The Sintratec S1 is a desktop-sized SLS 3D printer with a surprisingly large build chamber. Review the specs and price.

Sintratec S1 SLS 3D Printer: Review the Specs | All3DP

Research team in France collaborating with archaeologists to use a Robotic Blimp to explore a mysterious new chamber in the Giza pyramids.

Robotic Blimp to Explore Hidden Chambers of Great Pyramid | All3DP

If you want reproducible results for your 3D printed metal parts, you’ll need the perfect mix of gasses in the print chamber. Linde now offers a new solution for better metal prints.

Linde Just Solved One of Metal 3D Printing Problems | All3DP

The Zortrax Inventure is a new dual extrusion 3D printer that is both intelligent and accessible. This Polish 3D printer includes a Dissolvable Support System Station and a completely enclosed and stable heated print chamber.

Zortrax Inventure: Smart, Simple, and Super Convenient | All3DP

The effortless flexibility of the Peopoly Moai gets supersized for the Moai 200 -- a 200 mm-cubed SLA beast with a heated chamber and sundry other new features. Read on as we break down the specs.

Peopoly Moai 200: Review the Specs | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div>45&#xB0; mounting bracket for a UV light found on Amazon.
To make a cheap DIY curing chamber from a cardboard box:
<pre><code>Cut out a rectangle about 125mm / 5&quot; wide
Line box with aluminum foil
Add optional turntable to cure all around</code></pre>
Enjoy!
Gamla 3D Workshop
PS: Please consider following and &quot;Tip Designer&quot; if you find my designs useful :) </div>
</body></html>

UV Light Bracket for DIY Curing Box

45° mounting bracket for a UV light found on Amazon.

To make a cheap DIY curing chamber from a cardboard box:

    Cut out a rectangle about 125mm / 5" wide
    Line box with aluminum foil
    Add optional turntable to cure all around

Enjoy!

Gamla 3D Workshop

PS: Please consider following and "Tip Designer" if you find my designs useful :) 


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div>my attempt to make hop up chamber for my UMP that having broken chamber and acquiring replacement is too pricey as it&apos;s not found locally
for now it still have problem in semi where you have to delay another shot, if you tap it faster, the gun will having inconsistent result with 2nd shot but normal at 3rd, and having low powered again in 4th and normal in 5th and so on
i put skp file in case someone wanna correct it and i will appreciate any constructive input due i just 3 month with 3d print
for measurement, in fact this is close to M4 hop up chamber because i use m4 nozzle too</div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
Printer: 
 <div>AnyCubic 4Max</div>
 
 Rafts: 
 <div>Doesn&apos;t Matter</div>
 
 Supports: 
 <div>Yes</div>
 
 Resolution: 
 <div>0.1</div>
 
 Infill: 
 <div>50%</div>
 
 Filament: 
 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=eSun++PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
 eSun PLA </a>

 any
 
 Notes: 
 <div>i use PETG but looks like the slider brige is too weak for it</div>
</body></html>

Airsoft hop up chamber for Double Eagle / G&G UMP/UMG (DE M89)

my attempt to make hop up chamber for my UMP that having broken chamber and acquiring replacement is too pricey as it's not found locally

for now it still have problem in semi where you have to delay another shot, if you tap it faster, the gun will having inconsistent result with 2nd shot but normal at 3rd, and having low powered again in 4th and normal in 5th and so on

i put skp file in case someone wanna correct it and i will appreciate any constructive input due i just 3 month with 3d print

for measurement, in fact this is close to M4 hop up chamber because i use m4 nozzle too

If you want to put two different kinds of food down for your animals (dry/moist catfood, seeds/water etc) here&apos;s a dual-chamber pet bowl suitable for smaller pets such as cats, small dogs etc. &#xA0;Make sure it is washed THOROUGHLY before first use and every time it isused. &#xA0;Animals have delicate stomachs!

Dual-Chamber Pet Bowl

If you want to put two different kinds of food down for your animals (dry/moist catfood, seeds/water etc) here's a dual-chamber pet bowl suitable for smaller pets such as cats, small dogs etc.  Make sure it is washed THOROUGHLY before first use and every time it isused.  Animals have delicate stomachs!

This cover can be fixed and removed very quickly to the ultimaker 2. It requires no hardware modifications. Can even be closed and opened when the utlimaker 2 is running. Cost: a few cents. To create an heated chamber you will need a front door (not part of this project, many solutions available on the forums). To use an heated chamber&#xA0; monitor the temperature inside the Ultimaker. 
 The electrical components are inside so you do not want to overheat and 
 bake your jewel. See the forums for use and discussion on the heated chamber concept. See a video of the cover in action <iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/0bcDzmIKIJE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Cover and uncover the ultimaker2 (one handed...) <iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/-z13mIsvQEI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Effectiveness: The cover is not air tight, but being a double sheet with air gaps it makes for a nice thermal insulation. How to make and install the cover. (see pictures) 1. Print the parts. Use support to print the coverHolder with the tubes up. 2. join two A4 sheets along the long edge using adhesive tape. Repeat 4 times to have 4&#xA0;&#xA0; sheets 2x1 A4. 3. fold the 2x1 A4 sheets along the long edge each 20mm to create an accordion fold. Repeat 4 times to have 4 accordion sheets. 4. fix the 4 accordion sheets on top of the Ultimaker2 with adhesive tape. (See pictures) 5. place the coverHolders (2x) on the Ultimaker2 print head 6. insert the first 2 accordion sheets below the cover holder 7. use clip2 and clip1 to fix the edges of the accordion sheets 8. insert the upper two accordion sheets over the cover holder 9. fix the upper accordion sheets with 2x clip 1. The cover holder /print head is not fixed to the sheets. It has to be able to slide freely in X and Y direction. Study the picture and the video. The sheets are fixed to the other sheets only on the edges with the clips. the clips do not have to hinder the printhead movement. Clip2 is to fix on the lower sheets to avoid collision when the print head goes close to the border. Clip 1 are to fix the two upper accordion sheets. Feel free to try and modify, but if you plan to use this Idea for commercial purposes please ask the author for a license. Please give credit to the author if you use this design. Thanks!

Ulticover the Ultimaker2 Cover - Enclosure

This cover can be fixed and removed very quickly to the ultimaker 2. It requires no hardware modifications.Can even be closed and opened when the utlimaker 2 is running.Cost: a few cents.To create an heated chamber you will need a front door (not part of this project, many solutions available on the forums).To use an heated chamber  monitor the temperature inside the Ultimaker.
 The electrical components are inside so you do not want to overheat and
 bake your jewel. See the forums for use and discussion on the heated chamber concept.See a video of the cover in actionCover and uncover the ultimaker2 (one handed...)Effectiveness: The cover is not air tight, but being a double sheet with air gaps it makes for a nice thermal insulation.How to make and install the cover. (see pictures)1. Print the parts. Use support to print the coverHolder with the tubes up.2. join two A4 sheets along the long edge using adhesive tape. Repeat 4 times to have 4   sheets 2x1 A4.3. fold the 2x1 A4 sheets along the long edge each 20mm to create an accordion fold. Repeat 4 times to have 4 accordion sheets.4. fix the 4 accordion sheets on top of the Ultimaker2 with adhesive tape. (See pictures)5. place the coverHolders (2x) on the Ultimaker2 print head6. insert the first 2 accordion sheets below the cover holder7. use clip2 and clip1 to fix the edges of the accordion sheets8. insert the upper two accordion sheets over the cover holder9. fix the upper accordion sheets with 2x clip 1.The cover holder /print head is not fixed to the sheets. It has to be able to slide freely in X and Y direction. Study the picture and the video. The sheets are fixed to the other sheets only on the edges with the clips. the clips do not have to hinder the printhead movement. Clip2 is to fix on the lower sheets to avoid collision when the print head goes close to the border. Clip 1 are to fix the two upper accordion sheets.Feel free to try and modify, but if you plan to use this Idea for commercial purposes please ask the author for a license. Please give credit to the author if you use this design.Thanks!


This enclosure is designed to work with an activated carbon air filter plus an exhaust vent with activated carbon and a nanoparticulate filter (better than HEPA). Put a thermometer inside the build chamber and adjust the amount of activated carbon filtration media to adjust the temperature inside the build chamber. The more filtration media, the less exhaust airflow, the higher the temperature. For ABS prints that don&apos;t crack, curl, nor warp, the temperature inside the build chamber should be 100 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. A free downloadable 3d printed activated carbon air filter plus an exhaust vent with activated carbon and a nanoparticulate filter are available from <a href="http://www.3dprintfilemarket.com" rel="external">http://www.3dprintfilemarket.com</a> . Unlike other designs that use expensive cartridges that cost $40 per month to operate, this design uses affordable activated carbon granules and surgical masks that cost only pennies per month of operation. Other enclosure designs also require expensive laser cutters. This design is entirely 3d printed and doesn&apos;t require any laser cutting. Enjoy! Instructions Note: each numbered block of instructions match with a numbered illustration in the images section. 1. Go to the hardware store and have them cut some 2 mm acrylic panels for you; Qty 2 x 200 mm x 320 mm for front and back of hood, Qty 2 x 200 mm x 328 mm for sides of hood, Qty 1 x 320 mm x 328 mm for top of hood, and Qty 1 x 316 mm x 320 mm for the removable front window. On the back of hood 2 mm acrylic panel, on the bottom of the panel, measure 50 mm from the left edge and cut a 40 mm wide x 80 mm tall hole through the panel. On this same panel, on the top of the panel, measure 80 mm from the left edge and 15 mm from the top edge for the position of the 40 mm fan. Mark 4 points that are the corners of a square that is 32 mm on each side. Using a 7/64 inch drill bit, drill out the 4 marked points. In the center of these 4 holes, use a compass to draw a circle with a 25 mm diameter. Using your smallest drill bit, drill all along the circumference. Then, using a small electric saw or a very sharp hobby knife, cut out this 25 mm diameter hole. &#xA0; &#xA0; 2. Hold 2 acrylic panels and a corner fastener together and mark all the points to drill on the acrylic panels in order to match with the corner fasteners. Do this for all the panels and corner fasteners. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill everywhere that you&apos;ve marked. Use a needdle nose plier and an adjustable wrench to bolt all the acrylic panels to the corner fasteners. Seal the edges with silicone caulk. &#xA0; &#xA0; 3. Attach panel hangers and panel clip to your Ultimaker. &#xA0; &#xA0; 4. On top of removable front window panel, mark a point 15 mm from the top and 15 mm from the left. Mark another point 15 mm from the top and 15 mm from the right. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill through these marks. Screw in 2 bolts into these holes but do not allow the bolt ends to go all the way through and protrude from the panel. &#xA0; &#xA0; 5. Slip the removable front window panel into the bottom panel clip on your Ultimaker. Mark where you would have to drill in order for the panel to hang on the two panel hangers attached to your Ultimaker. Use a 5/16 inch drill bit to drill through these marks. At least 6 mm below these holes, use a compass to draw a 22 mm diameter circle. Using your smallest drill bit, drill many holes all along the circumference of this circle. Use a hobby knife or saw to cut out this circle. Cut an 8 mm wide channel from the top of this circle to the 5/16 inch hole you drilled right above this circle.&#xA0; &#xA0; &#xA0; HINTS; If the bolts are too tight, oil them with vegetable oil before screwing them in. If the panel hangers and panel clips don&apos;t fit, soften them with a heat gun and make them fit. These pieces are a tight fit on purpose. If the pieces are looser, then they will shake apart while the Ultimaker is printing. &#xA0; If the removable front panel window doesn&apos;t fit on the panel hangers, do not use a bigger drill bit. Doing so will cause the panel to rattle while the Ultimaker is printing. Just insert your 5/16 inch drill bit and wiggle it around while drilling for a minute or two. This will loosen it enough to fit, but not too loose so that it rattles. &#xA0; &#xA0; Print these pieces in ABS. To prevent cracking, warping and curling while printing these pieces before you&apos;ve built your enclosure, create a temporary enclosure with plastic wrap and electrical tape. &#xA0; &#xA0; All pieces are printed without supports exept for UltimakerCase3.stl . Print UltimakerCase3.stl with supports. Remove support structures with a needle nose plier before use. Update 6/27/14 The hood on top of the Ultimaker was a bit wobbly, so I added reinforcements to the seams between the front and back pieces with the side pieces of the hood. The updated build plate is UM2FullPlateA2.stl . Be sure to glue these reinforcements to the acrylic plates.

Ultimaker 2 Enclosure With Air Filter For Perfect ABS Prints

This enclosure is designed to work with an activated carbon air filter plus an exhaust vent with activated carbon and a nanoparticulate filter (better than HEPA). Put a thermometer inside the build chamber and adjust the amount of activated carbon filtration media to adjust the temperature inside the build chamber. The more filtration media, the less exhaust airflow, the higher the temperature. For ABS prints that don't crack, curl, nor warp, the temperature inside the build chamber should be 100 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit. A free downloadable 3d printed activated carbon air filter plus an exhaust vent with activated carbon and a nanoparticulate filter are available from http://www.3dprintfilemarket.com . Unlike other designs that use expensive cartridges that cost $40 per month to operate, this design uses affordable activated carbon granules and surgical masks that cost only pennies per month of operation. Other enclosure designs also require expensive laser cutters. This design is entirely 3d printed and doesn't require any laser cutting. Enjoy! InstructionsNote: each numbered block of instructions match with a numbered illustration in the images section. 1. Go to the hardware store and have them cut some 2 mm acrylic panels for you; Qty 2 x 200 mm x 320 mm for front and back of hood, Qty 2 x 200 mm x 328 mm for sides of hood, Qty 1 x 320 mm x 328 mm for top of hood, and Qty 1 x 316 mm x 320 mm for the removable front window. On the back of hood 2 mm acrylic panel, on the bottom of the panel, measure 50 mm from the left edge and cut a 40 mm wide x 80 mm tall hole through the panel. On this same panel, on the top of the panel, measure 80 mm from the left edge and 15 mm from the top edge for the position of the 40 mm fan. Mark 4 points that are the corners of a square that is 32 mm on each side. Using a 7/64 inch drill bit, drill out the 4 marked points. In the center of these 4 holes, use a compass to draw a circle with a 25 mm diameter. Using your smallest drill bit, drill all along the circumference. Then, using a small electric saw or a very sharp hobby knife, cut out this 25 mm diameter hole.   2. Hold 2 acrylic panels and a corner fastener together and mark all the points to drill on the acrylic panels in order to match with the corner fasteners. Do this for all the panels and corner fasteners. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill everywhere that you've marked. Use a needdle nose plier and an adjustable wrench to bolt all the acrylic panels to the corner fasteners. Seal the edges with silicone caulk.   3. Attach panel hangers and panel clip to your Ultimaker.   4. On top of removable front window panel, mark a point 15 mm from the top and 15 mm from the left. Mark another point 15 mm from the top and 15 mm from the right. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill through these marks. Screw in 2 bolts into these holes but do not allow the bolt ends to go all the way through and protrude from the panel.   5. Slip the removable front window panel into the bottom panel clip on your Ultimaker. Mark where you would have to drill in order for the panel to hang on the two panel hangers attached to your Ultimaker. Use a 5/16 inch drill bit to drill through these marks. At least 6 mm below these holes, use a compass to draw a 22 mm diameter circle. Using your smallest drill bit, drill many holes all along the circumference of this circle. Use a hobby knife or saw to cut out this circle. Cut an 8 mm wide channel from the top of this circle to the 5/16 inch hole you drilled right above this circle.    HINTS; If the bolts are too tight, oil them with vegetable oil before screwing them in. If the panel hangers and panel clips don't fit, soften them with a heat gun and make them fit. These pieces are a tight fit on purpose. If the pieces are looser, then they will shake apart while the Ultimaker is printing.  If the removable front panel window doesn't fit on the panel hangers, do not use a bigger drill bit. Doing so will cause the panel to rattle while the Ultimaker is printing. Just insert your 5/16 inch drill bit and wiggle it around while drilling for a minute or two. This will loosen it enough to fit, but not too loose so that it rattles.   Print these pieces in ABS. To prevent cracking, warping and curling while printing these pieces before you've built your enclosure, create a temporary enclosure with plastic wrap and electrical tape.   All pieces are printed without supports exept for UltimakerCase3.stl . Print UltimakerCase3.stl with supports. Remove support structures with a needle nose plier before use. Update 6/27/14The hood on top of the Ultimaker was a bit wobbly, so I added reinforcements to the seams between the front and back pieces with the side pieces of the hood. The updated build plate is UM2FullPlateA2.stl . Be sure to glue these reinforcements to the acrylic plates.


This is a strong, lightweight and fast to print hinge that takes a long M3 nut and bolt. &#xA0;I&#x2019;ve integrated a hex hole for the hex nut that the bolt threads into. You can use ultimaker print-head long bolts if they are not in use. If you want the hinge stiffer with even less play, edit the design and reduce the hole diameter by 0.1mm. &#xA0;&#xFEFF;See more things I&apos;m involved in at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/tinlynx" rel="external">https://www.facebook.com/tinlynx</a> Notes:- print 0.1mm layers, 100% infill, 1mm walls. - no sanding of contact parts necessary.

Hinge

This is a strong, lightweight and fast to print hinge that takes a long M3 nut and bolt.  I’ve integrated a hex hole for the hex nut that the bolt threads into. You can use ultimaker print-head long bolts if they are not in use. If you want the hinge stiffer with even less play, edit the design and reduce the hole diameter by 0.1mm.  ﻿See more things I'm involved in at  https://www.facebook.com/tinlynxNotes:- print 0.1mm layers, 100% infill, 1mm walls.- no sanding of contact parts necessary.


The 4mm acrylic plates I used are standard sized and glued, hence no cutting required. Source: <a href="http://www.plattenzuschnitt24.de" rel="external">http://www.plattenzuschnitt24.de</a>. I spent roughly 35&#x20AC; on all parts. The rear of the top lid will be covered with cloth. I now added two versions of the door:Door_print_assembly_AllCATPart_v2 has a 3.5mm gap between&#xA0;the door and the front face of the UM2 to make room for a rubber seal (<a href="http://www.tesa.de/consumer/tesamoll/tesamoll_eprofil_gummidichtung,c.html" rel="external">http://www.tesa.de/consumer/tesamoll/tesamoll_eprofil_gummidichtung,c.html</a>). Especially acoustic insulation is improved by this.Door_print_assembly_AllCATPart_v2_no_gap&#xA0;has no gap in-case you do not want to use a seal of any kind (also worked fine for me). &#xA0; The door handle, hinges and corner pieces are printed. For the holes I added a PDF template size A3. Handle_v2_AllCATPart:&#xA0;I also added a second handle which closes with a filament (see picture above &apos;Handle V2&apos;) if you do not want to use a magnet to keep the door locked. UPDATE: Just added to RAR archives containing individual parts for each version&#xA0;(request). What you needAcrylic sheets: 2 pieces: 0.3x0.3m (door plus to cover) 3 pieces: 0.3x0.2m (side pieces of top cover, rear is covered by a cloth)Printed parts: 2x lower hinge (printed) 1x upper hinge (printed) 3x hinge shaft (3mm filament) 1x door handle (printed) 2x corner front piece for lid (printed) 1x corner rear piece for lid (printed) 1x corner rear piece for lid with screw holes (printed)Rest: 2x magnets for door 4x 0.3m door seal 5x M3x8 countersunk screws 3x M3 nuts

Closed chamber ('green house') UM2

The 4mm acrylic plates I used are standard sized and glued, hence no cutting required. Source: http://www.plattenzuschnitt24.de. I spent roughly 35€ on all parts. The rear of the top lid will be covered with cloth.I now added two versions of the door:Door_print_assembly_AllCATPart_v2 has a 3.5mm gap between the door and the front face of the UM2 to make room for a rubber seal (http://www.tesa.de/consumer/tesamoll/tesamoll_eprofil_gummidichtung,c.html). Especially acoustic insulation is improved by this.Door_print_assembly_AllCATPart_v2_no_gap has no gap in-case you do not want to use a seal of any kind (also worked fine for me).  The door handle, hinges and corner pieces are printed. For the holes I added a PDF template size A3. Handle_v2_AllCATPart: I also added a second handle which closes with a filament (see picture above 'Handle V2') if you do not want to use a magnet to keep the door locked. UPDATE: Just added to RAR archives containing individual parts for each version (request).What you needAcrylic sheets:2 pieces: 0.3x0.3m (door plus to cover)3 pieces: 0.3x0.2m (side pieces of top cover, rear is covered by a cloth)Printed parts:2x lower hinge (printed)1x upper hinge (printed)3x hinge shaft (3mm filament)1x door handle (printed)2x corner front piece for lid (printed)1x corner rear piece for lid (printed)1x corner rear piece for lid with screw holes (printed)Rest:2x magnets for door4x 0.3m door seal5x M3x8 countersunk screws3x M3 nuts


Check out more info at <a href="http://minifacture.wordpress.com" rel="external">http://minifacture.wordpress.com</a> You need to drill several holes on left, right, and front side of the wooden chassis. Print 2 hinges from&#xA0;<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79922" rel="external">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79922</a> and attach door. I have not yet attached a door latch, but planning to have some sort of magnetic latch. Top cover is glued together and opening part was attached. I&#xA0;used flexible PLA from Ultimaker for flaps on the back, for bowden to partly freely to move without much constrain. Heat escapes without the flaps. After installing this, 120W powersupply can heat up to 70&apos;C in about 7-9 mins, but still doesn&apos;t do up to 110&apos;C. I like the power supply small, but if you like faster heat up, use larger power supply.

Ultimaker Heated Chamber

Check out more info at http://minifacture.wordpress.comYou need to drill several holes on left, right, and front side of the wooden chassis. Print 2 hinges from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:79922 and attach door. I have not yet attached a door latch, but planning to have some sort of magnetic latch.Top cover is glued together and opening part was attached. I used flexible PLA from Ultimaker for flaps on the back, for bowden to partly freely to move without much constrain. Heat escapes without the flaps.After installing this, 120W powersupply can heat up to 70'C in about 7-9 mins, but still doesn't do up to 110'C. I like the power supply small, but if you like faster heat up, use larger power supply.


Use at your own risk as a way to reuse metal and save big money, or see it as an example of stupid shit you should never try. I&apos;m not a licensed electrician and learned by getting shocks, burns and cuts. Even people working with electricity will eventually burn their house down by simply forgetting something trivial. A metal enclosure cannot burn like wood, but has an increased risk of shortening a cable.

<ul>
<li>Tape over any sharp or metal surface where a cable might come in contact.</li>
<li>Make sure that the power cable is safely anchored and cannot be damaged by the printer. Otherwise it may be scratched by the Z axis or even melted against the extruder.</li>
<li>Do not leave the chamber unattended with power connected! Even a 12 volt light can cause a fire if shorted directly and it won&apos;t draw enough amperes to blow a fuse.</li>
<li>Do not use any burnable material inside or outside the chamber.</li>
<li>Make sure that each electric wire is well protected against metal surfaces, sharp edges and high temperatures.</li>
<li>No not pull out the printer without supporting its weight. A dishmachine without its waterpump doesn&apos;t weight so much and may tip over you.</li>
<li>Metal edges inside a dish machine can be razor sharp! Do not touch without gloves. Carefully sand them down and tape over if you constantly forget to wear gloves.</li>
<li>Make sure that the metal case is grounded properly. Even if the electric cable is whole, friction can build up a static charge and possibly damage electronics in the printer. I got a quite painful discharge from just the mechanical friction.</li>
<li>Use multiple 12 volt fans to cool the chamber by sucking air out through coal filters in the biggest hole. Use an additional air cleaner in the room or lead the dirty air outside.</li>
<li>Try not to enter the room during the print of toxic plastics. Use a cheap wifi camera to monitor the progress inside the chamber from a distance. The reflective surfaces may disrupt auto exposure, so focus on the build plate. Some cameras may melt or get a bad signal unless you leave the chamber a bit open, which will leak toxic gas.</li>
<li>You won&apos;t have to throttle the fans, just maximize cooling in any way you can and it will still get to 45 degrees celcius.</li>
<li>Do not pull in the power cable directly against metal! The cable holder should be printed in two sets and screwed together on both sides of a hole using eight M5 nuts and bolts. Scale the model a bit if needed to fit the existing holes.</li>
<li>Let the filament be fed from the printed spool holder on top of the chamber. Dish machines usually have a small hole at the top center, which was used to mount the spinner and will now be your hole for feeding filament.</li>
<li>Use a digital thermometer to check the ambient temperature. I built mine with power sockets for fans and light so that all use the same power supply.</li>
<li>Don&apos;t do all this if you can afford a well built enclosed 3D printer, which already have all these features with more safety.</li>
<li>You might want an all metal hotend upgrade if using this chamber, otherwise the PTFE heat insulation tube will swell until the filament gets stuck from the higher temperatures.</li>
</ul>

3D printer enclosure from broken dishwasher

Use at your own risk as a way to reuse metal and save big money, or see it as an example of stupid shit you should never try. I'm not a licensed electrician and learned by getting shocks, burns and cuts. Even people working with electricity will eventually burn their house down by simply forgetting something trivial. A metal enclosure cannot burn like wood, but has an increased risk of shortening a cable.


Tape over any sharp or metal surface where a cable might come in contact.
Make sure that the power cable is safely anchored and cannot be damaged by the printer. Otherwise it may be scratched by the Z axis or even melted against the extruder.
Do not leave the chamber unattended with power connected! Even a 12 volt light can cause a fire if shorted directly and it won't draw enough amperes to blow a fuse.
Do not use any burnable material inside or outside the chamber.
Make sure that each electric wire is well protected against metal surfaces, sharp edges and high temperatures.
No not pull out the printer without supporting its weight. A dishmachine without its waterpump doesn't weight so much and may tip over you.
Metal edges inside a dish machine can be razor sharp! Do not touch without gloves. Carefully sand them down and tape over if you constantly forget to wear gloves.
Make sure that the metal case is grounded properly. Even if the electric cable is whole, friction can build up a static charge and possibly damage electronics in the printer. I got a quite painful discharge from just the mechanical friction.
Use multiple 12 volt fans to cool the chamber by sucking air out through coal filters in the biggest hole. Use an additional air cleaner in the room or lead the dirty air outside.
Try not to enter the room during the print of toxic plastics. Use a cheap wifi camera to monitor the progress inside the chamber from a distance. The reflective surfaces may disrupt auto exposure, so focus on the build plate. Some cameras may melt or get a bad signal unless you leave the chamber a bit open, which will leak toxic gas.
You won't have to throttle the fans, just maximize cooling in any way you can and it will still get to 45 degrees celcius.
Do not pull in the power cable directly against metal! The cable holder should be printed in two sets and screwed together on both sides of a hole using eight M5 nuts and bolts. Scale the model a bit if needed to fit the existing holes.
Let the filament be fed from the printed spool holder on top of the chamber. Dish machines usually have a small hole at the top center, which was used to mount the spinner and will now be your hole for feeding filament.
Use a digital thermometer to check the ambient temperature. I built mine with power sockets for fans and light so that all use the same power supply.
Don't do all this if you can afford a well built enclosed 3D printer, which already have all these features with more safety.
You might want an all metal hotend upgrade if using this chamber, otherwise the PTFE heat insulation tube will swell until the filament gets stuck from the higher temperatures.



This project started 11 months ago, about 1 month after MRRF 2018. The core of this project is using a sub $50 food dehydrator as a chamber heater. There are a ton of posts out there relating to using a dehydrator to dry filament but nothing, I can find, related to using a dehydrator as a chamber heater. In my tests with this method of chamber heating, it doubles as a filament dryer if the filament is within the same enclosure. Since using this as a chamber heater I have had no issues with delamination on ABS parts. It maintains about a 90-100F temperature which seems to be the ideal chamber temperature to keep the ABS from rapid cooling/shrinking and causing the delamination. I have printed as high as 200mm with a 2mm wall thickness with no delamination troubles, warping off of the bed, etc (all the common ABS issues). In terms of PETG parts, it is not required but it has seemed to help with bed adhesion on the German PEI embedded Aluminum. PETG spec when printing on this surface... Bed 90c with Glue stick over the PEI to give a break layer. The PETG does have a tenancy to stick too well to the PEI Aluminum bed, I have actually lost some of the PEI on the aluminum to this high adhesion issue. In terms of the effect of the heat on the electronics, I have had no overheating issue having the entire printer enclosed within the heat and I tend to just leave the dehydrator running all the time.

I have provided Fusion 360 models and a dimensional drawing for how to make the enclosure. The opening and mounts fit a Elite Gourmet EFD-1010 135 Watt dehydrator.

Have fun with this one. All of my ABS frustrations have gone away with this upgrade and mod. This setup will be debuted at MRRF 2019 on March 29-30.

3D Printer Dehydrator Chamber Heating

This project started 11 months ago, about 1 month after MRRF 2018.  The core of this project is using a sub $50 food dehydrator as a chamber heater.  There are a ton of posts out there relating to using a dehydrator to dry filament but nothing, I can find, related to using a dehydrator as a chamber heater.  In my tests with this method of chamber heating, it doubles as a filament dryer if the filament is within the same enclosure.  Since using this as a chamber heater I have had no issues with delamination on ABS parts.  It maintains about a 90-100F temperature which seems to be the ideal chamber temperature to keep the ABS from rapid cooling/shrinking and causing the delamination.  I have printed as high as 200mm with a 2mm wall thickness with no delamination troubles, warping off of the bed, etc (all the common ABS issues).  In terms of PETG parts, it is not required but it has seemed to help with bed adhesion on the German PEI embedded Aluminum.  PETG spec when printing on this surface... Bed 90c with Glue stick over the PEI to give a break layer.  The PETG does have a tenancy to stick too well to the PEI Aluminum bed, I have actually lost some of the PEI on the aluminum to this high adhesion issue.  In terms of the effect of the heat on the electronics, I have had no overheating issue having the entire printer enclosed within the heat and I tend to just leave the dehydrator running all the time.

I have provided Fusion 360 models and a dimensional drawing for how to make the enclosure.  The opening and mounts fit a Elite Gourmet EFD-1010 135 Watt dehydrator.

Have fun with this one.  All of my ABS frustrations have gone away with this upgrade and mod.  This setup will be debuted at MRRF 2019 on March 29-30.


I know, 3mm Acryl is fragile. my aim was low weight.If you need stronger material, you have to resize all tabs on the plates.Added Upgrade sheets to relocate the Ulticontroller.- That way the door wont collide with the controller. :) Use painters tape to make sealing lips on both sides of the Bowdenchannel in the Backplate.

Ultimaker Original Cover in 3mm Acryl

I know, 3mm Acryl is fragile. my aim was low weight.If you need stronger material, you have to resize all tabs on the plates.Added Upgrade sheets to relocate the Ulticontroller.- That way the door wont collide with the controller. :)Use painters tape to make sealing lips on both sides of the Bowdenchannel in the Backplate.


A heated
chamber reduces tension caused by temperature differences within the part
during printing. This greatly reduces warping and cracks in large parts. For
printing in PLA, a heated chamber is not needed. For ABS it is very helpful. Combined
with the ABS-acetone-slurry preparation of the heated bed this pretty much
eliminates failed prints caused by warping and sticking to bed issues. 



Only the
hinges of the door and the cooling fan shroud need to be screwed on the
Ultimaker. The other parts are mountable without any tools. Also they are easy
to remove. The increased temperature makes it necessary to add some additional
changes.

Parts of
this Ultimaker Original+ Heated Chamber Mod:

- Acrylic
top cover 
made of 2mm Acrylic sheet: 
2 Pcs Front and Back: 316mm x 300mm

2 Pcs Sides: 330mm x 300mm 
1 Pcs Top: 320mm x 330mm 
I used CA glue but you might use some special glue that works better.

The &#x201C;guide&#x201D; and &#x201C;lid&#x201D; parts are pushed into the slot of the back acrylic
sheet. Do not glue the lid on the top cover. It is removable, so you can easily
mount the cover on the Ultimaker, then seal the gap with the lid.

As a gasket I took a brush and cut it in two halves (see picture). This
reduces the amount of hot air escaping the chamber. 

&#xA0;- Snap-in
side covers 
Print the &#x201C;Frame&#x201D; parts in ABS. PLA will not last at 50&#xB0;C. Print the ABS parts
1% larger to compensate shrinking. If you forgot to do so (like me), use 4x the
&#x201C;latch_long&#x201D; parts on the bottom and 4x the &#x201C;latch&#x201D;. Else just 8 times the &#x201C;latch&#x201D;.
Puzzle the Frame parts into two complete frames. Note, the left frame has a
cutout for the stepper motor. 
print the pdf with the shape of the acrylic glass on a A3 sized printer scaled 1:1.
Glue the print on the acrylic sheet with glue stick, then cut and drill. For
mounting the acrylic on the frame, I used self-cutting screws (wood screws)
with a diameter of 3mm and a length of 10mm (actually they were longer and I cut
the tip of) 
- Removable
acrylic front door with hinges. 
The door is removable and locks with magnets. I used some strong magnets which
are a little overkill but that&#x2019;s what I had around. Glue the magnets on the Ultimaker
so the screws of the door handle are attracted to them. Use two 4mm diameter rods
that you glue into &#x201C;hinge2&#x201D;. I like how the handle turned out. 
- UltiControl
Bracket 
I have placed the Ultimaker on a shelf facing with its front to the right. This
way I have better access to the feeder and the filament. With the front door in
place, I cannot mount the Ulticontroller on its usual place. So I made this
bracket with which you can mount it on the side of the Ultimaker. Print the bracket
twice and once the distance holder. Use countersunk wooden screws to mount the
three - pieces together. -Edit: made a shorter version of the bracket so the door can be opened when the Ulticontrol is mounted on the front side. 
 - Mounting
the X and Y Motors outside of the chamber 
The increased temperature makes it necessary to move the X and Y motor to the
outside of the chamber. This can be done very easily. Make sure to reverse the
turning direction of the X and Y motor, else you will get a crash when auto
home. You just need to switch two wires in the connector of the motors: 
<a href="https://ultimaker.com/en/modifications-and-hacks/view/2499-heated-build-chamber-flip-stepper-motor-direction?page=1#reply-11883" rel="external">https://ultimaker.com/en/modifications-and-hacks/view/2499-heated-build-chamber-flip-stepper-motor-direction?page=1#reply-11883</a> 
I had to add a 3mm distance holder between the Y-Motor and the side wall for
getting the correct alignment with the belt. (no drawing included). Also I had
to increase the size of the hole for the Y motor so I could tighten the belt
enough. - Cooling fan for mainboard (recommended) Though the electronics is not inside of the chamber, it is mounted at the
bottom of the Ultimaker, where it has little cooling airflow. In the original setup,
the board gets already quite hot and heats the bottom plate. When we raise the temperature
of the bottom plate with our heated chamber, the cooling gets even worse. Time
to add some airflow! I used a 40mm, 24VDC Fan and attached it directly to the
24V Pin on the board. If you have M4 thread-cutter, cut the thread after printing and use M4 screws to mount the fan on the shroud. The fan is quite loud, put some rubber between the fan shroud
and the bottom plate to improve this. The bottom plate is acting like a
resonance body. (Same issue with the Stepper Motors btw)

UMO+ Heated Chamber



A heated
chamber reduces tension caused by temperature differences within the part
during printing. This greatly reduces warping and cracks in large parts. For
printing in PLA, a heated chamber is not needed. For ABS it is very helpful. Combined
with the ABS-acetone-slurry preparation of the heated bed this pretty much
eliminates failed prints caused by warping and sticking to bed issues. 



Only the
hinges of the door and the cooling fan shroud need to be screwed on the
Ultimaker. The other parts are mountable without any tools. Also they are easy
to remove. The increased temperature makes it necessary to add some additional
changes.

Parts of
this Ultimaker Original+ Heated Chamber Mod:

- Acrylic
top cover
made of 2mm Acrylic sheet:
2 Pcs Front and Back: 316mm x 300mm

2 Pcs Sides: 330mm x 300mm
1 Pcs Top: 320mm x 330mm
I used CA glue but you might use some special glue that works better.

The “guide” and “lid” parts are pushed into the slot of the back acrylic
sheet. Do not glue the lid on the top cover. It is removable, so you can easily
mount the cover on the Ultimaker, then seal the gap with the lid.

As a gasket I took a brush and cut it in two halves (see picture). This
reduces the amount of hot air escaping the chamber. 

 - Snap-in
side covers
Print the “Frame” parts in ABS. PLA will not last at 50°C. Print the ABS parts
1% larger to compensate shrinking. If you forgot to do so (like me), use 4x the
“latch_long” parts on the bottom and 4x the “latch”. Else just 8 times the “latch”.
Puzzle the Frame parts into two complete frames. Note, the left frame has a
cutout for the stepper motor. 
print the pdf with the shape of the acrylic glass on a A3 sized printer scaled 1:1.
Glue the print on the acrylic sheet with glue stick, then cut and drill. For
mounting the acrylic on the frame, I used self-cutting screws (wood screws)
with a diameter of 3mm and a length of 10mm (actually they were longer and I cut
the tip of)
- Removable
acrylic front door with hinges. 
The door is removable and locks with magnets. I used some strong magnets which
are a little overkill but that’s what I had around. Glue the magnets on the Ultimaker
so the screws of the door handle are attracted to them. Use two 4mm diameter rods
that you glue into “hinge2”. I like how the handle turned out.
- UltiControl
Bracket
I have placed the Ultimaker on a shelf facing with its front to the right. This
way I have better access to the feeder and the filament. With the front door in
place, I cannot mount the Ulticontroller on its usual place. So I made this
bracket with which you can mount it on the side of the Ultimaker. Print the bracket
twice and once the distance holder. Use countersunk wooden screws to mount the
three - pieces together. -Edit: made a shorter version of the bracket so the door can be opened when the Ulticontrol is mounted on the front side.
- Mounting
the X and Y Motors outside of the chamber
The increased temperature makes it necessary to move the X and Y motor to the
outside of the chamber. This can be done very easily. Make sure to reverse the
turning direction of the X and Y motor, else you will get a crash when auto
home. You just need to switch two wires in the connector of the motors:
https://ultimaker.com/en/modifications-and-hacks/view/2499-heated-build-chamber-flip-stepper-motor-direction?page=1#reply-11883
I had to add a 3mm distance holder between the Y-Motor and the side wall for
getting the correct alignment with the belt. (no drawing included). Also I had
to increase the size of the hole for the Y motor so I could tighten the belt
enough. - Cooling fan for mainboard (recommended) Though the electronics is not inside of the chamber, it is mounted at the
bottom of the Ultimaker, where it has little cooling airflow. In the original setup,
the board gets already quite hot and heats the bottom plate. When we raise the temperature
of the bottom plate with our heated chamber, the cooling gets even worse. Time
to add some airflow! I used a 40mm, 24VDC Fan and attached it directly to the
24V Pin on the board. If you have M4 thread-cutter, cut the thread after printing and use M4 screws to mount the fan on the shroud. The fan is quite loud, put some rubber between the fan shroud
and the bottom plate to improve this. The bottom plate is acting like a
resonance body. (Same issue with the Stepper Motors btw) 


Thingscanner

Some articles you might like

Sintratec S1 SLS 3D Printer: Review the Specs | All3DP

Robotic Blimp to Explore Hidden Chambers of Great Pyramid | All3DP

Linde Just Solved One of Metal 3D Printing Problems | All3DP

Zortrax Inventure: Smart, Simple, and Super Convenient | All3DP

Peopoly Moai 200: Review the Specs | All3DP

Show Only

Looking for tag: chamber