Protect your beloved Arduino from damage with a 3D printed Arduino case! Here are the best 3D Arduino cases to 3D print.

12 Awesome Arduino Cases to 3D Print | All3DP

¿Buscas pasatiempos interesantes para construir con tu Arduino? Desubre 20 proyectos Arduino geniales, tanto para principiantes como expertos.

Los 35 mejores proyectos Arduino de 2021 | All3DP

Looking for challenging Arduino projects? Check out 30 great Arduino projects you can make with a 3D printer.

30 Great Arduino Projects (You Can Make with a 3D Printer) | All3DP

¿Estás buscando desafiantes proyectos con Arduino? Aquí están los mejores proyectos con Arduino que puedes hacer con una impresora 3D.

Los 30 mejores proyectos con Arduino para imprimir en 3D | All3DP

Arduino microcontrollers are more versatile than you might think. Check out these 10 Arduino uses and projects to try at home!

Top 10 Arduino Uses in 2021 | All3DP

Arduino development boards are nifty little devices with huge potential. Read on for 10 useful and engaging Arduino projects for beginners.

10 Easy & Simple Arduino Projects for Beginners in 2021 | All3DP

Suchst du nach einem spannenden Arduino-Projekt für deinen 3D-Drucker? Wir haben die 30 besten Arduino-Projekte für dich zusammengestellt.

Die besten Arduino-Projekte für deinen 3D-Drucker | All3DP

Arduino and Autodesk are starting an exciting collaboration. For $89 you get a revised Arduino starter kit. The software is from Autodesk.

Arduino and Autodesk Offer a Starter Kit for Makers | All3DP

Arduino CNCs are fun to build and provide great results. Take a look at some of the best Arduino CNC projects available today!

Arduino CNC Routers: 5 Amazing DIY Projects | All3DP

Looking for cool Arduino projects to pass the time? Check our list of the best Arduino projects for both beginners and expert makers.

50 Cool Arduino Projects for March 2021 | All3DP

Robot arms are already great, but they're even better when combined with everyone's favorite microcontroller: the Arduino. Keep reading for a list of the best Arduino robot arms available today.

Arduino Robot Arm – 5 Best Robot Arms For Your Arduino | All3DP

Em busca de projetos com Arduino para passar o tempo? Veja a nossa lista com os melhores projetos Arduino para iniciantes e makers experientes.

Os 40 melhores projetos com Arduino de 2021 | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>My simple yet, effective design of DIY Stream Deck enclosure, consisting 12 keys in total, compatible with Cherry MX switches.</p>
<p>Keycaps : <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4637345">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4637345</a></p></div>
</body></html>

DIY Stream Deck - Macro Keys Enclosure

My simple yet, effective design of DIY Stream Deck enclosure, consisting 12 keys in total, compatible with Cherry MX switches.

Keycaps : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4637345

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just wanted to keep an Uno R3 and middle size bread board together... just fiddly enough aint they without the boards moving around.. ?</p>
<p>I will add screw holes in the bottom at some point. </p>
<p>So fits an Uno R3 and clones... no need for screws.. gives a nice snap when you push it onto the stakes.. ( pops off fairly easily )  </p>
<p>you could melt the tops of the stake to make it a little more permanent. </p>
<p>Bread board is the the standard &apos; middle &apos; sized 10 x 30 pins + power rails each side. 84mm x 55mm.. no need to use the stickypad... it stays in place without using it. </p>
<p>I have other sizes that I&apos;ve made.. if you want them uploaded just give me a shout ?</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>CR-X</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Sunlu+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Sunlu PETG                    </a>

                    Orange
</body></html>

Arduino Uno R3 & 400 Point Bread Board Base

Just wanted to keep an Uno R3 and middle size bread board together... just fiddly enough aint they without the boards moving around.. ?

I will add screw holes in the bottom at some point. 

So fits an Uno R3 and clones... no need for screws.. gives a nice snap when you push it onto the stakes.. ( pops off fairly easily )  

you could melt the tops of the stake to make it a little more permanent. 

Bread board is the the standard ' middle ' sized 10 x 30 pins + power rails each side. 84mm x 55mm.. no need to use the stickypad... it stays in place without using it. 

I have other sizes that I've made.. if you want them uploaded just give me a shout ?

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>RemindAirMini is a housing for the sensors BME280 and MQ-135 to measure the air quality. </p>
<p>You will find informations about the electronics, wiring and firmware under the following link from my friend Luis:</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/loublock/Air-Quality-Monitor">https://github.com/loublock/Air-Quality-Monitor</a></p>
<p>See Notes section for well working printing parameters!</p>
<p>Have fun!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=amazon+basics+PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        amazon basics PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Black / Red / Clear
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Printing Parameters for Housing Parts:</p>
<p>Layer Height: 0.2 mm</p>
<p>Wall Thikness: 0.8 mm<br>
Horizontal Expansion: -0.05 mm<br>
Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion: -0.1 mm<br>
Z Seam Position: Back</p>
<p>Infill Density: 20 %<br>
Infill Pattern: Cubic</p>
<p>Print Speed: 50 mm/s</p>
<p>Support Placement: Everywhere<br>
Support Overhang Angle: 65&#xB0;<br>
Support Density: 20 %<br>
Support Interface Density: 50 %</p>
<p>Different Printing Parameters for Glass Part:</p>
<p>Layer Height: 0.16 mm</p>
<p>Wall Thikness: 0.4 mm<br>
Top Layers: 3<br>
Bottom Layers: 2<br>
Initial Bottom Layers: 3</p>
<p>Infill: 0 %</p>
<p>Material:</p>
<p>Use your favourite PLA or other Material, make sure your Printer is well calibrated otherwise the parts will not fit together.<br>
For PLA and the mentioned printing parameters you will need the following amount of material:</p>
<p>red parts:<br>
weight: 39 g<br>
printing time: 5 h 21 min</p>
<p>black parts:<br>
weight: 55 g<br>
printing time: 11 h 4 min</p>
<p>transparent parts:<br>
weight: 7 g<br>
printing time: 1 h 30 min</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/vfHGNQmXTCo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
</body></html>

RemindAirMini - Housing

RemindAirMini is a housing for the sensors BME280 and MQ-135 to measure the air quality. 

You will find informations about the electronics, wiring and firmware under the following link from my friend Luis:

https://github.com/loublock/Air-Quality-Monitor

See Notes section for well working printing parameters!

Have fun!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This pumpkin needs a nice candlelight effect :-)<br>
It is not easy to capture this effect on a photo, but I think it has something. Especially when it is dark.<br>
I have made a support where you can place an attiny 85 board, and a WS2812 LED strip with diffuser. Which fit together in the pumpkin.<br>
It is better to glue the LED strip with super glue, so that it does not come loose due to the heat dissipation of the LEDs. The max number of leds I have used is 12, but 6 will also be ok to get a nice effect.</p>
<p>The code can be found here: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://pastebin.com/fzb49ZLi">https://pastebin.com/fzb49ZLi</a></p>
<p>WS2812b LED strip:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&amp;_nkw=ws2812b+led+strip&amp;_sacat=0">https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&amp;_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&amp;_nkw=ws2812b+led+strip&amp;_sacat=0</a></p>
<p>ATTINY85 board:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-ATTINY85-Micro-USB-Development-Board-for-Digispark-Kickstarter/283502117105?hash=item42020b00f1:g:R8IAAOSwoMhfQ60W">https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-ATTINY85-Micro-USB-Development-Board-for-Digispark-Kickstarter/283502117105?hash=item42020b00f1:g:R8IAAOSwoMhfQ60W</a></p>
<p>Use an ATtiny85 with Arduino IDE:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/alaspuresujay/use-an-attiny85-with-arduino-ide-07740c">https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/alaspuresujay/use-an-attiny85-with-arduino-ide-07740c</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">i3 MK3</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Additive+Heroes+Premium+Matte+Finish+PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Additive Heroes Premium Matte Finish PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Tested with PLA, encountered no problem.<br>
The LEDs get quite warm, so PETG is not a bad idea when using 12 LEDs. The max number of leds I used.</p></div>
</body></html>

Jackie Jack-o-Lantern WS2812 LED candle light

This pumpkin needs a nice candlelight effect :-)
It is not easy to capture this effect on a photo, but I think it has something. Especially when it is dark.
I have made a support where you can place an attiny 85 board, and a WS2812 LED strip with diffuser. Which fit together in the pumpkin.
It is better to glue the LED strip with super glue, so that it does not come loose due to the heat dissipation of the LEDs. The max number of leds I have used is 12, but 6 will also be ok to get a nice effect.

The code can be found here: https://pastebin.com/fzb49ZLi

WS2812b LED strip: 
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311&_nkw=ws2812b+led+strip&_sacat=0

ATTINY85 board:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-ATTINY85-Micro-USB-Development-Board-for-Digispark-Kickstarter/283502117105?hash=item42020b00f1:g:R8IAAOSwoMhfQ60W

Use an ATtiny85 with Arduino IDE:
https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/alaspuresujay/use-an-attiny85-with-arduino-ide-07740c






<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Tilt switches use a metal ball or a drop of mercury to sense if an object is tilted. The ball or the drop connect two metal contacts. If the object is tilted the connection is open.</p>
<p>This simple tilt switch is easy to build. All you need is a M5 washer (11 mm outer diameter) and two pieces of 1,5 mm^2 single strand wire.</p>
<p>The sensor works in all directions but I noticed that (seen as in the pictures) the forward/backward direction is the most reliable.</p>
<p>Keep in mind that this switch is not suited for the use with high power electricity. It works well as a sensor (e.g. for Arduino) or to switch with a transistor.</p>
<hr><p>Print and use at own risk.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>FlashForge</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Adventurer 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.18</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Everfil+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Everfil PLA                    </a>

                    Silver
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Clean-Up</strong></p>
                <div><p>Use a file to smooth the glue surfaces. Check if the wires fits in the holes. Make sure the outside of the washer is smooth. Remove oxidations and fat.</p></div>
                <p class="detail-title"><strong>Assembly: Part 1</strong></p>
                <div><p>Put the washer (without touching) in between the 3D printed pieces and stick the wires in the holes to align both halves. Use CA-glue to connect both halves. Make sure not so get glue on the washer or the wires.</p></div>
                <p class="detail-title"><strong>Assembly: Part 2</strong></p>
                <div><p>Remove the wires and solder the connection wires to them. The heat of the soldering iron will cause the copper to oxidise. Use sand paper to remove the oxide layer. Don&apos;t touch the copper wire! Stick both wires back in the holes. You may use a thick glue to keep them in place. DO NOT use CA-glus (as I did on my first print), it will cause the switch to malfunction! After the glue dried test the switch.</p></div>
</body></html>

Tilt Switch

Tilt switches use a metal ball or a drop of mercury to sense if an object is tilted. The ball or the drop connect two metal contacts. If the object is tilted the connection is open.

This simple tilt switch is easy to build. All you need is a M5 washer (11 mm outer diameter) and two pieces of 1,5 mm^2 single strand wire.

The sensor works in all directions but I noticed that (seen as in the pictures) the forward/backward direction is the most reliable.

Keep in mind that this switch is not suited for the use with high power electricity. It works well as a sensor (e.g. for Arduino) or to switch with a transistor.

_____
Print and use at own risk.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylSr4pYdo60&amp;feature=youtu.be">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylSr4pYdo60&amp;feature=youtu.be</a></p>
<p>Usa 4 servi mg 90!</p>
<p>Buon divertimento!</p>
<p>aggiornamento 6 novembre 2020: aggiunto spessore optional da mettere se necessario fra le due braccia</p>
<p>Fonti: </p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2465385">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2465385</a><br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2817517">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2817517</a><br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3405786">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3405786</a> </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Velleman</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>K8600</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=indifferente+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        indifferente PLA                    </a>

                    quello che vuoi
</body></html>

Robot Pedro arm Bendercrusoe Edition!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylSr4pYdo60&feature=youtu.be

Usa 4 servi mg 90!

Buon divertimento!

aggiornamento 6 novembre 2020: aggiunto spessore optional da mettere se necessario fra le due braccia


Fonti: 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2465385
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2817517 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3405786 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>DIN Rail mount for an Arduino Nano.</h3>
<p>Designed to be used with<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:1393685">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1393685</a></p>
<h3>Build List</h3>
<ul><li>1 x Arduino Nano</li>
<li>2 x thing:1393685</li>
<li>1 x DIN Rail Mount</li>
</ul><h3>Usage</h3>
<p>For best usage, solder the headers for the Nano facing &quot;up&quot;. Carefully maneuver the two<br>
arms outward and slide the nano into the slot allocated. It should be retained by the arms<br>
and the two little blocks on the inside cutout.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=eSun+3D++PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        eSun 3D  PETG                    </a>

                    Orange
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>You need supports since the retaining blocks are cantilevered sections.</p></div>
</body></html>

Arduino Nano - DIN Mount Plate

# DIN Rail mount for an Arduino Nano.

Designed to be used with
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1393685

## Build List

- 1 x Arduino Nano
- 2 x thing:1393685
- 1 x DIN Rail Mount

## Usage

For best usage, solder the headers for the Nano facing "up". Carefully maneuver the two
arms outward and slide the nano into the slot allocated. It should be retained by the arms
and the two little blocks on the inside cutout.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>You will need aluminum foil and hot glue to make the horn radio-tight. Also soldering and wires, etc.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>50%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>normal PLA print. Quality is not important here. 50% infill. See pictures.</p></div>
</body></html>

RCWL-0516 radar directional horn motion sensor

You will need aluminum foil and hot glue to make the horn radio-tight. Also soldering and wires, etc.


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Hi,<br>
hier mein Bluetooth gesteuerter VW 181!</p>
<p>Dieser wird mit Hilfe eines Arduino Nano und eines Bluetooth Moduls (HC-05 oder HC-06) ferngelenkt.</p>
<p>Der Batteriekasten stammt von hier: <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2668159">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2668159</a><br>
Die Karosserie habe ich von hier genommen: <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:726759">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:726759</a></p>
<p>Die Ansteuerung des Motors &#xFC;bernimmt ein einfacher Fahrtregler (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.ebay.de/itm/Fahrtenregler-20A-mit-BEC-sehr-kleine-Bauform-Schneller-Versand-aus-Deutschland/283872806706?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&amp;_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648">https://www.ebay.de/itm/Fahrtenregler-20A-mit-BEC-sehr-kleine-Bauform-Schneller-Versand-aus-Deutschland/283872806706?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&amp;_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648</a>)</p>
<p>Der Motor stammt aus einem alten RC Helikopter und hat ca. 25 mm Durchmesser (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.ebay.de/itm/Hauptmotor-WLtoys-V913-14-Hauptmotor-RC-Helikopter-Ersatzteile/402505951179?hash=item5db73967cb:g:PbwAAOSwORpfkAiy">https://www.ebay.de/itm/Hauptmotor-WLtoys-V913-14-Hauptmotor-RC-Helikopter-Ersatzteile/402505951179?hash=item5db73967cb:g:PbwAAOSwORpfkAiy</a>)</p>
<p>F&#xFC;r die Fernsteuerung via Handy benutze ich die RoboRemo App, ein Profil findet man in den Dateien, ebenso den Quelltext f&#xFC;r den Arduino.</p>
<p>Des weiteren braucht man noch 6 Kugellager 5x11x4 (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.ebay.de/itm/10-Kugellager-MR-115-2RS-5-x-11-x-4-mm/252187287195?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amp;hash=item3ab7889e9b:g:RaYAAOSwEeFU3KDL&amp;amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrDx%252B2NLp21dg6hHbHAkGMZV1N1HnAl4N6S0DlOa4qbdXOy3azzR2r8DUO%252BKXzxOUrVr56fdY657woIWZHuNp3tS8w8H8z15ISCgFKR%252FgVeAjInk9UGoPAOjvcjm7Z0JBXFOxp%252FEwnDg8aXz9kU4WUGft0TFD7D4pj1J%252FXkaWSXOA6uRer6iMIx76hWSiEiCMUR2AEUvPbpoWkDO0Ca4nsn8FdFi99lSRooYsHzaOUfBzR%252F4HfmjfdQ%252FTkAmBGrHe4kvw0I5jZEdiPhOEOEmeGRKnhQhOBHKFQdTO4jNjzWH0RfhmvK6m5pYaXaGzwgCla3YjVwEC6CsOP%252BjSB4PvB16ZhZmTSu4CZkL5G28PNsqOYSvEX3jjw6U0mkFi3yd5MQjSDucVJEsMoa5atEhNy0zlBZHU7G6pF1Apd%252FdR7UoFzilIcjoaZyysNACFBO0tdguVW2%252FGy52gZhGntbd%252BUzBuAFQvKzuWqcTJxdm3FEQzXa0QWOsqqhLX7qi00zS7T%252BoX989tNs%252FxdWpAGP9eyvJkWbrrWFHgQWXKrZ1n4iZpW%252F6RZwIdfOGVSS7IBIk7kCQ%252FGtYd%252FkYPCIJ%252BjucbUWOuJrzgihiTXkyNCluf9LiQS93jdeAicDyZ%252FdQXgMMYtM3JcMHxJ1Dx4vdGgp36XmllvvK1ff6jd4M92cAIej3RPu5mo%252F0%252BuTuXMYIzq3hwUsS%252B%252B2ttl7fxeDCa%252FGYZTaYzbmpp86UIsmK5edQnJa4TKYNVrHjOVXsgTBi26XmSoXXVWDIldF%252FPttwcWsfgfA%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A252187287195196b021c815d4927857068404d2e66d6%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524">https://www.ebay.de/itm/10-Kugellager-MR-115-2RS-5-x-11-x-4-mm/252187287195?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amp;hash=item3ab7889e9b:g:RaYAAOSwEeFU3KDL&amp;amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrDx%252B2NLp21dg6hHbHAkGMZV1N1HnAl4N6S0DlOa4qbdXOy3azzR2r8DUO%252BKXzxOUrVr56fdY657woIWZHuNp3tS8w8H8z15ISCgFKR%252FgVeAjInk9UGoPAOjvcjm7Z0JBXFOxp%252FEwnDg8aXz9kU4WUGft0TFD7D4pj1J%252FXkaWSXOA6uRer6iMIx76hWSiEiCMUR2AEUvPbpoWkDO0Ca4nsn8FdFi99lSRooYsHzaOUfBzR%252F4HfmjfdQ%252FTkAmBGrHe4kvw0I5jZEdiPhOEOEmeGRKnhQhOBHKFQdTO4jNjzWH0RfhmvK6m5pYaXaGzwgCla3YjVwEC6CsOP%252BjSB4PvB16ZhZmTSu4CZkL5G28PNsqOYSvEX3jjw6U0mkFi3yd5MQjSDucVJEsMoa5atEhNy0zlBZHU7G6pF1Apd%252FdR7UoFzilIcjoaZyysNACFBO0tdguVW2%252FGy52gZhGntbd%252BUzBuAFQvKzuWqcTJxdm3FEQzXa0QWOsqqhLX7qi00zS7T%252BoX989tNs%252FxdWpAGP9eyvJkWbrrWFHgQWXKrZ1n4iZpW%252F6RZwIdfOGVSS7IBIk7kCQ%252FGtYd%252FkYPCIJ%252BjucbUWOuJrzgihiTXkyNCluf9LiQS93jdeAicDyZ%252FdQXgMMYtM3JcMHxJ1Dx4vdGgp36XmllvvK1ff6jd4M92cAIej3RPu5mo%252F0%252BuTuXMYIzq3hwUsS%252B%252B2ttl7fxeDCa%252FGYZTaYzbmpp86UIsmK5edQnJa4TKYNVrHjOVXsgTBi26XmSoXXVWDIldF%252FPttwcWsfgfA%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A252187287195196b021c815d4927857068404d2e66d6%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524</a>), ein paar diverse Schrauben M3 und M5</p>
<p>Bei Fragen einfach in die Kommentare schreiben!</p>
<p>Der Zusammenbau sollte sich aus den Bildern ergeben.</p>
<p>&#xC4;nderung am 31.10.2020: Kennzeichen und Tacho hinzugef&#xFC;gt.</p>
<p>&#xC4;nderung am 01.11.2020: Armaturenbrettpolsterung und Lenkrad hinzugef&#xFC;gt</p>
<p>P.S. Die Zahlen hinter den STL Dateien geben die ben&#xF6;tigte Anzahl an :-)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=NoName+PLA+%26+PETG+%26+TPU&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        NoName PLA &amp; PETG &amp; TPU                    </a>

                    Divers
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>F&#xFC;r die Achs- und Getriebeteile habe ich PETG verwendet, die Reifen habe ich mit TPU gedruckt. Der Rest ist aus PLA</p></div>
</body></html>

Bluetooth controled VW 181/Thing/Kübel

Hi,
hier mein Bluetooth gesteuerter VW 181!

Dieser wird mit Hilfe eines Arduino Nano und eines Bluetooth Moduls (HC-05 oder HC-06) ferngelenkt.

Der Batteriekasten stammt von hier: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2668159
Die Karosserie habe ich von hier genommen: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:726759

Die Ansteuerung des Motors übernimmt ein einfacher Fahrtregler (https://www.ebay.de/itm/Fahrtenregler-20A-mit-BEC-sehr-kleine-Bauform-Schneller-Versand-aus-Deutschland/283872806706?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648)

Der Motor stammt aus einem alten RC Helikopter und hat ca. 25 mm Durchmesser (https://www.ebay.de/itm/Hauptmotor-WLtoys-V913-14-Hauptmotor-RC-Helikopter-Ersatzteile/402505951179?hash=item5db73967cb:g:PbwAAOSwORpfkAiy)

Für die Fernsteuerung via Handy benutze ich die RoboRemo App, ein Profil findet man in den Dateien, ebenso den Quelltext für den Arduino.

Des weiteren braucht man noch 6 Kugellager 5x11x4 (https://www.ebay.de/itm/10-Kugellager-MR-115-2RS-5-x-11-x-4-mm/252187287195?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3ab7889e9b:g:RaYAAOSwEeFU3KDL&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACcBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrDx%252B2NLp21dg6hHbHAkGMZV1N1HnAl4N6S0DlOa4qbdXOy3azzR2r8DUO%252BKXzxOUrVr56fdY657woIWZHuNp3tS8w8H8z15ISCgFKR%252FgVeAjInk9UGoPAOjvcjm7Z0JBXFOxp%252FEwnDg8aXz9kU4WUGft0TFD7D4pj1J%252FXkaWSXOA6uRer6iMIx76hWSiEiCMUR2AEUvPbpoWkDO0Ca4nsn8FdFi99lSRooYsHzaOUfBzR%252F4HfmjfdQ%252FTkAmBGrHe4kvw0I5jZEdiPhOEOEmeGRKnhQhOBHKFQdTO4jNjzWH0RfhmvK6m5pYaXaGzwgCla3YjVwEC6CsOP%252BjSB4PvB16ZhZmTSu4CZkL5G28PNsqOYSvEX3jjw6U0mkFi3yd5MQjSDucVJEsMoa5atEhNy0zlBZHU7G6pF1Apd%252FdR7UoFzilIcjoaZyysNACFBO0tdguVW2%252FGy52gZhGntbd%252BUzBuAFQvKzuWqcTJxdm3FEQzXa0QWOsqqhLX7qi00zS7T%252BoX989tNs%252FxdWpAGP9eyvJkWbrrWFHgQWXKrZ1n4iZpW%252F6RZwIdfOGVSS7IBIk7kCQ%252FGtYd%252FkYPCIJ%252BjucbUWOuJrzgihiTXkyNCluf9LiQS93jdeAicDyZ%252FdQXgMMYtM3JcMHxJ1Dx4vdGgp36XmllvvK1ff6jd4M92cAIej3RPu5mo%252F0%252BuTuXMYIzq3hwUsS%252B%252B2ttl7fxeDCa%252FGYZTaYzbmpp86UIsmK5edQnJa4TKYNVrHjOVXsgTBi26XmSoXXVWDIldF%252FPttwcWsfgfA%253D%253D%7Ccksum%3A252187287195196b021c815d4927857068404d2e66d6%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524), ein paar diverse Schrauben M3 und M5

Bei Fragen einfach in die Kommentare schreiben!

Der Zusammenbau sollte sich aus den Bildern ergeben.

Änderung am 31.10.2020: Kennzeichen und Tacho hinzugefügt.

Änderung am 01.11.2020: Armaturenbrettpolsterung und Lenkrad hinzugefügt

P.S. Die Zahlen hinter den STL Dateien geben die benötigte Anzahl an :-)




<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Arduino LEGO unibody case</h3>
<p>Simple uni-body case for Arduino Pro 328 or Arduino UNO compatible board and it shield. In the video I did a clock countdown timer implementation with a <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001023212085.html">Arduino Multi Function Shield</a></p>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/M-o3Ci4DBz0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen="allowfullscreen"></iframe>
<h3>Instructions:</h3>
<p>For the Arduino case box you can use 0.3 resolution, for the LEGO parts, please 0.2. You should keep in mind the right position of LEGO parts, for have a good compatibility with other LEGO bricks. Please see the <a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/M-o3Ci4DBz0">VIDEO</a>.</p>
<hr><h3>If you want invite me a coffee in:</h3>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://hpsaturn.com/about/">https://hpsaturn.com/about/</a><br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://paypal.me/hpsaturn">https://paypal.me/hpsaturn</a></p>
<h3>Or support my initiative</h3>
<p>CanAir.IO Citizen network for monitoring air quality <a rel="nofollow" href="https://canair.io">https://canair.io</a></p>
<hr><h3>Source code:</h3>
<p>You can use <strong>Arduino IDE</strong> or <strong>PlatformIO IDE</strong> for build the firmware:</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/hpsaturn/mfstimer">https://github.com/hpsaturn/mfstimer</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Artillery Genius</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=3D+Warhorse+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        3D Warhorse PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>for the Arduino case box you can use 0.3 resolution, for the LEGO parts, please 0.2. You should keep in mind the right position of LEGO parts, for have a good compatibility with other LEGO bricks. Please see the VIDEO.</p></div>
</body></html>

Arduino LEGO simple case

## Arduino LEGO unibody case

Simple uni-body case for Arduino Pro 328 or Arduino UNO compatible board and it shield. In the video I did a clock countdown timer implementation with a [Arduino Multi Function Shield](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001023212085.html)

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/M-o3Ci4DBz0" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

## Instructions:

For the Arduino case box you can use 0.3 resolution, for the LEGO parts, please 0.2. You should keep in mind the right position of LEGO parts, for have a good compatibility with other LEGO bricks. Please see the [VIDEO](https://youtu.be/M-o3Ci4DBz0).

---

## If you want invite me a coffee in:  

https://hpsaturn.com/about/  
https://paypal.me/hpsaturn

### Or support my initiative

CanAir.IO Citizen network for monitoring air quality https://canair.io

---

## Source code:

You can use **Arduino IDE** or **PlatformIO IDE** for build the firmware:

https://github.com/hpsaturn/mfstimer



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>( MY MODELS ARE ALL 10 x SMALLER, IN CURA ETC. YOU NEED TO SCALE IT UP BY THE FACTOR 10)</p>
<p>The required equipment to experiment with photonics and optics is quite expensive and often not affordable for a private person. As i wanted to experiment with it and build my own instruments to be able to do even more experiments at home i thought lets give it a try designing and 3D printing it yourself.</p>
<p>You can find a more detailed description on my blog:</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://mta-l.blogspot.com/2020/09/3d-printed-optical-breadboard-and.html">https://mta-l.blogspot.com/2020/09/3d-printed-optical-breadboard-and.html</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>anet a8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=noname+ABS&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        noname ABS                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Introduction<br>
The required equipment to experiment with photonics and optics is quite expensive and often not affordable for a private person. As i wanted to experiment with it and build my own instruments to be able to do even more experiments at home i thought lets give it a try designing and 3D printing it yourself.</p>
<p>Abstract<br>
The following models are designed in blender and printed with ABS as it is for me the best material in terms of strength and durability.<br>
Breadboard<br>
The main part is the optical breadboard which dimensions are 20 x 20 cm and consists of 10 x 10 holes to fit M3 screws to mount the optical stages onto. The board itself is printed very thin, so to give the board more weight and stability i filled the back side with approximately 80 ml of an epoxy resin. After hardening i used an M3 thread cutter to cut a thread into all 100 holes of the board. As seen in the pictures the smoothing of the ABS with acetone and heat didnt work quite well, as an appropriate setup for this was not available.</p>
<p>It is strongly advised to spray acetone onto the printed parts even if they might look not so clear afterwards as it strengthens the connections between the layers very much. Otherwise parts might break during the assembly.</p>
<p>3 Stages system<br>
To make very fine adjustments possible, it is required to move the components accurately in the X and Y axis and rotate them. The 3 stage system consists of the 1. stage which is screwed directly onto the breadboard. It uses a 4,5 cm long M3 screw as a shaft to adjust the 2. stage finely in one axis. The 2. stage needs to be drilled with an 3,5 mm drill to allow a brass screw socket with also an 3M thread to be inserted. do this carefully as if done with too much tension the 3D print might break. The male rail knobs on the 2. and 3. stage must be cut down a little, depending on the expansion of the material used for printing. Softening the ABS with acetone prior to cutting less then 1 mm from each side of each knob proved to be a good way. Wait till the ABS is fully hard again before inserting it into the female rail socket of the previous stage, or the stages will stick together and become damaged. Screw the 4,5 cm long screw through the first stage and the brass socket of the second stage. At the exiting end, use two M3 nuts turned in opposite direction to interlock them and restrict the screw from being screwed out. Now if the screw is turned it will act as a shaft, pushing or pulling the stage depending on the rotation direction.</p>
<p>Before the same is done with the 3. stage, the top hole should be drilled with an 7,5 mm drill and then a thread for an M8 screw should be cutted into it using a threadcutter. After doing this the next stepps are the same as before.</p>
<p>Tool holders<br>
The tool holders all have a shaft which needs an M8 thread cutted into.<br>
So it can be smoothly screwed into the 3. stage and then rotated to guide the light path.<br>
A cheap thread cutter might prove problematic as the screw thread and socket thread might have a bit of air in between them when screwed together. That way there is still movement and vibration possible which shouldnt be allowed to happen.</p></div>
</body></html>

Optical breadboard and toolset

( MY MODELS ARE ALL 10 x SMALLER, IN CURA ETC. YOU NEED TO SCALE IT UP BY THE FACTOR 10)

The required equipment to experiment with photonics and optics is quite expensive and often not affordable for a private person. As i wanted to experiment with it and build my own instruments to be able to do even more experiments at home i thought lets give it a try designing and 3D printing it yourself.

You can find a more detailed description on my blog:

 https://mta-l.blogspot.com/2020/09/3d-printed-optical-breadboard-and.html


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I designed some enclosures for PZEM 013 DC Multi-Function Meter and PZEM 022 AC kits to make portable Current draw and voltage fluctuation for generators, invertors, automotive, and battery banks when running a load among other values. Here is a demo video of it in action: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://youtu.be/_2YjzA-wS6E">https://youtu.be/_2YjzA-wS6E</a></p>
<p>The PZEM 013 DC Multi-Function Meter case base includes a covered well to safely hold the 100 AMP shunt and wire connections.  There is plenty of space to add a 9v low voltage battery and switch if you will be using this to measure 9v or less to power the meter display. I recommend using a male &amp; female 2.1mm plug DC power pigtails with 22 AWG wire leads for input and output, as the plugs will seat snugly in the 10mm end holes.</p>
<p>The PZEM 022 AC Mult-Function Meter case base has space for the Rogowski coil and 16 AWG AC wiring.   I cut in half a 3 foot extension (16 AWG NEMA-5-15R to NEMA 5-15P). The circuit diagram calls for several 3 way connections so I used solder &amp; wire nuts to ensure to reduce chance of an internal short.</p>
<p>Print with ABS.  If this is going to be used out doors, I recommend sealing the enclosure lid with Silicone Adhesive. For extra rugged use, mask display and coat the entire box in Silicone Adhesive and then dip in the lower half to the rim in epoxy resin.  This will make a cushioned, tough shell.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>TEVO</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2BZ2yKm?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">Tornado</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=ABS+or+PETG+ABS&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        ABS or PETG ABS                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used red PETG &amp; White ABS in the images above.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/_2YjzA-wS6E" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/23/5a/dd/38/fd/IMG_1057.JPG"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/fe/de/82/ce/54/IMG_1058.JPG"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/80/36/93/3a/08/PZEM013_enclosure.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/81/16/8b/be/dc/PZEM022_enclosure.jpg"></p>
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PZEM Multi-Function Meter Enclosures

I designed some enclosures for PZEM 013 DC Multi-Function Meter and PZEM 022 AC kits to make portable Current draw and voltage fluctuation for generators, invertors, automotive, and battery banks when running a load among other values. Here is a demo video of it in action: https://youtu.be/_2YjzA-wS6E

The PZEM 013 DC Multi-Function Meter case base includes a covered well to safely hold the 100 AMP shunt and wire connections.  There is plenty of space to add a 9v low voltage battery and switch if you will be using this to measure 9v or less to power the meter display. I recommend using a male & female 2.1mm plug DC power pigtails with 22 AWG wire leads for input and output, as the plugs will seat snugly in the 10mm end holes.

The PZEM 022 AC Mult-Function Meter case base has space for the Rogowski coil and 16 AWG AC wiring.   I cut in half a 3 foot extension (16 AWG NEMA-5-15R to NEMA 5-15P). The circuit diagram calls for several 3 way connections so I used solder & wire nuts to ensure to reduce chance of an internal short.

Print with ABS.  If this is going to be used out doors, I recommend sealing the enclosure lid with Silicone Adhesive. For extra rugged use, mask display and coat the entire box in Silicone Adhesive and then dip in the lower half to the rim in epoxy resin.  This will make a cushioned, tough shell.

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