At MADE Expo, keep an eye out for Politecnico di Milano's ACTLAB's Trabeculae Pavilion. Inspired by nature, made possible with 3D printing.

ACTLAB to Display Innovative Structure Printed With Wasp Delta 3D Printers | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>&#xE9;querres simples pour petite &#xE9;tag&#xE8;re.<br>
Simple brackets for little shelf.</p>
<p>Longueur de contacte avec l&apos;&#xE9;tag&#xE8;re : 7cm(v2) et 11cm(v4).<br>
Longueur de contacte avec le mur : 6,7cm.</p>
<p>Diam&#xE8;tre des trous : 4mm.<br>
Diam&#xE8;tre des trous pour les t&#xEA;tes de visses : 7mm.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR-10S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>40%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Sunlu+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Sunlu PLA                    </a>

                    Gris
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Fusion 360</strong></p>
                <div><p>Avec des fonctionnalit&#xE9;s basiques, facile &#xE0; reproduire.</p></div>
</body></html>

équerre simple

équerres simples pour petite étagère.
Simple brackets for little shelf.

Longueur de contacte avec l'étagère : 7cm(v2) et 11cm(v4).
Longueur de contacte avec le mur : 6,7cm.

Diamètre des trous : 4mm.
Diamètre des trous pour les têtes de visses : 7mm.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I purchased a Chinese dial indicator which had a three-screw case back with a large protruding mounting knob.  I needed a flat back, and the four-screw flat case backs already available online were not suitable.  So I made this one.</p>
<p>The dial indicator&apos;s original case back mounting knob was too large to fit into scootarida1&apos;s case:</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4292336">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4292336</a></p>
<p>So I also made one with a smaller knob that would fit.</p>
<p>Both versions are included here, along with the FreeCad design file.  Using it you can move the knob around, change its size, or even convert the case backs to four-screw versions.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>40% Gyroid</p></div>
<p></p>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<div><p>This was designed in FreeCAD. The FCStd file is provided so you can customize<br>
it as needed.</p></div>
</body></html>

Dial Indicator Case Backs (Three Screw Versions)

I purchased a Chinese dial indicator which had a three-screw case back with a large protruding mounting knob.  I needed a flat back, and the four-screw flat case backs already available online were not suitable.  So I made this one.

The dial indicator's original case back mounting knob was too large to fit into scootarida1's case:

   https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4292336

So I also made one with a smaller knob that would fit.

Both versions are included here, along with the FreeCad design file.  Using it you can move the knob around, change its size, or even convert the case backs to four-screw versions.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I didn&apos;t want to have my spool on top of my machine due to lack of space. But no easy way to guide the filament or being able to find one made me decide to make this little peg.<br>
You can hand thread a PC4-M6 fitting in the hole and use your left over bowden tube to guide the filament from the bottom.</p>
<p>Seeing as this is a structural part print with 100% infill</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 5</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Fiberlogy_Filaments+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Fiberlogy_Filaments PETG                    </a>

                    Transparant green
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<div><p>Remove supports and thread in a PC4-M6</p></div>
</body></html>

Hydra Fan Duct Stock Ender 5 Pro Direct drive Extruder Mount & Fillament Guide

I didn't want to have my spool on top of my machine due to lack of space. But no easy way to guide the filament or being able to find one made me decide to make this little peg.
You can hand thread a PC4-M6 fitting in the hole and use your left over bowden tube to guide the filament from the bottom.

Seeing as this is a structural part print with 100% infill

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Game Boy Macro - MK2</h3>
<p>This design is based on the designs of the original creator of most of the faceplates available here on thingiverse and with his blessing:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/gb9k/GameboyMacro">https://github.com/gb9k/GameboyMacro</a></p>
<h3>Additional info and source files</h3>
<p>Link to versioned STL&apos;s and f3d file on my Github repository: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/harryurban/GameboyMacroMK2">https://github.com/harryurban/GameboyMacroMK2</a></p>
<h3>Background and Goals</h3>
<p>I had a particular idea that I wanted to realise. </p>
<ul><li>Game Boy logo (am a big fan boy)</li>
<li>Smooth transitions from all button indents to the top face (edge fillets)</li>
<li>A recessed frame for the top screen glass screen as a cover for the bottom display, as it is unprotected without the touch screen</li>
<li>Full screen sized cutout in order to accomodate the entire display</li>
<li><code>.2 mm</code> / <code>2 layers</code> at the top right led &quot;hole&quot; -  to still see the light, but not fear water or debris getting in</li>
</ul><p>I use an R4 card running YSMenu and play my private copies with GBARunner2 and Gameyob.</p>
<h3>How to show appreciation</h3>
<p>Because of the positive feedback I got I decided to open source it, and this is a lot of additional work.</p>
<p>If you want to show appreciation for my work please consider giving my github repo a star. This would help me a lot.</p>
<p>If you can contribute or you want to, feel free to do it at: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.buymeacoffee.com/harryurban">Buy me a coffee! &#x2615;</a></p>
<p>I will be really thankful for anything even if it is a coffee or just a kind comment towards my work, because that helps me a lot. Be careful and donate just if it is within your possibilities, because there is no refund system. And remember that you don&apos;t need to donate, it is just a free choice for you. Thank you!</p>
<h3>Model in action</h3>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://instagram.com/3dirtyharry">My IG</a>  with a <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CGta5NZDbTE">video from the console in action</a>   running The Legend of Zelda - A link to the past, for Game Boy Advance.</p>
<h3>Future plans</h3>
<ul><li>Want to bring a speaker to the front</li>
<li>I am experimenting with TPU for a nice texture</li>
<li>Fine tuning some dimensions</li>
<li>Adding more structure to the back of led hole as it shines through when playing in total darkness</li>
<li>Even more structural integrity for the screw holes</li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Janbex+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Janbex PLA                    </a>

                    White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I only made minor changes to the original back plate by adding some structures for the screw holes to have more connection to the flat layer, so printing instructions are the same to all the other back plates available on this platform.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/30/90/9a/5d/a3/Screenshot_2020-11-04_at_16.29.05.png"></p>
</body></html>

Game Boy Macro MK2 Faceplate (DS Lite) 4 buttons

# Game Boy Macro - MK2
This design is based on the designs of the original creator of most of the faceplates available here on thingiverse and with his blessing:
https://github.com/gb9k/GameboyMacro

# Additional info and source files
Link to versioned STL's and f3d file on my Github repository: https://github.com/harryurban/GameboyMacroMK2

# Background and Goals

I had a particular idea that I wanted to realise. 

- Game Boy logo (am a big fan boy)
- Smooth transitions from all button indents to the top face (edge fillets)
- A recessed frame for the top screen glass screen as a cover for the bottom display, as it is unprotected without the touch screen
- Full screen sized cutout in order to accomodate the entire display
- `.2 mm` / `2 layers` at the top right led "hole" -  to still see the light, but not fear water or debris getting in

I use an R4 card running YSMenu and play my private copies with GBARunner2 and Gameyob.

# How to show appreciation
Because of the positive feedback I got I decided to open source it, and this is a lot of additional work.

If you want to show appreciation for my work please consider giving my github repo a star. This would help me a lot.

If you can contribute or you want to, feel free to do it at: [Buy me a coffee! ☕](https://www.buymeacoffee.com/harryurban)

I will be really thankful for anything even if it is a coffee or just a kind comment towards my work, because that helps me a lot. Be careful and donate just if it is within your possibilities, because there is no refund system. And remember that you don't need to donate, it is just a free choice for you. Thank you!


# Model in action
[My IG](https://instagram.com/3dirtyharry)  with a [video from the console in action](https://www.instagram.com/p/CGta5NZDbTE)   running The Legend of Zelda - A link to the past, for Game Boy Advance.

# Future plans
- Want to bring a speaker to the front
- I am experimenting with TPU for a nice texture
- Fine tuning some dimensions
- Adding more structure to the back of led hole as it shines through when playing in total darkness
- Even more structural integrity for the screw holes



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>display st&#xE4;nder f&#xFC;r SUNFOUNDER 7 INCH DIY TOUCHSCREEN</p>
<p>die stabilisierung der f&#xFC;sse musste soweit hinten sein.<br>
w&#xE4;re sie weiter vorne, w&#xFC;rde man den deckel nicht mehr rein bekommen.<br>
und ohne diese stabilisierung w&#xFC;rden die f&#xFC;sse zu leicht abbrechen.</p>
<p>erstellt mit Fusion360<br>
gedruckt mit Anycubic i3 Mega S</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Predator</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Geeetech+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Geeetech PLA                    </a>

                    All Color
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>display st&#xE4;nder f&#xFC;r SUNFOUNDER 7 INCH DIY TOUCHSCREEN</p>
<p>die stabilisierung der f&#xFC;sse musste soweit hinten sein.<br>
w&#xE4;re sie weiter vorne, w&#xFC;rde man den deckel nicht mehr rein bekommen.<br>
und ohne diese stabilisierung w&#xFC;rden die f&#xFC;sse zu leicht abbrechen.</p>
<p>erstellt mit Fusion360<br>
gedruckt mit Anycubic i3 Mega S</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom custom-section">Custom Section</h3>
<div><p>display st&#xE4;nder f&#xFC;r SUNFOUNDER 7 INCH DIY TOUCHSCREEN</p>
<p>die stabilisierung der f&#xFC;sse musste soweit hinten sein.<br>
w&#xE4;re sie weiter vorne, w&#xFC;rde man den deckel nicht mehr rein bekommen.<br>
und ohne diese stabilisierung w&#xFC;rden die f&#xFC;sse zu leicht abbrechen.</p>
<p>erstellt mit Fusion360<br>
gedruckt mit Anycubic i3 Mega S</p></div>
</body></html>

Sunfounder 7 inch DIY Touchscreen "RASPBERRY PI" Display Ständer

display ständer für SUNFOUNDER 7 INCH DIY TOUCHSCREEN

die stabilisierung der füsse musste soweit hinten sein.
wäre sie weiter vorne, würde man den deckel nicht mehr rein bekommen. 
und ohne diese stabilisierung würden die füsse zu leicht abbrechen.

erstellt mit Fusion360
gedruckt mit Anycubic i3 Mega S

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Superman vs Virus</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

Superman vs Virus stencil

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>My design for a Hue Dimmer Switch support that you can just fix on a Niko switch base. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Prepare the orignial switch support</strong></p>
                <div><p>Make 2 (or 4) holes inside the original hue support in order to fix the support with screws.</p></div>
</body></html>

Wall Support for Hue Dimmer Switch (Niko base)

My design for a Hue Dimmer Switch support that you can just fix on a Niko switch base. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Wonder Woman stencil 5</p></div>
</body></html>

Wonder Woman stencil 5

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Wonder Woman stencil 7</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

Wonder Woman stencil 7

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I&apos;ve been collecting unique bottle caps for a couple years now, and I wanted a way to display them that wasn&apos;t static (like the classic resin coffee table).</p>
<h3>TLDR</h3>
<ul><li>Bottle caps sit firmly in HexCap. Install six 4x1.5mm magnets around each hex so they snap together.</li>
<li>Stick CapHexClip to the wall, and the hexes will snap into those (Tirages dont snap in yet). You only need one CapHexClip per 30-50 bottle caps.</li>
<li>Be careful how you arrange your magnets. It&apos;s very important you align them correctly.</li>
</ul><h3>DETAILS</h3>
<p>Each hex mount takes one bottle cap. Regular bottle caps go into CapHex_v7 and Tirage (champagne etc) caps go into TirageHex_v16. Each of these needs six magnets glued into the holes along the sides of the hexes. To attach the bottle cap to the mount, just use reasonable force. I have caps from all over the world, and sometimes they&apos;re slightly wider (just how they&apos;re crimped) so I need to use a small screwdriver or something to encourage them into place. On most, I can just push it in with my fingers. It does take some force to get them in though, and they&apos;ll never ever fall out.</p>
<p>The magnets required are 4mm diameter, and the ones I use are 1.5 in length. I buy them on ebay, 200 of them is like $10 or less. You need them to be glued in with alternating polarities around the hexagon. BE CAREFUL how you glue these magnets in - if you get them wrong, you&apos;ll have some caps repelling eachother instead of holding eachother together. I use superglue. It takes some time to glue six magnets into each mount, but i just do it while watching TV. If you get the polarities right (alternating, and identical on each hex), then every hex will snap onto every other hex, in 3 of the 6 possible orientations a hexagon can be in.</p>
<p>There is a large hole in the middle of each mount, which is partly to keep it light, but also this allows for the wall clips to work. CapHexClip_v4 will stick to a wall (i just use 3M command strips), and a regular hex mount will push onto that quite firmly. This way I can rearrange the caps on my wall whenever I want, including the &apos;mount&apos; caps (which was the whole idea of this project).</p>
<p>UPDATE: Tirage cap mounts will not also work with the wall clips (as of v16).</p>
<h3>PRINTING</h3>
<p>Nothing needs supports. I use transparent PLA for everything. I would recommend using the same colour for all mounts, but you could also colour them to match the cap, or code them to the country they come from or something if you want.</p>
<h3>PICTURES</h3>
<ul><li>Two arrangements on my wall of my currently mounted cap collection.</li>
<li>A close-up of a Tirage cap mounted in its hex mount with magnets.</li>
<li>One of the wall clips in place. It&apos;s a little tricky placing these exactly where you want them, but their orientation on the wall doesn&apos;t matter.</li>
<li>The three clips I have on my wall right now.</li>
</ul><h3>TODO</h3>
<ul><li>Make a model for cork+cage topper caps.</li>
<li>Make a model for unpressed regular caps (variation of Tirage size?).</li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>
</body></html>

Hexagonal Magnetic Bottle Cap Mount

I've been collecting unique bottle caps for a couple years now, and I wanted a way to display them that wasn't static (like the classic resin coffee table).

TLDR
------
- Bottle caps sit firmly in HexCap. Install six 4x1.5mm magnets around each hex so they snap together.
- Stick CapHexClip to the wall, and the hexes will snap into those (Tirages dont snap in yet). You only need one CapHexClip per 30-50 bottle caps.
- Be careful how you arrange your magnets. It's very important you align them correctly.

DETAILS
-------
Each hex mount takes one bottle cap. Regular bottle caps go into CapHex_v7 and Tirage (champagne etc) caps go into TirageHex_v16. Each of these needs six magnets glued into the holes along the sides of the hexes. To attach the bottle cap to the mount, just use reasonable force. I have caps from all over the world, and sometimes they're slightly wider (just how they're crimped) so I need to use a small screwdriver or something to encourage them into place. On most, I can just push it in with my fingers. It does take some force to get them in though, and they'll never ever fall out.

The magnets required are 4mm diameter, and the ones I use are 1.5 in length. I buy them on ebay, 200 of them is like $10 or less. You need them to be glued in with alternating polarities around the hexagon. BE CAREFUL how you glue these magnets in - if you get them wrong, you'll have some caps repelling eachother instead of holding eachother together. I use superglue. It takes some time to glue six magnets into each mount, but i just do it while watching TV. If you get the polarities right (alternating, and identical on each hex), then every hex will snap onto every other hex, in 3 of the 6 possible orientations a hexagon can be in.

There is a large hole in the middle of each mount, which is partly to keep it light, but also this allows for the wall clips to work. CapHexClip_v4 will stick to a wall (i just use 3M command strips), and a regular hex mount will push onto that quite firmly. This way I can rearrange the caps on my wall whenever I want, including the 'mount' caps (which was the whole idea of this project).

UPDATE: Tirage cap mounts will not also work with the wall clips (as of v16).

PRINTING
-----
Nothing needs supports. I use transparent PLA for everything. I would recommend using the same colour for all mounts, but you could also colour them to match the cap, or code them to the country they come from or something if you want.

PICTURES
-------
- Two arrangements on my wall of my currently mounted cap collection.
- A close-up of a Tirage cap mounted in its hex mount with magnets.
- One of the wall clips in place. It's a little tricky placing these exactly where you want them, but their orientation on the wall doesn't matter.
- The three clips I have on my wall right now.


TODO
----
- Make a model for cork+cage topper caps.
- Make a model for unpressed regular caps (variation of Tirage size?).

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>soporte para voltage display para una bicicleta electrica</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>anet </p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Sakata+Pla&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Sakata Pla                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

 voltage electric bike

soporte para voltage display para una bicicleta electrica

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Work in progress.  Part of a Hydroponic Control system.</h3>
<p>Developed this independently, but have come across a bit <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:1936196">better execution of the concept</a>.</p>
<h3>Misc Notes</h3>
<ul><li>Uses 2020 extruded aluminum for the Mini-Rack</li>
<li>Mount holes are for a Raspi Zero</li>
<li>SD Extender cable used so can front-load the SD card</li>
<li>Fusion f3z &amp; STEP files included</li>
</ul><h3>Mini-Rack Parts</h3>
<ul><li>4x 170mm</li>
<li>4x 120mm</li>
<li>4x 152mm</li>
<li>8x 2020 End Corner Bracket</li>
</ul><h3>Amazon Parts</h3>
<ul><li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078RHDTFZ?tag=tv-auto-20">IEC 320 C14 Socket</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08C9FDLCY?tag=tv-auto-20">2020 End Corner Bracket Connector</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JMTW1YD?tag=tv-auto-20">Micro SD to SD Card Extension Cable Extender</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078S17FZ5?tag=tv-auto-20">US 3 Pins Power Socket Plug Panel</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00W97RY2O?tag=tv-auto-20">8mm Alloy Steel Hex Bolt Socket Head Cap Screws Black 100 Pcs</a></li>
<li><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XCKQ1M9?tag=tv-auto-20">ELEGOO 4 Channel DC 5V Relay Module</a></li>
</ul></div>
</body></html>

Mini-Rack Enclosure System for Raspi

# Work in progress.  Part of a Hydroponic Control system.
Developed this independently, but have come across a bit [better execution of the concept](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1936196).

## Misc Notes
- Uses 2020 extruded aluminum for the Mini-Rack
- Mount holes are for a Raspi Zero
- SD Extender cable used so can front-load the SD card
- Fusion f3z & STEP files included

## Mini-Rack Parts
- 4x 170mm
- 4x 120mm
- 4x 152mm
- 8x 2020 End Corner Bracket

## Amazon Parts
- [IEC 320 C14 Socket](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078RHDTFZ)
- [2020 End Corner Bracket Connector](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08C9FDLCY)
- [Micro SD to SD Card Extension Cable Extender](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JMTW1YD)
- [US 3 Pins Power Socket Plug Panel](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B078S17FZ5)
- [8mm Alloy Steel Hex Bolt Socket Head Cap Screws Black 100 Pcs](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00W97RY2O)
- [ELEGOO 4 Channel DC 5V Relay Module](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B06XCKQ1M9)

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