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<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>A holder for our heater front. The original ones are broken.</p></div>
</body></html>

Holder for heater front

A holder for our heater front. The original ones are broken.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>My home office is in the basement and it gets cold in the winter. I&apos;ve got a space heater under my desk, but it doesn&apos;t help with anything above the desk, resulting in cold fingers. I looked at small space heaters for on the desk, but I don&apos;t like air blowing on me. What I needed was a small radiant heater just for my hands. There is a commercial product but it&apos;s really expensive (~$200). I wanted to see if I could make something comparable for less.</p>
<p>The usual disclaimers apply here: Don&apos;t try this at home, I&apos;m not responsible if you burn your house down, etc. </p>
<p>I don&apos;t leave the heater running when I&apos;m not there. It wouldn&apos;t do any good anyway. It&apos;s a radiant heater meant to heat you directly, not the room.</p>
<p>Build details and parts list are available at <a rel="nofollow" href="https://hackaday.io/project/175797-keyboard-heater">https://hackaday.io/project/175797-keyboard-heater</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.28mm</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Other+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Other PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used PLA with .28mm layers. It should print fine without supports, except for the holes at the top of the stand. The heat from the lamps can cause some warping, so I suggest printing the lamp holders in PETG or ABS.</p></div>
</body></html>

Keyboard Heater

My home office is in the basement and it gets cold in the winter. I've got a space heater under my desk, but it doesn't help with anything above the desk, resulting in cold fingers. I looked at small space heaters for on the desk, but I don't like air blowing on me. What I needed was a small radiant heater just for my hands. There is a commercial product but it's really expensive (~$200). I wanted to see if I could make something comparable for less.

The usual disclaimers apply here: Don't try this at home, I'm not responsible if you burn your house down, etc. 

I don't leave the heater running when I'm not there. It wouldn't do any good anyway. It's a radiant heater meant to heat you directly, not the room.

Build details and parts list are available at https://hackaday.io/project/175797-keyboard-heater

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just a little spacer to raise lid above heaters power cord. For use with the photonsters resin heater. Use if you dont want to drill holes in your printer or cover to route wiring of heater. Press fits in on my saturn at least. Need a 3d printer capable if printing 282mm x 242mm. You can print it in red or black - I just wanted to use it quickly.</p>
<p>Quick and dirty remix of Parametric Non-Destructive SLA Printer Exhaust - cut down in tinkercad:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4627808">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627808</a></p>
<p>Thermometer Clip<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4445837">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4445837</a></p>
<p>Photonsters PTC Heater<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3442165">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3442165</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Railcore 2 ZL</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>
</body></html>

Heater Spacer

Just a little spacer to raise lid above heaters power cord. For use with the photonsters resin heater. Use if you dont want to drill holes in your printer or cover to route wiring of heater. Press fits in on my saturn at least. Need a 3d printer capable if printing 282mm x 242mm. You can print it in red or black - I just wanted to use it quickly.

Quick and dirty remix of Parametric Non-Destructive SLA Printer Exhaust - cut down in tinkercad:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627808

Thermometer Clip
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4445837

Photonsters PTC Heater
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3442165

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Heated Decal Bath</h3>
<h3>Background</h3>
<p>Application of water-slide decals on scalemodels goes a little bit easier if the water is warm.</p>
<p>This project is based on a FDM 3D printed frame and some electronics that controls PCB heatbed of approx 8 Ohm. An external 12VDC/2A power-plug is needed as well. The UI consist of a 0.96&quot; OLED display with 128x64 pixels, using the SSD1306 controller, two LEDs and three buttons.</p>
<h3>Design and other resources</h3>
<p>The mechanical design is made from FDM 3D printed parts, preferably printed in PETG (but PLA should be OK also). </p>
<p>The lightguide and display lens should be 3D printed with transparent resin using a SLA printer. Print them flat on the bed. They can also be scratchbuilt with 4mm acrylic rod and 3mm acrylic sheet (but that is a lot more work).</p>
<p>The metal tray is from IKEA: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/vinter-2020-5-pastry-cutters-with-tin-assorted-shapes-30474525/">https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/vinter-2020-5-pastry-cutters-with-tin-assorted-shapes-30474525/</a></p>
<p>I used the following fasteners:<br>
Frontpanel: M3x6<br>
Front PCB: ST2.9x6.5<br>
Control PCB: ST2.9x6.5<br>
OLED display: ST2.2x6.5<br>
Top cover: M3x8<br>
Heatbed PCB: M3x12</p>
<p>The electronics design is made in KiCAD. The design database can be found in the file heated_decal_bath.zip. There are three sets of gerber-files, one for each PCB:<br>
gerber_front.zip, gerber_control.zip and gerber_heatbed.zip .<br>
These can be directly uploaded to JLCPCB (or similar PCB manufacturers), make sure you select 1.6mm thickness and 1 oz copper-weight.</p>
<p>The microcontroller used is a Arduino Pro Mini 5V 16MHz version.</p>
<p>Software can be found on GitHub: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/tkilla64/decal-bath">https://github.com/tkilla64/decal-bath</a><br>
I used the Atom editor with PlatformIO plugin to manage the source-code and it uses the following libraries:<br>
EEPROM<br>
OneWire<br>
DS18B20<br>
U8x8lib<br>
PID_v1</p>
<p>!!!!! THIS PROJECT IS STILL WORK IN PROGRESS !!!!!!</p>
<p><em>TODO-list:</em></p>
<ul><li>Complete BOM with suggested sources</li>
<li>YouTube video (episode 2) of the assembly procedure (will be finished soon!)</li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2 mm</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=add-north+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        add-north PETG                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Housing printed with PETG or PLA without any supports. 25% infill for all parts except the lid (100% infill).</p>
<p>Clear parts printied with Anycubic Clear resin, wet-sanded with 1200 grit paper and clearcoated with Mr Color GX-100 (Superclear III) thinned with Mr Color Levelling Thinner.</p>
<p>PCBs manufactured by JLCPCB (use 1 oz copper thickness!).</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/8DWidCTjsq0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
</body></html>

Heated Decal Bath

#Heated Decal Bath

##Background
Application of water-slide decals on scalemodels goes a little bit easier if the water is warm.

This project is based on a FDM 3D printed frame and some electronics that controls PCB heatbed of approx 8 Ohm. An external 12VDC/2A power-plug is needed as well. The UI consist of a 0.96" OLED display with 128x64 pixels, using the SSD1306 controller, two LEDs and three buttons.

##Design and other resources
The mechanical design is made from FDM 3D printed parts, preferably printed in PETG (but PLA should be OK also). 

The lightguide and display lens should be 3D printed with transparent resin using a SLA printer. Print them flat on the bed. They can also be scratchbuilt with 4mm acrylic rod and 3mm acrylic sheet (but that is a lot more work).

The metal tray is from IKEA: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/vinter-2020-5-pastry-cutters-with-tin-assorted-shapes-30474525/

I used the following fasteners:
Frontpanel: M3x6
Front PCB: ST2.9x6.5
Control PCB: ST2.9x6.5
OLED display: ST2.2x6.5
Top cover: M3x8
Heatbed PCB: M3x12

The electronics design is made in KiCAD. The design database can be found in the file heated_decal_bath.zip. There are three sets of gerber-files, one for each PCB:
gerber_front.zip, gerber_control.zip and gerber_heatbed.zip .
These can be directly uploaded to JLCPCB (or similar PCB manufacturers), make sure you select 1.6mm thickness and 1 oz copper-weight.

The microcontroller used is a Arduino Pro Mini 5V 16MHz version.

Software can be found on GitHub: https://github.com/tkilla64/decal-bath
I used the Atom editor with PlatformIO plugin to manage the source-code and it uses the following libraries:
EEPROM
OneWire
DS18B20
U8x8lib
PID_v1

!!!!! THIS PROJECT IS STILL WORK IN PROGRESS !!!!!!

_TODO-list:_
* Complete BOM with suggested sources
* YouTube video (episode 2) of the assembly procedure (will be finished soon!)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a replacement wall mount plate for the control panel of the popular Chinese diesel heaters, as used in many self-built motorhomes.<br>
It clips the control panel into place the same as the original mount using the same screw locations, but includes an integral flap to conceal the display and controls.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used white ABS and printed both parts flat on the bed with no supports.<br>
The hinge is a simple dimple and hollow design.</p></div>
</body></html>

Diesel Heater Control Panel Wall Mount

This is a replacement wall mount plate for the control panel of the popular Chinese diesel heaters, as used in many self-built motorhomes.
It clips the control panel into place the same as the original mount using the same screw locations, but includes an integral flap to conceal the display and controls.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I have a Speedcomfort set for my convector radiators to save energy.<br>
The fans blow the heated air faster in your room.<br>
I used 2 12V GPU fans with 86mm diameter for this concept.<br>
After wiring and testing the fans are spinning very fast with a lot of noise!!</p>
<p>So I used a voltage regulator (LM317 module) to lower the voltage to 3-4 volt.<br>
The fans are now spinning quietly.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">Prusa Mk2</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.25-0.30</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=any+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        any PETG                    </a>

                    orange
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used PETG because it stands the heat better than PLA.</p></div>
</body></html>

Fan mount

I have a Speedcomfort set for my convector radiators to save energy.
The fans blow the heated air faster in your room.
I used 2 12V GPU fans with 86mm diameter for this concept.
After wiring and testing the fans are spinning very fast with a lot of noise!!

So I used a voltage regulator (LM317 module) to lower the voltage to 3-4 volt.
The fans are now spinning quietly.


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>The original remote holder require to mount it with screws, I didn&apos;t want to make more holes in my bathroom tiles so I made this model to be able to stick it with double sided tape.</p>
<p>On picture : Original &gt; v1 &gt; v2 (available model)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR-10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=AmazonBasics+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        AmazonBasics PLA                    </a>

                    White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used AmazonBasics White PLA, no supports, I like to use a brim and I had good results at 50mm/s.</p></div>
</body></html>

Delonghi heater remote wall mount

The original remote holder require to mount it with screws, I didn't want to make more holes in my bathroom tiles so I made this model to be able to stick it with double sided tape.

On picture : Original > v1 > v2 (available model)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Housing to mount an IncuKit Mini to an SLA printer cover. I used this on my Elegoo Mars Pro to control the temperature because the printer is located in my garage and it will be cold during the winter months.</p>
<p>IncuKit Mini Settings:</p>
<p>Temp: 75.0F<br>
Turner: Off<br>
Turn Auto Off: N<br>
Temp Cal: 0.0F<br>
Ctrl Ofs: 72.0F<br>
Ctrl Chng: 4.0F<br>
OSTslope: 0.50</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.28</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic PLA                    </a>

                    Glowing Green
</body></html>

IncuKit Mini Mount (SLA Printers)

Housing to mount an IncuKit Mini to an SLA printer cover. I used this on my Elegoo Mars Pro to control the temperature because the printer is located in my garage and it will be cold during the winter months.

IncuKit Mini Settings:

Temp: 75.0F
Turner: Off
Turn Auto Off: N
Temp Cal: 0.0F
Ctrl Ofs: 72.0F
Ctrl Chng: 4.0F
OSTslope: 0.50


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Remixed oil lamp by G-ROM. I have flattened the surface, added large air pocket to float, and reduce the wick hole to 3.5mm and make it go through. This oil lamp can float back to the surface even if you push it under the oil. I use an upside-down candle wicks holder as a heat shield and wicks holder. The wick is made from parcel string pretreated with hot wax. You can experiment with rolled up cotton or toilet paper.</p>
<p>Warming: For safety reason preload container with at least 10mm deep of water before filling up with oil. The water will put out the fire once the oil is finish to avoid the 3d print from catching fire. Dont left it unattended in case it catch fire.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet ET4 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>It will work with layer height of 0.2 but use 0.1 to 0.15 for better finishs.</p></div>
</body></html>

Floating Candle Oil Lamp

Remixed oil lamp by G-ROM. I have flattened the surface, added large air pocket to float, and reduce the wick hole to 3.5mm and make it go through. This oil lamp can float back to the surface even if you push it under the oil. I use an upside-down candle wicks holder as a heat shield and wicks holder. The wick is made from parcel string pretreated with hot wax. You can experiment with rolled up cotton or toilet paper.

Warming: For safety reason preload container with at least 10mm deep of water before filling up with oil. The water will put out the fire once the oil is finish to avoid the 3d print from catching fire. Dont left it unattended in case it catch fire.

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link  ">
                                            <p>This replacement knob was designed&#xA0;to help people with hand function impairments. It will&#xA0;fit most appliances where the shaft sticks out at least 1 cm. The insert uses 12 mm 4M screws that tighten onto the shaft and then the knob slips over top and fit snugly.</p>
<p>There are two inserts available, one with the centre hole all the way through for longer shafts and one that has a solid top for buttons that require to push and then turn.</p>
<p>There&#xA0;is also a version for people without mobility issues&#xA0;</p>
										</div>
										
                                    								</body></html>

Universal Lever Replacement Knob

 This replacement knob was designed to help people with hand function impairments. It will fit most appliances where the shaft sticks out at least 1 cm. The insert uses 12 mm 4M screws that tighten onto the shaft and then the knob slips over top and fit snugly. There are two inserts available, one with the centre hole all the way through for longer shafts and one that has a solid top for buttons that require to push and then turn. There is also a version for people without mobility issues 

<p>For use with Olsson Block Nozzle Torque Wrench available at the attribution link above.</p>

<p>I created new innards for the torque wrench by Anders Olsson that allows you to use a 3/8&quot; drive socket rather than a 1/4&quot; drive socket.</p>

<p>Socket locks in tight and shouldn&apos;t fall off. Fits in the original Torque Wrench body. I also modified the wrench to provide a bit more torque than the standard by increasing the central shaft diameter and thus shortening the fins and making them more rigid.</p>


3/8" Drive for Olsson Block Nozzle Torque Wrench

For use with Olsson Block Nozzle Torque Wrench available at the attribution link above.

I created new innards for the torque wrench by Anders Olsson that allows you to use a 3/8" drive socket rather than a 1/4" drive socket.

Socket locks in tight and shouldn't fall off. Fits in the original Torque Wrench body. I also modified the wrench to provide a bit more torque than the standard by increasing the central shaft diameter and thus shortening the fins and making them more rigid.


<p>The holes is spaced so they fit all metal &quot;pegboards&quot; with 12mm hole spacing, here in Sweden that is all the ones sold by Biltema, Clas Ohlson and Jula at least.<br></p><p>Get the original files in a variety of formats at the link below:<br><a href="http://a360.co/1LqqCBk" rel="external">http://a360.co/1LqqCBk</a></p>


Nozzle torque wrench mount.

The holes is spaced so they fit all metal "pegboards" with 12mm hole spacing, here in Sweden that is all the ones sold by Biltema, Clas Ohlson and Jula at least.Get the original files in a variety of formats at the link below:http://a360.co/1LqqCBk


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