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<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>WARNING! This modification will make your drive detect a diskette, but the write protection feature will not work. So your diskettes could be written to even if their write protection holes are open!</p>
<p>I&apos;ve seen quite many broken floppy drives in Yamaha YIS-805 MSX2 computers. Those drives are Matsushita JU-253 (JU-253A161M) and the weakest point in those drives is the microswitch that is used to detect the presence of a diskette and it write protection flap. They just fall apart (see the image). There&apos;s no replacement as these switches were only produced for those drives.</p>
<p>Facing the lack of replacement, I&apos;ve designed the special plastic holder for the currently produced microswitch, that could be purchased here:</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32925876989.html">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32925876989.html</a></p>
<p>To install the replacement switch you will need to make the hole in the case square by using a file on the corners. Also the sliding plate needs to be adjusted a bit so it doesn&apos;t hit the installed switch. And finally a bit of plastic needs to be removed from the drive&apos;s faceplate. See the images for instructions.</p>
<p>The switch is joined with the holder (just put it on the pins) and is secured to the drive&apos;s body with two 2x5mm screws. They have to be installed from the bottom of the drive. You need to make the original holes in the body a bit larger for the screws to go through. </p>
<p>Then the switch needs to be connected to the board. Solder a wire between solder pads 1 and 2 and the switches&apos; front pin. The center pin of the switch needs to be connected to solder pad 3 of the drive.</p>
<p>As there are several versions of the JU-253 drives, the model of the holder may need minor adjustments. This holder is for JU-253A161M model.</p>
<p>If you want to make a small donation in appreciation of my humble efforts, please use the &quot;Tip designer&quot; button on this page:</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="/Wierzbowsky/designs">https://www.thingiverse.com/Wierzbowsky/designs</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Patona+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Patona PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>It&apos;s recommended to print the switch holder upside down.</p></div>
</body></html>

Matsushita JU-253 floppy drive switch replacement

WARNING! This modification will make your drive detect a diskette, but the write protection feature will not work. So your diskettes could be written to even if their write protection holes are open!

I've seen quite many broken floppy drives in Yamaha YIS-805 MSX2 computers. Those drives are Matsushita JU-253 (JU-253A161M) and the weakest point in those drives is the microswitch that is used to detect the presence of a diskette and it write protection flap. They just fall apart (see the image). There's no replacement as these switches were only produced for those drives.

Facing the lack of replacement, I've designed the special plastic holder for the currently produced microswitch, that could be purchased here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32925876989.html

To install the replacement switch you will need to make the hole in the case square by using a file on the corners. Also the sliding plate needs to be adjusted a bit so it doesn't hit the installed switch. And finally a bit of plastic needs to be removed from the drive's faceplate. See the images for instructions.

The switch is joined with the holder (just put it on the pins) and is secured to the drive's body with two 2x5mm screws. They have to be installed from the bottom of the drive. You need to make the original holes in the body a bit larger for the screws to go through. 

Then the switch needs to be connected to the board. Solder a wire between solder pads 1 and 2 and the switches' front pin. The center pin of the switch needs to be connected to solder pad 3 of the drive.

As there are several versions of the JU-253 drives, the model of the holder may need minor adjustments. This holder is for JU-253A161M model.

If you want to make a small donation in appreciation of my humble efforts, please use the "Tip designer" button on this page:

https://www.thingiverse.com/Wierzbowsky/designs

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I found the 128 x 32 display very small for my seemingly old and decrepit eyes, I also didn&apos;t like that fact that I had to have my eyes horizontal with the display to see it properly. I also found the Amstrad gotek adapters on here not quite the right size for the +3 which has some weird keys on the RHS screw points. </p>
<p>So I designed my own part around the much larger display supported by Flashfloppy firmware [<a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/keirf/FlashFloppy/wiki/Hardware-Mods#oled-display">https://github.com/keirf/FlashFloppy/wiki/Hardware-Mods#oled-display</a>] (display-type = oled-128x32-ztech) and it also is tilted 15 degrees from horizontal for easy reading.</p>
<p>The rotary knob is on the side and it all seems to work nicely allowing more room for the display.</p>
<p>I have used hot glue in places, and the internals are a bit of a mess.. the reason? I have spent so long on this part ( many different designs etc.) I just cant take it any more .. :-D</p>
<p>List of parts used for this build:</p>
<p>2.23 inch oled display -&gt;<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000619925866.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.6a743b07CDwam4">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000619925866.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.6a743b07CDwam4</a></p>
<p>Rotary Encoder -&gt; <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D356LRH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D356LRH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a></p>
<p>Piezo Transducer -&gt; <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27mm-Piezo-Transducer-with-90mm-leads-Ceramic-sounder-pickup-element-pack-of-2/113766620496">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27mm-Piezo-Transducer-with-90mm-leads-Ceramic-sounder-pickup-element-pack-of-2/113766620496</a></p>
<p>Gotek Cable adapter -&gt; <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KMTech-Gotek-External-Drive-Adapter-for-the-Sinclair-Spectrum-PCB-ONLY-DIY/113898102025">https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KMTech-Gotek-External-Drive-Adapter-for-the-Sinclair-Spectrum-PCB-ONLY-DIY/113898102025</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Kossel XL</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Amazon+Basics+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Amazon Basics PETG                    </a>

                    red translucent
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Trimming may be required, you may need to flip the LCD part face down.</p>
<p>I dissected the LCD carefully so I had room for the PCB it wouldn&apos;t fit otherwise.</p></div>
</body></html>

Sinclair Spectrum 3 +3 Gotek drive with Large display

I found the 128 x 32 display very small for my seemingly old and decrepit eyes, I also didn't like that fact that I had to have my eyes horizontal with the display to see it properly. I also found the Amstrad gotek adapters on here not quite the right size for the +3 which has some weird keys on the RHS screw points. 

So I designed my own part around the much larger display supported by Flashfloppy firmware [https://github.com/keirf/FlashFloppy/wiki/Hardware-Mods#oled-display] (display-type = oled-128x32-ztech) and it also is tilted 15 degrees from horizontal for easy reading.

The rotary knob is on the side and it all seems to work nicely allowing more room for the display.

I have used hot glue in places, and the internals are a bit of a mess.. the reason? I have spent so long on this part ( many different designs etc.) I just cant take it any more .. :-D

List of parts used for this build:

2.23 inch oled display ->
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000619925866.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.6a743b07CDwam4

Rotary Encoder -> https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D356LRH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Piezo Transducer -> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27mm-Piezo-Transducer-with-90mm-leads-Ceramic-sounder-pickup-element-pack-of-2/113766620496

Gotek Cable adapter -> https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KMTech-Gotek-External-Drive-Adapter-for-the-Sinclair-Spectrum-PCB-ONLY-DIY/113898102025






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