They're tall and they print quickly, but which delta 3D printer is the best? Check out our buyer's guide to the best delta 3D printers on the market right now.

Best Delta 3D Printers | All3DP

The Monoprice Delta Pro is a large-format delta 3D printer that offers great print quality, especially when its dialed in. Check out our review to find out if it is worth choosing it over the rest?

Monoprice Delta Pro Review: A First-Rate 3D Printer | All3DP

All3DP speaks to Monoprice about the latest addition to their affordable 3D printing line, now live on Indiegogo.

Monoprice Launches Indiegogo for Mini Delta Printer | All3DP

With the Mini Delta, the company claims to have built “the lowest priced professional quality 3D printer in the world." Join us as we review its specs.

Monoprice MP Mini Delta: Review the Specs | All3DP

Is the Silhouette Alta the perfect entry-level delta 3D printer? Read on as we review the printer’s specs.

Silhouette Alta 3D Printer: Review the Specs | All3DP

FDM printers are much more diverse than just Cartesian 3D printers. Learn about delta, SCARA, belt, CoreXY, H-bot, polar, and more!

FDM 3D Printers Explained: Cartesian, Delta, CoreXY, & More | All3DP

The crazy kids at Tropical Labs have devised a Delta style 3D printer by re-purposing the frame and heating element of a coffee maker.

Coffee Maker Transformed into a Delta 3D Printer | All3DP

You may have heard of delta 3D printers, but what are they really? How do they work? Should you get one? Here are the answers, simply explained.

What is a Delta 3D Printer? - Simply Explained | All3DP

Reviewing the Pharaoh ED 3D printer, with Delta Robot Technology that prints at faster speeds with lower levels of vibration and noise.

Pharaoh ED Review: A 3D Printer Fit For a King? | All3DP

WASP and municipality of Massa Lombarda to begin building a 3D printed sustainable village, made by the world’s biggest Delta 3D printer.

World’s Biggest Delta 3D Printer Builds Eco-Friendly Village | All3DP

Yes, it’s the worlds largest 3D Delta printer. 12 meters high, it‘s capable of printing a whole house. Here’s the latest information.

Biggest 3D Delta Printer Ever: 12 Meters High, Prints Houses | All3DP

The Tevo Little Monster delta 3D printer kit offers a large build volume and interesting features. Let’s review its specs and features.

Tevo Little Monster 3D Printer: Review the Specs | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Permet de prot&#xE9;ger la t&#xE9;l&#xE9;commande de l&apos;alarme de la Freebox delta. A imprimer en TPU sinon elle ne rentrera pas.<br>
J&apos;ai fait cette housse car le partie en plastique qui permet de passer l&apos;anneau en m&#xE9;tal &#xE9;tait cass&#xE9;.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=sunlu+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        sunlu TPU                     </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Housse Telecommande Alarme Freebox Delta

Permet de protéger la télécommande de l'alarme de la Freebox delta. A imprimer en TPU sinon elle ne rentrera pas.
J'ai fait cette housse car le partie en plastique qui permet de passer l'anneau en métal était cassé.


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Cover and upper trigorilla board support for an Anycubic Delta printer.</p>
<p>Those are the things you will find:</p>
<ul><li>STL files for the board upper cover. You need to print 3 corners + 3 straights.</li>
<li>EPS files with all the panels to be laser-cut</li>
<li>Double 40mm fan support to cool the stepper drivers.</li>
</ul><p>Enjoy!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Kossel</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0,2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=BQ+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        BQ PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Anycubic Linear Cover

Cover and upper trigorilla board support for an Anycubic Delta printer.

Those are the things you will find:

-  STL files for the board upper cover. You need to print 3 corners + 3 straights.
- EPS files with all the panels to be laser-cut
- Double 40mm fan support to cool the stepper drivers.

Enjoy!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Driven to update the original hot end due to difficulties clearing jams from the stock end.<br>
The v6 cover (e3dtop) is ducted &amp; narrow enough to allow arms to give full access of the dia150 plate. The mdf was retained to mount the v6 on ( ease the mdf centre hole with proxxon/ dremel)<br>
New mounting brackets (link plate) for balls move them closer to the nozzle plane to keep accuracy. It locates in &amp; is bolted through the mdf. To reduce flex both balls mount on a continuous M3x60 screw cut down to suit, or could use model M3 ball ends bolted through.<br>
Remember to measure your thermistor value at 25C or the hotend indicated temps will not be true at 215C! My settings are now &quot;M305 P1 T93500 B4388 R4700 &quot;<br>
I broke my extruder drive plate finding this out, so have included the plate, &amp; a motor spacer upgrade which allows you to use a M3x16bolt to reduce the plate strain. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">i3 MK3</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>PETG</p></div>
</body></html>

E3D v6 upgrade for fisher delta

Driven to update the original hot end due to difficulties clearing jams from the stock end. 
The v6 cover (e3dtop) is ducted & narrow enough to allow arms to give full access of the dia150 plate. The mdf was retained to mount the v6 on ( ease the mdf centre hole with proxxon/ dremel)
New mounting brackets (link plate) for balls move them closer to the nozzle plane to keep accuracy. It locates in & is bolted through the mdf. To reduce flex both balls mount on a continuous M3x60 screw cut down to suit, or could use model M3 ball ends bolted through.
Remember to measure your thermistor value at 25C or the hotend indicated temps will not be true at 215C! My settings are now "M305 P1 T93500 B4388 R4700 "
I broke my extruder drive plate finding this out, so have included the plate, & a motor spacer upgrade which allows you to use a M3x16bolt to reduce the plate strain. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Ive been printing parts for and refurbishing my older Flsun Kossel mini. One of the parts that was broken was the fan holder for the hotend. This holder is also the mount point for the part cooling fan duct. Turns out that this part file is not on Thingiverse and was not included with the sd card. I spent days looking for the STL to print it and it is just not out there. </p>
<p>This is my recreation of the part. I used a set of calipers and tinker card to recreate it. This unit is a direct replacement for the unit that came on the printer. All the existing nuts and bolts should work on this part. (M3 bolts)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 5</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>40%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic PLA                    </a>

                    Orange
</body></html>

FLSun Kossel Mini Hotend Fan Holder

Ive been printing parts for and refurbishing my older Flsun Kossel mini. One of the parts that was broken was the fan holder for the hotend. This holder is also the mount point for the part cooling fan duct. Turns out that this part file is not on Thingiverse and was not included with the sd card. I spent days looking for the STL to print it and it is just not out there. 

This is my recreation of the part. I used a set of calipers and tinker card to recreate it. This unit is a direct replacement for the unit that came on the printer. All the existing nuts and bolts should work on this part. (M3 bolts)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>MonoPrice Mini DeltaHousing to mount Igus drylin Bushings</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Monoprice</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

MonoPrice Mini Delta Igus drylin Bushings Housing

MonoPrice Mini DeltaHousing to mount Igus drylin Bushings

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I designed this to grind and sharpen carbide tools with a cup CBN wheel because carbide dust is a health hazard.</p>
<p>Upright vacuum cleaner hose attachment to my 8&quot; Variable speed bench grinder. This model has several vent slots at the bottom of the wheel covers. My grinder is sold under many many brand names around the world with slight differences so I included STL files with no holes so perhaps you can scale and drill them to fit your variation. </p>
<p>This mounts by slight flexing around (over) the existing bolts which hold the wheel guards together. I used a step drill to finish the hole diameter.</p>
<p>Print with a flame proof filament and use a flame proof vacuum cleaner with nothing vacuumed up that is flammable. Sparks are hot and stuff can catch on fire if things go wrong.</p>
<p>Print these with a wide brim. Flip on to the flats which make all the surfaces 45 degrees or more vertical so no supports are needed. Push the tubes together and the layer lines will secure the assembly.</p>
<p>Designed in Fusion 360. Printed on a CR10S pro with a custom direct drive mod.<br>
Have fun -Peter</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR10S PRO</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>variable</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+transparent&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic transparent                    </a>

                    transparent
</body></html>

Bench Grinder vacuum cleaner dust attachment duct

I designed this to grind and sharpen carbide tools with a cup CBN wheel because carbide dust is a health hazard.

Upright vacuum cleaner hose attachment to my 8" Variable speed bench grinder. This model has several vent slots at the bottom of the wheel covers. My grinder is sold under many many brand names around the world with slight differences so I included STL files with no holes so perhaps you can scale and drill them to fit your variation. 

This mounts by slight flexing around (over) the existing bolts which hold the wheel guards together. I used a step drill to finish the hole diameter.

Print with a flame proof filament and use a flame proof vacuum cleaner with nothing vacuumed up that is flammable. Sparks are hot and stuff can catch on fire if things go wrong.

Print these with a wide brim. Flip on to the flats which make all the surfaces 45 degrees or more vertical so no supports are needed. Push the tubes together and the layer lines will secure the assembly.

Designed in Fusion 360. Printed on a CR10S pro with a custom direct drive mod. 
Have fun -Peter


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p><strong><em>This is SUPER WIP.  Use at your own risk.</em></strong></p>
<p>This corner is designed to allow for the belt to run vertically, within the groove of the rail and allow for the use of the cuts in &apos;standard&apos; 2020 plates to drive the assembly.  This design also intends to make maintenance work on the corners less painful.</p>
<p>The specific motors I am using are <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQ79Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">here</a>, but this should work with any NEMA 17 with a shaft distance within 20mm. The V3 file contains top and bottom configurations.  The Idler file is intended to be used with two F623ZZ flange bearings.</p></div>
</body></html>

Delta Corners for Vertical Belt Placement (2020)

***This is SUPER WIP.  Use at your own risk.***

This corner is designed to allow for the belt to run vertically, within the groove of the rail and allow for the use of the cuts in 'standard' 2020 plates to drive the assembly.  This design also intends to make maintenance work on the corners less painful.

The specific motors I am using are [here](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQ79Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1), but this should work with any NEMA 17 with a shaft distance within 20mm. The V3 file contains top and bottom configurations.  The Idler file is intended to be used with two F623ZZ flange bearings.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>ita:</p>
<p>2 ventole extra da montare sulla stampane, per migliorare il raffreddamento del pla su stampe di piccole dimensioni..</p>
<p>acquistare ulteriori 2 ventole 4010 24v (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.it/HAWKUNG-Raffreddamento-Connettore-Cuscinetto-Dissipatore/dp/B07VHQZ5BT/ref=sr_1_15?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;crid=IVHAIBNA57DV&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=ventola+24v+40x40&amp;qid=1605180295&amp;sprefix=ventola+24v%2Caps%2C212&amp;sr=8-15&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.it/HAWKUNG-Raffreddamento-Connettore-Cuscinetto-Dissipatore/dp/B07VHQZ5BT/ref=sr_1_15?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&amp;crid=IVHAIBNA57DV&amp;dchild=1&amp;keywords=ventola+24v+40x40&amp;qid=1605180295&amp;sprefix=ventola+24v%2Caps%2C212&amp;sr=8-15</a>) da collegare al cablaggio originale delle ventole della stampante  i fili originali (della mia stampante) di colore giallo (positivo)  e blu (negativo), e saldarli insieme.</p>
<p>fare 2 fori nella struttura dell&apos;estrusore, in modo da avvitare la ventola 1 in modo da fissarla adeguatamente.</p>
<p>le due ventole uniamole hai loro condotti con 2 punti di attack e colla a caldo in modo da fissarle adeguatamente e per ridurre le perdite di aria (vedi foto)</p>
<p>il tutto non &#xE8; molto bello esteticamente, ma abbastanza funzionale!!</p>
<p>eng:</p>
<p>2 extra fans to be mounted on the print, to improve the cooling of the pla on small prints..</p>
<p>buy an additional 2 fans 4010 12v (<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B08H5D6D1X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B08H5D6D1X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a><br>
) to be connected to the original wiring of the printer fans the original (of my printer) yellow (positive) and blue (negative) wires, and weld them together.</p>
<p>make 2 holes in the extrur structure, so as to screw fan 1 so as to fix it properly.</p>
<p>the two fans we have them led with 2 points of attack and hot glue so as to fix them properly and to reduce air leaks (see photo)</p>
<p>the whole thing is not very beautiful aesthetically, but quite functional!!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>flsun qqs</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Pla+Pla&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Pla Pla                    </a>

                    Nerone
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>PLA, NO support</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/3c/12/ff/05/74/IMG_20201027_135412.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/af/25/e9/47/de/IMG_20201027_135417.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/79/7d/0b/ba/00/IMG_20201029_150830.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/55/86/53/5b/cc/IMG_20201029_150843.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/25/89/d4/91/91/IMG_20201027_145520_-_Copia.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/41/d3/41/08/0e/IMG_20201029_144542.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/3f/d2/3f/36/5f/IMG_20201029_144651.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/fc/e2/0c/ec/65/IMG_20201029_144658.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/5e/37/98/a6/03/IMG_20201029_144716.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/7c/ad/6c/7b/c6/IMG_20201029_144628.jpg"></p>
</body></html>

una causa Fan extra Flsun qq-s qq

ita:

2 ventole extra da montare sulla stampane, per migliorare il raffreddamento del pla su stampe di piccole dimensioni..

acquistare ulteriori 2 ventole 4010 24v (https://www.amazon.it/HAWKUNG-Raffreddamento-Connettore-Cuscinetto-Dissipatore/dp/B07VHQZ5BT/ref=sr_1_15?__mk_it_IT=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=IVHAIBNA57DV&dchild=1&keywords=ventola+24v+40x40&qid=1605180295&sprefix=ventola+24v%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-15) da collegare al cablaggio originale delle ventole della stampante  i fili originali (della mia stampante) di colore giallo (positivo)  e blu (negativo), e saldarli insieme.

fare 2 fori nella struttura dell'estrusore, in modo da avvitare la ventola 1 in modo da fissarla adeguatamente.

le due ventole uniamole hai loro condotti con 2 punti di attack e colla a caldo in modo da fissarle adeguatamente e per ridurre le perdite di aria (vedi foto)

il tutto non è molto bello esteticamente, ma abbastanza funzionale!!

eng:

2 extra fans to be mounted on the print, to improve the cooling of the pla on small prints..

buy an additional 2 fans 4010 12v (
https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B08H5D6D1X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
) to be connected to the original wiring of the printer fans the original (of my printer) yellow (positive) and blue (negative) wires, and weld them together.

make 2 holes in the extrur structure, so as to screw fan 1 so as to fix it properly.

the two fans we have them led with 2 points of attack and hot glue so as to fix them properly and to reduce air leaks (see photo)

the whole thing is not very beautiful aesthetically, but quite functional!!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I needed a zero clearance plate so I figured I&apos;d try and print one.  Was not disappointed.  I had to print the plate in two pieces due to the size of my print bed but it glued together without issue.  Since the pics I&apos;ve added a removal hole to the print files.  I also didn&apos;t add the screw height adjustment holds but I have them marked on a template, may add them later with some additional vertical (non-bend) supports.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2DxjZlB?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">i3 MK2S</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.35</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=N%2FA+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        N/A TPU                     </a>

                    N/A
</body></html>

DELTA TABLE SAW ZERO CLEARENCE THROAT PLATE INSERT

I needed a zero clearance plate so I figured I'd try and print one.  Was not disappointed.  I had to print the plate in two pieces due to the size of my print bed but it glued together without issue.  Since the pics I've added a removal hole to the print files.  I also didn't add the screw height adjustment holds but I have them marked on a template, may add them later with some additional vertical (non-bend) supports.



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a standalone single node RotorHazard drone racing lap timer. Intended as a &apos;Personal Timer&apos; for when you want to get out on your own and rip a few practice packs. </p>
<p>The Personal Timer is powered by an onboard 2s 18650 battery pack. With attached BCM for charging and voltage management.</p>
<p>There is no onboard PCB, rather the timer is built &apos;deadbug&apos; style. Following the wiring schematics laid out on the RotorHazard documentation.- <a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/RotorHazard/RotorHazard/blob/master/doc/Hardware%20Setup.md">https://github.com/RotorHazard/RotorHazard/blob/master/doc/Hardware%20Setup.md</a></p>
<p>I would recommend using the fabulous RH_OTA software to configure the Arduino - <a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/szafranski/RH-ota">https://github.com/szafranski/RH-ota</a></p>
<p>Parts required to build - </p>
<p>1 x RaspberryPi Zero W</p>
<p>1 x RX5808 Receiver Module (SPI Enabled)</p>
<p>1 x Arduino Nano</p>
<p>2 x 18650 battery</p>
<p>1 x BCM<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://tinyurl.com/y6x2oftc">https://tinyurl.com/y6x2oftc</a></p>
<p>1 x 3mm bi-color LED (For BCM status)</p>
<p>1 x Power Switch<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://tinyurl.com/y6tzbfzn">https://tinyurl.com/y6tzbfzn</a></p>
<p>1 x shutdown switch with built in status LED<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://tinyurl.com/s5xcwu3">https://tinyurl.com/s5xcwu3</a></p>
<p>1 x 5.5mm 3 pin DC Jack<br><a rel="nofollow" href="http://tiny.cc/wbsi8y">http://tiny.cc/wbsi8y</a></p>
<p>1 x 5V 3cm cooling fan<br><a rel="nofollow" href="http://tiny.cc/rsti8y">http://tiny.cc/rsti8y</a></p>
<p>1 x 100Kohm Resistor</p>
<p>3 x 1Kohm Resistor</p>
<p>1 x NeoPixel Stick<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://tinyurl.com/y2hddtom">https://tinyurl.com/y2hddtom</a></p>
<p>4 x M3 4mm screws (Pi Mounting)</p>
<p>4 x M2 4mm screws (Arduino mounting)</p>
<p>1 x M3 4mm screw (BCM mounting)</p>
<p>4 x M3 6mm screw (Lid mounting)</p>
<p>1 x 5v regulator (Pololu or similar)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>MMU2s</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Amazons+cheapest+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Amazons cheapest PETG                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>If you have multi-material printing capability add in the led diffuser STL in a light filament (preferably white) to diffuse the LED strip.</p></div>
</body></html>

Rotorhazard Drone Racing Personal Lap timer - One Node

This is a standalone single node RotorHazard drone racing lap timer. Intended as a 'Personal Timer' for when you want to get out on your own and rip a few practice packs. 

The Personal Timer is powered by an onboard 2s 18650 battery pack. With attached BCM for charging and voltage management.

There is no onboard PCB, rather the timer is built 'deadbug' style. Following the wiring schematics laid out on the RotorHazard documentation.- https://github.com/RotorHazard/RotorHazard/blob/master/doc/Hardware%20Setup.md

I would recommend using the fabulous RH_OTA software to configure the Arduino - https://github.com/szafranski/RH-ota

Parts required to build - 

1 x RaspberryPi Zero W

1 x RX5808 Receiver Module (SPI Enabled)

1 x Arduino Nano

2 x 18650 battery

1 x BCM 
https://tinyurl.com/y6x2oftc

1 x 3mm bi-color LED (For BCM status)

1 x Power Switch 
https://tinyurl.com/y6tzbfzn

1 x shutdown switch with built in status LED
https://tinyurl.com/s5xcwu3

1 x 5.5mm 3 pin DC Jack
http://tiny.cc/wbsi8y

1 x 5V 3cm cooling fan
http://tiny.cc/rsti8y

1 x 100Kohm Resistor

3 x 1Kohm Resistor

1 x NeoPixel Stick
https://tinyurl.com/y2hddtom

4 x M3 4mm screws (Pi Mounting)

4 x M2 4mm screws (Arduino mounting)

1 x M3 4mm screw (BCM mounting)

4 x M3 6mm screw (Lid mounting)

1 x 5v regulator (Pololu or similar)





<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>drawer for the fence on the delta 36-725T2 table saw</p>
<p>drawer for the right side of the fence is 5&quot; long<br>
drawer for the left side of the fence us 4.75&quot; long<br>
long drawer for the right is 10&quot;</p>
<p>printed with 30% because that&apos;s what my settings were at.</p>
<p>using a brim could help the part not lift off the bed but not necessary. </p>
<p>you will need supports for the long right drawer</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=pla+pla+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        pla pla                     </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

delta 36-725T2 drawer

drawer for the fence on the delta 36-725T2 table saw

drawer for the right side of the fence is 5" long
drawer for the left side of the fence us 4.75" long
long drawer for the right is 10"

printed with 30% because that's what my settings were at.

using a brim could help the part not lift off the bed but not necessary. 

you will need supports for the long right drawer

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Had some issues with a version downloaded here. Didn&apos;t fit properly.<br>
So made a new one.</p>
<p>Added a spot to place a microswitch for Filament detection</p>
<p>For gearbox extruder</p>
<p>16mm bearing<br>
12mm Extruder gear.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Kossel mini (clone)</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.25</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=no+brand+ABS&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        no brand ABS                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Supports needed</p></div>
</body></html>

Kossel Mini Extruder (Gearbox)

Had some issues with a version downloaded here. Didn't fit properly.
So made a new one.

Added a spot to place a microswitch for Filament detection

For gearbox extruder

16mm bearing
12mm Extruder gear.

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