Being some of the best in the 3D printing realm, E3D hot ends have plenty of variants. Check out the best E3D hot ends and alternatives.

10 Best E3D Hot Ends & Alternatives | All3DP

The new E3D Ultimaker 2 Extrusion Upgrade Kit promises to bring superior 3D printing performance to the Ultimaker 2 family.

Say Hello to the E3D Ultimaker 2 Extrusion Upgrade Kit | All3DP

Despite being a crowd-funding success story in 2015, production of the BigBox 3D Printer is officially discontinued by E3D online.

E3D Ends Production and Sales of BigBox 3D Printer | All3DP

In order to improve high-temperature 3D printing, E3D releases the Titan Aqua hotend and extruder alongside a water-cooling kit.

E3D Releases Titan Aqua Water-Cooling System for FDM Printing | All3DP

Named after the gods of Greek Mythology, the new E3D Titan extruder is proof that that big things can come in small packages.

E3D Titan Review: A Super Light Extruder | All3DP

In their quest to continually refine the 3D printing experience, E3D has created silicone socks for your hotends to keep your nozzle clean.

E3D Launches Silicone Socks for Cleaner Prints | All3DP

The E3D Hemera is a dual-drive extruder that can serve in a Bowden or direct drive system. Read on to learn all about its many features!

E3D Hemera: All You Need to Know | All3DP

Enhancing an old workhorse with the E3D Ultimaker 2 Extrusion Upgrade Kit is a tantalising prospect. Read our detailed test and review.

E3D Ultimaker 2 Extrusion Upgrade Kit Review: The Ultimate Ultimaker 2 Upgrade? | All3DP

E3D celebrates the 3rd birthday of its popular V6 hotend with style - by offering a gold edition and optional titanium heat breaks.

E3D Lets You 3D Print With Gold V6 Hotend and Titanium Heat Breaks | All3DP

New E3D Titan extruder promises all the benefits of geared extrusion in a lightweight package. The perfect upgrade for the BigBox 3D printer?

E3D Titan is a Lightweight & Powerful New Extruder | All3DP

After great success on Kickstarter, the E3D BigBox 3D printer is shipping to backers. Is it really the high-spec, no compromise machine we were promised?

E3D BigBox 3D Printer Review: Unbeatable (Budget) Performer | All3DP

Building on the success of its Titan extruder and V6 hotend, E3D launches the lightweight and compact Titan Aero extruder-hotend 2-in-1.

E3D Unveils New Titan Aero Extruder & Hotend Combo | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a dragchain i made for my Kay CoreXY setup, with a Hemera hotend and BL touch.</p>
<p>This setup have been tested and for those who have downloaded earlier versions, there have been some adjustements.</p>
<p>The BL_touch is now relocated to make a more compact and functional design. The frame bracket for the chain have been fortified.</p>
<p>The chain is drawn with 0.4 nozzle tolearance, but is made extremely tight, the reason for this, is to prevent sag in the chain when its used for a few hrs. The chain need to be &quot;worked&quot; a little after assembly before its mounted on the printer.</p>
<p>This Hemera mount is using 3 of the 4 Hemera mounting brackets, that way, the hemera can be mounted while the cradle is still on the X beam.</p>
<p>BL touch offset is +22.6 and +0.05, height about -3, this will need fineadjustement</p>
<p>You need a total of 25 links, and about 30 clips</p>
<p>Mounted to the frame with 2X M4 T nuts</p>
<p>The fanduct is a remake of<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4091776">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4091776</a></p>
<p>The mounting bracket did not fit my needs, so i used the cooling fangs from the original thing, and made a new mounting bracket, fitting my Kay CoreXY convertion.</p>
<p>You can find the fan mount here<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4616767">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4616767</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Kay3D Core XY  Ender 5 plus</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Form+Futura+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Form Futura PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Ender 5 plus, KAY3D CoreXY, Modification pack.

This is a dragchain i made for my Kay CoreXY setup, with a Hemera hotend and BL touch.

This setup have been tested and for those who have downloaded earlier versions, there have been some adjustements.
 
The BL_touch is now relocated to make a more compact and functional design. The frame bracket for the chain have been fortified.

The chain is drawn with 0.4 nozzle tolearance, but is made extremely tight, the reason for this, is to prevent sag in the chain when its used for a few hrs. The chain need to be "worked" a little after assembly before its mounted on the printer.

This Hemera mount is using 3 of the 4 Hemera mounting brackets, that way, the hemera can be mounted while the cradle is still on the X beam.

BL touch offset is +22.6 and +0.05, height about -3, this will need fineadjustement

You need a total of 25 links, and about 30 clips

Mounted to the frame with 2X M4 T nuts

The fanduct is a remake of
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4091776

The mounting bracket did not fit my needs, so i used the cooling fangs from the original thing, and made a new mounting bracket, fitting my Kay CoreXY convertion.

You can find the fan mount here
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4616767

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Remix for 22mm engine from TriangleLab. The seat under the engine is increased and the foot pressing on the end switch is increased.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Bestfilament+ABS&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Bestfilament ABS                    </a>
</body></html>

Titan Aero mount for X-Carriage [MK4] 22mm

Remix for 22mm engine from TriangleLab. The seat under the engine is increased and the foot pressing on the end switch is increased.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Basket to catch falling tools and dropping filament on E3D&apos;s toolchanger.</p>
<p>It is mounted to the holes designed for the Titan Extruders, so best used in conjunction with other tools like Hemera print-heads.</p>
<p>Required Screws/Nuts:</p>
<ul><li>4x M3x10</li>
<li>4x M3 Nuts</li>
</ul><p>Currently only available for T2 and T3.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Prusament+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Prusament PETG                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

ToolCatcher for E3D ToolChanger

Basket to catch falling tools and dropping filament on E3D's toolchanger.

It is mounted to the holes designed for the Titan Extruders, so best used in conjunction with other tools like Hemera print-heads.

Required Screws/Nuts:
- 4x M3x10
- 4x M3 Nuts

Currently only available for T2 and T3.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a remix of the Orbiter extruder and is definitely a work in progress.</p>
<p>The base adapter is for the e3d tool changer v6 bowden tool. The changes to the extruder are in the housing and the drive train.</p>
<p>In the housing I made the following changes:</p>
<p>1) The heat break part is replaced with a simple PTFE 4 mm o.d. tube. I recommend, after printing and assembling this, to take some two part mold-able epoxy (like Milliput) and build up the area around the tubing to hold it precisely between the hobb gears and as close as possible to the hobb gears. I will include a photo of what I did.</p>
<p>2) The M3 heat set insert that holds the latch closing screw in place was made larger to have what I had in stock. I will update this with its&apos; dimensions and try to put a link to the item in Amazon.</p>
<p>3) The filament entrance to the extruder supports use of a very lightweight plastic locking collet (the same part that e3d uses with their extruders) which will hold a PTFE 4mm .o.d. tube in place. This allows using tubing to guide the filament from the spool to the extruder. I use it with a dry box so that the filament is only exposed to the ambient air inside the extruder itself.</p>
<p>4) Integrated e3d tool changer style wiring harness and harness guide mounting point. There are provisions for 3 zip lock ties to hold the wiring in place and a slot for a flat steel &quot;wiring harness guide&quot;. If you want to understand this set up, please look at e3d&apos;s v6 bowden tool for their tool changer. Even if you are not using e3d&apos;s tool changer, it&apos;s nice to have a place to anchor the extruder wiring harness.</p>
<p>In the drive train:</p>
<p>I wanted a way to be able to print as much of the drive train as possible. I modified the drive shaft/spider to support press on gears (no bearings needed). I modified the spur gears to match the drive shaft. The spur gears have also been modified to minimize the effect of &quot;elephant foot&quot; and with chamfers on the gear teeth. I have printed my first set in Matterhacker&apos;s NylonX (PA-12 with additives and carbon fiber). So far, they are working very well. The have stood up to the break in and several hours of use so far.</p>
<p>A note: if using a 0.4mm nozzle, set the extrusion width significantly smaller when printing out the gears. The 0.4 mm nozzle will allow the use of carbon fiber or glass fiber reinforced plastic. The smaller extrusion width should give a more accurate gear tooth profile.</p>
<p>When pressing the spur gears onto the drive shaft, the inside of the gears and the stubs they will be mounted on must be heavily lubricated (synthetic or silicon grease with PTFE added) prior to being pressed on. I use a bench vice to carefully apply pressure. The drive shaft stubs where the spur gears are mounted are large enough to not break under use. If you have pressed them in too hard (such that they refuse to turn), they can be carefully pried about 1 mm away. Do this for all 3 spur gears.</p>
<p>There are two steps to breaking in the drive train / gears.</p>
<p>1) Initially, to break them in, use a power drill or bench drill press. Chuck up the drive shaft with the gears pressed on and put the assembly into a heavily lubricated ring gear . Slowly spin the driveshaft for the first 20 revolutions or so. It should become much easier to turn pretty quickly. (If you are wondering how robust this is, you can let the drill press run for an hour or more as long as the lubrication stays in place. Because heat can be generated, don&apos;t leave it unattended.</p>
<p>2) Now add the stepper motor to the assembly so that its gear engages the printed spur gears. The complete assembly may be difficult to turn. Run a power drill slowly (like in the first step) for about 20 turns. It should now turn easier. You can continue to use a hand power drill to break it in. The stepper motor may get quite hot so be careful holding it.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>BigBox</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50% to 100% (use lots of shells as well)</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Matterhacker%27s+nylonX+Nylon+12+with+carbon+fiber&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Matterhacker&apos;s nylonX Nylon 12 with carbon fiber                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Orbiter Remix for e3d tool changer

This is a remix of the Orbiter extruder and is definitely a work in progress.

The base adapter is for the e3d tool changer v6 bowden tool. The changes to the extruder are in the housing and the drive train.

In the housing I made the following changes:

1) The heat break part is replaced with a simple PTFE 4 mm o.d. tube. I recommend, after printing and assembling this, to take some two part mold-able epoxy (like Milliput) and build up the area around the tubing to hold it precisely between the hobb gears and as close as possible to the hobb gears. I will include a photo of what I did.

2) The M3 heat set insert that holds the latch closing screw in place was made larger to have what I had in stock. I will update this with its' dimensions and try to put a link to the item in Amazon.

3) The filament entrance to the extruder supports use of a very lightweight plastic locking collet (the same part that e3d uses with their extruders) which will hold a PTFE 4mm .o.d. tube in place. This allows using tubing to guide the filament from the spool to the extruder. I use it with a dry box so that the filament is only exposed to the ambient air inside the extruder itself.

4) Integrated e3d tool changer style wiring harness and harness guide mounting point. There are provisions for 3 zip lock ties to hold the wiring in place and a slot for a flat steel "wiring harness guide". If you want to understand this set up, please look at e3d's v6 bowden tool for their tool changer. Even if you are not using e3d's tool changer, it's nice to have a place to anchor the extruder wiring harness.

In the drive train:

I wanted a way to be able to print as much of the drive train as possible. I modified the drive shaft/spider to support press on gears (no bearings needed). I modified the spur gears to match the drive shaft. The spur gears have also been modified to minimize the effect of "elephant foot" and with chamfers on the gear teeth. I have printed my first set in Matterhacker's NylonX (PA-12 with additives and carbon fiber). So far, they are working very well. The have stood up to the break in and several hours of use so far.

A note: if using a 0.4mm nozzle, set the extrusion width significantly smaller when printing out the gears. The 0.4 mm nozzle will allow the use of carbon fiber or glass fiber reinforced plastic. The smaller extrusion width should give a more accurate gear tooth profile.

When pressing the spur gears onto the drive shaft, the inside of the gears and the stubs they will be mounted on must be heavily lubricated (synthetic or silicon grease with PTFE added) prior to being pressed on. I use a bench vice to carefully apply pressure. The drive shaft stubs where the spur gears are mounted are large enough to not break under use. If you have pressed them in too hard (such that they refuse to turn), they can be carefully pried about 1 mm away. Do this for all 3 spur gears.

There are two steps to breaking in the drive train / gears.

1) Initially, to break them in, use a power drill or bench drill press. Chuck up the drive shaft with the gears pressed on and put the assembly into a heavily lubricated ring gear . Slowly spin the driveshaft for the first 20 revolutions or so. It should become much easier to turn pretty quickly. (If you are wondering how robust this is, you can let the drill press run for an hour or more as long as the lubrication stays in place. Because heat can be generated, don't leave it unattended.

2) Now add the stepper motor to the assembly so that its gear engages the printed spur gears. The complete assembly may be difficult to turn. Run a power drill slowly (like in the first step) for about 20 turns. It should now turn easier. You can continue to use a hand power drill to break it in. The stepper motor may get quite hot so be careful holding it.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Carriage for two 4010 radial fans and one 40x0 axial fan</p>
<p>&quot;separator_limiter&quot; will need to be glued</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom custom-section">Custom Section</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/B-dOML6XjtQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
</body></html>

Bowden X-Carriage Mount for E3D V6

Carriage for two 4010 radial fans and one 40x0 axial fan

"separator_limiter" will need to be glued

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Driven to update the original hot end due to difficulties clearing jams from the stock end.<br>
The v6 cover (e3dtop) is ducted &amp; narrow enough to allow arms to give full access of the dia150 plate. The mdf was retained to mount the v6 on ( ease the mdf centre hole with proxxon/ dremel)<br>
New mounting brackets (link plate) for balls move them closer to the nozzle plane to keep accuracy. It locates in &amp; is bolted through the mdf. To reduce flex both balls mount on a continuous M3x60 screw cut down to suit, or could use model M3 ball ends bolted through.<br>
Remember to measure your thermistor value at 25C or the hotend indicated temps will not be true at 215C! My settings are now &quot;M305 P1 T93500 B4388 R4700 &quot;<br>
I broke my extruder drive plate finding this out, so have included the plate, &amp; a motor spacer upgrade which allows you to use a M3x16bolt to reduce the plate strain. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">i3 MK3</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>PETG</p></div>
</body></html>

E3D v6 upgrade for fisher delta

Driven to update the original hot end due to difficulties clearing jams from the stock end. 
The v6 cover (e3dtop) is ducted & narrow enough to allow arms to give full access of the dia150 plate. The mdf was retained to mount the v6 on ( ease the mdf centre hole with proxxon/ dremel)
New mounting brackets (link plate) for balls move them closer to the nozzle plane to keep accuracy. It locates in & is bolted through the mdf. To reduce flex both balls mount on a continuous M3x60 screw cut down to suit, or could use model M3 ball ends bolted through.
Remember to measure your thermistor value at 25C or the hotend indicated temps will not be true at 215C! My settings are now "M305 P1 T93500 B4388 R4700 "
I broke my extruder drive plate finding this out, so have included the plate, & a motor spacer upgrade which allows you to use a M3x16bolt to reduce the plate strain. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I modified the top frame with an additional support for the ribbon cable since it kept dragging under the thumb screw for the extruder. I also added another hole for a zip tie and made the three holes opposite the screws to mount the extruder larger so that a M3 cap head would fit thru them making the installation easier.</p>
<p>On the carriage I added another belt locking location to allow for replacing the belt with a non-closed loop belt. The picture shown is from before I replaced existing 17 tooth S2M pulleys with new 16 tooth  GT2 pulleys and belts. I also integrated a belt tensioner on the side opposite the stepper motor. It uses a M3 x 10mm cap head screw. The belt tensioner is remixed from www.thingiverse.com/thing:1780636 and added into the carriage design.</p>
<p>See the original thing, <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3994628">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3994628</a> for all the details necessary to use this design.<br>
Step files are included for ease of remix.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Qidi X-Max</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>85%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Priline+Carbon+Fiber+PC&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Priline Carbon Fiber PC                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Qidi X-Plus & X-Max Carriage BMG Extruder & Dragon or V6 Hot-End Mod-remix

I modified the top frame with an additional support for the ribbon cable since it kept dragging under the thumb screw for the extruder. I also added another hole for a zip tie and made the three holes opposite the screws to mount the extruder larger so that a M3 cap head would fit thru them making the installation easier.

On the carriage I added another belt locking location to allow for replacing the belt with a non-closed loop belt. The picture shown is from before I replaced existing 17 tooth S2M pulleys with new 16 tooth  GT2 pulleys and belts. I also integrated a belt tensioner on the side opposite the stepper motor. It uses a M3 x 10mm cap head screw. The belt tensioner is remixed from www.thingiverse.com/thing:1780636 and added into the carriage design.

See the original thing, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3994628 for all the details necessary to use this design.
Step files are included for ease of remix.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>MGN9H Mount for BMG direct drive extruder with E3D Volcano hotend, E3D V6 heatsink and inductive level sensor.</p>
<p>You do not need to use bowden tube, the heatsink can go directly to the BMG extruder.<br>
The extruder motor and the extruder itself will keep the whole hotend in place.</p>
<p>The fanduct not held by screws, you will need to stick it in position according to your setup.</p>
<p>I&apos;m using it for my Anet E10</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>E10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>35%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=3DJake+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        3DJake PETG                    </a>

                    
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>PLA also can work, but with PETG it is more durable</p></div>
</body></html>

MGN9H BMG Volcano V6 mount with level sensor

MGN9H Mount for BMG direct drive extruder with E3D Volcano hotend, E3D V6 heatsink and inductive level sensor.

You do not need to use bowden tube, the heatsink can go directly to the BMG extruder.
The extruder motor and the extruder itself will keep the whole hotend in place.

The fanduct not held by screws, you will need to stick it in position according to your setup.

I'm using it for my Anet E10

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>UPDATES:<br>
30/10/2020 - Added mount and duct designs for a 4020 blower fan in case someone prefers that size.  Let me know how they work in the comments.</p>
<h3>Design Information:</h3>
<p>This is my attempt at a super simple mount assembly for a Bondtech BMG (or clone) with E3D V6 hot end in direct drive configuration.   I tried to strip everything down to the bare essentials.  Nothing fancy but it works great.  No modifications needed to the printer other than wiring up the new components.</p>
<p><strong>Notes:</strong> </p>
<ul><li>I designed the BLTouch mounts but have not yet tested because I don&apos;t have one yet.  Please let me know in the comments if you&apos;ve tried it out and what your experience is.</li>
<li>I think this would also work on CR-10 (and maybe other Creality printers) but I haven&apos;t tried it.  If you have success (or failure) on other printers let me know in the comments.</li>
</ul><h3>Fabrication and Installation:</h3>
<ul><li>All parts print easily with no supports.  I used PLA for rigidity it has been holding up well so far.</li>
<li>Print the main mount part with relatively high infill to stop the portion between the extruder and stepper motor from getting crushed as the motor heats up.</li>
<li>I recommend using an M3 tap to clean out an thread the holes for the fan mount.  It makes it easier and more reliable to thread in the screws.  Let me know if you&apos;d like to see a version with inset nuts instead of threading directly into the plastic.</li>
<li>I included a couple loops on the edges of the mount plate to tidy your cables using cable ties</li>
<li>
<p>The bondtech extruder runs in reverse to the stock extruder so you&apos;ll have to reverse the wiring if you are using the stock extruder motor and cable.  The small motor I bought with mine plugged directly into the main board without modification.  Your mileage may vary.</p>
</li>
<li>Hardware Required:
<ul><li>2 pcs - M3x6 mm bolts from original fan shroud - must be used in old hot end mount holes</li>
<li>6 pcs - M3x8 bolts (M3x6 will work too)</li>
<li>2 pcs - M4x20 bolts</li>
<li>2 pcs - M4 nuts</li>
</ul></li>
</ul><h3>Extruder and Hot End Details:</h3>
<ul><li>All the upgrade parts were purchased from TriangleLab here: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://trianglelab.aliexpress.com/store/1654223?spm=2114.12010612.100004.2.77ec1a6cNH5nae">TriangleLab on AliExpress</a></li>
<li><strong>Make sure to get the 24V version for Ender 3.</strong></li>
<li>The parts generally seem to be good quality and perform well.  I&apos;ve printed PLA, PETG, and TPU so far with no issues.  The only exception is the 5015 cooling fan - it has stopped functioning unless I give it a little boost to get it started.</li>
</ul><h3>Slicing and Firmware:</h3>
<p>This modification places the nozzle exactly 11.5 mm in the -Y direction (toward the front of the printer) from the original nozzle location.  This means that the nozzle will be too far forward when the printer homes.  It also means that the nozzle will not be able to reach the back of the bed before it runs out of travel ( you will lose 11.5 mm of Y print area).</p>
<ol><li>When slicing, avoid placing anything within the first ~15 mm of the front of the bed.</li>
<li>**If you use Mesh Bed Levelling&quot; you will need to change the following line in the Marlin FW configuration_adv.h file to limit the probe area:
<ul><li><strong>FROM</strong> &quot;//#define MESH_MIN_Y MESH_INSET&quot;</li>
<li><strong>TO</strong> &quot;#define MESH_MIN_Y 25&quot;</li>
</ul></li>
<li>I recommend modifying the custom start G-Code in your slicer to make sure the purge line starts and ends at Y=15 mm.  Default in my slicer was Y=10 mm and it printed slightly off the end of the bed.</li>
<li>Adjust your E-Steps to account for the 3:1 gear ratio on the extruder.  Recommended starting value is 415 steps/mm.  After calibration I ended up at 425 steps/mm.</li>
<li>During your first test print, check the extruder stepper motor to ensure that it isn&apos;t either skipping (current too low) or overheating (current too high).
<ul><li>I&apos;m using a 23 mm thick &quot;pancake&quot; motor (1A max rated current).  I had to turn Vref way down on the main board to keep it from overheating.  </li>
<li>For my setup (Ender 3 with TMC2208 stepper drivers) I set Vref to 0.8 V.</li>
<li>You will need to find the right setting for your specific controller - Google is your friend.</li>
</ul></li>
</ol></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>80%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=AMZ3D+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        AMZ3D PLA                    </a>

                    Various
</body></html>

Ender 3 Trianglelab Bondtech BMG + E3D V6 Direct Drive Mount System

UPDATES:
30/10/2020 - Added mount and duct designs for a 4020 blower fan in case someone prefers that size.  Let me know how they work in the comments.

#Design Information:
This is my attempt at a super simple mount assembly for a Bondtech BMG (or clone) with E3D V6 hot end in direct drive configuration.   I tried to strip everything down to the bare essentials.  Nothing fancy but it works great.  No modifications needed to the printer other than wiring up the new components.

**Notes:** 
- I designed the BLTouch mounts but have not yet tested because I don't have one yet.  Please let me know in the comments if you've tried it out and what your experience is.
- I think this would also work on CR-10 (and maybe other Creality printers) but I haven't tried it.  If you have success (or failure) on other printers let me know in the comments.

#Fabrication and Installation:
- All parts print easily with no supports.  I used PLA for rigidity it has been holding up well so far.
- Print the main mount part with relatively high infill to stop the portion between the extruder and stepper motor from getting crushed as the motor heats up.
- I recommend using an M3 tap to clean out an thread the holes for the fan mount.  It makes it easier and more reliable to thread in the screws.  Let me know if you'd like to see a version with inset nuts instead of threading directly into the plastic.
- I included a couple loops on the edges of the mount plate to tidy your cables using cable ties
- The bondtech extruder runs in reverse to the stock extruder so you'll have to reverse the wiring if you are using the stock extruder motor and cable.  The small motor I bought with mine plugged directly into the main board without modification.  Your mileage may vary.

- Hardware Required:
  - 2 pcs - M3x6 mm bolts from original fan shroud - must be used in old hot end mount holes
  - 6 pcs - M3x8 bolts (M3x6 will work too)
  - 2 pcs - M4x20 bolts
  - 2 pcs - M4 nuts

#Extruder and Hot End Details:
- All the upgrade parts were purchased from TriangleLab here: [TriangleLab on AliExpress](https://trianglelab.aliexpress.com/store/1654223?spm=2114.12010612.100004.2.77ec1a6cNH5nae)
- **Make sure to get the 24V version for Ender 3.**
- The parts generally seem to be good quality and perform well.  I've printed PLA, PETG, and TPU so far with no issues.  The only exception is the 5015 cooling fan - it has stopped functioning unless I give it a little boost to get it started.

# Slicing and Firmware:
This modification places the nozzle exactly 11.5 mm in the -Y direction (toward the front of the printer) from the original nozzle location.  This means that the nozzle will be too far forward when the printer homes.  It also means that the nozzle will not be able to reach the back of the bed before it runs out of travel ( you will lose 11.5 mm of Y print area).

1. When slicing, avoid placing anything within the first ~15 mm of the front of the bed.
2. **If you use Mesh Bed Levelling" you will need to change the following line in the Marlin FW configuration_adv.h file to limit the probe area:
   - **FROM** "//#define MESH_MIN_Y MESH_INSET"
   - **TO** "#define MESH_MIN_Y 25"
3. I recommend modifying the custom start G-Code in your slicer to make sure the purge line starts and ends at Y=15 mm.  Default in my slicer was Y=10 mm and it printed slightly off the end of the bed.
4. Adjust your E-Steps to account for the 3:1 gear ratio on the extruder.  Recommended starting value is 415 steps/mm.  After calibration I ended up at 425 steps/mm.
5. During your first test print, check the extruder stepper motor to ensure that it isn't either skipping (current too low) or overheating (current too high).
   - I'm using a 23 mm thick "pancake" motor (1A max rated current).  I had to turn Vref way down on the main board to keep it from overheating.  
   - For my setup (Ender 3 with TMC2208 stepper drivers) I set Vref to 0.8 V.
   - You will need to find the right setting for your specific controller - Google is your friend.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>BOBINA<br>
(obligatorio) Soporte para rodillo de rodamiento para bobina bq<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4281392">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281392</a><br>
portabobinas de filamento con sensor de peso de filamento integrado<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3262984">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3262984</a><br>
(obligatorio) Portacarretes giratorio para Ender 3 / Ender 3 pro<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4579857">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579857</a></p>
<p>EXTRUSOR<br>
(tengo y uso mi propia modificaci&#xF3;n del CR-10 Montaje modular personalizable e3D V6 para servicio pesado Volcano 5015 ABL, lo incluyo en esta publicaci&#xF3;n)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2494642">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642</a><br>
(obligatorio) Filtro de filamento universal o filtro de polvo (para 1,75 mm)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3033662">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3033662</a><br>
(obligatorio) Gu&#xED;a de filamentos Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4195300">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195300</a><br>
Soporte de cable para extrusora de aluminio BV3D Ender 3(recomiendo directamente comprar el bmg clon o el dual gear extruder pero si usted ya tiene este adelante)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3798831">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3798831</a><br>
BMG lateral de cambio r&#xE1;pido<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4618739">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4618739</a><br>
Fijaci&#xF3;n de racor<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2994683">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683</a><br>
(obligatorio) Ender 3 CR10 Direct Drive / VOLCANO<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4296799">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4296799</a><br>
Accesorio de presi&#xF3;n Bondtech BMG Bowden Adapter<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3780795">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3780795</a><br>
(obligatorio) Hero Me Remix 2 con montaje robusto y gesti&#xF3;n de cables ampliada<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3744260">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3744260</a><br>
Carcasa de ventilador compacta Red Squirrel - Ender 3 Pro - 5015 Rev1<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4170231">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4170231</a><br>
Cubierta de parrilla de ventilador personalizable (aconsejo no cubrir el ventilador del radiador)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2802474">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802474</a><br>
Ring for 4010 &amp; 5050 fan(puede que tenga que reescalarlo)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3813567">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3813567</a><br>
E3D v6 Hotend - Conducto de ventilador de 40 mm<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:354723">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:354723</a></p>
<p>PSU<br>
Silenciador del ventilador de la fuente de alimentaci&#xF3;n Ender 3(no compatible con ender 3 pro)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3328495">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328495</a><br>
Ender 3 PSU<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3023240">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3023240</a><br>
Cubierta con bisagras de PSU Mean Well LRS-350 para Prusa i3 Full Bear Upgrade<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3450424">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3450424</a><br>
Pie de soporte Ender 3 PSU<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3547990">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547990</a><br>
(si usted tiene la ender 3 y a estas alturas no ha girado el ventilador de la PSU para que introduzca aire del exterior, por favor, h&#xE1;galo)<br>
Ender 3 Meanwell LRP-350-24<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3947884">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3947884</a></p>
<p>FAN<br>
TAPA VENTILADOR CPU PARA ENDER 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2990894">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2990894</a></p>
<p>caj&#xF3;n<br>
(obligatorio) Portaherramientas Ender 3 - 2.0!<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4522940">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4522940</a><br>
(obligatorio) Caj&#xF3;n doble Creality Ender 3 Pro<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3416444">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3416444</a><br>
Caj&#xF3;n de esp&#xE1;tulas con tope<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4601124">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4601124</a><br>
Caja de herramientas Ender 3 Pro (2 cajones y tapas)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4275054">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4275054</a></p>
<p>(sus tapaderas se destruyeron?)<br>
clips y tapas<br>
Tapas de extremo de extrusi&#xF3;n Ender 3 Pro<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4264267">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4264267</a><br>
Cubiertas de perfil de aluminio<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4218585">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4218585</a><br>
Cadena de cable Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2920060">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060</a><br>
Clip de cable Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2949858">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949858</a><br>
(obligatorio) Tapa final anti enganche Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2940855">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2940855</a><br>
(obligatorio) Clip conector XT 60 para Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3366250">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3366250</a><br>
(obligatorio) Clip de cable Ender 3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3636942">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3636942</a><br>
(obligatorio) Protector de cable Ender 3 Pro (corte de 25 mm)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3322027">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3322027</a><br>
(obligatorio) Protector de cable Ender-3<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2934313">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2934313</a></p>
<p>pies<br>
(obligatorio) soporte pies damper feet 4040 (universal and Ender-3)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3541279">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3541279</a><br>
Pies amortiguadores Ender 3 Pro<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4468206">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4468206</a></p>
<p>extra<br>
Kit de conversi&#xF3;n Turn Table<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3753657">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3753657</a><br>
Soporte de barrido fotogr&#xE1;fico<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:106568">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:106568</a><br>
Soporte de calibraci&#xF3;n Benchy &amp; XYZ<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3875066">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3875066</a><br>
(si tiene doble eje z)<br>
Herramienta de calibraci&#xF3;n Ender 3 (Pro) Dual-Z X-Gantry<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3848473">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3848473</a><br>
Ender 3 Fan Cover (Edici&#xF3;n Hot Rod) | ahora con soporte para fuente de alimentaci&#xF3;n<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3680099">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3680099</a></p>
<p>test(orden por filamento a probar)<br>
(obligatorio) 1.Torre de temperatura redonda<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4339763">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4339763</a><br>
(obligatorio) 2.Cubo para Calibrar el Flow/ flujo<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3559958">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3559958</a><br>
(obligatorio) (obligatorio) (obligatorio) (obligatorio) 3.Prueba masivo de retracciones<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4140489">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4140489</a><br>
Calibrar pasos<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4629254">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4629254</a><br>
Cubos de calibraci&#xF3;n huecos de ajedrez de 20 mm<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2115733">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115733</a><br>
Dado Dice XYZ Calibracion Calibracion<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2187632">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187632</a><br>
Muestras de filamentos personalizables<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3104482">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3104482</a></p>
<p>y para finalizar y no menos importante<br>
imprima algo bonito para usted :)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

recomendaciones ender 3 y pro

BOBINA
(obligatorio) Soporte para rodillo de rodamiento para bobina bq
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4281392
portabobinas de filamento con sensor de peso de filamento integrado
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3262984
(obligatorio) Portacarretes giratorio para Ender 3 / Ender 3 pro
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579857

EXTRUSOR
(tengo y uso mi propia modificación del CR-10 Montaje modular personalizable e3D V6 para servicio pesado Volcano 5015 ABL, lo incluyo en esta publicación)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642
(obligatorio) Filtro de filamento universal o filtro de polvo (para 1,75 mm)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3033662
(obligatorio) Guía de filamentos Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195300
Soporte de cable para extrusora de aluminio BV3D Ender 3(recomiendo directamente comprar el bmg clon o el dual gear extruder pero si usted ya tiene este adelante)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3798831
BMG lateral de cambio rápido
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4618739
Fijación de racor
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683
(obligatorio) Ender 3 CR10 Direct Drive / VOLCANO
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4296799
Accesorio de presión Bondtech BMG Bowden Adapter
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3780795
(obligatorio) Hero Me Remix 2 con montaje robusto y gestión de cables ampliada
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3744260
Carcasa de ventilador compacta Red Squirrel - Ender 3 Pro - 5015 Rev1
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4170231
Cubierta de parrilla de ventilador personalizable (aconsejo no cubrir el ventilador del radiador)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802474
Ring for 4010 & 5050 fan(puede que tenga que reescalarlo)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3813567
E3D v6 Hotend - Conducto de ventilador de 40 mm
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:354723

PSU
Silenciador del ventilador de la fuente de alimentación Ender 3(no compatible con ender 3 pro)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3328495
Ender 3 PSU
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3023240
Cubierta con bisagras de PSU Mean Well LRS-350 para Prusa i3 Full Bear Upgrade
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3450424
Pie de soporte Ender 3 PSU
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3547990
(si usted tiene la ender 3 y a estas alturas no ha girado el ventilador de la PSU para que introduzca aire del exterior, por favor, hágalo)
Ender 3 Meanwell LRP-350-24
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3947884

FAN
TAPA VENTILADOR CPU PARA ENDER 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2990894

cajón
(obligatorio) Portaherramientas Ender 3 - 2.0!
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4522940
(obligatorio) Cajón doble Creality Ender 3 Pro
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3416444
Cajón de espátulas con tope
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4601124
Caja de herramientas Ender 3 Pro (2 cajones y tapas)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4275054

(sus tapaderas se destruyeron?) 
clips y tapas
Tapas de extremo de extrusión Ender 3 Pro
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4264267
Cubiertas de perfil de aluminio
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4218585
Cadena de cable Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060
Clip de cable Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949858
(obligatorio) Tapa final anti enganche Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2940855
(obligatorio) Clip conector XT 60 para Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3366250
(obligatorio) Clip de cable Ender 3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3636942
(obligatorio) Protector de cable Ender 3 Pro (corte de 25 mm)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3322027
(obligatorio) Protector de cable Ender-3
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2934313

pies
(obligatorio) soporte pies damper feet 4040 (universal and Ender-3)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3541279
Pies amortiguadores Ender 3 Pro
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4468206

extra
Kit de conversión Turn Table
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3753657
Soporte de barrido fotográfico
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:106568
Soporte de calibración Benchy & XYZ
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3875066
(si tiene doble eje z) 
Herramienta de calibración Ender 3 (Pro) Dual-Z X-Gantry
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3848473
Ender 3 Fan Cover (Edición Hot Rod) | ahora con soporte para fuente de alimentación
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3680099

test(orden por filamento a probar)
(obligatorio) 1.Torre de temperatura redonda
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4339763
(obligatorio) 2.Cubo para Calibrar el Flow/ flujo
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3559958
(obligatorio) (obligatorio) (obligatorio) (obligatorio) 3.Prueba masivo de retracciones 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4140489
Calibrar pasos
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4629254
Cubos de calibración huecos de ajedrez de 20 mm
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2115733
Dado Dice XYZ Calibracion Calibracion
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2187632
Muestras de filamentos personalizables
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3104482

y para finalizar y no menos importante
imprima algo bonito para usted :)



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>desing for fixed priting problems pla </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>RepRap</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2DWX43X?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">RepRap Kossel XL</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.4</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+abc&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex abc                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>. necesary fans 20x20x10 40x40 x10 </p></div>
</body></html>

juan guillermo garcia mayorga

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Effector</h3>
<p>Built in three parts that snap together to minimize supports, with three M3 screws holding it all together.</p>
<h3>Calibration</h3>
<p>Important: after assembling, attach the magballs and use a level to ensure it is as level as possible. Any slight variations will cause tilted prints. For extra security, I used a soldering iron across all creases to avoid slight variations during assembly.</p>
<h3>Top Piece</h3>
<p>Print with supports on top face of top piece. This area is just for aesthetics, so no need for precision in breaking off the supports</p>
<h3>Motor Hole Piece</h3>
<p>No supports needed</p>
<h3>Manual Extruder Dial Hole Piece</h3>
<p>Print only with supports against build surface, to fill the hole that the M3 nut goes in.</p>
<h3>Carriages</h3>
<p>This model is a hybrid of the <a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/UltiBots/D300VS/blob/master/d300_carriage_mb.stl">the D300VS carriage</a> and <a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/UltiBots/D300VS-PLUS/blob/master/d300p_carriage_bca.stl">the D300VS-Plus carriage</a>. Since the D300VS-Plus doesn&apos;t have a way to adjust the tension of the belts on the frame, you&apos;ll need to be able to adjust in on the carriages.</p>
<p>Print 3x of each of:</p>
<ol><li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/UltiBots/D300VS-PLUS/blob/master/d300p_belt_wedge.stl">The belt wedge</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/UltiBots/D300VS-PLUS/blob/master/d300p_carriage_tensioner.stl">The carriage tensioner</a></li>
<li>carriage.stl</li>
</ol></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Artillery Sidewinder X1</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Ultibots+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Ultibots PLA                    </a>

                    Yellow
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Very few supports needed, and only needed against build plate:</p>
<ol><li>Top piece of effector</li>
<li>Manual extruder dial hole piece of effector (for nut hole)</li>
<li>Carriage (for right asym washer hole)</li>
</ol></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/88/9c/4f/a7/df/IMG_2454.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>After adding all the screws and attaching the magballs - attach this piece</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/90/b1/ea/68/4f/IMG_2455.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Step 2</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/57/63/9f/32/95/IMG_2456.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Step 3</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/a2/1e/e9/81/cf/IMG_2457.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Step 4</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/4f/33/e9/41/94/IMG_2460.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Step 5: connect the fans to the motor, being sure not to overtighten or the gears won&apos;t turn. You may have to disconnect the fan on the other side, but I was able to reach the screw through the fan blades.</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/88/27/40/1c/4a/IMG_2462.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Step 6: Attach the fan</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/4d/e2/56/32/46/IMG-2465.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Build the carriages. Note you&apos;ll need to follow a specific order to get the screws to fit - before screwing anything in, just look to see if it&apos;s block another screw from going in. In particular, the left carriage arm nut must be inserted before the top left wheel screw, and the right screw must be inserted before the right magball.</strong></p>
</body></html>

Effector and carriages for D300VS+ (Aero Titan) for Haydn Huntley's Magball Arms

# Effector
Built in three parts that snap together to minimize supports, with three M3 screws holding it all together.

## Calibration
Important: after assembling, attach the magballs and use a level to ensure it is as level as possible. Any slight variations will cause tilted prints. For extra security, I used a soldering iron across all creases to avoid slight variations during assembly.

## Top Piece
Print with supports on top face of top piece. This area is just for aesthetics, so no need for precision in breaking off the supports

## Motor Hole Piece
No supports needed

## Manual Extruder Dial Hole Piece
Print only with supports against build surface, to fill the hole that the M3 nut goes in.

# Carriages
This model is a hybrid of the [the D300VS carriage](https://github.com/UltiBots/D300VS/blob/master/d300_carriage_mb.stl) and [the D300VS-Plus carriage](https://github.com/UltiBots/D300VS-PLUS/blob/master/d300p_carriage_bca.stl). Since the D300VS-Plus doesn't have a way to adjust the tension of the belts on the frame, you'll need to be able to adjust in on the carriages.

Print 3x of each of:

1. [The belt wedge](https://github.com/UltiBots/D300VS-PLUS/blob/master/d300p_belt_wedge.stl)
2. [The carriage tensioner](https://github.com/UltiBots/D300VS-PLUS/blob/master/d300p_carriage_tensioner.stl)
3. carriage.stl

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