Bad internet? Linux user? Just not happy with Fusion 360's interface? Dig into this guide to discover the top 10 Fusion 360 alternatives.

Top 10 Fusion 360 Alternatives | All3DP

Fusion 360 is a versatile software for CAD, CAM, and CNC. Read on to learn about the best add-ins to optimize Fusion 360 for woodworking.

Fusion 360 & Woodworking: How to Get Started | All3DP

Intimidated by the learning curve of Fusion 360? Never fear! This Fusion 360 tutorial for 3D printing will take you through the very basics, step by step.

Fusion 360 Tutorial for 3D Printing – 4 Easy Steps | All3DP

Fusion 360 is one of the most popular CAD tools available for hobbyists due to its capabilities. Explore this guide explaining what Fusion 360 is in this guide.

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Looking to do some CNC milling? Chances are you need CAM. Luckily, there's Fusion 360 CAM. Follow along as we show you how to get started!

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Fusion 360 is a powerful tool packed with many features, but it's not made for Linux... Never fear! Read this guide to put Fusion 360 on your Linux machine!

Fusion 360 on Linux: How to Install It | All3DP

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Fusion 360 or Blender? Read this simple guide to discover the similarities and the differences between these two 3D CAD programs.

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For a highly limited time only, Autodesk's popular 3D modeling application Fusion 360 sees a huge 67% discount.

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<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Bring Your Own Balls Parametric Bearing.  I used 6mm soft air ammo for the bearings in the stl files but I have include the parametric Fusion 360 file so you can use whatever balls you have.</p>
<p>There are two versions of a 10mm I.D, 30mm O.D, 10mm thick bearing. The more spin version has more play between the balls and the races and spins for about three seconds when spun by hand.  The less play version only spins for about a second but the inner race doesn&apos;t move around as much.</p>
<p>Both are made of three parts, an outer race, and a two part inner race that press fits together.  The inner race parts could be glued together if needed but I haven&apos;t found it necessary.</p>
<p>EDIT: After dropping one and it popping apart I would recommend carefully gluing the inner race together.  Try not to glue your balls together!</p>
<p>To assemble put the bottom inner race on a flat surface with the outer race around it.  Lift up the outer race a bit to provide clearance for the balls.  Once the balls are in position lower the outer race and put the inner race top on top of the bottom and push together.  The included bearings take ten balls each.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Original Prusa i3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.10</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Generic+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Generic PLA                    </a>

                    Orange
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Printed with default 0.10 DETAIL profile in PrusaSlicer.</p></div>
</body></html>

BYOB Parametric Bearing

Bring Your Own Balls Parametric Bearing.  I used 6mm soft air ammo for the bearings in the stl files but I have include the parametric Fusion 360 file so you can use whatever balls you have.

There are two versions of a 10mm I.D, 30mm O.D, 10mm thick bearing. The more spin version has more play between the balls and the races and spins for about three seconds when spun by hand.  The less play version only spins for about a second but the inner race doesn't move around as much.

Both are made of three parts, an outer race, and a two part inner race that press fits together.  The inner race parts could be glued together if needed but I haven't found it necessary.

EDIT: After dropping one and it popping apart I would recommend carefully gluing the inner race together.  Try not to glue your balls together!

To assemble put the bottom inner race on a flat surface with the outer race around it.  Lift up the outer race a bit to provide clearance for the balls.  Once the balls are in position lower the outer race and put the inner race top on top of the bottom and push together.  The included bearings take ten balls each.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>RemindAirMini is a housing for the sensors BME280 and MQ-135 to measure the air quality. </p>
<p>You will find informations about the electronics, wiring and firmware under the following link from my friend Luis:</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="https://github.com/loublock/Air-Quality-Monitor">https://github.com/loublock/Air-Quality-Monitor</a></p>
<p>See Notes section for well working printing parameters!</p>
<p>Have fun!</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=amazon+basics+PLA+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        amazon basics PLA PLA                    </a>

                    Black / Red / Clear
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Printing Parameters for Housing Parts:</p>
<p>Layer Height: 0.2 mm</p>
<p>Wall Thikness: 0.8 mm<br>
Horizontal Expansion: -0.05 mm<br>
Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion: -0.1 mm<br>
Z Seam Position: Back</p>
<p>Infill Density: 20 %<br>
Infill Pattern: Cubic</p>
<p>Print Speed: 50 mm/s</p>
<p>Support Placement: Everywhere<br>
Support Overhang Angle: 65&#xB0;<br>
Support Density: 20 %<br>
Support Interface Density: 50 %</p>
<p>Different Printing Parameters for Glass Part:</p>
<p>Layer Height: 0.16 mm</p>
<p>Wall Thikness: 0.4 mm<br>
Top Layers: 3<br>
Bottom Layers: 2<br>
Initial Bottom Layers: 3</p>
<p>Infill: 0 %</p>
<p>Material:</p>
<p>Use your favourite PLA or other Material, make sure your Printer is well calibrated otherwise the parts will not fit together.<br>
For PLA and the mentioned printing parameters you will need the following amount of material:</p>
<p>red parts:<br>
weight: 39 g<br>
printing time: 5 h 21 min</p>
<p>black parts:<br>
weight: 55 g<br>
printing time: 11 h 4 min</p>
<p>transparent parts:<br>
weight: 7 g<br>
printing time: 1 h 30 min</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/vfHGNQmXTCo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
</body></html>

RemindAirMini - Housing

RemindAirMini is a housing for the sensors BME280 and MQ-135 to measure the air quality. 

You will find informations about the electronics, wiring and firmware under the following link from my friend Luis:

https://github.com/loublock/Air-Quality-Monitor

See Notes section for well working printing parameters!

Have fun!

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a controller holder for xbox one (series x) and nintendo switch controller. </p>
<p>You need:</p>
<p>2 screws or nails with max &#xD8; 4mm</p>
<p>... a wall ...</p>
<p>other Thing:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4640139">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4640139</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Giantarm+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Giantarm PLA                    </a>

                    Yellow
</body></html>

wall-mounted controller holder

This is a controller holder for xbox one (series x) and nintendo switch controller. 

You need:

2 screws or nails with max Ø 4mm

... a wall ...

other Thing: 
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4640139

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is an headphone and cable holder that you can hang on the wall.</p>
<p>You need:</p>
<p>2 nails or screws with max &#xD8; 3mm</p>
<p>... a wall ... </p>
<p>Other Things:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4640207">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4640207</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.20</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Giantarm+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Giantarm PLA                    </a>

                    yellow
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

wall-mounted headphone and cable holder

This is an headphone and cable holder that you can hang on the wall.

You need:

2 nails or screws with max Ø 3mm

... a wall ... 

Other Things:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4640207

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Just a simpler remix of the stick created by Akaki, I think it is a bit easier to print and less material expensive. The downside of this design is that you can only use the springiness of the stick itself to feel the center SO MAKE IT THE LIGHTER YOU CAN GO.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2rqZ6Uo?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">Prusa Clone</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0-10%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Geeetech+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Geeetech PLA                    </a>

                    Grey - Blue
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Printed everything with<br>
0.4 mm nozzle<br>
0.45 mm line width<br>
0.2 mm layer heigth<br>
3 perimeters<br>
10% grid infill for thumbstick grip and 0% for the rest</p>
<p>The lighter you print and the better is to use because it centers the stick more easily, so I would try also 2 perimeters at least for the upper grip.<br>
I designed the connector of the length I wanted but if you want you can adjust it in Meshmixer or in Fusion360 (also some slicing software as Ideamaker let you cut your object the size you want).<br>
If you make the connector 2/3 cm shorter it would probably center better on the stick but you would have less angle to play with.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<div><p>Everything should fit but the hole size as ever is a coin flip. </p>
<p>I designed it 4 mm hole diameter and 3.8 the cylinder it goes in from the connector. </p>
<p>If does not fit, just take a 3.5/4 mm drillbit and make it larger (not too much should fit tight).</p>
<p>If you want to protect more the stick, just sand paper a bit the thumbstick grip or put some<br>
black tape around the stick before inserting the adapter.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<div><p>Just took the thumbstick grip made a cylinder with a hole and designed the simple connector between lower grip and upper grip (which instead is the original).</p></div>
</body></html>

Joystick HOTAS for Xbox 360 Controller

Just a simpler remix of the stick created by Akaki, I think it is a bit easier to print and less material expensive. The downside of this design is that you can only use the springiness of the stick itself to feel the center SO MAKE IT THE LIGHTER YOU CAN GO.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Support tablette</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.16</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=pla+or+Petg+Petg&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        pla or Petg Petg                    </a>

                    red and wood
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used Polyflex TPU, with tree supports with the camera mount printed on its side.<br>
Print Speed of 20mm/s. </p></div>
</body></html>

Support Tablette

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Simple Kinect Xbox 360 TV Mount for older high-end Sony Bravia KDL-55HX850. Enjoy and stay fit! :)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.28</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>15%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Plast-Spaw+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Plast-Spaw PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Kinect Xbox 360 TV Mount for Sony Bravia KDL-55HX850

Simple Kinect Xbox 360 TV Mount for older high-end Sony Bravia KDL-55HX850. Enjoy and stay fit! :)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>The Y-Axis Hotend Cable Support is similar to: <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4629549">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4629549</a></p>
<p>A difference is it runs the length of the Y-Axis; the build consists of two (2) top shelves and four (4) mounting brackets assembled using No. 4 or M3 thread forming or cutting screws.  </p>
<p>The other difference is no top retaining bracket to hold the cable captive. Cable weight does a good job holding the cable within the boundaries on the self ends.  Each shelf also have stops on the ends to prevent cables from jumping off the ends when printing.</p>
<p>Hotend carriage strain-relief; <a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:4629839">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4629839</a> has the same height so the cable does not bind when running along the cable support shelf mounted on the Y-axis.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>SainSmart Coreception-300</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2-0.25</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>35-50%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Any%3B+Printed+with+Sunlu+PLA%2B+ABS%2C+PLA%2B+or+PETG&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Any; Printed with Sunlu PLA+ ABS, PLA+ or PETG                    </a>

                    Any; Printed White
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>I used 25 BRIM outlines on all pieces.</p></div>
</body></html>

Y-Axis Hotend Cable Support Coreception, Elf and SahpphirePro

The Y-Axis Hotend Cable Support is similar to: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4629549

A difference is it runs the length of the Y-Axis; the build consists of two (2) top shelves and four (4) mounting brackets assembled using No. 4 or M3 thread forming or cutting screws.  

The other difference is no top retaining bracket to hold the cable captive. Cable weight does a good job holding the cable within the boundaries on the self ends.  Each shelf also have stops on the ends to prevent cables from jumping off the ends when printing.

Hotend carriage strain-relief; https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4629839 has the same height so the cable does not bind when running along the cable support shelf mounted on the Y-axis.



<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>On this page you can download a Fusion 360 project used in the linked Youtube tutorials. Use this as base for creating your own track parts, from straight track, curves and bridges. It contains the complicated parts like joiners and sleepers to get you started quickly.</p>
<p>If you create some track parts that work well and that you think would be of use for others, please share them and post them as remixes of this document! Thanks! :) </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Prusa</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>I3 MK3S</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>20%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=any+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        any PLA                    </a>

                    any
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Usually you don&apos;t need support for tracks as the printer can bridge the gap between the sleepers. </p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header custom custom-section">Custom Section</h3>
<p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/ESRw9cBh99g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
                <p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/YtC1u9HSdUM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
                <p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/BbAR1oBe95g" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
                <p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/_f_Ku0T1RXo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
                <p class="detail-video"><iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/BOyQumGlcQY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></p>
</body></html>

Track tutorial for OS-Railway - fully 3D-printable railway system!

On this page you can download a Fusion 360 project used in the linked Youtube tutorials. Use this as base for creating your own track parts, from straight track, curves and bridges. It contains the complicated parts like joiners and sleepers to get you started quickly.

If you create some track parts that work well and that you think would be of use for others, please share them and post them as remixes of this document! Thanks! :) 

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>(the 2nd version is thinner)</p>
<p>Hi,</p>
<p>I don&apos;t know if anyone is still using this watch but here is a solution for the well-known strap issue...</p>
<p>Works with a 20 mm strap, the 2nd version is thinner, more round, maybe less stronger ? Anyway I am using it for many months now.</p>
<p>Inspired by abeldaharnhem and basecore work.<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2641237">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2641237</a><br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:2858248">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2858248</a></p>
<p>Print settings :</p>
<p>I printed mine with an Alphawise U30 Pro and Cura (profiles : 0.15, infill 40% (don&apos;t matter), support). ABS is nice too<br>
Choose a flat surface.</p>
<p>NB<br>
Battery replacement is risky but it works like a charm for me :<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Motorola+Moto+360+2nd+Gen+Battery+Replacement/98868">https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Motorola+Moto+360+2nd+Gen+Battery+Replacement/98868</a></p>
<p>One other workaround could be using pattex (or other brand oc) modeling clay.</p>
<p>Hope you&apos;ll find a solutions, this watch is great and up to date, have a nice day.</p>
<p>Julien</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>
</body></html>

Moto 360 Sport rounded case V2

(the 2nd version is thinner)

Hi,

I don't know if anyone is still using this watch but here is a solution for the well-known strap issue...

Works with a 20 mm strap, the 2nd version is thinner, more round, maybe less stronger ? Anyway I am using it for many months now.


Inspired by abeldaharnhem and basecore work.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2641237
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2858248

Print settings :

I printed mine with an Alphawise U30 Pro and Cura (profiles : 0.15, infill 40% (don't matter), support). ABS is nice too
Choose a flat surface.

NB 
Battery replacement is risky but it works like a charm for me :
https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Motorola+Moto+360+2nd+Gen+Battery+Replacement/98868

One other workaround could be using pattex (or other brand oc) modeling clay.

Hope you'll find a solutions, this watch is great and up to date, have a nice day.

Julien

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>I needed to cut threads into PLA holes, however the usual thread holders are far too large in tiny positions. So, I created a little holder which can be used with 3 fingers to tap threads into holes. </p>
<p>Use an M4 screw to lock the tap, if you are really needed to. They fit quite snug. </p>
<p>No supports or special parameters required. It may be helpful to use a good number of walls / perimeters to have a strong body. </p>
<p>If you need different sizes, be free and download my fusion 365 archive. </p>
<p>The square hole in the middle requires following sizes:<br>
M3 - 2.65 mm (use 3.05 mm to compensate printed walls)<br>
M4 - 3,30 mm (use 3,70 mm to compensate printed walls)<br>
M5, M6, M8 - 4.85 mm (use 5.25 mm to compensate printed walls)<br>
M10 - 5.50 mm (use 5.90 mm to compensate printed walls)<br>
M12 - 6.80 mm (use 7.20 mm to compensate printed walls) </p>
<p>Have fun :)</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Creality</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ender 3 Pro</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.28</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=OWL+Filament+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        OWL Filament PLA                    </a>

                    Silver
</body></html>

slimline tap holder - Gewindeschneidhalter - make threads in narrow spaces M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 M10 M12 

I needed to cut threads into PLA holes, however the usual thread holders are far too large in tiny positions. So, I created a little holder which can be used with 3 fingers to tap threads into holes. 

Use an M4 screw to lock the tap, if you are really needed to. They fit quite snug. 

No supports or special parameters required. It may be helpful to use a good number of walls / perimeters to have a strong body. 

If you need different sizes, be free and download my fusion 365 archive. 

The square hole in the middle requires following sizes: 
M3 - 2.65 mm (use 3.05 mm to compensate printed walls) 
M4 - 3,30 mm (use 3,70 mm to compensate printed walls)
M5, M6, M8 - 4.85 mm (use 5.25 mm to compensate printed walls)
M10 - 5.50 mm (use 5.90 mm to compensate printed walls)
M12 - 6.80 mm (use 7.20 mm to compensate printed walls) 

Have fun :)

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>UAV made by EPrc</p>
<p>the EXPLORER MK1 SOON OUT ON EBAY </p>
<p>made out of laser cutted wood and carbon fiber tubes, with his 1800mm of wingspan the EXPLORER MK1 can takeoff with a mtow(max takeoff weight) of 4.5kg enough to carry a 4s 20000mah liIon battery and cruising for over 3 hours.<br>
build with long range capabilities has high efficiency thanks to v-tail and high wing.</p>
<p>mtow:                         4.5kg<br>
dry weight:                 0.7kg<br>
wing-span:                 1800mm<br>
wing-surface:             45dm^2<br>
max-wing-load:          0.7kg/dm^2     max acceleration of 7G<br>
stall speed:                30km/h<br>
max speed(reached): 130km/h leveled flight </p>
<p>reccomanded a r9m or tbs crossfire with a pixhawk or matek board<br>
5.8ghz vtx with 800/3000w (suggest to see your country rules for max power output)<br>
SOON OUT ON EBAY, KIT OR PRE ASSEMBLED VERSION<br>
vtol configuration too</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>laser cutter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=0+real+wood+lol&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        0 real wood lol                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

uav EXPLORER mk1

UAV made by EPrc

the EXPLORER MK1 SOON OUT ON EBAY 

made out of laser cutted wood and carbon fiber tubes, with his 1800mm of wingspan the EXPLORER MK1 can takeoff with a mtow(max takeoff weight) of 4.5kg enough to carry a 4s 20000mah liIon battery and cruising for over 3 hours. 
build with long range capabilities has high efficiency thanks to v-tail and high wing.

mtow:                         4.5kg
dry weight:                 0.7kg
wing-span:                 1800mm
wing-surface:             45dm^2
max-wing-load:          0.7kg/dm^2     max acceleration of 7G
stall speed:                30km/h
max speed(reached): 130km/h leveled flight 


reccomanded a r9m or tbs crossfire with a pixhawk or matek board
5.8ghz vtx with 800/3000w (suggest to see your country rules for max power output)
SOON OUT ON EBAY, KIT OR PRE ASSEMBLED VERSION
vtol configuration too



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