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<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>About</h3>
<p>I&apos;ve always wanted to have a throttle panel for a twin engined plane, and this is my <strong>WIP</strong> design. I&apos;m planning to have dual throttles and reversers, prop levers, and mixture levers; some likely candidates are a couple more levers to the sides for airbrake and flaps, and gear controls.</p>
<p>The gear design on <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4445717">this (not mine) throttle panel</a> I found and built a while ago is a very clean and clever design, but I disliked tha size and shape of the box overall. So I kept the multiplier gear idea and redid it from scratch to my liking.</p>
<p>Design is inspired on B737 and DH8C panels, so it&apos;s  a sort of Frankestein monster in between.</p>
<h3>Updates</h3>
<p>20201108: Added prop levers. Base not yet done, needs modification on throttle_base for placing a couple switches (feathering)</p>
<p>20201114: Finished Prop base, trimmed down cover_grip_prop so it fits better against imperfections on lever2</p>
<p>20201114_2: Added Mixture controls, reuses all parts from prop assembly except lever and grip cover</p>
<h3>Printing tips</h3>
<ul><li>Parts are designed to minimize the amount of supports needed and have as much symmetrical parts as possible. Place the parts on their flat side and use supports anywhere needed.</li>
<li>The holes on <em>support_singleaxis</em> need supports, but clearing them is a little hard)</li>
<li>Infill for axis holders should be 35%, levers at 35 too so center of mass is near the axis, and the remaining parts are fine at 15-20%</li>
</ul><h3>Electronics needed</h3>
<ul><li>Switches:
<ul><li>EC11 rotary encoders</li>
<li>WH148 potentiometers (10K or 5K)</li>
<li>M20 microswitches</li>
</ul></li>
<li>Lots of dupont wires</li>
<li>Arduino Leonardo</li>
</ul><h3>Building tips</h3>
<p>I recommend straping some sponge or cloth on the levers, so they have better grip.</p>
<h3>Software</h3>
<p>Software side can be done with Arduino Joystick Library or MMJoy2. Not done yet</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Artillery Genius</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>check summary</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Geeetech+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Geeetech PLA                    </a>

                    White
</body></html>

throttle panel for flightsim

#About
I've always wanted to have a throttle panel for a twin engined plane, and this is my **WIP** design. I'm planning to have dual throttles and reversers, prop levers, and mixture levers; some likely candidates are a couple more levers to the sides for airbrake and flaps, and gear controls.

The gear design on [this (not mine) throttle panel](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4445717) I found and built a while ago is a very clean and clever design, but I disliked tha size and shape of the box overall. So I kept the multiplier gear idea and redid it from scratch to my liking.

Design is inspired on B737 and DH8C panels, so it's  a sort of Frankestein monster in between.

#Updates
20201108: Added prop levers. Base not yet done, needs modification on throttle_base for placing a couple switches (feathering)

20201114: Finished Prop base, trimmed down cover_grip_prop so it fits better against imperfections on lever2

20201114_2: Added Mixture controls, reuses all parts from prop assembly except lever and grip cover

#Printing tips
* Parts are designed to minimize the amount of supports needed and have as much symmetrical parts as possible. Place the parts on their flat side and use supports anywhere needed.
* The holes on *support_singleaxis* need supports, but clearing them is a little hard)
* Infill for axis holders should be 35%, levers at 35 too so center of mass is near the axis, and the remaining parts are fine at 15-20%

#Electronics needed

* Switches:
  - EC11 rotary encoders
  - WH148 potentiometers (10K or 5K)
  - M20 microswitches
* Lots of dupont wires
* Arduino Leonardo

#Building tips
I recommend straping some sponge or cloth on the levers, so they have better grip.

#Software
Software side can be done with Arduino Joystick Library or MMJoy2. Not done yet

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Dual knob mount for radio management panels or Garmin autopilot panels. Designed for EC11 5 pin rotary encoders with round knob (parts grip by pressing on it).</p>
<p>Buttons on both encoders are not disabled, please note that the upper chassis (chassis2.stl) is 1mm thick on the button area, and either that panel should be replaced by your top cover, or you need to enlarge engranaje2.stl and tubofino.stl according to the added width if you mount the cover on top of it.</p>
<p>If you dont want to use the buttons, ignore the one on the mount and fill the hole for the small dedicated one. Dont remove the chassis2 spacers, they provide junction stability.</p>
<p>Youll need also:</p>
<ul><li>16mm spacers: x4</li>
<li>M3 screws: x8</li>
<li>M3 nuts: x4</li>
<li>M3 washers: x4 (on top of chassis.stl)</li>
<li>EC11 rotary encoders: x2</li>
</ul></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Artillery Genius</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>35%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Geeetech+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Geeetech PLA                    </a>

                    Doesnt matter
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used PLA from Amazon seller Geeetech. Try to keep the friction faces on your printer bed so they come up extra smooth (except tubofino.stl as you can avoid lots of supports and result is fine enough).</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Tips</strong></p>
                <div><p>Some sanding might be needed on the button hole at chassis2.stl</p>
<p>If you dont want to use the buttons, ignore the one on the mount and fill the hole for the small dedicated one. Dont remove the chassis2 spacers, they provide junction stability.</p>
<p>Washers or tiny spacers needed to increase chassis separation by ~0.5mm, as it improves touch feeling.</p></div>
</body></html>

Dual rotary encoder for simulator cockpit

Dual knob mount for radio management panels or Garmin autopilot panels. Designed for EC11 5 pin rotary encoders with round knob (parts grip by pressing on it).

Buttons on both encoders are not disabled, please note that the upper chassis (chassis2.stl) is 1mm thick on the button area, and either that panel should be replaced by your top cover, or you need to enlarge engranaje2.stl and tubofino.stl according to the added width if you mount the cover on top of it.

If you dont want to use the buttons, ignore the one on the mount and fill the hole for the small dedicated one. Dont remove the chassis2 spacers, they provide junction stability.

Youll need also:

* 16mm spacers: x4
* M3 screws: x8
* M3 nuts: x4
* M3 washers: x4 (on top of chassis.stl)
* EC11 rotary encoders: x2

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Remixed 2 things I found on here so I can stack up my 8bitdo SN30 pro controllers. Looks great. I threw up the old SNES logo on the sides for nostalgia.</p>
<p>I remixed the base stand from<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2233195">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2233195</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 5</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Filacube+PLA2&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Filacube PLA2                    </a>

                    Engineering Grey
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>This is actually the first 3d model I have ever made.<br>
I used raft, but it was accident. You shouldnt need.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/b3/f4/bc/00/d2/2020-11-03_15.45.09.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Perfect fit</strong></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/6a/47/39/7d/f1/2020-11-03_15.45.44.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Just for fun</strong></p>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/86/05/94/ea/7a/2020-11-03_10.42.59.jpg"></p>
                <p class="detail-caption"><strong>Prints easy</strong></p>
</body></html>

8bitdo SN30 Pro+Dual SNES Switch Controller Stand

Remixed 2 things I found on here so I can stack up my 8bitdo SN30 pro controllers. Looks great. I threw up the old SNES logo on the sides for nostalgia.

I remixed the base stand from 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2233195

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a stand designed for the Ableton Push 2 controller. It fits many other controllers and even laptops as well.</p>
<p>It was designed to fit sideways on the bed of an Ender 5. Printing the model on its side gives better strength and, in my opinion, a better finish. </p>
<p>The stand allows for a 20 degrees viewing angle. It&apos;s very rigid and can probably carry more than 10kg of weight.</p>
<p>Required parts:</p>
<ul><li>8 x M3 16mm or 20mm DIN 912 bolts.</li>
</ul><p>16mm bolts will be fully recessed in the stand. 20mm will stick out as shown in the photos. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 5</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50% gyroid</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=123-3D+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        123-3D PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used tree supports for the little tabbed extrusions, but it&apos;s not strictly necessary. Probably prints fine without it, but I haven&apos;t tested it.</p>
<p>The model was optimized for 0.2mm layer height.</p></div>
</body></html>

Ableton Push 2 stand

This is a stand designed for the Ableton Push 2 controller. It fits many other controllers and even laptops as well.

It was designed to fit sideways on the bed of an Ender 5. Printing the model on its side gives better strength and, in my opinion, a better finish. 

The stand allows for a 20 degrees viewing angle. It's very rigid and can probably carry more than 10kg of weight.

Required parts:
- 8 x M3 16mm or 20mm DIN 912 bolts.

16mm bolts will be fully recessed in the stand. 20mm will stick out as shown in the photos. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is my model of the Garmin GFC 500 autopilot module.<br>
I used this to build an autopilot panel for MSFS2020.</p>
<p>I&apos;ve included all the individual parts (box, buttons, knobs) - both the STL and FreeCAD files.<br>
I&apos;ve also added the sketch for Arduino Leonardo (code not optimized, so please don&apos;t judge ;).</p>
<p>Parts used in my build:</p>
<ul><li>Arduino Leonardo</li>
<li>Simple Push Button Switches</li>
<li>Rotary encoders - Push Button &amp; 20 pulse Continuous Rotation (These are not the rotary encoder modules, but the standalone rotary encoders themselves which doesn&apos;t come mounted to a PCB)</li>
</ul></div>
</body></html>

Garmin GFC 500 Autopilot Module

This is my model of the Garmin GFC 500 autopilot module.
I used this to build an autopilot panel for MSFS2020.

I've included all the individual parts (box, buttons, knobs) - both the STL and FreeCAD files.
I've also added the sketch for Arduino Leonardo (code not optimized, so please don't judge ;).

Parts used in my build:
- Arduino Leonardo
- Simple Push Button Switches
- Rotary encoders - Push Button & 20 pulse Continuous Rotation (These are not the rotary encoder modules, but the standalone rotary encoders themselves which doesn't come mounted to a PCB)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>LCD display 16 simultaneous servo controller - Arduino Nano</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XE3fmpwRJA0">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XE3fmpwRJA0</a></p>
<p>Disaster of Puppets<br>
YouTube: <a rel="nofollow" href="Http://disasterofpuppets.com">Http://disasterofpuppets.com</a><br>
Twitch: <a rel="nofollow" href="Https://twitch.tv/disasterofpuppets">Https://twitch.tv/disasterofpuppets</a></p>
<p>Parts required</p>
<ul><li>Arduino Nano</li>
<li>16 Ch 12-bit PWM Servo Shield Motor Driver I2C Module PCA9685 For Arduino P2</li>
<li>2004 20x4 Blue HD44780 Character LCD IIC/I2C Serial Interface Module for Arduino</li>
<li>3D files</li>
</ul><p>Wiring diagram and code available here:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/DisasterofPuppets/LCDServoController">https://github.com/DisasterofPuppets/LCDServoController</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR-10S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Generic PLA</p></div>
</body></html>

16 Servo Controller with LCD

LCD display 16 simultaneous servo controller - Arduino Nano

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XE3fmpwRJA0

Disaster of Puppets 
YouTube: Http://disasterofpuppets.com 
Twitch: Https://twitch.tv/disasterofpuppets

Parts required

- Arduino Nano
- 16 Ch 12-bit PWM Servo Shield Motor Driver I2C Module PCA9685 For Arduino P2
- 2004 20x4 Blue HD44780 Character LCD IIC/I2C Serial Interface Module for Arduino
- 3D files

Wiring diagram and code available here:
https://github.com/DisasterofPuppets/LCDServoController

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Throttle Quadrant with Reverse Thrust for Flight Simulator</h3>
<h3>Inspired on Cessna Caravan - One truly amazing aircraft!</h3>
<p>This throttle quadrant uses three analog ports in an Arduino to handle throttle, propeller and cutoff/mixture. It is fully compatible with the new Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020. The reverse thrust is toggled as a &quot;virtual&quot; button when the potentiometer reaches a threshold.</p>
<p>This project uses two screws and nuts from Nut Job so we can attach the quadrant to the edge of a table.</p>
<p>The Arduino I used for this project is the Arduino Pro Micro with <strong>ATmega32U4</strong> chip <ins><strong>(very important!!)</strong></ins>. This chip allows us to use the &quot;Joystick&quot; library (see code below) as it already has a USB HID feature.</p>
<p>If you want to use an Arduino Uno or other that uses the <strong>ATmega328P</strong> chip the code below <ins><strong>won&apos;t work</strong></ins>, but it&apos;s possible to adapt it with minimal changes, please refer to the UnoJoy library and its examples:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://code.google.com/archive/p/unojoy/">https://code.google.com/archive/p/unojoy/</a></p>
<h3>Extra Materials Needed (that are not printed):</h3>
<ul><li>9 screws for base case
<blockquote>
<p><em>- The screws I used were 3.5 mm self-tapping that I had spare at home, you may need to tweak the holes to use a different screw.</em></p>
</blockquote></li>
<li>3 screws to attach each top to the corresponding lever
<blockquote>
<p><em>- These were also designed for the same screws as above (3.5 mm self-tapping). You may need to tweak the holes to use a different screw</em></p>
</blockquote></li>
<li>1 ballpen spring; <em>(for the reverse actuator)</em></li>
<li>3 B10K potentiometers
<blockquote>
<p><em>The potentiometers attach to the case using the nut provided with them (M6?). Do not use a washer.</em></p>
</blockquote></li>
<li>Arduino with <strong>ATmega32U4</strong> chip (Pro Micro, Leonardo, etc.)</li>
<li>Wires/Soldering Iron/DuPont Pins</li>
</ul><h3>How to Print:</h3>
<ul><li>
<p>The case parts are designed to use support only on the potentiometer stand and table attachment holes. For both of these a standard &quot;tree&quot; support from Cura will work.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><em>- For Cases 1 and 4 make sure you print them on their side with the solid face down</em><br><em>- For Cases 2 and 3 make sure you print them on their side it with the lever slot facing up.</em><br><em>- If you see supports other than the ones I mentioned, you&apos;re probably using wrong orientation.</em></p>
</blockquote>
</li>
<li>
<p>Print all the lever sideways.</p>
<blockquote>
<p><em>- The throttle lever needs a support on the potentiometer hole</em><br><em>- The propeller lever needs a support on half of it&apos;s extension so you can print the bended portion, make sure that bend is facing up</em><br><em>- The cutoff/mixture lever also needs a support on half of it&apos;s extension for the bended portion, make sure the bend is facing up</em><br><em>- The reverse lever is printed with the handle (large cylinder) facing up, you&apos;ll need TWO of these for our Throttle Quadrant. You&apos;ll need a support on almost all the extension. You might want to use a &quot;brim&quot; for this one.</em></p>
</blockquote>
</li>
<li>The bolt and nut are printed vertically - This is important so the thread works! - You&apos;ll need two of each.</li>
</ul><h3>Assembly:</h3>
<p>I honestly didn&apos;t give that part a lot of thought so it might be a little tricky with all the wires soldered...my bad, but it is possible and it works.</p>
<p>1) Solder all wires to the potentiometers, make sure you take their orientation into account (the cutoff/mixture pot is facing the opposite way).</p>
<p>2) Get the wires thru the hole on Case 1.</p>
<p>3) Attach the pots to their stand using the nut that came with them. Pay attention to the orientation.</p>
<p>4) Attach each lever to their corresponding top using the screws.</p>
<p>5) Insert the spring on the bottom slot of the throttle lever. There&apos;s a small round notch where the spring fits.</p>
<p>6) Attach the two reverse lever parts under the spring, bringing them inside the throttle lever slot. This might require some sanding. Make sure the reverse lever is moving up and down rather effortlessly and the spring is workin as it should. - The print slot is highlighted in RED in the project pictures.</p>
<p>7) For the Case start with #4 and the cutoff lever. The lever attaches to the potentiometer by pressure fit. Then you can add Case #3 and the 3 screws. These screws are supposed to be tightened as needed. Test if the lever is moving up and down freely but not loosely. You need to have friction between the lever and the slot so it remains in the position you put in otherwise its own weight will bring it down.</p>
<p>8) Work your way up until Case #1</p>
<p>9) Solder the wires to the Arduino and connect it to the computer for uploading the sketch file. You&apos;re done!</p>
<h3>Code:</h3>
<p>0) Make sure you download it with the Things files.</p>
<p>1) You&apos;ll need to install the libraries mentioned in the code.</p>
<p>2) Please uncomment the &quot;Serial.print&quot; items under the &quot;potentiometers&quot; function so we can get the calibration values. Also uncomment the serial port initialization under &quot;setup&quot;</p>
<p>3) Upload the code to your Arduino and open the &quot;Serial Plotter&quot;. Identify which potentiometer is assigned to each lever and move them up and down. Take note of the respective pot values and replace in the calibration part.</p>
<p>4) Make sure to <strong>re-comment</strong> everything you <strong>uncommented</strong> previously.</p>
<p>5) Re-upload the file with the correct calibration. You can use the standard Windows Joystick calibration tool to check if it&apos;s working. It will show a joystick called &quot;Arduino Leonardo&quot;.</p>
<p>6) Assign the respective axes and button to &quot;Toggle Reverse Thrust&quot; on MSFS2020 and enjoy!</p>
<h3>If I forgot something or you find an easier way of doing any of these steps let me know! I hope you enjoy it!</h3></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=3D+Fila+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        3D Fila PLA                    </a>

                    White
</body></html>

Throttle Quadrant for Flight Simulator

# Throttle Quadrant with Reverse Thrust for Flight Simulator

### Inspired on Cessna Caravan - One truly amazing aircraft!

This throttle quadrant uses three analog ports in an Arduino to handle throttle, propeller and cutoff/mixture. It is fully compatible with the new Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020. The reverse thrust is toggled as a "virtual" button when the potentiometer reaches a threshold.

This project uses two screws and nuts from Nut Job so we can attach the quadrant to the edge of a table.

The Arduino I used for this project is the Arduino Pro Micro with **ATmega32U4** chip <ins>**(very important!!)**</ins>. This chip allows us to use the "Joystick" library (see code below) as it already has a USB HID feature.

If you want to use an Arduino Uno or other that uses the **ATmega328P** chip the code below <ins>**won't work**</ins>, but it's possible to adapt it with minimal changes, please refer to the UnoJoy library and its examples:
https://code.google.com/archive/p/unojoy/

### Extra Materials Needed (that are not printed):

 - 9 screws for base case
 > *- The screws I used were 3.5 mm self-tapping that I had spare at home, you may need to tweak the holes to use a different screw.*
 - 3 screws to attach each top to the corresponding lever
> *- These were also designed for the same screws as above (3.5 mm self-tapping). You may need to tweak the holes to use a different screw*
 - 1 ballpen spring; *(for the reverse actuator)*
 - 3 B10K potentiometers
>*The potentiometers attach to the case using the nut provided with them (M6?). Do not use a washer.*
 - Arduino with **ATmega32U4** chip (Pro Micro, Leonardo, etc.)
 - Wires/Soldering Iron/DuPont Pins

### How to Print:

- The case parts are designed to use support only on the potentiometer stand and table attachment holes. For both of these a standard "tree" support from Cura will work.
> *- For Cases 1 and 4 make sure you print them on their side with the solid face down*
> *- For Cases 2 and 3 make sure you print them on their side it with the lever slot facing up.*
> *- If you see supports other than the ones I mentioned, you're probably using wrong orientation.*

- Print all the lever sideways.
>*- The throttle lever needs a support on the potentiometer hole*
>*- The propeller lever needs a support on half of it's extension so you can print the bended portion, make sure that bend is facing up*
>*- The cutoff/mixture lever also needs a support on half of it's extension for the bended portion, make sure the bend is facing up*
>*- The reverse lever is printed with the handle (large cylinder) facing up, you'll need TWO of these for our Throttle Quadrant. You'll need a support on almost all the extension. You might want to use a "brim" for this one.*

- The bolt and nut are printed vertically - This is important so the thread works! - You'll need two of each.


### Assembly:
I honestly didn't give that part a lot of thought so it might be a little tricky with all the wires soldered...my bad, but it is possible and it works.

1) Solder all wires to the potentiometers, make sure you take their orientation into account (the cutoff/mixture pot is facing the opposite way).

2) Get the wires thru the hole on Case 1.

3) Attach the pots to their stand using the nut that came with them. Pay attention to the orientation.

4) Attach each lever to their corresponding top using the screws.

5) Insert the spring on the bottom slot of the throttle lever. There's a small round notch where the spring fits.

6) Attach the two reverse lever parts under the spring, bringing them inside the throttle lever slot. This might require some sanding. Make sure the reverse lever is moving up and down rather effortlessly and the spring is workin as it should. - The print slot is highlighted in RED in the project pictures.

7) For the Case start with #4 and the cutoff lever. The lever attaches to the potentiometer by pressure fit. Then you can add Case #3 and the 3 screws. These screws are supposed to be tightened as needed. Test if the lever is moving up and down freely but not loosely. You need to have friction between the lever and the slot so it remains in the position you put in otherwise its own weight will bring it down.

8) Work your way up until Case #1

9) Solder the wires to the Arduino and connect it to the computer for uploading the sketch file. You're done!

### Code:

0) Make sure you download it with the Things files.

1) You'll need to install the libraries mentioned in the code.

2) Please uncomment the "Serial.print" items under the "potentiometers" function so we can get the calibration values. Also uncomment the serial port initialization under "setup"

3) Upload the code to your Arduino and open the "Serial Plotter". Identify which potentiometer is assigned to each lever and move them up and down. Take note of the respective pot values and replace in the calibration part.

4) Make sure to **re-comment** everything you **uncommented** previously.

5) Re-upload the file with the correct calibration. You can use the standard Windows Joystick calibration tool to check if it's working. It will show a joystick called "Arduino Leonardo".

6) Assign the respective axes and button to "Toggle Reverse Thrust" on MSFS2020 and enjoy!

### If I forgot something or you find an easier way of doing any of these steps let me know! I hope you enjoy it!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Enjoy...</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/1zPVfHZHSqQ">https://youtu.be/1zPVfHZHSqQ</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>
</body></html>

Ender 3 V2 Control Knob (Prusa Style)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a controller holder for xbox one (series x) and nintendo switch controller. </p>
<p>You need:</p>
<p>2 screws or nails with max &#xD8; 4mm</p>
<p>... a wall ...</p>
<p>other Thing:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4640139">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4640139</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Giantarm+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Giantarm PLA                    </a>

                    Yellow
</body></html>

wall-mounted controller holder

This is a controller holder for xbox one (series x) and nintendo switch controller. 

You need:

2 screws or nails with max Ø 4mm

... a wall ...

other Thing: 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4640139

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just a simpler remix of the stick created by Akaki, I think it is a bit easier to print and less material expensive. The downside of this design is that you can only use the springiness of the stick itself to feel the center SO MAKE IT THE LIGHTER YOU CAN GO.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">Prusa Clone</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0-10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Geeetech+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Geeetech PLA                    </a>

                    Grey - Blue
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Printed everything with<br>
0.4 mm nozzle<br>
0.45 mm line width<br>
0.2 mm layer heigth<br>
3 perimeters<br>
10% grid infill for thumbstick grip and 0% for the rest</p>
<p>The lighter you print and the better is to use because it centers the stick more easily, so I would try also 2 perimeters at least for the upper grip.<br>
I designed the connector of the length I wanted but if you want you can adjust it in Meshmixer or in Fusion360 (also some slicing software as Ideamaker let you cut your object the size you want).<br>
If you make the connector 2/3 cm shorter it would probably center better on the stick but you would have less angle to play with.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<div><p>Everything should fit but the hole size as ever is a coin flip. </p>
<p>I designed it 4 mm hole diameter and 3.8 the cylinder it goes in from the connector. </p>
<p>If does not fit, just take a 3.5/4 mm drillbit and make it larger (not too much should fit tight).</p>
<p>If you want to protect more the stick, just sand paper a bit the thumbstick grip or put some<br>
black tape around the stick before inserting the adapter.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<div><p>Just took the thumbstick grip made a cylinder with a hole and designed the simple connector between lower grip and upper grip (which instead is the original).</p></div>
</body></html>

Joystick HOTAS for Xbox 360 Controller

Just a simpler remix of the stick created by Akaki, I think it is a bit easier to print and less material expensive. The downside of this design is that you can only use the springiness of the stick itself to feel the center SO MAKE IT THE LIGHTER YOU CAN GO.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Here are a couple of simple joystick covers I designed for the Xbox One Elite Controller. These are designed to fit over the existing grips. Make sure to use TPU.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>35%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=YOYI+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        YOYI TPU                     </a>

                    Transparent Green
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div></div>
</body></html>

Joystick Covers for Xbox Elite controller

Here are a couple of simple joystick covers I designed for the Xbox One Elite Controller. These are designed to fit over the existing grips. Make sure to use TPU.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Playing race games is fun but, playing it on a racewheel is even more fun! For example: the Logitech g920 is a great beginners wheel! BUT, there is a downside! If you are a person that plays along friends or have the need to look around you car, you&apos;re missing 2 major (THINGS), and that&apos;s a headphonejack and a thumbstick. so you have to have youre controller right next to you.</p>
<p>that&apos;s why I came up with this solution;<br>
a simple but practical solution!</p>
<p>Simply attach the mount via a M8 bold/nut to your Wheel stand end tadaa!<br>
Ok not every one have a wheel stand, but hey feel free to ad something that you can clamp on you desk or so. the tricky part is the gamepad holder anyway.</p>
<p>You have to trim of all the supports (don&apos;t forget the support between the small tabs that holds you controller in place) and make sure your headphone/charge cable fit inside the cable management tabs! I make those a bit snug on purpose, so everyone can customize it for their own cable thickness. But I included an STL file without the cable management!</p>
<p>I hope that I made some one happy with this.</p>
<p>Good luck and happy printing!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Jupiter+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Jupiter PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Cura:</p>
<p>Layer Height: 0.2mm<br>
Wall Line Count 5<br>
top/bottom layer 4</p>
<p>Infill Densety 50%<br>
Infill Line Distance 2.4mm<br>
Infil Pattern Cubic</p></div>
</body></html>

XBOX ONE Gamepad Mount

Playing race games is fun but, playing it on a racewheel is even more fun! For example: the Logitech g920 is a great beginners wheel! BUT, there is a downside! If you are a person that plays along friends or have the need to look around you car, you're missing 2 major (THINGS), and that's a headphonejack and a thumbstick. so you have to have youre controller right next to you.

that's why I came up with this solution;
a simple but practical solution!

Simply attach the mount via a M8 bold/nut to your Wheel stand end tadaa!  
Ok not every one have a wheel stand, but hey feel free to ad something that you can clamp on you desk or so. the tricky part is the gamepad holder anyway.

You have to trim of all the supports (don't forget the support between the small tabs that holds you controller in place) and make sure your headphone/charge cable fit inside the cable management tabs! I make those a bit snug on purpose, so everyone can customize it for their own cable thickness. But I included an STL file without the cable management!

I hope that I made some one happy with this.


Good luck and happy printing!

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