All3DP collaborates with BigRep GmbH to create the world's biggest fidget spinner that is fully 3D printed (yes, even the bearing!) 

BigRep Creates World's Biggest Fully 3D Printed Fidget Spinner | All3DP

Bearings are crucial components in all sorts of machines. But did you know you could 3D print them? Dig into the guide on 3D printed bearings to learn more!

3D Printed Bearing: Tips & Tricks to 3D Print Your Own | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>inner diameter: 15mm<br>
outer diameter: 51.65mm (suitable for FDPlast filament Spool)<br>
recommend printed from PLA plastic</p>
<p>video test of ball bearing <a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/dXx4lC-pBu4">https://youtu.be/dXx4lC-pBu4</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Sapphire Plus</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=FDplast+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        FDplast PLA                    </a>

                    White
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom custom-section">Custom Section</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/dXx4lC-pBu4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
</body></html>

plastic ball bearing filament FDPlast Spool Holder

inner diameter: 15mm
outer diameter: 51.65mm (suitable for FDPlast filament Spool)
recommend printed from PLA plastic

video test of ball bearing https://youtu.be/dXx4lC-pBu4

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Designed for hypercube side top down mount of the spool</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">Prusa Clone</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+PLA+%2F+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic PLA / PETG                    </a>

                    
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>should be about 4.5 hours at prusa 0.3 draft settings</p></div>
</body></html>

Top down spool holder incl. 3030 profile 

Designed for hypercube side top down mount of the spool

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Bring Your Own Balls Parametric Bearing.  I used 6mm soft air ammo for the bearings in the stl files but I have include the parametric Fusion 360 file so you can use whatever balls you have.</p>
<p>There are two versions of a 10mm I.D, 30mm O.D, 10mm thick bearing. The more spin version has more play between the balls and the races and spins for about three seconds when spun by hand.  The less play version only spins for about a second but the inner race doesn&apos;t move around as much.</p>
<p>Both are made of three parts, an outer race, and a two part inner race that press fits together.  The inner race parts could be glued together if needed but I haven&apos;t found it necessary.</p>
<p>EDIT: After dropping one and it popping apart I would recommend carefully gluing the inner race together.  Try not to glue your balls together!</p>
<p>To assemble put the bottom inner race on a flat surface with the outer race around it.  Lift up the outer race a bit to provide clearance for the balls.  Once the balls are in position lower the outer race and put the inner race top on top of the bottom and push together.  The included bearings take ten balls each.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Original Prusa i3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic PLA                    </a>

                    Orange
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Printed with default 0.10 DETAIL profile in PrusaSlicer.</p></div>
</body></html>

BYOB Parametric Bearing

Bring Your Own Balls Parametric Bearing.  I used 6mm soft air ammo for the bearings in the stl files but I have include the parametric Fusion 360 file so you can use whatever balls you have.

There are two versions of a 10mm I.D, 30mm O.D, 10mm thick bearing. The more spin version has more play between the balls and the races and spins for about three seconds when spun by hand.  The less play version only spins for about a second but the inner race doesn't move around as much.

Both are made of three parts, an outer race, and a two part inner race that press fits together.  The inner race parts could be glued together if needed but I haven't found it necessary.

EDIT: After dropping one and it popping apart I would recommend carefully gluing the inner race together.  Try not to glue your balls together!

To assemble put the bottom inner race on a flat surface with the outer race around it.  Lift up the outer race a bit to provide clearance for the balls.  Once the balls are in position lower the outer race and put the inner race top on top of the bottom and push together.  The included bearings take ten balls each.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Spool holder bracket that installs onto a 2040 extrusion.  I designed and used this for my Eryone Thinker SE as I don&apos;t like mounting filament on the top brace.  I find it introduces too much wobble on the system with the extra weight up there.</p>
<p>This should work on most printers that use a 2040 or 4040 extrusion pieces for the frame.</p>
<p>5/16 rod was used on mine, but a metric size of similar diameter should be fine. </p>
<p>I also included the stl for a filament spool holder and thumb wheel for a nut. <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4616918">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4616918</a></p>
<p>The bracket in the pictures has my company logo on it.  The uploaded stl is graphic-free.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Eryone Thinker SE</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.1</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>35</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Eryone+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Eryone PLA                    </a>

                    Silk Copper
</body></html>

Spool Holder for 2040 Extrusion

Spool holder bracket that installs onto a 2040 extrusion.  I designed and used this for my Eryone Thinker SE as I don't like mounting filament on the top brace.  I find it introduces too much wobble on the system with the extra weight up there.

This should work on most printers that use a 2040 or 4040 extrusion pieces for the frame.

5/16 rod was used on mine, but a metric size of similar diameter should be fine. 

I also included the stl for a filament spool holder and thumb wheel for a nut. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4616918

The bracket in the pictures has my company logo on it.  The uploaded stl is graphic-free.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>When printing soft or flexible filaments, even the slightest resistance in the spool holder can cause unpredictable tension/stretching in the filament feed, leading to irregular prints. This spool holder for the Prusa MK3 frame uses a single 608 bearing to minimize feed resistance.</p>
<p>Drop the bearing into the hat &amp; push down firmly to seat. Drop an M8 nut into the bottom of the axis &amp; get it close to seated, then insert an M8 screw thru the top of the bearing/hat assembly &amp; screw it into the nut until firm. Give it a test spin. Giggle and spin it again. Hook it onto the frame, hook the guide on next to it, then drop a roll of filament onto it.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Matterhackers+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Matterhackers PLA                    </a>

                    White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Supports are only necessary for the hat, which I would recommend printing flat. Print the other 2 on their flat sides, so the print is drawing the profile of the &quot;hook&quot; on each layer.</p></div>
</body></html>

Prusa MK3 Lazy Susan Spool

When printing soft or flexible filaments, even the slightest resistance in the spool holder can cause unpredictable tension/stretching in the filament feed, leading to irregular prints. This spool holder for the Prusa MK3 frame uses a single 608 bearing to minimize feed resistance.

Drop the bearing into the hat & push down firmly to seat. Drop an M8 nut into the bottom of the axis & get it close to seated, then insert an M8 screw thru the top of the bearing/hat assembly & screw it into the nut until firm. Give it a test spin. Giggle and spin it again. Hook it onto the frame, hook the guide on next to it, then drop a roll of filament onto it.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just a fast desing to help myself to fix the bike. Super easy to print, no supports needed. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Pla+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Pla PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Tomos Flexer / Califone Bearing

Just a fast desing to help myself to fix the bike. Super easy to print, no supports needed. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This lazy susan was made to fit under an Umbra necklace display stand but could be used for many applications. The diameter is 125mm. </p>
<p>More info: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/V6H-mYvA6og">https://youtu.be/V6H-mYvA6og</a></p>
<p>You will need: </p>
<ul><li>6mm BBs or ball bearings (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://geni.us/VHz1jc">https://geni.us/VHz1jc</a>)</li>
<li>M5 x 12mm hex bolt</li>
<li>M5 lock nut</li>
</ul><p>As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Using the affiliate links above does not add any cost to your purchase, and I receive a small fee from Amazon for your purchase. They help me to be able to create more content for you. Thank you for your support!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Prusa+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Prusa PLA                    </a>

                    Silver
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/V6H-mYvA6og" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
</body></html>

Lazy Susan

This lazy susan was made to fit under an Umbra necklace display stand but could be used for many applications. The diameter is 125mm. 

More info: https://youtu.be/V6H-mYvA6og

You will need: 

- 6mm BBs or ball bearings (https://geni.us/VHz1jc)
- M5 x 12mm hex bolt
- M5 lock nut

As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Using the affiliate links above does not add any cost to your purchase, and I receive a small fee from Amazon for your purchase. They help me to be able to create more content for you. Thank you for your support!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Print</h3>
<p>Print four parts overall. Each side consists of two parts facing eachother.<br>
30% Infill and 2 bottom/toplayers are enough to be pretty torsion-resistant.</p>
<h3>BOM:</h3>
<p>8x M3x12 Screws + Nuts<br>
4x Toothless Pulleys with 5mm Bore</p>
<h3>Assembly</h3>
<p>The M3 screws need to go in the holes with the spacers behind. The Bearings on the solid spacers on the top. The additional holes may be used to connect both elements of the holder with a threaded rod to prevent shifting.</p>
<p><em>3mm Bearing version will follow</em></p></div>
</body></html>

Slimline Spoolholder with Pulleys/Bearings

Print
====
Print four parts overall. Each side consists of two parts facing eachother.
30% Infill and 2 bottom/toplayers are enough to be pretty torsion-resistant.

BOM:
====
8x M3x12 Screws + Nuts
4x Toothless Pulleys with 5mm Bore

Assembly
====
The M3 screws need to go in the holes with the spacers behind. The Bearings on the solid spacers on the top. The additional holes may be used to connect both elements of the holder with a threaded rod to prevent shifting.

_3mm Bearing version will follow_


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Simple x or y axiss linear carriage for saw table or camera usage or etc..<br>
For carriage uses   22mm outer diameter LM12UU linear bearing  (2 ea for each carriage).<br>
Rod holder inner diameter 12mm.</p>
<p>For Cura setting:<br>
do not forget to correct hole diameter to set your slicer program setting which is &quot; Hole Horizantal Expansion &quot;   : 0.2 for (0.4 nozzle). !!!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=CCTREE+PETG+or+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        CCTREE PETG or PLA                    </a>

                    
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>You know best your flament charesterics , but I use ,for strong shell , min 1.2 wall thickness with 3 wall line ,%30 fill parameters.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/00/61/2a/a8/69/IMG_20201029_180307.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/b5/a7/fb/6d/fb/IMG_20201029_180249.jpg"></p>
</body></html>

12mm Rod Linear Carriage 

Simple x or y axiss linear carriage for saw table or camera usage or etc..
For carriage uses   22mm outer diameter LM12UU linear bearing  (2 ea for each carriage).
Rod holder inner diameter 12mm.


For Cura setting:
do not forget to correct hole diameter to set your slicer program setting which is " Hole Horizantal Expansion "   : 0.2 for (0.4 nozzle). !!!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I build the Case for the Sensor and Remixed the Filament Guide an arm in. </p>
<p>I use a three wire Sensor connected to Octopi.<br>
To close the Case i used four M1.7*6 Screws, but you can just &quot;click&quot; it on.</p>
<p>If your Sensor doesn&apos;t trigger right, you can &quot;calibrate&quot; it by bending the Metalpiece up or down. </p>
<p>There&apos;s also a LED.stl file, wich you can print in Translucent material so that you can see the Status LED a bit better. It isn&apos;t nessecary but i feel like it looks better. You can just leave the hole ther to see the LED.</p>
<p>You should use Support for this. </p>
<p>There are some edges, that i couldn&apos;t remove &apos;cause I used TinkerCAD to Create the Mix of Case and Guide. I hate TinkerCAD because you cant edit mesurements easily later.(or maybe i cant use it right). I wasn&apos;t able to Mix the Models in OnShape. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.24</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>40%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Amazon+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Amazon PLA                    </a>

                    Grey
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used PLA with Support to print this. </p></div>
</body></html>

Filament Guide and Sensor Case - Ender 3 and other

I build the Case for the Sensor and Remixed the Filament Guide an arm in. 

I use a three wire Sensor connected to Octopi. 
To close the Case i used four M1.7*6 Screws, but you can just "click" it on.

If your Sensor doesn't trigger right, you can "calibrate" it by bending the Metalpiece up or down. 

There's also a LED.stl file, wich you can print in Translucent material so that you can see the Status LED a bit better. It isn't nessecary but i feel like it looks better. You can just leave the hole ther to see the LED.

You should use Support for this. 

There are some edges, that i couldn't remove 'cause I used TinkerCAD to Create the Mix of Case and Guide. I hate TinkerCAD because you cant edit mesurements easily later.(or maybe i cant use it right). I wasn't able to Mix the Models in OnShape. 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I love the original design for how smooth the bearing works and how much load is able to bear, both radial and axial. In the end I needed more bearing sizes, and scaling the original to 200% caused it to have too much slack (even using the tightest version).</p>
<p>Bearing was modelled from scratch using <strong>FreeCAD</strong>, I&apos;m including <strong>project file</strong> to allow you to <strong>generate any bearing size</strong>. The results are surprisingly consistent with clearance equal between rollers themselves and between the rollers and races.</p>
<p>If after changing the bearing size model can not be recalculated, try to:<br>
1) decrease <em>Roller Maximal Diameter Height</em> - it is height of a wide end of a roller, values around or less than 1/5 of <em>Bearing Height</em> are OK<br>
2) increase <em>Roller Minimal Diameter</em> - it is diameter of a roller in its narrowest slice, set a value a few mm lower than <em>Roller Diameter</em></p>
<p>Please leave me some feedback on what can be improved or if it has helped you in any way.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20 mm</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50% (gyroid)</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Fiberlogy+Easy+PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Fiberlogy Easy PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Blue
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Elephant foot may cause rollers to bind, so try to lower build plate temperature, level build plate, adjust build plate height or apply some &apos;elephant foot reduction&apos;.</p>
<p>It is important to have flow rate and extruder steps calibrated properly, alternatively you can just increase clearance.</p>
<p>When clearance is just right, rollers are stuck together lightly. Prying on them with utility knife or tapping the whole bearing lightly should free them up.</p></div>
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3D Printable Bearings

I love the original design for how smooth the bearing works and how much load is able to bear, both radial and axial. In the end I needed more bearing sizes, and scaling the original to 200% caused it to have too much slack (even using the tightest version).

Bearing was modelled from scratch using **FreeCAD**, I'm including **project file** to allow you to **generate any bearing size**. The results are surprisingly consistent with clearance equal between rollers themselves and between the rollers and races.

If after changing the bearing size model can not be recalculated, try to:
1) decrease *Roller Maximal Diameter Height* - it is height of a wide end of a roller, values around or less than 1/5 of *Bearing Height* are OK
2) increase *Roller Minimal Diameter* - it is diameter of a roller in its narrowest slice, set a value a few mm lower than *Roller Diameter*

Please leave me some feedback on what can be improved or if it has helped you in any way.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Remix of the  Ender 3 Filament Guide by D3D_Designs</p>
<p>Even with a more durable carbon fiber filament and .12 layer height 100% infill, I was seeing a lot of issues with durability in the mount where the bearing is screwed into the base. I resolved this issue by making it a 2 part piece so that the bearing slider can be printed separately and be able to screw in along with the bearing. This makes more of the weight and tension go on the screw and it helps make the overall build a bit more durable.</p>
<p>I was also getting issues with the filament retainer breaking due to how thin the side was, so I just made it a bit thicker to give it a bit more durability against firm filaments like carbon fiber and wood</p>
<ul><li>Separated base into bearing slider and mount base</li>
<li>Lengthened the bearing slider to cover full length of two 608 bearings</li>
<li>Increased hole size for screws to 2.8 x 2.8 mm to make threading the m3 screw easier</li>
<li>Increased the size and enhanced structural durability of the filament retainer</li>
</ul><p>There&apos;s no major difference in required materials - just 2 608 bearings and 1 m3 20mm screw</p>
<p>No supports needed</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.12</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=SUNLU+Carbon+Fiber+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        SUNLU Carbon Fiber PLA                    </a>

                    Black (Matte)
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>should be good with any filament</p></div>
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Ender 3 pulley filament guide with enhanced durability base 

Remix of the  Ender 3 Filament Guide by D3D_Designs

Even with a more durable carbon fiber filament and .12 layer height 100% infill, I was seeing a lot of issues with durability in the mount where the bearing is screwed into the base. I resolved this issue by making it a 2 part piece so that the bearing slider can be printed separately and be able to screw in along with the bearing. This makes more of the weight and tension go on the screw and it helps make the overall build a bit more durable.

I was also getting issues with the filament retainer breaking due to how thin the side was, so I just made it a bit thicker to give it a bit more durability against firm filaments like carbon fiber and wood

- Separated base into bearing slider and mount base
- Lengthened the bearing slider to cover full length of two 608 bearings
- Increased hole size for screws to 2.8 x 2.8 mm to make threading the m3 screw easier
- Increased the size and enhanced structural durability of the filament retainer

There's no major difference in required materials - just 2 608 bearings and 1 m3 20mm screw

No supports needed

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