Never heard of the FSL Muse? Even if Full Spectrum Laser is a lesser-known brand compared to upstarts like Glowforge, it’s worth to take a look at its specs.

FSL Muse Hobby Laser Cutter/Engraver: Review the Specs | All3DP

Fishing is a popular hobby, but it can sometimes be a little boring... Let's improve it with 3D printing! These five fishing rods are (mostly) quick to print and provide an easy and inexpensive intro to what will hopefully become a lifetime hobby.

3D Printed Fishing Rods – 5 Great Curated Models | All3DP

Hauke-Scheer has a very special hobby, putting his own head on a fully articulated 3D printed action figure.

Hauke-Scheer Creates Mini-Me Action Figures with 3D Printing | All3DP

Jordan Duncan has turned his prop making hobby into a lucrative business, Henchmen Props, thanks to 3D printing technology.

Henchmen Props Make Incredibly Realistic Gaming Props | All3DP

This isn't your grandmother's hobby. Startup Unmade Studio drags knitting into the modern age, taking their cue from additive manufacturing.

Unmade Studio: High-Tech Knitwear Inspired by 3D Printing | All3DP

Add a little spice to your hobby crafts with designer Christophe Laimer's guide to build your own powerful 600W brushless motor.

3D Print Your Own Powerful Brushless Motor | All3DP

Looking to scale new heights? Instructables tutorial for 3D printed climbing holds demonstrates how to create custom molds for your favorite hobby.

3D Printed Climbing Holds Create Stairway to Awesome | All3DP

A Shapeways user, Stony Smith, has sold 7,000 scale model railroad items with his online shop and turned his hobby into a success.

Shapeways User Sells 7000 3D Printed Scale Model Railways | All3DP

CNC machining is a great hobby, but the proper software can be pricey. Check out our roundup of the best free CAM software!

8 Best Free CAM Software Tools in 2021 | All3DP

Plexiglass, a type of acrylic, is a common material used in hobby projects. In this guide we break down how exactly cutting Plexiglass works.

Cutting Plexiglass: How to Cut Plexiglass – Simply Explained | All3DP

So you want to get into 3D printing? You’re eager to share your hobby with your kids? Perfect! There are things you should consider first.

3D Printing with Kids: What You Need To Know | All3DP

CNC carving is an increasingly popular hobby, and one beautiful material to use is wood. Check out our list of the best wood CNC machines!

2021 Best Machines for Wood CNC Carving | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Hex Piniontower V1</h3>
<p>This Thing holds 9 Piniongears in Place.<br>
To finish it you will have to cut treats first and then mount 9x M3x10mm Bold-Head Screws. </p>
<p>Works great with my Hex Toolstand: <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4610581">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4610581</a></p>
<p>Hex Tools <a rel="nofollow" href="https://amzn.to/3ocIE3i?tag=tv-auto-20">https://amzn.to/3ocIE3i</a></p>
<p>Nut Tools <a rel="nofollow" href="https://amzn.to/2Hpc1ye?tag=tv-auto-20">https://amzn.to/2Hpc1ye</a></p>
<p>Have Fun<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/opulius/designs">https://www.thingiverse.com/opulius/designs</a></p>
<p>And if you like my design please don&apos;t forget to share in instagram #opulius :-) </p>
<p>INSTAGRAM<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/opulius/">https://www.instagram.com/opulius/</a></p></div>
</body></html>

Hex Piniontower V1

#Hex Piniontower V1

This Thing holds 9 Piniongears in Place. 
To finish it you will have to cut treats first and then mount 9x M3x10mm Bold-Head Screws. 

Works great with my Hex Toolstand: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4610581



Hex Tools https://amzn.to/3ocIE3i

Nut Tools https://amzn.to/2Hpc1ye





Have Fun 
https://www.thingiverse.com/opulius/designs

And if you like my design please don't forget to share in instagram #opulius :-) 


INSTAGRAM
https://www.instagram.com/opulius/




 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Una staffa angolare per creare supporti tipo mensole. La dimensione del pezzo &#xE8; di 50x50x13 mm inserto interno di 1cm. Non ho inserito fori perch&#xE8; io applico un velo di colla.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR-10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.02</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=GEEETECH+pla&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        GEEETECH pla                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Velocit&#xE0; di stampa 70mm/s piano riscaldato 45&#xB0; le altre impostazioni sono a vostra discrezione.</p></div>
</body></html>

Corner bracket

Una staffa angolare per creare supporti tipo mensole. La dimensione del pezzo è di 50x50x13 mm inserto interno di 1cm. Non ho inserito fori perchè io applico un velo di colla.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><hr><p>PwnCNC believes in our Makers community and is working to bring together non-printed parts and other items to help you make this or any of our things: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://pwncnc.com/make">https://pwncnc.com/make</a></p>
<p>If you&apos;d prefer to purchase it... you can buy it here: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/90deg-hose-adapter">https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/90deg-hose-adapter</a></p>
<hr><p>Does your CNC bump right up against the wall?  Then i&apos;d suspect you&apos;ll need a 90deg hose adapter to make the immediate turn.</p>
<p>Print the 1.75&quot; hose adapter. Angle-Adapter, either collar, and two tong&apos;s.</p></div>
</body></html>

90deg Hose Adapter

------------------------
PwnCNC believes in our Makers community and is working to bring together non-printed parts and other items to help you make this or any of our things: https://pwncnc.com/make

If you'd prefer to purchase it... you can buy it here: https://pwncnc.com/purchase/ols/products/90deg-hose-adapter

------------------------


Does your CNC bump right up against the wall?  Then i'd suspect you'll need a 90deg hose adapter to make the immediate turn.

Print the 1.75" hose adapter. Angle-Adapter, either collar, and two tong's.


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This rock tumbler was inspired by J_T_3_D&apos;s Affordable Rock Tumbler, as well as other versions.  But I designed this frame for a specific type / brand of geared motor.</p>
<p>The barrel wheel comes from a design by Spretrep:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2967501/files">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967501/files</a></p>
<p>The involute gears were generated using an OpenSCAD script by Catarina:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:1339">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339</a></p>
<p>Full description, instructions to be added soon.</p>
<p>Parts List:</p>
<ul><li>
<p>3 threaded rods - 5/16&quot; x 36&quot;  (all to be cut in half to make 6 - 18&quot; rods)</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>52x 5/16&quot; nuts</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>32x washers, around 1&quot; outer diameter, inner diameter at least 5/16&quot;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>The frame was designed to work specifically with the following type of electric motor. There are several variations of it that will work, 12v or 24v, and with different output gearings.  The important thing is the 6cm square flange.  I chose a 24v - 100RPM motor, at the time it cost $12 CDN.  Honestly I think it was mis-priced, because its out of stock now, and all of the other variations cost between $50 and $70 CDN.  Nonetheless it appears to be a good motor, it&apos;s working well, doesn&apos;t even get warm.<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/DC12V-Micro-Metal-Adjustable-100RPM/dp/B07CRL4JJW/ref=pd_nav_hcs_rp_1/146-7887078-5474761?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07CRL4JJW&amp;pd_rd_r=333dfb8b-e7f8-4fb3-a7dc-633add97640a&amp;pd_rd_w=MyPaG&amp;pd_rd_wg=Oj7cO&amp;pf_rd_p=790e78b4-0cfd-4dc4-9583-138b5f0ffce0&amp;pf_rd_r=3KNJG0DGX6TRN6Q57CCE&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=3KNJG0DGX6TRN6Q57CCE&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.ca/DC12V-Micro-Metal-Adjustable-100RPM/dp/B07CRL4JJW/ref=pd_nav_hcs_rp_1/146-7887078-5474761?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B07CRL4JJW&amp;pd_rd_r=333dfb8b-e7f8-4fb3-a7dc-633add97640a&amp;pd_rd_w=MyPaG&amp;pd_rd_wg=Oj7cO&amp;pf_rd_p=790e78b4-0cfd-4dc4-9583-138b5f0ffce0&amp;pf_rd_r=3KNJG0DGX6TRN6Q57CCE&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=3KNJG0DGX6TRN6Q57CCE</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p>I chose to use this 24v / 3A / 72W adjustable power supply.  Changing the voltage controls the speed of the motor.   It&apos;s working fine, but be aware that most of the adjustment range is compressed into the last 10% of the dial.<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08DKJ6JLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08DKJ6JLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a></p>
</li>
<li>
<p>4x skateboard bearings: 22x7 mm.    The inner diameter must be 8mm or 5/16&quot; to fit the threaded rods.<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DZDLB3N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DZDLB3N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a></p>
</li>
<li>16x o-rings for the wheels on the threaded rods. The size can  be from 27 to 29mm.  Maybe they&apos;re cheaper bought separately, but I chose to buy them in a kit:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XCQQPXS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XCQQPXS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a></li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Filaments.ca+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Filaments.ca PLA                    </a>

                    Yellow
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>All parts printed with 4 perimeters and gyroid infill for strength.</p></div>
</body></html>

Ken's Dual Barrel Affordable Rock Tumbler

This rock tumbler was inspired by J_T_3_D's Affordable Rock Tumbler, as well as other versions.  But I designed this frame for a specific type / brand of geared motor.

The barrel wheel comes from a design by Spretrep: 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967501/files

The involute gears were generated using an OpenSCAD script by Catarina:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1339


Full description, instructions to be added soon.

Parts List:

- 3 threaded rods - 5/16" x 36"  (all to be cut in half to make 6 - 18" rods)

- 52x 5/16" nuts

- 32x washers, around 1" outer diameter, inner diameter at least 5/16"

- The frame was designed to work specifically with the following type of electric motor. There are several variations of it that will work, 12v or 24v, and with different output gearings.  The important thing is the 6cm square flange.  I chose a 24v - 100RPM motor, at the time it cost $12 CDN.  Honestly I think it was mis-priced, because its out of stock now, and all of the other variations cost between $50 and $70 CDN.  Nonetheless it appears to be a good motor, it's working well, doesn't even get warm.
https://www.amazon.ca/DC12V-Micro-Metal-Adjustable-100RPM/dp/B07CRL4JJW/ref=pd_nav_hcs_rp_1/146-7887078-5474761?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07CRL4JJW&pd_rd_r=333dfb8b-e7f8-4fb3-a7dc-633add97640a&pd_rd_w=MyPaG&pd_rd_wg=Oj7cO&pf_rd_p=790e78b4-0cfd-4dc4-9583-138b5f0ffce0&pf_rd_r=3KNJG0DGX6TRN6Q57CCE&psc=1&refRID=3KNJG0DGX6TRN6Q57CCE

- I chose to use this 24v / 3A / 72W adjustable power supply.  Changing the voltage controls the speed of the motor.   It's working fine, but be aware that most of the adjustment range is compressed into the last 10% of the dial. 
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08DKJ6JLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- 4x skateboard bearings: 22x7 mm.    The inner diameter must be 8mm or 5/16" to fit the threaded rods. 
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07DZDLB3N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- 16x o-rings for the wheels on the threaded rods. The size can  be from 27 to 29mm.  Maybe they're cheaper bought separately, but I chose to buy them in a kit:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XCQQPXS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1





<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>specific lipo case to move the esc of my nxt 6s<br>
one is design to screw directly in the pla, the other one to add insert in the pla</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>sovol sv01</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.25</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=sovol+pla&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        sovol pla                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

bac lipo avec vario deporté pour hobbytech nxt (lipo case with esc moved)

specific lipo case to move the esc of my nxt 6s
one is design to screw directly in the pla, the other one to add insert in the pla


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Connectors for 8mm diameter paper straws to make awesome wargaming terrain.</p></div>
</body></html>

Straw Pipe Connectors for Industrial Terrain

Connectors for 8mm diameter paper straws to make awesome wargaming terrain.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I wanted to mount my Hobbywing XR8 ESC to my Senton 3S but it&apos;s too wide to fit in between the two lid screws. Originally I had to mount it sideways in between the screws to fit but this led to part of it sticking out from the lid which meant it did not make full contact with the two sided tape and also forced the ESC control wires to be bent against the steering servo.<br>
This ESC adapter plate allows for both the mounting lips of the radio box lid and the mounting screws to fit fully under the surface of the plate giving you a large flat surface to mount a ESC to your 1/10 scale Arrma the way you want. This plate simply fits on top of the receiver box lid and screws down with the original screws. I believe all the 1/10th scale Arrma vehicles use the same radio box set (or at least the lid anyway) so this should fit any of the 1/10 scale vehicles, please let me know if this is not correct. The bottom lip flares out to give it extra support around the mounting holes and I made all the holes with a slight oval shape to give a little forgiveness with printing tolerances.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Custom Made</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=3D+Solutech+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        3D Solutech PLA                    </a>

                    
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>To help support it against all the hard bumps and vibrations from racing and bashing I printed it with 1.2mm thick walls / roofs and 25% infill.</p></div>
</body></html>

Arrma ESC Adapter Plate

I wanted to mount my Hobbywing XR8 ESC to my Senton 3S but it's too wide to fit in between the two lid screws. Originally I had to mount it sideways in between the screws to fit but this led to part of it sticking out from the lid which meant it did not make full contact with the two sided tape and also forced the ESC control wires to be bent against the steering servo.
This ESC adapter plate allows for both the mounting lips of the radio box lid and the mounting screws to fit fully under the surface of the plate giving you a large flat surface to mount a ESC to your 1/10 scale Arrma the way you want. This plate simply fits on top of the receiver box lid and screws down with the original screws. I believe all the 1/10th scale Arrma vehicles use the same radio box set (or at least the lid anyway) so this should fit any of the 1/10 scale vehicles, please let me know if this is not correct. The bottom lip flares out to give it extra support around the mounting holes and I made all the holes with a slight oval shape to give a little forgiveness with printing tolerances.


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Hier mal einige Verglasungskl&#xF6;tze, oder auch Abstandshalter f&#xFC;r jeglich Hobbys oder Anwendungen am Bau wo eine exakter Abstand Ben&#xF6;tigt wird. </p>
<p>Ich wollte nicht immer 600 oder 1000 Stck von einer Sorte im Internet oder Baumarkt kaufen. </p>
<p>So ist man eventuell etwas teurer pro St&#xFC;ck, aber auf jeden Fall flexibler f&#xFC;r jegliche Anwendungen.</p>
<hr><p>Here are some glazing blocks or spacers for any hobbies or construction applications where an exact distance is required.</p>
<p>I didn&apos;t always want to buy 600 or 1000 of one variety from the internet or hardware store.</p>
<p>So you may be a bit more expensive per piece, but in any case more flexible for any application.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=OWL+PETG+or+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        OWL PETG or PLA                    </a>

                    Blue
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>ich verwende daf&#xFC;r meist immer PETG aus Stabilit&#xE4;tsgr&#xFC;nden, aber auch g&#xFC;nstiges PLA k&#xF6;nnte ggf. verwendet werden. </p>
<hr><p>I mostly always use PETG for stability reasons, but cheap PLA could also be used if necessary.</p></div>
</body></html>

Abstandshalter Glasklotz spacer for window installation and other hobbys

Hier mal einige Verglasungsklötze, oder auch Abstandshalter für jeglich Hobbys oder Anwendungen am Bau wo eine exakter Abstand Benötigt wird. 

Ich wollte nicht immer 600 oder 1000 Stck von einer Sorte im Internet oder Baumarkt kaufen. 

So ist man eventuell etwas teurer pro Stück, aber auf jeden Fall flexibler für jegliche Anwendungen.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here are some glazing blocks or spacers for any hobbies or construction applications where an exact distance is required.

I didn't always want to buy 600 or 1000 of one variety from the internet or hardware store.

So you may be a bit more expensive per piece, but in any case more flexible for any application.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just my design of a Insta360 Go camera mount for the Diatone TinaWhoop. Super Simple.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Sculpto</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Sculpto</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

key chain

Just my design of a Insta360 Go camera mount for the Diatone TinaWhoop. Super Simple.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This object was made in Tinkercad. Edit it online <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/fh44Ppj0aoS">https://www.tinkercad.com/things/fh44Ppj0aoS</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>E10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Solid</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=PLA++PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        PLA  PLA                    </a>

                    N/A
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>N/A</p></div>
</body></html>

Indoor_3mm

This object was made in Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/fh44Ppj0aoS

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>A powerful cutter for your workbench</h3>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHVnZlOFymA"><img src="http://img.youtube.com/vi/ZHVnZlOFymA/0.jpg" alt="IMAGE ALT TEXT HERE"></a></p>
<h4>Updates</h4>
<ul><li><strong>2020-11-08</strong> added two pictures of a angle guide to help you cutting stuff at an angle. The aluminium extrusion makes this thing easily extensible...</li>
</ul><h4>What&apos;s this? Do I need it?</h4>
<p>*Okay, it does not cut everything, but let&apos;s see: If you have the need to cut:</p>
<ul><li>cable</li>
<li>pneumatic tubing</li>
<li>shrink tubing</li>
<li>filament</li>
<li>cable ties</li>
<li>...</li>
</ul><p>with the the push of a button (or a foot pedal), then yes!</p>
<h4>Is it easy to build/assemble?</h4>
<p>Yes, all parts print without supports. You can use PLA, PETG, ABS or whatever you want, maybe not flex :)</p>
<p>Disclaimer: You need to cut M3 threads into a few parts for this version!</p>
<p>Assembly is straightforward. You will need a few additional items:</p>
<ul><li>M3/M4 screws or the imperial counterpert to that</li>
<li>a few M3 washers/nuts/square nuts</li>
<li>one 608 ball bearing</li>
<li>one 623 ball bearing</li>
<li>a standard 40mm hobby servo. For best cutting power use a 25Kg<em>cm or 35Kg</em>cm 180&#xB0; style servo (around 10-20&#x20AC;/$ at the usual places...)</li>
</ul><p>Optional items are:</p>
<ul><li>40x20mm aluminium extrusion (aluminum should work, too)</li>
<li>standard 3mm thick self healing cutting mat, cut to strips for the blade to dive into</li>
</ul><p>All parts can be modified to accept other bearings and screws. For that I&apos;ll provide not only .stl but also .stp files!</p>
<h5>Is this thing dangerous?</h5>
<p><strong><em>Absolutely, YES IT IS.</em></strong> With a standard breakaway blade it easily cuts off your fingertips in a few milliseconds. I have no doubt, that it can cut through the bone of your pinkie, too.</p>
<p><strong><em>USE AT YOUR OWN RISK and NEVER PUT YOUR FINGERS where the blade is.</em></strong></p>
<h4>How to control the servo?</h4>
<p>I use an arduino and a &quot;special&quot; program with an A-&gt;B control mode for the servo.<br>
You set the upper and lower position with a potentiometer and save them with a button. With another button you can repeatedly drive the servo from the upper (A) to the lower (B) position.</p>
<p>I can provide the code, if needed.</p>
<h4>Is this thing finished?</h4>
<p>Not yet, there are smaller/newer versions in the works. If you are interested in this thing, just leave a comment!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2DxjZlB?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">i3 MK2S</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%-100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=generic+PLA%2C+ABS%2C+PETG%2C+...&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        generic PLA, ABS, PETG, ...                    </a>

                    whatever you like
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>When PLA is used, the area around the screw holes should be printed solid (100% infill, with modifiers in your slicer software), because not-solid PLA will soon start to give under the screws compression force.</p>
<p>It&apos;s not that bad with PETG.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Step 1</strong></p>
                <div><p>Cut 4xM3 threads into the gear part, enlargen 4 holes in the sero disc to 3.2 to 3.5mm.</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/ec/a4/88/09/eb/IMG_20201025_095349128.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Cut 4xM3 threads into the gear part, enlargen 4 holes in the sero disc to 3.2 to 3.5mm.</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/04/58/63/b0/5f/IMG_20201025_095515218.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Assemble with M3x8mm screws</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/c0/ac/3f/8b/8f/IMG_20201025_095548533.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Cut 4x M3 threads for the servo and 6x M3 threads for the front &quot;lid&quot;. Put servo into main body and add M3 screws.</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f3/f8/b2/89/ae/IMG_20201025_095650725.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Push gear onto servo shaft</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/77/5f/3f/f2/4a/IMG_20201025_095914178.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Secure gear with the screw from the step before</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/b6/ba/b3/a6/71/IMG_20201025_095748738.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Prepare a M3x20 screw with a 3x10x4mm bearing and washers/nut as shown</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/51/06/97/62/db/IMG_20201025_100235150.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Push front lid on, If the 10mm hole is too small for the bearing, don&apos;t use force but enlargen the hole slightly with a file</strong></p>
</body></html>

Servo actuated guillotine cutter. Cuts everything*

### A powerful cutter for your workbench

[![IMAGE ALT TEXT HERE](http://img.youtube.com/vi/ZHVnZlOFymA/0.jpg)](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHVnZlOFymA)

#### Updates
- **2020-11-08** added two pictures of a angle guide to help you cutting stuff at an angle. The aluminium extrusion makes this thing easily extensible...

#### What's this? Do I need it?
*Okay, it does not cut everything, but let's see: If you have the need to cut:

- cable
- pneumatic tubing
- shrink tubing
- filament
- cable ties
- ...

with the the push of a button (or a foot pedal), then yes!


#### Is it easy to build/assemble?
Yes, all parts print without supports. You can use PLA, PETG, ABS or whatever you want, maybe not flex :)

Disclaimer: You need to cut M3 threads into a few parts for this version!

Assembly is straightforward. You will need a few additional items:
- M3/M4 screws or the imperial counterpert to that
- a few M3 washers/nuts/square nuts
- one 608 ball bearing
- one 623 ball bearing
- a standard 40mm hobby servo. For best cutting power use a 25Kg*cm or 35Kg*cm 180° style servo (around 10-20€/$ at the usual places...)

Optional items are:
- 40x20mm aluminium extrusion (aluminum should work, too)
- standard 3mm thick self healing cutting mat, cut to strips for the blade to dive into

All parts can be modified to accept other bearings and screws. For that I'll provide not only .stl but also .stp files!

##### Is this thing dangerous?
***Absolutely, YES IT IS.*** With a standard breakaway blade it easily cuts off your fingertips in a few milliseconds. I have no doubt, that it can cut through the bone of your pinkie, too.

***USE AT YOUR OWN RISK and NEVER PUT YOUR FINGERS where the blade is.***

#### How to control the servo?
I use an arduino and a "special" program with an A->B control mode for the servo.
You set the upper and lower position with a potentiometer and save them with a button. With another button you can repeatedly drive the servo from the upper (A) to the lower (B) position.

I can provide the code, if needed.

#### Is this thing finished?
Not yet, there are smaller/newer versions in the works. If you are interested in this thing, just leave a comment!



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>EZRUN MAX10 SCT Swtich Holder for Team Magic E5 HX</p>
<p>Srew M3x16</p>
<hr><p>Halter f&#xFC;r den Schalter eines EZRUN MAX10 SCT an einem Team Magic E5 HX<br>
Der Schalter muss nicht eingeklebt werden, sondern arretiert im Halter.<br>
Das Loch im Boden hilft den Schalter wieder aus der Halterung heraus zu dr&#xFC;cken</p>
<p>Es wird eine l&#xE4;ngere Schraube ben&#xF6;tigt (M3x16mm)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100</p></div>
<p></p>
</body></html>

Hobbywing EZRUN MAX10 SCT Switch Holder - Team Magic E5 HX

EZRUN MAX10 SCT Swtich Holder for Team Magic E5 HX

Srew M3x16

----------------------------------

Halter für den Schalter eines EZRUN MAX10 SCT an einem Team Magic E5 HX 
Der Schalter muss nicht eingeklebt werden, sondern arretiert im Halter. 
Das Loch im Boden hilft den Schalter wieder aus der Halterung heraus zu drücken

Es wird eine längere Schraube benötigt (M3x16mm)



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