Dr. Eva Håkansson is setting world records with KillaJoule, her custom-built electric motorcycle with a design aided by 3D printers.

KillaJoule: Record (and Stereotype) Breaking Electric Motorcycle | All3DP

James Bruton from XRobots creates and rides a gigantic LEGO electric skateboard made with 3D printed bricks.

Maker Creates Gigantic 3D Printed "LEGO" Electric Skateboard | All3DP

Canadian researchers have developed a new method for fabricating magnets for electric motors using cold spray Additive Manufacturing.

Researchers Create Permanent Magnets with Cold Spray Additive Manufacturing | All3DP

Hinckley uses lightweight composite structural components and titanium 3D printing to build all-electric 28-foot Dasher yacht.

Titanium 3D Printing Gives All-Electric Hinckley Yacht a Luxurious Look | All3DP

Designer Josep Bolart launches the Paolo urban mobility concept, a sleek and minimalist 3D printed electric scooter with replaceable parts.

Prototype Paolo is a 3D Printed Electric Scooter | All3DP

Aiming to make its debut bike personal, Italian Volt 3D prints parts of its Lacama electric motocycle to change its shape and characteristics.

Italian Volt Lacama: Your Own Personalized Electric Motorbike? | All3DP

A sheet of bioprinted hydrogels -- inspired by the electric eel -- is capable of delivering 110 volts of electricity. It has potential to become a soft power source which draws on a biological system's chemical energy.

Electric Eels Inspire Device Which Reaches 110 Volts | All3DP

With a little 3D printing and a lot of imagination, Jame Bruton from XRobots has created the Batman Electric Skateboard - or Batboard.

Maker Builds BatBoard, A Batman-Themed Electric Skateboard | All3DP

General Electric are building a factory in Prague, Czech Republic that will produce a turboprop engine using 3D printed parts.

GE’s Aviation Plant in Prague to Build Engines with 3D Printed Parts | All3DP

General Electric have started testing the largest jet engine ever built which has even been made using 3D printed parts.

GE Build World’s Largest Commercial Jet Engine using 3D Printing | All3DP

Prague startup, 4ekolka, has created a 3D printed, all-electric city car prototype which can travel as far as 124 miles on a full charge.

Prague Startup 4ekolka Creates 3D Printed Electric City Car | All3DP

Inside of the Otara-based Accelerating Aotearoa, designer Ira Munn is working on The Drop, New Zealand's first 3D printed electric vehicle.

New Zealand's First 3D Printed Electric Car is Underway | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Curved mount for shredlights SL-200, since it was missing from thingiverse :(<br>
A bit slimmer than others and lights sit securely. Also a bit shorter than the original.</p>
<p>I sanded the bottom and used velcro to mount to helmet.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet A8 Plus</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic PETG                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Pretty standard</p></div>
</body></html>

Shredlights SL-200 Curved Helmet Mount

Curved mount for shredlights SL-200, since it was missing from thingiverse :(
A bit slimmer than others and lights sit securely. Also a bit shorter than the original.

I sanded the bottom and used velcro to mount to helmet.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>soporte para voltage display para una bicicleta electrica</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>anet </p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Sakata+Pla&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Sakata Pla                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

 voltage electric bike

soporte para voltage display para una bicicleta electrica

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Second design I have ever made here. This is still a work in progress, and I am working on updating the fit around the remote to make it as snug as possible without being hard to work with. </p>
<p>This will make the remote a bit thicker, but it will also protect it from scrapes and drops. All corners are covered so the remote shouldn&apos;t be damaged if it is dropped, even at speed. </p>
<p>IF YOU PRINT THIS: Make sure you use something very flexible like NinjaFlex. To insert the remote, push the bottom through the large opening on the grip, and then push the bottom past the opening in the back for the charging port. From there you can press it into place. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>LulzBot</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Mini 2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=NinjaTek+NinjaFlex&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        NinjaTek NinjaFlex                    </a>

                    blue
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used NinjaFlex and kept infil low, though it doesn&apos;t really need any infill. </p>
<p>To insert the remote, push the bottom through the scroll wheel hole, and then push the bottom past the opening in the back for the charging port. From there you can press it into place. I may update this file to remove the large hole near the fingers, since it doesn&apos;t actually serve any purpose. </p></div>
</body></html>

Exway Remote Flexible Cover

Second design I have ever made here. This is still a work in progress, and I am working on updating the fit around the remote to make it as snug as possible without being hard to work with. 

This will make the remote a bit thicker, but it will also protect it from scrapes and drops. All corners are covered so the remote shouldn't be damaged if it is dropped, even at speed. 

IF YOU PRINT THIS: Make sure you use something very flexible like NinjaFlex. To insert the remote, push the bottom through the large opening on the grip, and then push the bottom past the opening in the back for the charging port. From there you can press it into place. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a thumb ramp for a Warwick Corvette $$, but it should also work for instruments that have a pair of MusicMan humbuckers with around a 12mm gap between them.</p>
<p>You can attach the thumb ramp to the pickups with a bit of double sided tape, I would not recommend sticking it to the body of the instrument. </p></div>
</body></html>

Warwick Corvette $$ thumb ramp

This is a thumb ramp for a Warwick Corvette $$, but it should also work for instruments that have a pair of MusicMan humbuckers with around a 12mm gap between them.

You can attach the thumb ramp to the pickups with a bit of double sided tape, I would not recommend sticking it to the body of the instrument. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I have  put wiring into the wall for my tv, with a set of ports behind the TV and this socket at the bottom of the wall for connecting to HiFi, PS4, Power for TV etc.</p>
<p>There was no &quot;off the shelf&quot; power inlet to send power up to a soocket for the TV, so I used a standard computer D-Plug inlet to act as a place to connect the supply using a standard Computer power cable. </p>
<p>This 3D printed housing provides a secure position for the power socket as the plug can be tight pushing in and out, i didn&apos;t want it pulling out or pushing inwards. This design clamps securely using some spare computer screws I had to hand.</p>
<p>I printed it with 100% infill for strength and a higher resolution to ensure a good finish.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">i3 MK3</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.1</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Giant+Arm+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Giant Arm PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>must be 100% infill for strength</p></div>
</body></html>

Power D-Plug Euro Module for wall socket

I have  put wiring into the wall for my tv, with a set of ports behind the TV and this socket at the bottom of the wall for connecting to HiFi, PS4, Power for TV etc.

There was no "off the shelf" power inlet to send power up to a soocket for the TV, so I used a standard computer D-Plug inlet to act as a place to connect the supply using a standard Computer power cable. 

This 3D printed housing provides a secure position for the power socket as the plug can be tight pushing in and out, i didn't want it pulling out or pushing inwards. This design clamps securely using some spare computer screws I had to hand.

I printed it with 100% infill for strength and a higher resolution to ensure a good finish.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><ul><li>Description :</li>
</ul><p>Voici le fichier 3D d&apos;un cadre saillie pour prise &#xE9;lectrique industrielle Schneider Electric Pratika de 90mm X 100mm.</p>
<ul><li>Installation :</li>
</ul><p>Le cadre n&apos;a pas de trous pour le fixer, libre &#xE0; vous de les faire aux entraxes de votre choix, une fois perc&#xE9;, je vous conseille d&apos;utiliser des rondelles larges.<br>
Pour fixer la prise au cadre, agrandissez les trous de la prise &#xE0; 5.2mm, munissez vous de vis M5, vissez simplement les vis dans les trous du cadre, ils se tarauderons avec la vis.</p>
<ul><li>Modifications :</li>
</ul><p>Je vous ai mis &#xE0; disposition le fichier SolidWorks afin que vous puissiez le modifier en fonction de vos besoins.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=ICE+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        ICE PLA                    </a>

                    Blanc
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>J&apos;utilise du PLA de la marque ICE Filaments, je r&#xE8;gle la temp&#xE9;rature du plateau &#xE0; 50&#xB0;C et la buse &#xE0; 200&#xB0;C, la vitesse de la couche initiale &#xE0; 20mm/s, et la vitesse d&apos;impression &#xE0; 50mm/s. La dur&#xE9;e d&apos;impression est estim&#xE9;e par Cura &#xE0; 15 heures et 3 minutes.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/76/e9/0a/ca/bf/20201101_122719.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/e5/e6/8c/fe/82/20201101_122710.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/ba/20/6e/e1/e2/20201101_122701.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/a7/96/bf/c4/4a/20201101_123709.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f9/99/02/af/ea/20201101_123719.jpg"></p>
</body></html>

Cadre saillie Schneider Electric Pratika 90X100 V1

- Description :

Voici le fichier 3D d'un cadre saillie pour prise électrique industrielle Schneider Electric Pratika de 90mm X 100mm.


- Installation :

Le cadre n'a pas de trous pour le fixer, libre à vous de les faire aux entraxes de votre choix, une fois percé, je vous conseille d'utiliser des rondelles larges.
Pour fixer la prise au cadre, agrandissez les trous de la prise à 5.2mm, munissez vous de vis M5, vissez simplement les vis dans les trous du cadre, ils se tarauderons avec la vis.

- Modifications :

Je vous ai mis à disposition le fichier SolidWorks afin que vous puissiez le modifier en fonction de vos besoins.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just simple wall mounts for the Xiaomi 1S. It will probably work for the other e-scooters.</p>
<p>When mounted the front wheel should stand on the ground.</p>
<hr><p><strong>Update: 15 Nov 2020</strong> - Thicker model for better screw fitting.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.26</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Amazon+Basics+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Amazon Basics PLA                    </a>
</body></html>

Xiaomi Scooter 1S/Pro2 wall mount

Just simple wall mounts for the Xiaomi 1S. It will probably work for the other e-scooters.

When mounted the front wheel should stand on the ground.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

<strong>Update: 15 Nov 2020</strong> - Thicker model for better screw fitting.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This has two 57mm (or 2.25&quot;) variants of my 35mm dust port adaptor for the DeWalt D26676-XE Planer </p>
<p>Full Disclosure: I need beta testers!</p>
<p>I actually designed this on behalf of someone else based on their measurements.... and have not tested these models personally. I&apos;ve subsequently received other requests, so I&apos;ve decided to put these models up for people to have a look at. If you try either of these models, please let me know how you go so I can ensure my offerings work for people.</p>
<p>Two different files. Please pick the one that suits you best:</p>
<p>Now there are two versions of this file, and the only difference is the length (depth) of the vacuum end. The first one has a 65mm long taper (great for vacuums with the standard vacuum handle) and one that has a shorter, 48mm long taper (so this suits the typically shorter hose attachments/ends). Naturally tapering the same amount over a shorter distance will have a somewhat more aggressive angle.</p>
<p>Both models work on the same principles as my 35mm model adaptor:</p>
<p>The 57mm or 2.25&quot; hose attachment of the shop vac and planer dust port get inserted to their respective ends of the adaptor.</p>
<p>Now the official internal dimensions of the (circular) vacuum end of the adaptor are:</p>
<p>58mm diameter at the open end, and it tapers down to 57.14mm to ensure a decent seal. Normally I don&apos;t put as much taper in as this if I measured the vacuum attachment myself, but the greater range should allow a wider variety of vacuums to work with this adaptor.</p>
<p>The first model was designed to be printed on a colleagues Prusa I3 MK2.5, and he has a love affair with PETG, so I&apos;ve added those details below. However, you could easily adapt it to PLA, and I think it&apos;d work pretty well. Just keep your infill to be somewhere around the 25-30% as I&apos;ve found that occasionally I put some stress on my 35mm model if it gets caught on something.</p>
<p>In your preferred slicer of choice:</p>
<p>I&apos;d strongly recommend that you ensure that the wide end of the adaptor faces the bed for best adhesion. I also recommend a brim to further improve the odds of success. While the adaptor walls are 3mm thick, a little extra bed contact area won&apos;t harm the project.</p>
<p>Now I&apos;ve had another look at the tapering from the 57mm end to the dust port, and in a vertical orientation, I think you can get away with not using supports, as the angles aren&apos;t too bad, but this may vary depending on your situation and preferences. I trust you can adapt any settings to your particular printing circumstances.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>i3 MK2.5</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Prusa%2F3D+Fillies+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Prusa/3D Fillies PETG                    </a>

                    Black
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>It&apos;s technically a remix, but has a couple of variants for differing situations.</strong></p>
                <div><p>I use Fusion360, if you&apos;d like details on how to get a tight fit on oddly-shaped dust ports, please read the section in my 35mm adaptor for this planer. You can see how I used a photo as a canvas in some of my images here to form the planer end of the adaptor. DeWalt certainly didn&apos;t make it easy adapt in &quot;any old way&quot;. I&apos;ve tested the 35mm model and it works well, so I&apos;ve left that end of these adaptors alone here. </p>
<p>These two models are just an adaptation of the upper part using larger circles with differing offset planes, the shell command, and extruding/opening the ends to create a pipe-like object.</p>
<p>I&apos;ve had a few people talk to me about this, and each person had slightly different read on their 57mm vacuum attachment measurements, some used a longer vacuum handle attachment, while others used shorter hose ends/adaptors. So the tapering needed to be quite aggressive (relatively speaking) for shorter attachments, and more gentle for the handle.</p>
<p>I&apos;ve explicitly avoided creating spiral interfacing for hoses as the vacuums often have differing thread counts, depending on the make/model of vacuum. I just want this to work for as many people as possible.</p></div>
</body></html>

Vacuum Adaptor for DeWalt D26676-XE Planer (To suit 57mm/2.25" hose)

This has two 57mm (or 2.25") variants of my 35mm dust port adaptor for the DeWalt D26676-XE Planer 

Full Disclosure: I need beta testers!

I actually designed this on behalf of someone else based on their measurements.... and have not tested these models personally. I've subsequently received other requests, so I've decided to put these models up for people to have a look at. If you try either of these models, please let me know how you go so I can ensure my offerings work for people.

Two different files. Please pick the one that suits you best:

Now there are two versions of this file, and the only difference is the length (depth) of the vacuum end. The first one has a 65mm long taper (great for vacuums with the standard vacuum handle) and one that has a shorter, 48mm long taper (so this suits the typically shorter hose attachments/ends). Naturally tapering the same amount over a shorter distance will have a somewhat more aggressive angle.

Both models work on the same principles as my 35mm model adaptor:

The 57mm or 2.25" hose attachment of the shop vac and planer dust port get inserted to their respective ends of the adaptor.

Now the official internal dimensions of the (circular) vacuum end of the adaptor are:

58mm diameter at the open end, and it tapers down to 57.14mm to ensure a decent seal. Normally I don't put as much taper in as this if I measured the vacuum attachment myself, but the greater range should allow a wider variety of vacuums to work with this adaptor.

The first model was designed to be printed on a colleagues Prusa I3 MK2.5, and he has a love affair with PETG, so I've added those details below. However, you could easily adapt it to PLA, and I think it'd work pretty well. Just keep your infill to be somewhere around the 25-30% as I've found that occasionally I put some stress on my 35mm model if it gets caught on something.

In your preferred slicer of choice:

I'd strongly recommend that you ensure that the wide end of the adaptor faces the bed for best adhesion. I also recommend a brim to further improve the odds of success. While the adaptor walls are 3mm thick, a little extra bed contact area won't harm the project.

Now I've had another look at the tapering from the 57mm end to the dust port, and in a vertical orientation, I think you can get away with not using supports, as the angles aren't too bad, but this may vary depending on your situation and preferences. I trust you can adapt any settings to your particular printing circumstances.


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Electric fan gearbox...</p></div>
</body></html>

Electric fan gearbox

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I have a bunch of 250V outlets in my shop. Since the shop is used for metal work, the outlets can get caked with metal dust. Hasn&apos;t caused any problems yet, but I thought having a simple cover would be nice. </p>
<p>These are not specific to the plug configuration (which are different based on amps). They simply slip over the extruding round outlet (with a diameter of about 54mm).</p>
<p>250V is also referred to as 220V, 230V, 240V... </p>
<p>This should be considered a dust cap and is <em>not intended for child safety</em>. </p>
<p><strong>Logo vs blank?</strong><br>
I added the &quot;high voltage&quot; logo to the bottom using tiny gaps. Your slicer should follow these when filling it in - leaving a subtile image of the logo. However, you will probably need a flat and smooth bed to make it legible. Or... just print out the blank one.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR-10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Overture+PETG+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Overture PETG                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>PETG is nice and flexible for these. </p></div>
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250V outlet cap

I have a bunch of 250V outlets in my shop. Since the shop is used for metal work, the outlets can get caked with metal dust. Hasn't caused any problems yet, but I thought having a simple cover would be nice. 

These are not specific to the plug configuration (which are different based on amps). They simply slip over the extruding round outlet (with a diameter of about 54mm).

250V is also referred to as 220V, 230V, 240V... 

This should be considered a dust cap and is *not intended for child safety*. 

**Logo vs blank?**
I added the "high voltage" logo to the bottom using tiny gaps. Your slicer should follow these when filling it in - leaving a subtile image of the logo. However, you will probably need a flat and smooth bed to make it legible. Or... just print out the blank one.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This Thing is to mount the WAGO Micros to a DIN rail.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Sidewinder X1</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=BASICFIL+PLA+1.75+white+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        BASICFIL PLA 1.75 white PLA                    </a>

                    White
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DIN Rail (Hutschiene) Clip for WAGO MICRO

This Thing is to mount the WAGO Micros to a DIN rail.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Have a push-button switch mounted on the ceiling for some odd reason?  Tired of using a broom stick to turn it on and off?  Look no more!  This fits into standard wall plates with standard screws that would hold on a face plate.  </p>
<p>Note:  There is space for an optional spring to insert in the case your chain is too heavy and does not release the push when you let go of the chain.</p></div>
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Ceiling Switch Pull Chain

Have a push-button switch mounted on the ceiling for some odd reason?  Tired of using a broom stick to turn it on and off?  Look no more!  This fits into standard wall plates with standard screws that would hold on a face plate.  

Note:  There is space for an optional spring to insert in the case your chain is too heavy and does not release the push when you let go of the chain.

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