Whether you want to know which 3D printer features the best belt or you're looking for an alternative 3D printer belt, here's what you need to know.

3D Printer Belt: What to Consider & Which to Buy | All3DP

Belt 3D printers are on the rise. Find out what they are, how they work, and why you might want to give a belt 3D printer a try!

Belt 3D Printer: All You Need to Know | All3DP

Curious about the applications of 3D printing in fashion accessories? Fasten your 3D printed belts, we're going into the future of designer clothing.

Generative, 3D Printed Belt Buckles by Scunzani | All3DP

Want to add a 3D printed fashion accessory to your closet? This fully 3D printed belt, designed by Thingiverse user 3DWatsch, is simple, sleek, and most importantly, it works!

[Project] Get Fashionable with a 3D Printed Functional Belt | All3DP

FDM printers are much more diverse than just Cartesian 3D printers. Learn about delta, SCARA, belt, CoreXY, H-bot, polar, and more!

FDM 3D Printers Explained: Cartesian, Delta, CoreXY, & More | All3DP

The iFactory One is a new 3D belt printer that has just got going on Kickstarter. Read on to discover the latest.

iFactory One: Specs, Price, Release & Reviews | All3DP

Migo is a portable desktop 3D printer with wifi connectivity. And it's a just so cute! With a successful crowd-funding campaign under it's belt, are you in the market for a Migo? Review the facts here.

Portable Migo 3D Printer: Review the Facts Here | All3DP

Creality's infinite-Z belt 3D printer has landed. Well, sort of. The Kickstarter campaign is live. Join us as we recap all we currently know about the 3DPrintMill (formerly known as the CR-30) and its near-infinite potential.

Creality 3DPrintMill (CR-30): Specs, Price, Release & Reviews | All3DP

At the recently held Maker Faire 2018 event, the veteran 3D printer manufacturer Printrbot unveiled a range of new products, including the new Printrbot Play v2, a unique conveyor belt-style 3D printer kit for long prints and rapid single-object reproduction, as well as the Printrbot CNC v2 KIT. 

Printrbot Unveils New 3D Printers & CNC Milling Kit at Maker Faire 2018 | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>slide on dual z belt drive bottom bracket, every printer has different settings and bed level  sanding may required to fit the bearing </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Pantech+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Pantech PETG                    </a>

                    doesn&apos;t matter
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>use 608 bearing, remove extrusion back cover and slide the bracket, put the bearing on the lead screw may need some clip to hold on the bearing from falling, the gently slide the bracket up to the vertical extrusion the slide down the bearing, there&apos;s a hole in the back for easy removing </p></div>
</body></html>

ender3 v2 dual z belt drive lead screw bottom support

slide on dual z belt drive bottom bracket, every printer has different settings and bed level  sanding may required to fit the bearing 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is my remake of the belt tension system to fit over over cheap linear rails from Amazon. You can use 2 M6 Bolt/Nuts to tighten it up over the linear rail. Print upside down for the best results. The belt shouldn&apos;t rub up against the z pipes.</p>
<p>Sorry about the pictures being sideways. Every time I post on Thingiverse it flips it for some reason. </p>
<p>Amazon Linear Rails Used: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZF7V41L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;tag=tv-auto-20">https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZF7V41L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=3D+Solutech+PLA+or+PLA%2B+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        3D Solutech PLA or PLA+                     </a>

                    Grey
</body></html>

Lowrider CNC Linear Rail Belt Tensioners

This is my remake of the belt tension system to fit over over cheap linear rails from Amazon. You can use 2 M6 Bolt/Nuts to tighten it up over the linear rail. Print upside down for the best results. The belt shouldn't rub up against the z pipes.


Sorry about the pictures being sideways. Every time I post on Thingiverse it flips it for some reason. 

Amazon Linear Rails Used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZF7V41L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I bought belt tensioners from aliexpress, but I have linear rail upgrade on Y axis, so Y axis belt tensioner can be only attached where I have linear rail. So I made this &quot;upgrade&quot; for linear rail users</p>
<p>you need:<br>
4x M3<em>6 knurl insert nuts<br>
M5</em>35 bolt for tension</p>
<p>and of course parts from 2040 Y axis belt tensioner<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000253369657.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1beb4c4diNLu8h">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000253369657.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1beb4c4diNLu8h</a></p>
<p>I also added cura file because you need to do mirror model from one that I created to do two pieces you need</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>60%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Raise3D+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Raise3D PETG                    </a>

                    Black
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/e9/ba/25/d5/c3/IMG_2947.JPG"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/d2/8e/63/a2/c5/IMG_2950.JPG"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f3/ee/66/78/bf/IMG_2949.JPG"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f5/80/21/4b/4f/IMG_2948.JPG"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/15/37/c0/8d/ab/IMG_2945.JPG"></p>
</body></html>

2040 Y axis belt tensioner rebuild for linear rails update

I bought belt tensioners from aliexpress, but I have linear rail upgrade on Y axis, so Y axis belt tensioner can be only attached where I have linear rail. So I made this "upgrade" for linear rail users

you need:
4x M3*6 knurl insert nuts
M5*35 bolt for tension

and of course parts from 2040 Y axis belt tensioner
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000253369657.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1beb4c4diNLu8h

I also added cura file because you need to do mirror model from one that I created to do two pieces you need

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>A redesign of the original clip from the backpack&apos;s waist belt for the chest belt.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=generic+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        generic PLA                    </a>

                    White
</body></html>

Chest belt tail clip for Lafuma Active 20 backpack

A redesign of the original clip from the backpack's waist belt for the chest belt.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Belt clip for a caliper. </p>
<p>Let me know in the comments, if you need a clip with a larger caliper hole, and I will make one to download :)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ultimaker</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2DPxPgG?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">Ultimaker 2 Extended</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=-+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        - PLA                    </a>

                    -
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/48/33/c0/e8/3d/dimensions.jpg"></p>
</body></html>

Belt clip for a caliper

Belt clip for a caliper. 

Let me know in the comments, if you need a clip with a larger caliper hole, and I will make one to download :)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Remixed from <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3810865">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3810865</a></p>
<p>Just a remixed design of this faceplate with enough room for the bolt of the Y tensioner.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anycubic</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>All-metal Mega</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Geeetech+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Geeetech PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Anycubic Mega S Faceplate with screen cover (Y Tensioner)

Remixed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3810865

Just a remixed design of this faceplate with enough room for the bolt of the Y tensioner.


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I am proud to present my all-in-one solution for rebuilding the X- axis for the Ender 3 (Pro) to a MGN12H Linear rail.<br>
I wanted to get rid of the 2020 extrusion, so i completely engineered new brackets for mounting the rail (300mm) and mounting the original black hot-end backplate.</p>
<p>Now you will only lose 4mm in the Y direction</p>
<p>I was inspired by the &apos;Ender 3 Linear rail bracket X&apos; design by Denebreona <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3698212">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3698212</a></p>
<p>But i also loved the belt-tensioner made by Misterguru<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3319649">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3319649</a>.<br>
somehow i cant include the remix source files</p>
<p>Therefore i complety engineered these design into my own solution.</p>
<p>I designed three versions for the X cariage bracket:</p>
<ul><li>Direct drive with front mounted cable chain (Johnniewhisky&apos;s)</li>
<li>Direct drive without cable chain mount</li>
<li>Bowden drive</li>
</ul><p>I left a little room on the right side of this X carriage bracket so it would fit my current Hero Me V3 hot end mount.</p>
<p>When you use the front mounted cable chain (like i did on the photo&apos;s), i recommend to also print the X_motor cover  with cable chain mounts i designed.<br>
Also two versions:</p>
<ul><li>Without camera mount</li>
<li>With camera mount base (for &apos;Articulating camera mount <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3114849">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849</a>).<br>
I created a few extra parts for this awesome Pi Camera mount and are inclued in the Thing Files section.<br>
Also print the cableChain_40mountSide_V2 from Johniewhiskey. but inverted in Cura, so you can mount the Z cable chain to the bottom extrusion.</li>
</ul><p>You will need my version of the X tensioner Main body instead of the original one.<br>
The original steel tensioner will not fit on this design.</p>
<p>For bolting it all done you will need the following new bolts:</p>
<p>New bolts                           amount description<br>
m3x8  45 angled head            4x        mount carriage bracket to MGN12H carriage<br>
m5x12 + locking nut         3x        mount original hot-end plate to carriage bracket<br>
m4x12 + nut                         2x        Left bracket to original black wheel plate<br>
m4x12 + nut                         2x        Right bracket to original black wheel plate<br>
m3x12 + nut                         6x        rail to brackets left and right<br>
M4x30 + locking nut         1x       Tensioner main body and right bracket to wheel plate</p>
<p>Because now the belt is connected to the carriage on the other side of the rail, you will need to invert the X-axis in your Marlin firmware.</p>
<p>I must say i loved engineering this design in Fusion 360, and would like to know your thoughts about my design.<br>
And feel free to buy me a beer if you also love it :)</p>
<p>Happy printing and post your makes</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>high for strength</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Jupiter+PETG+and+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Jupiter PETG and PLA                    </a>

                    Red
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Brackets are printed in PETG, rest in PLA</p></div>
</body></html>

AIO MGN12H X linear rail Direct Drive or Bowden Ender3 (No 2020 extr)

I am proud to present my all-in-one solution for rebuilding the X- axis for the Ender 3 (Pro) to a MGN12H Linear rail.
I wanted to get rid of the 2020 extrusion, so i completely engineered new brackets for mounting the rail (300mm) and mounting the original black hot-end backplate.

Now you will only lose 4mm in the Y direction

I was inspired by the 'Ender 3 Linear rail bracket X' design by Denebreona https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3698212

But i also loved the belt-tensioner made by Misterguru
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3319649.
somehow i cant include the remix source files

Therefore i complety engineered these design into my own solution.

I designed three versions for the X cariage bracket:
* Direct drive with front mounted cable chain (Johnniewhisky's)
* Direct drive without cable chain mount
* Bowden drive

I left a little room on the right side of this X carriage bracket so it would fit my current Hero Me V3 hot end mount.

When you use the front mounted cable chain (like i did on the photo's), i recommend to also print the X_motor cover  with cable chain mounts i designed.
Also two versions:
* Without camera mount
* With camera mount base (for 'Articulating camera mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3114849). 
I created a few extra parts for this awesome Pi Camera mount and are inclued in the Thing Files section.
Also print the cableChain_40mountSide_V2 from Johniewhiskey. but inverted in Cura, so you can mount the Z cable chain to the bottom extrusion.

You will need my version of the X tensioner Main body instead of the original one.
The original steel tensioner will not fit on this design.

For bolting it all done you will need the following new bolts:

New bolts	                        amount description
m3x8  45 angled head	        4x	      mount carriage bracket to MGN12H carriage
m5x12 + locking nut	        3x	      mount original hot-end plate to carriage bracket
m4x12 + nut	                        2x	      Left bracket to original black wheel plate
m4x12 + nut	                        2x	      Right bracket to original black wheel plate
m3x12 + nut	                        6x	      rail to brackets left and right
M4x30 + locking nut	        1x	     Tensioner main body and right bracket to wheel plate

Because now the belt is connected to the carriage on the other side of the rail, you will need to invert the X-axis in your Marlin firmware.


I must say i loved engineering this design in Fusion 360, and would like to know your thoughts about my design.
And feel free to buy me a beer if you also love it :)

Happy printing and post your makes


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>More in the - How I designed - section.</p>
<p>What started out as a simple design to test belt tension and jitter lines on a model.  Turned into more.</p>
<p>It helps me test:</p>
<p>Belt Tension<br>
Bed level from left to right<br>
Print speeds<br>
Stringing - retraction speed and distance as well as priming speed and distance<br>
Bed adhesion (this one was huge side effect)<br>
Cooling with 0% infill.</p>
<p>This has helped me tune my anet a8 to the point I create worm gears without issue on my printer.</p>
<p>At 0% infill and 60mm/s speed, sliced in Cura, on an Anet A8, 0.3 layer height, takes about 50mins to print.</p>
<p>I am sure you can modify your g-code to turn this into a heat tower too.</p>
<p>If your slicer freaks out on size...its 25mm in height.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.1-0.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=WYZ+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        WYZ PETG                    </a>

                    White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Support is 5mm Brim</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Belt Tension</strong></p>
                <div><p>I was struggling with what was too tight or too loose of belt tension for my x and y belts after switching to adjustable tensioners.</p>
<p>I created this rotating block to study the effects belt tension would produce.  It creates angles that range from 0 to 90, by 15 degree transitions.  To see which axis was creating the most issues.  The far left block tests the long y axis.  The far right block, the long x axis.  And the inbetweens test a combination of shorter or longer x/y movements.</p>
<p>Upon printing this I noticed some side benefits.</p>
<p>It helped level my bed, especially when using a brim of 5mm.  This brim connects all the blocks so the blocks come off as one piece.  Because this brim has sharp turns and long lines...its also a great bed adhesion test too.</p>
<p>The next side benefit was stringing between blocks, and the start/end flow of each block.  Letting me know if I was under or over extruding during start and end movement of the layer.</p>
<p>The next side effect was using no infill and two walls.  This let me test the strength of material via the hand squeeze.  As well as the bridging of the top layer and how much it would sag.  5 top layers is what I use.  If  the cooling etc are good...the top layer comes out flat.  If not - it sags.</p></div>
</body></html>

XY Tension Test and MORE

More in the - How I designed - section.

What started out as a simple design to test belt tension and jitter lines on a model.  Turned into more.

It helps me test:

Belt Tension
Bed level from left to right
Print speeds
Stringing - retraction speed and distance as well as priming speed and distance
Bed adhesion (this one was huge side effect)
Cooling with 0% infill.

This has helped me tune my anet a8 to the point I create worm gears without issue on my printer.

At 0% infill and 60mm/s speed, sliced in Cura, on an Anet A8, 0.3 layer height, takes about 50mins to print.

I am sure you can modify your g-code to turn this into a heat tower too.

If your slicer freaks out on size...its 25mm in height.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I made an adapter to connect my Bosch GAS25 l extractor to my 100mm hitachi SB8V2 belt sander. Im using the belt sander staionary like a table mounted sander on its side. Its a tight fit on both the hoover and Hiatchi belt sander.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR-10 Mini</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I made an adapter to connect my Bosch GAS25 l extractor to my 100mm hitachi SB8V2 belt sander. Im using the belt sander staionary like a table mounted sander on its side. Its a tight fit on both the hoover and Hiatchi belt sander.</p></div>
</body></html>

Hitachi SB8V2 belt sander adapter to connect Bosch gas 25 extractor

I made an adapter to connect my Bosch GAS25 l extractor to my 100mm hitachi SB8V2 belt sander. Im using the belt sander staionary like a table mounted sander on its side. Its a tight fit on both the hoover and Hiatchi belt sander.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I bought a Baofeng UV9R but didn&apos;t like the belt clip design. It&apos;s not comfortable because its rotation. I wan&apos;t a sturdy clip, so that the radio won&apos;t move when I&apos;m walking, moving, etc (doing firefighter things). I have a spare EP450 battery, and I love the clip design on motorola radios, so I designed this adapter to use the belt clip included in the EP450 with the UV9R. </p>
<p>I had to print it standing because of the small details in both sides. This is my 5th iteration, but I haven&apos;t used it on the field yet. I recommend using a washer or something similar so that the bolt head won&apos;t damage the adapter so fast. Try to print this with only walls, it will be more resistant.</p>
<p>Please, if you have any problems or ideas to improve this design, do comment and I will try to implement those changes.</p>
<p>Version 6:<br>
Now the adapter itself is shorter, as an effort to reduce the torque. I used an aluminum plate from a poster so that the screw doesn&apos;t bite into the plastic, you could also use a washer (I didn&apos;t have one so tiny). </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Creality+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Creality PLA                    </a>
</body></html>

Baofeng UV9R adapter to use the Motorola EP450 battery clip

I bought a Baofeng UV9R but didn't like the belt clip design. It's not comfortable because its rotation. I wan't a sturdy clip, so that the radio won't move when I'm walking, moving, etc (doing firefighter things). I have a spare EP450 battery, and I love the clip design on motorola radios, so I designed this adapter to use the belt clip included in the EP450 with the UV9R. 

I had to print it standing because of the small details in both sides. This is my 5th iteration, but I haven't used it on the field yet. I recommend using a washer or something similar so that the bolt head won't damage the adapter so fast. Try to print this with only walls, it will be more resistant.

Please, if you have any problems or ideas to improve this design, do comment and I will try to implement those changes.

Version 6:
Now the adapter itself is shorter, as an effort to reduce the torque. I used an aluminum plate from a poster so that the screw doesn't bite into the plastic, you could also use a washer (I didn't have one so tiny). 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Original did not fit for some reason. Way too small. I rebuilt and remodelled it from the ground up, and I rounded some edges and made a small shield so the needlenose doesn&apos;t damage your pants. </p>
<p>02 Nov 20: Added a new version that is closed at the bottom. I found when I would sit down in my car it would pop out of the holster. So there are now three versions: Closed (preferred by me), Shield (original), and Minimal (which is just enough to hold it on a belt, but could be pushed out from the bottom). </p>
<p>So far this has withstood a busy day round the house, including playing tag all afternoon with my kids outside. Lots of running, crawling, and rolling in the woods! Never fell out once. </p>
<p>Use a brim if you have problems with adhesion. Check out my <a rel="nofollow" href="https://old.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ewquzr/guide_how_to_level_your_bed/">bed levelling</a> guide to help to NOT have problems with adhesion! </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Something chunky, 0.28 or more. </p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25% or higher</p></div>
<p></p>
</body></html>

Gerber Multi-Plier 600 Holster

Original did not fit for some reason. Way too small. I rebuilt and remodelled it from the ground up, and I rounded some edges and made a small shield so the needlenose doesn't damage your pants. 

02 Nov 20: Added a new version that is closed at the bottom. I found when I would sit down in my car it would pop out of the holster. So there are now three versions: Closed (preferred by me), Shield (original), and Minimal (which is just enough to hold it on a belt, but could be pushed out from the bottom). 

So far this has withstood a busy day round the house, including playing tag all afternoon with my kids outside. Lots of running, crawling, and rolling in the woods! Never fell out once. 

Use a brim if you have problems with adhesion. Check out my [bed levelling](https://old.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/ewquzr/guide_how_to_level_your_bed/) guide to help to NOT have problems with adhesion! 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Couldn&apos;t find a tensioner for the Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus Mk2 (only i3 Plus, which has a different carriage design) so I made one. It has the correct standoff from the carriage for good belt alignment, and is low enough that it doesn&apos;t rub against the top belt which was a common fault I found with the other models for the i3 Plus.</p>
<p>Print settings below. </p>
<p>Super simple to install, insert M3 Nyloc and RH end of belt in to the female piece and use the factory M4x20 rounded socket head screws to install on the carriage, then with the LH belt end installed in the male end use a M3x25 or M3x30 socket head cap screw to tighten. Trim or cable tie trailing belt as required.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Wanhao</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2DqRItw?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=eSun+PLA+or+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        eSun PLA or PETG                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Some supports required, block supports in slots/bolt holes.</p></div>
</body></html>

Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus Mk2 X-Axis Belt Tensioner

Couldn't find a tensioner for the Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus Mk2 (only i3 Plus, which has a different carriage design) so I made one. It has the correct standoff from the carriage for good belt alignment, and is low enough that it doesn't rub against the top belt which was a common fault I found with the other models for the i3 Plus.

Print settings below. 

Super simple to install, insert M3 Nyloc and RH end of belt in to the female piece and use the factory M4x20 rounded socket head screws to install on the carriage, then with the LH belt end installed in the male end use a M3x25 or M3x30 socket head cap screw to tighten. Trim or cable tie trailing belt as required.

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