Acrylic is an inexpensive and versatile material used for anything from props to canopies. Spice up your home projects and learn how to cut acrylic!

Acrylic Cutter – How to Cut Acrylic | All3DP

Acrylic is a fantastic material to create intricate designs. With a Laser Cutter, you can cut any 2D design you want! In this article, we explain the process of creating a vectorial design and share a few hints to simplify the intricate process of laser cutting acrylic.

Acrylic Laser Cutting – Best Ways to Get the Job Done | All3DP

PMMA, better known as acrylic, is UV-resistant and acetone-soluble. Read on to find out all about PMMA filament and the best brands!

PMMA Filament: The Basics & Best Brands | All3DP

Plexiglass, a type of acrylic, is a common material used in hobby projects. In this guide we break down how exactly cutting Plexiglass works.

Cutting Plexiglass: How to Cut Plexiglass – Simply Explained | All3DP

The Bene4 Mono is Nova3D's mono-upgraded version of the Bene4, featuring a hinged acrylic cover and WiFi connectivity. Let's take a gander through the printer's specs.

Nova3D Bene4 Mono: Specs, Price, Release & Reviews | All3DP

Have you ever wanted to make a cool sign for your desk or workplace? Look no further, for here we have a step-by-step guide to creating an amazing-looking display, using a laser cutter, LEDs and acrylic sheeting, as demonstrated by pardy73 on Instructables!

[Project] Make Your Designs Glow with a Laser-Engraved LED Acrylic Sign | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div>A simple design of a piece to hold two pieces of acrylic with 5mm thickness, made on SolidWorks.
Machine: Ender 3 Pro
Color: Grey
Material: PLA
This is my design, you can share and sell but please mention my work.</div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
Printer Brand: 
 <div>Creality</div>
 
 Printer: 
 <div>Ender 3 Pro</div>
 
 Rafts: 
 <div>No</div>
 
 Supports: 
 <div>No</div>
 
 Resolution: 
 <div>0.24</div>
 
 Infill: 
 <div>15%</div>
 
 Filament: 
 <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Flashforge+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
 Flashforge PLA </a>

 Grey
</body></html>

Acrylic corner holder

A simple design of a piece to hold two pieces of acrylic with 5mm thickness, made on SolidWorks.

Machine: Ender 3 Pro

Color: Grey

Material: PLA



This is my design, you can share and sell but please mention my work.

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link ">
 &#x3010;&#x8A2D;&#x8A08;&#x7406;&#x5FF5;&#x3011; &#x3000;&#x3000;&#x4EE5;&#x53F0;&#x6771;&#x862D;&#x5DBC;&#x5E38;&#x898B;&#x7684;&#x98DB;&#x9B5A;&#x4F5C;&#x70BA;&#x4E3B;&#x9AD4;&#xFF0C;&#x4F7F;&#x7528;&#x58D3;&#x514B;&#x529B;&#x4F5C;&#x70BA;&#x5176;&#x6750;&#x8CEA;&#xFF0C;&#x5C07;&#x900F;&#x660E;&#x58D3;&#x514B;&#x529B;&#x5167;&#x6DF7;&#x5165;&#x85CD;&#x8272;&#x7D30;&#x7D72;&#x5C55;&#x73FE;&#x6D77;&#x6D6A;&#x7684;&#x6CE2;&#x6ED4;&#xFF0C;&#x800C;&#x4F5C;&#x54C1;&#x4EE5;&#x98DB;&#x9B5A;&#x5728;&#x851A;&#x85CD;&#x5927;&#x6D77;&#x4E2D;&#xFF0C;&#x81EA;&#x6D6A;&#x4E2D;&#x4E00;&#x8E8D;&#x800C;&#x8D77;&#x3001;&#x4E58;&#x98A8;&#x7834;&#x6D6A;&#x70BA;&#x610F;&#x8C61;&#x5448;&#x73FE;&#x3002;
&#x8A2D;&#x8A08;&#x8005;&#xFF1A;&#x8D6B;&#x73B3;&#x7FD4;(Ho Tai Hsiang)
&#x7269;&#x4EF6;&#x5C3A;&#x5BF8;&#xFF1A;(DX02)9&#xD7;11.6&#xD7;11&#x3001;(BACK)1.5&#xD7;11.5&#xD7;0.5&#x3001;(&#x7D44;&#x88DD;&#x5F8C;)9&#xD7;11.8&#xD7;11/cm
&#x3010;&#x5EFA;&#x8B70;&#x4F7F;&#x7528;&#x65B9;&#x6CD5;&#x3011; &#x8349;&#x639B; &#xFF1A;&#x591A;&#x91D8;&#x5728;&#x7A97;&#x7C3E;&#x65C1;&#x908A;&#xFF0C;&#x639B;&#x653E;&#x7D81;&#x7A97;&#x7C3E;&#x7684;&#x7E69;&#x5B50;&#x3002;
&#x3010;&#x76F8;&#x95DC;&#x9023;&#x7D50;&#x3011; &#x8ECC;&#x9053;&#x982D;&#xFF1A;<a href="https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-%E9%AD%9A%E6%80%9D%E6%B5%B7%E6%B9%A7-%E8%BB%8C%E9%81%93%E9%A0%AD-86808">https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-%E9%AD%9A%E6%80%9D%E6%B5%B7%E6%B9%A7-%E8%BB%8C%E9%81%93%E9%A0%AD-86808</a>
&#x3010;&#x6587;&#x5316;&#x5143;&#x7D20;&#x3011; &#x98DB;&#x9B5A;&#xFF0D;&#x98DB;&#x9B5A;&#x5C0D;&#x65BC;&#x53F0;&#x7063;&#x862D;&#x5DBC;&#x7684;&#x539F;&#x4F4F;&#x6C11;&#x2014;&#x2014;&#x9054;&#x609F;&#x65CF;&#x4EBA;&#x4F86;&#x8AAA;&#xFF0C;&#x662F;&#x7A2E;&#x4E3B;&#x8981;&#x7684;&#x6F01;&#x7372;&#x4EE5;&#x53CA;&#x7CE7;&#x98DF;&#xFF0C;&#x5C0D;&#x65BC;&#x98DB;&#x9B5A;&#x7684;&#x6355;&#x6293;&#x5B63;&#x7BC0;&#x3001;&#x5132;&#x5B58;&#x548C;&#x98DF;&#x7528;&#x65B9;&#x5F0F;&#x6709;&#x8457;&#x975E;&#x5E38;&#x56B4;&#x8B39;&#x7684;&#x5236;&#x5EA6;&#xFF0C;&#x98DB;&#x9B5A;&#x5B63;&#x7576;&#x4F5C;&#x6700;&#x805E;&#x540D;&#x7684;&#x796D;&#x5178;&#x4E5F;&#x662F;&#x9054;&#x609F;&#x65CF;&#x4EBA;&#x6700;&#x805E;&#x540D;&#x7684;&#x796D;&#x5178;
										</div>
										
 								</body></html>

魚思海湧 草掛

 【設計理念】 以台東蘭嶼常見的飛魚作為主體，使用壓克力作為其材質，將透明壓克力內混入藍色細絲展現海浪的波滔，而作品以飛魚在蔚藍大海中，自浪中一躍而起、乘風破浪為意象呈現。 設計者：赫玳翔(Ho Tai Hsiang) 物件尺寸：(DX02)9×11.6×11、(BACK)1.5×11.5×0.5、(組裝後)9×11.8×11/cm 【建議使用方法】草掛 ：多釘在窗簾旁邊，掛放綁窗簾的繩子。 【相關連結】軌道頭：https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-%E9%AD%9A%E6%80%9D%E6%B5%B7%E6%B9%A7-%E8%BB%8C%E9%81%93%E9%A0%AD-86808 【文化元素】飛魚－飛魚對於台灣蘭嶼的原住民——達悟族人來說，是種主要的漁獲以及糧食，對於飛魚的捕抓季節、儲存和食用方式有著非常嚴謹的制度，飛魚季當作最聞名的祭典也是達悟族人最聞名的祭典 

<html><head></head><body><div class="short-text text-auto-link ">
 After a month of problems I&#x2019;m finally able to post my end result :)
I wanted to make a portable puzzle, because I would like to take it with me and show it to other people. Most puzzles contain of loose pieces, which can easily be lost. I personally liked the idea of a maze, but a single maze would be repetitive quite fast. I came up with the idea to include a couple of puzzles and connect them to each other, by making the shape of a cube.
I designed everything in Fusion 360, which took me a couple of days. I left some space in the &#x201C;start&#x201D; and &#x201C;Finish&#x201D; sides, because I thought that it might be great for other makers to put their own design there. I also came up with the idea to make use of filament swaps, so you can have the walls printed in a different color. I wanted to make the puzzle as small as possible, so I designed it for a 1mm ball which I found in my drawer (I later created a version for a 2mm ball).
Everything went quite smoothly up to this point, but this all changed when I wanted to print. First of all, the 3D-printer I have at home (DMS DP5) isn&#x2019;t mine, so I had to wait until I was allowed to use it. After I had permission to use the printer, I started the first print and discovered that the extruder kept making this &#x201C;clicking&#x201D; sound, which led to my prints failing. After 2 weeks of troubleshooting I decided to completely disassemble and reassemble &#xA0;the hotend, which looked like it fixed all my issues. &#xA0;But after just 2 prints the auto leveling sensor stopped working, because it had literally melted. I wasn&#x2019;t able to home my printer because of this and ordering a new sensor would take a couple of weeks, which would mean that I wasn&#x2019;t able to make the deadline of the puzzle competition.
Luckily a friend of mine also had a 3D-printer. He was also actually really interested in my project, so he liked to help me with it. I gave him the filament and the files and he started printing right away. But he also didn&#x2019;t have good luck, because after the first print his PSU died. Luckily he&#x2019;s pretty&#xA0; good with electronics, so he was able to hook up a desktop PSU and continue printing. But it still wasn&#xB4;t over. He soon discovered that all the prints were mirrored, which would cause problems when assembling. He eventually fixed this and started printing all over again. But then again he discovered another problem. This time it was some kind of &#x201C;Thermal runaway&#x201D; error, which led to prints failing. This error was caused by his hotend cooling off too rapidly. He fixed the &#x201C;Thermal runaway&#x201D; error by disabling the parts cooling fan, which did decrease the quality of the prints (but I&#x2019;d rather have a finished object than nothing). He finished printing everything on the 16th, so I quickly cleaned up the prints and assembled everything.
In the end I&#x2019;m quite happy with the end result. I hadn&#x2019;t done any filament swaps before this, so it was quite satisfying to see at first. The quality of the prints could be better, but my friend had to print it all fast, because otherwise he wouldn&#x2019;t have made it. Also his Anet A8 (clone) wasn&#x2019;t really calibrated well at first, so he had some first layer height issues with some of the prints.
There were a couple of moments where I thought I wouldn&#x2019;t be able to make it in time, but that all proved to be wrong in the end.
&#xA0;
What else do you need:
&#xA0;
-&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0; 2mm thick sheet of acrylic (Plexiglass):
&#xA0;
1mm ball version (some sanding may be required to make it fit):
<ul>
<li>4x 51,5mm x 51,5mm</li>
<li>2x 60mm x 60mm</li>
</ul>
&#xA0;
-&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0; 1mm ball;
-&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0;&#xA0; Some glue that sticks on 3D-printed parts.
&#xA0;
Templates
<ul>
<li><a href="https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Jru1uMZ4q0Y_wrv4Fq4SOpKH6Zm04dfd" target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">1mm ball version</a></li>
</ul>
										</div>
										
 								</body></html>

Ball maze cube

 After a month of problems I’m finally able to post my end result :) I wanted to make a portable puzzle, because I would like to take it with me and show it to other people. Most puzzles contain of loose pieces, which can easily be lost. I personally liked the idea of a maze, but a single maze would be repetitive quite fast. I came up with the idea to include a couple of puzzles and connect them to each other, by making the shape of a cube. I designed everything in Fusion 360, which took me a couple of days. I left some space in the “start” and “Finish” sides, because I thought that it might be great for other makers to put their own design there. I also came up with the idea to make use of filament swaps, so you can have the walls printed in a different color. I wanted to make the puzzle as small as possible, so I designed it for a 1mm ball which I found in my drawer (I later created a version for a 2mm ball). Everything went quite smoothly up to this point, but this all changed when I wanted to print. First of all, the 3D-printer I have at home (DMS DP5) isn’t mine, so I had to wait until I was allowed to use it. After I had permission to use the printer, I started the first print and discovered that the extruder kept making this “clicking” sound, which led to my prints failing. After 2 weeks of troubleshooting I decided to completely disassemble and reassemble the hotend, which looked like it fixed all my issues. But after just 2 prints the auto leveling sensor stopped working, because it had literally melted. I wasn’t able to home my printer because of this and ordering a new sensor would take a couple of weeks, which would mean that I wasn’t able to make the deadline of the puzzle competition. Luckily a friend of mine also had a 3D-printer. He was also actually really interested in my project, so he liked to help me with it. I gave him the filament and the files and he started printing right away. But he also didn’t have good luck, because after the first print his PSU died. Luckily he’s pretty good with electronics, so he was able to hook up a desktop PSU and continue printing. But it still wasn´t over. He soon discovered that all the prints were mirrored, which would cause problems when assembling. He eventually fixed this and started printing all over again. But then again he discovered another problem. This time it was some kind of “Thermal runaway” error, which led to prints failing. This error was caused by his hotend cooling off too rapidly. He fixed the “Thermal runaway” error by disabling the parts cooling fan, which did decrease the quality of the prints (but I’d rather have a finished object than nothing). He finished printing everything on the 16th, so I quickly cleaned up the prints and assembled everything. In the end I’m quite happy with the end result. I hadn’t done any filament swaps before this, so it was quite satisfying to see at first. The quality of the prints could be better, but my friend had to print it all fast, because otherwise he wouldn’t have made it. Also his Anet A8 (clone) wasn’t really calibrated well at first, so he had some first layer height issues with some of the prints. There were a couple of moments where I thought I wouldn’t be able to make it in time, but that all proved to be wrong in the end. What else do you need: - 2mm thick sheet of acrylic (Plexiglass): 1mm ball version (some sanding may be required to make it fit): 4x 51,5mm x 51,5mm 2x 60mm x 60mm - 1mm ball; - Some glue that sticks on 3D-printed parts. Templates 1mm ball version 

Need to pass cables or even filament through a hole but need to dress up that hole so it looks good or to prevent snagging? Use this handy hole grommet on your panel or enclosure! Simply print (at high resolution - you will be printing threads), and screw together to cover a hole.

Parametric Panel Hole Grommet

Need to pass cables or even filament through a hole but need to dress up that hole so it looks good or to prevent snagging? Use this handy hole grommet on your panel or enclosure! Simply print (at high resolution - you will be printing threads), and screw together to cover a hole.


A set of supports to make an acrylic write board illuminated with LEDs, great gift Idea. low electric skills needed.More info at <a href="http://www.tinkererpt.com/acrylic-write-board-with-red-leds-1487&#xA0;or" rel="external">http://www.tinkererpt.com/acrylic-write-board-with-red-leds-1487&#xA0;or</a><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Acrylic-write-board-with-red-LEDs/" rel="external">http://www.instructables.com/id/Acrylic-write-board-with-red-LEDs/</a>

Acrylic write board supports

A set of supports to make an acrylic write board illuminated with LEDs, great gift Idea. low electric skills needed.More info at http://www.tinkererpt.com/acrylic-write-board-with-red-leds-1487 orhttp://www.instructables.com/id/Acrylic-write-board-with-red-LEDs/


The top cover is from JUSS10 
<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/juss10/designs" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/juss10/designs</a> 
<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/acrylic-cover-for-ultimaker-2" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/acrylic-cover-for-ultimaker-2</a>

The parts fit together pretty tight and I heard and saw some cracking of the acrylic as I tightened down the screw.

If I had to do it again, I would taper the tabs a bit and use longer screws to put more material between the nuts and the screw. (see modified DWG file)

The door is from Ross Clasen 
<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/rossclasen/designs" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/rossclasen/designs</a> 
<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-friction-mounted-removable-door-hinge-and-latch-set" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-friction-mounted-removable-door-hinge-and-latch-set</a>

I did not use the hinge, just the door panel.

If I was going to do it again, I would put a radius on the corners. (see modified DWG file)

The bottom clips for the door are from Mtanu. 
<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/mtanu/designs" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/mtanu/designs</a> 
<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-cover" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-cover</a>

I modeled the side clips for the door.

The door slides up to remove it.

You might want to add some kind of handle to the door to make it easier to lift up. You could also try making the door a bit taller and then putting a bend at the top.

Warning: this ending up costing me about $80 in acrylic. I used the local Fab-Lab to laser cut the parts.

Ultimaker 2 Extended Enclosure

The top cover is from JUSS10
https://www.youmagine.com/juss10/designs
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/acrylic-cover-for-ultimaker-2

The parts fit together pretty tight and I heard and saw some cracking of the acrylic as I tightened down the screw.

If I had to do it again, I would taper the tabs a bit and use longer screws to put more material between the nuts and the screw.  (see modified DWG file)

The door is from Ross Clasen
https://www.youmagine.com/rossclasen/designs
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-friction-mounted-removable-door-hinge-and-latch-set

I did not use the hinge, just the door panel.

If I was going to do it again, I would put a radius on the corners. (see modified DWG file)

The bottom clips for the door are from Mtanu.
https://www.youmagine.com/mtanu/designs
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-cover

I modeled the side clips for the door.

The door slides up to remove it.

You might want to add some kind of handle to the door to make it easier to lift up. You could also try making the door a bit taller and then putting a bend at the top.

Warning: this ending up costing me about $80 in acrylic. I used the local Fab-Lab to laser cut the parts.


DIY 3D Printer - PANDORA DXs (Design eXtreme single) 
 
3D Design Tool: SketchUp Pro 
 <iframe width="593" height="370" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/cU4g0uPv2qE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> &#xA0; 
 
Technical Specifications 
 
Printing 
Technology: FFF(Fused Filament Fabrication) / H-Bot(CoreXY) 
Build Volume: 223 (W) x 225 (D) x 165 (H) mm, &#xA0;Heatbed, Auto Bed Leveling 
Layer Resolution: 50-200 microns 
Filament: ABS or PLA, Nyron, HIPS, PVA... 1.75 mm diameter 
Nozzle Diameter: 0.4 mm (0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.8mm) 
Print File Type: .Gcode, .STL 
Layer Resolutions: 
Fast: 200 micron (0.2 mm) 
Normal: 100 micron (0.1 mm) 
hHigh: 0.06 micron (0.06 mm) 
Ultra High: 0,04 micron (0.04 mm) 
 
Size and Weight 
 
Product Dimensions: 426 (W) x 433 (D) x 500 (H) mm Product Weight: 11 kg 
 
Software 
 
Software Bundle: Cura, Slic3r, KISSlicer / Octoprint, Printrun, Repetier-Host, MatterControl 
Supported File Types: .STL, .OBJ, .AMF, .Gcode 
Operating Systems: All (Web-based): Windows, Mac OS, Linux 
 
Firmware 
 
Arduino: Modified Marlin v1.0.0 
Raspberry Pi: Rasbian, Octoprint, SSH, Samba, VNC, WiringPi 
 
Hardware 
 
Base Plate: Profile DRF 2020, Acrylic 
Step Motor: NEMA 17 - Phase: 4, Step Angle: 1.8 Deg/Step, Holding Torque: 2.6Kg.cm 
X/Y/Z/E - 4EA 
Cartesian (xyz): X/Y Head: LM Guide, Z Bed: 10mm Linear Shaft and 8D Screw Rod 
 
Electrical 
 
Control Board: Arduino Mega 2560 
Control Shield: Ramps 1.4 Board 
Display Board: Reprap Discount Smart Controller LCD 2004 Raspberry Pi: Raspberry Pi B 
Camera: Raspberry Camera 
Power Requirements: AC 100 - 240 V, 1.4 Amps, 50-60 Hz, 220 W 
Connectivity: USB, SD Card, Wi-Fi (Web-based) 
Temperature: 
Nozzle temperature: 170 - 270 
Heated bed temperature: 50 - 100 
Operational temperature: 10 - 40 
Storage temperature: 0 - 32 
 
Thanks for watching!........Coming soon!........Updating......

Zalophus&apos;s DesignHouse: <a href="http://zalophus.tistory.com" rel="external">http://zalophus.tistory.com</a> and <a href="https://zddh.blogspot.com" rel="external">https://zddh.blogspot.com</a>

DIY 3D Printer PANDORA DXs - 3D Design

DIY 3D Printer - PANDORA DXs (Design eXtreme single)

3D Design Tool: SketchUp Pro
  

Technical Specifications

Printing
Technology: FFF(Fused Filament Fabrication) / H-Bot(CoreXY)
Build Volume: 223 (W) x 225 (D) x 165 (H) mm,  Heatbed, Auto Bed Leveling 
Layer Resolution: 50-200 microns
Filament: ABS or PLA, Nyron, HIPS, PVA... 1.75 mm diameter
Nozzle Diameter: 0.4 mm (0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.8mm)
Print File Type: .Gcode, .STL
Layer Resolutions:
Fast: 200 micron (0.2 mm)
Normal: 100 micron (0.1 mm)
hHigh: 0.06 micron (0.06 mm)
Ultra High: 0,04 micron (0.04 mm)

Size and Weight

Product Dimensions: 426 (W) x 433 (D) x 500 (H) mmProduct Weight: 11 kg

Software

Software Bundle: Cura, Slic3r, KISSlicer / Octoprint, Printrun, Repetier-Host, MatterControl 
Supported File Types: .STL, .OBJ, .AMF, .Gcode
Operating Systems: All (Web-based): Windows, Mac OS, Linux

Firmware

Arduino: Modified Marlin v1.0.0 
Raspberry Pi: Rasbian, Octoprint, SSH, Samba, VNC, WiringPi

Hardware

Base Plate: Profile DRF 2020, Acrylic
Step Motor: NEMA 17 - Phase: 4, Step Angle: 1.8 Deg/Step, Holding Torque: 2.6Kg.cm
X/Y/Z/E - 4EA
Cartesian (xyz): X/Y Head: LM Guide, Z Bed: 10mm Linear Shaft and 8D Screw Rod

Electrical

Control Board: Arduino Mega 2560
Control Shield: Ramps 1.4 Board
Display Board: Reprap Discount Smart Controller LCD 2004Raspberry Pi: Raspberry Pi B
Camera: Raspberry Camera
Power Requirements: AC 100 - 240 V, 1.4 Amps, 50-60 Hz, 220 W
Connectivity: USB, SD Card, Wi-Fi (Web-based)
Temperature:
Nozzle temperature: 170 - 270
Heated bed temperature: 50 - 100
Operational temperature: 10 - 40
Storage temperature: 0 - 32

Thanks for watching!........Coming soon!........Updating......

Zalophus's DesignHouse: http://zalophus.tistory.com and https://zddh.blogspot.com


Based on Arduino Hardcase by risknc -&#xA0;thingiverse.com/thing:13466 This version has no recessed screws/nuts, requires less acrylic, and doesn&apos;t require any gluing. It has a hole at the top rear for attaching a lanyard or other mounting mechanism. With the HeatSync Labs logo on the front, this tactical Arduino holster will keep your uC safe in the harshest of Defcons! Import the files and adjust the logo/text if desired.Make sure your laser will engrave the logo/text, then cut screw holes, and then cut the outlines, to avoid mistakes.Plan out how many you want, and duplicate/arrange the pieces for minimal waste.If you&apos;re not using Arduino Unos, measure the outer dimensions, thickness, port placement, and mounting holes to make sure it&apos;ll fit nicely. Cut the top 3 items from 1/8&quot; (3mm) acrylic and the bottom 2 items from 1/4&quot; (6mm) acrylic. NOTE: some Arduinos are slightly more than 15mm tall when you include the leads on the bottom of the board. You might need to file down the power/usb leads to make the board fit. Optionally you can cut all 3 U-shape side pieces from 6mm acrylic, however it will not be as snug and the headers will be less accessible. Assemble the top (logo) plate, side pieces, and back plate as desired. Secure with 1&quot; (25.4mm) long machine screws and nuts, ideally M4 or 6-32. Attach lanyard. Enjoy! There are holes for mounting the Arduino to the backplate, however I don&apos;t use them as you&apos;d need short screws to fit inside.

Arduino Hardcase - Tactical Badge Edition

Based on Arduino Hardcase by risknc - thingiverse.com/thing:13466This version has no recessed screws/nuts, requires less acrylic, and doesn't require any gluing. It has a hole at the top rear for attaching a lanyard or other mounting mechanism.With the HeatSync Labs logo on the front, this tactical Arduino holster will keep your uC safe in the harshest of Defcons!Import the files and adjust the logo/text if desired.Make sure your laser will engrave the logo/text, then cut screw holes, and then cut the outlines, to avoid mistakes.Plan out how many you want, and duplicate/arrange the pieces for minimal waste.If you're not using Arduino Unos, measure the outer dimensions, thickness, port placement, and mounting holes to make sure it'll fit nicely.Cut the top 3 items from 1/8" (3mm) acrylic and the bottom 2 items from 1/4" (6mm) acrylic. NOTE: some Arduinos are slightly more than 15mm tall when you include the leads on the bottom of the board. You might need to file down the power/usb leads to make the board fit. Optionally you can cut all 3 U-shape side pieces from 6mm acrylic, however it will not be as snug and the headers will be less accessible.Assemble the top (logo) plate, side pieces, and back plate as desired. Secure with 1" (25.4mm) long machine screws and nuts, ideally M4 or 6-32. Attach lanyard. Enjoy!There are holes for mounting the Arduino to the backplate, however I don't use them as you'd need short screws to fit inside.


Mounting bracket for 23b&apos;s Open Access Control System, board version 2.11 (see <a href="http://code.google.com/p/open-access-control/" rel="external">http://code.google.com/p/open-access-control/</a> ) Depending on the kerf of your laser, you may need to adjust the size of the board and wire holes. They&apos;re set at 0.1&quot; which was alright for #4-40 screws on my machine but could be a bit too loose on yours. Likewise, the wall holes are set to 0.3&quot; and 0.15&quot; for drywall screws, your mileage may vary. Any length screw can theoretically be used, you just need to make sure you account for the space taken up by the Arduino beneath the OAC board. I recommend 3/4&quot; for the board and 1/4&quot; for the optional wire management holes. Eventually I&apos;d like to see this be a complete laser cut enclosure.

Open Access Control Mounting Bracket

Mounting bracket for 23b's Open Access Control System, board version 2.11 (see http://code.google.com/p/open-access-control/ )Depending on the kerf of your laser, you may need to adjust the size of the board and wire holes. They're set at 0.1" which was alright for #4-40 screws on my machine but could be a bit too loose on yours. Likewise, the wall holes are set to 0.3" and 0.15" for drywall screws, your mileage may vary.Any length screw can theoretically be used, you just need to make sure you account for the space taken up by the Arduino beneath the OAC board. I recommend 3/4" for the board and 1/4" for the optional wire management holes.Eventually I'd like to see this be a complete laser cut enclosure.


Print twice (one normal, one mirrored). DSM file include EDIT: check this one instead. Prints faster, and looks way cleaner<a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-plexi-hook" rel="external">https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-plexi-hook</a> &#xFEFF;

UM2 - Plexi holder

Print twice (one normal, one mirrored).DSM file includeEDIT: check this one instead. Prints faster, and looks way cleanerhttps://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-plexi-hook﻿


print 2 pieces (one mirrored if you want to) Assembly:- place the hooks on top of the plexiglass- mark the holes- remove the hooks and drill the holes (do it slowly or it may crack)- cut the tip of the filament flat, chamfer a little bit (1mm)- push the filament in the hole as much as you can, cut the filament (small cut then break it)- with the drill and drill bit push the filament a little further in.- clean- enjoy

UM2 - Plexi Hook

print 2 pieces (one mirrored if you want to)Assembly:- place the hooks on top of the plexiglass- mark the holes- remove the hooks and drill the holes (do it slowly or it may crack)- cut the tip of the filament flat, chamfer a little bit (1mm)- push the filament in the hole as much as you can, cut the filament (small cut then break it)- with the drill and drill bit push the filament a little further in.- clean- enjoy


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