Shapeways have introduced a new addition to their materials lineup - aluminium meaning a material with a higher strength to weight ratio than any other.

Shapeways Introduces Aluminium as New 3D Printing Material | All3DP

3D Hubs is the first 3D printing service to offer fiber-reinforced nylon, which makes printed objects even stronger than aluminum!

Fiber-Reinforced Nylon as Strong as Aluminium | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Basic Clamp for 20X20 Aluminium Extrusion. Untested.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+TPU+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex TPU                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

Clamp - 20X20 Section

Basic Clamp for 20X20 Aluminium Extrusion. Untested.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Remixed from another 3060 endcap.  I wanted it to be longer so it wouldn&apos;t blow off.</p>
<p>This object was made in Tinkercad. Edit it online <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQoMSacRMfp">https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQoMSacRMfp</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Overture+PetG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Overture PetG                    </a>

                    Black
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<div><p>Imported <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:3024670">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3024670</a></p>
<p>This object was made in Tinkercad. Edit it online <a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQoMSacRMfp">https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQoMSacRMfp</a></p>
<p>I had to run it through Netfab to get a fixed result.</p></div>
</body></html>

Elongated 3060 Aluminum Extrusion Endcap

Remixed from another 3060 endcap.  I wanted it to be longer so it wouldn't blow off.

This object was made in Tinkercad. Edit it online https://www.tinkercad.com/things/kQoMSacRMfp



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Case for BTT TFT 3.5 V3.0 with snap on lid, can be mounted on 3030 and 2020 aluminum profiles without the use of screws.</p>
<p>Fusion 360 files are included so you can customize it if your aluminum profile does not match mine</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=PM+pla&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        PM pla                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

BTT TFT 3.5 V3.0 Case for 3030 and 2020 Aluprofiles

Case for BTT TFT 3.5 V3.0 with snap on lid, can be mounted on 3030 and 2020 aluminum profiles without the use of screws.

Fusion 360 files are included so you can customize it if your aluminum profile does not match mine

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This piece was designed for art macrophotography, the idea was to create a kind of truss system, but using cheap materials, so that&apos;s we came up with.<br>
The piece it&apos;s design for our Gslot aluminum profile, but if you like the idea, we will add the step file in case that you want to adapt it to another type of profile.</p>
<p>You will create a 8080 truss.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Mendel Max XL V6</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Sprectrum+Filaments+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Sprectrum Filaments PETG                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Gslot 8080 Joint

This piece was designed for art macrophotography, the idea was to create a kind of truss system, but using cheap materials, so that's we came up with.
The piece it's design for our Gslot aluminum profile, but if you like the idea, we will add the step file in case that you want to adapt it to another type of profile.

You will create a 8080 truss.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><h3>Deutsch</h3>
<p>Das ist meine Version eines Exo-Skeletts f&#xFC;r den Anet A8. Die Teile sind dabei aber so simpel gestaltet, dass aus ihnen durchaus auch Gestelle und Rahmen f&#xFC;r andere Dinge hergestellt werden k&#xF6;nnen.</p>
<p>Zun&#xE4;chst hatte ich die Versteifung des A8 mit diagonalen M8 Gewindest&#xE4;ben wie sie oft zu sehen ist. Diese war mir aber aus 4 Gr&#xFC;nden nicht mehr gut genug:</p>
<ul><li>Optik</li>
<li>St&#xF6;rend beim zugriff auf den Bauraum</li>
<li>Die seitlichen Originalteile des Rahmens konnten immer noch in sich verdrehen (Torsion)</li>
<li>Umst&#xE4;ndlich auszurichten wenn man an der Z-Achse gebaut hat.</li>
</ul><p>Mein Exo-Skelett besteht im Wesentlich aus Aluminium Profilen vom Baumarkt in den Abmessung 27,5 x 15,5mm. Selbst gedruckt kommen hinzu:</p>
<ul><li>4 Ecken bestehen aus je 2 Teilen (Au&#xDF;enteil in 2 Versionen)</li>
<li>4 Standf&#xFC;&#xDF;e</li>
<li>2 Einfassungen f&#xFC;r den Originalrahmen bestehen aus Oberteil, Unterteil und Schale f&#xFC;r 806Z Kugellager (Optional)</li>
<li>2 T-St&#xFC;cken f&#xFC;r die Querstrebe </li>
<li>2 Halterungen mit 30&#xB0; Drehung f&#xFC;r M8 Gewindestab (Diagonale Festigung)</li>
</ul><p>Die Einfassungen ersetzen die oberen Abdeckungen f&#xFC;r die Linearf&#xFC;hrung und fassen den Anet A8 Rahmen formb&#xFC;ndig. Sie besitzen eine Durchf&#xFC;hrung f&#xFC;r das Aluminiumprofil. Die Unterseite hat eine Aufnahme f&#xFC;r die die Linearf&#xFC;hrung, welche sehr eng gehalten ist um Schwingungen zu reduzieren. Zus&#xE4;tzlich kann ein Kugellage f&#xFC;r die Trapetzgewindestange eingesetzt werden. Dies ist Optional, da es hier verschiedenen Meinungen gibt ob das gut und sinnvoll ist oder nicht. F&#xFC;r meinen A8 funktioniert es super, aber ich habe hochwertige Linearf&#xFC;hrungen und Spindeln eingesetzt an Stelle der Originalen Teile.</p>
<p>Der Rahmen ist f&#xFC;r die Montage auf einer Grundplatte (zusammen mit dem A8) gedacht. Bei richtigem Aufbau korrigiert er Neigungen in allen Achsen welche durch den Originalrahmen nicht sicher vermieden werden k&#xF6;nnen. Durch Reduzierung von Torsion und in Verbindung mit einer Rahmenverst&#xE4;rkung des A8 sind hohe Genauigkeiten bei hohen Geschwindigkeiten (100mm/s) durchaus machbar.</p>
<p><b>Achtung! Dadurch, dass der Wagen f&#xFC;r den Extruder bei Verwendung des Kugellagers f&#xFC;r die Spindel nicht mehr so leicht um die X-Achse Kippen kann muss genau auf die Extrudereinstellung geachtet werden, sonst kann der Druckkopf an zu dicken Layern h&#xE4;ngen bleiben und die Y-Achse verliert dabei schon mal ganz gerne ein paar Schritte.</b></p>
<p>Die Teile sind sehr eng ausgelegt, ggf. m&#xFC;sst Ihr sie nach dem Druck nachbearbeiten oder entsprechend Skalieren. Zu locker sollten sie nicht sitzen.  </p>
<p>Hoffe mein nunmehr 13ter Beitrag gef&#xE4;llt euch. Fragen und Anregung gerne in den Kommentaren. Freue mich &#xFC;ber Makes und Likes. </p>
<p><span style="color: blue;"><br>
Wer etwas spenden m&#xF6;chte kann dies &#xFC;ber Paypal gerne tun.<br>
paypal.me/TorstenJust</span></p>
<p>Habt Spa&#xDF; beim Drucken! :)</p>
<p><b>Update:</b><br>
12.11.2020 - Fehlende T-St&#xFC;cke erg&#xE4;nzt und Halterungen f&#xFC;r diagonale Verstrebung hinzugef&#xFC;gt</p>
<h3>English </h3>
<p>(Google-Translation)</p>
<p>This is my version of an exoskeleton for the Anet A8. The parts are designed so simply that they can also be used to make racks and frames for other things.</p>
<p>First, I had the stiffening of the A8 with diagonal M8 threaded rods as you can often see them. But this was no longer good enough for me for 4 reasons:</p>
<ul><li>optics</li>
<li>Disruptive when accessing the installation space</li>
<li>The original side parts of the frame could still twist in themselves (torsion)</li>
<li>Difficult to align when you have built on the Z-axis.</li>
</ul><p>My exo-skeleton consists essentially of aluminum profiles from the hardware store in the dimensions 27.5 x 15.5mm. Also printed are:</p>
<ul><li>4 corners consist of 2 parts each (Outer Part in 2 Versions)</li>
<li>4 feet</li>
<li>2 frames for the original frame consist of an upper part, a lower part and a shell for 806Z ball bearings (optional)</li>
<li>2 T-pieces for the cross brace</li>
<li>2 brackets with 30 &#xB0; rotation for M8 threaded rod (diagonal fastening)</li>
</ul><p>The bezels replace the upper covers for the linear guide and hold the Anet A8 frame flush. They have a bushing for the aluminum profile. The underside has a mount for the linear guide, which is kept very close to reduce vibrations. In addition, a ball bearing can be used for the trapezoidal threaded rod. This is optional, as there are different opinions as to whether this is good and sensible or not. It works great for my A8, but I used high quality linear guides and spindles instead of the original parts.</p>
<p>The frame is intended for mounting on a base plate (together with the A8). If set up correctly, it corrects inclinations in all axes which cannot be safely avoided with the original frame. By reducing torsion and in connection with a frame reinforcement of the A8, high accuracies at high speeds (100mm / s) are quite feasible.</p>
<p><b> Attention! Because the carriage for the extruder can no longer tilt so easily around the X-axis when using the ball bearing for the spindle, you must pay close attention to the extruder setting, otherwise the print head can get stuck on layers that are too thick and possibly lose a few steps on y-axis. </b></p>
<p>The parts are designed very tightly, you may have to rework them after printing or scale them accordingly. They shouldn&apos;t sit too loosely.</p>
<p>Hope you like my now 13th post. Questions and suggestions are welcome in the comments. I&apos;m happy about makes and likes.</p>
<p><span style="color: blue;"><br>
If you want to donate some money, you can do so via PayPal.<br>
paypal.me/TorstenJust </span></p>
<p>Have fun printing! :)</p>
<p><b> Update: </b><br>
11/12/2020 - Missing T-Pieces added and brackets for diagonal bracing added</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>60%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Any+PLA%2C+PETG+or+other&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Any PLA, PETG or other                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Ich habe meine Teile aus PLA gefertigt, wom&#xF6;glich w&#xE4;re PETG besser geeignet um den Schwingungen dauerhaft zu widerstehen. Die Zeit wird es zeigen. :)</p>
<p>Google-Translation:<br>
I made my parts from PLA, maybe PETG would be better suited to permanently withstand the vibrations. The time will tell. :)</p></div>
</body></html>

Modular exoskeleton for Anet A8 or frame parts for other devices

<h1>Deutsch</h1>

Das ist meine Version eines Exo-Skeletts für den Anet A8. Die Teile sind dabei aber so simpel gestaltet, dass aus ihnen durchaus auch Gestelle und Rahmen für andere Dinge hergestellt werden können.

Zunächst hatte ich die Versteifung des A8 mit diagonalen M8 Gewindestäben wie sie oft zu sehen ist. Diese war mir aber aus 4 Gründen nicht mehr gut genug:
- Optik
- Störend beim zugriff auf den Bauraum
- Die seitlichen Originalteile des Rahmens konnten immer noch in sich verdrehen (Torsion)
- Umständlich auszurichten wenn man an der Z-Achse gebaut hat.

Mein Exo-Skelett besteht im Wesentlich aus Aluminium Profilen vom Baumarkt in den Abmessung 27,5 x 15,5mm. Selbst gedruckt kommen hinzu:

- 4 Ecken bestehen aus je 2 Teilen (Außenteil in 2 Versionen)
- 4 Standfüße
- 2 Einfassungen für den Originalrahmen bestehen aus Oberteil, Unterteil und Schale für 806Z Kugellager (Optional)
- 2 T-Stücken für die Querstrebe 
- 2 Halterungen mit 30° Drehung für M8 Gewindestab (Diagonale Festigung)

Die Einfassungen ersetzen die oberen Abdeckungen für die Linearführung und fassen den Anet A8 Rahmen formbündig. Sie besitzen eine Durchführung für das Aluminiumprofil. Die Unterseite hat eine Aufnahme für die die Linearführung, welche sehr eng gehalten ist um Schwingungen zu reduzieren. Zusätzlich kann ein Kugellage für die Trapetzgewindestange eingesetzt werden. Dies ist Optional, da es hier verschiedenen Meinungen gibt ob das gut und sinnvoll ist oder nicht. Für meinen A8 funktioniert es super, aber ich habe hochwertige Linearführungen und Spindeln eingesetzt an Stelle der Originalen Teile.

Der Rahmen ist für die Montage auf einer Grundplatte (zusammen mit dem A8) gedacht. Bei richtigem Aufbau korrigiert er Neigungen in allen Achsen welche durch den Originalrahmen nicht sicher vermieden werden können. Durch Reduzierung von Torsion und in Verbindung mit einer Rahmenverstärkung des A8 sind hohe Genauigkeiten bei hohen Geschwindigkeiten (100mm/s) durchaus machbar.

<b>Achtung! Dadurch, dass der Wagen für den Extruder bei Verwendung des Kugellagers für die Spindel nicht mehr so leicht um die X-Achse Kippen kann muss genau auf die Extrudereinstellung geachtet werden, sonst kann der Druckkopf an zu dicken Layern hängen bleiben und die Y-Achse verliert dabei schon mal ganz gerne ein paar Schritte.</b>

Die Teile sind sehr eng ausgelegt, ggf. müsst Ihr sie nach dem Druck nachbearbeiten oder entsprechend Skalieren. Zu locker sollten sie nicht sitzen.  

Hoffe mein nunmehr 13ter Beitrag gefällt euch. Fragen und Anregung gerne in den Kommentaren. Freue mich über Makes und Likes. 

<font color="blue">
Wer etwas spenden möchte kann dies über Paypal gerne tun.
paypal.me/TorstenJust</font>


Habt Spaß beim Drucken! :)

<b>Update:</b>
12.11.2020 - Fehlende T-Stücke ergänzt und Halterungen für diagonale Verstrebung hinzugefügt


<h1>English </h1>
(Google-Translation)


This is my version of an exoskeleton for the Anet A8. The parts are designed so simply that they can also be used to make racks and frames for other things.

First, I had the stiffening of the A8 with diagonal M8 threaded rods as you can often see them. But this was no longer good enough for me for 4 reasons:
- optics
- Disruptive when accessing the installation space
- The original side parts of the frame could still twist in themselves (torsion)
- Difficult to align when you have built on the Z-axis.

My exo-skeleton consists essentially of aluminum profiles from the hardware store in the dimensions 27.5 x 15.5mm. Also printed are:

- 4 corners consist of 2 parts each (Outer Part in 2 Versions)
- 4 feet
- 2 frames for the original frame consist of an upper part, a lower part and a shell for 806Z ball bearings (optional)
- 2 T-pieces for the cross brace
- 2 brackets with 30 ° rotation for M8 threaded rod (diagonal fastening)

The bezels replace the upper covers for the linear guide and hold the Anet A8 frame flush. They have a bushing for the aluminum profile. The underside has a mount for the linear guide, which is kept very close to reduce vibrations. In addition, a ball bearing can be used for the trapezoidal threaded rod. This is optional, as there are different opinions as to whether this is good and sensible or not. It works great for my A8, but I used high quality linear guides and spindles instead of the original parts.

The frame is intended for mounting on a base plate (together with the A8). If set up correctly, it corrects inclinations in all axes which cannot be safely avoided with the original frame. By reducing torsion and in connection with a frame reinforcement of the A8, high accuracies at high speeds (100mm / s) are quite feasible.

<b> Attention! Because the carriage for the extruder can no longer tilt so easily around the X-axis when using the ball bearing for the spindle, you must pay close attention to the extruder setting, otherwise the print head can get stuck on layers that are too thick and possibly lose a few steps on y-axis. </b>

The parts are designed very tightly, you may have to rework them after printing or scale them accordingly. They shouldn't sit too loosely.

Hope you like my now 13th post. Questions and suggestions are welcome in the comments. I'm happy about makes and likes.

<font color = "blue">
If you want to donate some money, you can do so via PayPal.
paypal.me/TorstenJust </font>


Have fun printing! :)


<b> Update: </b>
11/12/2020 - Missing T-Pieces added and brackets for diagonal bracing added


<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Needs M5x10mm, M5x10mm or M5x6mm bolt, and 4mm wide PTFE tube.<br>
Use 4mm drill bit if PTFE tube doesn&apos;t wand to go through the hole.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Noname+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Noname PLA                    </a>

                    Orange
</body></html>

Ball Joint Filament Guide for 2040 Extrusion

Needs M5x10mm, M5x10mm or M5x6mm bolt, and 4mm wide PTFE tube.
Use 4mm drill bit if PTFE tube doesn't wand to go through the hole.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>damper system and level system</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>30</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=amazon+pla+and+tpu+&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        amazon pla and tpu                     </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>print the feet 4040 with pla and the the screw in tpu . </p></div>
</body></html>

damper system for 4040 profile

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link  ">
                                            <p>This is a customizable 3d model&#xA0;that allows you to create and print aluminum extrusion brackets for different types and sizes of extrusion profiles.</p>
<p>I&apos;ve also added the 21 brackets for 2020 and for the short side of the 2040 profile as .stl files.</p>
<p>&#xA0;</p>
<p><strong>Customizable Aluminium Extrusion Series</strong></p>
<p>This is my first part of a series of customizable aluminium extrusion parts. Follow me, if you want to be informed about a new part of this series!</p>
<p>&#xA0;</p>
<p><strong>Customizable Settings</strong></p>
<p><br>Use OpenSCAD to create your own customized set of brackets.</p>
<p>You only need to set these few parameters to get all the 21 brackets automatically:</p>
<ul>
<li>width of mounting side of the extrusion profile (20mm for 2020 profile)</li>
<li>length and thickness of the bracket</li>
<li>number of rails (2020 has 1, 2040 has 1 and 2 rails)</li>
<li>screw hole settings</li>
</ul>
<p>&#xA0;</p>
<p><strong>How to support me?</strong></p>
<p>Do you like my things and do you want to support me? You can use these links if you want to buy something. This helps me doing more things. Thanks!</p>
<p>Banggood: https://goo.gl/ZXgx3A<br>Gearbest: https://goo.gl/FfE59f<br>Aliexpress: https://goo.gl/bQLi15</p>
										</div>
										
                                    								</body></html>

Customizable Plate Bracket for Aluminium Extrusion Profiles (Misumi 2020, 2040, 4040, ...)

 This is a customizable 3d model that allows you to create and print aluminum extrusion brackets for different types and sizes of extrusion profiles. I've also added the 21 brackets for 2020 and for the short side of the 2040 profile as .stl files. Customizable Aluminium Extrusion Series This is my first part of a series of customizable aluminium extrusion parts. Follow me, if you want to be informed about a new part of this series! Customizable Settings Use OpenSCAD to create your own customized set of brackets. You only need to set these few parameters to get all the 21 brackets automatically: width of mounting side of the extrusion profile (20mm for 2020 profile) length and thickness of the bracket number of rails (2020 has 1, 2040 has 1 and 2 rails) screw hole settings How to support me? Do you like my things and do you want to support me? You can use these links if you want to buy something. This helps me doing more things. Thanks! Banggood: https://goo.gl/ZXgx3AGearbest: https://goo.gl/FfE59fAliexpress: https://goo.gl/bQLi15 

<p>I wanted to mount some cables to my Prusa MINI&apos;s Z alu profile using something reusable - that&apos;s how this rachet was born.</p>

<p>The &quot;T-nut ratchet for 30 mm alu extrusion profile.stl&quot; contains a pocket for an M3 nut. You can fix it with a 15 mm M3 bolt.</p>

<p>I have iterated a simplier version with an M4 hole to use it with a proper T-nut.</p>

<p>Link to the design: <a href="https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue282d3d0/shares/public/SH56a43QTfd62c1cd9685643e0a1951e2bb3" rel="external">https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue282d3d0/shares/public/SH56a43QTfd62c1cd9685643e0a1951e2bb3</a></p>

<p>Update #20200211 - new features:</p>

<ul>
<li>t-nut turns only one way</li>
<li>ejector hole for the M3 nut</li>
<li>countersunk slot for the M3 bolt</li>
<li>more room for the hex key / screwdriver</li>
<li>extra teeth for tighter lock</li>
<li>smaller and 60&#xB0; teeth for easier operation</li>
<li>left side of the rachet will not overhang on the 30x30 profile hence allows easier installation even if something is already installed on the side of the profile</li>
</ul>

<p><iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/bvUciTL83wk" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>

<p>Blogpost about the design process (sorry folks, Hungarian only): <a href="https://fns.pappito.com/2020/02/11/3d-nyomtatas-a-dagadt-csirke/" rel="external">https://fns.pappito.com/2020/02/11/3d-nyomtatas-a-dagadt-csirke/</a></p>


Rachet with t-nut for 30 mm aluminium extrusion profiles

I wanted to mount some cables to my Prusa MINI's Z alu profile using something reusable - that's how this rachet was born.

The "T-nut ratchet for 30 mm alu extrusion profile.stl" contains a pocket for an M3 nut. You can fix it with a 15 mm M3 bolt.

I have iterated a simplier version with an M4 hole to use it with a proper T-nut.

Link to the design: https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue282d3d0/shares/public/SH56a43QTfd62c1cd9685643e0a1951e2bb3

Update #20200211 - new features:


t-nut turns only one way
ejector hole for the M3 nut
countersunk slot for the M3 bolt
more room for the hex key / screwdriver
extra teeth for tighter lock
smaller and 60° teeth for easier operation
left side of the rachet will not overhang on the 30x30 profile hence allows easier installation even if something is already installed on the side of the profile




Blogpost about the design process (sorry folks, Hungarian only): https://fns.pappito.com/2020/02/11/3d-nyomtatas-a-dagadt-csirke/


<p>I&apos;ve found I&apos;ve been seeing quite a lot of wobble on my aluminium plate i3 when printing. This is partly down to me printing on a wobbly table and partly due to mounting the spool on the top. So to rectify this I&apos;ve made these parts which allowed me to retrofit stabilizers to the plate making everything so much sturdier.</p><p>I didn&apos;t know the exact angle of the plate so I&apos;ve created the parts to be flexible enough to fit anywhere from 15 degrees to 35 degrees - the median point being the rough measurement of 25 degrees which I&apos;d measured in my setup (having just checked the actual angle turned out to be 20 degrees.</p><p>There are many similar designs but none that I saw had the flexibility I wanted from my design.</p><p>Enjoy.</p><p>Edit: On request I&apos;ve just added an M10 version if you&apos;re using M10 rods at the rear with 23mm centres.&#xA0;</p>


i3 frame stabilizer (15-35 degrees)

I've found I've been seeing quite a lot of wobble on my aluminium plate i3 when printing. This is partly down to me printing on a wobbly table and partly due to mounting the spool on the top. So to rectify this I've made these parts which allowed me to retrofit stabilizers to the plate making everything so much sturdier.I didn't know the exact angle of the plate so I've created the parts to be flexible enough to fit anywhere from 15 degrees to 35 degrees - the median point being the rough measurement of 25 degrees which I'd measured in my setup (having just checked the actual angle turned out to be 20 degrees.There are many similar designs but none that I saw had the flexibility I wanted from my design.Enjoy.Edit: On request I've just added an M10 version if you're using M10 rods at the rear with 23mm centres. 


Thingscanner

Some articles you might like

Shapeways Introduces Aluminium as New 3D Printing Material | All3DP

Fiber-Reinforced Nylon as Strong as Aluminium | All3DP

Show Only

Looking for tag: aluminium