The 3D printing revolution has come for your bike. Discover the best 3D printed bike parts and accessories to enhance your riding experience!

16 Best 3D Printed Bike Parts & Accessories | All3DP

In her spare time, enterprising 16-year-old Kavya Kopparupu has made a cheap and effective 3D printed system to diagnose diabetic retinopathy.

US Teen Invents "Eyeagnosis" System to Diagnose Diabetic Retinopathy | All3DP

16-year-old Pedro Lopez Rodriguez, who suffered from a stroke in 2012, uses a 3D printed swimming fin to help improve his form.

Teen uses 3D Printed Swimming Fin for Stroke Rehabilitation | All3DP

Nintendo’s NES has been discontinued. But you can build your own NES with a Raspberry Pi and a 3D printed Raspberry Pi NES case.

16 Coolest Raspberry Pi NES Cases to DIY or Buy | All3DP

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This is a pluggable case for the HYDRA LAN board for the ATARI ST/STE/FALCON. With a clean printout everything fits together without any rework. If you like, you can also connect the case with a drop of glue.</p>
<p>For me I have highlighted the lettering later with some color.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>HE3D K280</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.25</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>12%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Polymaker+Polyflex+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Polymaker Polyflex PLA                    </a>

                    Black
</body></html>

Hydra LAN Card Case for Atari ST/STE/FALCON

This is a pluggable case for the HYDRA LAN board for the ATARI ST/STE/FALCON. With a clean printout everything fits together without any rework. If you like, you can also connect the case with a drop of glue.

For me I have highlighted the lettering later with some color.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>160x160x160 mm Simple Test Cube</p></div>
</body></html>

160x160x160 mm Simple Test Cube

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>A sword inspired by the one carried by the young version of the main character in the Final Fantasy XVI reveal trailer! I&apos;ll add a name later once they reveal it.</p>
<p>Overall, this should be a fairly straight forward print. For assembly, there&apos;s two sword halves (Sword1 and Sword2) that need to be put together independently before being stuck together. The pieces are designed such that, with the correct support rods you don&apos;t need to worry too much about alignment. I&apos;ve built in a clearance of about 0.2mm for the pieces, and 0.5mm for the rod inserts (0.25mm on each side of the tube hole).</p>
<p>For the support rods I bought from DragonPlate the following:</p>
<ul><li>3x 6mm OD by 24inch pultruded rods (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://dragonplate.com/DragonPlate-Carbon-Tube-6mm-OD-x-150ID-x-24">https://dragonplate.com/DragonPlate-Carbon-Tube-6mm-OD-x-150ID-x-24</a>)<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://dragonplate.com/DragonPlate-Carbon-Tube-6mm-OD-x-150ID-x-24">https://dragonplate.com/DragonPlate-Carbon-Tube-6mm-OD-x-150ID-x-24</a>)</li>
<li>1x 10mm OD by 24 inch pultruded rod (<a rel="nofollow" href="https://dragonplate.com/DragonPlate-Carbon-Tube-10mm-OD-x-288ID-x-24">https://dragonplate.com/DragonPlate-Carbon-Tube-10mm-OD-x-288ID-x-24</a>)</li>
</ul><p>The 10mm rod was cut into a 7 inch section, and two of the 6mm rods were cut down to 18 inches in length. The final rod doesn&apos;t need any modification (it&apos;s the single one that runs down to the point of the sword). Once you can assemble the rods, use epoxy or some other adhesive to put the pieces together.</p>
<p>For finishing, use your favorite filler for the gaps, then your favorite solution for taking care of layer lines.</p>
<p>It is expected that you wrap the handle in fabric or leather like the in game version.</p>
<p>The emblems are separate pieces so that they can be painted and attached later. I recommend getting a friend to print them with an SLA printer but they should be fine with an FDM printer.</p>
<p>It was scaled for a 6 foot tall person, but should be fine for most people.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Ultimaker</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://amzn.to/2BfKabj?tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">Ultimaker 3</a></p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>25%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=ColorFabb+LW-PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        ColorFabb LW-PLA                    </a>

                    Natural
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><ul><li>I printed with LW-PLA to achieve roughly half the weight compared to regular PLA. I highly recommend LW-PLA for cosplay, but to get it to work on your printer will require lots of trial and error. For Ultimaker, I&apos;ve published my settings here: <a rel="nofollow" href="https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/29841-colorfabb-lw-pla/?do=findComment&amp;comment=260210">https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/29841-colorfabb-lw-pla/?do=findComment&amp;comment=260210</a></li>
<li>I mostly printed straight up and down, with the &quot;rounded ends&quot; pointing down and using a brim. If you can&apos;t use a brim, use a raft.</li>
<li>The exception to the above was the hilt, which was printed with tree supports at a slight angle</li>
<li>Do not print such that supports will end up in the tube holes. Removing supported from those holes so that the carbon fiber tube scan get in is a royal pain.</li>
</ul><p>This should be a fairly straight forward print in most materials and on most printers.</p></div>
</body></html>

Final Fantasy XVI Young Clive Inspired Sword

<p>A sword inspired by the one carried by the young version of the main character in the Final Fantasy XVI reveal trailer! I'll add a name later once they reveal it.</p>

Overall, this should be a fairly straight forward print. For assembly, there's two sword halves (Sword1 and Sword2) that need to be put together independently before being stuck together. The pieces are designed such that, with the correct support rods you don't need to worry too much about alignment. I've built in a clearance of about 0.2mm for the pieces, and 0.5mm for the rod inserts (0.25mm on each side of the tube hole).

For the support rods I bought from DragonPlate the following:
* 3x 6mm OD by 24inch pultruded rods (https://dragonplate.com/DragonPlate-Carbon-Tube-6mm-OD-x-150ID-x-24)
https://dragonplate.com/DragonPlate-Carbon-Tube-6mm-OD-x-150ID-x-24)
* 1x 10mm OD by 24 inch pultruded rod (https://dragonplate.com/DragonPlate-Carbon-Tube-10mm-OD-x-288ID-x-24)

The 10mm rod was cut into a 7 inch section, and two of the 6mm rods were cut down to 18 inches in length. The final rod doesn't need any modification (it's the single one that runs down to the point of the sword). Once you can assemble the rods, use epoxy or some other adhesive to put the pieces together.

For finishing, use your favorite filler for the gaps, then your favorite solution for taking care of layer lines.

It is expected that you wrap the handle in fabric or leather like the in game version.

The emblems are separate pieces so that they can be painted and attached later. I recommend getting a friend to print them with an SLA printer but they should be fine with an FDM printer.

It was scaled for a 6 foot tall person, but should be fine for most people.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Modificaci&#xF3;n sobre el modelo de ZX Spectrum 16-48kb, para poder poner en su interior la placa clon de ZX Next, N-Go.</p>
<p>Enlace al modelo original:</p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:1240780">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1240780</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Artillery Genius</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Yes</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>45%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=BQ+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        BQ PLA                    </a>

                    Black
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Si utilizais los archivos Gcode el resultado de la impresi&#xF3;n es ya muy bueno, pero teneis los STL para que los modifiqueis a vuestro gusto.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header design how-i-designed-this">How I Designed This</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/24/76/81/f0/40/ZX_B.png"></p>
</body></html>

N-Go and ZX Next Case. ZX Spectrum 16-48Kb

Modificación sobre el modelo de ZX Spectrum 16-48kb, para poder poner en su interior la placa clon de ZX Next, N-Go.

Enlace al modelo original:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1240780

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Packard 160 Super 8 7 Passenger Sedan 1942</p></div>
</body></html>

Packard 160 Super 8 7 Passenger Sedan 1942

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Compatible pour module 16 relais Arduino</p></div>
</body></html>

16 relais Arduino coque boite

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Voici le simulateur d&apos;entrainement des tir militaire pour les futurs officiers de Starfleet,ou Forces de d&#xE9;fenses Klingonnes ou Flottille r&#xE9;publique Romulienne en Lego motoris&#xE9;e et au 1/6eme .</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>DAGOMA</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Discoeasy 200</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Doesn&apos;t Matter</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.15</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>33%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=3DFIL+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        3DFIL PLA                    </a>

                    Any
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/43/62/c0/f9/1f/IMG_6733.JPG"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/3e/41/28/61/e7/IMG_6675.JPG"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/f0/14/05/58/49/IMG_6684.JPG"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/12/aa/7c/93/be/IMG_6701.JPG"></p>
</body></html>

Simulateur de Terran task force OpenActionFigures

Voici le simulateur d'entrainement des tir militaire pour les futurs officiers de Starfleet,ou Forces de défenses Klingonnes ou Flottille république Romulienne en Lego motorisée et au 1/6eme .

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>This design is for use on the old Freewing F-35 (V2), which used a Freewing 2849-2850Kv brushless outrunner. </p>
<p>This is an experimental design and is UNTESTED. Due to the nature of outrunner motor design, it is much more difficult to create a functioning LED adapter for these than it is for an inrunner motor. If you decide to use this design, please be careful that it is installed cleanly and that the motor is not rubbing against the housing. Make sure all wires and leads are out of the way and cannot get snagged by the spinning of the motor.</p>
<p>I&apos;m looking for feedback and I would be interested to know if this design also works on other 70mm EDF units. If you print this and use it on other power systems, please let me know which ones work (and which don&apos;t). I&apos;d like to be able to help people know which jets this design will support.</p>
<p>If you like my designs, a tip would be appreciated. Tips can be sent to:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="http://paypal.me/sukotto88">http://paypal.me/sukotto88</a></p>
<p>If you want more info on how to make a DIY afterburner, please see this link:<br><a rel="nofollow" href="https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3570975-Afterburner-Step-by-Step-Instructions">https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3570975-Afterburner-Step-by-Step-Instructions</a></p></div>
</body></html>

LED Afterburner Adapter for Freewing 70mm Outrunner EDF

This design is for use on the old Freewing F-35 (V2), which used a Freewing 2849-2850Kv brushless outrunner. 

This is an experimental design and is UNTESTED. Due to the nature of outrunner motor design, it is much more difficult to create a functioning LED adapter for these than it is for an inrunner motor. If you decide to use this design, please be careful that it is installed cleanly and that the motor is not rubbing against the housing. Make sure all wires and leads are out of the way and cannot get snagged by the spinning of the motor.

I'm looking for feedback and I would be interested to know if this design also works on other 70mm EDF units. If you print this and use it on other power systems, please let me know which ones work (and which don't). I'd like to be able to help people know which jets this design will support.

If you like my designs, a tip would be appreciated. Tips can be sent to:
http://paypal.me/sukotto88

If you want more info on how to make a DIY afterburner, please see this link:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3570975-Afterburner-Step-by-Step-Instructions

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>Spare parts for the discontinued Metabo KGS E 1670 S-Signal chop and miter saw.</p>
<p>(1) base plate plastic gliders. One glider was all mangled up and inside the base plate I re-designed and re-printed all four gliders.</p>
<p>(2) Bed dust cover. Was missing  on my machine.</p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer brand"><strong>Printer Brand: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>Anet</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>A8</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.2</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>100%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Noname+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Noname PLA                    </a>

                    Blue
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/0a/32/65/59/ec/IMG_20201109_210915.jpg"></p>
                    <div><p>Gliders in the machine. Broken tabs remolded with epoxy.</p></div>
                <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/de/3a/ce/12/4f/IMG_20201114_205138.jpg"></p>
                    <p class="detail-image"><img src="https://cdn.thingiverse.com/assets/9e/cc/8e/f3/c7/IMG_20201114_205436.jpg"></p>
                    <div><p>Bed cover in place</p></div>
</body></html>

Metabo KGS E 1670 S-Signal chop and miter saw repair parts

Spare parts for the discontinued Metabo KGS E 1670 S-Signal chop and miter saw.

(1) base plate plastic gliders. One glider was all mangled up and inside the base plate I re-designed and re-printed all four gliders.

(2) Bed dust cover. Was missing  on my machine.

<html><head></head><body><h3 class="thing-component-header summary summary">Summary</h3>
<div><p>These brackets are the official ReliaBuild 3D printer brackets for using 16 tooth pulleys.  They will work with the RB3 and RBB3.  They will also work with the Rigidbot Standard and Big printers if they are using the upgraded bed carriage.  In general these will work on a 0.75&quot; or 19 mm square rail with rounded edges.</p>
<p>Assembly hardware needed for a pair of brackets:</p>
<ul><li>4 x MF115ZZ flanged bearings</li>
<li>4 x 9.5mm x 5mm x 3mm Nylon spacers</li>
<li>2 x GT2 5mm bore 14mm tall 16 tooth pulley for a 6mm belt (3 or 4 mm set screws)</li>
<li>2 x 5x25 mm 4mm socket head bolts and nuts<br>
Use the same M4x8 bolts (qty 8) used to mount the original brackets</li>
</ul><p>These are designed for using two MF115ZZ flanged bearings in each X and Y bracket set with a 5x11x4mm size and opposite of a GT2 5mm bore 14mm tall 16 tooth pulley for a 6mm belt.  Since the idler bearing with the belt wrapped around it has a larger diameter than the 16 tooth pulley with a belt around it the idler bearing is offset to one side.  This offset creates a straight linear track for pulling the bed carriage or the extruder carriage and eliminates sideways pull as the carriages approach the bearings.  Hence the brackets are marked with an X or a Y and a top and a bottom to make sure you get the offset in the right direction.</p>
<p>A 9.5mm x 5mm x 3mm spacer goes on either side of the bearing set between the brackets.  A printable version is included here.</p>
<p>Two 5x25 mm 4mm socket head bolts and nuts are needed for assembly of the two bracket sets.  The assembled brackets mount to the rails with M4x8 bolts.</p>
<p>The belt clips on the bed carriage and the extruder carriage need to be moved over towards the new belt location.  A drill guide to mark the holes is included.  The small pegs go in the original holes and the through holes mark the new location to align the belt clip.  </p>
<p>Note that the holes will come right to the edge of the extruder carriage and break through so you need to drill them very carefully.  I mark the position with a 1/8&quot; drill bit using the drill guide and first use a smaller bit to drill through the extruder carriage to help eliminate any wobble when drilling through with the final 1/8&quot; size.  </p>
<p>DXFs of a modified carriage for a Single and a Dual extruder are included for those that want to have one cut from 1/8&quot; thick flat aluminum plate.</p>
<p>Adjust the height of the pulleys such that the belt clip barely clears under the carriage.</p>
<p>If you have an RB2 or ReliaBuild 3D board in your machine change the number of steps in the firmware for the X and Y directions to 100.41372675<br>
If you are using an original Rigidbot board the Y value will be half of this.</p>
<p>There is a belt tightening key to help push the bearings in and tighten the belts.</p>
<p>Use thermally calibrated filament for best fit results.  I use this clip method.<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:1037301">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1037301</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header settings print-settings">Print Settings</h3>
<p class="detail-setting printer"><strong>Printer: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>RB3</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>No</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>0.1mm</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                                                <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong>
                         </p><div><p>24%</p></div>
<p></p>                                    
                    <strong>Filament:</strong> 
                    <a href="http://www.amazon.com/s?url=search-alias&amp;field-keywords=Vortex+3Dp+PLA&amp;tag=tv-auto-20" target="_blank">
                        Vortex 3Dp PLA                    </a>

                    Grey
                
                        <br>                        <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong>
                        </p><div><p>Use thermally calibrated filament for best fit results.  I use this clip method.<br><a rel="nofollow" href="/thing:1037301">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1037301</a></p></div>
<h3 class="thing-component-header tips post-printing">Post-Printing</h3>
<p class="detail-title"><strong>Part cleanup</strong></p>
                <div><p>The bracket slots for the bolt and nut have self supporting surfaces across the holes that will need to be cut out with a hobby knife.  The squish layer may need to be trimmed for the nut and bolt heat to fit in the slots.</p>
<p>Place the squish layer side of the spacers (if printing them) against the bracket.</p></div>
</body></html>

ReliaBuild 3D - 16 tooth Pulley Option

These brackets are the official ReliaBuild 3D printer brackets for using 16 tooth pulleys.  They will work with the RB3 and RBB3.  They will also work with the Rigidbot Standard and Big printers if they are using the upgraded bed carriage.  In general these will work on a 0.75" or 19 mm square rail with rounded edges.

Assembly hardware needed for a pair of brackets:
* 4 x MF115ZZ flanged bearings
* 4 x 9.5mm x 5mm x 3mm Nylon spacers
* 2 x GT2 5mm bore 14mm tall 16 tooth pulley for a 6mm belt (3 or 4 mm set screws)
* 2 x 5x25 mm 4mm socket head bolts and nuts
Use the same M4x8 bolts (qty 8) used to mount the original brackets

These are designed for using two MF115ZZ flanged bearings in each X and Y bracket set with a 5x11x4mm size and opposite of a GT2 5mm bore 14mm tall 16 tooth pulley for a 6mm belt.  Since the idler bearing with the belt wrapped around it has a larger diameter than the 16 tooth pulley with a belt around it the idler bearing is offset to one side.  This offset creates a straight linear track for pulling the bed carriage or the extruder carriage and eliminates sideways pull as the carriages approach the bearings.  Hence the brackets are marked with an X or a Y and a top and a bottom to make sure you get the offset in the right direction.

A 9.5mm x 5mm x 3mm spacer goes on either side of the bearing set between the brackets.  A printable version is included here.

Two 5x25 mm 4mm socket head bolts and nuts are needed for assembly of the two bracket sets.  The assembled brackets mount to the rails with M4x8 bolts.

The belt clips on the bed carriage and the extruder carriage need to be moved over towards the new belt location.  A drill guide to mark the holes is included.  The small pegs go in the original holes and the through holes mark the new location to align the belt clip.  

Note that the holes will come right to the edge of the extruder carriage and break through so you need to drill them very carefully.  I mark the position with a 1/8" drill bit using the drill guide and first use a smaller bit to drill through the extruder carriage to help eliminate any wobble when drilling through with the final 1/8" size.  

DXFs of a modified carriage for a Single and a Dual extruder are included for those that want to have one cut from 1/8" thick flat aluminum plate.

Adjust the height of the pulleys such that the belt clip barely clears under the carriage.

If you have an RB2 or ReliaBuild 3D board in your machine change the number of steps in the firmware for the X and Y directions to 100.41372675
If you are using an original Rigidbot board the Y value will be half of this.

There is a belt tightening key to help push the bearings in and tighten the belts.

Use thermally calibrated filament for best fit results.  I use this clip method.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1037301

<p>This is a simple display piece to hold a bottle of J. Herbin 1670 collection ink and a fountain pen. The pictures show it with a bottle of Emerald of Chivor and a TWSBI ECO. It should be able to fit most large pens with ease.</p>


Pen and Ink Display

This is a simple display piece to hold a bottle of J. Herbin 1670 collection ink and a fountain pen. The pictures show it with a bottle of Emerald of Chivor and a TWSBI ECO. It should be able to fit most large pens with ease.


<p>This is a placeholder for a 1602 LCD display with controller to be used in your design.<br>
I took measurements from the display at <a href="https://www.banggood.com/3Pcs-IIC-I2C-1602-Blue-Backlight-LCD-Display-Module-For-Arduino-p-983482.html?p=TH241428726122015109" rel="external">https://www.banggood.com/3Pcs-IIC-I2C-1602-Blue-Backlight-LCD-Display-Module-For-Arduino-p-983482.html?p=TH241428726122015109</a> (affiliate link). Note that this display includes in I2C controller. If you need a placeholder for just the display disregard the smaller PCB below.</p>


1602 LCD display with controller (placeholder)

This is a placeholder for a 1602 LCD display with controller to be used in your design.
I took measurements from the display at https://www.banggood.com/3Pcs-IIC-I2C-1602-Blue-Backlight-LCD-Display-Module-For-Arduino-p-983482.html?p=TH241428726122015109 (affiliate link). Note that this display includes in I2C controller. If you need a placeholder for just the display disregard the smaller PCB below.


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