA2.stl . Be sure to glue these reinforcements to the acrylic plates.


Print it on its side, i used &quot;touching buildplate&quot; support and let the top of the lens hood bridge, but if your printer does not perform well with bridges you might want to support everywhere.Download the original file for my Note 4 stuff in a variety of formats here: <a href="http://a360.co/1JkJjsF" rel="external">http://a360.co/1JkJjsF</a>

Note 4 Lens Hood

Print it on its side, i used "touching buildplate" support and let the top of the lens hood bridge, but if your printer does not perform well with bridges you might want to support everywhere.Download the original file for my Note 4 stuff in a variety of formats here: http://a360.co/1JkJjsF


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